Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:01 AM - Re: Weld-On 10 (Randy DeBauw)
2. 08:01 AM - Re: Weld-On 10 (Randy DeBauw)
3. 08:12 AM - Re: Finishing outside of plexis (Randy DeBauw)
4. 08:13 AM - Re: DAR (Randy DeBauw)
5. 09:55 AM - Re: Weld-On 10 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
6. 11:44 AM - Heads up on Hardware for QB Fuse missing (Tim Olson)
7. 11:52 AM - Missing Something? (Sean Stephens)
8. 12:44 PM - Re: Missing Something? (Jesse Saint)
9. 01:03 PM - Re: Missing Something? (Sean Stephens)
10. 01:28 PM - Re: Missing Something? (Jesse Saint)
11. 02:17 PM - Re: Missing Something? (Randy DeBauw)
12. 02:38 PM - Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs (James Hein)
13. 03:18 PM - Re: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs (Jeff Carpenter)
14. 04:09 PM - Re: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs (Gary Specketer)
15. 04:10 PM - Re: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs (John Hasbrouck)
16. 04:21 PM - Re: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs (McGANN, Ron)
17. 06:23 PM - Cowling (Mark Ritter)
18. 06:44 PM - Re: Cowling (Jesse Saint)
19. 08:54 PM - panel musing #1 (Robert G. Wright)
20. 09:26 PM - Re: panel musing #1 (Tim Olson)
21. 09:48 PM - Re: panel musing #1 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
22. 09:57 PM - Re: Weld-On 10 (DejaVu)
23. 10:12 PM - Re: Weld-On 10 (DejaVu)
Message 1
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Sorry, it is too early in the morning I am worn out from putting my
wheel pants on. Mine came in 1/2 pint jars as well. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
I found the tips under "glue". They were partially yours Randy. The
Weld-On 10 were referred to as "tubes". Mine came in half-pint jars.
I wonder if they had thicken it up some ...
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Was that my tips Anh? Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:04 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
=09
=09
Someone had posted some tips on using Weld-On 10 to attach the
windows and winshield. Can you pls repost because it didn't come up on
the search for some reason.
Thanks,
Anh
#141
Message 2
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Mine came in tubes as well. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
I found the tips under "glue". They were partially yours Randy. The
Weld-On 10 were referred to as "tubes". Mine came in half-pint jars.
I wonder if they had thicken it up some ...
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Was that my tips Anh? Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:04 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
=09
=09
Someone had posted some tips on using Weld-On 10 to attach the
windows and winshield. Can you pls repost because it didn't come up on
the search for some reason.
Thanks,
Anh
#141
Message 3
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| Subject: | Finishing outside of plexis |
If I remember it just says to fill the gaps with filler. I am assuming
you mean the rear windows. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing outside of plexis
Where do they tell you how to finish the outside perimeters of the
plexis?
Anh
#141
Message 4
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Great. It is getting close Jesse. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: DAR
DAR coming on Wednesday!
N256H #40241
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 5
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Mine also came in jars. You have to be fast. Once you put it on, you
must move quickly.
Somewhere after you glass in the front window there is a section that
says, mix epoxy with filler and fill the gaps between the top and the
windows.
I filled with an epoxy mix, then a body filler and it really came out
nice. The orbital sander I got from Sears has been a life saver. The
nicest thing about it is that the sand paper velcros on and off easily.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Mine came in tubes as well. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
I found the tips under "glue". They were partially yours Randy. The
Weld-On 10 were referred to as "tubes". Mine came in half-pint jars.
I wonder if they had thicken it up some ...
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Was that my tips Anh? Randy
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:04 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Someone had posted some tips on using Weld-On 10 to attach the
windows and winshield. Can you pls repost because it didn't come up on
the search for some reason.
Thanks,
Anh
#141
Message 6
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| Subject: | Heads up on Hardware for QB Fuse missing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have more to add to the list of hardware "gotchas" when doing
the QB Fuselage (some applies to all fuselage kits).
