RV10-List Digest Archive

Tue 08/02/05


Total Messages Posted: 38



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:10 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (dralle@matronics.com)
     2. 12:45 AM - Rudder trailing edge (John Jessen)
     3. 01:04 AM - Re: Rudder trailing edge (John Jessen)
     4. 04:10 AM - Re: Rudder trailing edge (Tim Olson)
     5. 06:05 AM - Re: Just back from Osh. (Chuck Jensen)
     6. 06:39 AM - Re: Just back from Osh. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
     7. 07:26 AM - New Builder (Bruce Case)
     8. 07:44 AM - OSH 2005 Photos (Tim Olson)
     9. 07:44 AM - Re: New Builder (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
    10. 07:48 AM - Re: OSH 2005 Photos (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    11. 07:49 AM - Re: New Builder (Tim Olson)
    12. 08:21 AM - Re: OSH 2005 Photos (Tim Olson)
    13. 08:24 AM - Re: OSH 2005 Photos (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    14. 08:56 AM - Re: RV Wiki [Was: OSH 2005 Photos] (Sean Stephens)
    15. 09:34 AM - Re: OSH 2005 Photos (Jim Combs)
    16. 09:58 AM - Re: OSH 2005 Photos (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
    17. 10:09 AM - Re: Re: RV Wiki [Was: OSH 2005 Photos] (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
    18. 01:30 PM - Rudder Trailing Edge (John Jessen)
    19. 01:55 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
    20. 02:01 PM - Color after Alodine (Larry Rosen)
    21. 02:22 PM - Re: Color after Alodine (linn walters)
    22. 02:27 PM - Re: Color after Alodine (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    23. 02:29 PM - Re: Color after Alodine (Stein Bruch)
    24. 02:36 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (John W. Cox)
    25. 02:47 PM - Re: Color after Alodine (Larry Rosen)
    26. 02:52 PM - Re: Color after Alodine (James Hein)
    27. 04:17 PM - Windshield Defroster (Scott Schmidt)
    28. 04:44 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (McGANN, Ron)
    29. 05:21 PM - Aero trim (Gary Specketer)
    30. 05:57 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Jim Combs)
    31. 06:50 PM - For Tim Olsen (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
    32. 07:03 PM - Re: Windshield Defroster (Tim Lewis)
    33. 07:43 PM - Re: Aero trim (Tim Olson)
    34. 07:47 PM - Re: For Tim Olson (Tim Olson)
    35. 07:59 PM - Re: Windshield Defroster (Chris)
    36. 08:40 PM - horizontal & vertical fairing (brian bollaert)
    37. 08:58 PM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Rick)
    38. 09:04 PM - Re: Color after Alodine (Rick)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:10:00 AM PST US
    From: dralle@matronics.com
    Subject: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting]
    DNA: do not archive --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com Dear Lister, Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ****************************************************************************** RV10-List Usage Guidelines ****************************************************************************** The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List. You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein. Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result in the removal of the subscribers from the List. RV10-List Policy Statement The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established: - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc. - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it. - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and responses. - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address, aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary space in the archive. - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the web page or FAQ first. - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it easy to find threads in the archive. - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive can not be overstated! - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your response to the original poster. You might have to actively address your response with the original poster's email address. - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large. - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly contribute something valuable. - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing. ------- [This is an automated posting.]


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:45:16 AM PST US
    d="scan'208"; a="65613949:sNHT20073724"
    From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
    Subject: Rudder trailing edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook," and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top. I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set. Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning, but I think it is. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:04:25 AM PST US
    d="scan'208"; a="65615970:sNHT29591220"
    From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
    Subject: Rudder trailing edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> I said "leading" edge below, but meant "trailing" edge. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trailing edge --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook," and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top. I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set. Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning, but I think it is. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:10:47 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Rudder trailing edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> If it's slight, perhaps it will come out when you set the rivets on the other side. I'm not sure what else to tell you though. Who knows, maybe it's hooked in a way that will cut down on the amount of rudder trim you need. Good luck, Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 John Jessen wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> > > I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook," > and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I > looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder > upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge > along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all > the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top. > > I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set. > Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight > bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning, > but I think it is. > > John Jessen > #40328 Rudder >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:05:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Just back from Osh.
    From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
    IF Innodyn can make those numbers, a bunch of thermodynamic engineers are going to have to rework their numbers. And, Williams and Pratt & Whitney are certainly going to be embarrassed that all their slack-jawed engineers and massive research and development facilities couldn't do what Innodyn did in a Quonset hut. Of course, you noticed that was a big IF. Chuck Jensen Do Not Archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. You can also probably forget what their publishing until they put out some real life numbers - they've been flying in at least 1 factory owned 2 place RV for over a year and have yet to publish real HP, fuel burn & speed info. Not saying that their claims are false, just that proof hasn't been published yet. Bob #40105 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. Hmm, if Innodyn is really pulling off 7 gph/100hp it's not looking so bad anymore with 18.2 gph at 260hp. Of course you can forget insurance with an experimental turbine. Michael Sausen -10 #352 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com> Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per HP. I have a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5 per hour. That is the facts. Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need to get high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph and look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Comcast" <kenbpeck@comcast.net> Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !! ----- Original Message ----- From: <coop85@bellsouth.net>o Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. > --> RV10-List message posted by: <coop85@bellsouth.net> > > Randy, > Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine > one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The > other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a > typo. > > Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the > impact it has on your speed. > > Thanks, > Marcus > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw > Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. > > I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I > spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. > What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had > the stick in my hand for 1 =BD hours. The rest of the time it was being > flown by the Digiflight II. > > I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from > N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders > numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken > Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his > thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot > on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect > the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are =BC" or more low > when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap > all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I > have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it > was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will > fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds. > By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power. > The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2 > gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 > gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were > burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home > for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy > > Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw > > RV10-List Email Forum - bsp; s.com/Navigator?RV10-List


