Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:14 AM - Re: Tow Bar (Randy DeBauw)
2. 09:49 AM - Back rivet on tailcone (Kent Forsythe)
3. 10:27 AM - Re: Back rivet on tailcone (Jeff Carpenter)
4. 10:29 AM - Re: Back rivet on tailcone (Deems Davis)
5. 10:36 AM - Re: Back rivet on tailcone (Sean Stephens)
6. 11:16 AM - Re: Back rivet on tailcone (Randy DeBauw)
7. 12:55 PM - Re: Tow Bar (Tim Olson)
8. 01:03 PM - Baggage Door Lock Possibility? (Sean Stephens)
9. 01:05 PM - tailcone questions (Chris Johnston)
10. 01:08 PM - Re: Baggage Door Lock Possibility? (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
11. 02:44 PM - Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 02:53 PM - Collison Avoidance Information (Scott Schmidt)
13. 03:42 PM - Build tanks dry??? (Jim Wade)
14. 04:28 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (John Hasbrouck)
15. 04:47 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (Brian Denk)
16. 04:56 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (Sean Stephens)
17. 05:00 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (Randy DeBauw)
18. 05:29 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (Jim Combs)
19. 05:36 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (McGANN, Ron)
20. 07:04 PM - Re: W&B ()
21. 07:13 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (Chris)
22. 07:28 PM - RV builders (Tom Ganster)
23. 08:16 PM - Re: RV builders (Deems Davis)
24. 08:50 PM - Re: Re: W&B (Dan Checkoway)
25. 10:21 PM - Re: RV builders (Rene)
26. 11:51 PM - Re: Build tanks dry??? (RAS)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The RVA style. You have to cut about 3/4 of an inch on each leg after
you install the wheel pants. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Tow Bar
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy, or anyone else who knows...
Can you verify the part number you used for the Towbar from Aircraft
Spruce? I think I'm going to put in an order from them Monday
again , and I may as well get something else fun. I *almost*
got my plane on it's gear and rolling in and out of the garage
tonight. It would have happend, but Van's shorted me a couple
of bolts and a handful of washers...and I have to run to the hanger
to get my aeroshell grease. So I'll take a couple days to work
on the doors and sanding the windshield fairing. I figure the
towbar will work great when I need to move it in and out.
You can use it without the wheel pants, I hope.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
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| Subject: | Back rivet on tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap issues. I
decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in each of the side skins.
They turned out great.
I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am curious how you
keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I remove a stretch of clecoes
the length of my back rivet plate (about 16 inches) I still have all the other
clecos holding the bottom skin on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat on
the surface of my workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire tailcone using
a couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to match.
Is there an easier way?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tailcone
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Back rivet on tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Hi Kent,
I "fed" the tail cone on to a back rivet plate on my work bench from
a saw horse... removing clecos as I got to the edge of the table...
starting from the back of the cone and working forward.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wing Inventory
On Aug 22, 2005, at 9:49 AM, Kent Forsythe wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
> <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
> Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin
> overlap issues. I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight
> bend in each of the side skins. They turned out great.
>
> I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am
> curious how you keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I
> remove a stretch of clecoes the length of my back rivet plate
> (about 16 inches) I still have all the other clecos holding the
> bottom skin on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat on the
> surface of my workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire
> tailcone using a couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to
> match.
>
> Is there an easier way?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Tailcone
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Back rivet on tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Kent, what I did was cleco from INSIDE of the tailcone, the part of the
cleco that sticks out extends less than the thickness of the back rivet
plate, I would load and tape the rivets ( I did all 3 stiffeners in
parallel), turn the tailcone over on it's side and then position the
back rivet plate so the the extending cleco butted up against the back
rivet plate, this gave one rivet spacing 'margin' for the last rivet in
the line. 3 'lines' of 10-14 rivets each this way, I finished up on
sat and it turned out great.
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
>Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap issues.
I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in each of the side skins.
They turned out great.
>
>I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am curious how you
keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I remove a stretch of clecoes
the length of my back rivet plate (about 16 inches) I still have all the other
clecos holding the bottom skin on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat
on the surface of my workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire tailcone using
a couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to match.
