Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:54 AM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Gary Specketer)
2. 05:35 AM - Re: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Marcus Cooper)
3. 07:03 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Marcus Cooper)
4. 08:38 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Robin Wessel)
5. 10:49 AM - Gear-on Height (Tim Olson)
6. 10:58 AM - Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Tim Olson)
7. 11:32 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Gary Specketer)
8. 08:01 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Tim Olson)
9. 08:44 PM - Re: Gluing doors (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
10. 08:50 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (DejaVu)
11. 08:56 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (DejaVu)
12. 09:05 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Tim Olson)
13. 09:10 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Tim Olson)
14. 09:10 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (DejaVu)
15. 09:10 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
16. 09:44 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (DejaVu)
17. 09:48 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
If you only cover the outside of the Plex with paint, then when you sit
inside you can see the underside of the outside paint. It is preferable
to have both the inside and outside cover the same amount of plex. I do
not have any info on the adheasion of the glue to the painted plex. On
my previous planes I epoxied them in. Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front and side
windows today. I see that it would be impossible almost to make the
"perfect", so I'm glad to see these responses come the way they did.
A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted
black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice,
or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well enough? When
all is said and done, do you paint over that area anyway on the outside
of the plexi, or will it show thru?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Tim,
> I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the
> outside yet. But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I
> think it may be better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it
> is squeezed out. The flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will
> hurt. Anh #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> From anyone who's done the windshield...
>>
>>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
>>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
>>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
>>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area when done?
>>
>>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going to be
>>pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping to hear that
>>it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If there's an 1/8" gap
>>somewhere, is that a big deal? **note: so far, I haven't screwed
>>up...just planning for what seems to be the inevitible. :)
>>Tim
>>--
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts |
Thanks for all the replies, looks like the mounts are coming out today. It
sure is nice having folks out in front of this process to build the learning
curve.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Wessel
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts
Yep- you have to take them out and perform a few operations.
Before re-installing you have to:
Install floor plates
Nut plates for the mounts
Drill four holes thru the center section- this procedure requires a 6" #21
bit and a angle drill with a collet chuck.
Insulation (optional)
I forgot to drill the holes and ended up removing it twice!
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts |
Robin,
Again, thanks for the help. I do have one question though, for the life
of me I can't find the four #21 holes you mention through the center
section. Could you give me some more details on what to look for? Any
chance these are the #12 holes, two on each side, that have a spacer tube
that run between the center sections along the top of the gear mount? If
so, mine are already drilled and had bolts in them (although incredibly
tight fit, I destroyed the threads on one bolt getting it out).
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Wessel [mailto:robin.wessel@comcast.net]
Subject: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts
Yep- you have to take them out and perform a few operations.
Before re-installing you have to:
Install floor plates
Nut plates for the mounts
Drill four holes thru the center section- this procedure requires a 6" #21
bit and a angle drill with a collet chuck.
Insulation (optional)
I forgot to drill the holes and ended up removing it twice!
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts |
. . . I can't find the four #21 holes you mention through the center
section. Could you give me some more details on what to look for? Any
chance these are the #12 holes, . . . .
Your right- I meant to say #12 not #21.
I have QB fuse ser #175. Not sure if later production runs have them
pre-drilled.
robin
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Can someone with their -10 on gear (preferably without engine
mounted yet, but I'll take anything) measure from floor to belly under
rear seats, and, if possible, from floor to top of canopy. I'd
like to make sure that I'll be able to fit this out my garage door
if I put the gear on in the next couple weeks....I only have a 7'
door I think.
I'll put the info on my "workspace requirements" tips page after
I get it.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 6
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| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction
real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd
like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put
them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler
and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches
look like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler
that you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the
same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that
I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint
and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the
non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my
headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY
need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want
to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel
while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have
my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while
yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get
stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install
empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also
hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 7
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| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them |
Very cool. I'm all for that kind of storage. I built this shelf
for snowmobiles in the garage...created my own engineered beams that
were 14' long. 4 chain hoists to raise it. Can do it alone, but
as you say, easier with 2.
See attached at bottom.....
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Lewis wrote:
> G'day,
>
> I added supports to the large empennage box and hung it from the roof
> with pulleys. It can be put up and down by one person, but two makes it
> much easier. See pic attached.
>
> Have fun,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | RE: Gluing doors |
What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
I saw the post on painting the flange black also but opted not to. I do
plan to paint 3/4" over the plexi on the outside (that is to make it even
with the flange). You should see just a little of the paint when sitting
inside.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front
> and side windows today. I see that it would be impossible
> almost to make the "perfect", so I'm glad to see these
> responses come the way they did.
>
> A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted
> black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice,
> or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well
> enough? When all is said and done, do you paint over that
> area anyway on the outside of the plexi, or will it show
> thru?
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> >
> > Tim,
> > I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the outside
yet.
> > But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I think it may be
> > better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it is squeezed out.
The
> > flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will hurt.
> > Anh
> > #141
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >> From anyone who's done the windshield...
> >>
> >>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
> >>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
> >>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
> >>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
> >>when done?
> >>
> >>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
> >>to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
> >>to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
> >>there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
> >>so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
> >>to be the inevitible. :)
> >>Tim
> >>--
> >>
> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>Current project: Fuselage
> >>
> >>DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
====================================
====================================
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That sounds good to me. I didn't know if paint adhered well to
Plexi, but with all the replies saying so, I guess it will.
