Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:44 AM - Re: Exterior lighting choices (Werner Schneider)
2. 06:03 AM - Re: seen the light (Brian Denk)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 06:54 AM - Battery Purchase (Tim Olson)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
6. 07:29 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Rob Kermanj)
7. 07:43 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 07:45 AM - Re: Re: Exterior lighting choices ()
9. 07:45 AM - Riveting bottom wing skins (Jay Brinkmeyer)
10. 07:47 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
11. 07:48 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Dj Merrill)
12. 07:49 AM - #6 & #8 Screw Dimple Die Sets for sale (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 07:52 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
14. 09:15 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Rick)
15. 09:50 AM - clecoes ()
16. 09:51 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Tim Olson)
17. 10:02 AM - Re: clecoes (Rick)
18. 10:15 AM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Jeff Carpenter)
19. 10:22 AM - Rear Step not aligned (Tim Olson)
20. 10:46 AM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Tim Olson)
21. 10:48 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
22. 11:01 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Sean Stephens)
23. 11:02 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Carl Froehlich)
24. 11:13 AM - Re: Rear Step not aligned (Bobby J. Hughes)
25. 11:13 AM - Re: Rear Step not aligned (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
26. 11:23 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
27. 11:37 AM - Re: Battery Purchase (Randy DeBauw)
28. 11:45 AM - Re: Rear Step not aligned (Bobby J. Hughes)
29. 12:31 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (Sean Stephens)
30. 01:17 PM - Re: Rear Step not aligned (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
31. 01:34 PM - W1029 bracket problem (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
32. 01:42 PM - Re: hugo rv10 FL (Jeff Carpenter)
33. 01:48 PM - Re: W1029 bracket problem (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
34. 01:59 PM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (PJ Seipel)
35. 02:37 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (Scott Schmidt)
36. 02:46 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
37. 03:13 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (linn walters)
38. 03:44 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (Wentz, Don)
39. 05:15 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (Byron Gillespie)
40. 07:24 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
41. 08:02 PM - Re: Battery Purchase (John Testement)
42. 08:50 PM - Re: Rear Step not aligned (Tim Olson)
43. 09:53 PM - Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? (bob.kaufmann)
44. 09:54 PM - Re: clecoes (bob.kaufmann)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior lighting choices |
I would prefer strobes run from local power supplies but Aeroflash is the only
option of the three for this
One warning about the Aeroflash local power supply, they are using special made
condenser, so if one fails you're up to them to repair, as you can't buy a replacement
from anywhere else.
I've got one down after only 40 hrs.
Werner
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>Brian,
>
>So little heard from you lately, the last thing I wanted to hear from you
>was to shave my legs and head towards something "pink" in the form of a
>garment/headliner.....If you don't shift directions we will have to come
>get your son from you before you ruin him!!! :)
>
>All in jest my friend....What is the status of your build at this point? If
>I had an -8 sitting on the ramp I might not be in a hurry either!!
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Wings
I think I was suffering from "oh my god this new house is costing me a mint
and how am I ever going to be able to afford fuel to fly" '-itis. I simply
must get in some quality RV time.
My -10 project (QB wings ordered) is on hold until we get moved and our
current house is ready to rent. That means, at least three more months of
packing, coordinating "stuff" with the builder, fixing up the old house,
getting the wife's office re-configured, blah blah blah.
At least when it's all said and done, I'll have a 1500 sq. ft hangar right
outside my kitchen door with a ready to fly RV8 sitting in it 24/7.
Gotta love that.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 3
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Temp has a HUGE effect on cure time. I put my elevators out in the Texas sun and
heat and they were cured COMPLETELY in less than an hour.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Jeff,
Is it possible the room temp was higher when you worked with it most recently?
Temperature will affect curing time, but in general, I believe that old proseal
will take L-o-n-g-e-r to cure than new proseal....it'll still seal. I just
used some for some fuselage tasks this week that I've had stored in the freezer
since doing
my fuel tanks....seemed to be the same to me. It's probably
prudent to order one can initially, and a fresh can at fuel tank time, but for
any reasonably normal speed builder, the shelf life should be there for the fuel
tanks if they don't go too slow on the kit...especially if you store it in
the
freezer. I'm sure most people will order from Van's at least
2 or 3 times per kit section to get replacement parts, missing parts, and other
supplies, so one can is probably the best way to go.
Heck, I'm still ordering nutplates and screws from Aircraft Spruce as recently
as today, just to make sure that I'm not going to run out.
Tim
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> --> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> I beg to differ Mike...
>
> The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
> expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
> work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
> the tabs before it hardened.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
>> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are
>> willing to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not
>> cured in the cans, it will work for well over a year after the
>> expiration date. I just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
>> -Mike
>> RV-4 flying
>> RV-10 building
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>> Carpenter
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>> --> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> you need that too...
>>
>> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
>> It needs to be fresh.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>>> hugo
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
How crazy would it be to buy my battery 6 months before flying?
I'm thinking that if I keep it from being way discharged, probably
no big deal, since I'll do a 2 year rotation anyway.
I'm currently leaning towards an Odyssey PC1200T or PC925T. Would
like input on terminals. The PC925 and PC1200 (no T) are those flat
new car style terminals, the T type are the batter post type with
3/8" threaded hole on top. The 1200 is I'm sure overkill on cranking
power, but it would be a great battery for cold Wisconsin winters
and it has a lot longer reserve capacity life.
