Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:48 AM - Oil door depth (Tim Olson)
2. 06:46 AM - Re: Gear elastomers (Jesse Saint)
3. 08:43 AM - trimtab trailing edges (Chris Hukill)
4. 09:30 AM - Where to buy... (David Talley)
5. 09:36 AM - Re: Gear elastomers (Rob Kermanj)
6. 11:36 AM - Oil FIlter Adapter (Bruce Case)
7. 12:07 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (David McNeill)
8. 12:08 PM - Van's electrical kit (Tim Olson)
9. 12:16 PM - AC power (David McNeill)
10. 12:27 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Werner Schneider)
11. 12:54 PM - Oil FIlter Adapter (Bruce Case)
12. 01:11 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
13. 01:34 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Tim Olson)
14. 02:10 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Dan Checkoway)
15. 02:31 PM - Re: trimtab trailing edges (PJ Seipel)
16. 02:42 PM - 2006 Calendar (Jim Combs)
17. 02:46 PM - Re: AC power (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 02:48 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Tim Olson)
19. 03:06 PM - Oil Filter Adapter (David Talley)
20. 04:50 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Scott Schmidt)
21. 06:07 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
22. 06:14 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt)
23. 06:19 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (linn walters)
24. 06:57 PM - CABIN DOORS (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
25. 07:04 PM - Re: AC power (William Curtis)
26. 07:59 PM - Re: trimtab trailing edges (Mike Kraus)
27. 08:22 PM - Fuselage building question (Mike Kraus)
28. 08:24 PM - Fuse wiring question (Mike Kraus)
29. 08:44 PM - Re: CABIN DOORS (Tim Olson)
30. 08:47 PM - Re: Fuse wiring question (Tim Olson)
31. 08:52 PM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (Scott Schmidt)
32. 08:55 PM - Re: Fuse wiring question (Scott Schmidt)
33. 09:09 PM - Re: Fuselage building question (Scott Schmidt)
34. 09:18 PM - Re: Fuse wiring question (David McNeill)
35. 09:37 PM - Re: Fuselage building question (Tim Olson)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is the oil access door hinge supposed to be visible when the door
is completed? Mine seems to sit very low if you rivet the hinge to
the inside of the cowl. Photos are at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050911/index.html
The cowl install is going very well so far. The plans have just
enough detail to make it pretty simple if you think through it.
Also, before I forget, Gus answered two of my questions. 1 question
was if the hardware for the VMP Kit was included. It was...he tipped
me off that it was all in a separate sub-kit bag. The 2nd point
actually makes me eat some words....those engine mount bolts. I had
thought that I was shorted the 4 AN7-26 bolts and associated washers
and nuts. They aren't listed in any of the hardware bags with all the
other similar hardware. Well, it turns out that they don't put these
parts in the hardware bags, but call them the DYNA BOLT KIT, so
you can't search paperwork other than noticing the name. My
mistake...I did have this bolt kit...it comes in a separate plastic
bag. So, that gets rid of one part issue I brought up. There are
still some other small quantities of things not right, but they're
not as major as engine mount bolts. They're doing real good
about taking care of things.
Still working on getting things painted in the next few weeks.
Found a guy who'll help do some prep and spraying, so that's
a great turn of events.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
No, we didn't have the engine on. It would be pretty hard to work on that
with the engine on. The suggestion of climbing on the engine mount and
pushing against the ceiling would probably work as well, and it would
certainly be better for pictures for the builder's log. Either way, it
should work. It does take a lot of pressure to compress them, which is the
way you want it.
Have fun.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the reply. I will try it. Did you have the engine on the
mount at the time you lifted the tail?
Thanks, Rob.
On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:54 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary
> leverage to
> compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 11:18 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>
> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>
> Thanks. Ro.
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | trimtab trailing edges |
I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no Proseal)
on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the idea of using
the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if the additional weight
of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern ? Is there a balance issue
with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans and ask them, I would sure like
to hear anyone's opinion on this concern. Thanks
Chris Hukill
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
0.15 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Folks,
Got back from a two week trip to my mother-in-laws (!) and I had over
700 emails in my RV-10 account.
Just got caught up on Sunday.
Here's a couple of answers to some questions:
Clecos: I got mine at ATS, they had the lowest prices for NEW ones.
This was around last Christmas...
Wire: Contact the following guy at wire masters: "Glenn Hill"
<ghill@wiremasters.net>
Note: when we buy wire we buy in 1000 foot or 500 foot increments.
