Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:16 AM - Re: Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown (Mike Kraus)
2. 03:57 AM - Re: Questions (Russell Daves)
3. 04:48 AM - Re: Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
4. 04:55 AM - DRD2 Dimpler (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
5. 05:57 AM - Re: engine mount & IO-540-C4B5 (BPA)
6. 06:19 AM - Questions answered (bob.kaufmann)
7. 06:31 AM - Re: Questions (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
8. 06:31 AM - Re: AHRS mounting (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 04:57 PM - Re: MEK'd Rivets (Marcus Cooper)
10. 05:19 PM - Re: Questions (bob.kaufmann)
11. 05:20 PM - Re: MEK'd Rivets (bob.kaufmann)
12. 06:10 PM - Re: MEK'd Rivets (Sean Blair)
13. 07:31 PM - Cogsdill deburrers (Bill and Tami Britton)
14. 07:46 PM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Larry Rosen)
15. 08:00 PM - Re: MEK'd Rivets (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
16. 08:46 PM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Darton Steve)
17. 09:09 PM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Jim Beyer)
18. 09:18 PM - Re: MEK'd Rivets (Deems Davis)
19. 09:57 PM - GTX330 antennas (DejaVu)
20. 10:10 PM - Re: GTX330 antennas (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
21. 10:34 PM - GTX330 Antennas (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown |
I have a Monroy in my RV-4. It works great and I would recommend it.
-Mike Kraus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown
Anyone installing a Mode-S Xponder? Tony Sustare alerted me on some 60
stations already shutdown in the East Coast and possibly more to come.
Further info at http://www.surecheckaviation.com/ .
Also, I would appreciate any insight that you may have on the
TrafficScope VRX as an alternative. It sells for $795 and works off of
other aircraft transponder pings.
Anh
#141
Message 2
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Table 5' x 12'
Frame built into table and upright arm goes down about 3' to a cross member. Arm
is completly welded with DRD2 attached as shown. Worked great.
Russ Daves
N710RV (Reserved) on main gear
N65RV (RV-6A Sold)
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Blair
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 10:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a
lot of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with by
myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and deburring,
then dimpling without the initial construction with final drilling? Any
problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown |
Just saw something the other day on the "Parivize" traffic detector. It sits on
your glareshield and uses 3 cameras and missile-tracking algorithms to detect
traffic ahead of you optically and alert you to it and it's bearing. Cleverly,
that let's you detect people who don't have a transponder operating. Spruce
has it for about $1500, I think.
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown
Anyone installing a Mode-S Xponder? Tony Sustare alerted me on some 60 stations already shutdown in the East Coast and possibly more to come. Further info at http://www.surecheckaviation.com/ .
Also, I would appreciate any insight that you may have on the TrafficScope VRX
as an alternative. It sells for $795 and works off of other aircraft transponder
pings.
Anh
#141
Message 4
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Sean,
I've got the DRD2 Dimpler mounted to a table I build with a sheet of =BE inch plywood
as the top. I measured the bottom of the dimpler and cut a hole just big
enough to slip it into. Then, I built a box underneath to sit the dimpler
down in. Now my dimple dies are the only thing that sticks up above the surface
of the table. This seems to work so far, I've used this setup for the empecone
and left wing so far. I can now dimple twice as fast as I could with the
old C Dimpler, makes a huge speed difference and the dimples are more uniform
as well.
Dennis Millsap
RV-6A, N464DM
RV-10, 40112
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a lot
of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with by myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and deburring,
then dimpling without the initial construction with final drilling? Any
problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
Message 5
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| Subject: | engine mount & IO-540-C4B5 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
John, The Cold Air Induction system will knock off 10 lbs over the stock
D4A5 sump. It is made of magnesium and the intake tubes are seamless
stainless that are custom bent for us. The system can be used on either
parallel or angle head engines. There are several hundred of these
systems being used since we developed the system. The biggest advantage
to the CAS is the ram air recovery because of the forward facing servo.