>
>Is there an easier way?
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Tailcone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Back rivet on tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Another trick which I used was to cleco from the "inside". This allows
you to set the skin of the tailcone on the backing plate with the "tip"
of the clecos hangin over the edge of the plate.
-Sean #40303
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> I "fed" the tail cone on to a back rivet plate on my work bench from
> a saw horse... removing clecos as I got to the edge of the table...
> starting from the back of the cone and working forward.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Wing Inventory
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2005, at 9:49 AM, Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
>> <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>>
>> Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap
>> issues. I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in
>> each of the side skins. They turned out great.
>>
>> I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am
>> curious how you keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I
>> remove a stretch of clecoes the length of my back rivet plate (about
>> 16 inches) I still have all the other clecos holding the bottom skin
>> on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat on the surface of my
>> workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire tailcone using a
>> couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to match.
>>
>> Is there an easier way?
>>
>> Kent Forsythe
>> 40338
>> Tailcone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Back rivet on tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I have bought the back rivet bucking bar from Avery. Very nice size
unit with a round head that only requires removing one extra cleco.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Back rivet on tailcone
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
<matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap
issues. I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in each of
the side skins. They turned out great.
I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am curious
how you keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I remove a
stretch of clecoes the length of my back rivet plate (about 16 inches) I
still have all the other clecos holding the bottom skin on keeping me
from laying the tailcone flat on the surface of my workbench. I guess I
could elevate the entire tailcone using a couple of 2x4s and raise my
back rivet plate up to match.
Is there an easier way?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tailcone
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ordered my towbar today from ACS...here's the line item:
13-01811
BOGERT BOGIE-BAR RV6A & RV8A
$78.75
When it comes and it works, I'll post pictures and the info.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> The RVA style. You have to cut about 3/4 of an inch on each leg after
> you install the wheel pants. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 7:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tow Bar
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Randy, or anyone else who knows...
> Can you verify the part number you used for the Towbar from Aircraft
> Spruce? I think I'm going to put in an order from them Monday
> again , and I may as well get something else fun. I *almost*
> got my plane on it's gear and rolling in and out of the garage
> tonight. It would have happend, but Van's shorted me a couple
> of bolts and a handful of washers...and I have to run to the hanger
> to get my aeroshell grease. So I'll take a couple days to work
> on the doors and sanding the windshield fairing. I figure the
> towbar will work great when I need to move it in and out.
> You can use it without the wheel pants, I hope.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Gear
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Lock Possibility? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Ran across this little item from a catalog. Looks like it may be an
option for the baggage door lock without requiring the purchase of the
key switch for those of us using a push button start?
<http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
Hmmm, for only $15 I might give it a try.
-Sean #40303
Message 9
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| Subject: | tailcone questions |
1.90 HTTP_CTRL_CHARS_HOST URI: Uses control sequences inside a URL hostname
0.48 HTTP_ESCAPED_HOST URI: Uses %-escapes inside a URL's hostname
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Hey all -
In the spirit of all the discussion about tailcone items, I've got a
couple questions. I'm currently at the dimpling/countersinking stage,
and I've become a bit confused. You're told to countersink the
longerons (except for a couple spots in the aft section), and you're
also told NOT to dimple any of the flanges/skins common to the F-1006
bulkheads. What about the first hole in the longeron? Doesn't that
share a hole with the F-1006 bulkhead and skin? I know that the little
tab on the bulkhead goes inside of the longeron, so doesn't need
dimpling, but what about the skin hole? It doesn't seem like you'd be
able to dimple it later. Also, since the F-1006 bulkhead doesn't get
riveted at this point, should I not prime it along with everything else?
Lastly, for those using Van's static option, how do you like it?
Thanks in advance
cj
#40410 tailcone
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Lock Possibility? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Nice. Saw one of those in Sporty's "Tool Shop" catalog, but they only had one
size.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Lock Possibility?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Ran across this little item from a catalog. Looks like it may be an
option for the baggage door lock without requiring the purchase of the
key switch for those of us using a push button start?
