Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:08 AM - airframe protection ()
2. 05:21 AM - Re: airframe protection (James Hein)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: airframe protection (James Hein)
4. 06:06 AM - Re: airframe protection (Tim Olson)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: Re: airframe protection ()
6. 08:04 AM - Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
7. 08:21 AM - Re: airframe protection (Tim Olson)
8. 12:52 PM - Re: Trim Cable Brackets (William Curtis)
9. 02:24 PM - Re: airframe protection (Chris , Susie McGough)
10. 03:09 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Tim Olson)
11. 03:50 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (John Erickson)
12. 04:01 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Deems Davis)
13. 06:57 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Eric Panning)
14. 07:48 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Mike Kraus)
15. 07:54 PM - Vic Syracuse's RV-10 Flies! (Tim Olson)
16. 07:55 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Mr Jack Sparling)
17. 10:20 PM - Re: Re: Trim Cable Brackets (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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| Subject: | airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm the guy
ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to Vans,and one question
was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can of
corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say was acid etched
and a clear primer was applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french
plane ,I found the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I
found the inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
hugo
Message 2
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d="scan'208"; a="1163222712:sNHT15710798"
| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hugo,
According to the builder's manual, page 5-1, the primer used on the
QB is "Sherwin Williams P60 G2"
Myself, I'm using Alumiprep, Alodine, then a light coat of PPG DP50LF
Epoxy Primer. The Alodine is superior to zinc chromate primers, but
doesn't have great scratch protection - That's why I'm using the epoxy
primer as well.
-Jim 40384, still waiting for the correct nutplates..... make sure your
kit has the K1100-06 .. it should NOT be identical to the parts labeled
K1000-06.
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm the guy
ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to Vans,and one question
was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can
of corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say was acid
etched and a clear primer was applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french
plane ,I found the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I
found the inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
>hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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d="scan'208"; a="1163222712:sNHT15710798"
| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hugo,
According to the builder's manual, page 5-1, the primer used on the
QB is "Sherwin Williams P60 G2"
Myself, I'm using Alumiprep, Alodine, then a light coat of PPG DP50LF
Epoxy Primer. The Alodine is superior to zinc chromate primers, but
doesn't have great scratch protection - That's why I'm using the epoxy
primer as well.
-Jim 40384, still waiting for the correct nutplates..... make sure your
kit has the K1100-06 .. it should NOT be identical to the parts labeled
K1000-06.
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm the guy
ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to Vans,and one question
was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can
of corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say was acid
etched and a clear primer was applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french
plane ,I found the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I
found the inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
>hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
If you don't like the primer they apply for the QB parts, you will be
able to re-prime with your choice. I found that my QB fuse was primed
with their wash primer, but not very much primer was applied, and they
only primed the interior AFTER the cover panels and seat bottom panels
were installed, so there was NO primer underneath any of the surfaces
that were hidden. But, as part of the process, you pull all of those
access panels off, and are free to prime in all areas. My kit is
now fully primed with 2-part Akzo Epoxy primer. Some say it's
unnecessary, and they may be right, but primer is 100% personal
choice and opinion, so there never will be any agreement on that.
Just wanted you to know that while their corrosion protection may
not meet your standards, you can always do it your way.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes
> I'm the guy ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check
> to Vans,and one question was not very comforting I recive from sales
> dptm. at van's,was what can of corrosion protection was made in the
> QB kits before assy.they say was acid etched and a clear primer was
> applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french plane ,I found
> the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I found the
> inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
> hugo
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
thanks for the answer,they say to me ,the parts was primed before assy., inn that
case I thinks was left for me was the unassy. parts and off course the tail
cone w/ empennage,can you apply more epoxy over there protection?
Hugo
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2005/07/24 Sun AM 09:05:28 EDT
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: airframe protection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> If you don't like the primer they apply for the QB parts, you will be
> able to re-prime with your choice. I found that my QB fuse was primed
> with their wash primer, but not very much primer was applied, and they
> only primed the interior AFTER the cover panels and seat bottom panels
> were installed, so there was NO primer underneath any of the surfaces
> that were hidden. But, as part of the process, you pull all of those
> access panels off, and are free to prime in all areas. My kit is
> now fully primed with 2-part Akzo Epoxy primer. Some say it's
> unnecessary, and they may be right, but primer is 100% personal
> choice and opinion, so there never will be any agreement on that.
> Just wanted you to know that while their corrosion protection may
> not meet your standards, you can always do it your way.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes
> > I'm the guy ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check
> > to Vans,and one question was not very comforting I recive from sales
> > dptm. at van's,was what can of corrosion protection was made in the
> > QB kits before assy.they say was acid etched and a clear primer was
> > applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french plane ,I found
> > the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I found the
> > inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
> > hugo
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Trim Cable Brackets |
I went though this last week. I very thoughtfully scoffed at the LP4-3
rivets and went for an-4 solid rivets for look and being painted. I got one
on and really had to work at it, not something I want to take apart on the
next annual. The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets
out weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked much better,
but I still have to take the blasted thing apart next annual and will most
likely have to drill the rivets out. My next RV-10 will have # 6 screws and
nut plates!!!!!!!!!
