Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:43 AM - Re: Re: Exterior lighting choices - followup (Tim Olson)
2. 07:48 AM - Riveting bottom wing skins (Rick)
3. 07:55 AM - Cabn Top Lines (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 08:26 AM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Tim Olson)
5. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: Exterior lighting choices - followup (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
6. 09:02 AM - Re: Riveting bottom wing skins (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 09:17 AM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Bobby J. Hughes)
8. 09:25 AM - Re: Riveting bottom wing skins (Rick)
9. 09:41 AM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Scott Schmidt)
10. 09:52 AM - (=?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?=)
11. 09:53 AM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Sean Stephens)
12. 10:11 AM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Tim Olson)
13. 10:12 AM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
14. 10:49 AM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (Randy DeBauw)
15. 02:47 PM - hugo rv10 FL ()
16. 03:43 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Rick)
17. 03:47 PM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (PJ Seipel)
18. 03:50 PM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (Robert)
19. 04:05 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
20. 04:06 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Jeff Carpenter)
21. 04:22 PM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (Roger Standley)
22. 04:24 PM - hugo rv10 FL ()
23. 04:36 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Rick)
24. 04:37 PM - (Matt Dralle)
25. 04:50 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Jeff Carpenter)
26. 05:19 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Tim Olson)
27. 05:19 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Mike Kraus)
28. 05:50 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Jeff Carpenter)
29. 05:51 PM - (Jim Combs)
30. 06:46 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Tim Olson)
31. 07:05 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Deems Davis)
32. 07:20 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
33. 07:28 PM - seen the light (Robert G. Wright)
34. 07:50 PM - Re: seen the light (Brian Denk)
35. 08:04 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Mike Kraus)
36. 08:23 PM - Re: Pneumatic Pop Riveter (Mike Kraus)
37. 08:39 PM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (DejaVu)
38. 08:54 PM - Re: seen the light (DejaVu)
39. 09:03 PM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (DejaVu)
40. 09:06 PM - Re: seen the light (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
41. 09:11 PM - Re: Riveting bottom wing skins (DejaVu)
42. 09:37 PM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
43. 09:43 PM - Re: Riveting bottom wing skins (Rick)
44. 09:44 PM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
45. 09:45 PM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
46. 09:47 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
47. 09:47 PM - Re: seen the light (Rick)
48. 09:48 PM - Re: Riveting bottom wing skin (William Curtis)
49. 09:50 PM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
50. 09:56 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Rick)
51. 10:06 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
52. 10:15 PM - Re: Cabn Top Lines (DejaVu)
53. 10:29 PM - Oil seperator... (JOHN STARN)
54. 10:30 PM - Re: seen the light (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior lighting choices - followup |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Was just trying to gather final specs for my order for strobes
today so I can bury that hatchet, when I ran across this:
http://www.strobe.com/products.asp?id=60&view=product
Now, if there is a NON-creativeair site, that shows the
AVIPAK, and it points you to CreativAir, I'd be guessing
that the strobe pack must be at least somewhat different
than the standard offerings....although by specs, I
couldn't see anything different from the XPAK604X model
listed on sites. I guess I'll just have to put my trust
in Bill and go that route. If it's a scam, we can scream
about it later. If the cover is removable, I'll open mine
and take photos....and if someone gets the other one, and
you can get your cover off, do the same...then we'll
compare parts and see what's real and what's not.
Tim
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Well at least this makes me feel a little better about my decision. Of
> course the couple of bucks difference in parts still doesn't really
> justify the huge difference in final price but I'm sure it's a good
> product. I will report on it when they show up this week. If I had to
> guess there probably isn't that much difference. Sure the CreativAir is
> probably brighter, but is it really enough to make a difference? Either
> way I would rather not quibble over a couple hundred, given the big
> picture, without knowing for sure.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Wing ribs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 6:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exterior lighting choices - follow-up
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> All this talk about the cheaper strobes motivated me to dig into my old
> email archive. I KNEW I saw something about this before. Sorry I didn't
> jump in with this earlier...it's been a hellish week.
>
> Anyway, true or not, I do not know, but here is an email thread
> I followed a while back. It's probably worth reading....I will
> have to re-read it myself before I do anything. (I really need to order
> strobes soon myself)
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Hi all...
>
> With all the discussions on strobe power supplies going on lately, and
> with the emails I received with questions about my power paks, I got
> some info from my engineer on what makes my power paks (and the Whelen
> power supplies) different from the automotive power supplies that are
> available...
>
> As you may know, I contracted Nova to engineer and build my power paks,
> and so I asked them for a comparison between my AVIPAK and their most
> popular auto power pak; the XPAK604... I can get more detailed info if
> necessary...
>
> "The AVIPAK has much larger discharge capacitors than the standard
> XPAK604. The AVIPAK also charges the caps to a higher voltage level.
> The flash rate is also much lower. This allows the AVIPAK to deliver
> much higher energy discharges to the strobe heads.
> The Max energy discharge from an XPAK604 is 11.5 Joules. The AVIPAK can
> deliver a 27.66 Joule energy discharge! The AVIPAK also has a beefier
> filter circuit on the input connection. This makes it a bit quieter on
> the +12V line and will reduce RFI."
>
> As I know it's a simple comparison, but there are significant differences...
> Whelen's power supplies are very close to mine in power output, although
> mine are a bit more... My power paks have a MUCH more modern design to
> them to include the technology in the discharge capacitors, MOSFET
> circuitry for cool and quiet operation, EMI/RFI Filtering, reverse
> polarity protection, over-voltage/absent flashtube protection, tube
> de-ionization circuit to prolong flashtube life, microprocessor
> controlled double and quadruple flash patterns, and input surge
> protection...
>
> I may be a bit biased, but I don't think you can get a better power pak...
> ;)
>
> Hope this helps some of you that had questions.....oh, and soon I will
> have individual power supplies for those of you that don't like the
> single power supply configuration...
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> Hey Charlie...
>
> Actually that's not exactly true... I just talked to my Nova Engineer
> on the phone and he told me the XPAK904/906 does not have the intensity
> of the AVIPAK... I'll try to explain it... This info came straight
> from him...
>
> Think in terms of 1 quad flash burst to both wingtips at the same time:
> The 904/906 will output about 36 joules TOTAL from the quad burst, times
> 2 wingtips = about 72 joules total...
> The AVIPAK will output about 41 joules TOTAL from the quad burst, times
> 2 wingtips = about 82 joules total...
>
> Although the AVIPAK has a lower "output rating in watts" than the
> 904/906, the flash rate is also much lower which allows more time to
> charge a LARGER bank of capacitors (25% larger than the 904/906), and
> the AVIPAK charges the capacitors to a higher voltage at 550 volts,
> compared to the 904/906 which only charges it's capacitors to 500
> volts... More time to charge, higher voltage, and larger capacitor bank
> directly relates to more joules and a higher intensity flash...
>
> The lower "output rating in watts" of the AVIPAK also means less draw on
> your electrical system, 5.5A @ 12.8V for the AVIPAK vs. 8.5A @ 12.8V for
> the 904/906... Bigger flash with less amps!
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
> To: <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 10:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Strobe Power Supply Discussion...
>
>
> Bill
> Try comparing your unit to Nova's 904 model and all your "alledged"
> superiority goes right out the window.
