Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:57 AM - Hugo Rv10 ()
2. 05:14 AM - Re: Hugo Rv10 (James Hein)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: Hugo Rv10 (Bill and Tami Britton)
4. 06:14 AM - Bonding Straps (Bill and Tami Britton)
5. 07:04 AM - Re: Bonding Straps (Rene Felker)
6. 07:27 AM - Re: Props (Brian Sponcil)
7. 07:43 AM - Re: Props (BPA)
8. 07:55 AM - Re: Hugo Rv10 (Tim Olson)
9. 07:59 AM - static wicks (Chris Hukill)
10. 11:34 AM - Re: Bonding Straps (Darton Steve)
11. 01:39 PM - Door Safety Straps (Jesse Saint)
12. 02:14 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (Jim Combs)
13. 03:19 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (Tim Olson)
14. 03:51 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (James Ochs)
15. 04:02 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (Neal George)
16. 04:02 PM - Re: Bonding Straps (James Ochs)
17. 04:02 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (Jim Combs)
18. 04:26 PM - Re: Bonding Straps (Rene Felker)
19. 05:44 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
20. 06:32 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 07:26 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
22. 07:48 PM - Re: Props (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
23. 07:58 PM - Millennium Props (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
24. 09:38 PM - Trim Tab Bend (Shawn Moon)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating (LED)beacon in
the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of the rudder,any body
install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
Hugo
I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft >Lauderdale,Today
I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase direct)
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hugo,
Check the archives; I asked this question once and was laughed into
oblivion!
Seriously though, there is none. The white strobe is your anticollision
lighting (instead of the beacon).
-Jim 40384
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating (LED)beacon
in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of the rudder,any body
install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
>Hugo
>I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft >Lauderdale,Today
I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase direct)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
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* lines
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
* 0.9 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
I have a cats whisker vor/loc/gs antenna mounted on top of my VS.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
(LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of the
rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
> Hugo
> I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft
>Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase direct)
>
>
Message 4
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spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
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* 0.6 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding straps, I
realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the HS to attach the
bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody see any reason I couldn't
drill them out now and just use blind rivets to hold the nutplates in place???
A couple obvious problems would be metal shavings between the hinge and rear
spar from drilling, and deburring. I have the #30 and #40 cogsdill tools so
deburring the small holes would be no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
probably use a small file on it.
I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I was just
in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out further.
Message 5
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You could use a click bond nutplate and thus only have to deal with one
hole. A little pricy, but easy to install.
T. Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Bonding Straps
Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding
straps, I realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the HS to
attach the bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody see any
reason I couldn't drill them out now and just use blind rivets to hold the
nutplates in place??? A couple obvious problems would be metal shavings
between the hinge and rear spar from drilling, and deburring. I have the
#30 and #40 cogsdill tools so deburring the small holes would be no problem.
As for the larger hole, I could probably use a small file on it.
I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I was
just in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out
further.
Message 6
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Here's the FAA link
http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/programs/sups/upn/media/UPN%202004-00041.pdf
Sounds like he's in a bit of trouble.....
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Props
For those who might be interested in having a custom built prop, I'm having a
3 bladed c/s prop built by Johnny Downs of Millennium Propellers in Lancaster,
TX., tel 469-231-6225, for considerably cheaper than either Hartzel, McCaulley
or MT.
I am not soliciting for Johnny, but he has been in the prop business for years.
He has an FAA action pending, but you need to talk to him about it.
Cheers - John #40404
Message 7
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Here is the action pending on that prop shop down south, FYI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Props
Here's the FAA link
http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/programs/sups/upn/media/UPN%202004-00
041.pdf
Sounds like he's in a bit of trouble.....
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Props
I'm having a 3 bladed c/s prop built by Johnny Downs of Millennium
Propellers in Lancaster, TX., tel 469-231-6225, for considerably cheaper
than either Hartzel, McCaulley or MT.
I am not soliciting for Johnny, but he has been in the prop
business for years.
He has an FAA action pending, but you need to talk to him about
it.
Cheers - John #40404
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just mounted a cat whiskers antenna under my tail this week. I think
above would be fine too, but on the bottom was a plain and simple
install and it is protected by the VS. Besides that, I didn't figure
it would have any worse reception since it's receiving ground
stations, so there may be slightly less shading from aircraft.
I also plan to put my NAV2 antenna in the wingtip as a Bob Archer
Nav. For my Nav1 I didn't want to sacrifice anything at all
for signal. For those who think I should have gone with 2 Bob
archers, don't waste your time, I've got my mind made up on
that one. They could have performed just as well, and I
understand that, but I wasn't willing to take the chance of
having the signal shadowed by the airframe. I'm not planning
for "light" IFR....if there is such a thing.