Hope this helps other builders.
Qty Item
----------------------------
1 AN4-20 Not listed in RV10 QB Hardware bags
Used on Pg. 40-7 Flap motor. Need 1.
4 AN3-12A Bag 1423 should contain these bolts,
per the top line of the bags inventory,
but they are not listed on the quanties of
items in the bags. No -12A's were received.
4 are needed on Pg. 40-5. AN3-12's were received
in the same bag but used on other areas.
4 AN515-6R8 None were included. Short 4 on Pg. 38-10
rudder cable holders. These were also short
back on the fuel/brake line holders....not
called out in hardware list. Needed a minimum
of 12 for the QB Fuse to the point I am at now.
Also would be missing the associated AN365 nuts,
and the washers on the fuel line brackets.
2 5702-95-30 Bag 1419. Received 4, bag should have 6
2 5702-75-60 Bag 1419. Received 10, bag should have 12
Previous items:
Fuel System:
Be sure that before you get to the fuel line section you have
purchased your fuel flow transducer (Ususally included with your
EIS), your ES Airflow fuel pump, and ES Airflow fuel filter.
You will need these items when doing fuel lines.
Front Floor panels:
If you didn't get the floor panels, you probably didn't get the hardware
needed either. They will send that with them. I was still short 8
CS4-4's in that hardware pack. Also, there were no K1000-3 nutplates to
put under the front legs of the gear brackets (the ones that bolt
through the floorpans). Hardware bag 1455 includes 2 K1000-3's, but
you need 4 to do the floorpans. You probably should get a couple extra
K1000-3's because if you were short already by 4, who knows how many
more will come up.
I got tipped off from another lister and found these missing too:
For brackets holding fuel/brake lines under front seats:
AN515-6R8 (qty 8)
AN960-6 (qty 8)
AN365-632 (qty 8)
**** Note, you will need 4 more of these screws and nuts later when
doing the rudder cable blocks as well (see above in email)
I found you will be real short on the K1000-8 nutplates. They do
include 40 in the hardware bags, but I found at LEAST this many required:
P. 28-7 (6)
P. 32-5 (2)
P. 33-7 (8)
P. 33-9 (5)
P. 34-7 (4)
P. 35-3 (8)
P. 41-5 (6)
P. 33-10 (24)
That totals 63.
AN257-P3 Hinge:
I have a 3' piece, but you need to have about 3' for the 2 rear seats,
and about 2' for the baggage door.
MS21053-L08
None are in hardware list, but 4 are required on Pg 35-3.
AN3-6A
4 are required per side....attaching the control bracket under front
seats. pg 28-14. None are included in the inventory list.
F-6114B and F-6114C: 2 each are required on P. 33-10, THESE ARE IN
YOUR EMPENNAGE KIT.
LP4-3's: They send a quantity of I think 275, but I am now running
out. I can see that I used 196 on the rear seat area, + 39 in the
baggage area for misc. panels, + 14 in the rear passenger floors. Then
you get to P. 35-3 to put the bottom on the bracket that holds up the
rear seat and it requires 50 right there, pushing you over the top.
You will need to buy a Baggage door lock ES A-510-2K with Mag Switch or
you won't have a way to latch your baggage door.
On the front section, right above and behind the NACA vents, there's a
"wire cover" that gets screwed down. There are 3 spots for nutplates
pre-drilled in the longeron F1040-L & -R. They hold down the wire
cover F-1042G-L&R on page 35-7. My longerons are pre-drilled. I
couldn't find the spot in the plans where these get drilled for
nutplates, or if it's done at the factory, but, I also couldn't find out
where the nutplates are installed, so I have no idea what type are
supposed to go there. (UPDATE: These are K1000-08's....so get plenty
of those)
Hopefully this list will help you people with QB Fuselage's not get
stuck at various points along the process. I am very frustrated that
every time I went into a section, I ran into a barrier of a missing part
or something that had a dependency. Then I'd start another section and
go until I ran into another missing part.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 7
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| Subject: | Missing Something? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Was just looking ahead in my wing plans. I see a section for aileron
actuation, but I see nothing regarding flap actuation?