It is going to require both Gen II cowl and John Forsling exhaust
system. We have done some pretty extensive testing on our dyno with
John's exhaust (several different lengths) to get the right package. The
cowling is the part of the package that is taking the longest to nail
down. Without going into specifics, we are doing extensive cad work and
simulations to determine the best cowl to include with the package.
Yes, the new engines kits we offer all have the roller cam and lifters.
All of our engines, certified or experimental, are dynamically balanced
to ANSI grade 2.5 by FAA approved process. In fact, we were the first
engine overhaul facility to get FAA approval for balancing.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
(918) 835-1089 phone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: engine mount & IO-540-C4B5
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
One step farther on your plug. (Please accept my apology in advance to
the RV-10 list as we are now getting to the beef... I have no connection
with BPA yet). Doesn't the forward facing Cold Induction system save
some of those additional 60 additional pounds and then require the
Generation II modified cowl design with John Forsling's tuned exhaust
routing and collector?
And will your new Lycoming offering provide the Thielert roller
lifters?
Thanks for the specifics.
John Cox - KUAO
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
Subject: RE: RV10-List: engine mount & IO-540-C4B5
--> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
Certainly. First and foremost, the angle head 540 as in an "E" model,
weighs roughly 60 lbs. more than a parallel head 540 D4A5. Some of this
is due to the additional weight of the cylinders. An angle head
cylinder, by design, has more cooling fins than a parallel head,
allowing better cooling capability, but is at a weight disadvantage
because of the bigger head. The angle head cylinder weighs about 7.5 lbs
more than the parallel head. This is only 45 lbs, but by the time you
add the additional weight of longer intake tubes, different sump etc, it
gets right on up there. It also is wider than the D4A5, but not more
than about an inch. Another issue is height of the engine. The angle
head engine is almost an inch taller.
WIDE DECK/NARROW DECK
I do not understand the narrow deck, wide deck issue. I will tell you
that it is almost impossible to find a good run out narrow deck core to
overhaul, and you certainly can't buy a new narrow deck engine, because
they don't make them anymore. All engines from Lycoming are now wide
deck engines. The weight issue doesn't come into play because the
difference is negligible. It's probably not more than the difference in
a Kelly Aerospace vs B&C or Skytech starter. There is a difference in
the governor drives between a narrow deck and wide deck.
POWER INCREASES:
I could be WAY off base here, but it is probable the IO-540 D4A5 is the
engine used in the prototype RV-10. All the performance numbers were
gained using this engine and therefore any power increases would be (in
Van's defense) uncharted waters. However, if I were building an aircraft
that I wanted to market to the masses, I would have a very large margin
of safety as far as horsepower is concerned, meaning there would be some
room for improvements. How many people know that the very first Pitts
had a 4 cylinder Continental engine?
On a side note, we are currently in the process of developing a complete
RV-10 package consisting of our forward facing Cold Air Induction, John
Forsling exhaust and a custom cowl to increase performance and cooling
issues. Stay tuned to this development because we're getting close.
We also have been chosen to offer the NEW OEM Lycoming engines available
to the experimental market. These engines are built with ALL NEW
Lycoming parts. The kits are available from 150-300 HP and available
with several accessory packages and performance modifications. If
interested, call or email us.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
(918) 835-1089
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: engine mount & IO-540-C4B5
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Mr. Barrett, I believe there are a couple of additional questions
lurking (within the build community) as to installed engine weight and
dimensional width within the stock VAN's RV-10 cowl as well, but I am
not sure.
The official position posted was I believe, no wide deck, no angled
valve, no additional power output, no installed weight increase beyond
the IO-540-D4A5... but I may be reading too much into the recommended
limitations.
Can you expand our knowledge?
John Cox
Message 6
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| Subject: | Questions answered |
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
I've been doing the ream and dimple, and so far it has been great. I think
it saves a lot of time, just wish I had bought a speed deburrer, coghill,
but to late now. I would if I was just starting, get one in both the 30 and
40 size to go with my 30 and 40 reamers. Both Rick and I have a different
type of a "c" frame application. We take and use 2 inch foam and set the c
frame into it. It speeds it up a little and makes handling the material
easier. The idea came from Rick, I was going to let it into a table like
Russ, but Rick's idea was better. It also breaks down into a 4" wide
package and goes away, so space can be used differently. I'm still in an
oversized one car garage, and working on the fuselage floor, going to skin
it Thurs night. Droppy, I have reamers for you, come on by when you are on
day shift.
