Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:33 AM - Re: panel musing #1 (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
2. 07:33 AM - Re: Weld-On 10 (Randy DeBauw)
3. 07:47 AM - Re: panel musing #1 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
4. 07:50 AM - Re: panel musing #1 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
5. 09:45 AM - Airworthy! (Jesse Saint)
6. 09:48 AM - Re: Airworthy! (Randy DeBauw)
7. 09:53 AM - Re: Airworthy! (Sean Stephens)
8. 10:00 AM - Re: Airworthy! (John W. Cox)
9. 10:08 AM - Re: Airworthy! (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
10. 10:08 AM - Re: Airworthy! (John Jessen)
11. 10:23 AM - Re: Airworthy! (James Ochs)
12. 10:57 AM - Re: Airworthy! (Randy DeBauw)
13. 11:02 AM - Re: Airworthy! (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
14. 11:03 AM - Re: panel musing #1 (Russell Daves)
15. 11:15 AM - Re: Airworthy! (John Jessen)
16. 11:29 AM - Trimming Canopy - How much? (Tim Olson)
17. 11:35 AM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
18. 11:48 AM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Randy DeBauw)
19. 12:04 PM - Electric panels (John Hasbrouck)
20. 12:10 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (John Jessen)
21. 12:25 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Tim Olson)
22. 12:34 PM - Re: Electric panels (Tim Olson)
23. 12:39 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Tim Olson)
24. 12:51 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy - How much?) (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
25. 01:07 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Randy DeBauw)
26. 01:22 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Randy DeBauw)
27. 01:22 PM - Re: Airworthy! (John W. Cox)
28. 01:28 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy - How much?) (Dan Checkoway)
29. 01:33 PM - Headliner (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
30. 01:37 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy (Tim Olson)
31. 01:44 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy (Tim Olson)
32. 01:51 PM - Re: Electric panels (Rob Kermanj)
33. 01:52 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy - How much?) (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
34. 02:04 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy - How much?) (Dan Checkoway)
35. 02:23 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy - How much?) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
36. 02:32 PM - Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy - How much?) (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
37. 02:35 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Gary Specketer)
38. 02:58 PM - RV-10 #40241 flew today (Jesse Saint)
39. 03:02 PM - Re: Electric panels (Tim Olson)
40. 03:17 PM - Re: RV-10 #40241 flew today (Randy DeBauw)
41. 03:40 PM - Re: RV-10 #40241 flew today (Sean Stephens)
42. 03:47 PM - Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? (Randy DeBauw)
43. 03:47 PM - Re: RV-10 #40241 flew today (John Jessen)
44. 04:08 PM - Re: Airworthy! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
45. 05:11 PM - Some flight details (Jesse Saint)
46. 05:46 PM - Re: Electric panels (Marcus Cooper)
47. 05:54 PM - Re: panel musing #1 (Marcus Cooper)
48. 05:57 PM - Re: RV-10 #40241 flew today (Marcus Cooper)
49. 07:27 PM - Re: Airworthy! (Chris)
50. 07:55 PM - Re: Airworthy! (John W. Cox)
51. 08:39 PM - Re: panel musing #1 (Robert G. Wright)
52. 09:08 PM - Re: Airworthy! (Tim Olson)
53. 09:09 PM - panel depth (Robert G. Wright)
54. 09:13 PM - Re: panel musing #1 (Tim Olson)
55. 09:28 PM - Re: panel depth (Tim Olson)
56. 09:41 PM - Re: Airworthy! (John W. Cox)
Message 1
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I am using the GRT EFIS in my super cub and RV-10. I have an Essential buss
on a smaller battery that runs the EIS AHARS & #1 EFIS this gives me my
engine pages on start up. So on the walk around the fist thing I do is
check switches and cockpit controls and turn on the e-buss master. By the
time I get back into the cockpit for start, it is up and ready. To answer
your question about time for lite off it is about 45 seconds (seams to be
forever if you sit there and wait. No don't put any other engine
incitements in you panel just give your self some redundancy in the
electrical system and use it.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: panel musing #1
While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard
thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome,
especially for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as
I'm already stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment,
the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put
the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving
is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure
until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on
the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
doesn't want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
functionality and real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the
IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built
into the panel (I think) that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three
screen desire. I'll wait for that until I buy my Adam 500, etc.
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands),
I'll be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming,
talking with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost
11:00 p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 2
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I am using Seam Sealer available at any auto parts store that carries
some paint products. It is in a caulking gun tube or self dispensing
tube. You can get it in white grey or black. Retape the window on the
inside and also the windscreen. Fill the seam around the window and wait
a few minutes until the sealer starts to set. Then pull the tape off of
the window. That will leave a nice edge on the window side of the seam.
Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Thanks Randy. I put the rear windows on tonight. I'm happy with them
but boy, that stuff makes ProSeal seem easy to work with.
You mentioned a white sealant for the inside seam of the windows when we
talked last on the phone. Can you tell me again what this sealant is?
I don't see running my finger along there with Weld-on 10 as the book
suggested.
Thanks,
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 10:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Sorry, it is too early in the morning I am worn out from putting
my wheel pants on. Mine came in 1/2 pint jars as well. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 3:56 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
=09
=09
I found the tips under "glue". They were partially yours Randy.
The Weld-On 10 were referred to as "tubes". Mine came in half-pint
jars. I wonder if they had thicken it up some ...
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
Was that my tips Anh? Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 10:04 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On 10
=09
=09
Someone had posted some tips on using Weld-On 10 to
attach the windows and winshield. Can you pls repost because it didn't
come up on the search for some reason.
Thanks,
Anh
#141
Message 3
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Noel:
I like that clock in the cub! Where's that from?
TDT
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: panel musing #1
I am using the GRT EFIS in my super cub and RV-10. I have an Essential buss on
a smaller battery that runs the EIS AHARS & #1 EFIS this gives me my engine pages
on start up. So on the walk around the fist thing I do is check switches
and cockpit controls and turn on the e-buss master. By the time I get back into
the cockpit for start, it is up and ready. To answer your question about
time for lite off it is about 45 seconds (seams to be forever if you sit there
and wait. No don't put any other engine incitements in you panel just give your
self some redundancy in the electrical system and use it.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: panel musing #1
While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard thought
tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome, especially
for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as I'm already
stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment, the Chelton
just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put the sorcerer
in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving is done soon on
the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure until
the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just doesn't
want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the functionality and
real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the IFR legal map system
in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built into the panel (I think)
that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three screen desire. I'll wait for
that until I buy my Adam 500, etc...
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands), I'll
be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming, talking
with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost 11:00
p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 4
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Noel:
Two more questions:
In your -10, You've got some big holes on either end. Map compartments?
Also, what are those two grey vertical things adjacent to the big holes? Swing
out cup holders or something?
