Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:22 AM - Re: Cowling Trim question (Rob Kermanj)
2. 05:12 AM - Re: Window Installation and more ()
3. 05:22 AM - IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456 (Tim Lewis)
4. 05:34 AM - Re: IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456 (RAS)
5. 06:15 AM - Re: Cowling Trim question (Tim Olson)
6. 06:33 AM - Re: Window Installation and more (Tim Olson)
7. 02:56 PM - Gretz (John Hasbrouck)
8. 03:11 PM - FW: Elevator question (Sean Blair)
9. 03:33 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (James Hein)
10. 03:55 PM - Re: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 (Dan Charrois)
11. 04:00 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (Sean Blair)
12. 04:15 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (James Hein)
13. 04:15 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
14. 04:16 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (Jim Combs)
15. 04:48 PM - Re: Gretz (Tim Olson)
16. 06:20 PM - Re: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
17. 07:43 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (Sean Blair)
18. 08:07 PM - Re: Friggin tank ribs (John Testement)
19. 08:39 PM - Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans (Tim Olson)
20. 09:14 PM - Re: FW: Elevator question (Shawn Moon)
21. 09:41 PM - Air vent location problem (Tim Olson)
22. 09:57 PM - Re: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans (Randy DeBauw)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Trim question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Tim, it looks like we are about the same stages of the construction. I
just installed the door latch mechanism and here is what I found. I
wonder if you did the same:
With the inside latch in full open position and the rack retracted
(almost touching the pocket wall) the rear door pins seem to be too
long and looks like they need to be trimmed about 3/4". How about
yours?
Thanks
do not archive
On Sep 4, 2005, at 9:52 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Is there someone who's done the front cowling who can answer a quick
> question?
>
> I'm about to trim it. The directions aren't bad, but a little
> vague. You center the spinner in the hole for the cowling top.
> Does the spinner face slope smoothly into that ridge in the cowl,
> so they should be level and flow together, or is the cowling
> supposed to be raised up at all above the spinner height?
> On my Sundowner, the cowl is about 1/2" taller than the spinner
> is, but that's a whole different plane. It can seem logically
> centered either way...flush, or the cowl circle about 1/4" outside
> of the spinner. The reason is, the area with the 3 screws on each
> side sticks out a bit more, so it makes it look like it could
> possibly not be flush.
>
>
> 2nd question: The cowl as supplied must not overlap the top and
> bottom surfaces, huh? When they're put together, it looks as
> if it's going to end up with the top half and bottom half
> butting up against eachother along the side of the cowl. I suppose
> that's expected since it's a hinge joint.....duh. Oh well,
> I guess we're all allowed a few stupid questions.
>
>
> Tip of the day: When drilling those UHMW blocks that the door
> lock pins go through....the ones that mount to the outside of
> the doorframe, not to the door... If you follow the directions
> and shim the block up on the side they say to do, you will be
> drilling the 3.4 degree offset hole so that it slopes in the WRONG
> direction to do what you need it to do. Also, if you follow the
> drawing and centerpunch for the 2 small holes on the side they
> show to punch, you'll end up with a part that doesn't work because
> of this slope. Read the directions, look at the pictures, then
> test the concept on the door and you'll see what I mean. Just
> try to remember this issue before you get to this point.
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Cowling
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Window Installation and more |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Good morning Tim.
Because your page it is almost unofficial builders support, (I thinks Van's must
pay you something)please include a little appoint ,regarding the VS nose rib
problem,and to read instruction from the HS)
sorry,but after look at your page ,is not sense for me to start another one,yours
must be the most complete out there,compliments.
Probably not many peoples understand you sacrifice your own building time in exchange
to help others with tips and suggestions.
By,Hugo
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2005/08/17 Wed PM 12:49:20 EDT
> To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Window Installation and more
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I haven't done a page update for a while, but today did a
> good one.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050816/index.html
>
> Last night I did my first 2 windows and I compiled a bunch of
> good tips that Anh and Randy gave me. Boy did I learn a lot.
> Wish I had been doing practince doors, as the next 2 I do will
> turn out much better with less effort.
>
> Also, I did the install of my Throttle quadrant, so I thought
> some of you might want to see install photos of that.