The BIG (read expensive) stuff we usually get in 100 foot
increments. If wire masters can't do it for for contact S.E.A. wire
and cable.
Here are the links:
http://www.sea-wire.com/
http://www.wiremasters.net/
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/
Remember, when you buy in quantities, these folks will usually give
you a better price. It doesn't hurt to ASK! Some of you builders
that are NEAR each other should get together and make a bulk buy and
then distribute the materials yourselves. Remember, cheap prices are
nice!
Take care and keep pounding those rivets! :)
Dave Talley
San Antonio, TX
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Thanks Jesse.
Rob.
On Sep 12, 2005, at 9:44 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> No, we didn't have the engine on. It would be pretty hard to work on
> that
> with the engine on. The suggestion of climbing on the engine mount and
> pushing against the ceiling would probably work as well, and it would
> certainly be better for pictures for the builder's log. Either way, it
> should work. It does take a lot of pressure to compress them, which
> is the
> way you want it.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2005 7:31 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Thanks for the reply. I will try it. Did you have the engine on the
> mount at the time you lifted the tail?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:54 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>
>> We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary
>> leverage to
>> compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse@itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> W: 352-465-4545
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 11:18 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I
>> am
>> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
>> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
>> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>>
>> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
>> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>>
>> Thanks. Ro.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to punch a
small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle (use the one with
a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air. This blows from clean
side of the filter back into the oil galley and magically your filter will be
practically empty when you spin it off.
RV-10 #446
Bruce Case
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
regards the oil filter; be careful how you make the hole in the filter. shavings/fragments
that fall inside can give false impression of an engine making metal.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to punch
a small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle (use the one
with a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air. This blows from clean
side of the filter back into the oil galley and magically your filter will be
practically empty when you spin it off.
RV-10 #446
Bruce Case
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Van's electrical kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'd like to get a couple of off-line emails from a couple of
builders who bought Van's electrical kit. If you got it,
can you shoot me a quick email? Thanks!
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Anyone giving consideration of providing 110AC outlets in the 10. My plan involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel. It will be internally fused at 20A a plug and will be connected to the hot side of the starter relay and controlled by its own off/on switch and ultimately the master switch. That way I can run the laptop /cell phone/handheld radio or just charge their batteries. I have a similar system as an after thought in the Glastar and allows back up use for www.myairplane.com DVDs of enroute/IAPs and VFR sectionals without fear of battery failure. Of course the destination and alternates I print and carry in paper.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to punch
a small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle (use the one
with a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air. This blows from clean
side of the filter back into the oil galley and magically your filter will be
practically empty when you spin it off.
RV-10 #446
Bruce Case
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Bruce,
is there not a chance, that if you do that, that also all the filtered
out particles are blown back into the engine again?
br Werner
Bruce Case wrote:
>
> The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to
> punch a small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle
> (use the one with a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air.
> This blows from clean side of the filter back into the oil galley and
> magically your filter will be practically empty when you spin it off.
>
> RV-10 #446
>
> Bruce Case
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
The outside wall of the oil filter is adjacent to the filtered or clean oil, blowing
back from this location only pushes clean oil back into the engine. Use
a sharp awl to pierce the filter and you will end up with a clean hole with no
fragments. This technique works well on any tight engine compartment which
is usually the case for any 6 cylinder engine.
Bruce Case
RV-10, #446
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is
there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned?
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Subject: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
The outside wall of the oil filter is adjacent to the filtered or clean
oil, blowing back from this location only pushes clean oil back into the
engine. Use a sharp awl to pierce the filter and you will end up with a
clean hole with no fragments. This technique works well on any tight
engine compartment which is usually the case for any 6 cylinder engine.
Bruce Case
RV-10, #446
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I briefly considered remote mount filters. I had one on my
Sundowner and it was great for doing changes. You can unscrew
it and put a rag under the mount and basically not get a drop
of oil anywhere. I still may end up getting one, after the
plane is built, but I wanted to see the horizontal mount first
and see how tight it is after all the hoses are installed.
The only limitation I see with the -10 is that the upper
fuselage tips forward, and that may be about the only
real open area to install it. So if you went that route,
you might have to build a small wedge if you wanted it to
mount completely vertically...and if you didnt', it would
probably spill much easier.
I intend to look closer at this after I've got the plane
flying, but not slow down the build for it now unless
someone else tries it first and has easy success.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation is
> there a reason that remote oil filter setups arent mentioned?
