Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:43 AM - Re: Lower aft rivets on the RV-10 rudder (ngautier@earthlink.net)
2. 10:28 AM - Re: Door bonding (Scott Schmidt)
3. 11:21 AM - Re: Door bonding (Tim Olson)
4. 01:12 PM - Garmin 396 - Interesting Link (Mark)
5. 01:39 PM - Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 03:47 PM - Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link (Tim Olson)
7. 03:54 PM - Re: For Those Looking at HID Lights... (Wentz, Don)
8. 04:07 PM - Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link (Jim Wade)
9. 06:06 PM - Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link ()
10. 06:23 PM - Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link (McGANN, Ron)
11. 06:31 PM - Elevator Trim Tabs (Jack Sparling)
12. 07:18 PM - Re: Elevator Trim Tabs (Rick)
13. 07:35 PM - Fuel Tank Nose rivets (McGANN, Ron)
14. 08:05 PM - Re: Elevator Trim Tabs (Sean Stephens)
15. 09:27 PM - Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link (Eric Panning)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lower aft rivets on the RV-10 rudder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: ngautier@earthlink.net
Thanks for all of your replies. I'll pick something that will
work.
Regards,
Nick gautier
do not archive
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
If I remember right Tim, I just used the epoxy in the areas where the
thick fiberglass clothe is and than added the cab-o-sil in the areas
where the two halves bond together.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 9:05 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Door bonding
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Quick question...
>
> When bonding the door halves, do you use cab-o-sil in all areas
> including where you use the glass cloth in the cranium and
> other cavities, or is it just epoxy and cloth in those areas?
>
> Door bonding today. The paint looks as if it came out pretty good
> on the canopy. Man that SmoothPrime is nice stuff. It seems
> that basically you roll it on, and then sand most of it off,
> since it doesn't roll smoothly, but it acts as a very hard,
> thin, body filler along with pinhole filler....and it's
> got a tenacious grip.
>
> Tim
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Door bonding |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Scott, that sounds like a plan. I skipped the bonding
yesterday after I saw the note that epoxy with 30 minute
pot life should be used. I had fast hardner (205), so today
I'm skipping out early to go get some slow (206) for doing
that step. Tonight should be bonding night.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> If I remember right Tim, I just used the epoxy in the areas where the
> thick fiberglass clothe is and than added the cab-o-sil in the areas
> where the two halves bond together.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> Cell: 801-319-3094
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 9:05 AM
>>To: RV10
>>Subject: RV10-List: Door bonding
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Quick question...
>>
>>When bonding the door halves, do you use cab-o-sil in all areas
>>including where you use the glass cloth in the cranium and
>>other cavities, or is it just epoxy and cloth in those areas?
>>
>>Door bonding today. The paint looks as if it came out pretty good
>>on the canopy. Man that SmoothPrime is nice stuff. It seems
>>that basically you roll it on, and then sand most of it off,
>>since it doesn't roll smoothly, but it acts as a very hard,
>>thin, body filler along with pinhole filler....and it's
>>got a tenacious grip.
>>
>>Tim
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
http://shop.jaair.com/?stepproductinfo&productNum010-00425-00
Looks like it might be a very capable portable!
Mark
Message 5
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| Subject: | Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
WOW, that rocks! Makes my 3 year old, then top of the line, 196 look like a POS.
Michael
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Mark
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link
http://shop.jaair.com/?stepproductinfo&productNum010-00425-00
Looks like it might be a very capable portable!
Mark
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Funny how the price "Was" $2695, and is "Now" $2495. Hard to believe
the price "was" anything, if it's not even available yet. ;)
Looks like a very cool way for people with lesser $$ panels to
add some Wx capabilities. We'll have to see more at OSH, but perhaps
this would be a cooler solution than weather on the GRT....it would
even be portable.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> WOW, that rocks! Makes my 3 year old, then top of the line, 196 look like a
POS.
>
> Michael
>
> do not archive
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Mark
> Sent: Wed 7/6/2005 3:12 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link
>
>
> http://shop.jaair.com/?step=productinfo&productNum=010-00425-00
>
> Looks like it might be a very capable portable!
>
> Mark
Message 7
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| Subject: | For Those Looking at HID Lights... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Tim,
my site lists the PAR-36 light for $380, has for over a year (while most
other sites have been charging $595 and up).
BTW, I have sold mounting kits without lights to many in the RV
community. This allows you to use a lamp that you source and have all
the hard design and fabrication work (mounts, lens, etc) already done
for you.
Dw
www.duckworksaviation.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: For Those Looking at HID Lights...
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
These being PAR36 lights at 35W, should be very similar to Duckworks
lights. I wonder how they intend to offer them for mounting options, as
there's no good place for a PAR36 in the tips....still have to cut the
hole in the leading edge or put it elsewhere. So, my guess is that it's
another option for bulb supply, but not necessarily a "total solution"
as you'd get with a duckworks kit....we'll have to wait and see how he
expects to use them.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Check out the news on the front page of CreativAir.
> <http://www.creativair.com/cva/>
>
> Looks like there might be yet another HID option soon.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
It still won't give you anywhere near what Anywhere map will at the same
price.
Jim
-------Original Message-------
From: Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Funny how the price "Was" $2695, and is "Now" $2495. Hard to believe
the price "was" anything, if it's not even available yet. ;)
Looks like a very cool way for people with lesser $$ panels to
add some Wx capabilities. We'll have to see more at OSH, but perhaps
this would be a cooler solution than weather on the GRT....it would
even be portable.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> WOW, that rocks! Makes my 3 year old, then top of the line, 196 look like
a POS.
