Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:45 AM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (James Hein)
2. 06:59 AM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (Dan Checkoway)
3. 07:42 AM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (John W. Cox)
4. 07:46 AM - 410DP (David McNeill)
5. 08:47 AM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (Jesse Saint)
6. 08:51 AM - Ack! Fiberglass! (Sean Stephens)
7. 09:06 AM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (John W. Cox)
8. 09:06 AM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (John Jessen)
9. 09:56 AM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Tim Olson)
10. 11:14 AM - Trailing edge of the rudder (John Jessen)
11. 11:43 AM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (DejaVu)
12. 11:49 AM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (Rick)
13. 11:53 AM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (DejaVu)
14. 11:56 AM - Air Vent Location (DejaVu)
15. 11:59 AM - Re: Air Vent Location (Randy DeBauw)
16. 12:09 PM - Re: Air Vent Location (DejaVu)
17. 12:09 PM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (Rick)
18. 12:17 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (DejaVu)
19. 12:26 PM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (Dan Checkoway)
20. 12:39 PM - Re: Air Vent Location (Randy DeBauw)
21. 12:51 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Tim Olson)
22. 12:53 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Tim Olson)
23. 12:54 PM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (c)
24. 01:10 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (DejaVu)
25. 01:14 PM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (Sean Stephens)
26. 01:29 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Gary Specketer)
27. 02:15 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Neal George)
28. 03:03 PM - Re: Van's Conduit In Wing (JOHN STARN)
29. 03:33 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (phil barnette)
30. 03:48 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Brian)
31. 05:17 PM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (Mani Ravee)
32. 06:25 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (DejaVu)
33. 06:31 PM - firewall protection (brian bollaert)
34. 07:21 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Larry Rosen)
35. 07:30 PM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (Larry Rosen)
36. 08:13 PM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (Deems Davis)
37. 08:37 PM - Re: Ack! Fiberglass! (Larry Rosen)
Message 1
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d="scan'208"; a="1043775086:sNHT17577916"
| Subject: | Re: Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
I'll share my knowledge here.
What I have done in the past (not with planes though) is use the PVC
electrical conduit you can get at Home Depot, etc. It is smooth on the
inside and outside.
Here's the good bit: In order to pass the conduit through an area
(say, ribs) but not to have any sliding or vibration do the following:
1. Put a rubber grommit in the rib that's large enough to pass
the conduit through
2. Take the conduit couplers and cut them on a bandsaw in 1/4"
widths. This will make "rings" that will slide over the conduit.
3. use PVC cement to "weld" the conduit rings to the conduit on
each side of the grommit.
In this case, the conduit will be vibration isolated by the grommit, and
the pvc "locking rings" will keep the conduit from moving.
-Jim 40384 Riveting H.S. skins to front spar now.
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Thanks Tim.
>
> Ya, that's what I was leaning towards for the fuse, which is why I
> wanted to avoid the 50 ft. roll if at all possible.
>
> -Sean
>
> do not archive
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Yes, a 25' roll will do the wings. I used the same stuff.
>> You'll have about 1+ feet of spare. I'd definitely
>> use larger stuff in the fuse.....did you see my orange stuff?
>> Jesse's idea about smooth conduit isn't a bad idea either.
>> I think this corrugated stuff will be nice too, but I think
>> either would work. The benefit to the corrugated is that it
>> wouldn't slide around back and forth, but tight smooth stuff
>> would probably be fine too.
>>
>> If you check my page for that orange stuff for the fuse though,
>> I really think that's about perfect for the fuse.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>
>> Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>>
>>> Getting ready to order some of Van's conduit for the wings. I was
>>> wondering if the 25 ft. roll is enough. It seems like it would be
>>> really close. Not sure If I want to use that particular conduit in
>>> the fuse, so was hoping to just get the 25 ft. roll instead of the
>>> 50 ft.
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303 flaps
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
And what do you do in 10-15 years when those grommets are dried out, and
that conduit is rattling in your wing?
