Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:48 AM - Re: Fuse wiring question (Rob Kermanj)
2. 03:33 AM - I have a question Scott. (Rob Kermanj)
3. 03:57 AM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
4. 04:53 AM - Re: Re: trimtab trailing edges ()
5. 08:19 AM - Re: I have a question Scott. (Mark Ritter)
6. 08:20 AM - Re: Fuse wiring question (Jesse Saint)
7. 08:30 AM - Quick-Drain (Jesse Saint)
8. 08:32 AM - Re: AC power (Jesse Saint)
9. 09:23 AM - Re: I have a question Scott. (Rob Kermanj)
10. 12:33 PM - RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (Scott Schmidt)
11. 01:01 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (Tim Olson)
12. 01:10 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
13. 02:18 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
14. 02:34 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (RobHickman@aol.com)
15. 02:52 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (James Hein)
16. 06:54 PM - Elevator mismatch (Mark Chamberlain)
17. 08:26 PM - Re: CABIN DOORS (GenGrumpy@AOL.COM)
18. 10:34 PM - Re: Elevator mismatch (Darton Steve)
19. 10:34 PM - Re: Elevator mismatch (Deems Davis)
20. 10:34 PM - Re: Elevator mismatch (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse wiring question |
I have run all my wiring down the sides. It can get crowded but seem
to have shorter runs. I had to enlarge the holes in the rear spar and
the cone bulkhead to fit a #2 Cable, a VOR antenna and a Marker Beacon
antenna.
On Sep 12, 2005, at 11:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind
> the IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10?=A0 Down through the
> center area, down the sides, or under the floors?=A0 I am interested in
> getting my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal
> off any area that would need conduit.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | I have a question Scott. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Hello scott. I am working on the door latches and have found the pins
to be way too long. I either have to cut the pins or provide a hole
for the rack in the opposite wall of the latch pocket. I looked at your
pictures and noticed that your pins are fully retracted with the latch
in a vertical position. This looks correct to me. I think that I can
only do this by providing four holes for the racks in each latch pocket
walls. What do you think?
Thanks, Rob.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
Check out _http://www.long-ez.com/_ (http://www.long-ez.com/) . I paid $258
for adaptor & spacer for O-360.
Doug Preston
BHM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: trimtab trailing edges |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Hi,what is a angle iron combination-ground rivet squeezer
sorry for the question ,Hugo
>
> From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> Date: 2005/09/12 Mon PM 10:59:09 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges
>
> That is what I did on mine, looks 10x better than the folded edge, in my
> opinion of course.... Van's will tell you not to do it, like they do
> with everything that is not exactly as on the plans..... They did not
> test their airplane in this fashion so they will not give you any advice
> except not to do it.
>
> I did mine this way, I will be sure the control surfaces are balances
> and I will check it for flutter during the first 40 hours. In the
> slight chance it won't work, it is very easy to swap out the trim
> tabs....
>
> P.S. - a lot of the -9 guys did it too, and I have never heard of any
> issues. Maybe you want to cross post on the -9 list and ask them
> specifically.
>
> -Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:50 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges
>
>
> I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no
> Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the
> idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if
> the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern
> ? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans
> and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's opinion on this
> concern. Thanks
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | I have a question Scott. |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Fuse wiring question |
We wired the entire plane after it was built, so all of the closed off areas
were already closed off. We ran CPVC conduit in the wings to push wires
through, but everything in the fuse we did with snap bushings. We made the
right side panel in the baggage compartment removable (nutplates instead of
rivets) and ran all of the wires down that side. We didn't run anything in
the center tunnel or under the seat or baggage floors. If you are
wondering, it wouldn't hurt to put some conduit in there just in case you
decide to wire through there.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP)
to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area,
down the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors
riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would
need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We did install a quick-drain that Van's sells. The quick-drain is safety
wired, but only the lug is, not the quick-drain valve. The bottom cowling
is a ton of work to take off and put back on (at least with the clearance
that we have), so we wanted to be able to change the oil without taking it
off. Fortunately, the way this QD works is that you have to push it up to
release the oil (maybe all of them work that way, but this is the only one I
have used), so unless it falls up, you should be OK. If both O-rings have
problems, then it could start to leak, but it wouldn't be a fast leak and
you would notice it when checking the oil on preflight if it seemed to be
using more oil than normal.
