Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:33 AM - Aileron deflection (Rick)
2. 06:35 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Nose rivets (Rick)
3. 07:00 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Tabs (Darton Steve)
4. 09:25 AM - FW: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances (John Erickson)
5. 09:34 AM - Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out (Tim Olson)
6. 09:52 AM - Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out (brian bollaert)
7. 10:11 AM - mt prop (brian bollaert)
8. 11:03 AM - Re: FW: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances (Rick)
9. 11:06 AM - Door Bonding Photos/Info and More (Tim Olson)
10. 11:22 AM - Re: Door Bonding Photos/Info and More (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
11. 11:38 AM - Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 01:26 PM - Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out (Tim Olson)
13. 01:29 PM - Re: Door Bonding Photos/Info and More (Tim Olson)
14. 03:28 PM - Re: mt prop (Mike Kraus)
15. 04:21 PM - Re: Elevator Trim Tabs (Jack Sparling)
16. 04:28 PM - Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out (brian bollaert)
17. 08:05 PM - Fuel tank leak test (John Hasbrouck)
18. 08:23 PM - Re: Fuel tank leak test (Tim Olson)
19. 09:02 PM - Re: Fuel tank leak test (John Kirkland)
20. 09:58 PM - Re: Fuel tank leak test (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Aileron deflection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Hi All,
I know I've seen this but I think it was back on Yahoo because I could not find
it in this list. When the aileron deflects down, what is the maximum degree of
travel? And those who have past this most likely know why I'm asking I'm sure.
The alieron pushrod will hit the hinge bracket at some point close to full
down throw. Without both wings control systems tied into each other (I assume
the stop for the opposite alieron in the "up" position works as the stop for
the opposite in down) there is nothing limiting the throw short of the pushrod
hitting the bracket. I just want to check the amount of throw to make sure hitting
the bracket is not an issue before I close up the bottom skins.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Nose rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Ron,
Not dumb....good tip, I happened to notice the same thing but failed to test my
flutes as you did :D
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Do not archive
Message 3
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=uLXZOWlt9GZHl9TgLR8Ao1NSTmilXFMCohyxPy4fbieZWZQWK8qiX2+xd/swjHr97WosSAtdROasUkmmWG6G6XjXyyZvuHFkMWqbDUVM4Yhm6JbkA5fM1v/Rj1SNpIN3+VLd/1gflWmAYF8MlzY3po2P/AvvNwdnjjWDU1Ie3Vg=
;
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tabs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Jack,
I had the same issues when working on my trim tabs. I
just happened to be traveling to Portland at that time
so I stopped in at Van's to see how N410RV's tabs
operated for my self. This is what I learned. The
right tab is the one to set the up/down deflection
parameters. Set the left tab so it is at neutral when
the right tab is neutral. The left tab will
approximately follow the right through the down
travel. Don't worry about full travel for the left
tab. Essentially what I was told at Van's is that all
the other RV's have only one tab. The RV-10 is nose
heavy so the trim system was designed to give more
nose up only. Both tabs provide nose up, right tab
provides nose up and down.
Steve wings 40212
--- Jack Sparling <jhs_61@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Greetings to everyone:
>
>
>
> I have been struggling with the electric trim cable
> adjustments and cannot
> seem to get them to come out right. If I am reading
> this correctly, the
> manual indicates that the trim motor should be ran
> to the full nose up
> position and the cables should be adjusted to
> achieve a 35 degree angle
> measuring from the top of the trim tab to the top of
> the elevator. When
> adjusted in this manner, the left trim tab will not
> come to a full neutral
> position. Even when the motor is ran to the full
> nose down position, the
> trailing edge of the trim tab is still 3/8ths of an
> inch lower than the
> trailing edge of the elevator. Has anyone
> experienced a problem like this?
>
>
>
> I know that I have been a quiet participant on this
> list, however, I have
> learned a great deal from all of you and appreciate
> your views and
> enthusiasm. We are on a wonderful journey, one that
> few people have an
> opportunity to explore. I have learned how
> exceptional we all can be when
> we have opportunity to create and develop the dream.
> I have a great deal of
> respect for what we have all decided to do together.
> We represent 1/1000 of
> the population, a pretty unique crowd. While I
> don't know you personally, I
> admire your choices and interest.
>
>
>
> Hope to see you all at OSH.
>
>
>
> Jack
>
>
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| Subject: | FW: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances |
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI
Rick,
I think this was the thread from Yahoo you were asking about...