My 2 cents -- don't use components without unlimited life in an area where
you can't get at them later. Just use the conduit Van's recommends; or if
you use PVC, secure it rigidly to the ribs. Anti-vibration of the conduit
is not of huge value here imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hein" <n8vim@arrl.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Conduit In Wing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> I'll share my knowledge here.
>
> What I have done in the past (not with planes though) is use the PVC
> electrical conduit you can get at Home Depot, etc. It is smooth on the
> inside and outside.
>
> Here's the good bit: In order to pass the conduit through an area
> (say, ribs) but not to have any sliding or vibration do the following:
> 1. Put a rubber grommit in the rib that's large enough to pass
> the conduit through
> 2. Take the conduit couplers and cut them on a bandsaw in 1/4"
> widths. This will make "rings" that will slide over the conduit.
> 3. use PVC cement to "weld" the conduit rings to the conduit on
> each side of the grommit.
>
> In this case, the conduit will be vibration isolated by the grommit, and
> the pvc "locking rings" will keep the conduit from moving.
>
> -Jim 40384 Riveting H.S. skins to front spar now.
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >
> > Thanks Tim.
> >
> > Ya, that's what I was leaning towards for the fuse, which is why I
> > wanted to avoid the 50 ft. roll if at all possible.
> >
> > -Sean
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >> Yes, a 25' roll will do the wings. I used the same stuff.
> >> You'll have about 1+ feet of spare. I'd definitely
> >> use larger stuff in the fuse.....did you see my orange stuff?
> >> Jesse's idea about smooth conduit isn't a bad idea either.
> >> I think this corrugated stuff will be nice too, but I think
> >> either would work. The benefit to the corrugated is that it
> >> wouldn't slide around back and forth, but tight smooth stuff
> >> would probably be fine too.
> >>
> >> If you check my page for that orange stuff for the fuse though,
> >> I really think that's about perfect for the fuse.
> >>
> >>
> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>
> >>
> >> Sean Stephens wrote:
> >>
> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >>>
> >>> Getting ready to order some of Van's conduit for the wings. I was
> >>> wondering if the 25 ft. roll is enough. It seems like it would be
> >>> really close. Not sure If I want to use that particular conduit in
> >>> the fuse, so was hoping to just get the 25 ft. roll instead of the
> >>> 50 ft.
> >>>
> >>> -Sean #40303 flaps
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Dan, your point should not be lost on many other component
installations, as well. "Access to future servicing". On the L list,
one poster is often marketing a product called "carbhinge" which is a
composite piano hinge to replace the standard issue metal hinge
(aluminum or S. steel) adhered to carbon/fiberglass composite substrate
(used in upper and lower cowl connections or gawd forbid control
surfaces).
They are slick cause you are using similar composite to composite
adhesion. Similar nobility. However, when the pin has elongated the
alignment holes (over years of RV grins) in each adjacent component, the
owner/build goes "Oups, guess I forget how I was going to ever service
or replace worn components down life's highway. The spar
inspection/replacement effort on T-6 and T-34s is why it is now sooo
darn costly to comply.
Serviceability and ease of replacement on anything is the sign of a
forward thinking engineer or valued field mechanic long before the cuts
and abrasions on your hands and arms.
John $00.02
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Conduit In Wing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
And what do you do in 10-15 years when those grommets are dried out, and
that conduit is rattling in your wing?
My 2 cents -- don't use components without unlimited life in an area
where
you can't get at them later. Just use the conduit Van's recommends; or
if
you use PVC, secure it rigidly to the ribs. Anti-vibration of the
conduit
is not of huge value here imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 4
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Saw it taxi in this morning. Doug says that he has about 4 hours on it. Was getting
165Kts in level flight. Carrying some extra weight in the baggage area for
W&B. Perhaps he will give a detailed report after the weekend.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
You can use RTV or just normal silicone to hold it in place. We made the
pipe fit tight in the wing and fastened it every couple of ribs with a
section of a coupler fitting. We used silicone to hold it in place and
around the ribs. I wish we had used bigger pipes, but we were able to do
every bit of wiring on the entire plane after it was built. We haven't run
any wires under the baggage or rear seat floors. We made the right side
panel of the baggage compartment to connect with nut plates so we can get at
all of our wires. If you can install all of the wires after the plane is
finished, that means that you can get at all of them to replace, repair or
add to them.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Conduit In Wing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
And what do you do in 10-15 years when those grommets are dried out, and
that conduit is rattling in your wing?