Here's a place I found to buy them. Any other good places people
have had luck with?
http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyProducts.htm
The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a
supply that's capable.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
38 pounds! Oy!
eBay is also a good place to check for Odyessey batteries. You can also find nice
power supplies of various voltages on eBay . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
How crazy would it be to buy my battery 6 months before flying?
I'm thinking that if I keep it from being way discharged, probably
no big deal, since I'll do a 2 year rotation anyway.
I'm currently leaning towards an Odyssey PC1200T or PC925T. Would
like input on terminals. The PC925 and PC1200 (no T) are those flat
new car style terminals, the T type are the batter post type with
3/8" threaded hole on top. The 1200 is I'm sure overkill on cranking
power, but it would be a great battery for cold Wisconsin winters
and it has a lot longer reserve capacity life.
Here's a place I found to buy them. Any other good places people
have had luck with?
http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyProducts.htm
The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a
supply that's capable.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
I have had great luck with Sears handicap dry cell battery in my RV6.
It is used to power wheel chairs. It is also configured the same as
Gil.
On Aug 10, 2005, at 9:51 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> How crazy would it be to buy my battery 6 months before flying?
> I'm thinking that if I keep it from being way discharged, probably
> no big deal, since I'll do a 2 year rotation anyway.
>
> I'm currently leaning towards an Odyssey PC1200T or PC925T. Would
> like input on terminals. The PC925 and PC1200 (no T) are those flat
> new car style terminals, the T type are the batter post type with
> 3/8" threaded hole on top. The 1200 is I'm sure overkill on cranking
> power, but it would be a great battery for cold Wisconsin winters
> and it has a lot longer reserve capacity life.
>
> Here's a place I found to buy them. Any other good places people
> have had luck with?
>
> http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyProducts.htm
>
> The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
> A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
> B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a
> supply that's capable.
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
Other than making sure it fits, there really is no reason unless you have nothing
else lying around. Do you have a car, boat, atv, motorcycle that might need
a new battery? You could get a new cheapy from Wally world and then move it
into a vehicle when you are done with it.
Also, you should put a maintainer on it all the time to keep it from getting too discharged. If you are powering up your panel all day or something you will probably have to use a full size charger which will act as your power supply being buffered by the battery. I like the Battery Tender Jr that Bob recommends and I use it on my quad. But if I go with a regular or RG battery, I will probably use a Kisan ChargeX <http://www.kisantech.com/view_product.php?productCX-10> tender which is about the size of a pack of Wrigley's and also has desulfate capabilities. I use this on my Harley and haven't bought a new battery in more than 3 years.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
How crazy would it be to buy my battery 6 months before flying?
I'm thinking that if I keep it from being way discharged, probably no big deal,
since I'll do a 2 year rotation anyway.
I'm currently leaning towards an Odyssey PC1200T or PC925T. Would like input on
terminals. The PC925 and PC1200 (no T) are those flat new car style terminals,
the T type are the batter post type with 3/8" threaded hole on top. The 1200
is I'm sure overkill on cranking power, but it would be a great battery for
cold Wisconsin winters and it has a lot longer reserve capacity life.
Here's a place I found to buy them. Any other good places people have had luck
with?
http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyProducts.htm
The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a supply that's capable.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior lighting choices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <923te@cox.net>
whelen also has "local" power supplies
whelen HTSCF power supply
http://www.whelen.com/aviation/catalog/Power%20Supplies.pdf
I find that whelen is much brighter and lasts lots longer than aero flash
============================================================
From: "Werner Schneider" <glacheck star@gmx.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Exterior lighting choices
I would prefer strobes run from local power supplies but Aeroflash is the only
option of the three for this
One warning about the Aeroflash local power supply, they are using special made
condenser, so if one fails you're up to them to repair, as you can't buy a replacement
from anywhere else.
I've got one down after only 40 hrs.
Werner
============================================================
Message 9
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| Subject: | Riveting bottom wing skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Hey Rick,
I did mine solo. My wings are both in a cradle (see www.brinkmeyers.net
although it's been a while since I updated my website) with the bottoms facing
outward. I was able to do all the riveting on the bottom skins this way without
resorting to any unnatural acts. The hardest part for me was visual inspection
of the shop heads. I wasn't overly concerned about flat rivets, but it's really
easy to slip with the bucking bar and make a mess. I ended up with a few smiles
that will need to be filled due to over exuberance in air pressure setting or
just plain missing (hey... it's hand built and there are thousands of chances
to end up with a few duds in the bunch!).
P.S. I have OSH photos that will be posted on my website by Friday. Nice
airplane Randy!
Cheers,
Jay
do not archive
Time: 07:48:13 AM PST US
From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Subject: Riveting bottom wing skins
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
What has everyone done to ease the riveting of the bottom wing skins? Is
it best
to place the wing vertical in the stand and work from the floor to reach
the
farthest away rivets? I can't see how you could get into the rear spar
with the
wing flat on the bench. Any hints and suggestions? Did anyone manage to
do
it solo?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 10
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I bought my PC925 about 6 months ago. The odyssey has a self life of
over 8 years. The PC925 is also as close as you can get to the one that
Van's uses to help keep w & b in line.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
How crazy would it be to buy my battery 6 months before flying?
