Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:32 AM - Re: Trim Tab Bend (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
2. 06:53 AM - Re: Re: Door Safety Straps ()
3. 08:19 AM - Re: Trim Tab Bend (Darton Steve)
4. 08:21 AM - Gear elastomers (Rob Kermanj)
5. 08:22 AM - Re: Trim Tab Bend (PJ Seipel)
6. 08:36 AM - Re: Gear elastomers (brian bollaert)
7. 09:17 AM - Re: Cabin Air - vents (Dave & Brenda Emond)
8. 10:15 AM - Re: Bonding Straps (John Kirkland)
9. 02:05 PM - Re: Door Safety Straps (Jesse Saint)
10. 02:55 PM - Re: Gear elastomers (Jesse Saint)
11. 03:01 PM - Oil Filter Adapter (Jesse Saint)
12. 03:16 PM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter (linn walters)
13. 04:59 PM - Re: Gear elastomers (Tim Olson)
14. 05:02 PM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter (Jesse Saint)
15. 05:14 PM - Re: Gear elastomers (bob.kaufmann)
16. 06:42 PM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter (Brian)
17. 07:02 PM - Riveting rudder pedal brace (Aaron Sims)
18. 07:19 PM - Re: Trim Tab Bend (Shawn Moon)
19. 08:09 PM - Re: Riveting rudder pedal brace (PJ Seipel)
20. 08:42 PM - Re: Trim Tab Bend (Sean Stephens)
Message 1
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Use your seamers, and get it close, this bend is to make sure it clears
the bottom of the elevator, do several test fits, and make sure it is
far enough
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Bend
All,
I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of
bending the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this
thing bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to hold the
small portion of skin flat against the workbench to get it bent over.
Now that the end tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of wood
that I try to put there. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
HI,GUYS,Hugo here .If any body will like to test an strap of rubber coated fabric(I'm
a Inflatables boat builder)the Hypalon fabric is very tough ,very soft,no
way will broke if the dor open,when glued together the comercial style it is
not way of brake it.if somebody will experiment I will be happy to sen pieces(free),the
only problem is the glue ,cannot be shipp by air,eventually I will
made some parts in the way I intend to do for me and shipp together,let me know
Hugo
>
> From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> Date: 2005/09/09 Fri PM 08:43:38 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
>
> I thought about putting in either a snap on strap, or Velcro, you have
> to be careful that it will be a breakaway type item in case of a crash
> or fire. I thought a properly placed Velcro strip would be enough to
> hold it shut just in case but not long enough to cause egress problems,
> but it would be a fine line...
> Dan
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 4:37 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
>
>
>
> Has anybody heard of someone making safety straps for the RV-10 doors?
> We recently heard that a Lancair had a door come open on takeoff and if
> it hadn't been for their safety device the door would have flown open
> and who knows what other damage would have been caused. Has anybody
> even though about this option?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
Shawn,
I took a piece of 2X6 cut to the length of the trim
tab minus 1/8" for clearance. Then I ran it through my
table saw (use the thinnest cutting blade you can
find) making a slot the depth of the bent flange about
one inch from the edge. Then trim the 2X6 off from the
slot on an angle outward for clearance so when you
slip the flange into the slot and bend the whole
flange at once you have clearance. I thought a picture
would describe it easier so I dug the board out of the
scrap wood stack, it's a little beat up but you get
the idea.
Steve 40212
--- Shawn Moon <moons1999@yahoo.com> wrote:
> All,
> I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have
> come to the point of bending the skin 15 degrees
> (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this thing
> bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to
> hold the small portion of skin flat against the
> workbench to get it bent over. Now that the end
> tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of
> wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions would
> be helpful. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> __________________________________________________
> protection around
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
before the clamp bend and wants to give.
I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
identified but is the only part that fits under it.
Thanks. Ro.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
As mentioned you can use the seamers. I built my trim tabs twice. On
my first set I used the seamer and ended up with a 15 degree bend that
was wavy as hell and my little end tabs came out very badly. If you use
the seamer be careful and go slowly or it'll make a mess.
When I built my second set I cut them apart along the trailing edge and
riveted the trailing edge with AEX wedge just like all the other control
surfaces on the plane. One of the big advantages of doing it that way
is that I could do the little end rib bends and the 15 degree bend with
ease because I didn't have to deal with the rest of the tab being in the
way. Came out much better, and I'm disappointed that Van's didn't just
have us do it this way to begin with.
PJ
40032
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of
> bending the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this
> thing bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to hold the
> small portion of skin flat against the workbench to get it bent over.
> Now that the end tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of
> wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> __________________________________________________
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hi Rob:
I had the same problem until i figured out that the powder coating was up to
far on the (rod ) cant' remember the part number at home ! take it off about
an inch or so and it will go right thru that hole , and then you can insert
the bolt . The tolerances are real close .