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> I have contracted Nova (www.strobes.com) to make my power supplies...
> These are not the automotive supplies they sell, they are new supplied
> designed after their Whelen counterparts... They have the same or more
> output than their Whelen counterparts, and are built using modern
> technology, not the dated technology that Whelen and AeroFlash uses...
>
> I currently only have the single centrally mounted power supply done and
> for sale, but the individual power supplies are in developments as I
> write this... I also have low profile strobe heads and installation kits...
>
> My AVI-PAK power supply is $260, designed as a direct replacement for
> the Whelen A-413A-HDA-CF-14, and is $110 cheaper than Van's price on the
> Whelen...
>
> I am working on direct replacements for the tail strobe/nav lamp from
> Whelen, as well as the Whelen all-in-one position/strobe/nave unit that
> goes out on the wingtip...
>
> http://creativair.com/cva/
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 8:54 AM
> Subject: RV-List: re: Strobe Lights
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> Darrell,
>
> Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
> aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
> some hits.
>
> My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've
> had several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
>
> Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible
> as far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows
> FAR FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this
> instance)
>
> Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
>
> Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
> Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down
> the road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a
> Nova power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
>
> It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire
> unit is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It
> can drive 2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about
> $125 for it.
> When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the
> tubes to be appropriate for aviation use.
>
> It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
> pattern.
> This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
> power supplies (A490ATSCF)
>
> If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
> provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
>
> I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply
> (either Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
>
> By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen
> sponsored airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is
> powered by several School Bus strobe power supplies.
>
> Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have
> you ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios
> than we do.
> Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
> grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any
> power supply.
>
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >
> > Thanks for the Strobes N' More Reminder.
> >
> > Just ordered up two strobes for the wingtips at $17.99 each...
> > <http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/32/2191.htm?949>
> >
> > Compared to what looks like the "exact" same strobe from CreativeAir
> > at $40 each?
> ><http://www.creativair.com/cva/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=3
> > 8>
> >
> > Geesh, that's some markup.
> >
> > -Sean #40303
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > William Curtis wrote:
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen
> >> >
> >> >Anh,
> >> >Which kit did you use? The 60 watt 4 head X-Pack kit? (except for
> >> >the mounting bracket it looks just like the creative air system).
> >> >Are you using the Whelen tail strobe/position light in the tail?
> >>
> >> Im going with the X-Pack 604. Ive ordered my wiring and strobe
> >> bulbs from them. Ill order the power supply shortly. The rear
> >> combination nav light and strobe bulb I ordered from Vans.
> >>
> >> After watching the planes depart OSH last week, Ive decided that I
> >> want the wing strobe lights to be outside the wingtip cutout and thus
> >> separate from the navigation light. When they are placed in the
> >> wingtip cutout, they are not visible from the rear. I know the single
> >> rear strobe bulb is facing rear but I found the planes that had the
> >> wingtip strobe bulbs visible from the rear were much easier to see
> >> than those that just had the single tail mounted bulb.
> >>
> >> I picked up a pair (both Red and Green) of navigation lights (no
> >> bulb) from B&B aircraft supply for $75. These will go inside the
> >> wingtip cutout. Ill get lens covers for the strobe bulbs and mount
> >> them on the side of the wingtips.
> >>
> >> William Curtis
> >> #40237 - wings
> >> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> >
>
>
>
> ====================================
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> bsp;
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Riveting bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
What has everyone done to ease the riveting of the bottom wing skins? Is it best
to place the wing vertical in the stand and work from the floor to reach the
farthest away rivets? I can't see how you could get into the rear spar with the
wing flat on the bench. Any hints and suggestions? Did anyone manage to do
it solo?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe lines where
the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area. The drawings don't
have any measurements in ths area either.
Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not, does anybody
have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
Thanks
Bob #40105
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cabn Top Lines |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Bob,
You're catching up again...
I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones
in some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on
my site, you can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind
of just went by the drawings as best I could.
This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking
on yours that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll
fill in a lot of it during the windshield install I think
anyway. I haven't yet installed my windshield....just
reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so YMMV.
(for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the
finishing kit?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe lines where
the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area. The drawings don't
have any measurements in ths area either.
>
> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not, does anybody
have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob #40105
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior lighting choices - followup |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
When you look at this website, it is Nova's website, so of course they
would be pushing Creative, as the only seller they have currently. I
know Bill and trust his product. I do not however see the value in
paying more for a power supply because it has AVIATION in it. Granted if
you look at the description it looks like it does put out more power,
but you are paying for it at a premium.
For me I am looking at the Able2 products, these are the strobes they
use for emergency vehicles. I have found a site
http://www.strobe-direct.com/index.htm that carries all strobe makers,
including Whelen. They have allot of kits, and I would recommend you at
least look at them before you commit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exterior lighting choices - followup
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Was just trying to gather final specs for my order for strobes
today so I can bury that hatchet, when I ran across this:
http://www.strobe.com/products.asp?id=60&view=product
Now, if there is a NON-creativeair site, that shows the
AVIPAK, and it points you to CreativAir, I'd be guessing
that the strobe pack must be at least somewhat different
than the standard offerings....although by specs, I
couldn't see anything different from the XPAK604X model
listed on sites. I guess I'll just have to put my trust
in Bill and go that route. If it's a scam, we can scream
about it later. If the cover is removable, I'll open mine
and take photos....and if someone gets the other one, and
you can get your cover off, do the same...then we'll
compare parts and see what's real and what's not.
Tim
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Well at least this makes me feel a little better about my decision.
Of
> course the couple of bucks difference in parts still doesn't really
> justify the huge difference in final price but I'm sure it's a good
> product. I will report on it when they show up this week. If I had
to
> guess there probably isn't that much difference. Sure the CreativAir
is
> probably brighter, but is it really enough to make a difference?
Either
> way I would rather not quibble over a couple hundred, given the big
> picture, without knowing for sure.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Wing ribs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 6:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exterior lighting choices - follow-up
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> All this talk about the cheaper strobes motivated me to dig into my
old
> email archive. I KNEW I saw something about this before. Sorry I
didn't
> jump in with this earlier...it's been a hellish week.
>
> Anyway, true or not, I do not know, but here is an email thread
> I followed a while back. It's probably worth reading....I will
> have to re-read it myself before I do anything. (I really need to
order
> strobes soon myself)
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Hi all...
>
> With all the discussions on strobe power supplies going on lately, and
> with the emails I received with questions about my power paks, I got
> some info from my engineer on what makes my power paks (and the Whelen
> power supplies) different from the automotive power supplies that are
> available...
>
> As you may know, I contracted Nova to engineer and build my power
paks,
> and so I asked them for a comparison between my AVIPAK and their most
> popular auto power pak; the XPAK604... I can get more detailed info
if
> necessary...
>
> "The AVIPAK has much larger discharge capacitors than the standard
> XPAK604. The AVIPAK also charges the caps to a higher voltage level.
> The flash rate is also much lower. This allows the AVIPAK to deliver
> much higher energy discharges to the strobe heads.
> The Max energy discharge from an XPAK604 is 11.5 Joules. The AVIPAK
can
> deliver a 27.66 Joule energy discharge! The AVIPAK also has a beefier
> filter circuit on the input connection. This makes it a bit quieter on
> the +12V line and will reduce RFI."