Bob K
Break Break Nice hanger Russ.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
I've tried reaming on a few parts with good results, fellow Vegas builder
Bob K. has had good results on his fuselage floor so far, Russ Daves has
done it for almost all of his build. My only advice would be to make sure
you don't miss any drilled in assembly steps that you might not be able do
if you start assembling and riveting things for the first time. So far all
my hole have lined up perfectly so in theory it should work fine.
No help on your dimple table....I used the ole hammer and C-frame
method.....screw the neighbors!!! IMHO I would go with that new fangled DRTS
thingy if I had to do it again just for my own peace and quiet plus it has a
better reach and I hear better dimples.
Rick S.
40185
Message 7
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My quick and dirty design was to nail a 4x6 to the end of one of my workbenches
so the dimple die was at about the same height as the bench top. I then just
slide another workbench up to it. Let's me remove it or move it around without
a problem.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a lot
of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with by myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and deburring,
then dimpling without the initial construction with final drilling? Any
problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
Message 8
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Resend for David....
________________________________
| From: | RV Builder (Michael Sausen) |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AHRS mounting
David,
On the AMSAFE reels, are you also going with their airbag? Where did you get
them and what are those going for nowadays? I'm interested in using inertial
reels but I don't like the idea of using regular vehicle style as I don't know
how well they engage at different attitudes.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
Do not archive
Message 9
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John,
I don't know about engineering issues, but if you are like me and are
prone to using your mouth as a storage unit while riveting, I'd keep the
MED'd rivets out of the regular stash.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
Hey all,
Just leak tested my left tank (right tank is still curing and I'm going to
wait... Thanks Tim) and no leaks so far!! As I clean up my proseal mess, I
have a bunch of -4 rivets that I've cleaned and soaked in MEK that I didn't
use. Are there any issues with throwing them back in with the others or does
the oil I took off (or the MEK itself) pose some sort of long term storage
or usage issue?
Thanks,
John
#40208 finally done w/ the tanks!!
Message 10
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My process is simple, I look at the plans and find the parts. I look at the
blue and take it off. I look at the holes and ream them. I deburr both
sides. I dimple them if that's what the plans say, and then for the first
time I put them together and rivet them. I spend a little more time going
over the plans to make sure I don't screw up a process in the works and then
go for it. So far all is well and I would rather drill out a few rivets, I
think, than spend all that time preassembling and disassembling.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
My quick and dirty design was to nail a 4x6 to the end of one of my
workbenches so the dimple die was at about the same height as the bench top.
I then just slide another workbench up to it. Let's me remove it or move it
around without a problem.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a
lot of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with
by myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and
deburring, then dimpling without the initial construction with final
drilling? Any problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
Message 11
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The saliva on the rivets is a serious corrosive, one of the few things that
eats aluminum. Bob K
MEK only eats brain cells.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
John,
I don't know about engineering issues, but if you are like me and are
prone to using your mouth as a storage unit while riveting, I'd keep the
MED'd rivets out of the regular stash.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
Hey all,
Just leak tested my left tank (right tank is still curing and I'm going to
wait... Thanks Tim) and no leaks so far!! As I clean up my proseal mess, I
have a bunch of -4 rivets that I've cleaned and soaked in MEK that I didn't
use. Are there any issues with throwing them back in with the others or does
the oil I took off (or the MEK itself) pose some sort of long term storage
or usage issue?
Thanks,
John
#40208 finally done w/ the tanks!!
Message 12
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Thanks for all of the responses everyone! I think I'll try the big shortcut
and see how it goes. A table for the DRD2 is also high on the list, I got
some good ideas from your posts.
