Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:11 AM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (linn walters)
2. 08:11 AM - Let The Music Begin (Sean Stephens)
3. 08:20 AM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (Rick)
4. 08:21 AM - Re: Elevator trim travel (Rick)
5. 08:26 AM - Re: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with (Rick)
6. 08:54 AM - Re: Let The Music Begin (Sean Stephens)
7. 09:00 AM - Re: Re: RV10 Kit For Sale (Gary Seaton)
8. 09:40 AM - Re: Let The Music Begin (Marcus Cooper)
9. 09:45 AM - Re: Let The Music Begin (James Hein)
10. 09:49 AM - Re: Let The Music Begin (Sean Stephens)
11. 09:50 AM - Re: Let The Music Begin (Jim Beyer)
12. 11:12 AM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (John Hasbrouck)
13. 11:35 AM - [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
14. 11:39 AM - Another aileron tip (John Hasbrouck)
15. 11:49 AM - Re: Another aileron tip (Sean Stephens)
16. 05:41 PM - Aileron hinge brackets (John Hasbrouck)
17. 06:25 PM - Re: Aileron hinge brackets (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 07:07 PM - Re: Aileron hinge brackets (John Hasbrouck)
19. 08:01 PM - cowl/fuse hinge shims (Marcus Cooper)
20. 10:32 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (DejaVu)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
John, take a look at Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42279.
The problem is that the drill bends too easily. Mark the holes on the
tube. Chuck these bits in your drill press and the tube in the drill
press vice. get the cone started and then switch to a regular drill bit
for size. I have the luxury of having a mill with a table to make
centering the countersink easier.
Linn
do not archive
John Erickson wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
> counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use an
> extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the drill
> bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot in
> the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger and
> realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill bit
> than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
> Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
> suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a
> hole in the steel tube?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> #40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates for
> my planned cuban 8... :)
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Let The Music Begin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
*http://tinyurl.com/c493e
Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
*-Sean #40303
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
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Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Elevator trim travel |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Yup...that's a "keeper" tip...I had the same issue.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 5
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aerobatics)
Subject: | Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with |
aerobatics)
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I back riveted my entire tailcone short of the top skins, and I used the little
plate from Cleaveland, I used towels to set the tailcone even with the top of
the plate and just moved along. Bottom first then one side then the other rolling
the tailcone over after eack side was completed to get to the other side....Sh*t.....I
said roll the tailcone didn't I!!!
In this case I would be guilty of rolling while deadstick....
My tailcone came out very nicely doing this.
Rick S.
40185
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hmm...
Guess the link was bad.
Here it is again in long form.
<http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/a-sound-idea/2005/08/18/1123958182084.html?oneclick=true>
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/c493e
>
> Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
>
> *-Sean #40303
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | RE: RV10 Kit For Sale |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
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The entire body of the message was removed. Please
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Message 8
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Subject: | Let The Music Begin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Sean,
I may not be doing something right, but even with the long link I just
get connected to a site to register for the Sydney Morning Herald???
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Let The Music Begin
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hmm...
Guess the link was bad.
Here it is again in long form.
<http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/a-sound-idea/2005/08/18/1123958182084.h
tml?oneclick=true>
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/c493e
>
> Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
>
> *-Sean #40303
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Geesh,
Ok, let's just try this link and let y'all get there on your own. :)
<http://science.slashdot.org/science/05/08/20/0138246.shtml?tid=126&tid=99&tid=14>
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Sean,
> I may not be doing something right, but even with the long link I just
> get connected to a site to register for the Sydney Morning Herald???
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Let The Music Begin
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Hmm...
>
> Guess the link was bad.
>
> Here it is again in long form.
>
> <http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/a-sound-idea/2005/08/18/1123958182084.h
> tml?oneclick=true>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> *http://tinyurl.com/c493e
>>
>> Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
>>
>> *-Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
Just a sound idea to keep an aircraft up
By Richard Macey
August 19, 2005
There have been singing birthday cards, singing cowboys and even a singing
detective.
Next could be the singing aircraft, or at least planes with singing wings.
A Qantas aerospace engineer has found a way to make small planes safer and
more efficient by turning their wings into flying speakers that can beat out
a tune.
To stay aloft, a plane must keep air flowing tightly over its wings. This is
not difficult in mid-flight, but can be tricky when traveling slowly for
take-off or landing,
To fly slowly, pilots raise the nose of the plane, says the engineer, Ian
Salmon. But if it is raised too high, air flowing over the wing can become
"detached" from the wing surface. The plane then risks stalling and possibly
crashing.