>
> As I know it's a simple comparison, but there are significant
differences...
> Whelen's power supplies are very close to mine in power output,
although
> mine are a bit more... My power paks have a MUCH more modern design
to
> them to include the technology in the discharge capacitors, MOSFET
> circuitry for cool and quiet operation, EMI/RFI Filtering, reverse
> polarity protection, over-voltage/absent flashtube protection, tube
> de-ionization circuit to prolong flashtube life, microprocessor
> controlled double and quadruple flash patterns, and input surge
> protection...
>
> I may be a bit biased, but I don't think you can get a better power
pak...
> ;)
>
> Hope this helps some of you that had questions.....oh, and soon I will
> have individual power supplies for those of you that don't like the
> single power supply configuration...
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
> Hey Charlie...
>
> Actually that's not exactly true... I just talked to my Nova Engineer
> on the phone and he told me the XPAK904/906 does not have the
intensity
> of the AVIPAK... I'll try to explain it... This info came straight
> from him...
>
> Think in terms of 1 quad flash burst to both wingtips at the same
time:
> The 904/906 will output about 36 joules TOTAL from the quad burst,
times
> 2 wingtips = about 72 joules total...
> The AVIPAK will output about 41 joules TOTAL from the quad burst,
times
> 2 wingtips = about 82 joules total...
>
> Although the AVIPAK has a lower "output rating in watts" than the
> 904/906, the flash rate is also much lower which allows more time to
> charge a LARGER bank of capacitors (25% larger than the 904/906), and
> the AVIPAK charges the capacitors to a higher voltage at 550 volts,
> compared to the 904/906 which only charges it's capacitors to 500
> volts... More time to charge, higher voltage, and larger capacitor
bank
> directly relates to more joules and a higher intensity flash...
>
> The lower "output rating in watts" of the AVIPAK also means less draw
on
> your electrical system, 5.5A @ 12.8V for the AVIPAK vs. 8.5A @ 12.8V
for
> the 904/906... Bigger flash with less amps!
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
> To: <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 10:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Strobe Power Supply Discussion...
>
>
> Bill
> Try comparing your unit to Nova's 904 model and all your "alledged"
> superiority goes right out the window.
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> I have contracted Nova (www.strobes.com) to make my power supplies...
> These are not the automotive supplies they sell, they are new supplied
> designed after their Whelen counterparts... They have the same or
more
> output than their Whelen counterparts, and are built using modern
> technology, not the dated technology that Whelen and AeroFlash uses...
>
> I currently only have the single centrally mounted power supply done
and
> for sale, but the individual power supplies are in developments as I
> write this... I also have low profile strobe heads and installation
kits...
>
> My AVI-PAK power supply is $260, designed as a direct replacement for
> the Whelen A-413A-HDA-CF-14, and is $110 cheaper than Van's price on
the
> Whelen...
>
> I am working on direct replacements for the tail strobe/nav lamp from
> Whelen, as well as the Whelen all-in-one position/strobe/nave unit
that
> goes out on the wingtip...
>
> http://creativair.com/cva/
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 8:54 AM
> Subject: RV-List: re: Strobe Lights
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> Darrell,
>
> Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for
experimental
> aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll
get
> some hits.
>
> My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen.
I've
> had several off the record conversations with Whelen people about
this.
>
> Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as
visible
> as far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that
knows
> FAR FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this
> instance)
>
> Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a
Joule.
>
> Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality
vendor.
> Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down
> the road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have
a
> Nova power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
>
> It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The
entire
> unit is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof.
It
> can drive 2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid
about
> $125 for it.
> When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the
> tubes to be appropriate for aviation use.
>
> It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an
alternating
> pattern.
> This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip
whelen
> power supplies (A490ATSCF)
>
> If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
> provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
>
> I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply
> (either Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
>
> By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen
> sponsored airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is
> powered by several School Bus strobe power supplies.
>
> Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy".
Have
> you ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios
> than we do.
> Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
> grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any
> power supply.
>
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >
> > Thanks for the Strobes N' More Reminder.
> >
> > Just ordered up two strobes for the wingtips at $17.99 each...
> > <http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/32/2191.htm?949>
> >
> > Compared to what looks like the "exact" same strobe from
CreativeAir
> > at $40 each?
>
><http://www.creativair.com/cva/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=3
> > 8>
> >
> > Geesh, that's some markup.
> >
> > -Sean #40303
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > William Curtis wrote:
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen
> >> >
> >> >Anh,
> >> >Which kit did you use? The 60 watt 4 head X-Pack kit? (except for
> >> >the mounting bracket it looks just like the creative air system).
> >> >Are you using the Whelen tail strobe/position light in the tail?
> >>
> >> I'm going with the X-Pack 604. I've ordered my wiring and strobe
> >> bulbs from them. I'll order the power supply shortly. The rear
> >> combination nav light and strobe bulb I ordered from Vans.
> >>
> >> After watching the planes depart OSH last week, I've decided that
I
> >> want the wing strobe lights to be outside the wingtip cutout and
thus
> >> separate from the navigation light. When they are placed in the
> >> wingtip cutout, they are not visible from the rear. I know the
single
> >> rear strobe bulb is facing rear but I found the planes that had
the
> >> wingtip strobe bulbs visible from the rear were much easier to see
> >> than those that just had the single tail mounted bulb.
> >>
> >> I picked up a pair (both Red and Green) of navigation lights (no
> >> bulb) from B&B aircraft supply for $75. These will go inside the
> >> wingtip cutout. I'll get lens covers for the strobe bulbs and
mount
> >> them on the side of the wingtips.
> >>
> >> William Curtis
> >> #40237 - wings
> >> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> >
>
>
>
> ====================================
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> bsp;
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Riveting bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I would attempt to do it solo unless you like lots of smiles. I have
done my RV-9 wings on a table and RV-7 wings in the stand. I found it
much easier to do when they are mounted in the h stand.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting bottom wing skins
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
What has everyone done to ease the riveting of the bottom wing skins? Is
it best to place the wing vertical in the stand and work from the floor
to reach the farthest away rivets? I can't see how you could get into
the rear spar with the wing flat on the bench. Any hints and
suggestions? Did anyone manage to do it solo?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 7
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Bob,
Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
area. One was me.
Bobby Hughes
40116 (Fus)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Bob,
You're catching up again...
I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
drawings as best I could.
This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it during
the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
YMMV.
(for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob #40105
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Riveting bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Thanks Ray,
I assume you meant "wouldn't" do it solo. I had the same thought as I stared at
the wings last night and looked at my arm vs. the length of the reach to the
rear spar, first time I wished I had skinny arms, (skinny anything ;0)
Bob K, Droopy Erickson....are you free this weekend? Both wings are ready to go.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 9
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
The e-glass is not included in the finishing kit Tim. We got some from
Spruce in a 4" width and cut it to the widths specified in the drawings.
I believe it is 7-9oz. cloth.
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/518426/2/22210526/Large
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Bob,
You're catching up again...
I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones
in some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on
my site, you can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind
of just went by the drawings as best I could.
This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking
on yours that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll
fill in a lot of it during the windshield install I think
anyway. I haven't yet installed my windshield....just
reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so YMMV.
