Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:03 AM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (BBreckenridge@att.net)
2. 06:10 AM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Darton Steve)
3. 06:43 AM - Fiberglass resin & cloth (John Testement)
4. 06:44 AM - Falcon pitot tube (John Testement)
5. 06:48 AM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (gary schneider)
6. 07:01 AM - Re: Re: Cogsdill deburrers (John Jessen)
7. 07:05 AM - Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth (Tim Olson)
8. 07:08 AM - Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth (linn walters)
9. 07:12 AM - Re: Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Sean Stephens)
10. 07:20 AM - Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Deems Davis)
11. 07:20 AM - Re: MEK'd Rivets (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 07:25 AM - Re: Re: Cogsdill deburrers (Deems Davis)
13. 07:26 AM - Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
14. 07:46 AM - Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
15. 08:03 AM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (Stein Bruch)
16. 09:50 AM - Window Installation and more (Tim Olson)
17. 10:40 AM - Headliner rework (Tim Olson)
18. 10:44 AM - Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth (Tim Olson)
19. 10:45 AM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (Tim Olson)
20. 11:49 AM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 12:01 PM - Batteries - Again... (Tim Olson)
22. 12:07 PM - Re: Batteries - Again... (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
23. 12:28 PM - Re: Batteries - Again... (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
24. 02:48 PM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (Warren Gretz)
25. 03:08 PM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (Dj Merrill)
26. 03:10 PM - Weight and Balance (Jeff Carpenter)
27. 03:25 PM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
28. 03:27 PM - Re: Falcon pitot tube (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
29. 03:44 PM - Need distance between main gear on RV10...quick! (Brian Denk)
30. 04:10 PM - Re: Need distance between main gear on RV10...quick! (Phil Hall)
31. 04:46 PM - Re: Weight and Balance (Mark)
32. 04:58 PM - Re: Weight and Balance (Rene Felker)
33. 05:02 PM - Re: Weight and Balance (John Hasbrouck)
34. 05:06 PM - Re: Weight and Balance (Rene Felker)
35. 06:01 PM - Re: Weight and Balance (Jim Combs)
36. 11:30 PM - Getting Trim System to work ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV10-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me when
I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was adjusted at
the factory?
Bruce
empecone
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Jim,
You are correct, I use a De Walt 9.6V cordless for
deburring and almost all my match drilling. I hardly
use my pneumatic drill, the cordless is more
comfortable and convenient.
By the way I have some extra .125, .156 & .187
Burraway's I would like to sell. If any one would like
any of these sizes e-mail me directly.
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Jim Beyer <fehdxl@gmail.com> wrote:
> Steve,
> I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the
> burraway? And with what type of
> tool? By saying you're done in two revolutions, I'm
> guessing you you have it
> chucked in a cordless screwdriver type drill vice an
> pneumatic drill that is
> spinning thousands of RPMs. True?
> TIA,
> -Jim
>
>
> On 8/16/05, Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Bill,
> > In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get
> the
> > correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
> > down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
> > turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it
> back
> > in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the
> "ball
> > park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
> > personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
> > revolutions each side.
> > Steve 40212 Wings
> >
> > --- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day
> for
> > > the first time and the tension is too tight on
> it.
> > > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring.
> Is
> > > there a tension adjustment on them???
> > >
> > > Bill Britton
> > > RV-10 #40137
> > > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
> > > waiting
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ____________________________________________________
> page
> >
> >
> >
> >
> =====================================
> =====================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> o=\o
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fiberglass resin & cloth |
I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like to
know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are ordering (I
assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy? What
would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
Message 4
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| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube? The
were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449 with the
RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein is selling.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "gary schneider" <mialma@theriver.com>
Hi Guys, were did you get you Burraway's, I have my kit is due 9/10
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill deburrers
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> Jim,
> You are correct, I use a De Walt 9.6V cordless for
> deburring and almost all my match drilling. I hardly
> use my pneumatic drill, the cordless is more
> comfortable and convenient.