As for your beacon on the tail, I can see doing that, if you
don't want to have to run your individual strobes all the
time. A tail mounted beacon is certainly acceptable. I opted
to go with constantly using 3 point strobes in the wingtips
and tail.
Tim
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
> (LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part
> of the rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of
> the VS? Hugo I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer
> at Ft >Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can
> purchase direct)
>
>
Message 9
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Bill
I used 6/32 nuplates on R101G-L and R1010F-L stiffeners. They are mounted with
1 1/8 inch spacing and the aft nutplate is 2 1/4 inches from the trailing edge.
This allows me to use some older Cessna type static wicks that I had on hand, but
is also the same spacing that the newer Cessna wicks use. They don't screw
in, rather the base is mounted to the control surface as a single piece.
The bonding straps are attached to the rudder using the hole that the plans calls
for a rivet in the upper hole on the R608PP and R607PP doublers. The lower
bearing strap attaches to the bottom hole in the rudder spar.
This allows for a strap that goes under the bolt head of the bearing pivot bolt,
and attaches to the rudder at those points, to the nutplates that where installed
in the holes. I will do this on all primary control surfaces. If your rudder
is already closed up, it would be acceptable to pop rivet the straps to the
control surface, as many production airplane manufacturers have done. I will
have to do this on my ailerons, as they are quickbuild, and closed up.
Irregardless of what some posters may think, it is very important to have these
straps, as close to the bearings as possible, to help protect those bearings
from not only welding tight, but also from electrolic corrosion produced from
years of service, flying in clouds. At least that was what I was taught 25 years
ago while attending A&P school. Maybe things have changed since then?
Chris Hukill
Starting RV-10 HS
Flying RV-8
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Bonding Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Bill,
I have some larger size used Burraway bits I will sell
at a reasonable cost. If you are interested e-mail me
off list.
Steve 40212
--- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
> Amid all the conversation going on about the static
> wicks and bonding straps, I realized I forgot to put
> the nutplates on the hinges of the HS to attach the
> bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody
> see any reason I couldn't drill them out now and
> just use blind rivets to hold the nutplates in
> place??? A couple obvious problems would be metal
> shavings between the hinge and rear spar from
> drilling, and deburring. I have the #30 and #40
> cogsdill tools so deburring the small holes would be
> no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
> probably use a small file on it.
>
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first
> time but I guess I was just in too big of a hurry to
> get my first piece completed.
>
> Anybody see any bigger problems I may be
> overlooking???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Elevators
>
> PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding
> strap thing out further.
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
Has anybody heard of someone making safety straps for the RV-10 doors? We
recently heard that a Lancair had a door come open on takeoff and if it
hadn't been for their safety device the door would have flown open and who
knows what other damage would have been caused. Has anybody even though
about this option?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Jesse,
I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the bottom.
The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out of the
way during loading / unloading operations.
The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight configuration,
it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed due to
the direction of the airstream.
Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane flight configuration,
should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading are a little
bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not seen anyone put
a gas strut on one yet!).
My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap is
not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or some other
method).
However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after flying.
Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
Later, Jim C
#40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ummm....Jim... the main doors I think is what he means. <no insult
intended, of course> I think it could be nasty with the gull-wing
doors opening in flight.
After doing the door latches though, I would think that it would
be hard to have the -10 gullwings open in flight if you actually
have them closed and latched all the way. I guess a safety strap
isn't a bad idea, but there are a couple of good sized 7/16" thick
aluminum pins holding it down, so short of one of the pinned
ends by the rack gear come free, it would be hard to see anything
going suddenly wrong.
Just an opinion.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Jesse,
>
> I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the
bottom. The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out of
the way during loading / unloading operations.
>
> The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight configuration,
it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed due
to the direction of the airstream.
>
> Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane flight
configuration, should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading are a little
bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not seen anyone put
a gas strut on one yet!).
>
> My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap is
not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or some
other method).
>
> However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after flying.
Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
>
> Later, Jim C
> #40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Anyone figure out a locking mechanism for them yet? To keep them closed
while unattended on the ground if you know what I mean ;)
James
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Ummm....Jim... the main doors I think is what he means. <no insult
> intended, of course> I think it could be nasty with the gull-wing
> doors opening in flight.
>
> After doing the door latches though, I would think that it would
> be hard to have the -10 gullwings open in flight if you actually
> have them closed and latched all the way. I guess a safety strap
> isn't a bad idea, but there are a couple of good sized 7/16" thick
> aluminum pins holding it down, so short of one of the pinned
> ends by the rack gear come free, it would be hard to see anything
> going suddenly wrong.
>
> Just an opinion.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Neal George" <neal@appaero.com>
Harbor Freight has a 20-Ft log chain for about $20...
