Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:20 AM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Phil Hall)
2. 08:22 AM - Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. (bob.kaufmann)
3. 08:22 AM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Tim Olson)
4. 08:55 AM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Tim Olson)
5. 08:59 AM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (brian bollaert)
6. 10:07 AM - Randy (stevenflys1@juno.com)
7. 10:10 AM - Re: Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
8. 10:15 AM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 10:53 AM - Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (Jay Brinkmeyer)
10. 11:50 AM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Tim Olson)
11. 11:52 AM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (Tim Olson)
12. 12:01 PM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 12:21 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Dj Merrill)
14. 12:32 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (DejaVu)
15. 12:38 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Tim Olson)
16. 12:43 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (DejaVu)
17. 01:17 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Dan Checkoway)
18. 02:16 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
19. 02:44 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Tim Olson)
20. 03:02 PM - Re: Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. (Jim Combs)
21. 03:40 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Gary Specketer)
22. 05:06 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
23. 05:10 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (Randy DeBauw)
24. 05:48 PM - Titanium Rivets anyone? (jdalton77@comcast.net)
25. 07:09 PM - Re: Titanium Rivets anyone? (Tim Olson)
26. 07:16 PM - Tow Bar (Tim Olson)
27. 09:17 PM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (Bill and Tami Britton)
28. 09:35 PM - Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Phil Hall <phil@asibuildings.com>
Anh,
Did you get the engine mount pictures. I sent them four different times
but the kept coming back, except the last time.
Phil
At 01:31 AM 8/21/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
>Marcus,
>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>Anh
>#141
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>me
>> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>from
>> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>1/2"
>> material to be cut to length.
>>
>> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>a
>> QB.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. |
A while back we had a discussion on spacer bolts to temporary replace wing
bolts while working on the fuselage. Did any one save that. I thought I
did but can't find it. I'm at a point I need to roll into that part of the
construction.
Bob K
Had an interesting vision. A 4 ship doing a flyby at OSH and Van watching.
Yup we did a formation barrel roll .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Blood pressure is back down. I decided to cut the .025
trim kit material into strips. That stuff is 15" long,
so it works for the 2 15" strips. Cut 2 more strips for
14-1/8" strips, then cut 2 more for the last ones...and
you can get 1 each of the 8-7/8" and 6" ones from each
strip. The strips aren't as pretty as a nicely sheared
strip would be, but for shims they should work.
I still believe that they should either change their plans
to show using .025, or they should send maybe 3' lengths
of .020, but as long as a builder has spared their .025 trim
bundle material, this should work fine....and what's
another .005.
Tim
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
> a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
> this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
> this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
> with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
> there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
> you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
> And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
> .025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
> shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
> wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
> have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
>
> I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
> especially if they're going to specify .020.
>
> To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
> a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
> around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
> of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
> important for them to supply the proper material up front.
>
> So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
> get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
> ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
> and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
> of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
> Hmmmm.
>
> Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
> be alone in this boat.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Gear
>
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>
>> Marcus,
>> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
>> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
>> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>> Anh
>> #141
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>>
>>
>> me
>>
>>> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>>
>>
>> from
>>
>>> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>>> trim
>>> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>>
>>
>> 1/2"
>>
>>> material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
>>> mine is
>>
>>
>> a
>>
>>> QB.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hello Marcus:
I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a roll
of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse , that i
was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the engineers
made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were for
drill more rivets out !!
Working on top & many other things
(just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb flying
machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much better
than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a salary
far less then they get .
Brian Bollaert
40200
--- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> > attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
> me
> > I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
> from
> > the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
trim
> > pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
> 1/2"
> > material to be cut to length.
> >
> > Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
is
> a
> > QB.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Marcus
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
Message 6
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|
Randy,
I am going to be in the Aurora, OR area on Tuesday or Wednesday. Is there
any chance I could stop by and view your RV-10? Possibly get a ride in exchange
for some 100LL? I will probably get a ride in the Van's demonstrator, but
I heard their ride is usually short. If you are available I would appreciate
the viewing. I am on a motorcycle trip so this will be my only chance to e-mail
you. Please call me at (864) 723-6346 if you are available. Thank you!