John
#40208 Wings
________________________________
From: Randy DeBauw [mailto:randy@abros.com]
Subject: RE: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances
Doug, the flap in the full up position is suppose to be nag. 3 deg.. Is
that part of the problem or is it more of the aileron rod lengths.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Peterson [mailto:rvator@cox.net]
Subject: RE: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances
Randy is correct, due to design where one aileron rises more then it
falls
with movement, it does allow the tube to clear the hinge brace, but you
really don't know this until both wings are installed and all controls
are
installed. I tested mine this weekend and the tube clears fine.
But I do have an alignment problem with the wing tip TE to aileron TE to
flap TE to fuselage that im going to scratch my head on for awhile.
Doug
_____
From: Randy DeBauw [mailto:randy@abros.com]
Subject: RE: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances
Bob I ran into the same thing but after enlarging the hole some I
stopped. I
think what will happen will be that when the ailerons are connected
together
the opposite side will hit the stop before the rod will hit. At least
that
is what I am thinking. I won't know until both wings are installed and
connected. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Condrey [mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com]
Subject: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances
When I was replacing washers in the aileron mount brackets (page 11
in last RVator) I noticed a potential clearance issue. When the
ailerons are deflected down, the control tube comes extremely close
to the some of the rivet heads on the inboard aileron bracket and the
outboard edge of the spar hole. I talked to Van's yesterday AM and
they suggested that I enlarge the hole slightly.
Even if I enlarge the hole a bit there's not much clearance between
the rivet heads and the control tube. Anybody else run into this?
How much clearance do others have? Finally, anybody know what the
max downward deflection limit will be for the ailerons?
Bob #40105
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just got my Gretz Aero heated pitot this week. Being on his
waiting list, last week I finally got the announcement that the
pitot would be available, first only to people on the waiting
list, then to the rest. I placed my order within a couple
of hours of his email, so I'm probably the first person to
actually get one in-hand. I shot some photos for you all
and posted them here:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/pitot
My first impression is that it's not quite as pretty as a nice
shiny chrome pitot (which I expected) but, if it functions
the way it was said to be designed to function, I think it
will be fantastic. I added a very brief writeup on that link
as well. If you want more specific photos or info, just
let me know. I don't know when it will be available, or at
what final cost, if you were not on his waiting list already.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Cabin Doors
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hi Tim:
I recieved my pitot from Warren early in the week also, chrome would be nice
but hey !! gives that warbird look , anyway have you tried to mate it with
the mounting bracket yet i had to grind at least 50% of the metal down just
to make it fit !!, anyway looks pretty good and the price is right to , i
mounted the electronic control module in the last bay of the wing tip on the
outer spar , worked well with the lenth of wires thatcame with it since you
can' t lengthen them . I am also working on the glass top (what a drag!!!)
Brian Bollaert
40200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> I just got my Gretz Aero heated pitot this week. Being on his
> waiting list, last week I finally got the announcement that the
> pitot would be available, first only to people on the waiting
> list, then to the rest. I placed my order within a couple
> of hours of his email, so I'm probably the first person to
> actually get one in-hand. I shot some photos for you all
> and posted them here:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/pitot
>
> My first impression is that it's not quite as pretty as a nice
> shiny chrome pitot (which I expected) but, if it functions
> the way it was said to be designed to function, I think it
> will be fantastic. I added a very brief writeup on that link
> as well. If you want more specific photos or info, just
> let me know. I don't know when it will be available, or at
> what final cost, if you were not on his waiting list already.
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Cabin Doors
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 7
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? to the group :
Is anyone buying the mt prop ? has anyone installed it yet ?
How does it work perform ?, i am now deciding to put the money down on a prop ,
finish & engine forward kit coming in sept 05 also Aerosport io 540 in sept .Also
not shure about the group buy that i have seen mail on , i know that vans
sells therm also however you have to pick them up at a assembly center & would
probably be extra $ not shure how much.
Brian Bollaert
40200
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: FW: [RV10] Aileron Control Clearances |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Door Bonding Photos/Info and More |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just updated my site and added the latest work....
Door Trimming, Cabin Top interior prep, Headliner, Cabin top interior
paint, Autopilot Pitch Servo, and Door Bonding.
I took the time to write up a bit of good info on a couple
of points, so it might be worth reading if you're getting
near that stage. I got REAL lucky last night on my first
door, and mixed up just the right amount of epoxy almost to the
drop. On the 2nd door, I added one more pump just to be safe.