>
> One more thing is that I messed up my door handles, so there's
> a warning here as well, along with a bunch of other stuff.
>
> I'm trying to keep adding to the page as I can, but I've been
> pretty swamped lately. The good news is, I'm pretty close to
> putting the gear on, and mounting the engine.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Doors/Windows
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
Listers,
I'm overhauling an elderly IO-540-C4B5 for my RV-10. I have 4 engine
mount brackets, Lycoming part number 72306 (Piper Aztec compatible, I
believe). I'm looking for an economical source for the 4 brackets that
Van's engine mount expects, Lycoming part number 70456.
Does anybody know of a supplier who'd be interested in some sort of
exchange?
Thanks,
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi,
try some of the airboat specialists.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm overhauling an elderly IO-540-C4B5 for my RV-10. I have 4 engine
> mount brackets, Lycoming part number 72306 (Piper Aztec compatible, I
> believe). I'm looking for an economical source for the 4 brackets that
> Van's engine mount expects, Lycoming part number 70456.
>
> Does anybody know of a supplier who'd be interested in some sort of
> exchange?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Trim question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Rob,
Thanks everyone, by the way, for that cowl help. I'll re-draw my trim
line based on the cowl fitting about 1/4" lower than the spinner for
future sag. Sounds reasonable to me. I heard the same thing from
David McNeill regarding his Glastar, so this sounds like a common thing.
I am surprised it wasn't written in the plans this way. I guess I'll
plan for it, and then just hope the engine does indeed sag.
As far as my door latch goes, I did seem to have a some that were pretty
long and may need trimming. I'll go back and look at that. I haven't
screwed the pin blocks on both sides and then run the doors, but yes,
you're probably right that I have one or two that are so long that
with the blocks mounted on the outer doorframe that the door won't
shut without trimming them. I think what I'll do is just wait until
I'm reassembling the door after painting it, and then just trim the
pins back so the tip is just coming out from the UHMW block on the
door when retracted. Then it should clear that pin block on the
frame. It looks like there's maybe 1/4" gap between the two blocks
(just an approimate guess, so don't quote that), so as long as it
doesn't stick out more than that it should work.
I'm still moving full speed towards painting. I haven't filled and
epoxied any canopy/cowling/window/windshield fairing areas yet...
I plan to do that stuff all at once. But, with luck I hope to
be painting in a 2 or 3 weeks. I'll skip painting the wheel pants
and all of that until the project is done.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim, it looks like we are about the same stages of the construction. I
> just installed the door latch mechanism and here is what I found. I
> wonder if you did the same:
>
> With the inside latch in full open position and the rack retracted
> (almost touching the pocket wall) the rear door pins seem to be too long
> and looks like they need to be trimmed about 3/4". How about yours?
>
> Thanks
> do not archive
>
> On Sep 4, 2005, at 9:52 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Is there someone who's done the front cowling who can answer a quick
>> question?
>>
>> I'm about to trim it. The directions aren't bad, but a little
>> vague. You center the spinner in the hole for the cowling top.
>> Does the spinner face slope smoothly into that ridge in the cowl,
>> so they should be level and flow together, or is the cowling
>> supposed to be raised up at all above the spinner height?
>> On my Sundowner, the cowl is about 1/2" taller than the spinner
>> is, but that's a whole different plane. It can seem logically
>> centered either way...flush, or the cowl circle about 1/4" outside
>> of the spinner. The reason is, the area with the 3 screws on each
>> side sticks out a bit more, so it makes it look like it could
>> possibly not be flush.
>>
>>
>> 2nd question: The cowl as supplied must not overlap the top and
>> bottom surfaces, huh? When they're put together, it looks as
>> if it's going to end up with the top half and bottom half
>> butting up against eachother along the side of the cowl. I suppose
>> that's expected since it's a hinge joint.....duh. Oh well,
>> I guess we're all allowed a few stupid questions.