My 2 cents -- don't use components without unlimited life in an area where
you can't get at them later. Just use the conduit Van's recommends; or if
you use PVC, secure it rigidly to the ribs. Anti-vibration of the conduit
is not of huge value here imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hein" <n8vim@arrl.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Conduit In Wing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> I'll share my knowledge here.
>
> What I have done in the past (not with planes though) is use the PVC
> electrical conduit you can get at Home Depot, etc. It is smooth on the
> inside and outside.
>
> Here's the good bit: In order to pass the conduit through an area
> (say, ribs) but not to have any sliding or vibration do the following:
> 1. Put a rubber grommit in the rib that's large enough to pass
> the conduit through
> 2. Take the conduit couplers and cut them on a bandsaw in 1/4"
> widths. This will make "rings" that will slide over the conduit.
> 3. use PVC cement to "weld" the conduit rings to the conduit on
> each side of the grommit.
>
> In this case, the conduit will be vibration isolated by the grommit, and
> the pvc "locking rings" will keep the conduit from moving.
>
> -Jim 40384 Riveting H.S. skins to front spar now.
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >
> > Thanks Tim.
> >
> > Ya, that's what I was leaning towards for the fuse, which is why I
> > wanted to avoid the 50 ft. roll if at all possible.
> >
> > -Sean
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >> Yes, a 25' roll will do the wings. I used the same stuff.
> >> You'll have about 1+ feet of spare. I'd definitely
> >> use larger stuff in the fuse.....did you see my orange stuff?
> >> Jesse's idea about smooth conduit isn't a bad idea either.
> >> I think this corrugated stuff will be nice too, but I think
> >> either would work. The benefit to the corrugated is that it
> >> wouldn't slide around back and forth, but tight smooth stuff
> >> would probably be fine too.
> >>
> >> If you check my page for that orange stuff for the fuse though,
> >> I really think that's about perfect for the fuse.
> >>
> >>
> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>
> >>
> >> Sean Stephens wrote:
> >>
> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >>>
> >>> Getting ready to order some of Van's conduit for the wings. I was
> >>> wondering if the 25 ft. roll is enough. It seems like it would be
> >>> really close. Not sure If I want to use that particular conduit in
> >>> the fuse, so was hoping to just get the 25 ft. roll instead of the
> >>> 50 ft.
> >>>
> >>> -Sean #40303 flaps
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hey Tim,
In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
<http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
place. This looks 10 times worse.
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
No telltale respirator line... so I concluded he was Clowning Around for
Colleen & Danielle and had taken the red nose off.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hey Tim,
In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
<http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
place. This looks 10 times worse.
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Message 8
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d="scan'208"; a="51319361:sNHT28441950"
| Subject: | Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Looks more like he just stepped in some friendly dog reminder. :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hey Tim,
In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
<http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the place.
This looks 10 times worse.