TDT
Do NOT archive
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: panel musing #1
I am using the GRT EFIS in my super cub and RV-10. I have an Essential buss on
a smaller battery that runs the EIS AHARS & #1 EFIS this gives me my engine pages
on start up. So on the walk around the fist thing I do is check switches
and cockpit controls and turn on the e-buss master. By the time I get back into
the cockpit for start, it is up and ready. To answer your question about
time for lite off it is about 45 seconds (seams to be forever if you sit there
and wait. No don't put any other engine incitements in you panel just give your
self some redundancy in the electrical system and use it.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: panel musing #1
While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard thought
tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome, especially
for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as I'm already
stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment, the Chelton
just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put the sorcerer
in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving is done soon on
the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure until
the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just doesn't
want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the functionality and
real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the IFR legal map system
in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built into the panel (I think)
that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three screen desire. I'll wait for
that until I buy my Adam 500, etc...
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands), I'll
be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming, talking
with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost 11:00
p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 5
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We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
weather holds.
N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 6
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Good news Jesse. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthy!
We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
weather holds.
N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Excellent! Congrats!
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
> weather holds.
>
> N256H #40241 Slow Build IO-540 Hartzell 2-blade
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
Message 8
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Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and the
lucky Seventh to fly.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthy!
We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
weather holds.
N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 9
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How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and the
lucky Seventh to fly.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthy!
We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
weather holds.
N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 10
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d="scan'208,217"; a="53192160:sNHT4165168900"
Excellent ... ! John
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthy!
We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
weather holds.
N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Actually, according to Van's first flights, Doug Peterson got #009 up
yesterday... That makes 8 customer builts flying if Jesse gets in the
air today ;) Congrats to both Doug and Jesse!!!
James
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W. Cox
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 10:00 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and
> the lucky Seventh to fly.
>
> John - KUAO
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 9:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
> weather holds.
>
> N256H #40241 Slow Build IO-540 Hartzell 2-blade
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Doug that sneaky guy. I didn't even hear about it. Way to go Doug.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthy!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Actually, according to Van's first flights, Doug Peterson got #009 up
yesterday... That makes 8 customer builts flying if Jesse gets in the
air today ;) Congrats to both Doug and Jesse!!!
James
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
>
> --
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W.
> Cox
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 10:00 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and
> the lucky Seventh to fly.
>
> John - KUAO
>
> --
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse
> Saint
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 9:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
> weather holds.
>
> N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide
to the Galaxy'
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Yeah, Doug, where are the pictures?
Finally got our finish kit after months of order backlog. Now back to work .
. .
TDT
40025
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Doug that sneaky guy. I didn't even hear about it. Way to go Doug.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthy!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Actually, according to Van's first flights, Doug Peterson got #009 up
yesterday... That makes 8 customer builts flying if Jesse gets in the
air today ;) Congrats to both Doug and Jesse!!!
James
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
>
> --
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W.
> Cox
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 10:00 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and
> the lucky Seventh to fly.
>
> John - KUAO
>
> --
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse
> Saint
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 9:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
> weather holds.
>
> N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide
to the Galaxy'
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: panel musing #1 |
Noel:
Did you modify the ribs for placement of your GRT units?
Best regards,
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: Noel & Yoshie Simmons
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: panel musing #1
I am using the GRT EFIS in my super cub and RV-10. I have an Essential buss
on a smaller battery that runs the EIS AHARS & #1 EFIS this gives me my engine
pages on start up. So on the walk around the fist thing I do is check switches
and cockpit controls and turn on the e-buss master. By the time I get back
into the cockpit for start, it is up and ready. To answer your question about
time for lite off it is about 45 seconds (seams to be forever if you sit there
and wait. No don't put any other engine incitements in you panel just give
your self some redundancy in the electrical system and use it.
Noel
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 9:52 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: panel musing #1
While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard thought
tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome, especially
for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as I'm
already stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment, the Chelton
just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put the sorcerer
in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving is done soon on
the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure until
the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just doesn't
want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the functionality
and real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the IFR legal map system
in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built into the panel (I
think) that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three screen desire. I'll wait
for that until I buy my Adam 500, etc.
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands), I'll
be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming, talking
with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost 11:00
p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 15
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|
d="scan'208"; a="53219219:sNHT32125378"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Congratulations, Doug!
John (do not archive)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthy!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Actually, according to Van's first flights, Doug Peterson got #009 up
yesterday... That makes 8 customer builts flying if Jesse gets in the air
today ;) Congrats to both Doug and Jesse!!!
James
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
>
> --
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W.
> Cox
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 10:00 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and
> the lucky Seventh to fly.
>
> John - KUAO
>
> --
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse
> Saint
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 9:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
> weather holds.
>
> N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to
the Galaxy'
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fitting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Tim:
Maybe you can put that extra Andair valve on your car, go-kart, or lawn tractor
somewhere . . . : )
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fitting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim, no lip on the outside of the fuse. It will be flush. There will be
some of the radius left on the bottom of the door opening. You will end
up with a gap about 1/8" thick between the mid cabin rail cap and the
underside of the canopy frame. You will fill that with thickened epoxy
before screwing it down. I had my canopy on and off 20 times before the
fit was good. Grind a little check it. Grind some more and check it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should be
no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush with
the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fitting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from
Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one
(DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new
Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 19
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
FWIW. I've followed the postings on this board regarding panel choices and
I have to mention a few reservations I have regarding going all electric.
In my 20 years of flying most of the problems I've had in the air were
electrical in nature. I've fried voltage regulators, had alternators die
and smoke in the cabin all of which caused me to shut down the whole system.
In that time I've had only one vacuum pump go TU and that happened on
startup. So my comments are based on that history. I understand that the
avionics are reliable but what of the other componenets in the system? What
do you do for a suspected electrical fire in flight? Can you be sure that
if you shut down a primary bus that the problem is solved or will the whole
system have to be shut down? How long does it take to restart an EFIS while
in the air? I've heard that if you have to restart the Avidyne system in
the Cirrus in flight you must fly straight and level for 5 minutes. That's
hard to do in bumpy IMC with an electric AI that's also spooling up at the
same time. Suppose you could use the Dynon or the Mid-continent lifesaver
AI with there own internal batteries but they are expensive, I think, soley
for backup instruments.
IMHO I think I'll use some vacuum powered instruments as backup so as to
have a completely seperate power source. Vavuum pumps are cheap,
lightweight and simple. They would save me the trouble of dual electrical
systems and multiple busses. Yeah, I admit that the GRT's or the Chelton's
will find a place in my panel but so will a vacuum AI. Probably use a wet
pump with an air/oil seperator. Had one in my 182 and it went to TBO and
was still going strong when I sold the plane. Murphy's law being what it
is, for me this is the prudent choice.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Using proseal as an aftershave.
Message 20
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|
d="scan'208"; a="53280815:sNHT31944552"
| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Randy, is there a seal between the door and the frame? Rubber? Inflatable?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim, no lip on the outside of the fuse. It will be flush. There will be
some of the radius left on the bottom of the door opening. You will end up
with a gap about 1/8" thick between the mid cabin rail cap and the underside
of the canopy frame. You will fill that with thickened epoxy before screwing
it down. I had my canopy on and off 20 times before the fit was good. Grind
a little check it. Grind some more and check it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should be no
"lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush with the
skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never got
it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a little
more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and fitting tips
would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered around
on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim, photos
of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of the initial
stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my fuel lines. Today
I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get
a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR
VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new Andair valve to whoever wants
it at a little break.