> By the way I have some extra .125, .156 & .187
> Burraway's I would like to sell. If any one would like
> any of these sizes e-mail me directly.
> Steve 40212 Wings
>
> --- Jim Beyer <fehdxl@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the
>> burraway? And with what type of
>> tool? By saying you're done in two revolutions, I'm
>> guessing you you have it
>> chucked in a cordless screwdriver type drill vice an
>> pneumatic drill that is
>> spinning thousands of RPMs. True?
>> TIA,
>> -Jim
>>
>>
>> On 8/16/05, Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
>> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> > Bill,
>> > In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get
>> the
>> > correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
>> > down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
>> > turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it
>> back
>> > in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the
>> "ball
>> > park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
>> > personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
>> > revolutions each side.
>> > Steve 40212 Wings
>> >
>> > --- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day
>> for
>> > > the first time and the tension is too tight on
>> it.
>> > > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring.
>> Is
>> > > there a tension adjustment on them???
>> > >
>> > > Bill Britton
>> > > RV-10 #40137
>> > > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
>> > > waiting
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> ____________________________________________________
>> page
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> =====================================
>> =====================================
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> o=\o
>>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Speaking of which, does anyone (yeah, I should just call the manufacturer)
know the proper RPM to be using with the Cogsdill?
John Jessen
(buildis interruptis)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BBreckenridge@att.net
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cogsdill deburrers
--> RV10-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me
when I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was
adjusted at the factory?
Bruce
empecone
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I haven't done any fairings yet, but I can say that you'll have
good luck with West System epoxy. http://www.westsystem.com/
I don't believe you'll need poly resin at all. West System
has a bunch of fillers available. My Tips page has info on
what was recommended to me, and it works real well. (See
the non-included options section)
Tim
John Testement wrote:
> I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like
> to know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are
> ordering (I assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or
> epoxy? What would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Finishing tail
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth |
John Testement wrote:
> I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like
> to know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are
> ordering (I assume from Aircraft Spruce).
Well, I've used both cloth and resin from my local boat store. West
Systems epoxy has worked really well, as well as the gel polyester
resin. I like the gel because it doesn't run like it's more liquid
cousin. Both liquid and gel seem to work out the same, and I use a
plastic squeegee to wet the cloth thoroughly. Same with the epoxy (no
gel). I think the epoxy will stick to polyester, but not the other way
around so plan accordingly. I'd also check with somebody else that does
a lot of glass work to make sure I didn't get it backwards ..... again.
> Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy?
I've used both and don't have any real preference.
> What would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
I'd use automotive glazing putty on small dents (there's Red Stuff and
Green Stuff), and lightweight body filler on larger areas.
Hope this helps.
Linn
do not archive
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Finishing tail
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Yes, you have to specify that you want the blade for aluminum. If you
did not specify that when ordered, odds are that's not the blade you
received.
There's info on how to adjust the bit along with info on the different
blade type on their website at the following URL:
<http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf>. You all read
that before using the bit right? :)
-Sean #40303
BBreckenridge@att.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me when
I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was adjusted
at the factory?
>
> Bruce
> empecone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Call them direct..
http://www.cogsdill.com/contact.html
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
gary schneider wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "gary schneider" <mialma@theriver.com>
>
> Hi Guys, were did you get you Burraway's, I have my kit is due 9/10
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 6:10 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill deburrers
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Jim,
>> You are correct, I use a De Walt 9.6V cordless for
>> deburring and almost all my match drilling. I hardly
>> use my pneumatic drill, the cordless is more
>> comfortable and convenient.
>> By the way I have some extra .125, .156 & .187
>> Burraway's I would like to sell. If any one would like
>> any of these sizes e-mail me directly.