<http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
Hmmm, for only $15 I might give it a try.
-Sean #40303
Message 11
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| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Tim,
Having lived with the hinges 11 years on my -6, I would say that you
should consider a single pin across the top, flatter portion of the
upper cowl at the firewall, and fasteners just down around the curves.
This makes pin install/remove pretty easy, reduces the number of
fasteners (always important!), maintains a clean look across the top,
reduces cowl 'flex or bowing' between fasteners, etc.
I still use 2 hinges on my -6, but I put them in a battery powered drill
and tapered them across a grinder and smoothed them on a scotchbrite
wheel, so they are thick in the straight portions and thinner around the
corners.
Finally, the hinges 'get looser' after you run the engine some, so
aren't as hard to get in/out after a while.
Dw
RV-6 N790DW
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim, the pins are changed out to .090 stainless steel pins on the top
only. They slide in fine on mine. In fact I heard a hint the other day.
I was to use Marvel Mystery oil on the hinge pins. It does seem to work.
I wouldn't give up on the hinge pin. Make sure you make them out of .090
stainless. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges oh so
nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had decided
beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I will use either
screws or camlocs there...since the hinge pins or eyelets break down
there after time from what I hear.
But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd try to
pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of the way off, and
then reinstall it...with someone helping hold the alignment as I pushed
in the pin.
I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin is nothing too
easy to slide in, especially once it starts to take the sharper curve.
So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm going to
count out how many camlocs to get, and order up the materials needed to
do the job. I'll still have hinges on the lower cowl, going down the
side, and from front to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd
be reasonably easy to get in and out.
I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For the rest of the
day, I'm going to try to get the engine mount on and see if I can get
the gear under it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
brian bollaert wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
<bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Marcus:
>
> I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
roll
> of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>
> Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
that i
> was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
engineers
> made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they
were for
> , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
well
> drill more rivets out !!
>
>
> Working on top & many other things
> (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
flying
> machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
better
> than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
salary
> far less then they get .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
>>
>>Marcus,
>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
<coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
that
>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
>>
>>me
>>
>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make
it
>>
>>from
>>
>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>
> trim
>
>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply
the
>>
>>1/2"
>>
>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
mine
>
> is
>
>>a
>>
>>>QB.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Marcus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
8/19/2005
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Collison Avoidance Information |
I just talked with the engineers at SureCheck Aviation. They are the
same company as the Zaon Flight Systems www.zaonflight.com
<http://www.zaonflight.com/> who are coming out with the new XRX system
this November. Anyway, the current VRX system you can get either panel
mounted, rack mounted, or under the panel mounted. This winter they
will offer the XRX in a panel mounted version and they will give you
100% value on the VRX to upgrade to the XRX. The XRX will also fit in
the exact same hole as the VRX. The XRX has direction on it which is
very cool. Anyway, I was concerned that I would get the VRX and not be
able to upgrade.
FYI
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting looks
much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4 inch
access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if your
tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
Jim
40383
Building slow build fuselage
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
Jim,
I built my tanks as per the plans. I did use the tank dimple dies but on
the rib flanges only. The skin was dimpled with the regular dimple die. I should
correct that, I did both skins and flanges with the tank dies on the first
tank and didn't like the rivets. They seem to "float" some when you set them.
By using the tank dies on the flanges only you make a small space between the
skin and the flange that fills with proseal. The factory head of the rivet
is more stable when you set it. I coated the flanges inside with proseal and
put a bead around anything that might leak. Leak test was fine on both. If you
coat the flanges with proseal and then rivet you will still get proseal seaping
through the holes. You'd have to build the tank completely without proseal
then go back and seal. It could work dry but the idea of putting access plates
in the rear baffle introduces more sources of leaks, I don't like that.
Nothing's forever so I guess we'll all eventually have to deal with leaky tanks
but hell my Piper Arrow was 35 years old before they started leaking.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
>Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting looks
>much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
>ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4 inch
>access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
>patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if
>your
>tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
>Jim
>40383
>Building slow build fuselage
No thanks. What about all the rivet lines along the ribs? You'll have a
seepy, weepy mess. You're supposed to reach in through all those baffle
holes you cut out to glop sealant on them?