I'm thinking that if I keep it from being way discharged, probably
no big deal, since I'll do a 2 year rotation anyway.
I'm currently leaning towards an Odyssey PC1200T or PC925T. Would
like input on terminals. The PC925 and PC1200 (no T) are those flat
new car style terminals, the T type are the batter post type with
3/8" threaded hole on top. The 1200 is I'm sure overkill on cranking
power, but it would be a great battery for cold Wisconsin winters
and it has a lot longer reserve capacity life.
Here's a place I found to buy them. Any other good places people
have had luck with?
http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyProducts.htm
The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a
supply that's capable.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Tim Olson wrote:
> The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
> A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
> B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a
> supply that's capable.
Hi Tim,
I'd wait.
than the battery and do not need to be recharged... ;-)
Plus, I bet you will find other uses for it once you have it.
-Dj
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | #6 & #8 Screw Dimple Die Sets for sale |
Ok, for some reason I had a brain fart and ordered a #6 & #8 Dimple Die set when
I already had them. They are US Tool and go for $32.50. I'll let them go for
$20 each with USPS (USA only) shipping included.
If anyone is interested email me off list.
Michael Sausen
Do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
Also https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
How crazy would it be to buy my battery 6 months before flying?
I'm thinking that if I keep it from being way discharged, probably
no big deal, since I'll do a 2 year rotation anyway.
I'm currently leaning towards an Odyssey PC1200T or PC925T. Would
like input on terminals. The PC925 and PC1200 (no T) are those flat
new car style terminals, the T type are the batter post type with
3/8" threaded hole on top. The 1200 is I'm sure overkill on cranking
power, but it would be a great battery for cold Wisconsin winters
and it has a lot longer reserve capacity life.
Here's a place I found to buy them. Any other good places people
have had luck with?
http://www.batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyProducts.htm
The reason I'd like to splurge for the battery now is that
A) I can make sure I have my battery tray sized properly.
B) I can use it to power my panel, since I don't own a
supply that's capable.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Tim,
I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if has a nice
12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Do anybody have clecoes for sale ,the cheapest I can found are 34 cents apiece.
Hugo
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
be moving quite fast again.
Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if has a
nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
> rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
Message 17
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Try Aircraft tool supply, I think they may be $.32 Welcome to the world of cleco
sticker shock.
Rick S.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Hi Mike,
I can't claim much proseal experience... just the rudder and trim
tabs, both using the tube that Vans sells. In the case of the
rudder, I had the full two hour window (and unfortunately needed
it... but that's another story). With the tabs I worked quickly and
still found the proseal almost too hard to use as I started the 2nd
tab. I'm working in an air conditioned space, and the temperature
never gets outside the 68-78 degree range. Given your experience
with old proseal taking longer to set up, my only guess is that the
pre-measured tube from Vans had too much hardener in it.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Aug 9, 2005, at 8:01 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> I'm not going to argue with you, but I have built an RV-4, RV-7,
> and now
> a RV-10 and helped a friend with his RV-7 and another with a RV-9A. I
> have used expired proseal many times over to seal many areas in the
> plane and never had an issue with it hardening (or not hardening). If
> you are getting it to cure after 15 minutes, it is either way to
> hot in
> your hanger or you are mixing it with too much hardener. Expired
> proseal will last for over a year after its expiration date (even a
> lot
> longer if kept in the freezer or in cooler storage).
> -Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 8:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> I beg to differ Mike...
>
> The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
> expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
> work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
> the tabs before it hardened.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
>> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are
>> willing
>> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
>> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
>> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
>> -Mike
>> RV-4 flying
>> RV-10 building
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>> Carpenter
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> you need that too...
>>
>> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
>> It needs to be fresh.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>>> hugo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Rear Step not aligned |
This I'm passing on from another RV-10 Builder...Dave Emond.
It's regarding a QB Fuselage.
"I am experiencing an alignment problem with the steps. If I insert the
step into the weldment, the UHMW block that fits onto the step shaft and
then bolts onto the rib, doesn't align with the holes in the rib. Did
you experience any similar problem?"
He sent a photo....see attached.
His UHMW block was pre-attached, just like mine, but his step
doesn't slide in straight.
Is there anyone out there who's had this situation or might have
advice? He's currently waiting for advice from Van's.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ahhh...the answer is in your reply....you used tubes, not cans.
The tubes are what's available with the 30 minute time. The
cans are 2 hours.
Tim
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I can't claim much proseal experience... just the rudder and trim tabs,
> both using the tube that Vans sells. In the case of the rudder, I had
> the full two hour window (and unfortunately needed it... but that's
> another story). With the tabs I worked quickly and still found the
> proseal almost too hard to use as I started the 2nd tab. I'm working
> in an air conditioned space, and the temperature never gets outside the
> 68-78 degree range. Given your experience with old proseal taking
> longer to set up, my only guess is that the pre-measured tube from Vans
> had too much hardener in it.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2005, at 8:01 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> Hi Jeff,
>>
>> I'm not going to argue with you, but I have built an RV-4, RV-7, and now
>> a RV-10 and helped a friend with his RV-7 and another with a RV-9A. I
>> have used expired proseal many times over to seal many areas in the
>> plane and never had an issue with it hardening (or not hardening). If
>> you are getting it to cure after 15 minutes, it is either way to hot in
>> your hanger or you are mixing it with too much hardener. Expired
>> proseal will last for over a year after its expiration date (even a lot
>> longer if kept in the freezer or in cooler storage).
