Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:33 AM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Tim Olson)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Gary Specketer)
3. 06:31 AM - Doors right after canopy fit. (Tim Olson)
4. 07:47 AM - Re: Gear-on Height (Randy DeBauw)
5. 07:49 AM - RV-10 MT Propeller Group Buy (CustomACProp@aol.com)
6. 08:09 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Randy DeBauw)
7. 08:10 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Randy DeBauw)
8. 08:11 AM - Re: Gluing doors (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
9. 08:12 AM - Re: Gear-on Height (Tim Olson)
10. 08:13 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
11. 08:15 AM - Data mistake in RV-10 MT Propeller group buy email (CustomACProp@aol.com)
12. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Randy DeBauw)
13. 08:28 AM - Re: Gear-on Height (Randy DeBauw)
14. 08:32 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Randy DeBauw)
15. 09:24 AM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (Tim Olson)
16. 10:33 AM - (Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk))
17. 10:59 AM - Gadgets for sale (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
18. 03:27 PM - Manifold Pressure (Jesse Saint)
19. 03:46 PM - Re: Manifold Pressure (Dan Checkoway)
20. 04:05 PM - Re: Manifold Pressure (Randy DeBauw)
21. 04:20 PM - Re: Manifold Pressure (linn walters)
22. 05:15 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Mark Grieve)
23. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Gluing doors (Sean Stephens)
24. 05:49 PM - Aux fuel tanks? (James Hein)
25. 06:10 PM - Re: Manifold Pressure (Jesse Saint)
26. 07:20 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (DejaVu)
27. 07:30 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
28. 08:17 PM - Re: Aux fuel tanks? (Dan Malwitz)
29. 09:37 PM - Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I bought 3 different types of filler when I bought my West system
epoxy. Randy tipped me off to this. Here's a clip from
my non-included items on the tips page:
Quantity (2) of 105-A (1qt resin) and (2) 205-A (hardner),
(1) 300 Mini Pump Set A, (1) 403 Microfibers, (1) 406 Colloidal Silica,
(1) 410 Microlight. My total was ~ $125.
Use 406 for Thickening (white)
Use 410 Brown Power Mix like Bondo for Filler
Get the books from WestSystem, and the stuff from dealers.
I wonder if the 410, or possible 403 or 406 is the equivalent
to the cab-o-sil. If so, then I should be good to go
on that. Randy, which did you use?
That west system stuff is awesome, by the way. The pump cans
make it very convenient. I had both parts opened a few months
ago. yesterday I needed a little epoxy. One pump from each
can, and I was in business. It doesn't clog up in the
pump, and is a fantastic way to dispense.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Cab-o-sil is a feather weight filler similar to micro-balloons but lighter
> even. Got mine from a local boating store. Let's see, you'll need
> Milled-fiber (very heavy structural filler) once the cabin top is installed.
> I know of at least person that used Johnson's baby powder instead. Weld-On
> 10 to glue the plexis. 3M "Super Silicone Adhesive" or Permatex clear
> silicone sealant from local auto stores to glue the rubber seals to the
> doors.
> Keep the trimmings from the doors. The instructions call for cutting scrap
> al to help hold the rubber seals to the doors. The trimmings worked well
> for me and they will already have $40 holes in them. Can't think of
> anything else right now.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 12:10 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so
>>if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should
>>get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
>>
>>Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
>>I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs
>>is equal to Van's.
>>
>>Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
>>to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
>>if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that
>>line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up.
>>As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line
>>to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes
>>of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the
>>fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like
>>these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have
>>good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
>>lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
>>Tim
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>>
>>>TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
>>>Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
>>>
>>>TDT
>>>40025
>>>
>>>
>>>________________________________
>>>
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
>>>Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
>>>is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
>>>recommend it.
>>>Gary
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
>>>To: RV10
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
>>>other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
>>>up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
>>>get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
>>>
>>>Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
>>>around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
>>>thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
>>>one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
>>>self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
>>>used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
>>>respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
>>>pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
>>>then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
>>>like a pain though.
>>>
>>>Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
>>>you recommended?
>>>
>>>
>>>Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
>>>time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
>>>moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
>>>I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
>>>areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
>>>within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
>>>limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
>>>I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
>>>permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
>>>your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
>>>as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
>>>panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
>>>know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
>>>hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
>>>go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
>>>wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
>>>wingtip yet.
>>>
>>>This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
>>>key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
>>>mine is not.