Just remember on the horizontal filter installation that it is impossible to
get a torque wrench on the filter.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks
and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once
in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how
if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling
point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive
in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're
running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off
anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the
opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight
of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for
the mount, and then a bit of hose.
Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right.
In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end
up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad
and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends
on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with
the setup, but of course I would be, since before that
add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only
had the screen.
I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad
in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses
Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan.
A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their
sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we
have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied
quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is
>> there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned?
>
>
> The "down sides" seem to include:
>
> - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
> - more weight
> - more up front expense
> - more recurring expense (hoses)
> - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
>
> That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
> argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt
> in the oil cooling department.
>
> FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
> horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces
> the least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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I agree with this. Stick with DC wherever possible. If you need AC for
something, take your portable inverter with you (make sure you wire in a
couple of Cigarette Power Jacks).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AC power
It would probably be cheaper and much more efficient to just get a
universal adapter like the iGo to run your various items. Doesn't make much
sense to go from DC to AC and back to DC. Those inverters weigh a fair
amount and put out a ton of heat. The iGo I have will run my laptop and
charge my cell at the same time. It works on AC or DC and even in most
airliners. Check it out at:
<http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=10346441
<http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=10346441&loc=101&hdwt=0&sp=1>
&loc=101&hdwt=0&sp=1>. Radio shack is also selling these now and they have
tips to charge almost anything. For the lower voltage stuff a DC-DC
converter is even easier and can also be picked up from Radio Shack with
interchangeable tips.
If you really run into a need for something AC you can always grab an
inverter for that trip. I keep a small one in my truck for those weird
circumstances and just plug it into my cigarette lighter.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: AC power
Anyone giving consideration of providing 110AC outlets in the 10. My plan
involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel. It
will be internally fused at 20A a plug and will be connected to the hot side
of the starter relay and controlled by its own off/on switch and ultimately
the master switch. That way I can run the laptop /cell phone/handheld radio
or just charge their batteries. I have a similar system as an after thought
in the Glastar and allows back up use for www.myairplane.com DVDs of
enroute/IAPs and VFR sectionals without fear of battery failure. Of course
the destination and alternates I print and carry in paper.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: I have a question Scott. |
Thanks Scott.
Rob.
do not archive
On Sep 13, 2005, at 11:18 AM, Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> Rob,
>
> I cut the hole in the opposite wall=A0 for the rack and the door latch
> works find.=A0 Couldn't figure any other way to make it work.=A0
>
>> From:=A0=A0Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>> Reply-To:=A0=A0rv10-list@matronics.com
>> To:=A0=A0rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject:=A0=A0RV10-List: I have a question Scott.
>> Date:=A0=A0Tue, 13 Sep 2005 06:30:15 -0400
>> >--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>> >
>> >Hello scott.=A0=A0I am working on the door latches and have found the
>> >pins to be way too long.=A0=A0I either have to cut the pins or provide a
>> >hole for the rack in the opposite wall of the latch pocket. I looked
>> >at your pictures and noticed that your pins are fully retracted with
>> >the latch in a vertical position.=A0=A0This looks correct to me.=A0=A0I
>> >think that I can only do this by providing four holes for the racks
Features
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I
placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great
and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and
reviewed the article that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different
props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended
Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is
seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isn't a huge speed
difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but
when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch
to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really
didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop
when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great.
So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you.
My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I
really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Scott,
Glad to hear you finally committed. ;) That's a tough
question (the aluminum spinner). I think you might have
to buy the spinner and backing plate. Aircraft Spruce
has a few different ones:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06178.pdf
They may be able to help you select a comparable spinner.
I did buy a new spinner at one time for my Beech. Believe
it or not, the sticker inside the prop, even after ordering
it from Raytheon, had a *Cessna* tag and number on it. It
may be that if you can't find a suitable experimental spinner
from ACS or somewhere, you could buy a certified unit from
Cessna for a reasonable cost...perhaps for a 182. I think
I paid about $500 for the Raytheon one, but I bet Cessnas
price on that part would have been cheaper.