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
sees in me. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
>
> <http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
>
> I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
> place. This looks 10 times worse.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> do not archive
>
Message 10
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d="scan'208"; a="54142141:sNHT19862884"
| Subject: | Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the trailing
edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets, even
if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force would
be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any final
thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
John Jessen
(VS & rudder almost history)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
John,
Carefully countersinking the wedge helped minimizing the small gaps. If the
countersink holes are slightly too large, the skin will get pushed inside
the hole, thus the small gaps. My aeilerons were much better. I measured
the dia of my C/S hole and compared it to the dia of the under side of the
dimple on the skin. The dimple fit inside the C/S hole much better.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Trailing edge of the rudder
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the trailing
> edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
> prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
>
> Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
> version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets,
even
> if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force
would
> be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
>
> I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any
final
> thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> John Jessen
> (VS & rudder almost history)
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
Yes, I have very minimal gaps, the proseal filled them and they are maybe 1/64"
if that. I rolled the edge with a Cleaveland edge tool prior to dimpling the
skins. This aliminated all but the minute gaps in the trailing edge. Proseal is
paintable so I figured it would save me at a minimum having to fill any gaps
if they existed. As you rivet the edge it will get tighter than the clecos ever
could hold it. As you do your final set with the mushroom set, make an effort
to apply just a "tad" more pressure toward edge of the material. This helps
to push the skin together a bit tighter. Like alot of other things it is a developed
technique. I might suggest using some scrap AVEX stock and some skin to
get a feel for it prior to doing it for real. I followed Vans direction in the
manual to the letter and it worked perfectly without practicing. I admint I
was feeling like an expert by the time I finished up the 18th running feet of
flap trailing edges. I also used the matched drilled angle iron technique which
helped keep them razor sharp and straight.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim,
It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis, the
doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
doors than the fuel tanks.
I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
> looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
>
> Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> sees in me. ;)
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >
> > Hey Tim,
> >
> > In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
> >
> > <http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
> >
> > I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
> > place. This looks 10 times worse.
> >
> > -Sean #40303
> >
> > do not archive
> >
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Air Vent Location |
Randy/Others,
I noticed you have the air vents installed right on the scoops on the side skins.
Seems like they would be slightly hidden under the panel. How do you like
locating them as such?
Anh
#141
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Air Vent Location |
The holes are in the skins and the vents have the receivers in them for
the vents. You can add some cover plates of the would surround them.
Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Location
Randy/Others,
I noticed you have the air vents installed right on the scoops on the
side skins. Seems like they would be slightly hidden under the panel.
How do you like locating them as such?
Anh
#141
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Air Vent Location |
Uhh... There are two pieces to each vent hole on the skin, right? The scoop, which
is mated with the hole. And the swivel head, which can be remoted located
and connected by a hose. Your swivel head seems to be mated right onto the
scoop without a hose.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Location
The holes are in the skins and the vents have the receivers in them for the vents.
You can add some cover plates of the would surround them. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 11:56 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Location
Randy/Others,
I noticed you have the air vents installed right on the scoops on the side skins.
Seems like they would be slightly hidden under the panel. How do you like
locating them as such?
Anh
#141
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
FWIW, you can easily slide wire through Van's conduit. The trick is to put a small
loop/bend on the end of the wire before pushing it through, other wise it
will hang up on the corrugations in the conduit.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
BTW, I when I had the cast on my foot removed I noticed the Doc used a
fiberglass cutting tool that would be awesome to trim the canopy top with.
It has a circular blade with teeth but the blade does not turn. It vibrates
back and forth, which is why it only cut something hard like the cast and
not your skin. He said the tool would cost an arm and a leg. I wonder if
something similar is available for non-hospital use.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Tim,
> It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis,
the
> doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
> Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
> fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
> doors than the fuel tanks.
>
> I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
> 50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> > I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> > model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
> > looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> > don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> > of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> > lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> > fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> > and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> > a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
> >
> > Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> > sees in me. ;)
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Stephens wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> > >
> > > Hey Tim,
> > >
> > > In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face.
:)
> > >
> > > <http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
> > >
> > > I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
> > > place. This looks 10 times worse.
> > >
> > > -Sean #40303
> > >
> > > do not archive
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> FWIW, you can easily slide wire through Van's conduit. The trick is to put
a small loop/bend on the end of the wire before pushing it through, other
wise it will hang up on the corrugations in the conduit.
Another trick is just to put some masking tape over the end of the wire.
It'll slide right through.
I originally had a "pull string" in my conduit, but after feeding wires
through and seeing how easy it was with masking tape over the ends, I pulled
the string out. No need imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Air Vent Location |
Correct. You would have to break or cut of the parts that holds the
vent. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Location
Uhh... There are two pieces to each vent hole on the skin, right? The
scoop, which is mated with the hole. And the swivel head, which can be
remoted located and connected by a hose. Your swivel head seems to be
mated right onto the scoop without a hose.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Location
The holes are in the skins and the vents have the receivers in
them for the vents. You can add some cover plates of the would surround
them. Randy
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 11:56 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Location
=09
=09
Randy/Others,
I noticed you have the air vents installed right on the scoops
on the side skins. Seems like they would be slightly hidden under the
panel. How do you like locating them as such?