>> -Mike
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>> Carpenter
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 8:47 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> I beg to differ Mike...
>>
>> The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
>> expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
>> work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
>> the tabs before it hardened.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd find
>>> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are willing
>>> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured in the
>>> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration date. I
>>> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
>>> -Mike
>>> RV-4 flying
>>> RV-10 building
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>>> Carpenter
>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>>
>>> you need that too...
>>>
>>> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use it.
>>> It needs to be fresh.
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>>>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>>>> hugo
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
redundancy.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
be moving quite fast again.
Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if
has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
> rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Where is everyone placing their battery buss? Are you using 2AWG for +
and - going up to the firewall?
-Sean #40303
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
> smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
> additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
> related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
> and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
> considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
> redundancy.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
> and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
> can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
> got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
> route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
> pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
> up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
> in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
> slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
> I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
> be moving quite fast again.
>
> Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Rick wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if
>>
> has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
>> rick S.
>> 40185
>> Wings
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
I have a pair of Odyssey PC-625's in my RV-8A. The install supports dual
electronic ignitions and an all electric panel. The design is based on
being able to continue IFR flight with the lost of the alternator and one
battery until fuel exhaustion. If interested I'll send the power
distribution diagram.
Although the normal mode is to have both batteries on line, I have done some
single battery op tests. One battery spins my O-360 just fine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200 hrs), RV-10 on the wish list
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
redundancy.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
be moving quite fast again.
Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if
has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
> rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Rear Step not aligned |
Tim,
Not sure if this is the same problem. When I installed my steps I
discovered that I had transposed the WD-1008 L / R. These are my pics
from two angles.
If I remember correctly one corner of the WD-1008 is trimmed off for
alignment. I had that corner in the correct place buy the pilot hole was
not on top. The sketch in the plans showed the pilot hole location but
the text did not mention it. Only the cut off corner.
Drilling off the side skins was not fun.
Bobby Hughes
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
This I'm passing on from another RV-10 Builder...Dave Emond.
It's regarding a QB Fuselage.
"I am experiencing an alignment problem with the steps. If I insert the
step into the weldment, the UHMW block that fits onto the step shaft and
then bolts onto the rib, doesn't align with the holes in the rib. Did
you experience any similar problem?"
He sent a photo....see attached.
His UHMW block was pre-attached, just like mine, but his step doesn't
slide in straight.
Is there anyone out there who's had this situation or might have advice?
He's currently waiting for advice from Van's.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Rear Step not aligned |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
If I remember right, there was an issue with these being uni
directional, IE right and left, and during shipping they are in
backwards? If I remember from previous posts...did he check the other
side for fit?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
This I'm passing on from another RV-10 Builder...Dave Emond.
It's regarding a QB Fuselage.
"I am experiencing an alignment problem with the steps. If I insert the
step into the weldment, the UHMW block that fits onto the step shaft and
then bolts onto the rib, doesn't align with the holes in the rib. Did
you experience any similar problem?"
He sent a photo....see attached.
His UHMW block was pre-attached, just like mine, but his step
doesn't slide in straight.
Is there anyone out there who's had this situation or might have
advice? He's currently waiting for advice from Van's.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
I would like a copy of it, if you do not mind sharing
Dan
40269
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Froehlich
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich"
<carl.froehlich@cox.net>
I have a pair of Odyssey PC-625's in my RV-8A. The install supports
dual
electronic ignitions and an all electric panel. The design is based on
being able to continue IFR flight with the lost of the alternator and
one
battery until fuel exhaustion. If interested I'll send the power
distribution diagram.
Although the normal mode is to have both batteries on line, I have done
some
single battery op tests. One battery spins my O-360 just fine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200 hrs), RV-10 on the wish list
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
redundancy.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
be moving quite fast again.
Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if
has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
> rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
Message 27
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I used 4 ga. Wire and grounded as per Vans recommendations right to the
battery box mounting bolts. Works great and saves the weight of the neg
cable running clear to the front. All of Vans plans ground close to the
neg bat cable. I have separate avionics master contactor just in front
of the forward bulkhead in front of the panel. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Where is everyone placing their battery buss? Are you using 2AWG for +
and - going up to the firewall?
-Sean #40303
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
> smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
> additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
> related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
> and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
> considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
> redundancy.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
> and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that can
> push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein got a
> couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that route,
> but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well pick one up
> and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
> up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
> in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going slow
> right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once I finsish
> some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll be moving quite
> fast again.
>
> Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Rick wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see,
>> if
>>
> has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
>> rick S.
>> 40185
>> Wings
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Rear Step not aligned |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Tim,
I tried to send a couple of pics but the email must have been to large.
My steps did not align but I finally figured out I reversed the WD-1008
L / R. I do not thinks this is your issue since the bolt \ alignment
hole is on top of the pipe. On mine I had the cut off corner in the
proper place but the bolt \ pilot hole was to the rear. Verify where the
corner reference cut is on the WD-1008.