>>>
>>>Tim
>>>--
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>====================================
>>>====================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Cab-o-sil is used to thicken epoxy without loosing strength. Micro
balloons is used to lighten an epoxy slurry and thus make it easier to
sand. But, it also makes it weaker, so you use it on non structural
areas. Hope that helps
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Cab-o-sil is a feather weight filler similar to micro-balloons but
lighter even. Got mine from a local boating store. Let's see, you'll
need Milled-fiber (very heavy structural filler) once the cabin top is
installed. I know of at least person that used Johnson's baby powder
instead. Weld-On 10 to glue the plexis. 3M "Super Silicone Adhesive"
or Permatex clear silicone sealant from local auto stores to glue the
rubber seals to the doors. Keep the trimmings from the doors. The
instructions call for cutting scrap al to help hold the rubber seals to
the doors. The trimmings worked well for me and they will already have
$40 holes in them. Can't think of anything else right now. Anh #141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so if
> there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should get it
> now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
>
> Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
> I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs is
> equal to Van's.
>
> Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
> to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
> if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that line
> is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up. As a strain-relief
> measure, I'm considering re-doing that line to add a strain relief
> loop so it goes down, loops, and comes of the loop 90 degrees to where
> it went in and then into the fuel filter. Following the regular RV
> list it sounds like these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you
> don't have good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
> lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> >
> > TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh
> > #141
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
> >
> > TDT
> > 40025
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary
> > Specketer
> > Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> >
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
> > --> <speckter@comcast.net>
> >
> > Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime
> > that is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I
> > highly recommend it. Gary
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
> > To: RV10
> > Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your
> > headliner other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any
> > post-construction real up-close-and-personal photos of some of the
> > details that you'd like to get posted on your page?? If so, send
> > them on and I'll put them up.
> >
> > Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
> > around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
> > thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it
> > flat one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that
will
> > self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
> > used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
> > respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
> > pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler
> > and then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches
> > look like a pain though.
> >
> > Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler
> > that you recommended?
> >
> >
> > Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
> > time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that
> > I'm moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint
> > and when I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the
> > non-headliner areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my
> > headliner in-hand within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
> > limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
> > I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
> > permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY
> > need your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to
> > make this as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while
> > that whole panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my
> > panel in hand to know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so
> > I'm going to be hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess
> > it's a good time to go back and install empennage tip fairings, and
> > finish sanding my wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training
> > edge rib in the wingtip yet.
> >
> > This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
> > components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
> >
> > Tim
> > --
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ====================================
> > ====================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Doors right after canopy fit. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was thinking this a.m. (scary) Since I'm going to have to
do some finish sanding, and wait for my headliner anyway, and I
really can't rivet my panel top on until I get my panel (or
I'll have a tougher time cutting my subpanel), maybe now that
my canopy is fitted, it would be a good time to just move on
and fit the doors. Does this sound reasonable?
I think I'll actually just cleco the canopy on and that should be
good enough to star the doors, right? They supposedly
take a long time, so I may as well do them before I get too
far into anything else. Plus, I noticed Randy had to grind his
door edge lip a bit to get the hinges to close when doing the
doors, so if I fit the doors now, before the canopy is riveted,
it may make it a little easier to just finish and paint it
all at once on the inside. I wouldn't have to re-trim around
the canopy door area after it's painted.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim, I could roll the plane in and out of the garage with the wheels and
canopy on. My door is also 7' tall. You have 2 to 3 inches of clearance.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Gear-on Height
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Can someone with their -10 on gear (preferably without engine mounted
yet, but I'll take anything) measure from floor to belly under rear
seats, and, if possible, from floor to top of canopy. I'd like to make
sure that I'll be able to fit this out my garage door if I put the gear
on in the next couple weeks....I only have a 7'
door I think.
I'll put the info on my "workspace requirements" tips page after I get
it.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | RV-10 MT Propeller Group Buy |
Hi All,
Is now the time for the RV-10 MT Propeller Group Buy? It's up to you.
I am offering the MTV-12-B/193-53 propeller and spinner delivered fully
assembled to your closest international airport for $7,100 plus shipping*. By
shipping the RV-10 propeller assembled directly from Germany, you receive your
propeller ready to bolt onto the front of your RV-10 and fly.
The total weight of this propeller assembly is 48 pounds, compared to 56
pounds for the Hartzell aluminum 2 blade propeller.
The RV-10 MT 3 blade propeller is available with blades painted Dull Gray
with Gloss White tips.
The Spinner can be painted White, Red, Black, Gray, Yellow, or left in
Primer only.
These are standard colors, so there is no extra cost.
(Contact me directly for no additional cost blade color choices.)
"Cost" was given as the reason Van's Aircraft does not actively support MT
Propeller.
I am doing everything I can to reduce the cost.
The list price for theis propeller is $9,380. I am offering a 24% discount
off of list price.