>>
>>
>> Tip of the day: When drilling those UHMW blocks that the door
>> lock pins go through....the ones that mount to the outside of
>> the doorframe, not to the door... If you follow the directions
>> and shim the block up on the side they say to do, you will be
>> drilling the 3.4 degree offset hole so that it slopes in the WRONG
>> direction to do what you need it to do. Also, if you follow the
>> drawing and centerpunch for the 2 small holes on the side they
>> show to punch, you'll end up with a part that doesn't work because
>> of this slope. Read the directions, look at the pictures, then
>> test the concept on the door and you'll see what I mean. Just
>> try to remember this issue before you get to this point.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>> Current project: Cowling
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Window Installation and more |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks for the compliments Hugo. Nope, no payment from them. I only
do it because A) I wanted to log and display my progress for friends and
family anyway. B) Being a first-time builder, I find some things
confusing, and knowing that many are in the same position, the only
humane thing to do is to pass on the info to other builders. C) I work
in the tech industry, so finding a place and method to get the page
up wasn't too awful. It does take a bit of time, but Dan Checkoway's
page was probably significantly more time consuming. If you haven't
been there, he has the 100% best page for RV builders for general info.
I've been getting lots of compliments on mine for the RV-10 but it's
nowhere near the quality of his. I fully intend to spend more time on
the page AFTER I fly, and keep it going and improving it. It's been
fun...too bad it does either take up my sleep time or building time.
I did have that vertical stab help listed on my tips page at:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/gotchas.html
I just added it to the Vertical Stab Tips page too, since I noticed
that link was missing, and the tip wasn't even there...silly me.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/vstabtips.html
I try to keep a small but growing list of compiled building tips
at http://www.MyRV10.com/tips so if anyone has anything that they've
learned that will be valuable to others, please just write it up and
send it to me in the form you want it posted and I'll stick it in
that section. Some of the tips I haven't been putting in there, but
I've been trying to write them in my write-ups in my own section of
the page. When I get time later on, I'll re-read my own stuff and
try to organize it better. Thanks again Hugo, and to all the others
who have shown appreciation.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Good morning Tim. Because your page it is almost unofficial builders
> support, (I thinks Van's must pay you something)please include a
> little appoint ,regarding the VS nose rib problem,and to read
> instruction from the HS) sorry,but after look at your page ,is not
> sense for me to start another one,yours must be the most complete out
> there,compliments. Probably not many peoples understand you sacrifice
> your own building time in exchange to help others with tips and
> suggestions. By,Hugo
>
>> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Date: 2005/08/17 Wed PM 12:49:20
>> EDT To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Window
>> Installation and more
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> I haven't done a page update for a while, but today did a good one.
>>
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050816/index.html
>>
>> Last night I did my first 2 windows and I compiled a bunch of good
>> tips that Anh and Randy gave me. Boy did I learn a lot. Wish I had
>> been doing practince doors, as the next 2 I do will turn out much
>> better with less effort.
>>
>> Also, I did the install of my Throttle quadrant, so I thought some
>> of you might want to see install photos of that.
>>
>> One more thing is that I messed up my door handles, so there's a
>> warning here as well, along with a bunch of other stuff.
>>
>> I'm trying to keep adding to the page as I can, but I've been
>> pretty swamped lately. The good news is, I'm pretty close to
>> putting the gear on, and mounting the engine.
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current project: Doors/Windows DO NOT
>> ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
For those who bought heated pitots from Gretz, how much were they? I've
tried to contact them by e-mail but haven't received any response. Wanted a
price and ordering info. Thanks
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 8
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| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
Quick question please....I'm almost ready to start dimpling and priming the
elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is very near the
trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin. There doesn't seem to
be anything under it, so I'm confused by this. Has anyone else seen this?
What should I do? Just dimple it and fill with a flush rivet?
Sorry if this in the archives, couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB(reserved)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Elevator question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Got a picture?
I've just finished my elevators a few weeks ago, and after taking
another look at them I still can't figure out what you're referring to.
A picture's worth a thousand words.....
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone
Sean Blair wrote:
> Quick question please.Im almost ready to start dimpling and
> priming the elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is
> very near the trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin.
> There doesnt seem to be anything under it, so Im confused by this.
> Has anyone else seen this? What should I do? Just dimple it and fill
> with a flush rivet?
>
> Sorry if this in the archives, couldnt find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB(reserved)
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Charrois <danlist@syz.com>
Thanks for the wonderful responses I received about my posting for
the minimum practical runway length for an RV-10.