I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
What would be REAL cool is if you could put them in certified
planes. When our Sundowner valve started leaking at the stem,
we priced them.....originally it was replaced as a service-bulletin
and cost something like $25. The replacement valve 4-5 years
ago, IF you could find one at all, was over $2200. That makes
the Andair valve look REAL cheap!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Tim:
>
> Maybe you can put that extra Andair valve on your car, go-kart, or lawn tractor
somewhere . . . : )
>
> TDT
>
> do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:29 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>
> When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> drag.
>
> The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> fitting tips would be fantastic.
>
> Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> resolved.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>
> Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>
> Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I won't bother too much with "I had a vacuum pump fail" stories, but
I have...no big deal in VMC. I think if you go wet pump, maybe
you're doing pretty well adding a vac system. I personally don't
feel the need for one, but I can see how it might be attractive.
Going all-electric just means that you need to build your electrical
system to be more robust, and fail-safe, and redundant. As with
anything, you can take it to any level of extreme you feel
comfortable with.
If you think about what runs on vacuum though, it's not much stuff.
The DG, the Attitude indicator. If you buy the TruTrak ADI, you can
get it with built-in battery backup. (Same with Dynon) so that
instrument should be able to be completely isolated and still
function. You're also required to have a compass. So, in reality,
I don't think that given today's choices, going all electric
is much of a safety hardship to overcome. More so from the
Electronic ignition arena, if you drop the mags....but, I'm
using one regular mag for now, and later will try to switch
my lightspeed for a P-mag pair if they're available for 6-cyl
by then. At that point, the ignition is more failsafe and
independent too...for now, the mag does that for me.
I've heard even worse stories about some EFIS units....like you
have to LAND to reset them. (Don't know how valid they are between
brands). The Chelton guy said straight and level for 1 minute
I think on theirs.
Lots to think about though, and your vacuum backup is just one of
them.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> FWIW. I've followed the postings on this board regarding panel choices
> and I have to mention a few reservations I have regarding going all
> electric. In my 20 years of flying most of the problems I've had in the
> air were electrical in nature. I've fried voltage regulators, had
> alternators die and smoke in the cabin all of which caused me to shut
> down the whole system. In that time I've had only one vacuum pump go TU
> and that happened on startup. So my comments are based on that history.
> I understand that the avionics are reliable but what of the other
> componenets in the system? What do you do for a suspected electrical
> fire in flight? Can you be sure that if you shut down a primary bus
> that the problem is solved or will the whole system have to be shut
> down? How long does it take to restart an EFIS while in the air? I've
> heard that if you have to restart the Avidyne system in the Cirrus in
> flight you must fly straight and level for 5 minutes. That's hard to do
> in bumpy IMC with an electric AI that's also spooling up at the same
> time. Suppose you could use the Dynon or the Mid-continent lifesaver AI
> with there own internal batteries but they are expensive, I think, soley
> for backup instruments.
>
> IMHO I think I'll use some vacuum powered instruments as backup so as to
> have a completely seperate power source. Vavuum pumps are cheap,
> lightweight and simple. They would save me the trouble of dual
> electrical systems and multiple busses. Yeah, I admit that the GRT's or
> the Chelton's will find a place in my panel but so will a vacuum AI.
> Probably use a wet pump with an air/oil seperator. Had one in my 182
> and it went to TBO and was still going strong when I sold the plane.
> Murphy's law being what it is, for me this is the prudent choice.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
> Using proseal as an aftershave.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Randy, that will help tonight. I didn't want to take too
much off. I'm a little confused about where there will be some
radius left at the bottom. Is that a concave radius, or convex?
I guess this is where I start to use my West Systems Epoxy. Which
filler did you use for filling the inside surfaces of the canopy
to keep it from being so rough? How long will THAT process take?
Anh suggested doing the sanding on the inside before it was mounted
on the fuse....sound good to you?
It's finally starting to LOOK like an airplane. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Tim, no lip on the outside of the fuse. It will be flush. There will be
> some of the radius left on the bottom of the door opening. You will end
> up with a gap about 1/8" thick between the mid cabin rail cap and the
> underside of the canopy frame. You will fill that with thickened epoxy
> before screwing it down. I had my canopy on and off 20 times before the
> fit was good. Grind a little check it. Grind some more and check it.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 11:29 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>
> When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should be
> no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush with
> the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> drag.
>
> The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> fitting tips would be fantastic.
>
> Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> resolved.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>
> Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from
> Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one
> (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new
> Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>
> Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
Tim,
Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his site,
but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do not know if
this solution will work on the 10.
Dan any help?
Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
Larry Rosen
#356
Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Hi all,
>
> First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>
> When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> drag.
>
> The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> fitting tips would be fantastic.
>
> Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> resolved.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>
> Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>
> Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Tim,
Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his site,
but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do not know if
this solution will work on the 10.
Dan any help?
Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
Larry Rosen
#356
Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <TIM@MYRV10.COM>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fit
ting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
&
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Yes, It is rubber. Glues on the door with silicone. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Randy, is there a seal between the door and the frame? Rubber?
Inflatable?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim, no lip on the outside of the fuse. It will be flush. There will be
some of the radius left on the bottom of the door opening. You will end
up with a gap about 1/8" thick between the mid cabin rail cap and the
underside of the canopy frame. You will fill that with thickened epoxy
before screwing it down. I had my canopy on and off 20 times before the
fit was good. Grind a little check it. Grind some more and check it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should be
no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush with
the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fitting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from
Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one
(DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new
Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Convexed radius you will see it in several of the prototype door photos.
If you can image a nice rolled edge from the door sill to the outside
edge of the fuse skin. I used the brown powder fairing filler stuff. IT
IS MUCH EASIER TO PAINT THE INSIDE OF THE CANOPY WITH IT UPSIDE-DOWN ON
THE BENCH. I did all of the sanding and filling where it was easy to get
at. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Randy, that will help tonight. I didn't want to take too much
off. I'm a little confused about where there will be some radius left
at the bottom. Is that a concave radius, or convex?
I guess this is where I start to use my West Systems Epoxy. Which
filler did you use for filling the inside surfaces of the canopy to keep
it from being so rough? How long will THAT process take?
Anh suggested doing the sanding on the inside before it was mounted on
the fuse....sound good to you?
It's finally starting to LOOK like an airplane. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Tim, no lip on the outside of the fuse. It will be flush. There will
> be some of the radius left on the bottom of the door opening. You will
> end up with a gap about 1/8" thick between the mid cabin rail cap and
> the underside of the canopy frame. You will fill that with thickened
> epoxy before screwing it down. I had my canopy on and off 20 times
> before the fit was good. Grind a little check it. Grind some more and
check it.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 11:29 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>
> When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way
> it's molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too
> much drag.
>
> The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night.
> Never got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll
> take a little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any
> trimming and fitting tips would be fantastic.
