Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 AM - Re: Cleco every hole. (Richard Reynolds)
2. 05:26 AM - Re: Cleco every hole. (Russell Daves)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: Cleco every hole. (Jim Combs)
4. 06:41 AM - Re: bandsaw (Rick)
5. 06:43 AM - Re: Reamers (Rick)
6. 09:03 AM - Re: RV-10s coming to Oshkosh? (Jeff Point)
7. 03:27 PM - A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL (Garey Wittich)
8. 08:21 PM - Re: bandsaw (Bill and Tami Britton)
9. 09:04 PM - Re: bandsaw (bob.kaufmann)
10. 09:39 PM - Re: Ice Cream Social at OSH? (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Cleco every hole. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
Several years ago I was helping some builders with a RV-9A fuselage kit.
I instructed them to cleco every other hole, match drill, shift the
clecos one hole and match drill the remaining holes.
Later while dimpling the holes in the skin, I asked why they did not
drill a hole between two existing holes that where 2.5 inches a part.
Their answer was that there was not a prepunched hole in the skin to
drill. There was a prepunched hole in the mating rib.
THINK!
Richard Reynolds
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Cleco every hole. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Anytime a line of holes have a missing space between them it should raise a
real question as to WHY and you should always check it out. The easiest way
is to simple look at the rivit callout page in the plans. If the rivet
callout page shows a continous row of rivets without the space it is obvious
that the CAD machine failed to punch the hole.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleco every hole.
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
>>
> Several years ago I was helping some builders with a RV-9A fuselage kit.
>
> I instructed them to cleco every other hole, match drill, shift the
> clecos one hole and match drill the remaining holes.
>
> Later while dimpling the holes in the skin, I asked why they did not
> drill a hole between two existing holes that where 2.5 inches a part.
> Their answer was that there was not a prepunched hole in the skin to
> drill. There was a prepunched hole in the mating rib.
>
> THINK!
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Cleco every hole. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Richard is correct,
You will find that along the way there are some very slight differences in one
side of a skin. You neeed to make sure ALL the holes line up before you start
riveting!
Doesn't mean you have to Cleco every hole. Just make sure it is the right parts
and they are in the correct orientation. For me there have been at least two
times where I have clecoed together a set of parts and had to remove and select
a different part because of a mistake on my part.
Flap skins are one of those places where you really need to look carefully. The
rear fuel tank baffle is another. Vans has done an excellent job of making
the parts nearly idiot proof. But I sure have tried!
So before you drill that hole that you think is missing. CHECK the parts. Especially
if it's a part that will require dimples.
And for what it is worth, I too have started drilling all the holes to final size
before fitting. I have not had any problems with alignment. Makes the build
process go just a little faster. The reamer idea is a good one too.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F Reserved
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
Several years ago I was helping some builders with a RV-9A fuselage kit.
I instructed them to cleco every other hole, match drill, shift the
clecos one hole and match drill the remaining holes.
Later while dimpling the holes in the skin, I asked why they did not
drill a hole between two existing holes that where 2.5 inches a part.
Their answer was that there was not a prepunched hole in the skin to
drill. There was a prepunched hole in the mating rib.
THINK!
Richard Reynolds
Message 4
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DNA: do not archive
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Message 5
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DNA: do not archive
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Message 6
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Subject: | Re: RV-10s coming to Oshkosh? |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 7
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=ioc/NUSDR7dsk32dWO9BSksY3CUWMycODjYrpb1madW2jfn7szzDPJzASR9hZBCieIGiWGbxuosYedsy0I0X7pN2EnuDJ1OGYLCW+iRJeV0k7+yBPi8nsjcUW5+4Up4kZ1i2U9SiH4QdQtGqeEBSliTSxt1d+UfhCQOoT6FAk+U=
;
Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
> This Information comes from my own research which I
did for
> my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies
to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the
3th printing.
>
> --------------- ------------- ------------
>
> SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
> building time, by using the comprehensive
>
> "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum
> and
> Composite Aircraft"
>
> This book took over 600+ hours of research time by
> me,
> a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the
> latest, practical information - summarized and
> gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
> like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs,
> etc.
> Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
> Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
> Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M,
> etc.
>
> Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
> * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
> Considerations
> * Corrosion Control
> * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
> and painting problems
> * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
> Paints
> * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
> Steel and Aluminum
> * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
> Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
> * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
> * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
> * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
> Enamel
> * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
> Enamel Types
> Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
> * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
> * Selecting a Paint Shop
> * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
> compatibility
> * Paint Booths and their Construction
> * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
> * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
> utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
> numbers, Application Notes
>
> YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
> costly too, so have the latest "Information" in
> order
> to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's"
> and
> "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration.
>
> Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the
> US) to:
> Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
> 58 Village Parkway
> Santa Monica, CA. 90405
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
Message 8
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
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Thanks for all the replies. I bought a 9" tradesman from Sears today. I know.