Bobby Hughes
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
This I'm passing on from another RV-10 Builder...Dave Emond.
It's regarding a QB Fuselage.
"I am experiencing an alignment problem with the steps. If I insert the
step into the weldment, the UHMW block that fits onto the step shaft and
then bolts onto the rib, doesn't align with the holes in the rib. Did
you experience any similar problem?"
He sent a photo....see attached.
His UHMW block was pre-attached, just like mine, but his step doesn't
slide in straight.
Is there anyone out there who's had this situation or might have advice?
He's currently waiting for advice from Van's.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
So, you ran 4AWG to the bat buss up front and grounded locally, correct?
Thanks Randy...
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I used 4 ga. Wire and grounded as per Vans recommendations right to the
> battery box mounting bolts. Works great and saves the weight of the neg
> cable running clear to the front. All of Vans plans ground close to the
> neg bat cable. I have separate avionics master contactor just in front
> of the forward bulkhead in front of the panel. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 11:01 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Where is everyone placing their battery buss? Are you using 2AWG for +
> and - going up to the firewall?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
>>
>
>
>> smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
>> additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
>> related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
>> and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
>> considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
>> redundancy.
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:52 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
>> and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that can
>> push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein got a
>> couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that route,
>> but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well pick one up
>> and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
>> up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
>> in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going slow
>> right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once I finsish
>>
>
>
>> some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll be moving quite
>>
>
>
>> fast again.
>>
>> Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> Rick wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see,
>>> if
>>>
>>>
>> has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>>
>>
>>> rick S.
>>> 40185
>>> Wings
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Rear Step not aligned |
Not sure what they do with the quick builds, but the block face has an
angle to it so that it will align with the rib. On the SB the holes are
drilled into the rib by putting the block on the step tube and then
match drilling the rib to fit. Check angle and swap sides is the only
advice that I've got.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
If I remember right, there was an issue with these being uni
directional, IE right and left, and during shipping they are in
backwards? If I remember from previous posts...did he check the other
side for fit?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
This I'm passing on from another RV-10 Builder...Dave Emond.
It's regarding a QB Fuselage.
"I am experiencing an alignment problem with the steps. If I insert the
step into the weldment, the UHMW block that fits onto the step shaft and
then bolts onto the rib, doesn't align with the holes in the rib. Did
you experience any similar problem?"
He sent a photo....see attached.
His UHMW block was pre-attached, just like mine, but his step
doesn't slide in straight.
Is there anyone out there who's had this situation or might have
advice? He's currently waiting for advice from Van's.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | W1029 bracket problem |
Ok, couple problems here. In section 14, my w-1029a/b bracket holes aren't even
close to lining up with the holes on the rib flange. Also the bracket seems
to be too long. The individual 1029's showed up completely mis-labeled and
I put them together according to which had the extra, large hole in it. Which
actually brings me to a third item, which wing does the completed bracket with
the extra hole belong in? The plans show both different brackets for the left
wing so it's not exactly consistent.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing Ribs
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: hugo rv10 FL |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
It all makes sense now... pays to read, huh?
On Aug 10, 2005, at 10:45 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Ahhh...the answer is in your reply....you used tubes, not cans.
> The tubes are what's available with the 30 minute time. The
> cans are 2 hours.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>> Hi Mike,
>> I can't claim much proseal experience... just the rudder and trim
>> tabs, both using the tube that Vans sells. In the case of the
>> rudder, I had the full two hour window (and unfortunately needed
>> it... but that's another story). With the tabs I worked quickly
>> and still found the proseal almost too hard to use as I started
>> the 2nd tab. I'm working in an air conditioned space, and the
>> temperature never gets outside the 68-78 degree range. Given
>> your experience with old proseal taking longer to set up, my only
>> guess is that the pre-measured tube from Vans had too much
>> hardener in it.
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 8:01 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>> Hi Jeff,
>>>
>>> I'm not going to argue with you, but I have built an RV-4, RV-7,
>>> and now
>>> a RV-10 and helped a friend with his RV-7 and another with a
>>> RV-9A. I
>>> have used expired proseal many times over to seal many areas in the
>>> plane and never had an issue with it hardening (or not
>>> hardening). If
>>> you are getting it to cure after 15 minutes, it is either way to
>>> hot in
>>> your hanger or you are mixing it with too much hardener. Expired
>>> proseal will last for over a year after its expiration date (even
>>> a lot
>>> longer if kept in the freezer or in cooler storage).
>>> -Mike
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>>> Carpenter
>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 8:47 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>>
>>> I beg to differ Mike...
>>>
>>> The proseal I worked with on my trim tabs hadn't even gotten to its
>>> expiration date... but instead of a two hour window to be able to
>>> work with it, I had about 15 minutes... and barely made it through
>>> the tabs before it hardened.
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
>>>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>>
>>>> Well, it only needs to be fresh for sealing fuel tanks..... I'd
>>>> find
>>>> someone with some expired but still soft proseal that they are
>>>> willing
>>>> to let go for like $10. Trust me, if it is soft and not cured
>>>> in the
>>>> cans, it will work for well over a year after the expiration
>>>> date. I
>>>> just wouldn't use it to seal a fuel tank...