If I'm painting over it, like you, I see no need to paint the black
edge. Anh, did you paint your top inside yet? If so, how
smooth did you make it before you painted. I've only gone to 120
grit so far, and still have some additional shaping to do to try
to get those exposed frame areas looking smoother. Sure would
be nice if everything could be covered with headliner real easy,
buy my guess is that covering those areas wouldn't be easy, or
in one piece. I did notice that Randy put headliner right over
those inside door hinge attach areas....so at least I obviouly
don't have to do any sanding there.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> I saw the post on painting the flange black also but opted not to. I do
> plan to paint 3/4" over the plexi on the outside (that is to make it even
> with the flange). You should see just a little of the paint when sitting
> inside.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 2:51 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front
>>and side windows today. I see that it would be impossible
>>almost to make the "perfect", so I'm glad to see these
>>responses come the way they did.
>>
>>A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted
>>black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice,
>>or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well
>>enough? When all is said and done, do you paint over that
>>area anyway on the outside of the plexi, or will it show
>>thru?
>>
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>>
>>>Tim,
>>>I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the outside
>
> yet.
>
>>>But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I think it may be
>>>better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it is squeezed out.
>
> The
>
>>>flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will hurt.
>>>Anh
>>>#141
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>>
>>>>From anyone who's done the windshield...
>>>>
>>>>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has
>>>>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order
>>>>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass
>>>>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area
>>>>when done?
>>>>
>>>>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going
>>>>to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping
>>>>to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If
>>>>there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note:
>>>>so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems
>>>>to be the inevitible. :)
>>>>Tim
>>>>--
>>>>
>>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>>
>>>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so
if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should
get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs
is equal to Van's.
Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that
line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up.
As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line
to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes
of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the
fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like
these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have
good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>
>
>
>
> What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
> Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
>
> Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
> is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
> recommend it.
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
> other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
> up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
> get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
>
> Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
> around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
> thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
> one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
> self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
> used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
> respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
> pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
> then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
> like a pain though.
>
> Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
> you recommended?
>
>
> Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
> time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
> moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
> I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
> areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
> within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
> limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
> I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
> permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
> your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
> as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
> panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
> know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
> hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
> go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
> wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
> wingtip yet.
>
> This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
> key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
> mine is not.
>
> Tim
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim, the 1.25" drum worked well for me on the inside of the gutters. It
only does a small streak at a time but more effective than the belt sander
or orbital. Keep the drum moving or it will create "flat" spots. I then
went over them again with 80grit taped to a 2X2 block. Then again 80grit
with just your hands. Then 150grit. Then two coats of Poly Fiber
Smooth-Prime, as Gary mentioned. Then sand that down with 150grit.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
> other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction
> real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd
> like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put
> them up.
>
> Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
> around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
> thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
> one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
> self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
> used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
> respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
> pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler
> and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches
> look like a pain though.
>
> Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler
> that you recommended?
>
>
> Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the
> same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that
> I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint
> and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the
> non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my
> headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
> limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
> I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
> permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY
> need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want
> to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel
> while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have
> my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while
> yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get
> stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install
> empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also
> hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet.
>
> This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
> key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
> mine is not.
>
> Tim
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
How much Smooth Prime should one get to cover the cabin roof, cowl, etc? That
stuff's not cheap!
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 16
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| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Cab-o-sil is a feather weight filler similar to micro-balloons but lighter
even. Got mine from a local boating store. Let's see, you'll need
Milled-fiber (very heavy structural filler) once the cabin top is installed.
I know of at least person that used Johnson's baby powder instead. Weld-On
10 to glue the plexis. 3M "Super Silicone Adhesive" or Permatex clear
silicone sealant from local auto stores to glue the rubber seals to the
doors.
Keep the trimmings from the doors. The instructions call for cutting scrap
al to help hold the rubber seals to the doors. The trimmings worked well
for me and they will already have $40 holes in them. Can't think of
anything else right now.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so
> if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should
> get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
>
> Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
> I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs
> is equal to Van's.
>
> Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
> to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
> if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that
> line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up.
> As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line
> to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes
> of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the
> fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like
> these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have
> good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
> lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> >
> > TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
> >
> > TDT
> > 40025
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
> > Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> >
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
> >
> > Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
> > is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
> > recommend it.
> > Gary
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
> > To: RV10
> > Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
> > other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
> > up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
> > get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
> >
> > Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
> > around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
> > thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
> > one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
> > self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
> > used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
> > respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
> > pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
> > then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
> > like a pain though.
> >
> > Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
> > you recommended?
> >
> >
> > Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
> > time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
> > moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
> > I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
> > areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
> > within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
> > limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
> > I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
> > permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
> > your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
> > as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
> > panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
> > know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
> > hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
> > go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
> > wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
> > wingtip yet.
> >
> > This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
> > key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
> > mine is not.
> >
> > Tim
> > --
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ====================================
> > ====================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
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| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim, the directions on the qt-size can say it takes 3 qts to do the entire
plane, assuming you're building a glass plane I guess. I bought one qt and
have used it on the doors and gutters (inside). I think I might get by with
just one qt.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
How much Smooth Prime should one get to cover the cabin roof, cowl, etc?
That stuff's not cheap!
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
====================================
====================================
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