>> Steve 40212 Wings
>>
>> --- Jim Beyer <fehdxl@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Steve, I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the
>>> burraway? And with what type of tool? By saying you're done in two
>>> revolutions, I'm
>>> guessing you you have it chucked in a cordless screwdriver type
>>> drill vice an
>>> pneumatic drill that is spinning thousands of RPMs. True? TIA,
>>> -Jim
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/16/05, Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
>>> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>>> > > Bill,
>>> > In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get
>>> the
>>> > correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
>>> > down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
>>> > turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it
>>> back
>>> > in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the
>>> "ball
>>> > park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
>>> > personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
>>> > revolutions each side.
>>> > Steve 40212 Wings
>>> > > --- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
>>> wrote:
>>> > > > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day
>>> for
>>> > > the first time and the tension is too tight on
>>> it.
>>> > > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring.
>>> Is
>>> > > there a tension adjustment on them???
>>> > >
>>> > > Bill Britton
>>> > > RV-10 #40137
>>> > > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
>>> > > waiting
>>> > >
>>> > > > > >
>>> ____________________________________________________
>>> page
>>> > > > > =====================================
>>> =====================================
>>> > > > > > > > > >
>>>
>>> --
>>> o=\o
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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|
This really doesn't work well in some areas. One example is below, where you
would still need to match drill something like stiffeners. On the wings though
the stiffeners are match drilled on the spar. As someone else stated, You will
need to ream twice as many holes which may or may not save time.
One area that I found where this will save time is the wing ribs. They have
you assemble the wing ribs and rivet them to the main spar before you final drill
them to the skin. This also means you need to dimple them after they have
been attached. I reamed the holes and dimpled them prior to riveting them to
the spar. Chucked the reamer in the drill press and went to town.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs (figuring out where to run the wiring)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I've also been tempted to try the "no-cleco" route as the number of mindless, repetitive,
mundane tasks are sometimes exhausting, but I too wonder what the real
gain is. I'm just finishing the tailcone, and I don't know how you would get
the stiffeners & longerons drilled accurately without assembling 1st. Maybe
the repeat offenders are more experienced at this, but even with the read twice-
cut/drill once, I still find that I occasionally miss a step/detail in the
plans, particularly the " Do not ---- drill/dimple/ bend, etc. I worry that
if I short cut the well laid out plans, I might find having hurried past a
"Do Not ........ something or other"
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/16/2005 9:12:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> seanblair@adelphia.net writes:
>
> I think I'll try the big shortcut and see how it goes.
>
> It may not be that big of a short cut. If you dont cleco, you
> have to drill twice as many times, since you are NOT going through
> both pieces together. You are skipping a step, and possibly missing a
> chance to make things layout perfectly... What is the gain? Why do so
> many people do it one way? Just a thought....
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Steve
>
> Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder (almost) tools in hand.../
> Cessna 170B flyer
> 766 SE River Lane
> Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Their catalogue/manual says " use the same speeds and feed rates that
you would use with a standard drill. The operator will soon acquire a
feel for themoderate rate of hand feeding that is required."
http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
John Jessen wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>Speaking of which, does anyone (yeah, I should just call the manufacturer)
>know the proper RPM to be using with the Cogsdill?
>
>John Jessen
> (buildis interruptis)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>BBreckenridge@att.net
>Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 9:02 AM
>To: RV10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cogsdill deburrers
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
>When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me
>when I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was
>adjusted at the factory?
>
>Bruce
>empecone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fiberglass resin & cloth |
For the work we are doing, use West System resin and hardener. Get some slow and
fast so you have options and make sure you get the universal pumps to make
it easy. As far as filler, stay away from the usual polyester (bondo) fillers
as they shrink over time and use epoxy resin with a filler mixed in. For structural
type of stuff you would use milled glass or cotton also known as flock.
For the non-structural filler use glass balloons, also known as micro balloons
or just plain micro. You can also use other additives like Superfill, West
systems has a couple different kinds, talc powder, etc. Just do NOT use the
graphite powder.