Brian Bollaert
#40200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kermanj" <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>
> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>
> Thanks. Ro.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Air - vents |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond@mweb.co.za>
Vans had a pair of aluminum "eyeball" type air vents on show at Oshkosh, has
anyone fitted these to their RV 10 yet. I would be interested to hear what
vents are being used by other builders
Dave Emond
busy on the fuse
#40159
----- Original Message -----
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Rob:
>
> I had the same problem until i figured out that the powder coating was up
> to
> far on the (rod ) cant' remember the part number at home ! take it off
> about
> an inch or so and it will go right thru that hole , and then you can
> insert
> the bolt . The tolerances are real close .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> #40200
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Kermanj" <rv10es@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 8:18 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
>> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
>> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
>> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>>
>> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
>> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>>
>> Thanks. Ro.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bonding Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Bill and Tami Britton writes:
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I was just
in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
>
You ought to go out to the airport and see what the factories did when they
built the Cessnas, Pipers, and Beechcrafts. Bonding straps and static wicks
were obviously added as an option once the aircraft was completely assembled
and painted. Last things they did before flying it out of the factory for
delivery. No problem. The C-182 I flew yesterday has the wicks pop riveted
thru the skins, squeezing them together a bit, the bonding strap lugs go
thru the hinge bolt and the other end is just a machine screw drilled
randomly into the spar where it was convenient. Go look at the ramp for
ideas before drilling apart anything you've got done.
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 9
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| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I'm talking about the main doors, not the baggage door.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Jesse,
I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the
bottom. The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out
of the way during loading / unloading operations.
The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight
configuration, it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed
due to the direction of the airstream.
Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane
flight configuration, should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading
are a little bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not
seen anyone put a gas strut on one yet!).
My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap
is not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or
some other method).
However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after
flying. Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
Later, Jim C
#40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary leverage to
compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
before the clamp bend and wants to give.
I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
identified but is the only part that fits under it.
Thanks. Ro.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter |
We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One thing
we noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking off that oil
fliter that is sticking straight out the back of the engine without getting
oil all over everything. Unless there is a good way to drain the oil filter
before taking it off, we need to find a trick to make this possible. For
those of you who have engines that don't yet have an oil filter adapter on
them, I think there is a right angle one that will have the filter pointing
straight up. This would help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the
oil out of the filter before you take it off. Second, it will be very much
easier to get at to install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter
sticks aft to flush with the firewall (right there where the recessed box
is).
If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That is a
really messy process.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter |
There are a couple of things you can do. Make a tray out of a plastic
milk jug to 'funnel' spilled oil from the seal end towards the firewall
where it can be collected in a can or bottle. Of course, if you have
stuff in the way you'll have to find another direction to 'funnel' it
to. It make a custom fiberglas part with a drain hose down to a
container. Be creative, because you're going to use this a lot if you
fly a lot!!! The second thing is to take a nail and punch a hole in
the top side of the filter. This lets air in so the oil can drain.
After a (undertimed) duration of time, turn the filter 1/2 turn so that
the nail hole is over your 'funnel' so the rest of the oil can drain
out. You'll have to poke another hole in the top to let the air in
again. After the filter had drained (no more drips) then remove the
filter and your 'funnel'.
Best of luck.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
> We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One
> thing we noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking
> off that oil fliter that is sticking straight out the back of the
> engine without getting oil all over everything. Unless there is a
> good way to drain the oil filter before taking it off, we need to find
> a trick to make this possible. For those of you who have engines that
> don't yet have an oil filter adapter on them, I think there is a right
> angle one that will have the filter pointing straight up. This would
> help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the oil out of the
> filter before you take it off. Second, it will be very much easier to
> get at to install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter sticks
> aft to flush with the firewall (right there where the recessed box is).
>
>
>
> If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That
> is a really messy process.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Rob,
When I just did mine, it was pretty comical. I couldn't hardly
compress them and didn't have any great tool for the job.
What I did was to roll the plane out so the engine mount was
right under my garage door opening. I then climbed up on the
engine mount, and put my back against the top of the door
opening area and had my wife get the pin ready.
Then, I pushed my back up as hard as I could, pushing against
the door frame and pushing the plane down. It took about
every ounce of push that I could, but it was enough. It looked
and felt ridiculous, but at least it worked. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>
> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>
> Thanks. Ro.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter |
Awesome suggestion with the nail. Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter
There are a couple of things you can do. Make a tray out of a plastic milk
jug to 'funnel' spilled oil from the seal end towards the firewall where it
can be collected in a can or bottle. Of course, if you have stuff in the
way you'll have to find another direction to 'funnel' it to. It make a
custom fiberglas part with a drain hose down to a container. Be creative,
because you're going to use this a lot if you fly a lot!!! The second
thing is to take a nail and punch a hole in the top side of the filter.
This lets air in so the oil can drain. After a (undertimed) duration of
time, turn the filter 1/2 turn so that the nail hole is over your 'funnel'
so the rest of the oil can drain out. You'll have to poke another hole in
the top to let the air in again. After the filter had drained (no more
drips) then remove the filter and your 'funnel'.
Best of luck.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One thing
we noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking off that oil
fliter that is sticking straight out the back of the engine without getting
oil all over everything. Unless there is a good way to drain the oil filter
before taking it off, we need to find a trick to make this possible. For
those of you who have engines that don't yet have an oil filter adapter on
them, I think there is a right angle one that will have the filter pointing
straight up. This would help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the
oil out of the filter before you take it off. Second, it will be very much
easier to get at to install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter
sticks aft to flush with the firewall (right there where the recessed box
is).