Am I missing something, or are the plans for flap installation in the
fuse plans?
-Sean #40303 flaps
Message 8
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| Subject: | Missing Something? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Flaps are actuated directly from the fuse. There is nothing in the wings
except the brackets.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Missing Something?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Was just looking ahead in my wing plans. I see a section for aileron
actuation, but I see nothing regarding flap actuation?
Am I missing something, or are the plans for flap installation in the
fuse plans?
-Sean #40303 flaps
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Missing Something? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks Jesse...
Good luck tomorrow. Fill us in on any gotchas that come up.
-Sean
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>Flaps are actuated directly from the fuse. There is nothing in the wings
>except the brackets.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 2:51 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Missing Something?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>Was just looking ahead in my wing plans. I see a section for aileron
>actuation, but I see nothing regarding flap actuation?
>
>Am I missing something, or are the plans for flap installation in the
>fuse plans?
>
>-Sean #40303 flaps
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Missing Something? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Will do. Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Missing Something?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks Jesse...
Good luck tomorrow. Fill us in on any gotchas that come up.
-Sean
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>Flaps are actuated directly from the fuse. There is nothing in the wings
>except the brackets.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 2:51 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Missing Something?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>Was just looking ahead in my wing plans. I see a section for aileron
>actuation, but I see nothing regarding flap actuation?
>
>Am I missing something, or are the plans for flap installation in the
>fuse plans?
>
>-Sean #40303 flaps
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Missing Something? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Fuse plans. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Missing Something?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Was just looking ahead in my wing plans. I see a section for aileron
actuation, but I see nothing regarding flap actuation?
Am I missing something, or are the plans for flap installation in the
fuse plans?
-Sean #40303 flaps
Message 12
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d="scan'208"; a="1198462466:sNHT37371512"
| Subject: | Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Okay,
I work alone and was wondering if anyone knows the best way to rivet
the horizontal stabilizer nose ribs in place? I've already used the
squeezer to rivet the ones on the end, but the ones in the center seem
to be difficult to do.
Any ideas gang?
-Jim 40384
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Flush set and a bucking bar Jim... this is the best time to enlist
some help if there's any around. I did them myself and now have a
few "birth marks" to remind me that if I can't stand comfortably with
the gun in my right hand and the bar in my left, I probably shouldn't
go it alone.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Tail Cone
On Jun 21, 2005, at 2:38 PM, James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> Okay,
> I work alone and was wondering if anyone knows the best way to
> rivet the horizontal stabilizer nose ribs in place? I've already
> used the squeezer to rivet the ones on the end, but the ones in the
> center seem to be difficult to do.
>
> Any ideas gang?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Get help. It is quite a stretch to reach both sides of the front ribs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Okay,
I work alone and was wondering if anyone knows the best way to rivet
the horizontal stabilizer nose ribs in place? I've already used the
squeezer to rivet the ones on the end, but the ones in the center seem
to be difficult to do.
Any ideas gang?
-Jim 40384
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Jim,
These are ones best done with a partner. Having said that, I struggled
through mine myself, learning the hard way. The leading edge of my HS
suffered some for it. I couldn't hold the gun and the bar at the right
angles to get a consistant result. Invented many unusual words during this
process. Thankfully the family was not around......john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Enjoying the smell of tank sealant!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Jim,
There are only a few rivets that you really need a partner for on the
Empennage. These include the nose ribs. Get a partner. Have them shoot
and you buck because it is easy for the bucking bar to touch the opposite
side of the nose. If they are inexperienced, back off the pressure - its
surprising how little is required to set a 426 3-3.5 rivet.