One thing I don't know is how the shape can change things.
I know that on some certified planes, you need to use the
supplied spinner type. They're supposedly shaped in a
manner compatible with the intake air and cooling. I don't
know if it's just diameter or actual shape. I can't imagine
it making that much difference if the diameter is the same,
but I know almost nothing about it.
The one thing I can tell you about polished aluminum spinners
is this though: It takes work to keep it shiny and nice.
I tried doing the original polish by hand, but that would
take FOREVER. You'll need to either use a power buffer
or take it some place to buff it out. Then, to maintain the
shine, you'll need to buff it often. Bugs always
looked bad, and then when I got spray wax and things like
that on it (from spraying the cowling) it looked pretty
ugly and you needed to do a full polish again. In the case
of that plane, if I could have done it all over again, I
would have just gone with paint. But, if you're chroming
your step, it sounds like you're planning for the big
polishing adventure anyway.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I
> placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great
> and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and
> reviewed the article that Vans wrote a few years ago on the different
> props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended
> Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is
> seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isnt a huge speed
> difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but
> when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch
> to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really
> didnt want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop
> when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great.
>
> So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you.
>
>
>
> My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I
> really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match.
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
I saw a mention somewhere of a aircraft paint shop that had capabilities to get
a real "chrome" finish on just about any surface. Send 'em your spinner . .
.
I'll see if I can find that reference
TDT
40025
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Scott,
Glad to hear you finally committed. ;) That's a tough
question (the aluminum spinner). I think you might have
to buy the spinner and backing plate. Aircraft Spruce
has a few different ones:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06178.pdf
They may be able to help you select a comparable spinner.
I did buy a new spinner at one time for my Beech. Believe
it or not, the sticker inside the prop, even after ordering
it from Raytheon, had a *Cessna* tag and number on it. It
may be that if you can't find a suitable experimental spinner
from ACS or somewhere, you could buy a certified unit from
Cessna for a reasonable cost...perhaps for a 182. I think
I paid about $500 for the Raytheon one, but I bet Cessnas
price on that part would have been cheaper.
One thing I don't know is how the shape can change things.
I know that on some certified planes, you need to use the
supplied spinner type. They're supposedly shaped in a
manner compatible with the intake air and cooling. I don't
know if it's just diameter or actual shape. I can't imagine
it making that much difference if the diameter is the same,
but I know almost nothing about it.
The one thing I can tell you about polished aluminum spinners
is this though: It takes work to keep it shiny and nice.
I tried doing the original polish by hand, but that would
take FOREVER. You'll need to either use a power buffer
or take it some place to buff it out. Then, to maintain the
shine, you'll need to buff it often. Bugs always
looked bad, and then when I got spray wax and things like
that on it (from spraying the cowling) it looked pretty
ugly and you needed to do a full polish again. In the case
of that plane, if I could have done it all over again, I
would have just gone with paint. But, if you're chroming
your step, it sounds like you're planning for the big
polishing adventure anyway.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I
> placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great
> and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and
> reviewed the article that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different
> props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended
> Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is
> seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isn't a huge speed
> difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but
> when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch
> to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really
> didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop
> when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great.
>
> So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you.
>
>
> My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I
> really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match.
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
This company makes some seriously wicked paints: http://alsacorp.com/chrome.htm, including one that replicates chrome to a T. I especially think the MultiChrome would rock on a spinner. Check it out but watch out for sticker shock. You thought that some chromatic paints were expensive. I may incorporate some of their stranger paints for trim and will probably order their sample pack shortly before.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 tanks
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner
Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I placed
my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great and many people
think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and reviewed the article
that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different props and he found that the
Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was
200 mph. It sounds like Vic is seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It
isn't a huge speed difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered
the MT but when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can
switch to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really
didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop when
I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great.
So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you.
My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I really
want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
I was told by a local Valspar rep that they are going to introduce Crome and
Glow in the dark paint.