You can get West System products from Spruce, any boat store, or even possibly
a local West Marine store. Check around before you pay shipping. West has a
good pamphlet that you can get in their stores on how to mix resin for different
tasks and I highly recommend it if you have no prior experience or if it's
been a while.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
(shh, don't tell anyone I almost built a plastic airplane)
________________________________
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass resin & cloth
I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like to know
which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are ordering (I assume from
Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy? What would you recommend
using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fiberglass resin & cloth |
I think Van's used the West System Epoxy for the lid and other fairings. It
is best by far to use Epoxy with Epoxy, there are bonding issues with
Polyester over Epoxy.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass resin & cloth
I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like to
know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are ordering (I
assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy? What
would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
It is the same pitot tube, but we're switching form the Falcon to the Gretz
Heated Pitot. The Falcon tube is fine, but the Gretz tube offers some
improvements over the falcon tube and is cheaper at $425, and you can buy
them direct from Gretz if you choose.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:44 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube? The
were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449 with the
RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein is selling.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
Message 16
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| Subject: | Window Installation and more |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I haven't done a page update for a while, but today did a
good one.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050816/index.html
Last night I did my first 2 windows and I compiled a bunch of
good tips that Anh and Randy gave me. Boy did I learn a lot.
Wish I had been doing practince doors, as the next 2 I do will
turn out much better with less effort.
Also, I did the install of my Throttle quadrant, so I thought
some of you might want to see install photos of that.
One more thing is that I messed up my door handles, so there's
a warning here as well, along with a bunch of other stuff.
I'm trying to keep adding to the page as I can, but I've been
pretty swamped lately. The good news is, I'm pretty close to
putting the gear on, and mounting the engine.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 17
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| Subject: | Headliner rework |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Forgot to add...if you're looking at doing a headliner and you
followed my previous info, you will want to re-read and re-think
that a bit. Don't use 1/4" foam. A few days ago I tore out my
headliner and plan to use fabric like those Colorado -10's used.
It might be harder to install now with the canopy secured, but
I'll take photos and let you know.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
To add to Michael's great post....Westsystem.com does have a great
dealer directory. I found one within 1.2 hours away and drove there
one afternoon. There was another 50 minutes away but with no stock
on the one thing I needed.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> For the work we are doing, use West System resin and hardener. Get some
> slow and fast so you have options and make sure you get the
> universal pumps to make it easy. As far as filler, stay away from the
> usual polyester (bondo) fillers as they shrink over time and use epoxy
> resin with a filler mixed in. For structural type of stuff you would
> use milled glass or cotton also known as flock. For the non-structural
> filler use glass balloons, also known as micro balloons or just plain
> micro. You can also use other additives like Superfill, West systems
> has a couple different kinds, talc powder, etc. Just do NOT use the
> graphite powder.
>
> You can get West System products from Spruce, any boat store, or even
> possibly a local West Marine store. Check around before you pay
> shipping. West has a good pamphlet that you can get in their stores on
> how to mix resin for different tasks and I highly recommend it if you
> have no prior experience or if it's been a while.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 wing ribs
>
> (shh, don't tell anyone I almost built a plastic airplane)
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Testement
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:43 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fiberglass resin & cloth
>
> I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like
> to know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are
> ordering (I assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or
> epoxy? What would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Finishing tail
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Falcon pitot tube |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Are you set up to sell the new Gretz pitots yourself yet?
I know you said they'd probably cost the same from either place,
but you guys tend to get stuff out quicker.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Stein Bruch wrote:
> It is the same pitot tube, but we're switching form the Falcon to the
> Gretz Heated Pitot. The Falcon tube is fine, but the Gretz tube offers
> some improvements over the falcon tube and is cheaper at $425, and you
> can buy them direct from Gretz if you choose.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *John
> Testement
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
>
> Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube?
> The were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449
> with the RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein
> is selling.