If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That is a
really messy process.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Tim
Send us the picture of that, I think it deserves to be on my wall next to
Rick riveting.
Bob K
Hi Rob,
When I just did mine, it was pretty comical. I couldn't hardly
compress them and didn't have any great tool for the job.
What I did was to roll the plane out so the engine mount was
right under my garage door opening. I then climbed up on the
engine mount, and put my back against the top of the door
opening area and had my wife get the pin ready.
Then, I pushed my back up as hard as I could, pushing against
the door frame and pushing the plane down. It took about
every ounce of push that I could, but it was enough. It looked
and felt ridiculous, but at least it worked. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter |
Avery has an oil filter drain kit:
http://www.averytools.com/cart/p-86-oil-filter-drain-kit.aspx
Seems like I have seen them elsewhere as well.
Brian
40308 (QB and finish arrived 09/09/05!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 5:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter
We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One thing we
noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking off that oil fliter
that is sticking straight out the back of the engine without getting oil all
over everything. Unless there is a good way to drain the oil filter before
taking it off, we need to find a trick to make this possible. For those of you
who have engines that don't yet have an oil filter adapter on them, I think
there is a right angle one that will have the filter pointing straight up. This
would help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the oil out of the filter
before you take it off. Second, it will be very much easier to get at to
install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter sticks aft to flush with the
firewall (right there where the recessed box is).
If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That is a really
messy process.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 17
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| Subject: | Riveting rudder pedal brace |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Aaron Sims <n217gt@gmail.com>
I'm ready to rivet the rudder pedal brace to the firewall (connects
to the recess on the firewall). However, my rivet gun won't fit
inside the recess to shoot the rivet. I'm tempted to use pop rivets
here since I can't think of a good way to drive the rivets. Anyone
have any tips to this using a solid AD rivet?
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
n217gt@gmail.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
I wondered about the trailing edge of these things myself. Thought it might look
a little bit odd having all of the other trailing edges being the wedge type
and these ones being bent. I think what I will end up doing is running out
this week to get the steel angle iron that I planned on getting for the rest of
the trailing edges. I should be able to clamp that with the skin between it
and the workbench. It will be thin enough to bend. Anybody know of a good place
to pick that up in Phoenix?
--Shawn
40366
PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel
As mentioned you can use the seamers. I built my trim tabs twice. On
my first set I used the seamer and ended up with a 15 degree bend that
was wavy as hell and my little end tabs came out very badly. If you use
the seamer be careful and go slowly or it'll make a mess.
When I built my second set I cut them apart along the trailing edge and
riveted the trailing edge with AEX wedge just like all the other control
surfaces on the plane. One of the big advantages of doing it that way
is that I could do the little end rib bends and the 15 degree bend with
ease because I didn't have to deal with the rest of the tab being in the
way. Came out much better, and I'm disappointed that Van's didn't just
have us do it this way to begin with.
PJ
40032
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of
> bending the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this
> thing bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to hold the
> small portion of skin flat against the workbench to get it bent over.
> Now that the end tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of
> wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> __________________________________________________
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting rudder pedal brace |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I back riveted them by having a partner hold a bucking bar on the
manufactured head.
PJ
40032
Aaron Sims wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Aaron Sims <n217gt@gmail.com>
>
> I'm ready to rivet the rudder pedal brace to the firewall (connects
> to the recess on the firewall). However, my rivet gun won't fit
> inside the recess to shoot the rivet. I'm tempted to use pop rivets
> here since I can't think of a good way to drive the rivets. Anyone
> have any tips to this using a solid AD rivet?
>
> Aaron
> --
> Aaron Sims
> RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
> http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
> n217gt@gmail.com
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Home Depot or Ace Hardware usually have angle iron in stock.
-Sean #40303 Cave Creek
Shawn Moon wrote:
> I wondered about the trailing edge of these things myself. Thought it
> might look a little bit odd having all of the other trailing edges
> being the wedge type and these ones being bent. I think what I will
> end up doing is running out this week to get the steel angle iron that
> I planned on getting for the rest of the trailing edges. I should be
> able to clamp that with the skin between it and the workbench. It
> will be thin enough to bend. Anybody know of a good place to pick
> that up in Phoenix?
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> */PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>/* wrote:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel
>
> As mentioned you can use the seamers. I built my trim tabs twice. On
> my first set I used the seamer and ended up with a 15 degree bend
> that
> was wavy as hell and my little end tabs came out very badly. If
> you use
> the seamer be careful and go slowly or it'll make a mess.
>
> When I built my second set I cut them apart along the trailing
> edge and
> riveted the trailing edge with AEX wedge just like all the other
> control
> surfaces on the plane. One of the big advantages of doing it that way
> is that I could do the little end rib bends and the 15 degree bend
> with
> ease because I didn't have to deal with the rest of the tab being
> in the
> way. Came out much better, and I'm disappointed that Van's didn't
> just
> have us do it this way to begin with.
>
> PJ
> 40032
>
> Shawn Moo n amp;
>
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