If you paint a RV-10 with glow in the dark paint do you need lights?
do not archive
Rob Hickman
RV-10 #204
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>If you paint a RV-10 with glow in the dark paint do you need lights?
Do UFOs need lights? I'd be more worried about the Air Force
interception.......
-Jim 40384, Tailcone done, now wondering where to store it......
RobHickman@aol.com wrote:
> I was told by a local Valspar rep that they are going to introduce
> Crome and Glow in the dark paint.
>
> If you paint a RV-10 with glow in the dark paint do you need lights?
>
> do not archive
>
> Rob Hickman
> RV-10 #204
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Elevator mismatch |
Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align with the other after hanging
them on the horizontal stabilizer. I understand that the horns might not align
( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the elevators themselves should be misaligned.
If I fair the elevator counterbalances to the horizontal on both sides
outboard and lay a straight edge across the trailing edge of both elevators,
there is about a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging slightly low.
I am perplexed!! I did not create the hinge points, It was all match holed construction
and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the skins. I dont know
how the left elevator seems to tuck low as it nears the inbd end. I did discover
that a slight pressure down on the right elev horn and slight up press on the
left nearly brings them into alignment, but this obviously adds a preload that
doesn't seem right. Any thoughts/ suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016)
Message 17
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Maybe I can make the switch do double duty.....
Can you take a picture of where how this would fit?
Thanks
In a message dated 9/12/2005 10:45:38 PM Central Standard Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I believe it would be easy to put the microswitch just on the front
side of the vertical doorpost on the front of the door, and have it
click up when the door latch pin is extended all the way in
to the locked position. Then you'd have a warning if the door wasn't
latched tight.
In fact, I was thinking that instead of adding a cabin lock
that would cause a chelton thief to wreck my entire plane
to try to get to it, I'd just install a big loud a$$ horn
that would go off if someone opened the door without
deactivating it. You could then either use a remote key
FOB or an externally mounted keyed security electrical switch.
If it was loud and obnoxious enough, it should work as
well as a lock in preventing the theft.
Tim
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient
> (and out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both
> doors that could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
>
> Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
> builder, so would be nice to know now.
>
> Thanks - John #40404
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator mismatch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Mark,
I had a small amount of difference in my elevators
also. I called Van's about it, their response was "if
it's less than 3/4" don't worry about it, just build
the airplane!" Soon after I was at Van's and eyeballed
their elevators very closely. They didn't match
perfectly either.
Steve
--- Mark Chamberlain <10flyer@verizon.net> wrote:
> Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align
> with the other after hanging them on the horizontal
> stabilizer. I understand that the horns might not
> align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the
> elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair
> the elevator counterbalances to the horizontal on
> both sides outboard and lay a straight edge across
> the trailing edge of both elevators, there is about
> a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging
> slightly low. I am perplexed!! I did not create the
> hinge points, It was all match holed construction
> and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the
> skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to
> tuck low as it nears the inbd end. I did discover
> that a slight pressure down on the right elev horn
> and slight up press on the left nearly brings them
> into alignment, but this obviously adds a preload
> that doesn't seem right. Any thoughts/ suggestions
> appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator mismatch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Mark Chamberlain wrote:
> Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align with the other
> after hanging them on the horizontal stabilizer. I understand that the
> horns might not align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the
> elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair the elevator
> counterbalances to the horizontal on both sides outboard and lay a
> straight edge across the trailing edge of both elevators, there is
> about a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging slightly low. I
> am perplexed!! I did not create the hinge points, It was all match
> holed construction and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the
> skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to tuck low as it nears
> the inbd end. I did discover that a slight pressure down on the right
> elev horn and slight up press on the left nearly brings them into
> alignment, but this obviously adds a preload that doesn't seem right.
> Any thoughts/ suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016)
I may not be following you, but as i recall, the plans say to allign the
elevator trailing edges with the HS and then to clamp the horns and
drill, as you mention 9and as I also found in my case0 the horns don't
align, but the whole process is designed to ensure that the trailing
edges are aligned. What am I missing?
Deems Davis # 406
waiting on wings to ship
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator mismatch |
DNA: do not archive
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