>
> Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> resolved.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>
> Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos
> of the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at
> my fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve
> from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>
> Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Right on schedule. Still committed to a quote of at least twelve flying 10's before
OSH. 34 days and counting. With s/n 241 and only six others between #001
and #240, I think a lot of great news is in the works in the next few weeks.
Vic, where are you? Doug and Scott have sure been quiet, which usually means
work progress. Still looking for a flying three blade MT since Jim did not accept
the gauntlet of hard flight data against the Hartzell. Most of the builds
have been other than the QB kits. Now they should be appearing. There are
23 registered N numbers available for DAR inspections (less of course the first
flying seven) = 15. A number have their panels complete and engines ready
for FWF.
What a great way to open the Summer of 2005.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and the lucky Seventh
to fly.
John - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Airworthy!
We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this weather holds.
N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F:815-377-3694
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What exactly
are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because I
didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
Canopy - How much?)
Tim,
Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his
site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do not
know if this solution will work on the 10.
Dan any help?
Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
Larry Rosen
#356
Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Hi all,
>
> First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>
> When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> drag.
>
> The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> fit ting tips would be fantastic.
>
> Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> resolved.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>
> Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>
&
Message 29
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|
Nice audio talk by Jay Pratt on the RV10 assemble at http://www.vansairforce.com/rvtalk/14/rvtalk14.htm
He recommends installing the headliner Before you set top on the fuselage.
Larry Rosen
Nice audio talk by Jay Pratt on the RV10 assemble at http://www.vansairforce.com/rvtalk/14/rvtalk14.htm
He recommends installing the headliner Before you set top on the fuselage.
Larry Rosen
Message 30
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|
- How much?)
| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks for the tip on Dan's site. I'll have to go check it out.
I don't know how many total fairings I'll use. So far I'm at 4
total on the rudder cables, but I've heard that some people are
using them on the trim tab cables too, so that would be 2 more.
I'll buy those a little later. That magnet trick was way cool
and worked well. Tape would have been ok, but it would have had
much more of a chance to loosen and slide during the curing.
I tried E6000 on another thing that worked well too...my daughters
keep pulling the round doorknob type towel holder off the back of
the bathroom door. I used some super strong double-stick tape and
still had the same problem. I used E6000 and it's going strong
now.
Nope, it's absolutely not slow at work....I just haven't been
sleeping anymore. :) Actually, I feel like my progress is
very slow compared to what it could be if I had every nut, bolt,
and washer that I'm supposed to have. It wastes lots of time
when you don't have parts....if you don't order by Monday,
you can't have it for the weekend either. I didn't even hardly
touch the plane on the last weekend. Right now, late nights
are going to have to be dedicated to laying out my electrical
plan.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
LarryRosen@comcast.net wrote:
> Tim,
> Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on
> his site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-).
> I do not know if this solution will work on the 10.
>
> Dan any help?
>
> Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
> I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
>
> Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
> >
> > When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> > be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up
> flush
> > with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> > *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the
> way it's
> > molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too
> much
> > drag.
> >
> > The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night.
> Never
> > got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll
> take a
> > little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> > fit ting tips would be fantastic.
> >
> > Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming
> photos.
> > There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> > around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> > resolved.
> >
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
> >
> > Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> > photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some
> photos of
> > the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> > fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> > valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my
> original
> > Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell
> this
> > brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> > I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
> >
> &
Message 31
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|
- How much?)
| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just a way to make the passenger stick come off with something that
doesn't require tools. Ideally something simple, yet reliable when
you want it installed. Also, something that wouldn't jam the
controls, because the last thing you'd want is a pin falling
half-way out.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What exactly
> are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because I
> didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
> Canopy - How much?)
>
>
> Tim,
> Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his
> site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do not
> know if this solution will work on the 10.
>
> Dan any help?
>
> Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
> I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
>
> Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>>
>>When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
>>be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
>>with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
>>*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
>>molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
>>drag.
>>
>>The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
>>got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
>>little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
>>fit ting tips would be fantastic.
>>
>>Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
>>There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
>>around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
>>resolved.
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>>
>>Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
>>photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
>>the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
>>fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
>>valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
>>Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
>>brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
>>I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>>
>
> &
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
I have to agree with John. Although I have not had to shut down my
entire electrical system in flight, I have heard of enough people do
it. Nothing beats a vacuum back up. It is good to know that the
plane will keep flying with the mags and can be right side up when
everything else is down. My dry vacuum pump has 1300 hours on it and
is still running well. I have had to replace three vacuum couplers but
the pump itself is still running. The key is to have the pump breathe
well and replace your coupler ($15) at annual inspections.
On Jun 22, 2005, at 3:04 PM, John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> FWIW. I've followed the postings on this board regarding panel
> choices and I have to mention a few reservations I have regarding
> going all electric. In my 20 years of flying most of the problems I've
> had in the air were electrical in nature. I've fried voltage
> regulators, had alternators die and smoke in the cabin all of which
> caused me to shut down the whole system. In that time I've had only
> one vacuum pump go TU and that happened on startup. So my comments are
> based on that history. I understand that the avionics are reliable
> but what of the other componenets in the system? What do you do for a
> suspected electrical fire in flight? Can you be sure that if you shut
> down a primary bus that the problem is solved or will the whole system
> have to be shut down? How long does it take to restart an EFIS while
> in the air? I've heard that if you have to restart the Avidyne system
> in the Cirrus in flight you must fly straight and level for 5 minutes.
> That's hard to do in bumpy IMC with an electric AI that's also
> spooling up at the same time. Suppose you could use the Dynon or the
> Mid-continent lifesaver AI with there own internal batteries but they
> are expensive, I think, soley for backup instruments.
>
> IMHO I think I'll use some vacuum powered instruments as backup so as
> to have a completely seperate power source. Vavuum pumps are cheap,
> lightweight and simple. They would save me the trouble of dual
> electrical systems and multiple busses. Yeah, I admit that the GRT's
> or the Chelton's will find a place in my panel but so will a vacuum
> AI. Probably use a wet pump with an air/oil seperator. Had one in my
> 182 and it went to TBO and was still going strong when I sold the
> plane. Murphy's law being what it is, for me this is the prudent
> choice.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
> Using proseal as an aftershave.
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
Dan,
On Tim's web site <http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621/index.html> he wrote:
"Controls
These were a lot of fun. I had already pre-made my spacers and rods while wasting
time before, so the actual install of all of this didn't take too long. Just
follow the directions and it'll go fine. It does leave me wondering though....I
thought I'd heard that you could make these sticks removable, so you could
yank out the co-pilot stick when necessary. I'd love to do this on trips
with the
kids. The problem is, with the curved stick, I don't know that this will ever
be easy to do. I'll have to study it more later. None of the bolts are tightened
at this time because I'm still waiting for resolution on my andair valve.
"
I thought I saw something about a removable passenger stick that you installed
on your plane. I thought it was a modification, and I thought it could be applied
to the 10.
If I have you confused confused with someone else I apologize.
Larry Rosen
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
> The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What exactly
> are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because I
> didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
> Canopy - How much?)
>
>
> Tim,
> Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his
> site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do not
> know if this solution will work on the 10.
>
> Dan any help?