Anh
#141
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hmmmm....I wonder if I went upstairs to ortho if they'd notice
one missing... ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> BTW, I when I had the cast on my foot removed I noticed the Doc used a
> fiberglass cutting tool that would be awesome to trim the canopy top with.
> It has a circular blade with teeth but the blade does not turn. It vibrates
> back and forth, which is why it only cut something hard like the cast and
> not your skin. He said the tool would cost an arm and a leg. I wonder if
> something similar is available for non-hospital use.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 2:53 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>
>>Tim,
>>It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis,
>
> the
>
>>doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
>>Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
>>fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
>>doors than the fuel tanks.
>>
>>I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
>>50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
>>
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
>>>I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
>>>model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
>>>looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
>>>don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
>>>of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
>>>lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
>>>fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
>>>and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
>>>a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
>>>
>>>Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
>>>sees in me. ;)
>>>
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>>
>>>
>>>Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>>>
>>>>Hey Tim,
>>>>
>>>>In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face.
>
> :)
>
>>>><http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
>>>>
>>>>I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
>>>>place. This looks 10 times worse.
>>>>
>>>>-Sean #40303
>>>>
>>>>do not archive
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Was your handheld belt sander a very small one? Mine is about a foot
long....would be awkward to use inside the canopy I think. I did
manage to use it to trim the doors and windows though, along with
a 3/4" or 1" sanding drum on a die grinder. Now I just have to
figure out what I'll use to make a nice smooth edge since the
major material removal is done.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Tim,
> It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis, the
> doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
> Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
> fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
> doors than the fuel tanks.
>
> I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
> 50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
>>I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
>>model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
>>looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
>>don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
>>of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
>>lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
>>fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
>>and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
>>a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
>>
>>Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
>>sees in me. ;)
>>
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>>
>>>Hey Tim,
>>>
>>>In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
>>>
>>><http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
>>>
>>>I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
>>>place. This looks 10 times worse.
>>>
>>>-Sean #40303
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Conduit In Wing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: c <toaster73@earthlink.net>
An electrician trick I saw once was to tie a little wad of cloth to string and
then suck the string down the conduit with a shop vac at the other end. Then pull
the wire through with the string.
-Chris L
#40072
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Conduit In Wing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> FWIW, you can easily slide wire through Van's conduit. The trick is to put
a small loop/bend on the end of the wire before pushing it through, other
wise it will hang up on the corrugations in the conduit.
Another trick is just to put some masking tape over the end of the wire.
It'll slide right through.
I originally had a "pull string" in my conduit, but after feeding wires
through and seeing how easy it was with masking tape over the ends, I pulled
the string out. No need imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Mine is a 3" X 18" belt sander. I used a disc/die grinder to trim
intitially. Then the belt sander to smooth the edges. On the inside I only
sanded the "gutter" area since the rest is covered by the headliner. Again,
belt sander on the straight portions and drums on the corners.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Was your handheld belt sander a very small one? Mine is about a foot
> long....would be awkward to use inside the canopy I think. I did
> manage to use it to trim the doors and windows though, along with
> a 3/4" or 1" sanding drum on a die grinder. Now I just have to
> figure out what I'll use to make a nice smooth edge since the
> major material removal is done.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> >
> > Tim,
> > It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis,
the
> > doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
> > Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on
the
> > fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
> > doors than the fuel tanks.
> >
> > I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim
using
> > 50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
> >
> > Anh
> > #141
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >>Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> >>I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> >>model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
> >>looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> >>don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> >>of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> >>lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> >>fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> >>and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> >>a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
> >>
> >>Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> >>sees in me. ;)
> >>
> >>
> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>Current project: Fuselage
> >>
> >>DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >>
> >>
> >>Sean Stephens wrote:
> >>
> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >>>
> >>>Hey Tim,
> >>>
> >>>In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
> >>>
> >>><http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
> >>>
> >>>I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
> >>>place. This looks 10 times worse.