*Depending on location in the USA, shipping assembled to the closest
international airport is $1,050 plus or minus $150.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
(805) 795-5377
_CustomACProp@aol.com_ (mailto:CustomACProp@aol.com)
Custom Aircraft Propeller - A division of Less Drag Products, Inc.
_www.lessdrag.com_ (http://www.lessdrag.com)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I sprayed the backside of the headliner for about 1/2" and folded it
back on itself. Then just glued the folded edge down.
I have so small touchup areas to still do. Re-gluing in a couple of edge
areas and in the back on the rivet line I had to pull up the headliner
get to a couple of rivets. If I was to do it again I would not glue down
the headliner a long the rivet line running under the back windows.
Leave it open for access until the last minute. The factory stopped the
headliner under the backing strip that runs along under the rear window.
I continued mine down to the longerons. I will be adding a rubber cap
material along the longerons. I have some c shaped material I glued on
the glare shield edge. I looks nicer the fuel line. I bought it a
Spencer Aircraft but it is available at Spruce. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 7
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| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I couldn't remember the name but that is what Vans uses to cover their
cowls before painting.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Gluing doors |
Use West Systems. It works great for all of you epoxy needs. Available
at West Marine if you have one in you area. Randy
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: Gluing doors
What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
recommend it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gear-on Height |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sounds great. Hopefully that was pre-engine. I'll measure my
door today and send you the exact height if it's not 7' tall.
If anyone still has the time to measure their un-engined
rolling fuselage, I'd love that measurement anyway. If I can't
get it within a week though, I think I'll just stick my wheels
on and do the measurement myself...and pray my door is a full
7 feet.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Tim, I could roll the plane in and out of the garage with the wheels and
> canopy on. My door is also 7' tall. You have 2 to 3 inches of clearance.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:49 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear-on Height
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Can someone with their -10 on gear (preferably without engine mounted
> yet, but I'll take anything) measure from floor to belly under rear
> seats, and, if possible, from floor to top of canopy. I'd like to make
> sure that I'll be able to fit this out my garage door if I put the gear
> on in the next couple weeks....I only have a 7'
> door I think.
>
> I'll put the info on my "workspace requirements" tips page after I get
> it.
>
> Tim
Message 10
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| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Randy:
I know I asked a couple months back, but didn't record your answer, and I'm too
lazy to search the archives:
Can you repeat how much headliner you used to do your top? Wondering how much
to order . . .
Thanks,
TDT
40025
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I sprayed the backside of the headliner for about 1/2" and folded it
back on itself. Then just glued the folded edge down.
I have so small touchup areas to still do. Re-gluing in a couple of edge
areas and in the back on the rivet line I had to pull up the headliner
get to a couple of rivets. If I was to do it again I would not glue down
the headliner a long the rivet line running under the back windows.
Leave it open for access until the last minute. The factory stopped the
headliner under the backing strip that runs along under the rear window.
I continued mine down to the longerons. I will be adding a rubber cap
material along the longerons. I have some c shaped material I glued on
the glare shield edge. I looks nicer the fuel line. I bought it a
Spencer Aircraft but it is available at Spruce. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Data mistake in RV-10 MT Propeller group buy email |
Hi All,
I accidently listed the 56 pound weight of the 72" diameter aluminum 2 blade
Hartzell for the Lycoming (I)O-360 engine.
The 80" diameter aluminum 2 blade Hartzell propeller assembly weighed 66
pounds.
The 3 blade RV-10 MT Propeller assembly still weighed in at 48 pounds. (Or
47.7 pounds for the data nuts.)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
_CustomACProp@aol.com_ (mailto:CustomACProp@aol.com)
(805) 795-5377
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I used 406 for most things. If I was non structural I used 410 because
it really sands easy. The 403 is for areas that need a lot of filling.
I cures bumpy so you have to go after it with 60 grit when done but it
sands reasonably well. Don't forget that you can mix 403 and 406. I will
fill a little better but it will end up smoother. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I bought 3 different types of filler when I bought my West system
epoxy. Randy tipped me off to this. Here's a clip from
my non-included items on the tips page:
Quantity (2) of 105-A (1qt resin) and (2) 205-A (hardner),
(1) 300 Mini Pump Set A, (1) 403 Microfibers, (1) 406 Colloidal Silica,
(1) 410 Microlight. My total was ~ $125.
Use 406 for Thickening (white)
Use 410 Brown Power Mix like Bondo for Filler Get the books from
WestSystem, and the stuff from dealers.
I wonder if the 410, or possible 403 or 406 is the equivalent
to the cab-o-sil. If so, then I should be good to go
on that. Randy, which did you use?