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Case
> *Sent:* Monday, September 12, 2005 2:54 PM
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
>
>
>
> The outside wall of the oil filter is adjacent to the filtered or clean
> oil, blowing back from this location only pushes clean oil back into the
> engine. Use a sharp awl to pierce the filter and you will end up with a
> clean hole with no fragments. This technique works well on any tight
> engine compartment which is usually the case for any 6 cylinder engine.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bruce Case
>
> RV-10, #446
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation is there
> a reason that remote oil filter setups arent mentioned?
The "down sides" seem to include:
- more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
- more weight
- more up front expense
- more recurring expense (hoses)
- one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt in
the oil cooling department.
FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces the
least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: trimtab trailing edges |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I have been told by Don Forrest, #40114, that Van's does not endorse
the AEX method. You would indeed have to take the additional weight
into account when balancing your elevators, and its effect on the
flutter margin is unknown. As always, you must do your own risk
analysis and your mileage may vary.
PJ
#40032
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method
> (no Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I
> like the idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I
> wonder if the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could
> be a concern ? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well?
> Before I call Vans and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's
> opinion on this concern. Thanks
> Chris Hukill
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
I have thought about making a 2006 calendar (RV-10 Style!)
Several questions:
(1) I would need to get some great pictures for use on the Calendar. These would
need to be high resolution digital if at all possible. I would also need to
have the photographers permision to use them on the calendar and a small paragraph
about the picture.
(2) Anyone care to list any important dates they would like to see highlighted
on the Calendar (First Flight Anniversaries, Holidays, etc.)
(3) Distribution? - PDF (Personal use only), Printed - Not stapled for wall hanging,
Printed / Stapled.
Comments?
Jim Combs
#40192, N312F - Fuselage
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
It would probably be cheaper and much more efficient to just get a universal adapter like the iGo to run your various items. Doesn't make much sense to go from DC to AC and back to DC. Those inverters weigh a fair amount and put out a ton of heat. The iGo I have will run my laptop and charge my cell at the same time. It works on AC or DC and even in most airliners. Check it out at: <http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku10346441&loc101&hdwt0&sp1>. Radio shack is also selling these now and they have tips to charge almost anything. For the lower voltage stuff a DC-DC converter is even easier and can also be picked up from Radio Shack with interchangeable tips.
If you really run into a need for something AC you can always grab an inverter
for that trip. I keep a small one in my truck for those weird circumstances
and just plug it into my cigarette lighter.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: AC power
Anyone giving consideration of providing 110AC outlets in the 10. My plan involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel. It will be internally fused at 20A a plug and will be connected to the hot side of the starter relay and controlled by its own off/on switch and ultimately the master switch. That way I can run the laptop /cell phone/handheld radio or just charge their batteries. I have a similar system as an after thought in the Glastar and allows back up use for www.myairplane.com DVDs of enroute/IAPs and VFR sectionals without fear of battery failure. Of course the destination and alternates I print and carry in paper.
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks
and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once
in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how
if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling
point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive
in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're
running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off
anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the
opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight
of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for
the mount, and then a bit of hose.
Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right.
In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end
up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad
and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends
on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with
the setup, but of course I would be, since before that
add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only
had the screen.
I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad
in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses
Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan.
A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their
sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we
have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied
quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation is
>> there a reason that remote oil filter setups arent mentioned?
>
>
> The "down sides" seem to include:
>
> - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
> - more weight
> - more up front expense
> - more recurring expense (hoses)
> - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
>
> That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
> argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt
> in the oil cooling department.
>
> FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
> horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces
> the least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: David Talley <RV10@satx.rr.com>
Dan has several great points. One thing about the reoccurring
expenses; one can purchase teflon LIFE-TIME hoses. Check with John
at Airwolf. They're not cheap, but a one time buy is good. Also,
you can take them off every five years or so (yes, five years) and
have them re-certified if you don't trust them.
Take care,
David Talley
San Antonio, TX
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
When I looked at them the B&C appeared to be the obvious choice because of no oil
hoses of potential areas for leaks.
Here are some pictures of this type. If you do get it you also need to get the
peice to extend it. They offer three sizes and I think it was the middle size
but I will check if you are interested.
-Scott
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks
and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once
in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how
if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling
point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive
in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're
running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off
anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the
opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight
of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for
the mount, and then a bit of hose.
Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right.
In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end
up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad
and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends
on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with
the setup, but of course I would be, since before that
add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only
had the screen.
I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad
in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses
Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan.
A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their
sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we
have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied
quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is
>> there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned?
>
>
> The "down sides" seem to include:
>
> - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
> - more weight
> - more up front expense
> - more recurring expense (hoses)
> - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
>
> That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
> argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt
> in the oil cooling department.