(for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the
finishing kit?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob #40105
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
Message 10
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: =?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?=
<Seipel@seznam.cz>
On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and aft center
sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they don't call out the
bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to use the actual spar attach bolts.
So does anyone have handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need
to use? Or is there some other/better way to do this?
Thanks,
PJ
#40032
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cabn Top Lines |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I've added a page to the Wiki that shows a couple pictures Brian B. sent
to the list a while back which may help, but not sure if these are the
lines you are talking about.
<http://www.rv10wiki.com/index.php?title=Top_Cut_Lines>
-Sean #40303
Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
> drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
> area. One was me.
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 (Fus)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> You're catching up again...
>
> I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
> some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
> can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
> drawings as best I could.
>
> This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
>
> Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
> that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it during
> the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
> windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
> YMMV.
> (for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
>
> Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
>>
> lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
> The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
>> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
>>
> does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>> Bob
>> --------------------------
>> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cabn Top Lines |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's what I was afraid of....looks like I'll have to update
my non-included parts list again today....dang I hate it when that
happens!
There's just no rhyme or reason to some of the things that aren't
included... (page is now updated)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> The e-glass is not included in the finishing kit Tim. We got some from
> Spruce in a 4" width and cut it to the widths specified in the drawings.
>
> I believe it is 7-9oz. cloth.
>
> http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/518426/2/22210526/Large
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 9:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> You're catching up again...
>
> I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones
> in some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on
> my site, you can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind
> of just went by the drawings as best I could.
>
> This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
>
> Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking
> on yours that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll
> fill in a lot of it during the windshield install I think
> anyway. I haven't yet installed my windshield....just
> reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so YMMV.
> (for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
>
> Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the
> finishing kit?
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>>I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
>
> lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
> The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
>>Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
>
> does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Bob #40105
>>
>>Bob
>>--------------------------
>>Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
You don't see that email domain every day . . .
Where are you building that thing?
TDT
40025
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 1stLt Seipel,
Patrick J.
Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
sections?
--> RV10-List message posted by: =?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?=
<Seipel@seznam.cz>
On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and aft center
sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they don't call out the
bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to use the actual spar attach bolts.
So does anyone have handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need
to use? Or is there some other/better way to do this?
Thanks,
PJ
#40032
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I just went to Lowes. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of 1stLt Seipel,
Patrick J.
Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
sections?
--> RV10-List message posted by:
=?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?= <Seipel@seznam.cz>
On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and
aft center sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they
don't call out the bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to use the
actual spar attach bolts. So does anyone have handy the sizes of
hardware store bolts that I would need to use? Or is there some
other/better way to do this?
Thanks,
PJ
#40032
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Hi, I expecting the shipp.of the tail cone from van's in the next week,can some
body recently complete these task remember what need to be ordered in order to
assy .and it is not come with the kit,in the plans I have its not mention about
tail ligths,and for last ,how many clecos do I need to order and what size
, to start with my plane.thanks ,hugo
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Bare minimum would be 500 3/32 clecos and 100 1/8 clecos, I think either Avery
or Cleaveland sells an empennage only tool kit that should work fine. I would
not worry about lights just yet, plenty of time to order those. You should be
able to get through most of the kit with plenty of lead time to order extras like
fiberglass cloth and resin. Go to your local body shop supply and get some
red scotchbrite pads, green one from home depot work OK too. Your best bet it
to order a tool kit for Avery or Cleaveland...I pieced mine together and know
I spent at least $200 more than if I just went for the kit. Time is now to pick
your primer if your going that way and to decide if your going to alodine parts.
I assume you already have a bench grinder, drill press, hack saw or bandsaw,
vice, air compressor? Aircraft Spruce ships pretty fast so your only looing
at a few days to get stuff from them. The kit is VERY complete, you will find
a bundle of 4" x 12" sheets of aluminum in various thicknesses, use them to
get a feel for drilling, dimpling deburring and stuff like that.
Read through the plans, pickup last months and this months copy of Kitplanes, Dan
Checkoway does a nice job of explaining the process of building and your right
at the point where the information he is writing about is most valuable. You
will find that if you can read the plans, figure out what parts are what and
can fabricate small aluminum pieces you should not have any trouble.....Read
twice, drill and or cut once. The first tip is to mark the VS skins for the holes
you DON'T dimple...this is where fairings attach. look out for "drill in
assembly" notes...very important. Study Van's manual for advice on how to deburr,
rivet and general building skills. Experiment with your rivet gn before working
on the real thing and find out your optimum air pressures for each type,
length and diameter. And oh yeah...have some fun.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I'm actually building it here in the good old USA. But my wife is
Czech. (and yes, I am already thinking about how I'm going to fly it
over there to visit her family...)
PJ
40032
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
>You don't see that email domain every day . . .
>
>Where are you building that thing?
>
>TDT
>40025
>
>do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 1stLt Seipel,
>Patrick J.
>Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 12:50 PM
>To: RV10-List@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
>sections?
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: =?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?=
<Seipel@seznam.cz>
>
>On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and aft center
sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they don't call out
the bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to use the actual spar attach bolts.
So does anyone have handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need
to use? Or is there some other/better way to do this?
>
> Thanks,
> PJ
> #40032
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Robert <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Chech Republic???
--- Tim Dawson-Townsend <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim
> Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> You don't see that email domain every day . . .
>
> Where are you building that thing?
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
> do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of 1stLt Seipel,
> Patrick J.
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 12:50 PM
> To: RV10-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the
> fwd and aft center
> sections?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by:
>
=?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?> <Seipel@seznam.cz>
>
> On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you
> bolting together the fwd and aft center
> sections with spacers in between. As far as I
> can see, they don't call out the bolts, and I'm
> pretty sure I don't want to use the actual spar
> attach bolts. So does anyone have handy the
> sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need
> to use? Or is there some other/better way to do
> this?
>
> Thanks,
> PJ
> #40032
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: LarryRosen@comcast.net
The empennage kit is very complete. What you need now are the tools. Avery or Cleaveland are good sources for tools and they both support us RV builders. Brown tool company is another good source. If you want to a recommendation on which tools to get from Avery and which to get from Cleaveland look here <http://home.comcast.net/~rv10pilot/Construct/tools/Tools/index.html>.
When you get to the tail cone section, which will be a ways out, you should install
and deceide on a static port and rudder cable fairings, both of which you
can find a lot of information on in the archives.
You need to decide in whether to alodine, prime etc. the parts.
You should also find a local builder, eaa tech advisor or attend a builders workshop
to help you get started. IMHO a builders workshop is the way to go. Not
necessary, but will speed up the learning process, and well worth the investment.