That west system stuff is awesome, by the way. The pump cans
make it very convenient. I had both parts opened a few months
ago. yesterday I needed a little epoxy. One pump from each
can, and I was in business. It doesn't clog up in the
pump, and is a fantastic way to dispense.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Cab-o-sil is a feather weight filler similar to micro-balloons but
lighter
> even. Got mine from a local boating store. Let's see, you'll need
> Milled-fiber (very heavy structural filler) once the cabin top is
installed.
> I know of at least person that used Johnson's baby powder instead.
Weld-On
> 10 to glue the plexis. 3M "Super Silicone Adhesive" or Permatex clear
> silicone sealant from local auto stores to glue the rubber seals to
the
> doors.
> Keep the trimmings from the doors. The instructions call for cutting
scrap
> al to help hold the rubber seals to the doors. The trimmings worked
well
> for me and they will already have $40 holes in them. Can't think of
> anything else right now.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 12:10 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so
>>if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should
>>get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
>>
>>Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
>>I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs
>>is equal to Van's.
>>
>>Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
>>to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
>>if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that
>>line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up.
>>As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line
>>to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes
>>of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the
>>fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like
>>these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have
>>good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
>>lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
>>Tim
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>>
>>>TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh
#141
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
>>>Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
>>>
>>>TDT
>>>40025
>>>
>>>
>>>________________________________
>>>
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary
Specketer
>>>Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
<speckter@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime
that
>>>is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
>>>recommend it.
>>>Gary
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
>>>To: RV10
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your
headliner
>>>other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction
real
>>>up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like
to
>>>get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
>>>
>>>Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
>>>around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
>>>thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it
flat
>>>one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
>>>self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
>>>used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
>>>respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
>>>pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler
and
>>>then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
>>>like a pain though.
>>>
>>>Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler
that
>>>you recommended?
>>>
>>>
>>>Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
>>>time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
>>>moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and
when
>>>I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
>>>areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
>>>within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
>>>limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
>>>I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
>>>permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
>>>your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make
this
>>>as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
>>>panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
>>>know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
>>>hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time
to
>>>go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
>>>wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
>>>wingtip yet.
>>>
>>>This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
>>>key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
>>>mine is not.
>>>
>>>Tim
>>>--
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>====================================
>>>====================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Engine only lowers the front. The back is door area doesn't change much
with engine on. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear-on Height
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sounds great. Hopefully that was pre-engine. I'll measure my door today
and send you the exact height if it's not 7' tall.
If anyone still has the time to measure their un-engined rolling
fuselage, I'd love that measurement anyway. If I can't get it within a
week though, I think I'll just stick my wheels on and do the measurement
myself...and pray my door is a full
7 feet.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Tim, I could roll the plane in and out of the garage with the wheels
> and canopy on. My door is also 7' tall. You have 2 to 3 inches of
clearance.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:49 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear-on Height
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Can someone with their -10 on gear (preferably without engine mounted
> yet, but I'll take anything) measure from floor to belly under rear
> seats, and, if possible, from floor to top of canopy. I'd like to
> make sure that I'll be able to fit this out my garage door if I put
> the gear on in the next couple weeks....I only have a 7'
> door I think.
>
> I'll put the info on my "workspace requirements" tips page after I get
> it.
>
> Tim
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Here is the link.
http://www.perfectfit.com/products/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=62&cat=Aut
o+Foam+Backed+Headlining
PH-1000-1/8 light grey is what I used.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
--> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Randy:
I know I asked a couple months back, but didn't record your answer, and
I'm too lazy to search the archives:
Can you repeat how much headliner you used to do your top? Wondering
how much to order . . .
Thanks,
TDT
40025
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I sprayed the backside of the headliner for about 1/2" and folded it
back on itself. Then just glued the folded edge down.
I have so small touchup areas to still do. Re-gluing in a couple of edge
areas and in the back on the rivet line I had to pull up the headliner
get to a couple of rivets. If I was to do it again I would not glue down
the headliner a long the rivet line running under the back windows.
Leave it open for access until the last minute. The factory stopped the
headliner under the backing strip that runs along under the rear window.
I continued mine down to the longerons. I will be adding a rubber cap
material along the longerons. I have some c shaped material I glued on
the glare shield edge. I looks nicer the fuel line. I bought it a
Spencer Aircraft but it is available at Spruce. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
like a pain though.
Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
you recommended?
Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
wingtip yet.
This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just got off the phone with Randy. He didn't remember the exact
quantity on the phone, but did tip me off to another suggestion.