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:39:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Just back from Osh.
    I agree, there is no reason they can not firmly publish numbers from their two flying engines. When I talked to the pilot of the cub and mentioned that they are being killed in the rumor mills, all he really would say is that they have told us the numbers and we choose not to believe them. Even Chuck (owner of the company) was being his usual dodgy self which seems odd considering they are supposedly about to release engines to customers. I would most certainly want to hear reports from at least 5 homebuilders running that engine before I would consider jumping on that bandwagon. It's interesting that they stopped building the -10 as it would probably be the single biggest market for them in the homebuilt arena. Again, not very consumer savvy. In any case, I may plumb the tanks for a heavy fuel just in case someone actually lives up to their claims. Michael Sausen -10 #352 wings ________________________________
    From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
    Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. IF Innodyn can make those numbers, a bunch of thermodynamic engineers are going to have to rework their numbers. And, Williams and Pratt & Whitney are certainly going to be embarrassed that all their slack-jawed engineers and massive research and development facilities couldn't do what Innodyn did in a Quonset hut. Of course, you noticed that was a big IF. Chuck Jensen Do Not Archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. You can also probably forget what their publishing until they put out some real life numbers - they've been flying in at least 1 factory owned 2 place RV for over a year and have yet to publish real HP, fuel burn & speed info. Not saying that their claims are false, just that proof hasn't been published yet. Bob #40105 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. Hmm, if Innodyn is really pulling off 7 gph/100hp it's not looking so bad anymore with 18.2 gph at 260hp. Of course you can forget insurance with an experimental turbine. Michael Sausen -10 #352 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com> Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per HP. I have a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5 per hour. That is the facts. Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need to get high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph and look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Comcast" <kenbpeck@comcast.net> Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !! ----- Original Message ----- From: <coop85@bellsouth.net>o Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. > --> RV10-List message posted by: <coop85@bellsouth.net> > > Randy, > Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine > one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The > other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a > typo. > > Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the > impact it has on your speed. > > Thanks, > Marcus > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw > Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh. > > I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I > spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. > What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had > the stick in my hand for 1 =BD hours. The rest of the time it was being > flown by the Digiflight II. > > I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from > N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders > numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken > Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his > thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot > on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect > the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are =BC" or more low > when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap > all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I > have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it > was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will > fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds. > By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power. > The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2 > gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 > gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were > burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home > for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy > > Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw > > RV10-List Email Forum - bsp; s.com/Navigator?RV10-List


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:26:34 AM PST US
    From: "Bruce Case" <pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
    Subject: New Builder
    Greetings everyone. Well Oshkosh was too much and I made the plunge purchasing a RV-10 tail kit. I am customer # 40446. Does that mean 446 RV-10 tail kits have been sold? I ordered on Wednesday and the tail shipped Thursday. Pretty snappy service. Other news gleaned from Oshkosh. ECI indicates that they are much closer than one year away from producing a 540 engine kit. I am already in the debate cycle as the best route to go and leaning towards doing my own overhaul of a 540. Inodyn apparently approached Vans about building a demonstrator aircraft with their turbine and Vans said they were not interested so you may have noticed that Inodyn then trotted over to Lancair where a mockup was on display. I work with Allison gas turbines and frankly the published numbers from Inodyn seem pretty far off the mark. Granted FADEC can make some noticeable improvements but it is not that magic! Well I have now entered the fantasy panel mode for the RV-10 as I fall to sleep, should be an interesting few years. Bruce Case 616 South Madison Street Stoughton, WI. 53589 telephone: 608-215-3776 e-mail: pioneer@choiceonemail.com