I guess if you want to hold rivets in your mouth you could gargle with
Quaker State first.
Sean
N967SB
(reserved)
Message 13
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
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| Subject: | Cogsdill deburrers |
I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for the first time and the tension
is too tight on it. It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring. Is
there a tension adjustment on them???
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor waiting
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
You can loosen the set screw and move the narrow shaft with the blade
out. In the narrow shaft there is a hole that a spring loaded pin sets
in. The end of the pin near the blade puts pressure on the back side of
the blade providing the tension.
I know because the other day I broke a blade on my #40 and had to
replace it. Removing the pin that looks like a speck of dirt was taxing
to re-insert. Loosening the tension should be much easier.
Larry Rosen
#356
http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for the first time and
> the tension is too tight on it. It nearly countersunk the piece I was
> deburring. Is there a tension adjustment on them???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137
> Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor waiting
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: MEK'd Rivets |
In a message dated 8/16/2005 9:12:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
seanblair@adelphia.net writes:
I think I=E2=80=99ll try the big shortcut and see how it goes.
It may not be that big of a short cut. If you dont cleco, you have to
drill twice as many times, since you are NOT going through both pieces
together. You are skipping a step, and possibly missing a chance to make things
layout perfectly... What is the gain? Why do so many people do it one way?
Just a thought....
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder (almost) tools in hand.../ Cessna
170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Bill,
In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get the
correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it back
in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the "ball
park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
revolutions each side.
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
> I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for
> the first time and the tension is too tight on it.
> It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring. Is
> there a tension adjustment on them???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137
> Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
> waiting
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Steve,
I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the burraway? And with what type of
tool? By saying you're done in two revolutions, I'm guessing you you have it
chucked in a cordless screwdriver type drill vice an pneumatic drill that is
spinning thousands of RPMs. True?
TIA,
-Jim
On 8/16/05, Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> Bill,
> In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get the
> correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
> down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
> turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it back
> in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the "ball
> park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
> personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
> revolutions each side.
> Steve 40212 Wings
>
> --- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
>
> > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for
> > the first time and the tension is too tight on it.
> > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring. Is
> > there a tension adjustment on them???
> >
> > Bill Britton
> > RV-10 #40137
> > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
> > waiting
> >
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
--
o\o
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: MEK'd Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I've also been tempted to try the "no-cleco" route as the number of
mindless, repetitive, mundane tasks are sometimes exhausting, but I too
wonder what the real gain is. I'm just finishing the tailcone, and I
don't know how you would get the stiffeners & longerons drilled
accurately without assembling 1st. Maybe the repeat offenders are more
experienced at this, but even with the read twice- cut/drill once, I
still find that I occasionally miss a step/detail in the plans,
particularly the " Do not ---- drill/dimple/ bend, etc. I worry that
if I short cut the well laid out plans, I might find having hurried past
a "Do Not ........ something or other"
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/16/2005 9:12:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> seanblair@adelphia.net writes:
>
> I think Ill try the big shortcut and see how it goes.
>
> It may not be that big of a short cut. If you dont cleco, you
> have to drill twice as many times, since you are NOT going through
> both pieces together. You are skipping a step, and possibly missing a
> chance to make things layout perfectly... What is the gain? Why do so
> many people do it one way? Just a thought....
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Steve
>
> Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder (almost) tools in hand.../
> Cessna 170B flyer
> 766 SE River Lane
> Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
Message 19
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For those using the GTX-330 Xponder, where do you install the upper antenna?
Anh
#141
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Anh:
You don't need an upper antenna unless you are trying to fulfill European certification
requirements for "diversity" with transponders, which isn't really applicable
to us little guys. Anyway, the second antenna would be useless unless
you bought the GTX330D model, which supports diversity, and will cost you some
extra bucks. ($7000 versus $3500 at Spruce)
Wait until you get your King Air to worry about that . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: GTX330 antennas
For those using the GTX-330 Xponder, where do you install the upper antenna?
Anh
#141
Message 21
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TDT, thanks for the clarification - brain overload from reading on a lot of different
systems. Anh
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