Apparently Anh (chime in Anh) didn't run his roll front-to-back,
but side-to-side, and seamed it right at that stepped area before
you get to the doors. That's a great place for a seam. Randy
said the width of the headliner isn't enough to go all the way
down both sides without seams, but using Anh's method, you
might be able to eliminate some seaming. You'd probably have
to order a little extra material, but it may be well worth it.
Now, on to find a more local distributor for that stuff...
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Randy:
>
> I know I asked a couple months back, but didn't record your answer, and I'm too
lazy to search the archives:
>
> Can you repeat how much headliner you used to do your top? Wondering how much
to order . . .
>
> Thanks,
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 11:09 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I sprayed the backside of the headliner for about 1/2" and folded it
> back on itself. Then just glued the folded edge down.
> I have so small touchup areas to still do. Re-gluing in a couple of edge
> areas and in the back on the rivet line I had to pull up the headliner
> get to a couple of rivets. If I was to do it again I would not glue down
> the headliner a long the rivet line running under the back windows.
> Leave it open for access until the last minute. The factory stopped the
> headliner under the backing strip that runs along under the rear window.
> I continued mine down to the longerons. I will be adding a rubber cap
> material along the longerons. I have some c shaped material I glued on
> the glare shield edge. I looks nicer the fuel line. I bought it a
> Spencer Aircraft but it is available at Spruce. Randy
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:58 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
> other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
> up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
> get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
>
> Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
> around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
> thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
> one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
> self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
> used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
> respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
> pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
> then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
> like a pain though.
>
> Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
> you recommended?
>
>
> Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
> time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
> moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
> I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
> areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
> within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
> limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
> I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
> permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
> your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
> as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
> panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
> know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
> hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
> go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
> wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
> wingtip yet.
>
> This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
> components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
>
> Tim
Message 16
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0.03 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_HTML BODY": rv10-list@matronics.com
It's sad but I find that I must sell my complete rv-10 tail and just
received slow build wings and tools. I have just started on the fuel
tanks. My financial situation dictates that I must sell. So for those
that haven't purchased their tail yet here's a great opportunity to get
a leg up on the build. Please email me at bschroeder@uta.cog.ut.us or
call 801-743-3117 daytime or 801-965-8636 evenings for particulars!
Bob schroeder
Wings 40254
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Gadgets for sale |
I have been a member of this list and several others, and have been able
to take advantage of some group buys, and thought it was my turn to
contribute to the group buys.
I was looking for new gadgets, and began looking at the AVMAP EKPIV. It
has a 7" screen (which is almost twice the 296) and terrain with their
newest update. I talked with the owners of our FBO here, and was
complaining how expensive it was to get a good portable GPS. Long story
short, she went to her suppliers and arranged for a good deal on two
different portable GPS's, and they asked if I knew of others that would
like to upgrade or buy. So of course I told her I would post it on the
groups and get contact info of those interested.
Here is the deal, must be purchased by July 30:
AVMAP EKPIV at $1350 plus shipping, normal price is $1499 plus shipping
or
Lowrance Airmap 2000C $810 plus shipping, normal price is $999 plus
shipping
If anyone is interested please email me and I will get you setup.
Dan Lloyd
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure |
We are having problems with our manifold pressure on the Dynon. The guage
is bouncing about 2-4 lbs whenever the engine is running. It tells us more
or less where we are, but it never stays in one place long enough to
actually get a reading. Has anybody else ever experienced this problem or
heard of somebody else experiencing it. They techs at Dynon say they have
never heard of it. The techs at Van's say they have never heard of it. It
doesn't have anything to do with vibration in the sensor or obstructions in
the hose. It could be a bad sensor, but I thought it would be worth asking.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
Did you use a restrictor fitting on the engine side of the manifold pressure hose?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 3:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Manifold Pressure
We are having problems with our manifold pressure on the Dynon. The guage is
bouncing about 2-4 lbs whenever the engine is running. It tells us more or less
where we are, but it never stays in one place long enough to actually get
a reading. Has anybody else ever experienced this problem or heard of somebody
else experiencing it. They techs at Dynon say they have never heard of it.
The techs at Van's say they have never heard of it. It doesn't have anything
to do with vibration in the sensor or obstructions in the hose. It could be
a bad sensor, but I thought it would be worth asking.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Manifold Pressure |
I am with Dan on this one Jesse. Did you use Van's firewall forward
kit? Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Manifold Pressure
Did you use a restrictor fitting on the engine side of the manifold
pressure hose?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 3:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Manifold Pressure
We are having problems with our manifold pressure on the Dynon.