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:44:32 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: OSH 2005 Photos
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions and bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since we all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If you have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the Q&A and email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in whatever free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time into it as well. Thanks guys, Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:44:43 AM PST US
    Subject: New Builder
    From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
    Bruce, It does indeed mean that you've got the 446th tail kit produced/shipped. I think that they keep a few of these on hand to ship, but there's generally a wait time on the other kits. Van's also departed a bit from tradition this year and left sufficient staff back in Oregon to process orders during OSH. You'll probably see some enterprising folks put something other than a Lycoming in their RV-10, but it won't be with factory support or endorsement. There's continued talk of a Subaru, Deltahawk, Mistral, LS1, etc. Last year Innodyn was promising that they'd have a full firewall forward kit soon for the RV-10 but apparently sold the plane that they were going to use for development of that. Of all the alternate engines for RVs (all models), only the Subaru seems to have any traction and that's because folks like Eggenfeller have developed very nice, complete firewall forward packages - and the engines are solid. But even that seems to be off in the future "some time" for the RV-10. You've got a while before you need to commit on the engine - just enjoy the building process! Bob #40105 Finishing fuselage, waiting for finish kit. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case Subject: RV10-List: New Builder Greetings everyone. Well Oshkosh was too much and I made the plunge purchasing a RV-10 tail kit. I am customer # 40446. Does that mean 446 RV-10 tail kits have been sold? I ordered on Wednesday and the tail shipped Thursday. Pretty snappy service. Other news gleaned from Oshkosh. ECI indicates that they are much closer than one year away from producing a 540 engine kit. I am already in the debate cycle as the best route to go and leaning towards doing my own overhaul of a 540. Inodyn apparently approached Vans about building a demonstrator aircraft with their turbine and Vans said they were not interested so you may have noticed that Inodyn then trotted over to Lancair where a mockup was on display. I work with Allison gas turbines and frankly the published numbers from Inodyn seem pretty far off the mark. Granted FADEC can make some noticeable improvements but it is not that magic! Well I have now entered the fantasy panel mode for the RV-10 as I fall to sleep, should be an interesting few years. Bruce Case 616 South Madison Street Stoughton, WI. 53589 telephone: 608-215-3776 e-mail: pioneer@choiceonemail.com


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:48:40 AM PST US
    Subject: OSH 2005 Photos
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> How about an RV-10 "Wiki"? TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions and bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since we all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If you have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the Q&A and email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in whatever free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time into it as well. Thanks guys, Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:49:24 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: New Builder
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Cool, another Wisconsin guy!! I'm up by Eau Claire, if you ever want to stop up. That 446 number is interesting....I thought I'd heard 453 and 458 before, so it's strange to hear a lower number now. At any rate, it should be close the the total number sold. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE Bruce Case wrote: > Greetings everyone. Well Oshkosh was too much and I made the plunge > purchasing a RV-10 tail kit. I am customer # 40446. Does that mean 446 > RV-10 tail kits have been sold? I ordered on Wednesday and the tail > shipped Thursday. Pretty snappy service. > > Other news gleaned from Oshkosh. ECI indicates that they are much > closer than one year away from producing a 540 engine kit. I am already > in the debate cycle as the best route to go and leaning towards doing my > own overhaul of a 540. > > Inodyn apparently approached Vans about building a demonstrator aircraft > with their turbine and Vans said they were not interested so you may > have noticed that Inodyn then trotted over to Lancair where a mockup was > on display. I work with Allison gas turbines and frankly the published > numbers from Inodyn seem pretty far off the mark. Granted FADEC can > make some noticeable improvements but it is not that magic! > > Well I have now entered the fantasy panel mode for the RV-10 as I fall > to sleep, should be an interesting few years. > > Bruce Case > 616 South Madison Street > Stoughton, WI. 53589 > telephone: 608-215-3776 > e-mail: pioneer@choiceonemail.com <mailto:pioneer@choiceonemail.com>


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:21:13 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: OSH 2005 Photos
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Yeah, I've wondered about that myself. I don't know if I'm up for that right now though...but perhaps in the future. I have some small worries regarding the bandwidth that I could talk about more offline....like regarding where it's currently coming from. The website allows me to trim the photo size, and do what I can to keep it lean. The email group is good for text, but not so great for files. I'll have to educate myself a bit though...at this point I've only set up a wiki one time as a demo, and then never used it. Good idea though...and maybe we'll see it happen some time. Tim Do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > How about an RV-10 "Wiki"? > > TDT > 40025 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:44 AM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> > > I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone > from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but > here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. > > http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html > > I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions and > bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. > > Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since we > all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If you > have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the Q&A and > email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in whatever > free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time into it > as well. > > Thanks guys, > > Tim >


    Message 13


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    Time: 08:24:52 AM PST US
    Subject: OSH 2005 Photos
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> Maybe we could get Dan Reeves to host the Wiki . . . : ) TDT DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Yeah, I've wondered about that myself. I don't know if I'm up for that right now though...but perhaps in the future. I have some small worries regarding the bandwidth that I could talk about more offline....like regarding where it's currently coming from. The website allows me to trim the photo size, and do what I can to keep it lean. The email group is good for text, but not so great for files. I'll have to educate myself a bit though...at this point I've only set up a wiki one time as a demo, and then never used it. Good idea though...and maybe we'll see it happen some time. Tim Do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > How about an RV-10 "Wiki"? > > TDT > 40025 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:44 AM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> > > I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone > from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but > here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. > > http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html > > I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions and > bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. > > Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since we > all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If you > have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the Q&A and > email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in whatever > free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time into it > as well. > > Thanks guys, > > Tim >