Noel
Going to OSH in my super cub at 90KTS :>) See you there just in time for
the ICE-CREAM
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets on page 9-15, step 7
?? It would seem like a good place for normal rivets, since you can get to
both sides very easily.
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My kit came with
K1000-06 in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending replacements )
(Picture attached)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I would not believe them that it was primed before assembly.
In my case it was primed after assembly.
If you want primer, I would plan on priming everything once
you get it...assembled, and non-assembled parts.
Yes, you can put epoxy over the primer that they applied...it
sticks just fine.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> thanks for the answer,they say to me ,the parts was primed before
> assy., inn that case I thinks was left for me was the unassy. parts
> and off course the tail cone w/ empennage,can you apply more epoxy
> over there protection? Hugo
>
>> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Date: 2005/07/24 Sun AM 09:05:28
>> EDT To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: airframe
>> protection
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> If you don't like the primer they apply for the QB parts, you will
>> be able to re-prime with your choice. I found that my QB fuse was
>> primed with their wash primer, but not very much primer was
>> applied, and they only primed the interior AFTER the cover panels
>> and seat bottom panels were installed, so there was NO primer
>> underneath any of the surfaces that were hidden. But, as part of
>> the process, you pull all of those access panels off, and are free
>> to prime in all areas. My kit is now fully primed with 2-part Akzo
>> Epoxy primer. Some say it's unnecessary, and they may be right,
>> but primer is 100% personal choice and opinion, so there never will
>> be any agreement on that. Just wanted you to know that while their
>> corrosion protection may not meet your standards, you can always do
>> it your way.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current project: Fuselage
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about
>>> performance(yes I'm the guy ask for real speed).-4 days before I
>>> will give my check to Vans,and one question was not very
>>> comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can of
>>> corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say
>>> was acid etched and a clear primer was applied before assy,it
>>> this correct.?,in my ex french plane ,I found the complete
>>> airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I found the inside was
>>> like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions . hugo
Message 8
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Received-SPF: none (out8.mx.klmz.mi.voyager.net: 207.89.248.213 is neither permitted
nor denied by domain of core.com) client-ip=207.89.248.213; envelope-from=wcurtis@core.com;
helo=localhost;
| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
>The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets
>out weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked
>much better, but I still have to take the blasted thing apart
>next annual and will most likely have to drill the rivets out.
If there is one thing in the tailcone that worries me, its this welded nut. I
have a mental picture of the weld breaking off at the most in-opportune time causing
my elevator trip to be out of control. Im going to take some measurements
and see if I can get one of my machinist friends to fabricate a better part
out of a solid block of aluminum.
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Yes thats correct will probably only last a 100 years!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: airframe protection
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm
> the guy ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to
> Vans,and one question was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at
> van's,was what can of corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before
> assy.they say was acid etched and a clear primer was applied before
> assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french plane ,I found the complete
> airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I found the inside was like
> made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
> hugo
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Then, if it turns out great, have him turn out a couple dozen
and sell them to some other RV-10 guys. ;)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William Curtis wrote:
> >The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets
> >out weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked
> >much better, but I still have to take the blasted thing apart
> >next annual and will most likely have to drill the rivets out.
>
> If there is one thing in the tailcone that worries me, its this welded
> nut. I have a mental picture of the weld breaking off at the most
> in-opportune time causing my elevator trip to be out of control. Im
> going to take some measurements and see if I can get one of my machinist
> friends to fabricate a better part out of a solid block of aluminum.
>
> William Curtis
> #40237 - wings
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
Couple dozen? Might be more demand than that!!
John
#40208 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Trim Cable Brackets
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Then, if it turns out great, have him turn out a couple dozen and sell
them to some other RV-10 guys. ;) Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William Curtis wrote:
> >The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets >out
> weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked >much
> better, but I still have to take the blasted thing apart >next annual
> and will most likely have to drill the rivets out.
>
> If there is one thing in the tailcone that worries me, it's this
> welded nut. I have a mental picture of the weld breaking off at the
> most in-opportune time causing my elevator trip to be out of control.
> I'm going to take some measurements and see if I can get one of my
> machinist friends to fabricate a better part out of a solid block of
aluminum.
>
> William Curtis
> #40237 - wings
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Put me on that list, I'm right at the point where all of this discussion
is timely, just finishing up the elevators.
btw. Thanks to all who offered alternatives to my "pending builder
interuptus". I got my order confirmation letter from Van saying my wing
kit should ship early Sept. so it appears that my fears of not having
anything to work on were exaggerated. The 14-15 week lead times on the
web site and what I was told over the phone are not correct. based on my
order being faxed early July, it looks like 8-9 weeks lead time for the
wing kit (SB). (Don't know if OSH will change all of that, looking
forward to seeing a lot of you there next Fri.)