Steven Morris
Wannabe builder
Randy,
I am going to be in the Aurora, OR area on Tuesday or Wednesday. Is there any
chance I could stop by and view your RV-10? Possibly get a ride in exchange for
some 100LL? I will probably get a ride in the Van's demonstrator, but I heard
their ride is usually short. If you are available I would appreciate the viewing.
I am on a motorcycle trip so this will be my only chance to e-mail you.
Please call me at (864) 723-6346 if you are available. Thank you!
Steven Morris
Wannabe builder
Message 7
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| Subject: | Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. |
I can see the Homer Simpson slap on the head and "Doh!" right now.
John W. Cox
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
Subject: RV10-List: Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage.
A while back we had a discussion on spacer bolts to temporary replace
wing bolts while working on the fuselage. Did any one save that. I
thought I did but can't find it. I'm at a point I need to roll into
that part of the construction.
Bob K
Had an interesting vision. A 4 ship doing a flyby at OSH and Van
watching. Yup we did a formation barrel roll .
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
FYI, there was a trim bundle included with my SB fuselage kit. I'll check later
to see if .020 was included as part of that. I know that it included a couple
of approx 14-15" pieces.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
I used a sharp bit and a bunch of Boe-lube. It worked for me without the
slipping described... Does anyone know of a way to re-sharpen aircraft drill
bits? Would the local drill-bit guy know what to do?
Regards,
Jay
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Time: 08:49:52 PM PST US
Subject: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
From: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
Folks,
Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use an
extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the drill
bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot in
the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger and
realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill bit
than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a hole
in the steel tube?
Thanks,
John
#40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates for
my planned cuban 8... :)
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
to take the sharper curve.
So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
reasonably easy to get in and out.
I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
brian bollaert wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Marcus:
>
> I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a roll
> of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>
> Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse , that i
> was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the engineers
> made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were for
> , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh well
> drill more rivets out !!
>
>
> Working on top & many other things
> (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb flying
> machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much better
> than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a salary
> far less then they get .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>
>>Marcus,
>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>>
>>me
>>
>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>>
>>from
>>
>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>
> trim
>
>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>>
>>1/2"
>>
>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
>
> is
>
>>a
>>
>>>QB.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Marcus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think you should be able to get them sharpened if you
wanted by anyone who does that sort of thing. As far as
I know, there are no "aircraft" drill bits. We're just
using some quality jobber bits. For the smaller sizes,
I don't know that it would be worth the hassle though.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> I used a sharp bit and a bunch of Boe-lube. It worked for me without the
> slipping described... Does anyone know of a way to re-sharpen aircraft drill
> bits? Would the local drill-bit guy know what to do?
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Time: 08:49:52 PM PST US
> Subject: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
> From: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
> counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use an
> extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the drill
> bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot in
> the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger and
> realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill bit
> than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
> Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
> suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a hole
> in the steel tube?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> #40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates for
> my planned cuban 8... :)
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
I use the handy dandy drill doctor. Works well. Can get them from just about
any hardware store/super wally world. Can be a bit tricky on short bits though.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 rear spar (for about another hour)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
Subject: RV10-List: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer
--> <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
I used a sharp bit and a bunch of Boe-lube. It worked for me without the slipping
described... Does anyone know of a way to re-sharpen aircraft drill bits? Would
the local drill-bit guy know what to do?
Regards,
Jay
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Time: 08:49:52 PM PST US
Subject: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
From: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
Folks,
Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use an
extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the drill
bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot in
the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger and
realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill bit
than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a hole
in the steel tube?
Thanks,
John
#40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates for
my planned cuban 8... :)
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Tim Olson wrote:
> I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
> is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
> to take the sharper curve.
Stick the hinge pin in an electric drill,
turn it slowly while inserting, and it should slide in pretty easy.
-Dj
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Phil,
Yes I did last night and responded offlist. Thanks.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Hall" <phil@asibuildings.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Phil Hall <phil@asibuildings.com>
>
> Anh,
>
> Did you get the engine mount pictures. I sent them four different times
> but the kept coming back, except the last time.
