Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:01 AM - For Those Looking at HID Lights... (Sean Stephens)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: For Those Looking at HID Lights... (Tim Olson)
3. 05:43 AM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (Rene Felker)
4. 09:32 AM - Re: Trailing edge of the rudder (John Jessen)
5. 12:47 PM - Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Tim Olson)
6. 01:31 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Jesse Saint)
7. 03:45 PM - Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Dick Gurley)
8. 04:15 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Neal George)
9. 04:18 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Deems Davis)
10. 04:56 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Chris)
11. 08:01 PM - QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Marcus Cooper)
12. 08:34 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (DejaVu)
13. 09:02 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Scott Lewis)
14. 09:18 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (William Curtis)
15. 09:19 PM - Gaunlet to Scott (John W. Cox)
16. 10:50 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Randy DeBauw)
17. 11:23 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Robin Wessel)
18. 11:49 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Tim Olson)
19. 11:52 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | For Those Looking at HID Lights... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Check out the news on the front page of CreativAir.
<http://www.creativair.com/cva/>
Looks like there might be yet another HID option soon.
-Sean #40303
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: For Those Looking at HID Lights... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
These being PAR36 lights at 35W, should be very similar to Duckworks
lights. I wonder how they intend to offer them for mounting options,
as there's no good place for a PAR36 in the tips....still have to
cut the hole in the leading edge or put it elsewhere. So, my guess
is that it's another option for bulb supply, but not necessarily
a "total solution" as you'd get with a duckworks kit....we'll have
to wait and see how he expects to use them.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Check out the news on the front page of CreativAir.
> <http://www.creativair.com/cva/>
>
> Looks like there might be yet another HID option soon.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
I used a combination of both methods, pro-seal and long bucking bar. Very
easy and I had great results. My skills are limited, so I need all the help
I can get.
No gaps to fill.....
Rene'
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Trailing edge of the rudder
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the trailing
edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets, even
if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force would
be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any final
thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
John Jessen
(VS & rudder almost history)
Message 4
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d="scan'208"; a="51670873:sNHT30356782"
| Subject: | Trailing edge of the rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Thanks to everyone who answered my query. I may be able to do the trailing
edge this weekend, if I get a move on. I believe that I'll try the no
proseal route, using a long bucking bar. I had a reason to drop by Vans
(picked up some odds and ends) and ended up talking to Ken Scott about this.
He said that the proseal is only there to help hold things in place during
the assembly, it's not at all structural, so if you can do the job without
it, then fine.
John Jessen
(any one notice that deburring takes freaking forever.............)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trailing edge of the rudder
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
I used a combination of both methods, pro-seal and long bucking bar. Very
easy and I had great results. My skills are limited, so I need all the help
I can get.
No gaps to fill.....
Rene'
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Trailing edge of the rudder
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
For those of you who have traveled the "no proseal" route to the trailing
edge of the rudder, I have a question. Actually, for those who have
prosealed the edge and maybe had some difficulty...
Does the edge have any small gaps at all? When I look at the clecoed
version, it appears that there would be small gaps between the rivets, even
if you rolled the edge sufficiently, that the rivets' mechanical force would
be enough to produce the gaps. Thus the proseal.
I'd like to finish the rudder this weekend, along with the VS, so any final
thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
John Jessen
(VS & rudder almost history)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
From anyone who's done the windshield...
Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
when done?
I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
to be the inevitible. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
You'll end up filling, evening and painting over the edge onto the
windshield. The better the fit the easier it will be, but it will all be
covered up eventually. The most important part is having them line up to
the same level so you don't have to build up or sand down too much.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
From anyone who's done the windshield...
Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
when done?
I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
to be the inevitible. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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| Subject: | Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
What method do people use to store the large skins while you are building?
Dick Gurley
40414
Just starting empennage.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
Dick-
I used a scrap of plywood salvaged from the crate.
A 2x2 and hinges on one end, screwed to the bottom of a door.
A piece of string and two screw-eyes near the top hold it in place.
Neal
Do not archive
What method do people use to store the large skins while you are
building?
Dick Gurley
40414
Just starting empennage.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I had the same question when I saw that not everything would fit under
the bed, and worried about the skins getting dented if I left them in
the shop somewhere down low. I ended up putting everything that would
fit safely under the bed/s and then building a high 12" shelf with a
forward "lip" on it. I rest the parts on the shelf leaning against the
wall. The lip keeps them from accidently slipping. ( I've got some high
(10') celiings in the 'shop' and the shelf is high enough to be out of
the way.)
Congratulations on your decision, hope you hae as much fun with the
process and I'm having.
Deems Davis #406 Starting HS
Dick Gurley wrote:
> What method do people use to store the large skins while you are building?
>
>
>
> Dick Gurley
>
> 40414
>
> Just starting empennage.