> >>>
> >>>-Sean #40303
> >>>
> >>>do not archive
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I went the no-proseal route for my ailerons and they turned out much
better than my prosealed rudder and elevators. No wait for proseal
curing either! :)
.02
-Sean #40303
Rick wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
>John,
>
>Yes, I have very minimal gaps, the proseal filled them and they are maybe 1/64"
if that. I rolled the edge with a Cleaveland edge tool prior to dimpling the
skins. This aliminated all but the minute gaps in the trailing edge. Proseal
is paintable so I figured it would save me at a minimum having to fill any gaps
if they existed. As you rivet the edge it will get tighter than the clecos ever
could hold it. As you do your final set with the mushroom set, make an effort
to apply just a "tad" more pressure toward edge of the material. This helps
to push the skin together a bit tighter. Like alot of other things it is a developed
technique. I might suggest using some scrap AVEX stock and some skin
to get a feel for it prior to doing it for real. I followed Vans direction in
the manual to the letter and it worked perfectly without practicing. I admint
I was feeling like an expert by the time I finished up the 18th running feet
of flap trailing edges. I also used the matched drill!
> ed angle iron technique which helped keep them razor sharp and straight.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Don't worry about filling the inside of the canopy, just glue some
headliner materal right on the fiberglas and it will look wounderful.
Let me know if you want more info.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to fill that
crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth, and then sand it all down
again. Sounds like that's a couple week long job from what Randy told
me.
Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
sees in me. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face.
> :)
>
> <http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
>
> I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
> place. This looks 10 times worse.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> do not archive
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Neal George" <neal@appaero.com>
Fein's Multimaster is similar...
http://www.right-tool.com/multool.html
do not archive
>
BTW, I when I had the cast on my foot removed I noticed the Doc used a
fiberglass cutting tool that would be awesome to trim the canopy top
with.
It has a circular blade with teeth but the blade does not turn. It
vibrates
back and forth, which is why it only cut something hard like the cast
and
not your skin. He said the tool would cost an arm and a leg. I wonder
if
something similar is available for non-hospital use.
Anh
#141
<
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Conduit In Wing |
<10170257.1119642843225.JavaMail.root@wamui-rustique.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Have used this method many times. I've used this on up to 8" conduit, 120'
long. (went to Wal-Mart & bought a TeddyBear). Put the rag, cottonball or
teddybear with string attached into one end, have a way to plug that end
with a hole in the cover just big enough for the string to pass. Pull vacuum
on the "other" end, until the motor tells you that it's pulling hard. Pull
the cover away from the inlet end. Make sure YOU are not tangled in the
string. We used the yellow nylon form string. Have used this on the "ribbed"
flex conduit from Van's too, It works. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "c" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Conduit In Wing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: c <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>
> An electrician trick I saw once was to tie a little wad of cloth to string
> and then suck the string down the conduit with a shop vac at the other
> end. Then pull the wire through with the string.
>> FWIW, you can easily slide wire through Van's conduit. The trick is to
>> put
> a small loop/bend on the end of the wire before pushing it through, other
> wise it will hang up on the corrugations in the conduit.
Message 29
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=HCdBlq+uCeJ5AtCyJwBGtbcgxBsDsGErs8wj8CN6MxEbjSXr+0URiosxSRl2iKdUOjRgHqQmgX69qX9HJ34NuE6I41yZNV5Nwx2gHU0DmaHZ4T63WbId54pDhxdNBIBKSFG/NWhvtPLoQXGkDZ00O4HcIehQhs/hOvBu5hMf8UA=
;
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
it's a striker saw - i had one in my office, but just threw it out several weeks
ago. never thought about cutting canopy with it....
phil
empcone wannabe
DejaVu <wvu@ameritel.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
BTW, I when I had the cast on my foot removed I noticed the Doc used a
fiberglass cutting tool that would be awesome to trim the canopy top with.