Neal (sorry can't help it)
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Anyone figure out a locking mechanism for them yet? To keep them closed
while unattended on the ground if you know what I mean ;)
James
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Bonding Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hrm, since they are attached with adhesive, doesn't that mean that they
wont make a good electrical connection for the bonding straps?
Someone else suggested putting the strap on the bolt that goes through
the hinge and the bracket, but if I'm interpreting this correctly it
seems like that would force the current flow through the bearing which
is what we are trying to avoid... Or did he mean to fasten it
underneath the bolt that
has the bearing on one end and goes through the spar at the spar side?
If one was to retrofit the nutplates with blind rivets, how will you get
the nutplate behind the spar? I think I can do that on the HS through
the lightening holes but it looks like it wouldn't be possilbe on the
completed VS/rudder.
Rene Felker wrote:
> You could use a click bond nutplate and thus only have to deal with
> one hole. A little pricy, but easy to install.
>
>
>
> T. Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Friday, September 09, 2005 7:15 AM
> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Bonding Straps
>
>
>
> Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding
> straps, I realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the
> HS to attach the bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody
> see any reason I couldn't drill them out now and just use blind rivets
> to hold the nutplates in place??? A couple obvious problems would be
> metal shavings between the hinge and rear spar from drilling, and
> deburring. I have the #30 and #40 cogsdill tools so deburring the
> small holes would be no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
> probably use a small file on it.
>
>
>
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I
> was just in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
>
>
>
> Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
>
>
>
> Bill Britton
>
> RV-10 Elevators
>
>
>
> PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out
> further.
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Ahh yes, he was talking main doors.
I am not there yet, so I can't comment on main doors.
But what about making a small latch like that used on hotel doors that could be
"hooked". If hooked, the door could be opened a couple of inches, but not allowed
to swing all the way. Might be nice to have during taxi on a really hot
day as well. (No Air Conditioner comments allowed!) It could double as a safety
for an in-flight unlocking of the doors?
The downside, it's another thing on the take-off checklist to miss!
Jim C
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ummm....Jim... the main doors I think is what he means. <no insult
intended, of course> I think it could be nasty with the gull-wing
doors opening in flight.
After doing the door latches though, I would think that it would
be hard to have the -10 gullwings open in flight if you actually
have them closed and latched all the way. I guess a safety strap
isn't a bad idea, but there are a couple of good sized 7/16" thick
aluminum pins holding it down, so short of one of the pinned
ends by the rack gear come free, it would be hard to see anything
going suddenly wrong.
Just an opinion.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Jesse,
>
> I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the
bottom. The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out of
the way during loading / unloading operations.
>
> The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight configuration,
it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed due
to the direction of the airstream.
>
> Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane flight
configuration, should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading are a little
bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not seen anyone put
a gas strut on one yet!).
>
> My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap is
not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or some
other method).
>
> However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after flying.
Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
>
> Later, Jim C
> #40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
As far as the adhesive is concerned, you would have to make a contact area
on the bolt side and not depend on the nutplate providing the current path.
I would think you would want to do that anyway.
Rene
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bonding Straps
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hrm, since they are attached with adhesive, doesn't that mean that they
wont make a good electrical connection for the bonding straps?
Someone else suggested putting the strap on the bolt that goes through
the hinge and the bracket, but if I'm interpreting this correctly it
seems like that would force the current flow through the bearing which
is what we are trying to avoid... Or did he mean to fasten it
underneath the bolt that
has the bearing on one end and goes through the spar at the spar side?
If one was to retrofit the nutplates with blind rivets, how will you get
the nutplate behind the spar? I think I can do that on the HS through
the lightening holes but it looks like it wouldn't be possilbe on the
completed VS/rudder.
Rene Felker wrote:
> You could use a click bond nutplate and thus only have to deal with
> one hole. A little pricy, but easy to install.
>
>
>
> T. Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Friday, September 09, 2005 7:15 AM
> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Bonding Straps
>
>
>
> Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding
> straps, I realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the
> HS to attach the bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody
> see any reason I couldn't drill them out now and just use blind rivets
> to hold the nutplates in place??? A couple obvious problems would be
> metal shavings between the hinge and rear spar from drilling, and
> deburring. I have the #30 and #40 cogsdill tools so deburring the
> small holes would be no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
> probably use a small file on it.
>
>
>
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I
> was just in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
>
>
>
> Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
>
>
>
> Bill Britton
>
> RV-10 Elevators
>
>
>
> PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out
> further.
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
I thought about putting in either a snap on strap, or Velcro, you have
to be careful that it will be a breakaway type item in case of a crash
or fire. I thought a properly placed Velcro strip would be enough to
hold it shut just in case but not long enough to cause egress problems,
but it would be a fine line...
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
Has anybody heard of someone making safety straps for the RV-10 doors?