Ron #187
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting H.S. Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Okay,
I work alone and was wondering if anyone knows the best way to rivet
the horizontal stabilizer nose ribs in place? I've already used the
squeezer to rivet the ones on the end, but the ones in the center seem
to be difficult to do.
Any ideas gang?
-Jim 40384
Message 17
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DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 18
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We used the piano hinges on the bottom and screws and nutplates on the top.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Subject: RV10-List: Cowling
Any builders looking at alternatives to using piano hinge to install cowling
- - camlocks, ss screws, etc.? Would like to hear what folks are doing or
considering doing.
Mark Ritter
#40043
Message 19
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While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard
thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome,
especially for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as
I'm already stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment,
the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put
the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving
is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure
until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on
the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
doesn't want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
functionality and real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the
IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built
into the panel (I think) that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three
screen desire. I'll wait for that until I buy my Adam 500, etc.
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands),
I'll be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming,
talking with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost
11:00 p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: panel musing #1 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'll toss my .02cents in inline...
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some
> hard thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary
> welcome, especially for logic checking.
>
>
>
> #1 Im thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much
> as Im already stretching the budget with this being a long-term
> investment, the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. Ill go ahead and
> (splurge) put the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good
> hard-evidenced improving is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
>
I think the GRT is probably the next best thing to the Chelton.
You'll sacrifice some things, of course, but that doesn't mean
the GRT won't make you happy. Besides that, they actively
are trying to improve their product. I would talk to them and
see if you actually would need to have the Sorcerer *if* they
get done with their improvements so that it can fly the
approaches. I have nothing to back this up, but in my mind,
if they make it work, it should be just like the Chelton is.
If you want to get the sorcerer, it's probably more likely
based on using a different Nav/Com to drive the sorcerer
directly.
>
>
> #2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel
> pressure until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the
> lag time on the EFIS?)
>
>
I would suggest adding a 2nd small battery. We have APC UPS's that
take a small 12Ah 12V battery that's maybe 5"x3"x4" or something
small like that. You could feed that battery for charging by
switching it into the system during flight and during shutdown,
but you could isolate it during startup. That way you could
bring your EIS online completely during startup. I plan to
do something similar myself.
>
> #3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
> doesnt want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
> functionality and real estate, I think Id rather focus my learning on
> the IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. Theres enough other
> redundancy built into the panel (I think) that it wasnt hard for me to
> ditch the three screen desire. Ill wait for that until I buy my Adam
> 500, etc
>
You're absolutely right there...space is tight. For 3 screens, you're
going to almost HAVE to go side-by side with it. You should be able
to fit it if you want it, but if you're getting all the other
systems, you're right, the 3rd screen is a luxury anyway. There are
good reasons for having one depending on what you plan to do with
it, but it's absolutely not a necessity.
>
>
> #4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two
> hands), Ill be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand,
> flying, trimming, talking with the left.
>
>
>
> So what other big things are jumping out at you? Im writing this at
> almost 11:00 p.m., so the brains shot.
>
>
Hard to say more without a good equipment list. Suggest going to
http://www.epanelbuilder.com and throwing one together. Then do
a screenshot and save it as a .jpg in a paint program, crop it,
and post it here and you'll get plenty of comments.
Tim
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
>
>
Message 21
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Another option for the "installment plan" is to forego the Sorcerer for now and
get a simpler TruTrak 2-axis autopilot, or even get just a single-axis setup
in the wing for now. Add the pitch servo and upgrade the autopilot later. TruTrak
is really good about giving credit for upgrades . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: panel musing #1
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'll toss my .02cents in inline...
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some
> hard thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary
> welcome, especially for logic checking.
>
>
> #1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much
> as I'm already stretching the budget with this being a long-term
> investment, the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and
> (splurge) put the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good
> hard-evidenced improving is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
>
I think the GRT is probably the next best thing to the Chelton.