>
> Phil
>
> At 01:31 AM 8/21/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> >
> >Marcus,
> >I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> >out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> >the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> >Anh
> >#141
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> >Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> >> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
> >me
> >> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
> >from
> >> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
trim
> >> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
> >1/2"
> >> material to be cut to length.
> >>
> >> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
is
> >a
> >> QB.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Marcus
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That would be a great idea for right now, but after it's all done and
installed, the end of the pin gets an L-shaped bend in it, and if done
per plans would not be an option any longer. Take a peek at some
of the -10 cowling pin pictures from OSH and you'll see the pins
popping up in front of the windshield.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dj Merrill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
>>is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
>>to take the sharper curve.
>
>
> Stick the hinge pin in an electric drill,
> turn it slowly while inserting, and it should slide in pretty easy.
>
> -Dj
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim,
Remember too that the pins that came (in the fese kit) already installed on
the hinges are tempary. They're fat. The real ones are a bit smaller in
the finish kit.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
> oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
> decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
> will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
> pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
>
> But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
> try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
> the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
> hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
>
> I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
> is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
> to take the sharper curve.
>
> So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
> going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
> the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
> on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
> to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
> reasonably easy to get in and out.
>
> I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
> the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
> mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> brian bollaert wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
<bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >
> > Hello Marcus:
> >
> > I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
roll
> > of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
> >
> > Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
that i
> > was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
engineers
> > made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were
for
> > , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
well
> > drill more rivets out !!
> >
> >
> > Working on top & many other things
> > (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
flying
> > machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
better
> > than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
salary
> > far less then they get .
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> > 40200
> >
> > --- Original Message -----
> > From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> >>
> >>Marcus,
> >>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
> >>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
> >>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> >>Anh
> >>#141
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> >>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> >>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> >>>
> >>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> >>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
> >>
> >>me
> >>
> >>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
> >>
> >>from
> >>
> >>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
> >
> > trim
> >
> >>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
> >>
> >>1/2"
> >>
> >>>material to be cut to length.
> >>>
> >>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
> >
> > is
> >
> >>a
> >>
> >>>QB.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks,
> >>>Marcus
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--
8/19/2005
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Also, you need to file the end of the pin into almost a "chisel" shape, and
then insert it into the hinge with the chisel facing up. That will help
guide it through the curve. It's no big deal when you use the right size
pin and file the end appropriately.
FWIW, my hinge pins on my -7, which I'm sure have slightly more aggressive
curves than the -10's firewall slide in and out easily.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Tim,
> Remember too that the pins that came (in the fese kit) already installed
> on
> the hinges are tempary. They're fat. The real ones are a bit smaller in
> the finish kit.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 2:49 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
>> oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
>> decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
>> will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
>> pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
>>
>> But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
>> try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
>> the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
>> hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
>>
>> I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
>> is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
>> to take the sharper curve.
>>
>> So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
>> going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
>> the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
>> on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
>> to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
>> reasonably easy to get in and out.
>>
>> I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
>> the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
>> mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>
>>
>> brian bollaert wrote:
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>> >
>> > Hello Marcus:
>> >
>> > I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
> roll
>> > of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>> >
>> > Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
> that i
>> > was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
> engineers
>> > made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were
> for
>> > , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
> well
>> > drill more rivets out !!
>> >
>> >
>> > Working on top & many other things
>> > (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
> flying
>> > machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
> better
>> > than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
> salary
>> > far less then they get .
>> >
>> > Brian Bollaert
>> > 40200
>> >
>> > --- Original Message -----
>> > From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> > Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
>> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>> >>
>> >>Marcus,
>> >>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
> worked
>> >>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
> with
>> >>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>> >>Anh
>> >>#141
>> >>
>> >>----- Original Message -----
>> >>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>> >>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> >>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>> >>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>
>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>> >>><coop85@bellsouth.net>
>> >>>
>> >>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
>> >>>that
>> >>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
> of
>> >>
>> >>me
>> >>
>> >>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>> >>
>> >>from
>> >>
>> >>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>> >
>> > trim
>> >
>> >>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>> >>
>> >>1/2"
>> >>
>> >>>material to be cut to length.
>> >>>
>> >>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
>> >>>mine
>> >
>> > is
>> >
>> >>a
>> >>
>> >>>QB.