>
> Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
> I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
>
> Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
> >
> > When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> > be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> > with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> > *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> > molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> > drag.
> >
> > The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> > got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> > little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> > fit ting tips would be fantastic.
> >
> > Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> > There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> > around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> > resolved.
> >
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
> >
> > Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> > photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> > the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> > fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> > valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> > Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> > brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> > I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
> >
> &
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dan,
On Tim's web site http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621/index.html he wrote:
"Controls
These were a lot of fun. I had already pre-made my spacers and rods while wasting
time before, so the actual install of all of this didn't take too long. Just
follow the directions and it'll go fine. It does leave me wondering though....I
thought I'd heard that you could make these sticks removable, so you could
yank out the co-pilot stick when necessary. I'd love to do this on trips with
the
kids. The problem is, with the curved stick, I don't know that this will ever be
easy to do. I'll have to study it more later. None of the bolts are tightened
at this time because I'm still waiting for resolution on my andair valve. "
I thought I saw something about a removable passenger stick that you installed
on your plane. I thought it was a modification, and I thought it could be applied
to the 10.
If I have you confused confused with someone else I apologize.
Larry Rosen
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <DAN@RVPROJECT.COM>
The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What exactly
are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because I
didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
Canopy - How much?)
Tim,
Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his
site, but there are so many pages I
could not find it quickly :-). I do not
know if this solution will work on the 10.
Dan any help?
Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
Larry Rosen
#356
Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels*
like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fit ting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from C
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm not familiar with the setup on the -10. On the -7, it's a friction fit.
Push/twist the copilot stick into place, and it's not going anywhere. Want
it out? Twist/wiggle it, it's out. No big deal, no hardware required.
Remind me what the issue is?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
Canopy - How much?)
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just a way to make the passenger stick come off with something that
> doesn't require tools. Ideally something simple, yet reliable when
> you want it installed. Also, something that wouldn't jam the
> controls, because the last thing you'd want is a pin falling
> half-way out.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What
exactly
> > are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because
I
> > didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
> > Canopy - How much?)
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> > Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on
his
> > site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do
not
> > know if this solution will work on the 10.
> >
> > Dan any help?
> >
> > Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
> > I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
> >
> > Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
> >
> > Larry Rosen
> > #356
> > Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >>
> >>Hi all,
> >>
> >>First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
> >>
> >>When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> >>be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> >>with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> >>*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> >>molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> >>drag.
> >>
> >>The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> >>got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> >>little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> >>fit ting tips would be fantastic.
> >>
> >>Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> >>There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> >>around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> >>resolved.
> >>
> >>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
> >>
> >>Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> >>photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> >>the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> >>fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> >>valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> >>Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> >>brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> >>I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
> >>
> >
> > &
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I remember a conversation about this a few months back on (I think) the
main RV list. Basically they replaced the bolt with a quick disconnect
pin similar to what you get with the Avery squeezer. I like the idea
and will probably look into it more when the time comes. I was planning
on mirroring the stick controls on the right side but I'm thinking that
is probably overkill. I'll just panel mount the trim and PTT switches
on that side or leave the PTT on the stick and put in a quick disconnect
near the separation point.
On a side note, is it normal for Vans to take 2-3 days to ship an
order? Not complaining, just curious for future planning. I ordered
some angle first thing Monday morning and they just sent it this
afternoon which means it won't be here until next Monday. Messes up my
weekend planning a bit.
Michael
#40352
Waiting on new longerons (brain changed 7 7/16ths to 7 7/8ths while
measuring for notch, D'oh!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
Canopy - How much?)
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just a way to make the passenger stick come off with something that
doesn't require tools. Ideally something simple, yet reliable when you
want it installed. Also, something that wouldn't jam the controls,
because the last thing you'd want is a pin falling half-way out.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What
> exactly are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a
> "solution," because I didn't do anything but assemble the components
Van's provided.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was
> Trimming Canopy - How much?)
>
>
> Tim,
> Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on
> his site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-).
> I do not know if this solution will work on the 10.
>
> Dan any help?
>
> Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
> I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
>
> Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
>>
>>When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
>>be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
>>with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
>>*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way
>>it's molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too
>>much drag.
>>
>>The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
>>got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
>>little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
>>fit ting tips would be fantastic.
>>
>>Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
>>There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
>>around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
>>resolved.
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
>>
>>Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
>>photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos
>>of the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
>>fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from
>>Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one
>>(DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new
>>Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
>>I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
>>
>
> &
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming Canopy |
- How much?)
Dan,
I saw this on Tim site http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621/index.html
"Controls These were a lot of fun. I had already pre-made my spacers and rods
while wasting time before, so the actual install of all of this didn't take too
long. Just follow the directions and it'll go fine. It does leave me wondering
though....I thought I'd heard that you could make these sticks removable,
so you could yank out the co-pilot stick when necessary. I'd love to do this
on trips with the
kids. The problem is, with the curved stick, I don't know that this will ever
be easy to do. I'll have to study it more later. None of the bolts are tightened
at this time because I'm still waiting for resolution on my andair valve."
I thought I saw on your site a removable passenger control stick. I thought it
was a modification, and I thought it could be adapted to the 10. Sorry if I
was mistaken.
Larry Rosen
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
> The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What exactly
> are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because I
> didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings & Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
> Canopy - How much?)
>
>
> Tim,
> Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his
> site, but there are so many pages I could not find it quickly :-). I do not
> know if this solution will work on the 10.
>
> Dan any help?
>
> Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
> I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
>
> Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
> >
> > When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
> > be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
> > with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
> > *feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
> > molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
> > drag.
> >
> > The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
> > got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
> > little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
> > fit ting tips would be fantastic.
> >
> > Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
> > There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
> > around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
> > resolved.
> >
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
> >
> > Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
> > photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
> > the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
> > fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair
> > valve from Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original
> > Wicks one (DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this
> > brand new Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break.
> > I just need a valve for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
> >
> &
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dan,
I saw this on Tim site http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621/index.html
"Controls These were a lot of fun. I had already pre-made my spacers and rods while
wasting time before, so the actual install of all of this didn't take too
long. Just follow the directions and it'll go fine. It does leave me wondering
though....I thought I'd heard that you could make these sticks removable, so
you could yank out the co-pilot stick when necessary. I'd love to do this on
trips with the
kids. The problem is, with the curved stick, I don't know that this will ever be
easy to do. I'll have to study it more later. None of the bolts are tightened
at this time because I'm still waiting for resolution on my andair valve."
I thought I saw on your site a removable passenger control stick. I thought it
was a modification, and I thought it could be adapted to the 10. Sorry if I was
mistaken.
Larry Rosen
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <DAN@RVPROJECT.COM>
The pilot's stick is not removable. Just the passenger side. What exactly
are you looking for? I wouldn't call what I have a "solution," because I
didn't do anything but assemble the components Van's provided.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRosen@comcast.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairings Removable Control Stick (was Trimming
Canopy - How much?)
Tim,
Dan Checkoway has a removable control stick on his RV-7. I looked on his
site, but there are so many pages I
could not find it quickly :-). I do not
know if this solution will work on the 10.
Dan any help?
Tim: How many fairings (total) will you end up using?