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Finishing tail
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
Actually, two more things to add to this. One, Gretz should have some ready
to go again in about a week if anyone is ready to order. I ordered mine about
a week and a half ago and he said he was out but would have more in about two
weeks. Forgot what the price was but it was in the $400's without the mount.
Second is something that is bugging me with his specs and I'm hoping Stein or
someone can shed some light on this. Gretz is listing 7amp nominal and a 10amp
breaker for his pitot along with 14ga for wiring. Seems a bit heavy for the
wire as I believe 18ga can handle 10amp. I could see 16ga because of the long
run but not 14ga. Thoughts?
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Are you set up to sell the new Gretz pitots yourself yet?
I know you said they'd probably cost the same from either place, but you guys tend
to get stuff out quicker.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Stein Bruch wrote:
> It is the same pitot tube, but we're switching form the Falcon to the
> Gretz Heated Pitot. The Falcon tube is fine, but the Gretz tube
> offers some improvements over the falcon tube and is cheaper at $425,
> and you can buy them direct from Gretz if you choose.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *John
> Testement
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
>
> Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube?
> The were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449
> with the RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein
> is selling.
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Finishing tail
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Batteries - Again... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I've got a cool plan for batteries now, so I have to ask
a couple quick questions before I start to order....
For the odyssey, should I get the Metric flat style
connector, or the Auto-style post? The flat one is what
I'm guessing.
Do I really care for the "MJ" Metal Jacket series batteries,
or not? Part of me thinks "yes" since normally you'd find
a lead acid battery in a battey box. But, AGM and RG batteries
dont' required a battery box in other applications..since there's
not much free liquid in them. If I dont' need the MJ, I may
as well save the bucks.
Any help?
I'll post photos of my cool Aux. battery idea when it all comes
together. I found some wasted space, and the perfect way to
use it, and it's easier on the CG situation.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Batteries - Again... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
We're going to be using a couple small batteries from B&C as our Aux Battery.
They will sit on a little shelf on the cabin side of the firewall, with Aux contactor
and Crossfeed contactor sitting next to them on a little tray. The batteries
are only about 5 x 3 x 2.5 inch or so each. Two of them together make
24 volts . . .
Two Odyssey 680s in the back for the Main Batt.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Batteries - Again...
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I've got a cool plan for batteries now, so I have to ask
a couple quick questions before I start to order....
For the odyssey, should I get the Metric flat style
connector, or the Auto-style post? The flat one is what
I'm guessing.
Do I really care for the "MJ" Metal Jacket series batteries,
or not? Part of me thinks "yes" since normally you'd find
a lead acid battery in a battey box. But, AGM and RG batteries
dont' required a battery box in other applications..since there's
not much free liquid in them. If I dont' need the MJ, I may
as well save the bucks.
Any help?
I'll post photos of my cool Aux. battery idea when it all comes
together. I found some wasted space, and the perfect way to
use it, and it's easier on the CG situation.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Batteries - Again... |
For the Odyssey I wouldn't worry about the metal jacket as it's a dry cell battery
anyway. Probably just there to protect it from rogue baggage and stuff.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Batteries - Again...
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I've got a cool plan for batteries now, so I have to ask
a couple quick questions before I start to order....
For the odyssey, should I get the Metric flat style
connector, or the Auto-style post? The flat one is what
I'm guessing.
Do I really care for the "MJ" Metal Jacket series batteries,
or not? Part of me thinks "yes" since normally you'd find
a lead acid battery in a battey box. But, AGM and RG batteries
dont' required a battery box in other applications..since there's
not much free liquid in them. If I dont' need the MJ, I may
as well save the bucks.
Any help?