>> >>>
>> >>>Thanks,
>> >>>Marcus
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>--
> 8/19/2005
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim and other FB fuselage folks - my SB fuselage trim bundle included (2) 24"x1.5x.032
and (2) 24"x1.5x.025 pieces of alclad. No .020 of any size.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
FYI, there was a trim bundle included with my SB fuselage kit. I'll check later
to see if .020 was included as part of that. I know that it included a couple
of approx 14-15" pieces.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Anh, thanks for the reminder. That would make a big difference for
sure...using a smaller pin. I remember that the hinges get the pins
tossed away, but wasn't sure that the cowling pins were included
in that. The Chisel point concep of Dan's is a good one too.
I did have mine formed into a cone shape, so that should be
workable, but a chisel point could have that angle cut all the way
across the diameter, which would help even more.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Tim,
> Remember too that the pins that came (in the fese kit) already installed on
> the hinges are tempary. They're fat. The real ones are a bit smaller in
> the finish kit.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 2:49 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
>>oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
>>decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
>>will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
>>pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
>>
>>But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
>>try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
>>the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
>>hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
>>
>>I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
>>is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
>>to take the sharper curve.
>>
>>So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
>>going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
>>the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
>>on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
>>to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
>>reasonably easy to get in and out.
>>
>>I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
>>the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
>>mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
>>
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>
>>
>>brian bollaert wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
>>>Hello Marcus:
>>>
>>>I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
>
> roll
>
>>>of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>>>
>>>Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
>
> that i
>
>>>was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
>
> engineers
>
>>>made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were
>
> for
>
>>>, they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
>
> well
>
>>>drill more rivets out !!
>>>
>>>
>>>Working on top & many other things
>>>(just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
>
> flying
>
>>>machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
>
> better
>
>>>than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
>
> salary
>
>>>far less then they get .
>>>
>>>Brian Bollaert
>>>40200
>>>
>>>--- Original Message -----
>>>From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>>>
>>>>Marcus,
>>>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
>
> worked
>
>>>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
>
> with
>
>>>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>>>Anh
>>>>#141
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>>>
>>>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
>
> of
>
>>>>me
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>>>>
>>>>from
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>>>
>>>trim
>>>
>>>
>>>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>>>>
>>>>1/2"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>>>
>>>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
>>>
>>>is
>>>
>>>
>>>>a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>QB.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>Marcus
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>--
>
> 8/19/2005
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Bob,
8 Pcs 4.5" x 3/8"
8 Pcs 3/8" Bolt
16 Pcs 3/9" Washer
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
A while back we had a discussion on spacer bolts to temporary replace wing
bolts while working on the fuselage. Did any one save that. I thought I
did but can't find it. I'm at a point I need to roll into that part of the
construction.
Bob K
Had an interesting vision. A 4 ship doing a flyby at OSH and Van watching.
Yup we did a formation barrel roll .
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Where the hinge bends sharply, it helps to shorten each barrel slightly
to allow the bend to work. A small grinder works well.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That would be a great idea for right now, but after it's all done and
installed, the end of the pin gets an L-shaped bend in it, and if done
per plans would not be an option any longer. Take a peek at some
of the -10 cowling pin pictures from OSH and you'll see the pins popping
up in front of the windshield.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dj Merrill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
> --> <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
>>is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
>>to take the sharper curve.
>
>
> Stick the hinge pin in an electric drill,
> turn it slowly while inserting, and it should slide in pretty easy.
>
> -Dj
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I never found it. I used .025. Works fine. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
FYI, there was a trim bundle included with my SB fuselage kit. I'll
check later to see if .020 was included as part of that. I know that it
included a couple of approx 14-15" pieces.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
<coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim, the pins are changed out to .090 stainless steel pins on the top
only. They slide in fine on mine. In fact I heard a hint the other day.
I was to use Marvel Mystery oil on the hinge pins. It does seem to work.
I wouldn't give up on the hinge pin. Make sure you make them out of .090
stainless. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
to take the sharper curve.
So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
reasonably easy to get in and out.
I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
brian bollaert wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
<bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Marcus:
>
> I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
roll
> of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>
> Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
that i
> was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
engineers
> made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they
were for
> , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
well
> drill more rivets out !!