Mr Salmon said engineers had known since the 1940s that blasting a plane's
wings with sound helped keep air flowing over the wings. The concept had
been demonstrated by placing speakers in a wind tunnel and bombarding model
planes with noise.
However, Mr Salmon conceded yesterday, building giant speakers at airports
was not only impracticable, it would anger local residents who are already
annoyed by aircraft noise.
Instead, he has successfully experimented with covering the upper surface of
an aircraft wing with thin film-like panels linked to wires. When the wires
are electrified, the panels vibrate 400 times a second, producing an audible
buzz.
In wind-tunnel tests at the University of NSW, "singing wings" were able to
"fly" at much steeper angles - up to 22 degrees above the horizontal,
compared with the normal maximum of about 17 degrees.
"It gives you more of a safety margin, and more time for the pilot to react
in an emergency, such as an engine failure on take-off or a sudden wind
gust," Mr Salmon said.
In his research, which is part of his aerospace engineer degree at the
university, he even pumped music through his wing speakers, looking at how
well the hard-rock Australian group Spiderbait made a plane fly, compared
with the ethereal British band Radiohead.
"All we can say is that Spiderbait performs better than Radiohead," said Mr
Salmon.
The next step would be to test the singing wing on an unmanned aircraft.
Mr Salmon said that if they could make small aircraft perform better at low
speed, it should be possible to build planes with smaller wings, which would
be lighter, less thirsty, and thus cheaper to fly.
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
John,
I am also the proud owner of an extra aileron nose rib. Found the best way
is simply to mark the counterweight with the drill bit and then remove, centerpunch
and drill. Do this for both counterweight nose ribs. When you attach
the nose ribs to the counterweight with the screws you may need to finess the
tabs a bit to get a good fit. A flat tab against a rounded surface and all.
It will all fit well once you put it back together.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 13
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Subject: | [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: AMSAFE inertial belts
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dlm46007@cox.net.08.20.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 14
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Subject: | Another aileron tip |
That elevator bucking bar comes in handy when you rivet the second skin to the
spar flange of either the aileron or the flap. Use the flat side opposite the
angled side used on the elevator. Fits between the skins nicely and is heavy
enough to not bounce around while you rivet. You won't dent the skins as Van's
warns about. And you thought you'd never use that thing again.......
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Another aileron tip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I also did that and it works great. That bucking bar also gets modified
a tad and is used on the fuse.
See Section 29 Page 16
<http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg16.html>
-Sean #40303
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> That elevator bucking bar comes in handy when you rivet the second
> skin to the spar flange of either the aileron or the flap. Use the
> flat side opposite the angled side used on the elevator. Fits between
> the skins nicely and is heavy enough to not bounce around while you
> rivet. You won't dent the skins as Van's warns about. And you
> thought you'd never use that thing again.......
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
Message 16
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Subject: | Aileron hinge brackets |
I'm working on the aileron hinge brackets and have run into a problem. After match
drilling the two sides and the middle spacer, I pressed the bearing into
the spacer and tried to reassemble the bracket. The match drilled holes no longer
line up. The recess in the sides for the bearing seem out of line and won't
allow both sides and the spacer to go into their proper alignment. I've enlarged
the recess in the sides enough to get the match drilled holes back in
line but wonder if this is the proper thing to do. Am I compromising the structural
integrity of the bracket? Anyone else see this problem?
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 17
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Subject: | Aileron hinge brackets |
Funny thing, I just did this a half hour ago. But I had no problem whatsoever.
Bearings popped right in with out needing a press and everything still lined
up. Any chance you swapped some parts around?
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 rear spar
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron hinge brackets
I'm working on the aileron hinge brackets and have run into a problem. After match
drilling the two sides and the middle spacer, I pressed the bearing into
the spacer and tried to reassemble the bracket. The match drilled holes no longer
line up. The recess in the sides for the bearing seem out of line and won't
allow both sides and the spacer to go into their proper alignment. I've enlarged
the recess in the sides enough to get the match drilled holes back in
line but wonder if this is the proper thing to do. Am I compromising the structural
integrity of the bracket? Anyone else see this problem?
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge brackets |
Michael,
Double checked the parts, no mistake. Friend of mine received his wings about
the same time as I did and had the same problem. I did need to press the
bearing into the spacer, it would not just slide in. Seems as though the recess
in the side pieces is slightly out of wack. Rivet holes lined up perfectly
until the bearing was pressed into place. Hello Van's....john
Message 19
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Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of me
I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it from
the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the 1/2"
material to be cut to length.
Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is a
QB.
Thanks,
Marcus
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Marcus,
I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
me
> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
from
> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
1/2"
> material to be cut to length.
>
> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
a
> QB.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
>
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