>
> Michael
>
> do not archive
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Mark
> Sent: Wed 7/6/2005 3:12 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link
>
>
> http://shop.jaair.com/?step=productinfo&productNum=010-00425-00
>
> Looks like it might be a very capable portable!
>
> Mark
Message 9
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d="scan'208"; a="1223528755:sNHT259166400"
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jskorch@charter.net>
I`m sure it is a nice gps, But for $2495 IT BETTER BE!!!!
:)
John Skorczewski
Message 10
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| Subject: | Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
According to current estimates, it is likely to cost us almost $4200 ozzie
dollars by the end of the year (@ $0.66 plus 10% GST). Two screen Chelton
(nothing else) at $42000 - now THAT hurts!
Ron
Adelaide, Australia
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
jskorch@charter.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jskorch@charter.net>
I`m sure it is a nice gps, But for $2495 IT BETTER BE!!!!
:)
John Skorczewski
Message 11
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=RKOLyIERj2IPbCvnoZOYltd6HoU7usfNTGVUq4DMhc7N1+J8gAoYTbJyvDWFQQx9CCR9s/494RTLtKtRsX3K13yPo44ideUaB3mgloxhm8DHgRW/vpChf+ppBHf8Za/CKnKOBFbAx9Vql+Np23W98C3sjLz3zuwL7pIrwLDXmDA=
;
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Tabs |
Greetings to everyone:
I have been struggling with the electric trim cable adjustments and cannot
seem to get them to come out right. If I am reading this correctly, the
manual indicates that the trim motor should be ran to the full nose up
position and the cables should be adjusted to achieve a 35 degree angle
measuring from the top of the trim tab to the top of the elevator. When
adjusted in this manner, the left trim tab will not come to a full neutral
position. Even when the motor is ran to the full nose down position, the
trailing edge of the trim tab is still 3/8ths of an inch lower than the
trailing edge of the elevator. Has anyone experienced a problem like this?
I know that I have been a quiet participant on this list, however, I have
learned a great deal from all of you and appreciate your views and
enthusiasm. We are on a wonderful journey, one that few people have an
opportunity to explore. I have learned how exceptional we all can be when
we have opportunity to create and develop the dream. I have a great deal of
respect for what we have all decided to do together. We represent 1/1000 of
the population, a pretty unique crowd. While I don't know you personally, I
admire your choices and interest.
Hope to see you all at OSH.
Jack
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tabs |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Nose rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Hi all,
Just finishing off the tanks and was doing a final inspection of the rivets
before installing the baffle.
I noticed that the shop heads in the nose of the skin seemed to be much
higher than the rest (ie the rivets had not been fully set). This is hard
to confirm during rivetting with proseal everywhere. Once the proseal had
set, the rivets were pretty solid but were still obviously dodgy. I took to
them with the gun and bar again, and despite the right banging noises, the
rivets would still not set properly. Closer investigation found that the
bucking bar was contacting the raised flutes on the ribs - not the rivet
tail. A change in bucking bar set the rivets properly and an extra dab of
proseal seems to have done the job.
I found that I needed to flute the forward part of the ribs quite a bit to
have them fit properly, so the probability of whacking the flute was quite
high. I guess I'm just a dummy for not tweaking earlier, and not noticing
that the rivets were not set properly when I initially bucked them. Just
thought I would pass on a lesson learned for those about to get there.
cheers,
Ron
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tabs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
There was a thread a while back regarding this. If memory serves me
correctly, one side does not travel as far as the other "by design"?
-Sean #40303 flaps
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
> Jack,
>
> I don't know to be honest, When I set mine up a year ago I don't
> recall any problems. It may be possible that the potentiometer inside
> the servo may be outta alignment. I have seen that happen with other
> servos where you only get half the throw in one drection and full
> throw in the other, make sure the tirangle horn isn't binding as well,
> I recall that as a pretty close fit in the mechanisim. Is it a matter
> of not having enough travel? Are the cables set to the correct
> lengths? I remember being very attentive to details putting that
> together. Short of taking everything apart and redoing it that's all I
> can offer.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
Message 15
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=b5BpwuEsBkx9U5QxgMfiM3sCxrajzJ6krhxZFMYLgPadBm8r9zgt1C4Nr7unGAbA6GV8Chxb2gg7+GbRFTWi/mDyM1rEXQB298ubl+yFGfm2RmuRLCIrK8lLcheiId4EYNOVIFBFfuJomnjPZq+GVOF4Cg6NfNCOz0xCIzqG5fQ=
;
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 - Interesting Link |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the link. I think it will offer a lower
cost route for a very capable VFR panel.
Looks like weather, XM radio audio, SL30 integration
and TIS with the right transponder. That's alot of
additional capability over a 296 for an additional 1k.
Garmin 396 + SL30 would be ~ 6000. This is close to
the price of a GNS-430 without the GPS IFR capability.
I've been using anywhere map for years but I think
this Garmin product is far superior. I think Anywhere
map is tough to use in turb and the display contrast
and color choices leave alot to be desired. Mountain
Scope has a better display but more limited features
and a higher price.
Eric
--- Mark <2eyedocs@comcast.net> wrote:
>
http://shop.jaair.com/?step=productinfo&productNum=010-00425-00
>
> Looks like it might be a very capable portable!
>
> Mark
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