I'll post photos of my cool Aux. battery idea when it all comes
together. I found some wasted space, and the perfect way to
use it, and it's easier on the CG situation.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
> Hello:=0A > Michael is correct - I will have more pitot tubes=0A> in a couple weeks.=C2=A0 The price for heated is $425 and=0A> the price for unheated is $125.=0A > =C2=A0=0A > As for Michael's question:=0A > 14 ga was deemed the proper size of wire because the=0A> wire would most likely be=C2=A0run in a bundle and not=C2=A0=0A> in free air.=C2=A0 Also, you cannot buy a 7 amp breaker,=0A> =0A > =C2=A0=0A > Thanks.=0A > Warren Gretz=0A > Gretz Aero=0A> =0A RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder@sausen.net>=0A> wrote: =0A=0A> =C2=A0 Actually, two more things to add to this.=C2=A0 One,=0A> Gretz should have some ready to go again in about=0A> a week if anyone is ready to order. I ordered mine=0A> about a week and a half ago and he said he was out=0A> but would have more in about two weeks.=C2=A0 Forgot what=0A> the price was but it was in the $400's without the=0A> mount.=0A> =0A> =C2=A0 Second is something that is bugging me with his=0A> specs and I'm hoping Stein or someone can shed some=0A> light on this.=C2=A0 Gretz is listing 7amp nominal and=0A> a 10amp breaker for his pitot along with 14ga for=0A> wiring.=C2=A0 Seems a bit heavy for the wire as I believe=0A> 18ga can handle 10amp.=C2=A0 I could see 16ga because of=0A> the long run but not 14ga.=C2=A0 Thoughts?=0A> =0A> Michael Sausen=0A> -10 #352 wing ribs=0A> =0A> Do not archive=0A> =0A> -----Original Message-----=0A> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson=0A> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:45 PM=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Are you set up to sell the new Gretz pitots yourself=0A> yet?=0A> I know you said they'd probably cost the same from=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Tim Olson -- RV-10=C2=A0 #40170=0A> Current project: Doors/Windows=0A> DO NOT ARCHIVE=0A> =0A> =0A> Stein Bruch wrote:=0A> > It is the same pitot tube, but we're switching=0A> form the Falcon to the=0A> > Gretz Heated Pitot.=C2=A0 The Falcon tube is fine, but=0A> the Gretz tube=0A> > offers some improvements over the falcon tube and=0A> is cheaper at $425,=0A> =0A> >=C2=A0=0A> > Cheers,=0A> > Stein.=0A> >=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 -----Original Message-----=0A> =0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *John=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Testement=0A> =0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 *Subject:* RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube=0A> >=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Anyone have experinence or opinions on the=0A> Falcon heated pitot tube?=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 The were selling a heated 12v stainless steel=0A> pitot at OSK for $449=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 with the RV10 bracket. This may be the same=0A> pitot that Stein=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 is selling.=0A> >=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 John Testement=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 40321=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Finishing tail=0A> >=0A> >=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> RV10-List Email Forum -=0A> more:=0A> bsp;=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A=0A =0A> Warren Gretz Gretz Aero
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Falcon pitot tube |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
> The price for heated is $425 and the price for unheated is $125.
Just curious because I don't know about these things.
What makes the heating part of the pitot so expensive?
-Dj
Message 26
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| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
Will this be a problem?
100_3233.JPG
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Celebrating the completion of my Tail Cone
with an assist from my son Cody
Message 27
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| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
Warren, thanks for the reply. Didn't know you hung around this group.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Warren Gretz
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
Hello:
Michael is correct - I will have more pitot tubes in a couple weeks. The price
for heated is $425 and the price for unheated is $125.
As for Michael's question:
14 ga was deemed the proper size of wire because the wire would most likely be
run in a bundle and not in free air. Also, you cannot buy a 7 amp breaker, so
I had to go with a 10 amp breaker. Hope this helps.
Thanks.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
Actually, two more things to add to this. One, Gretz should have some
ready to go again in about a week if anyone is ready to order. I ordered mine
about a week and a half ago and he said he was out but would have more in about
two weeks. Forgot what the price was but it was in the $400's without the
mount.