Larry Rosen
http://home.comcast.net/~rv10pilot/index.html
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hi, I expecting the shipp.of the tail cone from van's in the next week,can some
> body recently complete these task remember what need to be ordered in order to
> assy .and it is not come with the kit,in the plans I have its not mention about
> tail ligths,and for last ,how many clecos do I need to order and what size ,
to
> start with my plane.thanks ,hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Hi Hugo,
I've just about finished the tail cone. It took between 800 and
1,000 #40 Cleco's and 200 to 300 #30's. A 4 x 8 work bench, two saw
horses and all the tools you see listed in the RV Tool kits listed at
Avery or any of the other tool vendors. There's a special bucking
bar required (you can make it or buy it from Avery) and an extra
large C-Frame dimpler (or the DRDT-2 dimpler... fantastic... if you
can afford it). Also, a table top sander, drill press and band saw
make life a lot easier.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 2:44 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
<gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hi, I expecting the shipp.of the tail cone from van's in the next
> week,can some body recently complete these task remember what need
> to be ordered in order to assy .and it is not come with the kit,in
> the plans I have its not mention about tail ligths,and for
> last ,how many clecos do I need to order and what size , to start
> with my plane.thanks ,hugo
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
PJ, is your wife by chance a flight attendant with United?
----- Original Message -----
From: PJ Seipel<mailto:seipel@seznam.cz>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections?
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz<mailto:seipel@seznam.cz>>
I'm actually building it here in the good old USA. But my wife is
Czech. (and yes, I am already thinking about how I'm going to fly it
over there to visit her family...)
PJ
40032
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com<mailto:Tdawson@Avidyne.com>>
>
>
>You don't see that email domain every day . . .
>
>Where are you building that thing?
>
>TDT
>40025
>
>do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 1stLt Seipel,
>Patrick J.
>Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 12:50 PM
>To: RV10-List@matronics.com<mailto:RV10-List@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
>sections?
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: ?us-ascii?Q?1stLt20Seipel2C20Patrick20J2E? <Seipel@seznam.cz<mailto:Seipel@seznam.cz>>
>
>On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and aft center
sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they don't call out
the bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to use the actual spar attach bolts.
So does anyone have handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would
need to use? Or is there some other/better way to do this?
>
> Thanks,
> PJ
> #40032
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
igator?RV10-List>
Message 22
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a mention about
proseal,it is come with the kit?
hugo
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
No, you will need to order it from Vans or Aircraft Spruce, The can will go a long
way but it does have a shelf life, I used the small tubes from AS and Van's.
you don't need much, only about two oz's for each traling edg if that much.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 24
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|
rv7-list@matronics.com, rv8-list@matronics.com, rv9-list@matronics.com,
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Listers,
Gary VanRemortel just sent me an update to the RV Yeller Pages and it
can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/
Thanks Gary!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
you need that too...
but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
It needs to be fresh.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
<gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
> hugo
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
No, proseal isn't included. You may want to buy 2 cans, and keep them
in the freezer when you're not using them.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a mention about
proseal,it is come with the kit?
> hugo
>
Message 27
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
-Mike
RV-4 flying
RV-10 building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
you need that too...
but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
It needs to be fresh.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
<gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
> hugo
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I beg to differ Mike...
The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
the tabs before it hardened.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
> -Mike
> RV-4 flying
> RV-10 building
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> you need that too...
>
> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
> It needs to be fresh.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>> hugo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
You will need:
8 4 1/2" x 3/8" bolts
8 3/8" nuts
16 3/8" washers
Jim C
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
--> RV10-List message posted by: =?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?=
<Seipel@seznam.cz>
On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and aft center
sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they don't call out the
bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to use the actual spar attach bolts.
So does anyone have handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need
to use? Or is there some other/better way to do this?
Thanks,
PJ
#40032
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Jeff,
Is it possible the room temp was higher when you worked with it
most recently? Temperature will affect curing time, but in general,
I believe that old proseal will take L-o-n-g-e-r to cure than
new proseal....it'll still seal. I just used some for some fuselage
tasks this week that I've had stored in the freezer since doing
my fuel tanks....seemed to be the same to me. It's probably
prudent to order one can initially, and a fresh can at fuel
tank time, but for any reasonably normal speed builder, the
shelf life should be there for the fuel tanks if they don't
go too slow on the kit...especially if you store it in the
freezer. I'm sure most people will order from Van's at least
2 or 3 times per kit section to get replacement parts, missing
parts, and other supplies, so one can is probably the best
way to go.
Heck, I'm still ordering nutplates and screws from Aircraft
Spruce as recently as today, just to make sure that I'm not
going to run out.
Tim
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> I beg to differ Mike...
>
> The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
> expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to work
> with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through the tabs
> before it hardened.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
>> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
>> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
>> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
>> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
>> -Mike
>> RV-4 flying
>> RV-10 building
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>> Carpenter
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> you need that too...
>>
>> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
>> It needs to be fresh.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>>> hugo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Hugo, one of the things you will want to be aware of is the need to
trim the nose ribs in the vertical stabilizer (vs 1006, vs1013, and vs
1005. the flanges are a bit too wide and long and when you cleco the
thinner skins together and pull the bend in the vs 1001 skin tight
against the skeleton you will get a dent that protrudes outward from
the structure. Several of us were comparing notes @ OSH and we all
found this out the hard way. The same situation exists when you get to
the horizontal stabilizer only they make a mention of it in the plans.
however they have not updated the Sec 6 VS plans with the same
information.(see page 8-7 and check out Figure 2 where it shows how to
avoid the problem.
Enjoy!!
Deems Davis # 406
Tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> Jeff,
> Is it possible the room temp was higher when you worked with it
> most recently? Temperature will affect curing time, but in general,
> I believe that old proseal will take L-o-n-g-e-r to cure than
> new proseal....it'll still seal. I just used some for some fuselage
> tasks this week that I've had stored in the freezer since doing
> my fuel tanks....seemed to be the same to me. It's probably
> prudent to order one can initially, and a fresh can at fuel
> tank time, but for any reasonably normal speed builder, the
> shelf life should be there for the fuel tanks if they don't
> go too slow on the kit...especially if you store it in the
> freezer. I'm sure most people will order from Van's at least
> 2 or 3 times per kit section to get replacement parts, missing
> parts, and other supplies, so one can is probably the best
> way to go.
>
> Heck, I'm still ordering nutplates and screws from Aircraft
> Spruce as recently as today, just to make sure that I'm not
> going to run out.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> I beg to differ Mike...
>>
>> The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
>> expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
>> work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
>> the tabs before it hardened.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
>>> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
>>> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
>>> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
>>> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
>>> -Mike
>>> RV-4 flying
>>> RV-10 building
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>>> Carpenter
>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>>
>>> you need that too...
>>>
>>> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
>>> It needs to be fresh.
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>>>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>>>> hugo
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 32
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
What was the temp when you used it?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I beg to differ Mike...
The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
the tabs before it hardened.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
> -Mike
> RV-4 flying
> RV-10 building
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> you need that too...
>
> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
> It needs to be fresh.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>> hugo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 33
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|
I know I'm one of the slower builders and it's not a race, so here's my
exuberance for the day.
After putting together the VS and Rudder, I've finally gotten well into the
HS. I had a feeling that must be something close to the RV grin (still
haven't gotten my demo yet) after setting up the cradles and putting my
skeleton together for the HS. While I was following the directions by
picking up the whole assembly to slide in the two stringers, I thought, "boy
this thing really feels like I'm handling an airplane part." I guess after
making a stabilator for a CH640 and attending the sheetmetal sportair
workshop, the VS and Rudder felt like learning projects again. But handling
that large of an assembly in the HS was a different feeling altogether!