>
> FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
> horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces
> the least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
I recently purchased the Oil filter adapter & spacer from
_http://www.long-ez.com/_ (http://www.long-ez.com/) . We have not flown that airplane yet so
can not make user commenrts. At the time it was the best deal I could find and
much cheaper than all the others @ $258. Good luck.
Check it out.
Doug Preston
RV7
N731RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
Scott:
Yes, please check on which B&C extender is needed . . .
Thanks,
TDT
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
When I looked at them the B&C appeared to be the obvious choice because of no oil
hoses of potential areas for leaks.
Here are some pictures of this type. If you do get it you also need to get the
peice to extend it. They offer three sizes and I think it was the middle size
but I will check if you are interested.
-Scott
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks
and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once
in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how
if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling
point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive
in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're
running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off
anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the
opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight
of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for
the mount, and then a bit of hose.
Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right.
In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end
up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad
and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends
on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with
the setup, but of course I would be, since before that
add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only
had the screen.
I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad
in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses
Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan.
A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their
sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we
have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied
quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is
>> there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned?
>
>
> The "down sides" seem to include:
>
> - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
> - more weight
> - more up front expense
> - more recurring expense (hoses)
> - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
>
> That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
> argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt
> in the oil cooling department.
>
> FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
> horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces
> the least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I bought my remote filter mount from a car parts place (forgot which
one!) and that added one hose. I put it in series with my oil cooler on
the Pitts. Works like a champ. It was relatively cheap .... just a
cast aluminum piece .... but it's no ADC filter either. Depending on
what I get for an engine, the -10 may have the same thing.
As for the quick drain .... yep, my Grumman and Traumahawk have one, but
the Pitts just has an AN cap. The downside is that they may leak after
a while ..... but a new O-ring solves that problem. They're no
different than a fuel quick drain in that respect.
Linn
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks
> and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once
> in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how
> if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling
> point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive
> in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're
> running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off
> anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the
> opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight
> of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for
> the mount, and then a bit of hose.
> Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right.
> In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end
> up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad
> and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends
> on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with
> the setup, but of course I would be, since before that
> add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only
> had the screen.
>
> I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad
> in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses
> Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan.
>
>
> A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their
> sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we
> have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied
> quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation is
>>> there a reason that remote oil filter setups arent mentioned?
>>
>>
>>
>> The "down sides" seem to include:
>>
>> - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
>> - more weight
>> - more up front expense
>> - more recurring expense (hoses)
>> - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
>>
>> That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one
>> could argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it
>> won't hurt in the oil cooling department.
>>
>> FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my
>> "standard" horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free,
>> and introduces the least amount of complexity and points of failure
>> into the system.
>>
>> )_( Dan
>> RV-7 N714D
>> http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient (and
out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both doors that
could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
builder, so would be nice to know now.
Thanks - John #40404
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
>My plan involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel
You're kidding right? Even mid sized turbines don't have inverters anymore. All
those devices you mention ultimately use DC power. Why introduce the noise
of AC just to convert it back to DC? Wouldn't you be better off looking into
DC to DC converters of the appropriate voltages? Just trying to understand why.
William Curtis
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | trimtab trailing edges |
That is what I did on mine, looks 10x better than the folded edge, in my
opinion of course.... Van's will tell you not to do it, like they do
with everything that is not exactly as on the plans..... They did not
test their airplane in this fashion so they will not give you any advice
except not to do it.
I did mine this way, I will be sure the control surfaces are balances
and I will check it for flutter during the first 40 hours. In the
slight chance it won't work, it is very easy to swap out the trim
tabs....
P.S. - a lot of the -9 guys did it too, and I have never heard of any
issues. Maybe you want to cross post on the -9 list and ask them
specifically.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges
I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no
Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the
idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if
the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern
? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans
and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's opinion on this
concern. Thanks
Chris Hukill
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuselage building question |
On page 29-12 on the left inset it shows the F-1042-EL to be riveted to
the F-1040-L. The picture does not show this, but there are some rivets
for some nut plates and one of the rivets is shadowed by the F-1040-EL.
I was hoping to install the nut plates prior to the riveting the
F=1-42-EL to the F-1040-L, but I can not seem to find what size nut
plates and what they are used for? I assume there is a cover plate or
something that goes over this, but could not find anything in the plans.
