---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 06/26/05: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:54 AM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Gary Specketer) 2. 05:35 AM - Re: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Marcus Cooper) 3. 07:03 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Marcus Cooper) 4. 08:38 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts (Robin Wessel) 5. 10:49 AM - Gear-on Height (Tim Olson) 6. 10:58 AM - Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Tim Olson) 7. 11:32 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Gary Specketer) 8. 08:01 PM - Re: Storage of kit items while you are working on them (Tim Olson) 9. 08:44 PM - Re: Gluing doors (Tim Dawson-Townsend) 10. 08:50 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (DejaVu) 11. 08:56 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (DejaVu) 12. 09:05 PM - Re: Windshield trimming - Gap fill (Tim Olson) 13. 09:10 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Tim Olson) 14. 09:10 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (DejaVu) 15. 09:10 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Tim Dawson-Townsend) 16. 09:44 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (DejaVu) 17. 09:48 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (DejaVu) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:54:34 AM PST US From: "Gary Specketer" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" If you only cover the outside of the Plex with paint, then when you sit inside you can see the underside of the outside paint. It is preferable to have both the inside and outside cover the same amount of plex. I do not have any info on the adheasion of the glue to the painted plex. On my previous planes I epoxied them in. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front and side windows today. I see that it would be impossible almost to make the "perfect", so I'm glad to see these responses come the way they did. A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice, or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well enough? When all is said and done, do you paint over that area anyway on the outside of the plexi, or will it show thru? Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage DejaVu wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" > > Tim, > I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the > outside yet. But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I > think it may be better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it > is squeezed out. The flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will > hurt. Anh #141 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Olson" > To: "RV10" > Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >> From anyone who's done the windshield... >> >>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has >>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order >>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass >>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area when done? >> >>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going to be >>pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping to hear that >>it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If there's an 1/8" gap >>somewhere, is that a big deal? **note: so far, I haven't screwed >>up...just planning for what seems to be the inevitible. :) >>Tim >>-- >> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>Current project: Fuselage >> >>DO NOT ARCHIVE >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:35:25 AM PST US From: "Marcus Cooper" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts Thanks for all the replies, looks like the mounts are coming out today. It sure is nice having folks out in front of this process to build the learning curve. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Wessel Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts Yep- you have to take them out and perform a few operations. Before re-installing you have to: Install floor plates Nut plates for the mounts Drill four holes thru the center section- this procedure requires a 6" #21 bit and a angle drill with a collet chuck. Insulation (optional) I forgot to drill the holes and ended up removing it twice! Robin Wessel Tigard, OR ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:03:57 AM PST US From: "Marcus Cooper" Subject: RV10-List: RE: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts Robin, Again, thanks for the help. I do have one question though, for the life of me I can't find the four #21 holes you mention through the center section. Could you give me some more details on what to look for? Any chance these are the #12 holes, two on each side, that have a spacer tube that run between the center sections along the top of the gear mount? If so, mine are already drilled and had bolts in them (although incredibly tight fit, I destroyed the threads on one bolt getting it out). Thanks, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: Robin Wessel [mailto:robin.wessel@comcast.net] Subject: Re: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts Yep- you have to take them out and perform a few operations. Before re-installing you have to: Install floor plates Nut plates for the mounts Drill four holes thru the center section- this procedure requires a 6" #21 bit and a angle drill with a collet chuck. Insulation (optional) I forgot to drill the holes and ended up removing it twice! Robin Wessel Tigard, OR ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:38:31 AM PST US From: "Robin Wessel" Subject: RV10-List: RE: QB Fuselage Landing Gear Mounts . . . I can't find the four #21 holes you mention through the center section. Could you give me some more details on what to look for? Any chance these are the #12 holes, . . . . Your right- I meant to say #12 not #21. I have QB fuse ser #175. Not sure if later production runs have them pre-drilled. robin ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:49:24 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Gear-on Height --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Can someone with their -10 on gear (preferably without engine mounted yet, but I'll take anything) measure from floor to belly under rear seats, and, if possible, from floor to top of canopy. I'd like to make sure that I'll be able to fit this out my garage door if I put the gear on in the next couple weeks....I only have a 7' door I think. I'll put the info on my "workspace requirements" tips page after I get it. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:58:11 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look like a pain though. Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that you recommended? Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:32:18 AM PST US From: "Gary Specketer" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly recommend it. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look like a pain though. Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that you recommended? Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:01:29 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Storage of kit items while you are working on them Very cool. I'm all for that kind of storage. I built this shelf for snowmobiles in the garage...created my own engineered beams that were 14' long. 4 chain hoists to raise it. Can do it alone, but as you say, easier with 2. See attached at bottom..... Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE Scott Lewis wrote: > G'day, > > I added supports to the large empennage box and hung it from the roof > with pulleys. It can be put up and down by one person, but two makes it > much easier. See pic attached. > > Have fun, > Scott Lewis > RV-10 40172 VH-DRS > Adelaide, South Australia > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:44:34 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together? TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly recommend it. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look like a pain though. Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that you recommended? Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:50:21 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" I saw the post on painting the flange black also but opted not to. I do plan to paint 3/4" over the plexi on the outside (that is to make it even with the flange). You should see just a little of the paint when sitting inside. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front > and side windows today. I see that it would be impossible > almost to make the "perfect", so I'm glad to see these > responses come the way they did. > > A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted > black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice, > or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well > enough? When all is said and done, do you paint over that > area anyway on the outside of the plexi, or will it show > thru? > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage > > > DejaVu wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" > > > > Tim, > > I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the outside yet. > > But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I think it may be > > better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it is squeezed out. The > > flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will hurt. > > Anh > > #141 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Tim Olson" > > To: "RV10" > > Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill > > > > > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > >> > >> From anyone who's done the windshield... > >> > >>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has > >>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order > >>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass > >>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area > >>when done? > >> > >>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going > >>to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping > >>to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If > >>there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note: > >>so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems > >>to be the inevitible. :) > >>Tim > >>-- > >> > >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > >>Current project: Fuselage > >> > >>DO NOT ARCHIVE > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:18 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together? TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly recommend it. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look like a pain though. Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that you recommended? Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ==================================== ==================================== ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:05:21 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson That sounds good to me. I didn't know if paint adhered well to Plexi, but with all the replies saying so, I guess it will. If I'm painting over it, like you, I see no need to paint the black edge. Anh, did you paint your top inside yet? If so, how smooth did you make it before you painted. I've only gone to 120 grit so far, and still have some additional shaping to do to try to get those exposed frame areas looking smoother. Sure would be nice if everything could be covered with headliner real easy, buy my guess is that covering those areas wouldn't be easy, or in one piece. I did notice that Randy put headliner right over those inside door hinge attach areas....so at least I obviouly don't have to do any sanding there. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE DejaVu wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" > > I saw the post on painting the flange black also but opted not to. I do > plan to paint 3/4" over the plexi on the outside (that is to make it even > with the flange). You should see just a little of the paint when sitting > inside. > Anh > #141 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Olson" > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 2:51 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >>Thanks Anh, (and Jesse too!) I did my trimming on the front >>and side windows today. I see that it would be impossible >>almost to make the "perfect", so I'm glad to see these >>responses come the way they did. >> >>A follow-up.... I thought I'd heard that someone painted >>black on that 3/4" flange. Is this the common practice, >>or will that paint cause the weld-on 10 to not stick well >>enough? When all is said and done, do you paint over that >>area anyway on the outside of the plexi, or will it show >>thru? >> >> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>Current project: Fuselage >> >> >> >>DejaVu wrote: >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" >>> >>>Tim, >>>I have only glued the windows on so far and have not filled the outside > > yet. > >>>But having worked with the Weld-On 10 a few nights ago I think it may be >>>better to have a small gap to "catch" the glue when it is squeezed out. > > The > >>>flange is 3/4". I don't see how 1/8" gap will hurt. >>>Anh >>>#141 >>> >>>----- Original Message ----- >>>From: "Tim Olson" >>>To: "RV10" >>>Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 3:46 PM >>>Subject: RV10-List: Windshield trimming - Gap fill >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>>> >>>>From anyone who's done the windshield... >>>> >>>>Is the top edge of the windshield something that has >>>>to be trimmed perfectly to the lip of the canopy in order >>>>to look good at the end, or is there some sort of glass >>>>fill that fills the seam, and paint that covers that area >>>>when done? >>>> >>>>I'm presently trimming the windshield, and I think it's going >>>>to be pretty hard to get it 100% perfect, so I'm just hoping >>>>to hear that it's not *that* critical of a fit anyway. If >>>>there's an 1/8" gap somewhere, is that a big deal? **note: >>>>so far, I haven't screwed up...just planning for what seems >>>>to be the inevitible. :) >>>>Tim >>>>-- >>>> >>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>>>Current project: Fuselage >>>> >>>>DO NOT ARCHIVE >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:10:27 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon? Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce? I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs is equal to Van's. Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean, if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up. As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better. Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE DejaVu wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" > > TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > To: > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM > Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors > > > > > What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together? > > TDT > 40025 > > > ________________________________ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer > Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" > > Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that > is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly > recommend it. > Gary > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner > other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real > up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to > get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. > > Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells > around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm > thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat > one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will > self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just > used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking > respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking > pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and > then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look > like a pain though. > > Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that > you recommended? > > > Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same > time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm > moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when > I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner > areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand > within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be > limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. > I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on > permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need > your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this > as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole > panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to > know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be > hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to > go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my > wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the > wingtip yet. > > This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of > key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which > mine is not. > > Tim > -- > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ==================================== > ==================================== > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:10:27 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" Tim, the 1.25" drum worked well for me on the inside of the gutters. It only does a small streak at a time but more effective than the belt sander or orbital. Keep the drum moving or it will create "flat" spots. I then went over them again with 80grit taped to a 2X2 block. Then again 80grit with just your hands. Then 150grit. Then two coats of Poly Fiber Smooth-Prime, as Gary mentioned. Then sand that down with 150grit. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner > other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction > real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd > like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put > them up. > > Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells > around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm > thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat > one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will > self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just > used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking > respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking > pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler > and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches > look like a pain though. > > Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler > that you recommended? > > > Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the > same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that > I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint > and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the > non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my > headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be > limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. > I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on > permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY > need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want > to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel > while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have > my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while > yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get > stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install > empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also > hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. > > This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of > key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which > mine is not. > > Tim > -- > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:10:30 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" How much Smooth Prime should one get to cover the cabin roof, cowl, etc? That stuff's not cheap! TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly recommend it. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look like a pain though. Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that you recommended? Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:44:16 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" Cab-o-sil is a feather weight filler similar to micro-balloons but lighter even. Got mine from a local boating store. Let's see, you'll need Milled-fiber (very heavy structural filler) once the cabin top is installed. I know of at least person that used Johnson's baby powder instead. Weld-On 10 to glue the plexis. 3M "Super Silicone Adhesive" or Permatex clear silicone sealant from local auto stores to glue the rubber seals to the doors. Keep the trimmings from the doors. The instructions call for cutting scrap al to help hold the rubber seals to the doors. The trimmings worked well for me and they will already have $40 holes in them. Can't think of anything else right now. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so > if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should > get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon? > > Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce? > I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs > is equal to Van's. > > Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve > to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean, > if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that > line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up. > As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line > to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes > of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the > fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like > these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have > good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon > lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better. > Tim > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > DejaVu wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" > > > > TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors > > > > > > > > > > What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together? > > > > TDT > > 40025 > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer > > Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass > > > > > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" > > > > Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that > > is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly > > recommend it. > > Gary > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM > > To: RV10 > > Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass > > > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > > Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner > > other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real > > up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to > > get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. > > > > Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells > > around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm > > thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat > > one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will > > self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just > > used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking > > respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking > > pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and > > then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look > > like a pain though. > > > > Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that > > you recommended? > > > > > > Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same > > time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm > > moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when > > I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner > > areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand > > within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be > > limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. > > I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on > > permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need > > your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this > > as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole > > panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to > > know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be > > hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to > > go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my > > wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the > > wingtip yet. > > > > This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of > > key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which > > mine is not. > > > > Tim > > -- > > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > > Current project: Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ==================================== > > ==================================== > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:48:33 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" Tim, the directions on the qt-size can say it takes 3 qts to do the entire plane, assuming you're building a glass plane I guess. I bought one qt and have used it on the doors and gutters (inside). I think I might get by with just one qt. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass How much Smooth Prime should one get to cover the cabin roof, cowl, etc? That stuff's not cheap! TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly recommend it. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up. Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look like a pain though. Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that you recommended? Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel. I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the wingtip yet. This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage ==================================== ====================================