I guess this is what really gets in your blood and makes you a repeat
offender. I can't imagine what you repeat offenders must have felt after
having to fabricate a lot more than we do in the -10, and seeing your babies
come together. Then again, it's also REALLY nice having all the holes match
up almost perfectly every time too. If you're just starting, build away!
Are we sure that there are just 24 hours in a day?
Rob Wright
#392
HS
Message 34
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
>
>I know I'm one of the slower builders and it's not a race, so here's my
>exuberance for the day.
>
>
>After putting together the VS and Rudder, I've finally gotten well into the
>HS. I had a feeling that must be something close to the RV grin (still
>haven't gotten my demo yet) after setting up the cradles and putting my
>skeleton together for the HS. While I was following the directions by
>picking up the whole assembly to slide in the two stringers, I thought,
>"boy
>this thing really feels like I'm handling an airplane part." I guess after
>making a stabilator for a CH640 and attending the sheetmetal sportair
>workshop, the VS and Rudder felt like learning projects again. But
>handling
>that large of an assembly in the HS was a different feeling altogether!
>
>
>I guess this is what really gets in your blood and makes you a repeat
>offender. I can't imagine what you repeat offenders must have felt after
>having to fabricate a lot more than we do in the -10, and seeing your
>babies
>come together. Then again, it's also REALLY nice having all the holes
>match
>up almost perfectly every time too. If you're just starting, build away!
>Are we sure that there are just 24 hours in a day?
>
>
>Rob Wright
>
>#392
>
>HS
Rob,
I love your enthusiasm! If I could just get this house project overwith,
I'd get back to building. I do miss it and yes, seeing all those matched
hole parts just fall together is utterly amazing. My -8 was in the
"neo-classical" genre of RV kit development...no matched holes but with
prepunched skins. Boy, the old timers who had to mine their own bauxite
would thump their hairy chests and grunt their throaty snarls at us new kids
on the block. I wonder what they have to say to us now?
Must be time to shave our legs, paint our -10's pink and adorn the
headliners with tafeta and sequins.
Keep it up and enjoy the ride.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD complete with a few UNmatched holes.
RV10 '51
Message 35
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Hi Jeff,
I'm not going to argue with you, but I have built an RV-4, RV-7, and now
a RV-10 and helped a friend with his RV-7 and another with a RV-9A. I
have used expired proseal many times over to seal many areas in the
plane and never had an issue with it hardening (or not hardening). If
you are getting it to cure after 15 minutes, it is either way to hot in
your hanger or you are mixing it with too much hardener. Expired
proseal will last for over a year after its expiration date (even a lot
longer if kept in the freezer or in cooler storage).
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I beg to differ Mike...
The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
the tabs before it hardened.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
> -Mike
> RV-4 flying
> RV-10 building
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> you need that too...
>
> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
> It needs to be fresh.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>> hugo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Pneumatic Pop Riveter |
I'd have to say there is one better, cheaper pneumatic tool.... A
pneumatic cleco remover from the Yard Store.... Best $25 I have ever
spent!
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?Action=ViewCategory
<http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?Action=ViewCategory&Category=88>
&Category=88
item # 12165
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RV10-List: Pneumatic Pop Riveter
To all of you that do not yet have a pneumatic pop riveter, I recommend
you switch over to your internet browser and go to the Harbor Freight
website, www.harborfreight.com oddly enough, and order one as fast as
you can type. It is on sale again now for $34.99 and has saved my hands
numerous times, especially installing the floors in the fuselage. One
of the rare times when a cheap tool actually works as advertised. The
part number is 00167-1AKH and I checked the website and it works if you
use the "Find Item Number:" area. I doubt you'll find something so
useful for such a good deal. No, I don't have any affiliation with
Harbor Freight, just glad I got this thing awhile ago.
Marcus
40286
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
When you stack up the spacers make sure all of them are there. If I
remember correctly, there are 52 spacers total in the pack. There are 4
more in one of the brown bags. Don't know why they package them separately.
These 4 are thinner. So each stack should have 13 thicks ones and one thin
one. The drawings show it but it's easy to assume all spacers were packaged
together.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: <1stLt Seipel>; "Patrick J." <Seipel@seznam.cz>
Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by:
=?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?= <Seipel@seznam.cz>
>
> On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd and aft
center sections with spacers in between. As far as I can see, they don't
call out the bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't want tÿÿÿÿe thÿÿÿÿtualÿÿÿÿr
ÿÿÿÿattaÿÿÿÿoltsÿÿÿÿ doeÿÿÿÿyoneÿÿÿÿe haÿÿÿÿthe ÿÿÿÿs ofÿÿÿÿdwarÿÿÿÿore ÿÿÿÿs
ÿÿÿÿthatÿÿÿÿouldÿÿÿÿd toÿÿÿÿ? Orÿÿÿÿtherÿÿÿÿme oÿÿÿÿ/betÿÿÿÿway ÿÿÿÿo thÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿt;
ÿÿÿÿ >ÿÿÿÿhankÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ; Pÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ #4ÿÿÿÿ
ÿÿÿÿgt;
ÿÿÿÿ &gÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿlockÿÿÿÿe>ÿÿÿÿage ÿÿÿÿfontÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿnterÿÿÿÿockqÿÿÿÿ><ÿÿÿÿtd><ÿÿÿÿe boÿÿÿÿ=0 cÿÿÿÿaddiÿÿÿÿ>
ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ> ÿÿÿÿ to ÿÿÿÿ INDÿÿÿÿfontÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿREF=ÿÿÿÿSSAGÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿPÿÿÿÿOUS<ÿÿÿÿt><ÿÿÿÿ sizÿÿÿÿ facÿÿÿÿmes ÿÿÿÿRomaÿÿÿÿ> Skÿÿÿÿo PRÿÿÿÿUS Mÿÿÿÿge
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<ÿÿÿÿ sizÿÿÿÿ facÿÿÿÿmes ÿÿÿÿRomaÿÿÿÿb>LIÿÿÿÿfontÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿly tÿÿÿÿST Rÿÿÿÿdingÿÿÿÿs Meÿÿÿÿeÿÿÿÿ
<ÿÿÿÿtd><ÿÿÿÿa hrÿÿÿÿmailÿÿÿÿ22Deÿÿÿÿ%22 ÿÿÿÿvu@aÿÿÿÿtel.ÿÿÿÿ3E
%ÿÿÿÿian ÿÿÿÿ%22 ÿÿÿÿkrogÿÿÿÿotmaÿÿÿÿom%3ÿÿÿÿbjecÿÿÿÿ: RVÿÿÿÿist:ÿÿÿÿn thÿÿÿÿght
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<ÿÿÿÿle>
ÿÿÿÿ
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<ÿÿÿÿidthÿÿÿÿ%" aÿÿÿÿ="leÿÿÿÿ<ÿÿÿÿle><ÿÿÿÿe boÿÿÿÿ="0"ÿÿÿÿlpadÿÿÿÿ="0"ÿÿÿÿlspaÿÿÿÿ="0"ÿÿÿÿth="ÿÿÿÿ"><ÿÿÿÿont ÿÿÿÿ=3 fÿÿÿÿ"timÿÿÿÿew rÿÿÿÿ, tiÿÿÿÿ colÿÿÿÿ#000ÿÿÿÿ>Froÿÿÿÿ/td>ÿÿÿÿwidtÿÿÿÿ5%" ÿÿÿÿn="lÿÿÿÿ><ÿÿÿÿ>"Deÿÿÿÿ" &lÿÿÿÿ hreÿÿÿÿailtÿÿÿÿu@amÿÿÿÿel.nÿÿÿÿwvu@ÿÿÿÿitelÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿubjeÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿu>Reÿÿÿÿen tÿÿÿÿightÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ> ÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿ0-Liÿÿÿÿessaÿÿÿÿosteÿÿÿÿ: "Dÿÿÿÿu" &ÿÿÿÿa hrÿÿÿÿmailÿÿÿÿvu@aÿÿÿÿtel.ÿÿÿÿ>wvuÿÿÿÿriteÿÿÿÿtakÿÿÿÿy@hoÿÿÿÿl.coÿÿÿÿ>>ÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ
ÿÿÿÿgt;
ÿÿÿÿ &gÿÿÿÿa taÿÿÿÿ="otÿÿÿÿagesÿÿÿÿef="ÿÿÿÿ://wÿÿÿÿeociÿÿÿÿ.comÿÿÿÿeCanÿÿÿÿal/Hÿÿÿÿr/96ÿÿÿÿkrosÿÿÿÿpageÿÿÿÿ">htÿÿÿÿ/wwwÿÿÿÿcitiÿÿÿÿom/Cÿÿÿÿanavÿÿÿÿ/Hanÿÿÿÿ9656ÿÿÿÿoshoÿÿÿÿge.hÿÿÿÿa>
ÿÿÿÿ >ÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ
ÿÿÿÿgt; ÿÿÿÿ
ÿÿÿÿgt; ÿÿÿÿI knÿÿÿÿ'm oÿÿÿÿf thÿÿÿÿowerÿÿÿÿlderÿÿÿÿd itÿÿÿÿot aÿÿÿÿe, sÿÿÿÿre'sÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿt; &ÿÿÿÿxubeÿÿÿÿe foÿÿÿÿe daÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ; &gÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ; &gÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ; &gÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ; &gÿÿÿÿter ÿÿÿÿing ÿÿÿÿtherÿÿÿÿ VS ÿÿÿÿRuddÿÿÿÿI'veÿÿÿÿallyÿÿÿÿten ÿÿÿÿ intÿÿÿÿ ÿÿÿÿ > >HS. I had a feeling that must be something close to the RV grin (still
> >haven't gotten my demo yet) after setting up the cradles and putting my
> >skeleton together for the HS. While I was following the directions by
> >picking up the whole assembly to slide in the two stringers, I thought,
> >"boy
> >this thing really feels like I'm handling an airplane part." I guess
after
> >making a stabilator for a CH640 and attending the sheetmetal sportair
> >workshop, the VS and Rudder felt like learning projects again. But
> >handling
> >that large of an assembly in the HS was a different feeling altogether!
> >
> >
> >
> >I guess this is what really gets in your blood and makes you a repeat
> >offender. I can't imagine what you repeat offenders must have felt after
> >having to fabricate a lot more than we do in the -10, and seeing your
> >babies
> >come together. Then again, it's also REALLY nice having all the holes
> >match
> >up almost perfectly every time too. If you're just starting, build away!
> >Are we sure that there are just 24 hours in a day?
> >
> >
> >
> >Rob Wright
> >
> >#392
> >
> >HS
>
> Rob,
>
> I love your enthusiasm! If I could just get this house project overwith,
> I'd get back to building. I do miss it and yes, seeing all those matched
> hole parts just fall together is utterly amazing. My -8 was in the
> "neo-classical" genre of RV kit development...no matched holes but with
> prepunched skins. Boy, the old timers who had to mine their own bauxite
> would thump their hairy chests and grunt their throaty snarls at us new
kids
> on the block. I wonder what they have to say to us now?
>
> Must be time to shave our legs, paint our -10's pink and adorn the
> headliners with tafeta and sequins.
>
> Keep it up and enjoy the ride.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD complete with a few UNmatched holes.
> RV10 '51
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cabn Top Lines |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
The transition area you're talking about. should ride flush on the ouside of
the forward fuselage top. Leave the lip, where the windshield will be glued
onto, a little long down the sides like Bobby said. Cleco your fwd fuse top
in place when you trial fit the cabin top. It should be apparent then where
to further trim your transition area off.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
> drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
> area. One was me.
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 (Fus)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> You're catching up again...
>
> I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
> some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
> can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
> drawings as best I could.
>
> This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
>
> Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
> that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it during
> the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
> windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
> YMMV.
> (for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
>
> Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> > --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
> lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
> The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
> >
> > Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
> does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> > Bob
> > --------------------------
> > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
> >
>
>
Message 40
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|
Whoa whoa, there, Brian!
TDT
40025
Installing pink tafeta headliner with crushed velvet upholstery
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seen the light
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
>
>I know I'm one of the slower builders and it's not a race, so here's my
>exuberance for the day.
>
>
>After putting together the VS and Rudder, I've finally gotten well into the
>HS. I had a feeling that must be something close to the RV grin (still
>haven't gotten my demo yet) after setting up the cradles and putting my
>skeleton together for the HS. While I was following the directions by
>picking up the whole assembly to slide in the two stringers, I thought,
>"boy
>this thing really feels like I'm handling an airplane part." I guess after
>making a stabilator for a CH640 and attending the sheetmetal sportair
>workshop, the VS and Rudder felt like learning projects again. But
>handling
>that large of an assembly in the HS was a different feeling altogether!
>
>
>I guess this is what really gets in your blood and makes you a repeat
>offender. I can't imagine what you repeat offenders must have felt after
>having to fabricate a lot more than we do in the -10, and seeing your
>babies
>come together. Then again, it's also REALLY nice having all the holes
>match
>up almost perfectly every time too. If you're just starting, build away!
>Are we sure that there are just 24 hours in a day?
>
>
>Rob Wright
>
>#392
>
>HS
Rob,
I love your enthusiasm! If I could just get this house project overwith,
I'd get back to building. I do miss it and yes, seeing all those matched
hole parts just fall together is utterly amazing. My -8 was in the
"neo-classical" genre of RV kit development...no matched holes but with
prepunched skins. Boy, the old timers who had to mine their own bauxite
would thump their hairy chests and grunt their throaty snarls at us new kids
on the block. I wonder what they have to say to us now?
Must be time to shave our legs, paint our -10's pink and adorn the
headliners with tafeta and sequins.
Keep it up and enjoy the ride.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD complete with a few UNmatched holes.
RV10 '51
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Rick,
Having a helper is best of course but I did most of mine solo. Definitely
needed help for the ones around the flap brackets. I leveraged off of
adjacent clecos when able to keep the gun from moving. At some point you
don't have clecos left and have to just be very careful. The far reaching
ones required me to squeeze the gun with my thumb. Don't try that unless
you had a good night sleep, feel extra confident, and use short bursts when
squeezing the gun.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting bottom wing skins
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> What has everyone done to ease the riveting of the bottom wing skins? Is
it best to place the wing vertical in the stand and work from the floor to
reach the farthest away rivets? I can't see how you could get into the rear
spar with the wing flat on the bench. Any hints and suggestions? Did anyone
manage to do it solo?