    Message 14


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    Time: 08:56:53 AM PST US
    From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: RV Wiki [Was: OSH 2005 Photos]
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net> I have plenty of bandwidth and space available. Whoever is interested in managing this can email me offline and I could set this up pretty quick. Just need content of course. FYI: I'm also working on a central rvator link farm (since I'm always going all over the place for links). Soon to be rvatorlinks.com (no, nothing there yet). -Sean #40303 Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > Maybe we could get Dan Reeves to host the Wiki . . . : ) > > TDT > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 11:21 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> > > Yeah, I've wondered about that myself. I don't know if > I'm up for that right now though...but perhaps in the > future. I have some small worries regarding the bandwidth > that I could talk about more offline....like regarding > where it's currently coming from. The website allows me > to trim the photo size, and do what I can to keep it lean. > The email group is good for text, but not so great for > files. I'll have to educate myself a bit though...at this > point I've only set up a wiki one time as a demo, and then > never used it. Good idea though...and maybe we'll see it > happen some time. > Tim > > Do not archive > > > Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> >> >> >> How about an RV-10 "Wiki"? >> >> TDT >> 40025 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:44 AM >> To: RV10 >> Subject: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos >> >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> >> >> I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone >> from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but >> here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. >> >> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html >> >> I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions and >> bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. >> >> Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since we >> all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If you >> have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the Q&A and >> email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in whatever >> free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time into it >> as well. >> >> Thanks guys, >> >> Tim >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 09:34:20 AM PST US
    From: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
    Subject: OSH 2005 Photos
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com> Wiki page would be great! Many will ask what is a Wiki page? - It's a web page that has an "edit" button at the bottom. Users - Anyone can edit the page to put up new information or ask questions. If someone wants to be bad and trashes the page, it can restored easily - No damage can be done! So having a wiki page would be great. Jim C #40192 ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> Maybe we could get Dan Reeves to host the Wiki . . . : ) TDT DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Yeah, I've wondered about that myself. I don't know if I'm up for that right now though...but perhaps in the future. I have some small worries regarding the bandwidth that I could talk about more offline....like regarding where it's currently coming from. The website allows me to trim the photo size, and do what I can to keep it lean. The email group is good for text, but not so great for files. I'll have to educate myself a bit though...at this point I've only set up a wiki one time as a demo, and then never used it. Good idea though...and maybe we'll see it happen some time. Tim Do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > How about an RV-10 "Wiki"? > > TDT > 40025 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:44 AM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> > > I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone > from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but > here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. > > http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html > > I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions and > bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. > > Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since we > all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If you > have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the Q&A and > email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in whatever > free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time into it > as well. > > Thanks guys, > > Tim >


    Message 16


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    Time: 09:58:43 AM PST US
    Subject: OSH 2005 Photos
    One thing about you, you always make me giggle. He's probably host it if we buy him some gas. ;-) Michael Do not archive -----Original Message-----
    From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
    Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> Maybe we could get Dan Reeves to host the Wiki . . . : ) TDT DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Yeah, I've wondered about that myself. I don't know if I'm up for that right now though...but perhaps in the future. I have some small worries regarding the bandwidth that I could talk about more offline....like regarding where it's currently coming from. The website allows me to trim the photo size, and do what I can to keep it lean. The email group is good for text, but not so great for files. I'll have to educate myself a bit though...at this point I've only set up a wiki one time as a demo, and then never used it. Good idea though...and maybe we'll see it happen some time. Tim Do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > How about an RV-10 "Wiki"? > > TDT > 40025 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:44 AM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: OSH 2005 Photos > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> > > I'm beating my keyboard trying to get some photos out for everyone > from OSH 2005. So far, I've got some scattered around the site, but > here's a central list of some of the more recent stuff. > > http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/OSH2005/index.html > > I'm also working on the panel section so I can answer some questions > and bury that topic for a while...I'll post links later. > > Bob Condrey also came up with the idea of adding an RV-10 FAQ, since > we all get asked some of the same questions over and over again. If > you have any contributions you'd like to see in an FAQ, write up the > Q&A and email them to me offline....I'll try to compile an FAQ in > whatever free time I can...and Bob is looking at putting some time > into it as well. > > Thanks guys, > > Tim >


    Message 17


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    Time: 10:09:56 AM PST US
    From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
    Subject: Re: RV Wiki [Was: OSH 2005 Photos]
    What is a Wiki? Doug 40372 DO NOT ARCHIVE


    Message 18


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    Time: 01:30:16 PM PST US
    d="scan'208"; a="69177178:sNHT20847572"
    From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
    Subject: Rudder Trailing Edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> Seems nobody has had this "hook" problem on the rudder trailing edge, or at least no one has a solution. Tim responded with a "good luck," but this is about as quiet as I've seen the list about a building issue. Out of 400+ I can't be alone in this! If I am, there should be an award of some kind... I've sent an email to Van's and will follow that with a phone call. Since I'm in OR, and am building within 10 mi of their headquarters, I may actually take the rudder to them and let them look at it before doing anything. However, for those experienced builders out there, what do you think of this as a plan: I, as best as possible, mark the beginning of the bend, which is located at the rudder top, and I think about 5-7 rivets down, maybe a few more. I then start about 3 rivets below this mark and begin to do the final setting using the mushroom set, working my way, rivet by rivet, up the rudder towards the mark. After each rivet is final set, I stop and sight down the rudder. As soon as it straightens out, if it does, I stop doing one rivet after the other in succession and begin staggering. I'm not sure what to do if the bend remains! Drill out the rivets to release the tension? Any thoughts would be most welcome and may be helpful to those who follow. Also, perhaps a suggestion for Tim's pages. No matter the method you use (per plans or as others have done with the length of angle iron), sight down the edge with the edge pointing to the ceiling. Don't stand the rudder upright and look at it with the edge pointing towards the wall. This is what I did, and I swear I never saw the bend until I sighted directly down the edge. Then it was obvious. Also, don't deviate from the plans in terms of partially setting every 5th (or randomly) rivet. I think I know when the bend occurred, and that was when I was testing how hard to drive the shop heads by setting about 3 in a row. I said to myself to stop and continue setting at random after I realized what I had done. I think it was at that point that it took the bend. Although because my sighting method was faulty, I never saw it until I was finished with all 59 trailing edge rivets. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 19