We recently heard that a Lancair had a door come open on takeoff and if
it hadn't been for their safety device the door would have flown open
and who knows what other damage would have been caused. Has anybody
even though about this option?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 20
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| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
One thing I loved about the demo ride in the Velocity XL-5 in Florida was being
able to taxi with those big gull wing doors open. I commented to Ken Scott
about this during my -10 ride and he thought it would be possible to put a strap
on them so you could reach them from the seated position and taxi with them
open.
Being in Texas at the moment I see this as a requirement in the summer. Call
me a wuss but that's what happens when a Wisconsinite is transplanted to a much
warmer climate. :-)
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Ahh yes, he was talking main doors.
I am not there yet, so I can't comment on main doors.
But what about making a small latch like that used on hotel doors that could be
"hooked". If hooked, the door could be opened a couple of inches, but not allowed
to swing all the way. Might be nice to have during taxi on a really hot
day as well. (No Air Conditioner comments allowed!) It could double as a safety
for an in-flight unlocking of the doors?
The downside, it's another thing on the take-off checklist to miss!
Jim C
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ummm....Jim... the main doors I think is what he means. <no insult intended, of
course> I think it could be nasty with the gull-wing doors opening in flight.
After doing the door latches though, I would think that it would be hard to have
the -10 gullwings open in flight if you actually have them closed and latched
all the way. I guess a safety strap isn't a bad idea, but there are a couple
of good sized 7/16" thick aluminum pins holding it down, so short of one of
the pinned ends by the rack gear come free, it would be hard to see anything going
suddenly wrong.
Just an opinion.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
> --> <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Jesse,
>
> I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the
bottom. The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out of
the way during loading / unloading operations.
>
> The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight configuration,
it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed due
to the direction of the airstream.
>
> Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane flight
configuration, should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading are a little
bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not seen anyone put
a gas strut on one yet!).
>
> My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap is
not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or some
other method).
>
> However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after flying.
Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
>
> Later, Jim C
> #40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
I think Vic Syracuse has a "pull down strap" on his machine, or it seemed so in
a picture . . .
TDT
do not archive
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
One thing I loved about the demo ride in the Velocity XL-5 in Florida was being
able to taxi with those big gull wing doors open. I commented to Ken Scott
about this during my -10 ride and he thought it would be possible to put a strap
on them so you could reach them from the seated position and taxi with them
open.
Being in Texas at the moment I see this as a requirement in the summer. Call
me a wuss but that's what happens when a Wisconsinite is transplanted to a much
warmer climate. :-)
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Ahh yes, he was talking main doors.
I am not there yet, so I can't comment on main doors.
But what about making a small latch like that used on hotel doors that could be
"hooked". If hooked, the door could be opened a couple of inches, but not allowed
to swing all the way. Might be nice to have during taxi on a really hot
day as well. (No Air Conditioner comments allowed!) It could double as a safety
for an in-flight unlocking of the doors?
The downside, it's another thing on the take-off checklist to miss!
Jim C
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ummm....Jim... the main doors I think is what he means. <no insult intended, of
course> I think it could be nasty with the gull-wing doors opening in flight.
After doing the door latches though, I would think that it would be hard to have
the -10 gullwings open in flight if you actually have them closed and latched
all the way. I guess a safety strap isn't a bad idea, but there are a couple
of good sized 7/16" thick aluminum pins holding it down, so short of one of
the pinned ends by the rack gear come free, it would be hard to see anything going
suddenly wrong.
Just an opinion.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
> --> <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Jesse,
>
> I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the
bottom. The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out of
the way during loading / unloading operations.
>
> The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight configuration,
it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed due
to the direction of the airstream.
>
> Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane flight
configuration, should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading are a little
bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not seen anyone put
a gas strut on one yet!).
>
> My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap is
not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or some
other method).
>
> However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after flying.
Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
>
> Later, Jim C
> #40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
>
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
Message 22
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Again. I suggest that you contact Mr Downs for the "rest of the story" as the
saying goes.
I am more than happy having him build me a prop.
cheers - grumpy
Message 23
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| Subject: | Millennium Props |
For those who want to contact my prop maker, it is Johnny Downs of Millennium
Propellers in Lancaster, TX., tel 469-231-6225.
He can tell you the "rest of the story" on the FAA action.
grumpy - 40404
In a message dated 9/8/2005 10:52:24 PM Central Standard Time,
schmoboy@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I can't seem to find any contact info on the web for a Mr. Downs that
does propellers.
Can you point us in the right direction?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
Message 24
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All,
I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of bending
the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this thing bent? I can't
figure out what I can get in there to hold the small portion of skin flat
against the workbench to get it bent over. Now that the end tabs are bent over,
they hit against any piece of wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions
would be helpful. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
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