Total is about 20 pumps per door. Total quantity is about 80-85%
of a full can of 105A/206A West System Epoxy, plus maybe about
1/2 to 2/3 of a can of colloidal Silica #406. I tried to detail
a bunch of stuff on this page so that it's there for reference
for others. Also, I'm glad I went with 206A hardner. 205A might
have worked, but this allowed a leisurly but quick job.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050706/index.html
Enjoy! (and as always, if you have more to add, just send it on over)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 10
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| Subject: | Door Bonding Photos/Info and More |
Nice doggy! Can you get her to hold a piece of sandpaper?
TDT
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Door Bonding Photos/Info and More
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just updated my site and added the latest work....
Door Trimming, Cabin Top interior prep, Headliner, Cabin top interior
paint, Autopilot Pitch Servo, and Door Bonding.
I took the time to write up a bit of good info on a couple
of points, so it might be worth reading if you're getting
near that stage. I got REAL lucky last night on my first
door, and mixed up just the right amount of epoxy almost to the
drop. On the 2nd door, I added one more pump just to be safe.
Total is about 20 pumps per door. Total quantity is about 80-85%
of a full can of 105A/206A West System Epoxy, plus maybe about
1/2 to 2/3 of a can of colloidal Silica #406. I tried to detail
a bunch of stuff on this page so that it's there for reference
for others. Also, I'm glad I went with 206A hardner. 205A might
have worked, but this allowed a leisurly but quick job.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050706/index.html
Enjoy! (and as always, if you have more to add, just send it on over)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 11
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| Subject: | Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out |
If it's internally regulated to 100 degrees, you should be able to paint it to
match without a problem. I think it's safe to say that most auto paints can take
100 without a problem and if it's internally regulated, the paint shouldn't
make a difference.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just got my Gretz Aero heated pitot this week. Being on his
waiting list, last week I finally got the announcement that the
pitot would be available, first only to people on the waiting
list, then to the rest. I placed my order within a couple
of hours of his email, so I'm probably the first person to
actually get one in-hand. I shot some photos for you all
and posted them here:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/pitot
My first impression is that it's not quite as pretty as a nice
shiny chrome pitot (which I expected) but, if it functions
the way it was said to be designed to function, I think it
will be fantastic. I added a very brief writeup on that link
as well. If you want more specific photos or info, just
let me know. I don't know when it will be available, or at
what final cost, if you were not on his waiting list already.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Cabin Doors
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Brian, I havent' tried to mate it with the bracket yet. Wouldn't
it be easier to grind down the plastic on the pitot? I can't
remember which way the directions said to do it. I'm going to wait
until I get back to the 100% completion of the wings, and then wrap
it all up at once. Hopefully that won't be too much later than OSH.
I'll have to see how much wire they gave. I'm assuming you mean
you mounted the control unit on the outer rib, right?
I'm glad the thing came with an LED indicator. I was planning to
add a "pitot on" indicator anyway, but this will even be better.
Well, keep working on that top, I want a few more people to go
before me so I can learn from them. ;)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
brian bollaert wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Tim:
>
> I recieved my pitot from Warren early in the week also, chrome would be nice
> but hey !! gives that warbird look , anyway have you tried to mate it with
> the mounting bracket yet i had to grind at least 50% of the metal down just
> to make it fit !!, anyway looks pretty good and the price is right to , i
> mounted the electronic control module in the last bay of the wing tip on the
> outer spar , worked well with the lenth of wires thatcame with it since you
> can' t lengthen them . I am also working on the glass top (what a drag!!!)
>
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 9:34 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>
>>I just got my Gretz Aero heated pitot this week. Being on his
>>waiting list, last week I finally got the announcement that the
>>pitot would be available, first only to people on the waiting
>>list, then to the rest. I placed my order within a couple
>>of hours of his email, so I'm probably the first person to
>>actually get one in-hand. I shot some photos for you all
>>and posted them here:
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/tips/pitot
>>
>>My first impression is that it's not quite as pretty as a nice
>>shiny chrome pitot (which I expected) but, if it functions
>>the way it was said to be designed to function, I think it
>>will be fantastic. I added a very brief writeup on that link
>>as well. If you want more specific photos or info, just
>>let me know. I don't know when it will be available, or at
>>what final cost, if you were not on his waiting list already.
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>--
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>Current project: Cabin Doors
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Door Bonding Photos/Info and More |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey, that's my wife you're talking about! (Just kidding, I
know you meant the mutt. ;> ) It's a He, but he's
basically worthless. I tried manufacturing a pair of thumbs
for him out of fiberglass, but he still can't use a
cleco pliers worth a damn.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> Nice doggy! Can you get her to hold a piece of sandpaper?
>
> TDT
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thu 7/7/2005 2:05 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Door Bonding Photos/Info and More
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I just updated my site and added the latest work....