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    Time: 01:55:48 PM PST US
    Subject: Rudder Trailing Edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com> John I will be at the airport tonight and I have a suggestion that worked for me. I should be there at about 6:00 or so. Randy -----Original Message-----
    From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
    [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> Seems nobody has had this "hook" problem on the rudder trailing edge, or at least no one has a solution. Tim responded with a "good luck," but this is about as quiet as I've seen the list about a building issue. Out of 400+ I can't be alone in this! If I am, there should be an award of some kind... I've sent an email to Van's and will follow that with a phone call. Since I'm in OR, and am building within 10 mi of their headquarters, I may actually take the rudder to them and let them look at it before doing anything. However, for those experienced builders out there, what do you think of this as a plan: I, as best as possible, mark the beginning of the bend, which is located at the rudder top, and I think about 5-7 rivets down, maybe a few more. I then start about 3 rivets below this mark and begin to do the final setting using the mushroom set, working my way, rivet by rivet, up the rudder towards the mark. After each rivet is final set, I stop and sight down the rudder. As soon as it straightens out, if it does, I stop doing one rivet after the other in succession and begin staggering. I'm not sure what to do if the bend remains! Drill out the rivets to release the tension? Any thoughts would be most welcome and may be helpful to those who follow. Also, perhaps a suggestion for Tim's pages. No matter the method you use (per plans or as others have done with the length of angle iron), sight down the edge with the edge pointing to the ceiling. Don't stand the rudder upright and look at it with the edge pointing towards the wall. This is what I did, and I swear I never saw the bend until I sighted directly down the edge. Then it was obvious. Also, don't deviate from the plans in terms of partially setting every 5th (or randomly) rivet. I think I know when the bend occurred, and that was when I was testing how hard to drive the shop heads by setting about 3 in a row. I said to myself to stop and continue setting at random after I realized what I had done. I think it was at that point that it took the bend. Although because my sighting method was faulty, I never saw it until I was finished with all 59 trailing edge rivets. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 20


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    Time: 02:01:54 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Color after Alodine
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I just finished alodining my first batch of parts. I expected them to be a golden color, but they came out a coffee brown. I am using PPG Chemfil DX503. Did I not rinse the parts enough? Larry #356 http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/


    Message 21


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    Time: 02:22:08 PM PST US
    From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Color after Alodine
    --> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> Larry, depending on where you got your alodine ..... that may be all you're going to get. Years ago you could buy liquid alodine that was potent .... and you got the golden color. Along comes the EPA and said chromium was harmful (isn't everything but pure air???) so the concentration was cut drastically. So the answer is to buy the powder and mix your own potent stuff. There's bunches of stuff in the archive. What I do with the pre-mix is spray it on the aluminum and wipe it around with a terry cloth rag (which will disintegrate after a while due to the acid) keeping the area wet. Then I let it dry. Hold on, no flames yet! Read the instructions on the bottle! Then I repeat the process again and instead of letting it dry, I wash with copious amounts of water. I still don't get the real golden color, but it's the best I can do. I'm buying some powder and will mix my own ..... and make whatever 'tubs' necessary to immerse my parts. For that golden color, I hope!!! Linn ..... workshop going up! Larry Rosen wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> > > I just finished alodining my first batch of parts. I expected them to > be a golden color, but they came out a coffee brown. I am using PPG > Chemfil DX503. Did I not rinse the parts enough? > > Larry > #356 > http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/ > > --


    Message 22


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    Time: 02:27:20 PM PST US
    Subject: Color after Alodine
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Hmm, don't know about the PPG stuff but if it's the same as the Eldorado then you may have left them in too long. Shouldn't hurt anything just check on them a little sooner with your next batch. The most I leave them dipped normally is around 5 minutes. I had a small part fall off the coat hanger into my dip tank and it was just beyond my reach. By the time I got it out (20 minutes or so) it was a medium brown. Washed it off and wiped off some of the residue and it was just fine. Michael Sausen -10 #352 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Subject: RV10-List: Color after Alodine --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I just finished alodining my first batch of parts. I expected them to be a golden color, but they came out a coffee brown. I am using PPG Chemfil DX503. Did I not rinse the parts enough? Larry #356 http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/


    Message 23


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    Time: 02:29:32 PM PST US
    d="scan'208"; a="1392009398:sNHT23133060"
    From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
    Subject: Color after Alodine
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com> You just left them in the alodine a bit too long... Cheers, Stein. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Subject: RV10-List: Color after Alodine --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I just finished alodining my first batch of parts. I expected them to be a golden color, but they came out a coffee brown. I am using PPG Chemfil DX503. Did I not rinse the parts enough? Larry #356 http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/