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
I built shelfs with the kit crating material above the garage doors when the doors
are in the up position.It was easy since I have exposed upstairs floor truss
to nail to.
Chris Lucas
#40072
Wings (ailerons)
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Gurley
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 6:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Storage of kit items while you are working on them
What method do people use to store the large skins while you are building?
Dick Gurley
40414
Just starting empennage.
Message 11
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| Subject: | QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Just a quick question on whether the gear mounts need to come out for any
reason on the QB kit prior to adding the remaining hardware. I saw in some
pictures that folks had taken them out, what is the benefit/requirement to
do so? Yes, I am lazy and am trying to avoid anything that I don't have to
absolutely do!
Marcus
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim,
I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the outside yet.
But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I think it may be
better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it is squeezed out. The
flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will hurt.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> From anyone who's done the windshield...
>
> Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
> to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
> to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
> fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
> when done?
>
> I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
> to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
> to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
> there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
> so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
> to be the inevitible. :)
> Tim
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
G'day,
I added supports to the large empennage box and hung it from the roof
with pulleys. It can be put up and down by one person, but two makes it
much easier. See pic attached.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
Dick Gurley wrote:
> What method do people use to store the large skins while you are building?
>
>
>
> Dick Gurley
>
> 40414
>
> Just starting empennage.
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
>What method do people use to store the large skins while
>you are building?
>
>Dick Gurley
I used the crate that the kit came in to build a high shelf in the garage to hold
the parts. Worked quite well as I was able to fit all but the spars on it
and out of the way.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings04.html
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings05.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 15
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| Subject: | Gaunlet to Scott |
Jim Ayers has posted repeatedly about (4X) forward commitments on the MT
prop option. His hand has been out for money but no product to
challenge Hartzell fore with. Vapor ware (for props), I know better with
MT. Gerd must have all of his dealers on a really short leash. The high
ground is getting even steeper by each day with the inaction. Orders
are being placed. Now, 95% of all the RV-10s on the radar screen are
going with Hartzell. This is a travesty. I fly an MT and it is a
quantum jump over the Whirlwind. I Can't believe no MT is available to
take on this opportunity. MORE THAN 400 opportunities lost (maybe 500
by September). I just have to believe it can outperform a metal two
blade on resonance alone.
When it came to the rubber meeting the road, there has been no traction
on a demonstration of the merits of an MT prop over Hartzell on ANY
RV-10 powered by either a carbureted (Doug) or fuel injected Lycoming
540 CID over the heavier Hartzell (regardless of airfoil design). Scott
the baton is in now in your court. PLEASE. Many of us are now waiting
with anticipation for your first flight and the day when you can take on
all comers with Hartzell metal just to blow the BS from the questions
and produce results on the lighter and sexier prop option. Don't tell
us its still November 2005 for the first flight. Jim is in hiding. We
know VAN is tied to Hartzell, Jim remains safely silent in his cave. Do
all of you guys really believe he doesn't read these posts.
Don't tell us you have another bike ride taking priority over this
important build issue. Lets kick the dog and see the bite or at least
hear a muffled bark. Renae would want nothing less.
John - KUAO
Message 16
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| Subject: | Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
1/8" gap is fine Tim. The edge of the windshield is covered with a thin layer of
glass and then paint. Having a little wider gap will let more filler material
flow in and keep the paint from cracking. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
From anyone who's done the windshield...
Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
when done?
I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
to be the inevitible. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts |
Yep- you have to take them out and perform a few operations.
Before re-installing you have to:
Install floor plates
Nut plates for the mounts
Drill four holes thru the center section- this procedure requires a 6" #21
bit and a angle drill with a collet chuck.
Insulation (optional)
I forgot to drill the holes and ended up removing it twice!
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't think they really have to come out except I had to take
mine out to get my front floor pans in. If your pans aren't in,
you need them out. So, I soundproofed under them, then put the
pans on, then the gear legs.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Just a quick question on whether the gear mounts need to come out for any
> reason on the QB kit prior to adding the remaining hardware. I saw in some
> pictures that folks had taken them out, what is the benefit/requirement to
> do so? Yes, I am lazy and am trying to avoid anything that I don't have to
> absolutely do!
>
> Marcus
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front
and side windows today. I see that it would be impossible
almost to make the "perfect", so I'm glad to see these
responses come the way they did.
A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted
black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice,
or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well
enough? When all is said and done, do you paint over that
area anyway on the outside of the plexi, or will it show
thru?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Tim,
> I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the outside yet.
> But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I think it may be
> better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it is squeezed out. The
> flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will hurt.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> From anyone who's done the windshield...
>>
>>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
>>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
>>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
>>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
>>when done?
>>
>>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
>>to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
>>to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
>>there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
>>so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
>>to be the inevitible. :)
>>Tim
>>--
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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