The guage is bouncing about 2-4 lbs whenever the engine is running. It
tells us more or less where we are, but it never stays in one place long
enough to actually get a reading. Has anybody else ever experienced
this problem or heard of somebody else experiencing it. They techs at
Dynon say they have never heard of it. The techs at Van's say they have
never heard of it. It doesn't have anything to do with vibration in the
sensor or obstructions in the hose. It could be a bad sensor, but I
thought it would be worth asking.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Manifold Pressure |
Jesse, this is reall a WAG, but the symptoms seem to point to a leaking
intake valve. If it is, the 'fluctuations' will be slow at idle, and
get faster as the throttle advances, following engine RPM. Past that, I
haven't a clue. I also con't have a clue exactly how the Dynon measures
MP ...... where is the sensor??? If the sensor is in the Dynon unit
itself, maybe it's a hose issue .... just grasping at straws here.
You will let us know what the solution is, won't you????? ;-)
Linn ..... ignorance is bliss!
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> We are having problems with our manifold pressure on the Dynon. The
> guage is bouncing about 2-4 lbs whenever the engine is running. It
> tells us more or less where we are, but it never stays in one place
> long enough to actually get a reading. Has anybody else ever
> experienced this problem or heard of somebody else experiencing it.
> They techs at Dynon say they have never heard of it. The techs at
> Van's say they have never heard of it. It doesn't have anything to do
> with vibration in the sensor or obstructions in the hose. It could be
> a bad sensor, but I thought it would be worth asking.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Tom,
Cab-o-sil is a brand name for fumed silica. It is a white powdery
substance that is usually sold by volume because it has no weight. You
mix up your epoxy then add Cab-o-sil until the desired consistency is
reached. Terms like cream, honey, vegemite and peanut butter are used to
describe the mix. The thickened epoxy stays put and doesn't run off of
the parts before they have a chance to bond. I would go with the slow
hardener so that you will have time to get things into place before the
epoxy kicks.
Check prices at raka.com. They are a favorite supplier among boat
builders but many of their supplies can be used on airplanes.
I'll start building an airplane as soon as I finish my wood strip kayak.
Mark
Do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so
> if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should
> get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
>
> Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
> I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs
> is equal to Van's.
>
> Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
> to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
> if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that
> line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up.
> As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line
> to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes
> of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the
> fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like
> these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have
> good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
> lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>
>> TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
>> <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
>>
>> TDT
>> 40025
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
>> Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
>>
>> Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
>> is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
>> recommend it.
>> Gary
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
>> other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
>> up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
>> get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
>>
>> Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
>> around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
>> thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
>> one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
>> self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
>> used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
>> respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
>> pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
>> then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
>> like a pain though.
>>
>> Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
>> you recommended?
>>
>>
>> Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
>> time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
>> moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
>> I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
>> areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
>> within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
>> limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
>> I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
>> permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
>> your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
>> as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
>> panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
>> know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
>> hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
>> go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
>> wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
>> wingtip yet.
>>
>> This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
>> key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
>> mine is not.
>>
>> Tim
>> --
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Gluing doors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
If you use West Systems stuff already, then 406 would be a similar
product in their line.
-Sean #40303 flaps
Mark Grieve wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
>
> Tom,
> Cab-o-sil is a brand name for fumed silica. It is a white powdery
> substance that is usually sold by volume because it has no weight. You
> mix up your epoxy then add Cab-o-sil until the desired consistency is
> reached. Terms like cream, honey, vegemite and peanut butter are used
> to describe the mix. The thickened epoxy stays put and doesn't run off
> of the parts before they have a chance to bond. I would go with the
> slow hardener so that you will have time to get things into place
> before the epoxy kicks.
>
> Check prices at raka.com. They are a favorite supplier among boat
> builders but many of their supplies can be used on airplanes.
>
> I'll start building an airplane as soon as I finish my wood strip kayak.
> Mark
> Do not archive
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> What's Cab-o-sil. I'm ordering from Aircraft Spruce tomorrow, so
>> if there's something I should be getting for the doors, I should
>> get it now. Any additional supplies needed soon?
>>
>> Anyone ever buy the soft aluminum fuel line hose from Aircraft Spruce?
>> I think I'm going to order some extra, but don't know if theirs
>> is equal to Van's.
>>
>> Fuel line question: The line coming straight down from the valve
>> to the fuel filter seems to me to be kind of "stiff". I mean,
>> if someone stepped on the valve and made it push down 1/4", that
>> line is so stiff that I don't know how it would hold up.
>> As a strain-relief measure, I'm considering re-doing that line
>> to add a strain relief loop so it goes down, loops, and comes
>> of the loop 90 degrees to where it went in and then into the
>> fuel filter. Following the regular RV list it sounds like
>> these aluminum tubes can get pretty brittle if you don't have
>> good strain relief. I'd even consider getting nice teflon
>> lined braided flex hose if I knew it would be better.