> Door Trimming, Cabin Top interior prep, Headliner, Cabin top interior
> paint, Autopilot Pitch Servo, and Door Bonding.
>
> I took the time to write up a bit of good info on a couple
> of points, so it might be worth reading if you're getting
> near that stage. I got REAL lucky last night on my first
> door, and mixed up just the right amount of epoxy almost to the
> drop. On the 2nd door, I added one more pump just to be safe.
> Total is about 20 pumps per door. Total quantity is about 80-85%
> of a full can of 105A/206A West System Epoxy, plus maybe about
> 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of colloidal Silica #406. I tried to detail
> a bunch of stuff on this page so that it's there for reference
> for others. Also, I'm glad I went with 206A hardner. 205A might
> have worked, but this allowed a leisurly but quick job.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050706/index.html
>
> Enjoy! (and as always, if you have more to add, just send it on over)
>
> Tim
>
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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My buddy just put on a MT 3 blade prop on his Harmon Rocket (he had a 2
blade Hartzell). He said it now runs as smooth as an electric motor!
He said it was very noticeably smoother and quieter. It is also about
45lbs lighter as I understand which is nice as the -10 is nose heavy (or
should I say flies better with weight in the back). We are building 2
RV-10's in my hanger and they will both have the MT props.....
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 - Flying
RV-10 - Wings and fuse....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
bollaert
Subject: RV10-List: mt prop
? to the group :
Is anyone buying the mt prop ? has anyone installed it yet ?
How does it work perform ?, i am now deciding to put the money down on a
prop , finish & engine forward kit coming in sept 05 also Aerosport io
540 in sept .Also not shure about the group buy that i have seen mail on
a assembly center & would probably be extra $ not shure how much.
Brian Bollaert
40200
Message 15
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=QL9BJpzilyqGz+nFswoo9mbMNaCyjU6wIk6PQ7dkwSMt5LJt2cd1RXIzg1NhBqLGEwWj1uTvvyeNUiuswTecOknpM1ljsg20EaOGcSkqIECNnR30C9gkC6Cpr70CDCE3csZPCN8HUdaeMSnHPhXRqY5WJVfwSi9ufZZw1m4ZuZw=
;
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Tabs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Sparling" <jhs_61@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the help, I appreciate the responses.
All the best,
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Tabs
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Jack,
I had the same issues when working on my trim tabs. I
just happened to be traveling to Portland at that time
so I stopped in at Van's to see how N410RV's tabs
operated for my self. This is what I learned. The
right tab is the one to set the up/down deflection
parameters. Set the left tab so it is at neutral when
the right tab is neutral. The left tab will
approximately follow the right through the down
travel. Don't worry about full travel for the left
tab. Essentially what I was told at Van's is that all
the other RV's have only one tab. The RV-10 is nose
heavy so the trim system was designed to give more
nose up only. Both tabs provide nose up, right tab
provides nose up and down.
Steve wings 40212
--- Jack Sparling <jhs_61@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Greetings to everyone:
>
>
>
> I have been struggling with the electric trim cable
> adjustments and cannot
> seem to get them to come out right. If I am reading
> this correctly, the
> manual indicates that the trim motor should be ran
> to the full nose up
> position and the cables should be adjusted to
> achieve a 35 degree angle
> measuring from the top of the trim tab to the top of
> the elevator. When
> adjusted in this manner, the left trim tab will not
> come to a full neutral
> position. Even when the motor is ran to the full
> nose down position, the
> trailing edge of the trim tab is still 3/8ths of an
> inch lower than the
> trailing edge of the elevator. Has anyone
> experienced a problem like this?
>
>
>
> I know that I have been a quiet participant on this
> list, however, I have
> learned a great deal from all of you and appreciate
> your views and
> enthusiasm. We are on a wonderful journey, one that
> few people have an
> opportunity to explore. I have learned how
> exceptional we all can be when
> we have opportunity to create and develop the dream.
> I have a great deal of
> respect for what we have all decided to do together.
> We represent 1/1000 of
> the population, a pretty unique crowd. While I
> don't know you personally, I
> admire your choices and interest.
>
>
>
> Hope to see you all at OSH.
>
>
>
> Jack
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Well Tim we seem to be around the same steps pretty much!, Well i thought
about grinding the plastic on the pitot however i was to paranoid to grind
that baby !yes i did mean the last rib inside mounted on the spar , the
directions say not to cut or add to the wires on the pitot so this looked
like a good spot , also easy to get to with the tip off . Thanks again for
all the work on the pics etc on your site !! this site really is the RV-10
UNIVERSITY
Brian Bollaert
40200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hey Brian, I havent' tried to mate it with the bracket yet. Wouldn't
> it be easier to grind down the plastic on the pitot? I can't
> remember which way the directions said to do it. I'm going to wait
> until I get back to the 100% completion of the wings, and then wrap
> it all up at once. Hopefully that won't be too much later than OSH.