It has a circular blade with teeth but the blade does not turn. It vibrates
back and forth, which is why it only cut something hard like the cast and
not your skin. He said the tool would cost an arm and a leg. I wonder if
something similar is available for non-hospital use.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu"
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
>
> Tim,
> It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis,
the
> doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
> Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
> fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
> doors than the fuel tanks.
>
> I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
> 50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> > I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> > model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
> > looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> > don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> > of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> > lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> > fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> > and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> > a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
> >
> > Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> > sees in me. ;)
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Stephens wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
> > >
> > > Hey Tim,
> > >
> > > In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face.
:)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
> > > place. This looks 10 times worse.
> > >
> > > -Sean #40303
> > >
> > > do not archive
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
Searching eBay I found that you could have fetched quite a few bucks for a "Stryker
saw"!
----- Original Message -----
From: phil barnette
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
it's a striker saw - i had one in my office, but just threw it out several weeks
ago. never thought about cutting canopy with it....
phil
empcone wannabe
DejaVu <wvu@ameritel.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
BTW, I when I had the cast on my foot removed I noticed the Doc used a
fiberglass cutting tool that would be awesome to trim the canopy top with.
It has a circular blade with teeth but the blade does not turn. It vibrates
back and forth, which is why it only cut something hard like the cast and
not your skin. He said the tool would cost an arm and a leg. I wonder if
something similar is available for non-hospital use.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu"
To:
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
>
> Tim,
> It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis,
the
> doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
> Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
> fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
> doors than the fuel tanks.
>
> I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
> 50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> > I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> > model. Actually, I wish I ha d a clue as to what I was
> > looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> > don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> > of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> > lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> > fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> > and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> > a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
> >
> > Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> > sees in me. ;)
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Stephens wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
> > >
> > > Hey Tim,
> > >
> > > In this picture you hav e that
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>>Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
> version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets,
even
> if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force
would
> be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.<<
I spoke to Van's himself at S&F about this. He, after listening patiently to
the symptoms my trailing edge, (which is exactly yours) said it was OK, and
to use an epoxy glue (sandable) on the EDGE after it is all riveted and
letting it harden. Have done it and my trailing edge is like a razor edge.
Just to clarify again, I used the angle iron and the proseal. He (Vans)
liked the proseal there for some reason.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trailing edge of the rudder
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
John,
Carefully countersinking the wedge helped minimizing the small gaps. If the
countersink holes are slightly too large, the skin will get pushed inside
the hole, thus the small gaps. My aeilerons were much better. I measured
the dia of my C/S hole and compared it to the dia of the under side of the
dimple on the skin. The dimple fit inside the C/S hole much better.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Trailing edge of the rudder
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the trailing
> edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
> prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
>
> Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
> version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets,
even
> if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force
would
> be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
>
> I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any
final
> thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> John Jessen
> (VS & rudder almost history)
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
Ahhhh.... Send me the next one you have. The nice thing about the striker saw
is that it doesn't "catch".
On an off subject, I just came back from New Orleans. We should plan an RV-10
trip there. What a place to visit. Good clean fun, good food (gator gumbo-yum),
lots of culture.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: phil barnette
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
it's a striker saw - i had one in my office, but just threw it out several weeks
ago. never thought about cutting canopy with it....
phil
empcone wannabe
DejaVu <wvu@ameritel.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
BTW, I when I had the cast on my foot removed I noticed the Doc used a
fiberglass cutting tool that would be awesome to trim the canopy top with.
It has a circular blade with teeth but the blade does not turn. It vibrates
back and forth, which is why it only cut something hard like the cast and
not your skin. He said the tool would cost an arm and a leg. I wonder if
something similar is available for non-hospital use.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu"
To:
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
>
> Tim,
> It's all good. It's like playing in mud as a kid. You have the plexis,
the
> doors (inner and outer shells), cowling, fairings to look forward to.
> Imagine I sanded the inside of the cabin top after it was installed on the
> fuse and have fiber dust fall on your face. It took me longer to do the
> doors than the fuel tanks.