One thing I forgot to mention in my posting was our elevation. We're
not terribly high, but not at sea level either - at about 2300 feet
ASL. From the advice I've been given, coupled with the altitude,
I've come to the conclusion that for safety's sake, I will either:
- need to find land in the area I can lease that will give me at
least 3000 feet of distance (maybe even more), especially during the
testing phases
- rent some hanger space in one of the nearest airports to finish up
construction of the plane and do flight testing at. This would
without doubt be the safest option.
Then, once everything is done and I'm comfortable with the plane, I
can test things on existing long grass strips to see if a strip on
our land is feasible and comfortable or just asking for trouble.
It's not anywhere near as convenient as just being able to use the
land we already have, but I'd rather trade off safety for
convenience :-)
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
Message 11
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| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Sorry Jim, no picture with me. This extra hole is within an inch or two
forward of the rivet line where you Pro Seal the trailing edge. It shows up
on the top skins only for both the left and right skins.
Next time I'm at the hangar I'll get a picture of this if needed.
Thanks for taking a look.
Sean B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Got a picture?
I've just finished my elevators a few weeks ago, and after taking
another look at them I still can't figure out what you're referring to.
A picture's worth a thousand words.....
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone
Sean Blair wrote:
> Quick question please....I'm almost ready to start dimpling and
> priming the elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is
> very near the trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin.
> There doesn't seem to be anything under it, so I'm confused by this.
> Has anyone else seen this? What should I do? Just dimple it and fill
> with a flush rivet?
>
> Sorry if this in the archives, couldn't find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB(reserved)
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Elevator question |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
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Message 13
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| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
You're not refering to one of the holes on the tab you bend down/up
right next to where the trim tab attaches, are you? Those are the only
holes I could find on my elevators that kinda matches your description.
If so, once you bend the tabs from the top and bottom together, a pop
rivet goes through to hold the two together. (Forms the verticle edge
between the elevator proper and the trim tab) If that's not it, I am out
of ideas...
John
#40208 Wings
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Sorry Jim, no picture with me. This extra hole is within an inch or two
forward of the rivet line where you Pro Seal the trailing edge. It
shows up on the top skins only for both the left and right skins.
Next time I'm at the hangar I'll get a picture of this if needed.
Thanks for taking a look.
Sean B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Got a picture?
I've just finished my elevators a few weeks ago, and after taking
another look at them I still can't figure out what you're referring to.
A picture's worth a thousand words.....
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone
Sean Blair wrote:
> Quick question please....I'm almost ready to start dimpling and
> priming the elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is
> very near the trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin.
> There doesn't seem to be anything under it, so I'm confused by this.
> Has anyone else seen this? What should I do? Just dimple it and fill
> with a flush rivet?
>
> Sorry if this in the archives, couldn't find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB(reserved)
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Sean,
I just looked at my completedd elevators. There no extra holes in either the top
or bottom skins anywhere near the trailing edges. These are the ones with
trim tab cutouts. Just to make sure you are referencing the elevator and not the
rudder (or some other part)?
I do have missing holes in fuselage bottom skin though, May you got them? :)
Pictures if at all possible.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I believe they'll be about $425 or something in that neighborhood.
I would bet that you'll hear back after the weekend. Also try
Stein...I know he was trying to work on being a distributor
for Gretz, so he'd be selling them at the same price but since
you can add other stuff to your order, it might be beneficial
to get it with other supplies.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> For those who bought heated pitots from Gretz, how much were they? I've
> tried to contact them by e-mail but haven't received any response.
> Wanted a price and ordering info. Thanks
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 |
Dan,
Just as a data point, I flew skydivers out of W34 for years in an underpowered,
always at gross (ehem) C182. Two turf runways with one being 1400ft and the
other 2300ft. Elevation was around 760 feet MSL. Even during the 80 - 90 degree
humid August weather I never had a problem departing on the 1400 foot runway.
Turf will lengthen the TO distance and shorten the landing distance because
of the additional drag of the grass. Now then, with that said, my 260+ HP
RV-10 better be able to out perform that 182 or I want my money back! :-)
Seriously though, a 2500ft strip should be more than enough even for testing
purposes. The key is to follow what YOU are comfortable with and always run the
performance numbers at least until you are VERY comfortable with all performance
envelopes. If a half mile turf strip still gives you butterflies, pack
it up and take it to an airport with a 5000 foot asphalt until you know the plane
better. As the old saying goes the two most useless things to an aviator
is the sky above and the runway behind.