You'll sacrifice some things, of course, but that doesn't mean
the GRT won't make you happy. Besides that, they actively
are trying to improve their product. I would talk to them and
see if you actually would need to have the Sorcerer *if* they
get done with their improvements so that it can fly the
approaches. I have nothing to back this up, but in my mind,
if they make it work, it should be just like the Chelton is.
If you want to get the sorcerer, it's probably more likely
based on using a different Nav/Com to drive the sorcerer
directly.
>
>
> #2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel
> pressure until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the
> lag time on the EFIS?)
>
>
I would suggest adding a 2nd small battery. We have APC UPS's that
take a small 12Ah 12V battery that's maybe 5"x3"x4" or something
small like that. You could feed that battery for charging by
switching it into the system during flight and during shutdown,
but you could isolate it during startup. That way you could
bring your EIS online completely during startup. I plan to
do something similar myself.
>
> #3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
> doesn't want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
> functionality and real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on
> the IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. There's enough other
> redundancy built into the panel (I think) that it wasn't hard for me to
> ditch the three screen desire. I'll wait for that until I buy my Adam
> 500, etc...
>
You're absolutely right there...space is tight. For 3 screens, you're
going to almost HAVE to go side-by side with it. You should be able
to fit it if you want it, but if you're getting all the other
systems, you're right, the 3rd screen is a luxury anyway. There are
good reasons for having one depending on what you plan to do with
it, but it's absolutely not a necessity.
>
>
> #4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two
> hands), I'll be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand,
> flying, trimming, talking with the left.
>
>
> So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at
> almost 11:00 p.m., so the brain's shot.
>
>
Hard to say more without a good equipment list. Suggest going to
http://www.epanelbuilder.com and throwing one together. Then do
a screenshot and save it as a .jpg in a paint program, crop it,
and post it here and you'll get plenty of comments.
Tim
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
>
Message 22
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|
I found the section later on page 45-19. It is vague at best. Earlier in this
chapter they have you mask off all but 3/4" from the edge, inside and outside
of the plexi. When you fill the gap on the outside between the cabin top and
the plexi do you also fill in the 3/4" band around the plexi?
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 12:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Mine also came in jars. You have to be fast. Once you put it on, you must move
quickly.
Somewhere after you glass in the front window there is a section that says, mix
epoxy with filler and fill the gaps between the top and the windows.
I filled with an epoxy mix, then a body filler and it really came out nice.
The orbital sander I got from Sears has been a life saver. The nicest thing about
it is that the sand paper velcros on and off easily.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 8:23 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Mine came in tubes as well. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 3:56 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
I found the tips under "glue". They were partially yours Randy. The Weld-On
10 were referred to as "tubes". Mine came in half-pint jars. I wonder if they
had thicken it up some ...
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Was that my tips Anh? Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:04 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Someone had posted some tips on using Weld-On 10 to attach the windows and
winshield. Can you pls repost because it didn't come up on the search for some
reason.
Thanks,
Anh
#141
Message 23
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Thanks Randy. I put the rear windows on tonight. I'm happy with them but boy,
that stuff makes ProSeal seem easy to work with.
You mentioned a white sealant for the inside seam of the windows when we talked
last on the phone. Can you tell me again what this sealant is? I don't see
running my finger along there with Weld-on 10 as the book suggested.
Thanks,
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Sorry, it is too early in the morning I am worn out from putting my wheel pants
on. Mine came in 1/2 pint jars as well. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 3:56 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
I found the tips under "glue". They were partially yours Randy. The Weld-On
10 were referred to as "tubes". Mine came in half-pint jars. I wonder if they
had thicken it up some ...
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Was that my tips Anh? Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:04 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Someone had posted some tips on using Weld-On 10 to attach the windows and
winshield. Can you pls repost because it didn't come up on the search for some
reason.
Thanks,
Anh
#141
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