>> Tim
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>>
>>> TDT, the instructions say to use epoxy mixed with cab-o-sil. Anh #141
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
>>> <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:43 PM
>>> Subject: RV10-List: RE: Gluing doors
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> What's the recommended epoxy for gluing the door halves together?
>>>
>>> TDT
>>> 40025
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>>
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gary Specketer
>>> Sent: Sun 6/26/2005 2:31 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
>>> <speckter@comcast.net>
>>>
>>> Go to www.polyfiber.com They have a product called UV Smoothprime that
>>> is great for fillint pin holes and the weave in fiberglass. I highly
>>> recommend it.
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 12:58 PM
>>> To: RV10
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>> Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
>>> other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction
>>> real
>>> up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
>>> get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
>>> around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
>>> thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
>>> one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
>>> self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
>>> used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
>>> respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
>>> pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
>>> then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
>>> like a pain though.
>>>
>>> Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
>>> you recommended?
>>>
>>>
>>> Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
>>> time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
>>> moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
>>> I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
>>> areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
>>> within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
>>> limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
>>> I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
>>> permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
>>> your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
>>> as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
>>> panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
>>> know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
>>> hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
>>> go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
>>> wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
>>> wingtip yet.
>>>
>>> This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of
>>> key components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which
>>> mine is not.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>> --
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ====================================
>>> ====================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 24
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d="scan'208"; a="1086756580:sNHT13137460"
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hi y'all...
For those putting in aux. fuel tanks, what are the options and what
are the pros/cons?
I'm thinking of a 2/3 size tank outboard of each main tank on the wings,
but have no clue how much that would affect balance.
What do y'all think?
-Jim 40384, just finished horizontal stabilizer.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Manifold Pressure |
The FWF kit only called for a -4D nipple, no restrictor fitting. Should I
put on a VA-128? I do have the restrictor fitting going through the
firewall.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Manifold Pressure
Did you use a restrictor fitting on the engine side of the manifold pressure
hose?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Manifold Pressure
We are having problems with our manifold pressure on the Dynon. The guage
is bouncing about 2-4 lbs whenever the engine is running. It tells us more
or less where we are, but it never stays in one place long enough to
actually get a reading. Has anybody else ever experienced this problem or
heard of somebody else experiencing it. They techs at Dynon say they have
never heard of it. The techs at Van's say they have never heard of it. It
doesn't have anything to do with vibration in the sensor or obstructions in
the hose. It could be a bad sensor, but I thought it would be worth asking.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
Tim, yes I did mine side-to-side. One other nice minor thing about running
the liner sideways is that the grain of the fabric goes fore/aft, which is
more pleasing to my eyes. Of course no one can really see that except you
yourself.
I bought 6 yds from the same place that Randy suggested - way too much. I
think 4yds would do. Better check me and measure for yourself though. They
come in either 54" or 60" wide. Either would fit from the baggage bulkhead
to the seam line that you're talking about.
Attached is a pic of some of us at SNF.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I just got off the phone with Randy. He didn't remember the exact
> quantity on the phone, but did tip me off to another suggestion.
> Apparently Anh (chime in Anh) didn't run his roll front-to-back,
> but side-to-side, and seamed it right at that stepped area before
> you get to the doors. That's a great place for a seam. Randy
> said the width of the headliner isn't enough to go all the way
> down both sides without seams, but using Anh's method, you
> might be able to eliminate some seaming. You'd probably have
> to order a little extra material, but it may be well worth it.
>
> Now, on to find a more local distributor for that stuff...
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
> >
> >
> > Randy:
> >
> > I know I asked a couple months back, but didn't record your answer, and
I'm too lazy to search the archives:
> >
> > Can you repeat how much headliner you used to do your top? Wondering
how much to order . . .
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > TDT
> > 40025
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> > Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 11:09 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
> >
> > I sprayed the backside of the headliner for about 1/2" and folded it
> > back on itself. Then just glued the folded edge down.
> > I have so small touchup areas to still do. Re-gluing in a couple of edge
> > areas and in the back on the rivet line I had to pull up the headliner
> > get to a couple of rivets. If I was to do it again I would not glue down
> > the headliner a long the rivet line running under the back windows.
> > Leave it open for access until the last minute. The factory stopped the
> > headliner under the backing strip that runs along under the rear window.
> > I continued mine down to the longerons. I will be adding a rubber cap
> > material along the longerons. I have some c shaped material I glued on
> > the glare shield edge. I looks nicer the fuel line. I bought it a
> > Spencer Aircraft but it is available at Spruce. Randy
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 10:58 AM
> > To: RV10
> > Subject: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Randy, did you do anything else on the outer border of your headliner
> > other than cut it to trim it up? Do you have any post-construction real
> > up-close-and-personal photos of some of the details that you'd like to
> > get posted on your page?? If so, send them on and I'll put them up.