>
> I found my handheld belt sander worked great after the initial trim using
> 50-80grit. I also used coarse 3/4" and 11/4" drums at the corners.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 12:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ack! Fiberglass!
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> > I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> > model. Actually, I wish I ha d a clue as to what I was
> > looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> > don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> > of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> > lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> > fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> > and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> > a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
> >
> > Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> > sees in me. ;)
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Stephens wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
> > >
> > > Hey Tim,
> > >
> > > In this picture you hav e that
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | firewall protection |
Hello Group :
>
> Caught this on the Matronics list , i am think of doing this seems worthwhile
(you never know ) !!20
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
> http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Now aren't you glad your not building a Lancair. :-D
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Oh you guys are havin' fun now! :) This is the photo
> I'm sending in for an audition to be a Macy's clothing
> model. Actually, I wish I had a clue as to what I was
> looking at. I can tell you this though, I really
> don't like cutting fiberglass. Last night I did the rest
> of the rough trimming on the canopy, and man is there a
> lot to remove. What's REALLY going to burn me is having to
> fill that crappy inside of the canopy to make it smooth,
> and then sand it all down again. Sounds like that's
> a couple week long job from what Randy told me.
>
> Geezz...looking at that picture, I wonder what my wife
> sees in me. ;)
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> Hey Tim,
>>
>> In this picture you have that "I hate working with fiberglass" face. :)
>>
>> <http://myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/RV200506220001.html>
>>
>> I remember doing the emp fairings with all that dust all over the
>> place. This looks 10 times worse.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I clecoed together the trailing edge and then used masking tape between
the holes to hold the edge together. I then back riveted on a long 2
foot back rivet plate. A 2x4 about 2 foot long was held parallel to the
edge about 6 inches up the control surface with even pressure. The edge
has some very small gaps, but it works for me. Better than the proseal
route. IMHO.
Larry Rosen
Working on Emp Attach
QB Wings and Fuse first week of July
John Jessen wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the trailing
>edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
>prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
>
>Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
>version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets, even
>if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force would
>be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
>
>I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any final
>thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
>John Jessen
> (VS & rudder almost history)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I just finished my rudder trailing edge. (with some trepidation based
upon all of the warnings about 'curves and hooks!). Many Thanks to Tim
Olsen and Mike Howe for their tips on the angle iron and back riveting
every other rivet. I used "Pro Seal" or what Van's currently shipps
called "Dyna Seal". The Trailing edge came out perfectly straight, no
bends or hooks, but I do have some 'gaps' / irregularities in the skins
between some of the rivets, that I attribute to Pro/Dyna Seal. Based
upon the feedback I'm reading, on this list. And unless I hear a really
good reason for keeping the Pro/Dyna seal. I think I'l forego it on the
ailerons & flaps.
Deems Davis #406 HS started
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> I clecoed together the trailing edge and then used masking tape
> between the holes to hold the edge together. I then back riveted on a
> long 2 foot back rivet plate. A 2x4 about 2 foot long was held
> parallel to the edge about 6 inches up the control surface with even
> pressure. The edge has some very small gaps, but it works for me.
> Better than the proseal route. IMHO.
>
> Larry Rosen
> Working on Emp Attach
> QB Wings and Fuse first week of July
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the
>> trailing
>> edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
>> prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
>>
>> Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
>> version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the
>> rivets, even
>> if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical
>> force would
>> be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
>> I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any
>> final
>> thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>>
>> John Jessen
>> (VS & rudder almost history)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ack! Fiberglass! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
New Orleans: Yes good fun, but IMHO not clean fun. :-D
I am in, that is in 2 years when my RV is flying.
Larry
Do Not Archive
DejaVu wrote:
> Ahhhh.... Send me the next one you have. The nice thing about the
> striker saw is that it doesn't "catch".
>
> On an off subject, I just came back from New Orleans. We should plan
> an RV-10 trip there. What a place to visit. Good clean fun, good
> food (gator gumbo-yum), lots of culture.
>
>
> Anh
> #141
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