Deems Davis #406
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Then, if it turns out great, have him turn out a couple dozen
> and sell them to some other RV-10 guys. ;)
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> William Curtis wrote:
>
>> >The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets
>> >out weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked
>> >much better, but I still have to take the blasted thing apart
>> >next annual and will most likely have to drill the rivets out.
>>
>> If there is one thing in the tailcone that worries me, its this
>> welded nut. I have a mental picture of the weld breaking off at the
>> most in-opportune time causing my elevator trip to be out of control.
>> Im going to take some measurements and see if I can get one of my
>> machinist friends to fabricate a better part out of a solid block of
>> aluminum.
>>
>> William Curtis
>> #40237 - wings
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
Message 13
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=slZQI57SO38VobEgAum1Kt2+pdTDAJX9okyMCwV4UDfTjfamPsgp5vUiWcU6s4Ddwk407fJ8XKbNO5ZeO3VzVQBB12Kgz4mcM48DqIOiC4c8lkK+/fN1ZT54CaHn5lRC9pVROn3s3rz+QxtZJZMqZ6+eTQVvu1WKyNJ6uBBKIRA=
;
| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two
replacements from Van's. The new ones are double
welded (both sides of the nut edge) and seem much
stronger. The original ones were welded only on one
edge of the nut in a thin line.
I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating
attaching via nut plates instead of rivets. Van's
thought this was ok when I talked to them - provided
there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
tweaking or inspection.
Eric
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Take a magnet to either the nut or the plate. They are both supposed to
be stainless, if the magnet attaches to one of the pieces then it was
not stainless....
I had 4 of these in 2 kits.... 1 was all stainless and you could not
break it, 3 had a ferrous steel plate and you could bend it and it would
break shortly thereafter... I called Van's, they seemed surprised to
hear this, but had no problem sending me free replacements.... I think
you should all check yours out.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Trim Cable Brackets
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
--> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two replacements from
Van's. The new ones are double welded (both sides of the nut edge) and
seem much stronger. The original ones were welded only on one edge of
the nut in a thin line.
I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating attaching via nut
plates instead of rivets. Van's thought this was ok when I talked to
them - provided there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
tweaking or inspection.
Eric
Message 15
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| Subject: | Vic Syracuse's RV-10 Flies! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
See here for photos!
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/VicsRV10/plane/index.html
Vic just CC'd me on the following note....great news! Also, finally
an MT prop flies an RV-10!
Van & Team---- You did it again! What a great airplane. N64VC took to
the air today, 7/24/2005, for the first time. Enclosed is the requisite
RV-grin photo after landing, and I assure you the grin needed no
prompting! We started the airplane in May of 2004, SN# 40229, and 14 1/2
months, 1700 manhours and 700 wife hours later (yes, she was right
there) we are beginning to have fun again. We used a QB kit, and wired,
painted, and upholstered it ourselves. The engine is an I0-540-D4A5
built by Performance Engines, with AirFlow Performance Injection,
Lightspeed Ignition on top, magneto on bottom, balanced, ported, and
flow balanced, with an MT-3 Blade prop. The panel is dual screen
Chelton, Garmin 430, Sl-30, PS Engineering PM7000CD, TruTrack Sorcerer
autopilot. With only 5 hours on it this weekend ,and limited to a
traffic pattern distance from the airport during those 5 hours, I've not
been able to get any good performance numbers yet. However, at 2650' DA,
climb rates have been about 1500 fpm. We've been asking Van for a 4
place since 1985, and he sure has delivered a winner!
Thanks again!!!
Vic & Carol Syracuse
3-time repeat offenders :)
Message 16
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Mr Jack Sparling <jhs_61@yahoo.com>
Why not bend a piece of stainless to the proper angle
and make a bracket similar to the one on the other
end? The hole should not be difficult, and the cable
nuts could be used for adjustment as well as panel
removal when necessary. Integrity would certainly be
improved.
Just a thought
Jack
--- Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
>
> I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two
> replacements from Van's. The new ones are double
> welded (both sides of the nut edge) and seem much
> stronger. The original ones were welded only on one
> edge of the nut in a thin line.
>
> I have not replaced them yet but will be
> investigating
> attaching via nut plates instead of rivets. Van's
> thought this was ok when I talked to them - provided
> there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
>
> I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it
> in
> place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
> only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
>
> If you build another solution, I suggest leaving
> space
> for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
> easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
> tweaking or inspection.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
This is a good point. It is a pain in the neck getting that thing adjusted
by having to bend the cable far enough to get the plate to not scratch the
elevator. Nut plates would be a great way to go I think, if they would fit.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Trim Cable Brackets
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two
replacements from Van's. The new ones are double
welded (both sides of the nut edge) and seem much
stronger. The original ones were welded only on one
edge of the nut in a thin line.
I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating
attaching via nut plates instead of rivets. Van's
thought this was ok when I talked to them - provided
there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
tweaking or inspection.
Eric
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