> >
> > Anyone have any good recommendations for filling those crotch wells
> > around the door gutter (on the inside) that are hard to sand? I'm
> > thinking of just hitting them with a sanding wheel, then laying it flat
> > one angle at a time, and filling with an expoxy/filler mix that will
> > self level enough to get rid of that glass-mat look. I just
> > used a 120 grit belt sander to get the door post areas looking
> > respectable, and then a palm sander with 80 grit. They're looking
> > pretty good now, so it's going to be west system epoxy with filler and
> > then 180-240 grit sanding on those outer areas. Those crotches look
> > like a pain though.
> >
> > Gary S., what's the name of that fiberglass pinhole roll-on filler that
> > you recommended?
> >
> >
> > Advice for the day: Try to pick your headliner material at the same
> > time you decide on an interior paint color. I'm now finding that I'm
> > moving faster again, and it was no time between interior paint and when
> > I'll be probably painting the canopy interior on the non-headliner
> > areas. I'm now realizing that if I don't have my headliner in-hand
> > within a week or 10 days, I'm going to be
> > limited as to how far I can push ahead. Same thing with my panel.
> > I'm getting near the timeframe when I need to rivet my panel on
> > permanently, so I can permanently attach the canopy. You REALLY need
> > your avionics picked out, and panel all done, if you want to make this
> > as easy as possible....so you can cut your subpanel while that whole
> > panel assembly is out of the plane. I won't have my panel in hand to
> > know where to cut my subpanel for a while yet, so I'm going to be
> > hindered by that as well. If I get stuck, I guess it's a good time to
> > go back and install empennage tip fairings, and finish sanding my
> > wingtips....I also hadn't installed that training edge rib in the
> > wingtip yet.
> >
> > This fuselage takes some good coordination of deliveries of key
> > components if you want it to go 100% smoothly, which mine is not.
> >
> > Tim
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
Where's the picture of the headliner????
Looks like a good party, though.....
In a message dated 6/27/2005 9:24:56 PM Central Standard Time,
wvu@ameritel.net writes:
Tim, yes I did mine side-to-side. One other nice minor thing about running
the liner sideways is that the grain of the fabric goes fore/aft, which is
more pleasing to my eyes. Of course no one can really see that except you
yourself.
I bought 6 yds from the same place that Randy suggested - way too much. I
think 4yds would do. Better check me and measure for yourself though. They
come in either 54" or 60" wide. Either would fit from the baggage bulkhead
to the seam line that you're talking about.
Attached is a pic of some of us at SNF.
Anh
#141
Message 28
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Malwitz" <dmalwitz@toast.net>
Jim,
I have studied stability and control over the years. As I recall, adding
weight out towards the wingtips is destabilizing. It could produce an
undesirable amount of dutch roll. I think of a lot of weight in the
wingtips as like trying to get an arrow to fly sideways. There is no doubt
that adding fuel out there will increase the roll inertia which means that
you will have to yank the stick harder to produce a given roll rate. Then
it may no longer feel like an RV. I would certainly check with Van's to get
their take on the subject. It would be nice to have another 10 gallons,
like a C-182.
Regards,
Dan Malwitz
Senior Design Engineer
Moog Inc.
Planning to start a 10 in 2006
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hi y'all...
For those putting in aux. fuel tanks, what are the options and what
are the pros/cons?
I'm thinking of a 2/3 size tank outboard of each main tank on the wings,
but have no clue how much that would affect balance.
What do y'all think?
-Jim 40384, just finished horizontal stabilizer.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass |
OK, some pictures of my headliner partially completed. Also some pictures of the carpeting. It appears black but is dark blue. I bought the carpet material from www.airtex.com . $19/yd. You can send in $3.00 for sample chips.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner trim, and filling fiberglass
Where's the picture of the headliner????
Looks like a good party, though.....
In a message dated 6/27/2005 9:24:56 PM Central Standard Time, wvu@ameritel.net
writes:
Tim, yes I did mine side-to-side. One other nice minor thing about running
the liner sideways is that the grain of the fabric goes fore/aft, which is
more pleasing to my eyes. Of course no one can really see that except you
yourself.
I bought 6 yds from the same place that Randy suggested - way too much. I
think 4yds would do. Better check me and measure for yourself though. They
come in either 54" or 60" wide. Either would fit from the baggage bulkhead
to the seam line that you're talking about.
Attached is a pic of some of us at SNF.
Anh
#141
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