>>>> -Mike
>>>> RV-4 flying
>>>> RV-10 building
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>>>> Carpenter
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 7:47 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10 FL
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
>>>> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>>>
>>>> you need that too...
>>>>
>>>> but don't order it until about a week before you're going to use
>>>> it.
>>>> It needs to be fresh.
>>>>
>>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>>> 40304
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 9, 2005, at 4:21 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks guys for the fast answer,in the preview plans I have ,its a
>>>>> mention about proseal,it is come with the kit?
>>>>> hugo
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | RE: W1029 bracket problem |
Figured it out, with the left and right brackets mislabeled I assumed that the
a/b was also mislabeled. On closer inspection of one of the exploded diagrams
I noticed that one side has the extra hole and the other doesn't. Lines up great
now.
Michael
do not archive
________________________________
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: W1029 bracket problem
Ok, couple problems here. In section 14, my w-1029a/b bracket holes aren't even
close to lining up with the holes on the rib flange. Also the bracket seems
to be too long. The individual 1029's showed up completely mis-labeled and
I put them together according to which had the extra, large hole in it. Which
actually brings me to a third item, which wing does the completed bracket with
the extra hole belong in? The plans show both different brackets for the left
wing so it's not exactly consistent.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing Ribs
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
She's not. She's a US Marine and the 2nd female graduate of the
Citadel. And she's having almost as much fun building this thing as I am.
PJ
do not archive
Roger Standley wrote:
> PJ, is your wife by chance a flight attendant with United?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* PJ Seipel <mailto:seipel@seznam.cz>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 09, 2005 3:44 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft
> center sections?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz
> <mailto:seipel@seznam.cz>>
>
> I'm actually building it here in the good old USA. But my wife is
> Czech. (and yes, I am already thinking about how I'm going to fly it
> over there to visit her family...)
>
> PJ
> 40032
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com <mailto:Tdawson@Avidyne.com>>
> >
> >
> >You don't see that email domain every day . . .
> >
> >Where are you building that thing?
> >
> >TDT
> >40025
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 1stLt
> Seipel,
> >Patrick J.
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 12:50 PM
> >To: RV10-List@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-List@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
> >sections?
> >
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by:
> =?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?> <Seipel@seznam.cz <mailto:Seipel@seznam.cz>>
> >
> >On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd
> and aft center sections with spacers in between. As far as I can
> see, they don't call out the bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't
> want to use the actual spar attach bolts. So does anyone have
> handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need to use?
> Or is there some other/better way to do this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > PJ
> > #40032
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > =========================nbsp; Photoshare, and much much
> ;
> ===============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I had planned on running 2 AWG wire for both + and - from two Odyssey
680 batteries in the rear. I thought that the Aeroelectric book
recommended that but if I don't have to than that would save some
weight. I just wasn't sure how I would ground it in the back. I worry
that the ground during startup won't be solid. My thoughts are to take
the negative ground from the battery to the grounding block. That way,
everything will be grounded in the same spot except the nav lights,
heated pitot, and anything else that Knuckles says that won't cause any
noise in the system. But basically everything will be grounded at the
firewall.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Where is everyone placing their battery buss? Are you using 2AWG for +
and - going up to the firewall?
-Sean #40303
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
> smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
> additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
> related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
> and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
> considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
> redundancy.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
> and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
> can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
> got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
> route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
> pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
> up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
> in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
> slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
> I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
> be moving quite fast again.
>
> Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Rick wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see,
if
>>
> has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
>> rick S.
>> 40185
>> Wings
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
That's one minor complaint about the Aeroelectric book - it has a fair amount of
bias towards "plastic" airplanes. Albeit that plastic airplanes have more complex
needs for grounding, etc, so they need more pages to cover that info .
. .
TDT
40025
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I had planned on running 2 AWG wire for both + and - from two Odyssey
680 batteries in the rear. I thought that the Aeroelectric book
recommended that but if I don't have to than that would save some
weight. I just wasn't sure how I would ground it in the back. I worry
that the ground during startup won't be solid. My thoughts are to take
the negative ground from the battery to the grounding block. That way,
everything will be grounded in the same spot except the nav lights,
heated pitot, and anything else that Knuckles says that won't cause any
noise in the system. But basically everything will be grounded at the
firewall.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Where is everyone placing their battery buss? Are you using 2AWG for +
and - going up to the firewall?
-Sean #40303
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
> smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
> additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
> related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
> and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
> considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
> redundancy.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
> and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
> can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
> got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
> route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
> pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
> up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
> in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
> slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
> I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
> be moving quite fast again.
>
> Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Rick wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see,
if
>>
> has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
>> rick S.
>> 40185
>> Wings
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
Like everything, there's good and bad. The airframe makes a great
ground. Just use a star (inside or outside, doesn't matter) between the
ring terminal (for whatever size wire you use) and the frame. This
assures you have a good mechanical connection. Some electrical grease
won't hurt either and may prevent corrosion problems down the road. And
you save weight as has been noted. Everywhere.
If you elect to run cable forward to a ground block near the panel,
you're assured of a good ground for your electronics. Now you have to
decide if you want to run ground wires out to the wings, tail etc .....
but they add more weight. The fuselage ground has more area than your
ground cable to the cockpit so that's something else to consider.