    Message 24


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    Time: 02:36:18 PM PST US
    Subject: Rudder Trailing Edge
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> Pose the same question to Kent White "Tin Man" of Tin Man Tech. http://www.tinmantech.com/ Kent gave seven excellent seminars in Tent #21 over the OSH '05 run. He has thirty five years of experience solving these issues and is on record doing the aluminum on the late Jim Wright = Hughes Racer. You may get more mileage on his answer than at VANS. Just a thought. John - KUAO and still doing dirty laundry. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com> John I will be at the airport tonight and I have a suggestion that worked for me. I should be there at about 6:00 or so. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> Seems nobody has had this "hook" problem on the rudder trailing edge, or at least no one has a solution. Tim responded with a "good luck," but this is about as quiet as I've seen the list about a building issue. Out of 400+ I can't be alone in this! If I am, there should be an award of some kind... I've sent an email to Van's and will follow that with a phone call. Since I'm in OR, and am building within 10 mi of their headquarters, I may actually take the rudder to them and let them look at it before doing anything. However, for those experienced builders out there, what do you think of this as a plan: I, as best as possible, mark the beginning of the bend, which is located at the rudder top, and I think about 5-7 rivets down, maybe a few more. I then start about 3 rivets below this mark and begin to do the final setting using the mushroom set, working my way, rivet by rivet, up the rudder towards the mark. After each rivet is final set, I stop and sight down the rudder. As soon as it straightens out, if it does, I stop doing one rivet after the other in succession and begin staggering. I'm not sure what to do if the bend remains! Drill out the rivets to release the tension? Any thoughts would be most welcome and may be helpful to those who follow. Also, perhaps a suggestion for Tim's pages. No matter the method you use (per plans or as others have done with the length of angle iron), sight down the edge with the edge pointing to the ceiling. Don't stand the rudder upright and look at it with the edge pointing towards the wall. This is what I did, and I swear I never saw the bend until I sighted directly down the edge. Then it was obvious. Also, don't deviate from the plans in terms of partially setting every 5th (or randomly) rivet. I think I know when the bend occurred, and that was when I was testing how hard to drive the shop heads by setting about 3 in a row. I said to myself to stop and continue setting at random after I realized what I had done. I think it was at that point that it took the bend. Although because my sighting method was faulty, I never saw it until I was finished with all 59 trailing edge rivets. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 25


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    Time: 02:47:44 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Color after Alodine
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> Thanks everyone for the quick response. Now off to prime the parts. Do not Archive Stein Bruch wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com> > >You just left them in the alodine a bit too long... > >Cheers, >Stein. > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Rosen >Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 4:03 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Color after Alodine > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> > >I just finished alodining my first batch of parts. I expected them to >be a golden color, but they came out a coffee brown. I am using PPG >Chemfil DX503. Did I not rinse the parts enough? > >Larry >#356 >http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 26


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    Time: 02:52:17 PM PST US
    From: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
    Subject: Re: Color after Alodine
    DNA: do not archive Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section --- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---


    Message 27


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    Time: 04:17:32 PM PST US
    Subject: Windshield Defroster
    From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
    Hello all, well I finally received my first ride in the factory RV-10 at Oshkosh. I will type up my thoughts but I was very impressed with the takeoff and climb performance as well as the slow flight characteristics. I also finalized my panel thoughts and it looks like were getting the Chelton system. I really spend some time at their booth and at Grand Rapids and decided the money was going to be worth it. Anyway, my real question is about windshield defrosters. Do you need one? I have seen guys just use some computer fans to blow air up to the windshield. So for all you current RV flyers, is this a problem? Do you need it? If so, what fans have do you recommend? Thanks. Scott Schmidt sschmidt@ussynthetic.com