I like the glue and hard drive magnet trick you show on your site.
Lots of progress over the past few days. Must be slow at work ;-)
Larry Rosen
#356
Quick build wings and fuselage soon!
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should
be no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush
with the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels*
like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fit ting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from C
Message 37
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| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Would it be a good thing to finish off the inside of the canopy before
you rivit it on to the rest of the fusalage?
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should be
no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush with
the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fitting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from
Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one
(DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new
Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break. I just need a valve
for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 38
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| Subject: | RV-10 #40241 flew today |
Stephen Saint of Ocala, FL flew N256H (RV-10 #40241) today for the first
time. The flight lasted about 25 minutes with no problems. Steve thought
the altimeter in our Dynon EFIS wasn't working because by the time he
reached the end of the runway it read 2,300. It was working, of course, but
he just used to flying the Cessna Skyhawk. Great performance out of a great
design.
Total build time was about 2,500 hours in less than 12 months, slow build.
Thanks Van's!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Electric panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
But, you're going to keep flying with those mags and be right-side-up
by your own controls.....unless someone wants to build a vacuum mounted
autopilot. I'd consider an AP to be near the top of my "want" list if I
were experiencing problems. Given that, even with Vacuum, I wouldn't
probably skimp on the redundancy and planning of the electrical system.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> I have to agree with John. Although I have not had to shut down my
> entire electrical system in flight, I have heard of enough people do
> it. Nothing beats a vacuum back up. It is good to know that the plane
> will keep flying with the mags and can be right side up when everything
> else is down. My dry vacuum pump has 1300 hours on it and is still
> running well. I have had to replace three vacuum couplers but the pump
> itself is still running. The key is to have the pump breathe well and
> replace your coupler ($15) at annual inspections.
>
>
> On Jun 22, 2005, at 3:04 PM, John Hasbrouck wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>>
>> FWIW. I've followed the postings on this board regarding panel
>> choices and I have to mention a few reservations I have regarding
>> going all electric. In my 20 years of flying most of the problems I've
>> had in the air were electrical in nature. I've fried voltage
>> regulators, had alternators die and smoke in the cabin all of which
>> caused me to shut down the whole system. In that time I've had only
>> one vacuum pump go TU and that happened on startup. So my comments are
>> based on that history. I understand that the avionics are reliable
>> but what of the other componenets in the system? What do you do for a
>> suspected electrical fire in flight? Can you be sure that if you shut
>> down a primary bus that the problem is solved or will the whole system
>> have to be shut down? How long does it take to restart an EFIS while
>> in the air? I've heard that if you have to restart the Avidyne system
>> in the Cirrus in flight you must fly straight and level for 5 minutes.
>> That's hard to do in bumpy IMC with an electric AI that's also
>> spooling up at the same time. Suppose you could use the Dynon or the
>> Mid-continent lifesaver AI with there own internal batteries but they
>> are expensive, I think, soley for backup instruments.
>>
>> IMHO I think I'll use some vacuum powered instruments as backup so as
>> to have a completely seperate power source. Vavuum pumps are cheap,
>> lightweight and simple. They would save me the trouble of dual
>> electrical systems and multiple busses. Yeah, I admit that the GRT's
>> or the Chelton's will find a place in my panel but so will a vacuum
>> AI. Probably use a wet pump with an air/oil seperator. Had one in my
>> 182 and it went to TBO and was still going strong when I sold the
>> plane. Murphy's law being what it is, for me this is the prudent choice.
>>
>> John Hasbrouck
>> #40264
>> Using proseal as an aftershave.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | RV-10 #40241 flew today |
Congratulation Jesse and Crew. Chalk up another successful first
flight. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 #40241 flew today
Stephen Saint of Ocala, FL flew N256H (RV-10 #40241) today for the first
time. The flight lasted about 25 minutes with no problems. Steve
thought the altimeter in our Dynon EFIS wasn't working because by the
time he reached the end of the runway it read 2,300. It was working, of
course, but he just used to flying the Cessna Skyhawk. Great
performance out of a great design.
Total build time was about 2,500 hours in less than 12 months, slow
build.
Thanks Van's!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 #40241 flew today |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Wow, that's a "quick build slow build". Well done...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> Stephen Saint of Ocala, FL flew N256H (RV-10 #40241) today for the
> first time. The flight lasted about 25 minutes with no problems. Steve
> thought the altimeter in our Dynon EFIS wasnt working because by the
> time he reached the end of the runway it read 2,300. It was working,
> of course, but he just used to flying the Cessna Skyhawk. Great
> performance out of a great design.
>
> Total build time was about 2,500 hours in less than 12 months, slow build.
>
> Thanks Vans!
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Trimming Canopy - How much? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
That's is what I did. Worked Great. I just painted covered the rivet
line with headliner. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Would it be a good thing to finish off the inside of the canopy before
you rivit it on to the rest of the fusalage?
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming Canopy - How much?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
First, a question for those done with their canopy install....
When you trim the canopy around the fuselage door area, there should be
no "lip" on the edge of the fiberglass, right?? It'll end up flush with
the skin? It's deceiving while trimming, because it kind of
*feels* like you'd put a lip around it just because that's the way it's
molded, but I can't imagine it being that way when trimmed...too much
drag.
The fitting is going pretty well. I trimmed it some last night. Never
got it quite trimmed enough to fit easily though. Tonight we'll take a
little more off the door sides and it should go on. Any trimming and
fitting tips would be fantastic.
Also, I just updated the page today...including some trimming photos.
There's lots of stuff on this page this time, as I've been scattered
around on various sections waiting for my fuel valve issue to be
resolved.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050621
Added stuff on rudder pedals, control installation, flap mechanisim,
photos of the seats I just got from Cleavelane/DJ's, and some photos of
the initial stages of fitting the top canopy. Even an attempt at my
fuel lines. Today I bit the bullet and ordered a new Andair valve from
Van's. At OSH I'll get a replacement fitting for my original Wicks one
(DON'T BUY A WICKS ANDAIR VALVE!!!), and then I'll sell this brand new
Andair valve to whoever wants it at a little break. I just need a valve
for fitting my fuel lines for the time being.
Oh, and congrats to Jesse and crew...good luck on the flight!
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 43
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|
d="scan'208,217"; a="53379111:sNHT3507165648"
| Subject: | RV-10 #40241 flew today |
Outstanding...! A good looking plane and a good looking crew to boot.
Can't ask for much more than that. Stay safe!
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 #40241 flew today
Stephen Saint of Ocala, FL flew N256H (RV-10 #40241) today for the first
time. The flight lasted about 25 minutes with no problems. Steve thought
the altimeter in our Dynon EFIS wasn't working because by the time he
reached the end of the runway it read 2,300. It was working, of course, but
he just used to flying the Cessna Skyhawk. Great performance out of a great
design.
Total build time was about 2,500 hours in less than 12 months, slow build.
Thanks Van's!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 44
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CONGRATULATIONS JESSE. MUST BE A GREAT FEELING.