My only caution ....... do not scrimp on the cable from the battery to
the starter. That's the wrong place to save weight. If you can get
some welding cable, that would be better as they have many more strands
than standard heavy-duty wire.
Best of luck,
Linn
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
>I had planned on running 2 AWG wire for both + and - from two Odyssey
>680 batteries in the rear. I thought that the Aeroelectric book
>recommended that but if I don't have to than that would save some
>weight. I just wasn't sure how I would ground it in the back. I worry
>that the ground during startup won't be solid. My thoughts are to take
>the negative ground from the battery to the grounding block. That way,
>everything will be grounded in the same spot except the nav lights,
>heated pitot, and anything else that Knuckles says that won't cause any
>noise in the system. But basically everything will be grounded at the
>firewall.
>
>Scott Schmidt
>sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 12:01 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>Where is everyone placing their battery buss? Are you using 2AWG for +
>and - going up to the firewall?
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>>
>>
><bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>
>>Tim,
>>
>>Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
>>smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
>>additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
>>related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
>>and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
>>considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
>>redundancy.
>>
>>Bob #40105
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 9:52 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
>>and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
>>can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
>>got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
>>route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
>>pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
>>up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
>>in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
>>slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
>>I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
>>be moving quite fast again.
>>
>>Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Rick wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>>Tim,
>>>
>>>I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see,
>>>
>>>
>if
>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>>
>>
>>
>>>rick S.
>>>40185
>>>Wings
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
For what it's worth, I flew my RV-6 for 5 years with ground wire returns
from everything, including the strobe supplies in the wing tips, lights,
everything.
Then I went in and did a weight reduction program on it, including
making all the grounds at the point nearest the item.
In addition to removing 50 lbs from the airframe, I noticed absolutely
no difference in 'noise' or operation of anything, and this is still
holding true 3 years later.
So, my opinion is that it is OK to ground to the airframe and save the
weight of the return wires.
dw
94 RV-6 895hrs
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
Like everything, there's good and bad. The airframe makes a great
ground. Just use a star (inside or outside, doesn't matter) between the
ring terminal (for whatever size wire you use) and the frame. This
assures you have a good mechanical connection. Some electrical grease
won't hurt either and may prevent corrosion problems down the road. And
you save weight as has been noted. Everywhere.
If you elect to run cable forward to a ground block near the panel,
you're assured of a good ground for your electronics. Now you have to
decide if you want to run ground wires out to the wings, tail etc .....
but they add more weight. The fuselage ground has more area than your
ground cable to the cockpit so that's something else to consider.
My only caution ....... do not scrimp on the cable from the battery to
the starter. That's the wrong place to save weight. If you can get
some welding cable, that would be better as they have many more strands
than standard heavy-duty wire.
Best of luck,
Linn
Scott Schmidt wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
<sschmidt@ussynthetic.com> <mailto:sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
=09
I had planned on running 2 AWG wire for both + and - from two
Odyssey
680 batteries in the rear. I thought that the Aeroelectric book
recommended that but if I don't have to than that would save
some
weight. I just wasn't sure how I would ground it in the back.
I worry
that the ground during startup won't be solid. My thoughts are
to take
the negative ground from the battery to the grounding block.
That way,
everything will be grounded in the same spot except the nav
lights,
heated pitot, and anything else that Knuckles says that won't
cause any
noise in the system. But basically everything will be grounded
at the
firewall.
=09
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 39
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| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Carl:
If possible, I would like a copy as well. I am right at the point of the
wiring stage and like to look at as many options as possible. I have the
"aero" book but like to see others to note variations if applicable.
Thanks,
Byron
RV-10 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Froehlich
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich"
<carl.froehlich@cox.net>
I have a pair of Odyssey PC-625's in my RV-8A. The install supports
dual
electronic ignitions and an all electric panel. The design is based on
being able to continue IFR flight with the lost of the alternator and
one
battery until fuel exhaustion. If interested I'll send the power
distribution diagram.
Although the normal mode is to have both batteries on line, I have done
some
single battery op tests. One battery spins my O-360 just fine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200 hrs), RV-10 on the wish list
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the
additional battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the
related additional contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation
and you're far lighter than the big Odyssey batteries that you're
considering. Upside is that you'll get an additional layer of
redundancy.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned
and regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that
can push maybe 20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein
got a couple good ones for OSH...man were they big. I can go that
route, but I figured if I needed a battery anyway, I may as well
pick one up and just use it and have my 10A battery charger hooked
up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going
slow right now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once
I finsish some of these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll
be moving quite fast again.
Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if
has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
> rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Purchase |
Carl, can I also get a copy?
John 40404
In a message dated 8/10/2005 1:04:09 PM Central Standard Time,
carl.froehlich@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
I have a pair of Odyssey PC-625's in my RV-8A. The install supports dual
electronic ignitions and an all electric panel. The design is based on
being able to continue IFR flight with the lost of the alternator and one
battery until fuel exhaustion. If interested I'll send the power
distribution diagram.
Although the normal mode is to have both batteries on line, I have done some
single battery op tests. One battery spins my O-360 just fine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200 hrs), RV-10 on the wish list
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Battery Purchase |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Carl,
I'd also like a copy
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Gillespie
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Carl:
If possible, I would like a copy as well. I am right at the point of the
wiring stage and like to look at as many options as possible. I have the
"aero" book but like to see others to note variations if applicable.