    Message 28


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    Time: 04:44:46 PM PST US
    Subject: Rudder Trailing Edge
    From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
    Hi John, What method did you use to build the TE - Vans method or the 'angle iron' method? Did you use proseal on the edges? How much hook is there? How much pressure did you use to set the rivets? I've completed the TEs on the rudder, elevators and ailerons using the following method: a. I used the angle iron back rivet setup per Mike Howe and Tim O. b. I alternated the rivets such that the manufactured heads are on both sides of the TE. c. I used drift punches to mandraulically set the rivets on the angle iron in a totally random order. This ensures that ALL the pounding is limited to the rivet, not the surrounding skin and AEX wedge. When using the flat (mushroom) set to finish the rivets, a fair bit of air pressure can be required. Too much time on a rivet and you can distort the AEX wedge (and cause a hook) d. Once the rivets are done on one side, flip it over and use the mushroom set to flush down the manufactured head (not too long) and again in a random order. e. repeat for the other side. I have used this technique both with and without proseal. I did not use proseal on the rudder - it came out fine. I used it on the elevators and ailerons and they came out perfect. I am a first time builder and not a pro - but a lot of trailing edges I have seen have smileys and recesses around the rivets indicating that the rivet (and surrounding area) have really been pounded. I think this is one of the reasons for waves and hooks in the TE If you can't live with it and need to fix it, it should be a simple matter of drilling the TE rivets. If the AEX is deformed get a new one. If you used proseal, the TE may be a little harder to separate but I have heard that a heat gun helps soften the proseal. Drilling out the TE rivets may sound like a major disaster but in reality it just takes time. I mislabeled the right aileron bottom skin and back rivetted all the stiffeners the wrong way round. I had to remove all 56 rivets and redo them - the result was excellent, but it added another 1.5 hours to my builders log :-<. If you can still sleep at night (without worrying about it), you can always put it aside and keep building. It's not going anywhere and you will have plenty of time to research possible solutions. You can always fix it later. Hope this helps a little, cheers, Ron #187 flaps -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> Seems nobody has had this "hook" problem on the rudder trailing edge, or at least no one has a solution. Tim responded with a "good luck," but this is about as quiet as I've seen the list about a building issue. Out of 400+ I can't be alone in this! If I am, there should be an award of some kind... I've sent an email to Van's and will follow that with a phone call. Since I'm in OR, and am building within 10 mi of their headquarters, I may actually take the rudder to them and let them look at it before doing anything. However, for those experienced builders out there, what do you think of this as a plan: I, as best as possible, mark the beginning of the bend, which is located at the rudder top, and I think about 5-7 rivets down, maybe a few more. I then start about 3 rivets below this mark and begin to do the final setting using the mushroom set, working my way, rivet by rivet, up the rudder towards the mark. After each rivet is final set, I stop and sight down the rudder. As soon as it straightens out, if it does, I stop doing one rivet after the other in succession and begin staggering. I'm not sure what to do if the bend remains! Drill out the rivets to release the tension? Any thoughts would be most welcome and may be helpful to those who follow. Also, perhaps a suggestion for Tim's pages. No matter the method you use (per plans or as others have done with the length of angle iron), sight down the edge with the edge pointing to the ceiling. Don't stand the rudder upright and look at it with the edge pointing towards the wall. This is what I did, and I swear I never saw the bend until I sighted directly down the edge. Then it was obvious. Also, don't deviate from the plans in terms of partially setting every 5th (or randomly) rivet. I think I know when the bend occurred, and that was when I was testing how hard to drive the shop heads by setting about 3 in a row. I said to myself to stop and continue setting at random after I realized what I had done. I think it was at that point that it took the bend. Although because my sighting method was faulty, I never saw it until I was finished with all 59 trailing edge rivets. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 29


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    Time: 05:21:08 PM PST US
    From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: Aero trim
    I posted a copy of the aero trim literature on the pictures section of this list. Tim, can you add it to your website? Gary


    Message 30


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    Time: 05:57:47 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
    Subject: Re: Rudder Trailing Edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com> John, When you say you have a hook, how bad is it? Can you put a known straight edge on it and tell us how far off it is. Are you looking at 1/8" or is it more? In the end you are the one that will have to decide how bad it really is. I know that isn't much help at all. Jim Combs #40192 N312F ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> Seems nobody has had this "hook" problem on the rudder trailing edge, or at least no one has a solution. Tim responded with a "good luck," but this is about as quiet as I've seen the list about a building issue. Out of 400+ I can't be alone in this! If I am, there should be an award of some kind... I've sent an email to Van's and will follow that with a phone call. Since I'm in OR, and am building within 10 mi of their headquarters, I may actually take the rudder to them and let them look at it before doing anything. However, for those experienced builders out there, what do you think of this as a plan: I, as best as possible, mark the beginning of the bend, which is located at the rudder top, and I think about 5-7 rivets down, maybe a few more. I then start about 3 rivets below this mark and begin to do the final setting using the mushroom set, working my way, rivet by rivet, up the rudder towards the mark. After each rivet is final set, I stop and sight down the rudder. As soon as it straightens out, if it does, I stop doing one rivet after the other in succession and begin staggering. I'm not sure what to do if the bend remains! Drill out the rivets to release the tension? Any thoughts would be most welcome and may be helpful to those who follow. Also, perhaps a suggestion for Tim's pages. No matter the method you use (per plans or as others have done with the length of angle iron), sight down the edge with the edge pointing to the ceiling. Don't stand the rudder upright and look at it with the edge pointing towards the wall. This is what I did, and I swear I never saw the bend until I sighted directly down the edge. Then it was obvious. Also, don't deviate from the plans in terms of partially setting every 5th (or randomly) rivet. I think I know when the bend occurred, and that was when I was testing how hard to drive the shop heads by setting about 3 in a row. I said to myself to stop and continue setting at random after I realized what I had done. I think it was at that point that it took the bend. Although because my sighting method was faulty, I never saw it until I was finished with all 59 trailing edge rivets. John Jessen #40328 Rudder


    Message 31


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    Time: 06:50:13 PM PST US
    From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
    Subject: For Tim Olsen
    Tim, how much did they charge you for the motor? Is it a zero time or rebuild? Do you have a name and phone number for them? Thanks John Miller 40404 empennage