Based on the current published numbers I have absolutely no problem using a 1300
foot turf strip that I will be putting in, with no obstacles mind you, and
I would expect much less than that once I am comfortable with the aircraft.
Then again I have hundreds of hours flying that beat up 182 on turf and dropping
it back to the ground with a roll out of about 400 feet on average. I still
may take it out to a asphalt runway for the shake down but it will probably
get there under it's own power. Of course I will reevaluate my test plans once
a few more people are in the air and I start to see a comfortable average.
My 2 cents
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Charrois
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Charrois <danlist@syz.com>
Thanks for the wonderful responses I received about my posting for the minimum
practical runway length for an RV-10.
One thing I forgot to mention in my posting was our elevation. We're not terribly
high, but not at sea level either - at about 2300 feet ASL. From the advice
I've been given, coupled with the altitude, I've come to the conclusion that
for safety's sake, I will either:
- need to find land in the area I can lease that will give me at least 3000 feet
of distance (maybe even more), especially during the testing phases
- rent some hanger space in one of the nearest airports to finish up construction
of the plane and do flight testing at. This would without doubt be the safest
option.
Then, once everything is done and I'm comfortable with the plane, I can test things
on existing long grass strips to see if a strip on our land is feasible and
comfortable or just asking for trouble.
It's not anywhere near as convenient as just being able to use the land we already
have, but I'd rather trade off safety for convenience :-)
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
Message 17
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| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
Jim,
Thanks for all the effort. I went back out to the hangar a snapped a few
photos. It turns out that the hole is only in the top right skin, not the
left, and just above the tenth and eleventh hole from the outboard side
along the trailing edge. I marked it with a cleco for reference.
It's strange to me why it's there, but not a big deal. A flush rivet should
be the fix.
Thanks for the input.
Sean B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Sean,
I just looked at my completedd elevators. There no extra holes in either
the top or bottom skins anywhere near the trailing edges. These are the
ones with trim tab cutouts. Just to make sure you are referencing the
elevator and not the rudder (or some other part)?
I do have missing holes in fuselage bottom skin though, May you got them? :)
Pictures if at all possible.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Friggin tank ribs |
John
What was wrong with your aileron bracket
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on ailerons
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Friggin tank ribs
Michael,
Great save! That's the 51% they talk about. Even though we're building
the same kit it should be understood that Van's can make a mistake from time
to time. Looks like you solved the problem. BTW while we're on the subject
of mistakes, I had a problem with the W-1013C-L aileron bracket. It was not
manufactured right. A fellow builder in the area had the same problem. We
received our wings about mid May. Van's sent us replacements.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
A note about revisions: You cannot trust the plans that come with your
kit, so verify your plans revisions!!! I bought my FWF kit on
5/25/2005. My plans on page FF1-4 were dated something like 1/26/2005.
One of the recent parts that I thought I was missing has turned up...
I had almost called to complain to Van's about a missing fitting, but as
it turned out, the plans had changed on 2/22/05, and now that fitting
was no longer required. Don't ask me why when I purchased plans on
5/25, 3 months after the revision, they didn't send me a complete set of
plans with the revision in them. This to me is another spectacular
example of where customer service should absolutely be improved. In
addition, it would be no major deal for any organized company to send
out email notices to their RV-10 builders to notify them of plans
changes.....but I suppose why bother, from what it appears, usually when
they have problems with the plans or parts, they thend to just ignore
the people who call and tell them anyway.
I'm not trying to beat them up, but I'd think that when someone
puts down over $40,000 with a company, they'd send them with current
set of plans, or at least send the revision along with them.
That said, I do check their site periodically for updates, and I
had downloaded and printed them all. At the time, I hadn't even
received the FWF kit plans, so the paper was still stuffed with my
finishing kit plans, so it got overlooked. I guess I assumed that
when you buy a kit, you're receiving the latest and greatest plans.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 20
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| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
Sean,
Since I am just about to get started on the elevator, I spent a bit of time
today going over the plans for this section. The skins are identical until
you bend the tabs in, so if you have it on one of the skins but not the other,
it is not supposed to be there. I also took a look at my skins and that hole
is not there.