Build them right, with sealant, on every rib and baffle flange, as you
assemble them. I have five years on my RV8 with no leaks. I've never heard
of anyone building them dry. There was the day of using "slosh" to coat the
inside of the tanks but that turned into a real nightmare....globs of it
plugging up the fuel strainers.
Once you get rolling with the whole prosealing process, it's really not that
bad. Just keep the sets clean (wipe with solvent after every rivet), wear
two pairs of powderless latex gloves, and it'll turn out fine.
Or....buy QB wings or just the pre-assembled tanks and fuhgedaboudit!!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Anyone doing pre-assembled -10 tanks yet?
-Sean
Brian Denk wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>>
>> I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
>> Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting
>> looks
>> much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
>> ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put
>> 4 inch
>> access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
>> patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of
>> if your
>> tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
>> Jim
>> 40383
>> Building slow build fuselage
>
>
> No thanks. What about all the rivet lines along the ribs? You'll
> have a seepy, weepy mess. You're supposed to reach in through all
> those baffle holes you cut out to glop sealant on them?
>
> Build them right, with sealant, on every rib and baffle flange, as you
> assemble them. I have five years on my RV8 with no leaks. I've never
> heard of anyone building them dry. There was the day of using "slosh"
> to coat the inside of the tanks but that turned into a real
> nightmare....globs of it plugging up the fuel strainers.
>
> Once you get rolling with the whole prosealing process, it's really
> not that bad. Just keep the sets clean (wipe with solvent after every
> rivet), wear two pairs of powderless latex gloves, and it'll turn out
> fine.
>
> Or....buy QB wings or just the pre-assembled tanks and fuhgedaboudit!!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
Let us know how will that works! Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting
looks much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange
of the ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to
put 4 inch access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head
and also to patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a
matter of if your tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
Jim
40383
Building slow build fuselage
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
A while back, someone on the list proposed thinning the tank sealant with MEK.
While MEK is really nasty, it does work really well to thin out the tank sealant.
(ie. do this outside with LOTS of ventillation).
I tried this with my flap trailing edges. Mixed in some MEK to the point where
I could suck it up with a $1.69 syringe from the pharmacy. It made dispensing
the stuff a whole lot easier and net nearly as messy. The joints were easlily
riveted and the excess tank sealant readily squeezed out. It harded up as
if I had not cut it with the MEK.
The syringe was tossed, but it made the process really easy. The stuff was still
plenty sticky. Once the syringe was loaded, I covered the unused stuff. No
nasty odors to deal with.
I would really like to know if there is something other than MEK that can be used
to thin the tank sealant.
I plan on doing the same with the tanks. I will know soon how well this works
on the tank.
My opinion FWIW, would be to build the tanks with sealant between the ribs and
skin. Just thin some of it to make it easier to work with.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
Message 19
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| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
Jim,
See the link below about thinning tank sealant. Use toluene.
<http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf>
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
A while back, someone on the list proposed thinning the tank sealant with MEK.
While MEK is really nasty, it does work really well to thin out the tank sealant.
(ie. do this outside with LOTS of ventillation).
I tried this with my flap trailing edges. Mixed in some MEK to the point where
I could suck it up with a $1.69 syringe from the pharmacy. It made dispensing
the stuff a whole lot easier and net nearly as messy. The joints were easlily
riveted and the excess tank sealant readily squeezed out. It harded up as
if I had not cut it with the MEK.
The syringe was tossed, but it made the process really easy. The stuff was still
plenty sticky. Once the syringe was loaded, I covered the unused stuff. No
nasty odors to deal with.
I would really like to know if there is something other than MEK that can be used
to thin the tank sealant.
I plan on doing the same with the tanks. I will know soon how well this works
on the tank.
My opinion FWIW, would be to build the tanks with sealant between the ribs and
skin. Just thin some of it to make it easier to work with.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
Message 20
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Say, wouldn't it nice if Van's furnished the W&B information for an empty RV-10
shell, and then we could do some advance calculations, moving batteries and ascessories
here and there to set ourselves up for a good c.g. location? Or at
least the W&B of empty shell + IO-540.