Who the hell is Tradesman. Well, I asked the same thing but the Craftsman 9"
was spec'd out almost exactly the same and had less warranty. The Craftsman
was $99. The Tradesman was on Clearance from that particular store (not the
whole Sears chain) for $53. So, needless to say I bought it and 3- 59 1/2" blades
with 15 TPI. I hope 15 is fine enough. Does anybody know. I looked all
over for a variable speed saw and nobody had one so I had to settle for this.
Any questions, comments or remarks about this particular saw please let me know.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bandsaw
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
I'm happy with my 9" Delta from Lowes (twin to the Ryobi.) So far if I needed
a deeper throat 12" would not have really mattered either. Keep a good sharp
blade in your hacksaw for those cases. I had some trouble locatiing a 59.5" x
18 tpi blade, Home Depot does not stock them but Lowes carries them in the stores
in Las Vegas but they are not always in stock. I am on my second blade because
I tried to cut something entierly unrelated to the airplane. One thing about
these saws, follow the instructions for setting up the blade in regards to
tracking and tension. I make a big difference in how well it performs in the
accuracy department. I was also told by Delta that if I cut metal it would void
my warranty, their tool is made only for wood??? I found this out by calling
and asking who stocks fine tooth blades for cutting metal. I keep mine clean
inside and out and it works just fine. Later I did a google and found several
places on the web who sell blades for about 8 dollars each, haven't needed to
order one yet though.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 9
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|
You done good.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bandsaw
Thanks for all the replies. I bought a 9" tradesman from Sears today. I
know. Who the hell is Tradesman. Well, I asked the same thing but the
Craftsman 9" was spec'd out almost exactly the same and had less warranty.
The Craftsman was $99. The Tradesman was on Clearance from that particular
store (not the whole Sears chain) for $53. So, needless to say I bought it
and 3- 59 1/2" blades with 15 TPI. I hope 15 is fine enough. Does anybody
know. I looked all over for a variable speed saw and nobody had one so I
had to settle for this.
Any questions, comments or remarks about this particular saw please let me
know.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick <mailto:ricksked@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bandsaw
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
I'm happy with my 9" Delta from Lowes (twin to the Ryobi.) So far if I
needed a deeper throat 12" would not have really mattered either. Keep a
good sharp blade in your hacksaw for those cases. I had some trouble
locatiing a 59.5" x 18 tpi blade, Home Depot does not stock them but Lowes
carries them in the stores in Las Vegas but they are not always in stock. I
am on my second blade because I tried to cut something entierly unrelated to
the airplane. One thing about these saws, follow the instructions for
setting up the blade in regards to tracking and tension. I make a big
difference in how well it performs in the accuracy department. I was also
told by Delta that if I cut metal it would void my warranty, their tool is
made only for wood??? I found this out by calling and asking who stocks fine
tooth blades for cutting metal. I keep mine clean inside and out and it
works just fine. Later I did a google and found several places on the web
who sell blades for about 8 dollars each, haven't needed to order one yet
though.
Rick S.
40185
utilities such Browse,
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Ice Cream Social at OSH? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I'll host, You buy. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ice Cream Social at OSH?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Randy, a little birdie told me that you "Wanted" to host a steak dinner
for
"all" ?? Ice cream is desert, right? ;) And, guys, if you send a reply
to
Randy be there, in the next half hour, you are invited!!!!
See you there buddy
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ice Cream Social at OSH?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
I like your idea Randy. I know Mike from Cleaveland Aircraft Tools will
be
at the Cleaveland Vendor Tent. Why don't we nominate Mike to collect
the
money at the Cleaveland Tent and let, either Daniel Lloyd (Expedition
available) or Brian Sponcil (Van available) who have both offered their
vehicles, go get the Ice Cream and fixing at the nearest Walmart or
Supermarket and nominate Gary Specketer's dolphin motorhome as the
location
for the Ice Cream Social.
The only issue is the date and since Gary is not arriving until Thursday
it
would have to be either Thursday or Friday.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ice Cream Social at OSH?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I wonder if it would work to have it at a Vendors location on Tuesday
> and Friday. That would give everyone a good place to meet. Also If we
> can get someone with some freezer space in there motor home or with a
> car that can go pick up the goods at a local store. We can all pitch
in
> 3-5 $ each. Mike any interest? Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 3:32 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ice Cream Social at OSH?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> I fly in on Wednesday, Thursday, Fri, or Sat work for me Mike Kraus
> RV-4 flying
> RV-10 hanger flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 2:55 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Ice Cream Social at OSH?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Mike from Cleaveland Aircraft Tools (he's a -10 builder too) would
like
> to see if there's interest in an ice cream social on something like
> Monday night at OSH. (or, another date if a different one works
better)
>
> Any input?? You can email the list, or Mike at
mike@cleavelandtool.com
>
> I told him I'd report back if there was interest and what seemed to be
> the best date.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
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