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
40372
Message 45
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| Subject: | Some flight details |
OK, here are some of the flight characteristics that we have recorded so
far:
Climb - 2,000fpm @ 100mph (bye-bye 172)
High Speed flight (w/o wheel pants or gear leg fairings) - 185mph (full
power, fine prop, full rich)
Power-off Stall (no flaps) - 62mph
Power-off Stall (15 deg) - 54mph
Power-off Stall (30 deg) - 47mph (hello 172)
High-Speed Pass (we won't go into details, but it was great)
Please make note that I am not the pilot. My dad is. I don't even have my
license yet. In fact, I haven't even soloed yet. I do believe that I
probably have learned more about planes and aviation in the last year than
most pilots will ever know, which will hopefully make me a better pilot when
I get there. It is a shame, though, that I will finish my training in the
172 while I watch my dad flying circles around me in the RV-10, yet landing
just as short.
Another note. If you tach isn't showing full RPM, get an electronic tach
and check it on the prop. Our tach getting info from the mags is reading
400rpm low. No wonder it was idling so smoothly at 600rpm and seemed so
powerful at 2,050.
Oh yeah, and find a good way to seal around the cabin heat ports on the
firewall before you hang the engine and put on the cowling.
OK, one final note. HAVE FUN BUILDING, because if it is as fun flying a
plane you built as it is watching a plane you built fly, then it is going to
be worth it.
10th RV-10 flying. I can handle that number (of course, that is going by
Van's count including the two factory planes).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 46
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Good points in all the responses on this and I'm sure short of a zillion
backups there's no best answer. FWIW, one plan I'm leaning toward is a GRT
dual system as the primary and a Dynon EFIS as a backup. The reason for
this is the Dynon system is the same (roughly) price as a Tru-Trak ADI but
has a lot more info displayed, it's small so will fit to the left of the GRT
displays, and it has a backup battery good for two hours. Of course a
massive avionics killing power surge would still be my demise, but it seems
like a reasonable risk so far. I'll probably do the tru-trak autopilot as
well for three attitude platforms, two of which have completely independent
power sources and also show all the pitot-static info.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Electric panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
FWIW. I've followed the postings on this board regarding panel choices and
I have to mention a few reservations I have regarding going all electric.
In my 20 years of flying most of the problems I've had in the air were
electrical in nature. I've fried voltage regulators, had alternators die
and smoke in the cabin all of which caused me to shut down the whole system.
In that time I've had only one vacuum pump go TU and that happened on
startup. So my comments are based on that history. I understand that the
avionics are reliable but what of the other componenets in the system? What
do you do for a suspected electrical fire in flight? Can you be sure that
if you shut down a primary bus that the problem is solved or will the whole
system have to be shut down? How long does it take to restart an EFIS while
in the air? I've heard that if you have to restart the Avidyne system in
the Cirrus in flight you must fly straight and level for 5 minutes. That's
hard to do in bumpy IMC with an electric AI that's also spooling up at the
same time. Suppose you could use the Dynon or the Mid-continent lifesaver
AI with there own internal batteries but they are expensive, I think, soley
for backup instruments.
IMHO I think I'll use some vacuum powered instruments as backup so as to
have a completely seperate power source. Vavuum pumps are cheap,
lightweight and simple. They would save me the trouble of dual electrical
systems and multiple busses. Yeah, I admit that the GRT's or the Chelton's
will find a place in my panel but so will a vacuum AI. Probably use a wet
pump with an air/oil seperator. Had one in my 182 and it went to TBO and
was still going strong when I sold the plane. Murphy's law being what it
is, for me this is the prudent choice.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Using proseal as an aftershave.
Message 47
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|
Rob,
I may be off base here, but I think the dual GRT system also comes with
the EIS display. It's not on your layout (or I missed it), but if you use
that I would think it powers up immediately and you'll have your engine data
right away while the EFIS displays warm up.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: panel musing #1
While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard
thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome,
especially for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as
I'm already stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment,
the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put
the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving
is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure
until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on
the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
doesn't want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
functionality and real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the
IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built
into the panel (I think) that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three
screen desire. I'll wait for that until I buy my Adam 500, etc.
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands),
I'll be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming,
talking with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost
11:00 p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | RV-10 #40241 flew today |
Awesome and congrats. The big question is, how did you fit all those people
in the airplane on your first flight ;)!!!?
Marcus
Gotta get to work, too many OTHER RV-10s flying!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 #40241 flew today
Stephen Saint of Ocala, FL flew N256H (RV-10 #40241) today for the first
time. The flight lasted about 25 minutes with no problems. Steve thought
the altimeter in our Dynon EFIS wasn't working because by the time he
reached the end of the runway it read 2,300. It was working, of course, but
he just used to flying the Cessna Skyhawk. Great performance out of a great
design.
Total build time was about 2,500 hours in less than 12 months, slow build.
Thanks Van's!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 49
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Maybe Less Drag could offer a 3-blade to one of these early -10 fliers to do
a little demo comparison test for the masses to absorb. It might would get
me into a group buy a little quicker.
Chris L.
#40072
Wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Right on schedule. Still committed to a quote of at least twelve flying
> 10's before OSH. 34 days and counting. With s/n 241 and only six others
> between #001 and #240, I think a lot of great news is in the works in the
> next few weeks. Vic, where are you? Doug and Scott have sure been quiet,
> which usually means work progress. Still looking for a flying three blade
> MT since Jim did not accept the gauntlet of hard flight data against the
> Hartzell. Most of the builds have been other than the QB kits. Now they
> should be appearing. There are 23 registered N numbers available for DAR
> inspections (less of course the first flying seven) = 15. A number have
> their panels complete and engines ready for FWF.
>
> What a great way to open the Summer of 2005.
> ________________________________________
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 10:07 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> How is your estimate holding up for completed 10's going. Randy
>
> ________________________________________
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 10:00 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airworthy!
> Congrats on the short build time and great accomplishment. #241 and the
> lucky Seventh to fly.
>
> John - KUAO
>
> ________________________________________
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 9:44 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> We are airworthy! We should have the real news this afternoon of this
> weather holds.
>
> N256H #40241 Slow Build - IO-540 - Hartzell 2-blade
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
Message 50
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
With so many in this area, maybe Jim would feel compelled. Or the twins
in Colorado could accept the Challenge of a "Head to Head" like in their
picture. More hard data is always best and they might want to keep it
for a fair price.
What say you Jim?
Sure are a lot of aluminum Hartzells beating the wind into submission
these days.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthy!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Maybe Less Drag could offer a 3-blade to one of these early -10 fliers
to do
a little demo comparison test for the masses to absorb. It might would
get
me into a group buy a little quicker.
Chris L.
#40072
Wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 51
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|
Marcus, thanks. I'm still reading and learning.I think the main reason I
left it out was I thought that I just got the data feed, not the separate
display. But by not using the textual display I save that much more room
buy merely using one of the PFDs on the engine page. I read that I can wire
this on an essential bus during startup. So maybe I messed up in a good
way???
Rob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: panel musing #1
Rob,
I may be off base here, but I think the dual GRT system also comes with
the EIS display. It's not on your layout (or I missed it), but if you use
that I would think it powers up immediately and you'll have your engine data
right away while the EFIS displays warm up.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: panel musing #1
While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some hard
thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary welcome,
especially for logic checking.