Thanks,
Byron
RV-10 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich"
<carl.froehlich@cox.net>
I have a pair of Odyssey PC-625's in my RV-8A. The install supports dual
electronic ignitions and an all electric panel. The design is based on
being able to continue IFR flight with the lost of the alternator and one
battery until fuel exhaustion. If interested I'll send the power
distribution diagram.
Although the normal mode is to have both batteries on line, I have done some
single battery op tests. One battery spins my O-360 just fine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200 hrs), RV-10 on the wish list
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Another option is the route I'm going - I decided to go with a pair of
smaller PC-680s and use the Z-14 approach. Weight penalty of the additional
battery is only ~6 pounds over the Concorde. Add in the related additional
contactor(s) depending on the exact implementation and you're far lighter
than the big Odyssey batteries that you're considering. Upside is that
you'll get an additional layer of redundancy.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Purchase
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh the supply of 12V isn't a problem....I have a 3A 12V conditioned and
regulated supply. The problem is that I want a supply that can push maybe
20-25A continuous for 15 minutes or more. Stein got a couple good ones for
OSH...man were they big. I can go that route, but I figured if I needed a
battery anyway, I may as well pick one up and just use it and have my 10A
battery charger hooked
up at the same time. I'm hoping that I'll be needing a battery
in the plane by the end of the year anyway. Things are going slow right
now, but I'm on multiple task branches....I think once I finsish some of
these branches and focus on single tasks, I'll be moving quite fast again.
Thanks to all for your input on the batteries.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> I use a computer power supply for bench work, pull one out and see, if
has a nice 12v power output and I'll bet you have one lying around.
>
> rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rear Step not aligned |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks guys, for the great responses on the rear step thing.
I think Dave Emond monitors the list, so he'll read them
here, but i forwarded them back to him too. He'll
appreciate your help I'm sure.
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Not sure what they do with the quick builds, but the block face has an
> angle to it so that it will align with the rib. On the SB the holes are
> drilled into the rib by putting the block on the step tube and then
> match drilling the rib to fit. Check angle and swap sides is the only
> advice that I've got.
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 11:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>
>
> If I remember right, there was an issue with these being uni
>
> directional, IE right and left, and during shipping they are in
>
> backwards? If I remember from previous posts...did he check the other
>
> side for fit?
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2005 1:23 PM
>
> To: RV10
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Rear Step not aligned
>
>
>
> This I'm passing on from another RV-10 Builder...Dave Emond.
>
> It's regarding a QB Fuselage.
>
>
>
> "I am experiencing an alignment problem with the steps. If I insert the
>
> step into the weldment, the UHMW block that fits onto the step shaft and
>
>
>
> then bolts onto the rib, doesn't align with the holes in the rib. Did
>
> you experience any similar problem?"
>
>
>
> He sent a photo....see attached.
>
>
>
> His UHMW block was pre-attached, just like mine, but his step
>
> doesn't slide in straight.
>
>
>
> Is there anyone out there who's had this situation or might have
>
> advice? He's currently waiting for advice from Van's.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center sections? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
PJ
I'm flying to Ireland, so should be no problem to go a little farther to
Czeck. Actually I'm planning to go on to Belarus to see some friends.
Sounds like an over the water, Greenland, Iceland, trip in the future. How
are you in close formation?
Bob K
That's why we are building 10s. To go where no man in his right mind would
want to go.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PJ Seipel
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
sections?
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
She's not. She's a US Marine and the 2nd female graduate of the
Citadel. And she's having almost as much fun building this thing as I am.
PJ
do not archive
Roger Standley wrote:
> PJ, is your wife by chance a flight attendant with United?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* PJ Seipel <mailto:seipel@seznam.cz>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 09, 2005 3:44 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft
> center sections?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz
> <mailto:seipel@seznam.cz>>
>
> I'm actually building it here in the good old USA. But my wife is
> Czech. (and yes, I am already thinking about how I'm going to fly it
> over there to visit her family...)
>
> PJ
> 40032
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com <mailto:Tdawson@Avidyne.com>>
> >
> >
> >You don't see that email domain every day . . .
> >
> >Where are you building that thing?
> >
> >TDT
> >40025
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of 1stLt
> Seipel,
> >Patrick J.
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 12:50 PM
> >To: RV10-List@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-List@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV10-List: Bolts to put together the fwd and aft center
> >sections?
> >
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by:
> =?us-ascii?Q?1stLt=20Seipel=2C=20Patrick=20J?> <Seipel@seznam.cz <mailto:Seipel@seznam.cz>>
> >
> >On page 28-8 in the plans, they show you bolting together the fwd
> and aft center sections with spacers in between. As far as I can
> see, they don't call out the bolts, and I'm pretty sure I don't
> want to use the actual spar attach bolts. So does anyone have
> handy the sizes of hardware store bolts that I would need to use?
> Or is there some other/better way to do this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > PJ
> > #40032
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > =========================nbsp; Photoshare, and much much
> ;
> ===============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Pan American tools, I think was 24 cents. Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: clecoes
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Try Aircraft tool supply, I think they may be $.32 Welcome to the world of
cleco sticker shock.
Rick S.
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