Sean Blair <seanblair@adelphia.net> wrote:
Jim,
Thanks for all the effort. I went back out to the hangar a snapped a few
photos. It turns out that the hole is only in the top right skin, not the
left, and just above the tenth and eleventh hole from the outboard side
along the trailing edge. I marked it with a cleco for reference.
It's strange to me why it's there, but not a big deal. A flush rivet should
be the fix.
Thanks for the input.
Sean B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
Sean,
I just looked at my completedd elevators. There no extra holes in either
the top or bottom skins anywhere near the trailing edges. These are the
ones with trim tab cutouts. Just to make sure you are referencing the
elevator and not the rudder (or some other part)?
I do have missing holes in fuselage bottom skin though, May you got them? :)
Pictures if at all possible.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Air vent location problem |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Anyone coming up on complete with their fuselage who can verify how
their air vents are looking in the front seats?
My panel is clecod in place, and I was about to paint my air vents so
I could glue them in, but today I found an issue. Those pre-cut NACA
vents that I've heard complained about before (at least one person
calls them gonad vents, since they pretty much aim in that one position)
are in a pretty bad position. I found that I cannot get the duct to
go up and properly cover the cutout in the skin, because the cabin
vent side (the square part) hits the panel by about 1/4" or maybe
more. So in order to get the thing to fit, it would have to be
glued in cockeyed. This would be MUCH better handled if they
had never cut a hole in the fuselage in the first place, and just
provided the builder a template in their plans. It could be a lot
of work to make that thing disappear and relocate.
The other possible fix would be to cut off that 2nd part (the
squared part that holds the eyeball valve) and maybe relocate
that portion using some ducting, but it'll look kind of stupid
unless done in some great way.
Also, to add some info on this for another list member...
Sorry John, but it doesn't look like this thing could be relocated
one bay forward on the side. There isn't enough room above the
rudder pedal attach blocks, and you can't mount it below those
blocks because they'll interfere with the rudder pedals.
About the only choice would be to put them about 8-10" lower
than they are, but that would even make them more useless.
So far, it's hard to find a "best" solution, because the -10's
who are flying that I've looked at closely have all gone
"custom"....Randy with his panel, and Vic with his panel.
Jesse, what did you do?
Here is a photo of one of the Colorado RV-10's that's a bit
revealing too:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/Colorado_10s/P200507280091.html
You'll notice that they chopped off the large square part and
stuck in some smaller vent...sacrificing airflow useability for
the ability to get it to fit.
Any other good ideas??
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
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| Subject: | Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I agree Tim! I think you would be better off without all the aggravation
having to deal with all of this. I'll make you a deal. I'll buy your kit
and those junk plans, pay you for all of the extra freight charges you
encountered. You can go fly the beloved Sundowner and no longer have to
deal with the frustration. I call you next year when I am 3 hours out
from Oshkosh and give you a head start so we can land at the same time.
Get back to building! Say hi to the family. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
A note about revisions: You cannot trust the plans that come with your
kit, so verify your plans revisions!!! I bought my FWF kit on
5/25/2005. My plans on page FF1-4 were dated something like 1/26/2005.
One of the recent parts that I thought I was missing has turned up...
I had almost called to complain to Van's about a missing fitting, but as
it turned out, the plans had changed on 2/22/05, and now that fitting
was no longer required. Don't ask me why when I purchased plans on
5/25, 3 months after the revision, they didn't send me a complete set of
plans with the revision in them. This to me is another spectacular
example of where customer service should absolutely be improved. In
addition, it would be no major deal for any organized company to send
out email notices to their RV-10 builders to notify them of plans
changes.....but I suppose why bother, from what it appears, usually when
they have problems with the plans or parts, they thend to just ignore
the people who call and tell them anyway.
I'm not trying to beat them up, but I'd think that when someone
puts down over $40,000 with a company, they'd send them with current
set of plans, or at least send the revision along with them.
That said, I do check their site periodically for updates, and I
had downloaded and printed them all. At the time, I hadn't even
received the FWF kit plans, so the paper was still stuffed with my
finishing kit plans, so it got overlooked. I guess I assumed that
when you buy a kit, you're receiving the latest and greatest plans.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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