>
> I'll have to see how much wire they gave. I'm assuming you mean
> you mounted the control unit on the outer rib, right?
> I'm glad the thing came with an LED indicator. I was planning to
> add a "pitot on" indicator anyway, but this will even be better.
>
> Well, keep working on that top, I want a few more people to go
> before me so I can learn from them. ;)
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> brian bollaert wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
<bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >
> > Hi Tim:
> >
> > I recieved my pitot from Warren early in the week also, chrome would be
nice
> > but hey !! gives that warbird look , anyway have you tried to mate it
with
> > the mounting bracket yet i had to grind at least 50% of the metal down
just
> > to make it fit !!, anyway looks pretty good and the price is right to ,
i
> > mounted the electronic control module in the last bay of the wing tip on
the
> > outer spar , worked well with the lenth of wires thatcame with it since
you
> > can' t lengthen them . I am also working on the glass top (what a
drag!!!)
> >
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> > 40200
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 9:34 AM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Gretz GA-1000 Pitot now out
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >>
> >>I just got my Gretz Aero heated pitot this week. Being on his
> >>waiting list, last week I finally got the announcement that the
> >>pitot would be available, first only to people on the waiting
> >>list, then to the rest. I placed my order within a couple
> >>of hours of his email, so I'm probably the first person to
> >>actually get one in-hand. I shot some photos for you all
> >>and posted them here:
> >>
> >>http://www.myrv10.com/tips/pitot
> >>
> >>My first impression is that it's not quite as pretty as a nice
> >>shiny chrome pitot (which I expected) but, if it functions
> >>the way it was said to be designed to function, I think it
> >>will be fantastic. I added a very brief writeup on that link
> >>as well. If you want more specific photos or info, just
> >>let me know. I don't know when it will be available, or at
> >>what final cost, if you were not on his waiting list already.
> >>
> >>Tim
> >>
> >>--
> >>
> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>Current project: Cabin Doors
> >>
> >>DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Fuel tank leak test |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
All,
I've started the leak check on my left fuel tank using Van's kit and a
water manometer. I have a very slow drop in the water level of the
manometer and have sprayed the tank with soapy water but can't find the
leak. The fuel cap is taped over, I did find a few bubbles from that at
first but the leak persists. Any hints? Thought about imersing the tank in
the bath tub while pressurized. Suggestions appreciated....
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak test |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Can you put a definition on "very slow"....if it's just a tiny leak,
it could be the taped over fuel cap. I think it would be hard to get
a perfect seal.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> All,
> I've started the leak check on my left fuel tank using Van's kit and
> a water manometer. I have a very slow drop in the water level of the
> manometer and have sprayed the tank with soapy water but can't find the
> leak. The fuel cap is taped over, I did find a few bubbles from that at
> first but the leak persists. Any hints? Thought about imersing the
> tank in the bath tub while pressurized. Suggestions appreciated....
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak test |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
If you're already flying something else, or have lots of flying buddies
around, jig it up real good so it doesn't tip over, block off vents and
lines, and fill it with gas. Either auto or avgas. If it leaks, you'll know
it. Using gas won't risk contamination by something that doesn't belong in
it anyway, when done transfer the gas to vehicle(s) that need it. Or use the
bathtub method and give the wife another test...
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak test |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
Remove the tape from the cap and remove the cap. Clean the opeing and use a good
quality vinyl packing tape to seal the opeing. Leave the cap off if you like,
I did. Use fuel lube on all threaded fittings and make sure your not getting
erroneous readings from temperture changes, yes it's the manometer is that sensative.
I had the same indication you did, it turned out that the cap was leaking
and a small leak from the threads where I installed the schrader valve. Fuel
lube solved that, sealing the fuel opeing real well also contributed to sucess.
I was helping another builder and his leak came from the schrader valve
to tank fitting as well. It was a small drop on the manometer just like you describe,
it made big bubbles so if you have a leak and it's small...you can still
expect big bubbles to appear with the soapy water...don't digress just yet.
An area to check is where the forward tank spar exits the tank on the inboard
side. This area has a large void that must get prosealed pretty well from the
inside. This is the piece that holds the bearing for the alieron pushrod motion
transfer bar. I had a small leak at the intersection of the fore and aft ribs
and that brace/spar. I found it with a flashlight inside the tank in a dark
room prior to installing the rear baffle. Hope this helps.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
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