Right now it seems a little like a guessing game with one's particular configuration.
Then the rubber meeets the road when you put it on the scales . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
I asked Van's if they had plans to offer prebuilt tanks, they said no. You
also see I think they discontinued the offer on the RV-9. There is a service
which will do your tanks using your tank parts.
http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/RV-10%20Tanks.htm
Chris Lucas
#40072
N919AR (reserved)
tanks (saving $1700)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Anyone doing pre-assembled -10 tanks yet?
>
> -Sean
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>>
>>>
>>> I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
>>> Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting
>>> looks
>>> much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
>>> ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4
>>> inch
>>> access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
>>> patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if
>>> your
>>> tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
>>> Jim
>>> 40383
>>> Building slow build fuselage
>>
>>
>> No thanks. What about all the rivet lines along the ribs? You'll have a
>> seepy, weepy mess. You're supposed to reach in through all those baffle
>> holes you cut out to glop sealant on them?
>>
>> Build them right, with sealant, on every rib and baffle flange, as you
>> assemble them. I have five years on my RV8 with no leaks. I've never
>> heard of anyone building them dry. There was the day of using "slosh" to
>> coat the inside of the tanks but that turned into a real
>> nightmare....globs of it plugging up the fuel strainers.
>>
>> Once you get rolling with the whole prosealing process, it's really not
>> that bad. Just keep the sets clean (wipe with solvent after every
>> rivet), wear two pairs of powderless latex gloves, and it'll turn out
>> fine.
>>
>> Or....buy QB wings or just the pre-assembled tanks and fuhgedaboudit!!
>>
>> Brian Denk
>> RV8 N94BD
>> RV10 '51
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could
correspond with that might be able to inspect the quality of a partially
build RV10 in your area?
I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10. Tim,
you live in WI don't you? Would be interested in seeing your project if
we could arrange it some time. Tom Ganster tganster@frontiernet.net
Message 23
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I believe that Mike Howe lives in the SLC area here's his URL
http://www.etigerrr.com/. i believe that Scott Schmidt also lives in the
valley.
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
Tom Ganster wrote:
> Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could
> correspond with that might be able to inspect the quality of a
> partially build RV10 in your area?
>
> I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10.
> Tim, you live in WI dont you? Would be interested in seeing your
> project if we could arrange it some time. Tom Ganster
> tganster@frontiernet.net
>
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
It doesn't have to be a guessing game...
http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
If all of the flying RV-10 pilots were to plug their data into this
database, over time we'd have a decent sense of the range of weights & CGs.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RV10-List: RE: W&B
Say, wouldn't it nice if Van's furnished the W&B information for an empty
RV-10 shell, and then we could do some advance calculations, moving
batteries and ascessories here and there to set ourselves up for a good c.g.
location? Or at least the W&B of empty shell + IO-540.
Right now it seems a little like a guessing game with one's particular
configuration. Then the rubber meeets the road when you put it on the
scales . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
Message 25
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I am building mine in Ogden, about 35 miles north of the SLC international
airport. I am a novice builder, but you could come on by and see all my
birth marks.....
I currently have my wings at about 80% and started on the fuselage
tonight... .001% done.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Ganster
Subject: RV10-List: RV builders
Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could correspond
with that might be able to inspect the quality of a partially build RV10 in
your area?
I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10. Tim, you
live in WI don't you? Would be interested in seeing your project if we could
arrange it some time. Tom Ganster tganster@frontiernet.net
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
Build your tanks wet and stick with Van's instructions. I have a small leak with
wet built tanks on my RV7 which I'm going to fix today as a matter of fact.
The cutting of access holes in the back will only be another source for a potential
leak. So is every rivet hole.
I would change friends or build the tanks wet. It's messy and it's smelly that's
all. Get a good quantity of MEK and mix proseal in small batches, you'll be
fine.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wade
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 11:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting looks much
better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the ribs.I do
know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4 inch access holes
in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to patch any leaks.
I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if your tank leaks, it when!!!
Any comments???
Jim
40383
Building slow build fuselage
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