>
>
> Working on top & many other things
> (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
flying
> machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
better
> than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
salary
> far less then they get .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>
>>Marcus,
>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
<coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
that
>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
>>
>>me
>>
>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make
it
>>
>>from
>>
>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>
> trim
>
>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply
the
>>
>>1/2"
>>
>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
mine
>
> is
>
>>a
>>
>>>QB.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Marcus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
8/19/2005
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Titanium Rivets anyone? |
I recently read an article about Titanium rivets on aircraft and was wondering
if anyone is using them to construct their -10 (or other homebuilt projects).
They are more expensive but are significantly lighter than standard rivets.
What comes with the -10 kit?
Jeff
Still dreaming of building while flying a Piper Spamcan
I recently read an article about Titanium rivets on aircraft and was wondering
if anyone is using them to construct their -10 (or other homebuilt projects).
They are more expensive but are significantly lighter than standard rivets. What
comes with the -10 kit?
Jeff
Still dreaming of building while flying a Piper Spamcan
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Rivets anyone? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Most of the rivets used are either Gold or Platinum. At least it
feels like it when you're paying your bill.
Ok, that was the humor, now for the real answer:
Aluminum
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DO NOT ARCHIVE
jdalton77@comcast.net wrote:
> I recently read an article about Titanium rivets on aircraft and was
> wondering if anyone is using them to construct their -10 (or other
> homebuilt projects). They are more expensive but are significantly
> lighter than standard rivets. What comes with the -10 kit?
>
> Jeff
> Still dreaming of building while flying a Piper Spamcan
Message 26
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, or anyone else who knows...
Can you verify the part number you used for the Towbar from Aircraft
Spruce? I think I'm going to put in an order from them Monday
again , and I may as well get something else fun. I *almost*
got my plane on it's gear and rolling in and out of the garage
tonight. It would have happend, but Van's shorted me a couple
of bolts and a handful of washers...and I have to run to the hanger
to get my aeroshell grease. So I'll take a couple days to work
on the doors and sanding the windshield fairing. I figure the
towbar will work great when I need to move it in and out.
You can use it without the wheel pants, I hope.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 27
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|
spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
* -1.0 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
* 0.2 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
| Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Funny you should ask that question because just tonight I dulled my only -30
bit. I have a drill doctor and was wondering if it's possible to sharpen it
on that machine. I've sharpened hundreds of other bits on it and it works
fine. I'll definitely give it a try.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp
Wings patiently waiting for assembly on the garage floor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> I used a sharp bit and a bunch of Boe-lube. It worked for me without the
> slipping described... Does anyone know of a way to re-sharpen aircraft
drill
> bits? Would the local drill-bit guy know what to do?
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Time: 08:49:52 PM PST US
> Subject: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
> From: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
> counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use
an
> extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the
drill
> bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot
in
> the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger
and
> realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill
bit
> than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
> Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
> suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a
hole
> in the steel tube?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> #40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates
for
> my planned cuban 8... :)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
You may want to consider buying a few more. I have 1/2 dozen and it has
worked out ok. I bend them up accidentally more often than dulling them.
Use low speed and lots of lube on steel.
Anh
#141
(Finish)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton"
<william@gbta.net>
>
> Funny you should ask that question because just tonight I dulled my
only -30
> bit. I have a drill doctor and was wondering if it's possible to sharpen
it
> on that machine. I've sharpened hundreds of other bits on it and it works
> fine. I'll definitely give it a try.
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp
> Wings patiently waiting for assembly on the garage floor
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 12:52 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
> >
> > I used a sharp bit and a bunch of Boe-lube. It worked for me without the
> > slipping described... Does anyone know of a way to re-sharpen aircraft
> drill
> > bits? Would the local drill-bit guy know what to do?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jay
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Time: 08:49:52 PM PST US
> > Subject: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube
> > From: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
> > counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you
use
> an
> > extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the
> drill
> > bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot
> in
> > the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger
> and
> > realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill
> bit
> > than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs
from
> > Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
> > suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put
a
> hole
> > in the steel tube?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > John
> > #40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates
> for
> > my planned cuban 8... :)
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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