=09
Second is something that is bugging me with his specs and I'm hoping
Stein or someone can shed some light on this. Gretz is listing 7amp nominal and
a 10amp breaker for his pitot along with 14ga for wiring. Seems a bit heavy
for the wire as I believe 18ga can handle 10amp. I could see 16ga because of
the long run but not 14ga. Thoughts?
=09
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
=09
Do not archive
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:45 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
=09
Are you set up to sell the new Gretz pitots yourself yet?
I know you said they'd probably cost the same from either place, but you
guys tend to get stuff out quicker.
=09
=09
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
=09
=09
Stein Bruch wrote:
> It is the same pitot tube, but we're switching form the Falcon to the
> Gretz Heated Pitot. The Falcon tube is fine, but the Gretz tube
> offers some improvements over the falcon tube and is cheaper at $425,
> and you can buy them direct from Gretz if you choose.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *John
> Testement
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:44 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
>
> Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube?
> The were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449
> with the RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein
> is selling.
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Finishing tail
>
>
=09
=09
=09
more:
bsp;
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
Warren Gretz Gretz Aero
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
The limited market. Seriously though, the Gretz tube has a built in thermostat
keeping it at a cozy 100 I believe. Also has a monitoring circuit with LED status
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
> The price for heated is $425 and the price for unheated is $125.
Just curious because I don't know about these things.
What makes the heating part of the pitot so expensive?
-Dj
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Need distance between main gear on RV10...quick! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Listers,
The builder of my airpark home is forming up the layout of the hangar ramp
in front of the hangar. With the cost of concrete going sky high lately, we
can't afford a full 46' width all the way out to the street. So, it's going
to be a "Y" shaped affair, going full width to the main slab at the door,
then tapering to a driveway of approx 12' out to the street. Will this be
enough? I looks like main gear width is maybe eight feet?
Thanks in advance.
Brian Denk
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Need distance between main gear on RV10...quick! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Phil Hall <phil@asibuildings.com>
Brian,
You need 8', so 12' is plenty.
Phil
At 10:43 PM 8/17/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>The builder of my airpark home is forming up the layout of the hangar ramp
>in front of the hangar. With the cost of concrete going sky high lately, we
>can't afford a full 46' width all the way out to the street. So, it's going
>to be a "Y" shaped affair, going full width to the main slab at the door,
>then tapering to a driveway of approx 12' out to the street. Will this be
>enough? I looks like main gear width is maybe eight feet?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Brian Denk
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance |
This looks like a much better idea that sandbags in the baggage compartment ;-)
Mark
Do Not Archive!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 5:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
Will this be a problem?
100_3233.JPG
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Celebrating the completion of my Tail Cone
with an assist from my son Cody
Message 32
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| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
Yes, if not for weight and balance, at the smell of dead body.
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
Will this be a problem?
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Nope! The -10 is nose haevy anyhow.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
Let me try that again.....typing challenged.....
Yes, if not for weight and balance, at least for the smell of the dead body.
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
Yes, if not for weight and balance, at the smell of dead body.
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
Will this be a problem?
Message 35
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| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
You will need to post a 2nd picture when you get the elevator pushrod installed!
Me thinks you will need a lot of down elevator in cruise flight. Flairs for
landing should not need much back stick!
Great picture!
Jim C
#40192
Message 36
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| Subject: | Getting Trim System to work |
Hi Guys
I have been trying to get the trim system to work =96 with limited
success. My best effort is 33=B0 down =96 instead of the 35=B0 required (right
side). The =91up=92-travel is 27=B0 - the required amount is not even
mentioned in the plans. I don=92t get both sides aligned in the 0=B0
position. I have checked the plans several times and can=92t find any
=91builder induced=92 error.
From those of you that have gone through this process I=92d like to know
if you had similar experiences and if so what the solution was.
Does anybody know the deflections? For a potentially nose heavy plane
I=92d rather know the exact up position than the down position.
Thanks in advance
Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
40280 Wings (& Trim System)
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
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