#1 I'm thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much as
I'm already stretching the budget with this being a long-term investment,
the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. I'll go ahead and (splurge) put
the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good hard-evidenced improving
is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
#2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel pressure
until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the lag time on
the EFIS?)
#3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
doesn't want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
functionality and real estate, I think I'd rather focus my learning on the
IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. There's enough other redundancy built
into the panel (I think) that it wasn't hard for me to ditch the three
screen desire. I'll wait for that until I buy my Adam 500, etc.
#4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two hands),
I'll be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand, flying, trimming,
talking with the left.
So what other big things are jumping out at you? I'm writing this at almost
11:00 p.m., so the brain's shot.
Rob Wright
40392
Message 52
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I actually told him the same thing at Sun-N-Fun in person but it didn't
sound like it was going to happen. Today, in fact, I spoke on the
phone with Scott Schmidt about this same thing. I think there's a lot
of people still up in the air (no pun intended) about a prop, and not
willing to commit before they see the numbers. I gave up waiting and
ordered my Hartzell. They're about 10-12 weeks for delivery...my
due date is 7/15. If I'd have seen the numbers, it might have been
different.
I think it would be worth the time to send one to an already flying
-10 and see if they'd take $1000 to fly the prop for 5 hours.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
John W. Cox wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> With so many in this area, maybe Jim would feel compelled. Or the twins
> in Colorado could accept the Challenge of a "Head to Head" like in their
> picture. More hard data is always best and they might want to keep it
> for a fair price.
>
> What say you Jim?
>
> Sure are a lot of aluminum Hartzells beating the wind into submission
> these days.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 7:27 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthy!
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>
> Maybe Less Drag could offer a 3-blade to one of these early -10 fliers
> to do
> a little demo comparison test for the masses to absorb. It might would
> get
> me into a group buy a little quicker.
> Chris L.
> #40072
> Wings
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 53
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I forget, what's the depth for avionics in the middle where the infamous rib
is?
Rob
do not archive
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: panel musing #1 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm slightly lost. Are you saying your EIS would not be mounted in your
panel (the ugly little LCD screen EIS box?). If you have a dual GRT,
as was pointed out, you can display the info. for the EIS graphically
in full color on one of the screens. You might still want the small
ugly box on the dash though, for 2 reasons....1) you need to acknowledge
some alarms by pushing the buttons on the front. 2) even if ugly, it
still is a dedicated display that can show you alarming parameters, or
info you might be interested in.
What would be interesting is if Rob Hickman's unit would work with
the GRT dual-screen.....he says it'll work with the Chelton, and the
Chelton uses a GRT unit with special software....wonder if it's
similar enough that you could drive the GRT with his. If so, his
would give a nicer display for your panel and a dedicated EIS page
as well. I would have looked at it harder, but by the time it's
available my panel will be done.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> Marcus, thanks. Im still reading and learningI think the main reason
> I left it out was I thought that I just got the data feed, not the
> separate display. But by not using the textual display I save that much
> more room buy merely using one of the PFDs on the engine page. I read
> that I can wire this on an essential bus during startup. So maybe I
> messed up in a good way???
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Marcus Cooper
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2005 7:54 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: panel musing #1
>
>
>
> Rob,
>
> I may be off base here, but I think the dual GRT system also comes
> with the EIS display. Its not on your layout (or I missed it), but if
> you use that I would think it powers up immediately and youll have your
> engine data right away while the EFIS displays warm up.
>
>
>
> Marcus
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert G.
> Wright
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 21, 2005 11:52 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: panel musing #1
>
>
>
> While waiting for my rudder Trailing Edge to set, I gave my panel some
> hard thought tonight, and came up with this so far. All commentary
> welcome, especially for logic checking.
>
>
>
> #1 Im thinking about GRT right now. Currently a money thing. As much
> as Im already stretching the budget with this being a long-term
> investment, the Chelton just seems a bridge too far. Ill go ahead and
> (splurge) put the sorcerer in in this scenario unless some good
> hard-evidenced improving is done soon on the autopilot-software interface.
>
>
>
> #2 I think I need to add some transducer gauges for oil and fuel
> pressure until the EFIS comes fully online during startup (what is the
> lag time on the EFIS?)
>
>
>
> #3 Even using flush-mount bezel pictures, the three screen system just
> doesnt want to fit the panel much less the wallet. Even with all the
> functionality and real estate, I think Id rather focus my learning on
> the IFR legal map system in the GNS-480. Theres enough other
> redundancy built into the panel (I think) that it wasnt hard for me to
> ditch the three screen desire. Ill wait for that until I buy my Adam
> 500, etc
>
>
>
> #4 Switch and knob setup is such that other than for startup (two
> hands), Ill be dialing, pushing, and pulling with my right hand,
> flying, trimming, talking with the left.
>
>
>
> So what other big things are jumping out at you? Im writing this at
> almost 11:00 p.m., so the brains shot.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
Message 55
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think to the subpanel from the front panel is 9 or 9.5". The area
you're concerned with in the center though is much worse....you're
probably looking at 4.5" or so from the panel back to the bracket
that the bar going to the top of the windscreen mounts to. Also, those
ribs (all 3 of them) start at about 1.5" or 2" tall up by the front
panel, and they taper down larger as they go down to the subpanel.
Here's a great picture of the center rib:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050512/RV200505140012.html
Here's a photo of how mine looked after I modified the outer ribs.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050610/RV200506110038.html
You'll notice in my current panel layout (out for cutting right now)
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel/N104CD_Panel_32.jpg
that my radio stack is shifted to the right of that center rib.
An audio panel is between 6" and 7" deep....it'll never clear
that center rib. Besides that, while I'm very comfortable modifying
the outer 2 ribs, I'm not very comfortable at all with the idea of
cutting that structural center rib...so I left it alone. Easier
to move the radios.
If you go with the Aerocraft panel, it'll add 1.25" to 2" of additional
depth available to clear that rib, but still not enough to be able to
mount everything up high on your radio stack. Here's a shot of
Randy's Panel showing the space above his stack, where the rib clearance
is:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050404/IMGP0902.html
The MX-20 had to be mounted on top because as you can see from his
tray, it slopes down in the back, allowing more room for that rib.
But, you'd never fit an audio panel that high.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> I forget, whats the depth for avionics in the middle where the infamous
> rib is?
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
Message 56
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Second Ping for Effect.... What say you Jim?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airworthy!
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I actually told him the same thing at Sun-N-Fun in person but it didn't
sound like it was going to happen. Today, in fact, I spoke on the
phone with Scott Schmidt about this same thing. I think there's a lot
of people still up in the air (no pun intended) about a prop, and not
willing to commit before they see the numbers. I gave up waiting and
ordered my Hartzell. They're about 10-12 weeks for delivery...my
due date is 7/15. If I'd have seen the numbers, it might have been
different.
I think it would be worth the time to send one to an already flying
-10 and see if they'd take $1000 to fly the prop for 5 hours.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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