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
>
Message 42
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Not really catching up - I'm out of town again this week but figured
somebody would come to my rescue before I get back. I'll take a look at
the pictures and see if there's enough there.
Of course, I need to live through the week with the "I" key on my
Blackberry sticking...
Thanks.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Bob,
You're catching up again...
I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones
in some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on
my site, you can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind
of just went by the drawings as best I could.
This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking
on yours that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll
fill in a lot of it during the windshield install I think
anyway. I haven't yet installed my windshield....just
reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so YMMV.
(for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the
finishing kit?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob #40105
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Thanks Anh,
I managed to do the entire rear spar on the root skin tonight. I expect to have
some company this weekend unless I manage to finish before they get here. FWIW,
I used knee pads (Please save the chuckles) and kneeled on the floor and worked
from below while the wing sat vertical in the stand, not as bad as I thought.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 44
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
How do I know what "too much" is? Drawings don't have measurements or
reference points. Tim's pictures are probably good enough to derive the
info from but it would be nice to have initial cut info. I looked very
closely at that area and there just aren't any scribe lines.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Bob,
Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
area. One was me.
Bobby Hughes
40116 (Fus)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Bob,
You're catching up again...
I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
drawings as best I could.
This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it during
the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
YMMV.
(for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob #40105
>
> Bob
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
Message 45
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
These are exactly the lines I was asking about, thanks!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I've added a page to the Wiki that shows a couple pictures Brian B. sent
to the list a while back which may help, but not sure if these are the
lines you are talking about.
<http://www.rv10wiki.com/index.php?title=Top_Cut_Lines>
-Sean #40303
Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
> drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
> area. One was me.
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 (Fus)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> You're catching up again...
>
> I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
> some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
> can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
> drawings as best I could.
>
> This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
>
> Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
> that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it
during
> the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
> windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
> YMMV.
> (for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
>
> Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
>>
> lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld
area.
> The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
>
>> Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If
not,
>>
> does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>> Bob
>> --------------------------
>> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 46
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Not all Proseal is created equal. The stuff in the cans that Van's
sells is 2 hour cure time, the 6oz tubes are 1/2 hour cure time. Don't
know about the smaller tubes.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I beg to differ Mike...
The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
the tabs before it hardened.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
> -Mike
> RV-4 flying
> RV-10 building
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> you need that too...
>
> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
> It needs to be fresh.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>> hugo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 47
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Brian,
So little heard from you lately, the last thing I wanted to hear from you was to
shave my legs and head towards something "pink" in the form of a garment/headliner.....If
you don't shift directions we will have to come get your son from
you before you ruin him!!! :)
All in jest my friend....What is the status of your build at this point? If I had
an -8 sitting on the ramp I might not be in a hurry either!!
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 48
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|
Received-SPF: none (out8.mx.klmz.mi.voyager.net: 207.89.248.210 is neither permitted
nor denied by domain of core.com) client-ip=207.89.248.210; envelope-from=wcurtis@core.com;
helo=localhost;
| Subject: | RE: Riveting bottom wing skin |
Rick,
I found it much easier to do it solo EXCEPT for the rivets around the flap hinge
mounts and the rear spar rivets. Here is a picture of me riveting mine.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings96e.html
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 49
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks, that sounds like a reasonable approach. I'm out of town right
now but have all the lines highlighted and ready to trim when I get
back. I don't have the forward fuselage top on at the moment but will
be sure to cleco it on before starting to fit.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
The transition area you're talking about. should ride flush on the
ouside of
the forward fuselage top. Leave the lip, where the windshield will be
glued
onto, a little long down the sides like Bobby said. Cleco your fwd fuse
top
in place when you trial fit the cabin top. It should be apparent then
where
to further trim your transition area off.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
> drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
> area. One was me.
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 (Fus)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> You're catching up again...
>
> I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
> some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
> can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
> drawings as best I could.
>
> This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
>
> Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
> that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it
during
> the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
> windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
> YMMV.
> (for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
>
> Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> > --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
> lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld
area.
> The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
> >
> > Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If
not,
> does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> > Bob
> > --------------------------
> > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
> >
>
>
Message 50
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Correct Bob, you can tell the cure time from the last few letters of the part number...
B-2 = 2 hours B-1/2= 30 minutes or something like that. I read it on
the Firemaster web site.
Rick S.
Message 51
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Just to wrap this up - I just checked the Van's web site and only the
can is the 2 hour version. Both of the tube sizes (3.5oz and 1oz) are
the 30 minute cure time. Sounds like the problem might have been using
the shorter cure time sealant under hot conditions.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Correct Bob, you can tell the cure time from the last few letters of the
part number... B-2 = 2 hours B-1/2= 30 minutes or something like that. I
read it on the Firemaster web site.
Rick S.
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Cabn Top Lines |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Trimming no higher than where the vertical starts to bend rearward will be
more than sufficient. Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> How do I know what "too much" is? Drawings don't have measurements or
> reference points. Tim's pictures are probably good enough to derive the
> info from but it would be nice to have initial cut info. I looked very
> closely at that area and there just aren't any scribe lines.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
> Hughes
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 9:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Just do not cut off to much. It is easy to do when looking at the
> drawing. I know of two builders that had to rebuild the glass in that
> area. One was me.
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 (Fus)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabn Top Lines
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> You're catching up again...
>
> I didn't have very visible markings myself...just some faint ones in
> some areas. I am guessing if you check out the photos on my site, you
> can get a rough estimate of where to cut. I kind of just went by the
> drawings as best I could.
>
> This is the page with my now famous "happy to do fiberglas" photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050622/index.html
>
> Maybe after you see the photos, you'll find a faint marking on yours
> that matches, so you'll have a guide. You'll fill in a lot of it during
> the windshield install I think anyway. I haven't yet installed my
> windshield....just reading on that today to make sure I'm ready, so
> YMMV.
> (for Jesse...Your mileage may vary) ;)
>
> Can someone verify that the E-Glass is included in the finishing kit?
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> > --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > I'm just about ready to trm the cabin top and don't have any scribe
> lines where the forward vertcal secton transitons to the wndsheld area.
> The drawings don't have any measurements in ths area either.
> >
> > Is ths an area that's obvous when you actually start fitting? If not,
> does anybody have measurements and/or pix that would help out?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> > Bob
> > --------------------------
> > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
> >
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Oil seperator... |
"rocket-list" <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"rv10-list" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
The Lyc IO-540 J4A5 in HRII N561FS has the internal oil system that sprays
oil on the bottom sides of the pistons. This "spray" would increase air
borne oil droplets who could then find their way out the vent system. Have
been told that this spray system is used on Turbo'ed optioned Lyc. etc. to
increase cooling on the higher HP engines. The J4A5 in 561FS is only rated
at 250 HP. Not sure IF or what 320/360's use this system but I would assume
this type of system would also be on certain 4 cylinder Lyco. too.
I do know anything over about 9 1/2 qts. in 561FS gets pumped overboard.
Check the archives IF your interested IMNSHO in what I've posted on oil
separators. (not favorable). KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: seen the light |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
NO...the crushed velvet is for the fedora (hat). 8*) KABONG Do Not
Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: seen the light
Whoa whoa, there, Brian!
TDT
40025
Installing pink tafeta headliner with crushed velvet upholstery
Do not archive
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