    Message 32


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    Time: 07:03:08 PM PST US
    From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
    Subject: Re: Windshield Defroster
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu> On my RV-6A I can divert the pilot's heat vent to the defroster hole on top of the glare shield. It's been very handy when the windshield fogs over. I'll do the same thing on my RV-10. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 740 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction Scott Schmidt wrote: > Hello all, well I finally received my first ride in the factory RV-10 at > Oshkosh. I will type up my thoughts but I was very impressed with the > takeoff and climb performance as well as the slow flight > characteristics. I also finalized my panel thoughts and it looks like > were getting the Chelton system. I really spend some time at their > booth and at Grand Rapids and decided the money was going to be worth it. > > > > Anyway, my real question is about windshield defrosters. Do you need > one? I have seen guys just use some computer fans to blow air up to > the windshield. So for all you current RV flyers, is this a problem? > Do you need it? If so, what fans have do you recommend? > > Thanks. > > > > Scott Schmidt > > sschmidt@ussynthetic.com > > >


    Message 33


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    Time: 07:43:05 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Aero trim
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Hey Gary, I can't see the picture anywhere. can you email it to me? Gary Specketer wrote: > I posted a copy of the aero trim literature on the pictures section of > this list. Tim, can you add it to your website? > Gary


    Message 34


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    Time: 07:47:38 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: For Tim Olson
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Their prices were exactly as advertized on their web page. The total package, with the Lightspeed Plasma III and all of the options I bought (which didn't include an alternator) was just over $33,500. It's not technically "zero time" since it's not done at the factory, so it's an overhaul, but with an experimental, you still start the logs at zero. Had it been certified, it may have been a different story. Bart overhauls only to NEW limits though, so the crank is not ground undersized and all parts that were not brand new should be the same as new. All of their contact info is at: http://www.aerosportpower.com/ If you don't have access to the website, let me know and I'll dig up the address and phone for you. Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 do not archive GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote: > Tim, how much did they charge you for the motor? Is it a zero time or > rebuild? > > Do you have a name and phone number for them? > > Thanks > > John Miller > 40404 empennage


    Message 35


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    Time: 07:59:26 PM PST US
    From: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Windshield Defroster
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net> Thats what I plan on doing, installing a diverter from the heating system up to the front edge of the windshield -just like an ole car without A/C. Chris L #40072 wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield Defroster > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu> > > On my RV-6A I can divert the pilot's heat vent to the defroster hole on > top of the glare shield. It's been very handy when the windshield fogs > over. I'll do the same thing on my RV-10. > > Tim > -- > Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) > RV-6A N47TD -- 740 hrs > RV-10 #40059 under construction > > Scott Schmidt wrote: >> Hello all, well I finally received my first ride in the factory RV-10 at >> Oshkosh. I will type up my thoughts but I was very impressed with the >> takeoff and climb performance as well as the slow flight characteristics. >> I also finalized my panel thoughts and it looks like were getting the >> Chelton system. I really spend some time at their booth and at Grand >> Rapids and decided the money was going to be worth it. >> >> Anyway, my real question is about windshield defrosters. Do you need >> one? I have seen guys just use some computer fans to blow air up to the >> windshield. So for all you current RV flyers, is this a problem? Do you >> need it? If so, what fans have do you recommend? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Scott Schmidt >> >> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com >> >> > > >


    Message 36


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    Time: 08:40:47 PM PST US
    From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
    Subject: horizontal & vertical fairing
    For those of the group that are at the point of attaching the fairing between the horizontal & vertical , if you already have the horizontal stab on and tuned & don't want to remove it to do this job , i used a 90 degree on the drill with the 36 degree tap on the slow speed ( and you must be steady ) with oil , worked like a charm. Tim thanks for the great pics !! Brian Bollaert #40200


    Message 37


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    Time: 08:58:21 PM PST US
    From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Rudder Trailing Edge
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> Run a string line down the trailing edge, Van's says to stay within 1/16" of an inch. I recommend playing with putting a dowel under the high spot of the hook which I interpret as a "bow" in the edge. Place the trailing edge with the bow deflection or as you look at it so, "it smiles not frowns at you" on a flat surface such as your back rivet plate. Put the dowel I find 3/4" or larger under the lowest part or top of the radius of the hook/bow. Take your time and work the piece by HAND, slowly applying pressure and moving the dowel as you go. The aluminum assembly is flexible and you will have to exceed what seems to be an amount that would make the edge go the other way to far...hence SLOW. I had a simlilar instance on my flap...very slight. Work the trailing edge with your hand pressure a little at a time a small wood block works well too...you can work it out. For those who have not had much experience manipulating aluminum it is very resilient, up to a point, it likes slow steady pressure to give way, push it to hard and fast or use brute force, it will snap, crack and split. With small pressures against the bend you should be able to work it out, More that 1/4" will take some finesse, post a photo, if your near Las Vegas I could show you the technique, I'll step out of a PC explaination and tell ya....go at it like it's your best gal....slow and easy....little at a time....it will work. Rick S. 40185 Waiting on the Fuse delivery


    Message 38


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    Time: 09:04:04 PM PST US
    From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Color after Alodine
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> Type of aluminum will affect the color as well...as long as it turned brown your OK. Alodine changes the molecular surface structure of the aluminum, color change equals chemical reaction equals your good to go!!! Rick S.




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