I looked up on some builders web sites without much luck either.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuse wiring question |
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the
IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center
area, down the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting
my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area
that would need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I believe it would be easy to put the microswitch just on the front
side of the vertical doorpost on the front of the door, and have it
click up when the door latch pin is extended all the way in
to the locked position. Then you'd have a warning if the door wasn't
latched tight.
In fact, I was thinking that instead of adding a cabin lock
that would cause a chelton thief to wreck my entire plane
to try to get to it, I'd just install a big loud a$$ horn
that would go off if someone opened the door without
deactivating it. You could then either use a remote key
FOB or an externally mounted keyed security electrical switch.
If it was loud and obnoxious enough, it should work as
well as a lock in preventing the theft.
Tim
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient
> (and out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both
> doors that could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
>
> Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
> builder, so would be nice to know now.
>
> Thanks - John #40404
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuse wiring question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Here's Randy's original photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
and here's mine:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html
The wings actually have a spot listed on the plans, on that
side panel under the door.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the
> IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center
> area, down the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting
> my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area
> that would need conduit.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
OK, the adapters that B&C offer are a .75", 1.4", and 2.5". You will need the
1.4" adapter for the IO-540 D4A5. The adapter is $395 (or .395 APU's (Air Plane
Units)) and the spacer is $50.
It seems like is should be cheaper but it is a very nicely machined peice and you
don't have to worry about leaky fittings.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
Scott:
Yes, please check on which B&C extender is needed . . .
Thanks,
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
When I looked at them the B&C appeared to be the obvious choice because of no oil
hoses of potential areas for leaks.
Here are some pictures of this type. If you do get it you also need to get the
peice to extend it. They offer three sizes and I think it was the middle size
but I will check if you are interested.
-Scott
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks
and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once
in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how
if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling
point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive
in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're
running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off
anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the
opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight
of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for
the mount, and then a bit of hose.
Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right.
In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end
up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad
and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends
on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with
the setup, but of course I would be, since before that
add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only
had the screen.
I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad
in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses
Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan.
A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their
sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we
have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied
quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is
>> there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned?
>
>
> The "down sides" seem to include:
>
> - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
> - more weight
> - more up front expense
> - more recurring expense (hoses)
> - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
>
> That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
> argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt
> in the oil cooling department.
>
> FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
> horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces
> the least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuse wiring question |
I am running mine down the sides. I did put in wiring conduit under the rear baggage
compartment.
I didn't want to run anything down the middle that might jam the controls.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP) to
the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area, down the
sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors riveted down
but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuselage building question |
They are for a cover. They nutplates are K1000-08. The screws are called out
on page 35-7 515-8R8 and 509-8R*. But you are right, I have no idea where it
says to put those on. I faintly remember having the same problem.
Anyway, I see no problem in putting them on right now and you definately have to
do it before the 1040-EL.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage building question
On page 29-12 on the left inset it shows the F-1042-EL to be riveted to the F-1040-L.
The picture does not show this, but there are some rivets for some nut
plates and one of the rivets is shadowed by the F-1040-EL. I was hoping to install
the nut plates prior to the riveting the F1-42-EL to the F-1040-L, but
I can not seem to find what size nut plates and what they are used for? I assume
there is a cover plate or something that goes over this, but could not find
anything in the plans. I looked up on some builders web sites without much
luck either.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuse wiring question |
MessageI am running all down the side panels so that they can be accessed later
if necessary. DC and high current on the left side and digital signals down the
right,
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Kraus
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 8:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP)
to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area, down
the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors riveted
down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage building question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I found this out the hard way. My QB fuse didn't come with the
nutplates installed, so I ended up having to grind away
some of the F-1042-EL to get to it to put in that shadowed
rivet you talk about. It's for the wiring cover plate on that
corner. You should be able to use K1000-8 nutplates. I think
they might have been shorted in the QB fuse kit if I remember
right. You may have them in the slow build kit though.
Anyway, they really should have been done on the QB during
the step you're at, because it's a pain later for that one
rivet. Mine will never look perfect...yours has a chance
to.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> On page 29-12 on the left inset it shows the F-1042-EL to be riveted to
> the F-1040-L. The picture does not show this, but there are some rivets
> for some nut plates and one of the rivets is shadowed by the F-1040-EL.
> I was hoping to install the nut plates prior to the riveting the
> F=1-42-EL to the F-1040-L, but I can not seem to find what size nut
> plates and what they are used for? I assume there is a cover plate or
> something that goes over this, but could not find anything in the
> plans. I looked up on some builders web sites without much luck either.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> -Mike
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|