---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 09/13/05: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:48 AM - Re: Fuse wiring question (Rob Kermanj) 2. 03:33 AM - I have a question Scott. (Rob Kermanj) 3. 03:57 AM - Re: Oil FIlter Adapter (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com) 4. 04:53 AM - Re: Re: trimtab trailing edges () 5. 08:19 AM - Re: I have a question Scott. (Mark Ritter) 6. 08:20 AM - Re: Fuse wiring question (Jesse Saint) 7. 08:30 AM - Quick-Drain (Jesse Saint) 8. 08:32 AM - Re: AC power (Jesse Saint) 9. 09:23 AM - Re: I have a question Scott. (Rob Kermanj) 10. 12:33 PM - RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (Scott Schmidt) 11. 01:01 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (Tim Olson) 12. 01:10 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (Tim Dawson-Townsend) 13. 02:18 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 14. 02:34 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (RobHickman@aol.com) 15. 02:52 PM - Re: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner (James Hein) 16. 06:54 PM - Elevator mismatch (Mark Chamberlain) 17. 08:26 PM - Re: CABIN DOORS (GenGrumpy@AOL.COM) 18. 10:34 PM - Re: Elevator mismatch (Darton Steve) 19. 10:34 PM - Re: Elevator mismatch (Deems Davis) 20. 10:34 PM - Re: Elevator mismatch (Rick) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:48:33 AM PST US From: Rob Kermanj Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question I have run all my wiring down the sides. It can get crowded but seem to have shorter runs. I had to enlarge the holes in the rear spar and the cone bulkhead to fit a #2 Cable, a VOR antenna and a Marker Beacon antenna. On Sep 12, 2005, at 11:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote: > Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind > the IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10?=A0 Down through the > center area, down the sides, or under the floors?=A0 I am interested in > getting my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal > off any area that would need conduit. > > Thanks > -Mike > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:33:13 AM PST US From: Rob Kermanj Subject: RV10-List: I have a question Scott. --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj Hello scott. I am working on the door latches and have found the pins to be way too long. I either have to cut the pins or provide a hole for the rack in the opposite wall of the latch pocket. I looked at your pictures and noticed that your pins are fully retracted with the latch in a vertical position. This looks correct to me. I think that I can only do this by providing four holes for the racks in each latch pocket walls. What do you think? Thanks, Rob. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:57:22 AM PST US From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter Check out _http://www.long-ez.com/_ (http://www.long-ez.com/) . I paid $258 for adaptor & spacer for O-360. Doug Preston BHM DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:53:39 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges --> RV10-List message posted by: Hi,what is a angle iron combination-ground rivet squeezer sorry for the question ,Hugo > > From: "Mike Kraus" > Date: 2005/09/12 Mon PM 10:59:09 EDT > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges > > That is what I did on mine, looks 10x better than the folded edge, in my > opinion of course.... Van's will tell you not to do it, like they do > with everything that is not exactly as on the plans..... They did not > test their airplane in this fashion so they will not give you any advice > except not to do it. > > I did mine this way, I will be sure the control surfaces are balances > and I will check it for flutter during the first 40 hours. In the > slight chance it won't work, it is very easy to swap out the trim > tabs.... > > P.S. - a lot of the -9 guys did it too, and I have never heard of any > issues. Maybe you want to cross post on the -9 list and ask them > specifically. > > -Mike > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill > Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:50 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges > > > I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no > Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the > idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if > the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern > ? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans > and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's opinion on this > concern. Thanks > Chris Hukill > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:19:12 AM PST US From: "Mark Ritter" Subject: RE: RV10-List: I have a question Scott. DNA: do not archive Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section --- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:20:40 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question We wired the entire plane after it was built, so all of the closed off areas were already closed off. We ran CPVC conduit in the wings to push wires through, but everything in the fuse we did with snap bushings. We made the right side panel in the baggage compartment removable (nutplates instead of rivets) and ran all of the wires down that side. We didn't run anything in the center tunnel or under the seat or baggage floors. If you are wondering, it wouldn't hurt to put some conduit in there just in case you decide to wire through there. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area, down the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would need conduit. Thanks -Mike ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:30:20 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RV10-List: Quick-Drain --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" We did install a quick-drain that Van's sells. The quick-drain is safety wired, but only the lug is, not the quick-drain valve. The bottom cowling is a ton of work to take off and put back on (at least with the clearance that we have), so we wanted to be able to change the oil without taking it off. Fortunately, the way this QD works is that you have to push it up to release the oil (maybe all of them work that way, but this is the only one I have used), so unless it falls up, you should be OK. If both O-rings have problems, then it could start to leak, but it wouldn't be a fast leak and you would notice it when checking the oil on preflight if it seemed to be using more oil than normal. Just remember on the horizontal filter installation that it is impossible to get a torque wrench on the filter. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Dan is right that there are more potential places for leaks and failures. I installed the ADC system. It never once in about 500 or more hours had an issue, but I can see how if it wasn't installed properly that it could. His cooling point is one I forgot to mention. I looked at it as a positive in that you get a few ounces more oil capacity (since you're running the sump short by a couple quarts due to blow-off anyway), and being remotely mounted it perhaps gives the opportunity for a bit more cooling of the oil. The weight of the system was pretty negligible....perhaps a pound for the mount, and then a bit of hose. Costs were around $425 or so if I remember right. In exchange for giving up firewall real estate, you end up getting some back in easier access to your accessory pad and other areas on the back of the engine. It all depends on your install. Overall, I was extremely happy with the setup, but of course I would be, since before that add-on, the engine didn't even use a spin-on...it only had the screen. I think the horizontal standard filter may not be too bad in changing on the -10, as long as the builder either uses Dan's drain method, or builds there own little drain pan. A follow-up question: Is anyone putting quick drains on their sump? I always found it humorous that in aircraft engines we have to safety wire everything, except you can put a non-safetied quick-drain on the engine oil....very strange to me.\ Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Dan Checkoway wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is >> there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned? > > > The "down sides" seem to include: > > - more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections) > - more weight > - more up front expense > - more recurring expense (hoses) > - one more thing consuming firewall "real estate" > > That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could > argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt > in the oil cooling department. > > FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard" > horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces > the least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:32:43 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: AC power I agree with this. Stick with DC wherever possible. If you need AC for something, take your portable inverter with you (make sure you wire in a couple of Cigarette Power Jacks). Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV10-List: AC power It would probably be cheaper and much more efficient to just get a universal adapter like the iGo to run your various items. Doesn't make much sense to go from DC to AC and back to DC. Those inverters weigh a fair amount and put out a ton of heat. The iGo I have will run my laptop and charge my cell at the same time. It works on AC or DC and even in most airliners. Check it out at: &loc=101&hdwt=0&sp=1>. Radio shack is also selling these now and they have tips to charge almost anything. For the lower voltage stuff a DC-DC converter is even easier and can also be picked up from Radio Shack with interchangeable tips. If you really run into a need for something AC you can always grab an inverter for that trip. I keep a small one in my truck for those weird circumstances and just plug it into my cigarette lighter. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Tanks do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Subject: RV10-List: AC power Anyone giving consideration of providing 110AC outlets in the 10. My plan involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel. It will be internally fused at 20A a plug and will be connected to the hot side of the starter relay and controlled by its own off/on switch and ultimately the master switch. That way I can run the laptop /cell phone/handheld radio or just charge their batteries. I have a similar system as an after thought in the Glastar and allows back up use for www.myairplane.com DVDs of enroute/IAPs and VFR sectionals without fear of battery failure. Of course the destination and alternates I print and carry in paper. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:23:54 AM PST US From: Rob Kermanj Subject: Re: RV10-List: I have a question Scott. Thanks Scott. Rob. do not archive On Sep 13, 2005, at 11:18 AM, Mark Ritter wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter" > > Rob, > > I cut the hole in the opposite wall=A0 for the rack and the door latch > works find.=A0 Couldn't figure any other way to make it work.=A0 > >> From:=A0=A0Rob Kermanj >> Reply-To:=A0=A0rv10-list@matronics.com >> To:=A0=A0rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject:=A0=A0RV10-List: I have a question Scott. >> Date:=A0=A0Tue, 13 Sep 2005 06:30:15 -0400 >> >--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj >> > >> >Hello scott.=A0=A0I am working on the door latches and have found the >> >pins to be way too long.=A0=A0I either have to cut the pins or provide a >> >hole for the rack in the opposite wall of the latch pocket. I looked >> >at your pictures and noticed that your pins are fully retracted with >> >the latch in a vertical position.=A0=A0This looks correct to me.=A0=A0I >> >think that I can only do this by providing four holes for the racks Features ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:33:08 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner From: "Scott Schmidt" Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and reviewed the article that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isn't a huge speed difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great. So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you. My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match. Scott Schmidt sschmidt@ussynthetic.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:01:16 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Scott, Glad to hear you finally committed. ;) That's a tough question (the aluminum spinner). I think you might have to buy the spinner and backing plate. Aircraft Spruce has a few different ones: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06178.pdf They may be able to help you select a comparable spinner. I did buy a new spinner at one time for my Beech. Believe it or not, the sticker inside the prop, even after ordering it from Raytheon, had a *Cessna* tag and number on it. It may be that if you can't find a suitable experimental spinner from ACS or somewhere, you could buy a certified unit from Cessna for a reasonable cost...perhaps for a 182. I think I paid about $500 for the Raytheon one, but I bet Cessnas price on that part would have been cheaper. One thing I don't know is how the shape can change things. I know that on some certified planes, you need to use the supplied spinner type. They're supposedly shaped in a manner compatible with the intake air and cooling. I don't know if it's just diameter or actual shape. I can't imagine it making that much difference if the diameter is the same, but I know almost nothing about it. The one thing I can tell you about polished aluminum spinners is this though: It takes work to keep it shiny and nice. I tried doing the original polish by hand, but that would take FOREVER. You'll need to either use a power buffer or take it some place to buff it out. Then, to maintain the shine, you'll need to buff it often. Bugs always looked bad, and then when I got spray wax and things like that on it (from spraying the cowling) it looked pretty ugly and you needed to do a full polish again. In the case of that plane, if I could have done it all over again, I would have just gone with paint. But, if you're chroming your step, it sounds like you're planning for the big polishing adventure anyway. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Scott Schmidt wrote: > Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I > placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great > and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and > reviewed the article that Vans wrote a few years ago on the different > props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended > Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is > seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isnt a huge speed > difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but > when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch > to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really > didnt want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop > when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great. > > So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you. > > > > My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I > really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match. > > > > Scott Schmidt > > sschmidt@ussynthetic.com > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:10:19 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" I saw a mention somewhere of a aircraft paint shop that had capabilities to get a real "chrome" finish on just about any surface. Send 'em your spinner . . .. I'll see if I can find that reference TDT 40025 Do not archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Scott, Glad to hear you finally committed. ;) That's a tough question (the aluminum spinner). I think you might have to buy the spinner and backing plate. Aircraft Spruce has a few different ones: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06178.pdf They may be able to help you select a comparable spinner. I did buy a new spinner at one time for my Beech. Believe it or not, the sticker inside the prop, even after ordering it from Raytheon, had a *Cessna* tag and number on it. It may be that if you can't find a suitable experimental spinner from ACS or somewhere, you could buy a certified unit from Cessna for a reasonable cost...perhaps for a 182. I think I paid about $500 for the Raytheon one, but I bet Cessnas price on that part would have been cheaper. One thing I don't know is how the shape can change things. I know that on some certified planes, you need to use the supplied spinner type. They're supposedly shaped in a manner compatible with the intake air and cooling. I don't know if it's just diameter or actual shape. I can't imagine it making that much difference if the diameter is the same, but I know almost nothing about it. The one thing I can tell you about polished aluminum spinners is this though: It takes work to keep it shiny and nice. I tried doing the original polish by hand, but that would take FOREVER. You'll need to either use a power buffer or take it some place to buff it out. Then, to maintain the shine, you'll need to buff it often. Bugs always looked bad, and then when I got spray wax and things like that on it (from spraying the cowling) it looked pretty ugly and you needed to do a full polish again. In the case of that plane, if I could have done it all over again, I would have just gone with paint. But, if you're chroming your step, it sounds like you're planning for the big polishing adventure anyway. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Scott Schmidt wrote: > Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I > placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great > and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and > reviewed the article that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different > props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended > Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is > seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isn't a huge speed > difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but > when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch > to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really > didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop > when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great. > > So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you. > > > My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I > really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match. > > > Scott Schmidt > > sschmidt@ussynthetic.com > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:18:51 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" This company makes some seriously wicked paints: http://alsacorp.com/chrome.htm, including one that replicates chrome to a T. I especially think the MultiChrome would rock on a spinner. Check it out but watch out for sticker shock. You thought that some chromatic paints were expensive. I may incorporate some of their stranger paints for trim and will probably order their sample pack shortly before. Michael Sausen -10 #352 tanks ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and reviewed the article that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isn't a huge speed difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great. So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you. My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match. Scott Schmidt sschmidt@ussynthetic.com ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:34:48 PM PST US From: RobHickman@aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner I was told by a local Valspar rep that they are going to introduce Crome and Glow in the dark paint. If you paint a RV-10 with glow in the dark paint do you need lights? do not archive Rob Hickman RV-10 #204 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:52:27 PM PST US From: James Hein Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein >If you paint a RV-10 with glow in the dark paint do you need lights? Do UFOs need lights? I'd be more worried about the Air Force interception....... -Jim 40384, Tailcone done, now wondering where to store it...... RobHickman@aol.com wrote: > I was told by a local Valspar rep that they are going to introduce > Crome and Glow in the dark paint. > > If you paint a RV-10 with glow in the dark paint do you need lights? > > do not archive > > Rob Hickman > RV-10 #204 > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:54:53 PM PST US From: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator mismatch Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align with the other after hanging them on the horizontal stabilizer. I understand that the horns might not align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair the elevator counterbalances to the horizontal on both sides outboard and lay a straight edge across the trailing edge of both elevators, there is about a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging slightly low. I am perplexed!! I did not create the hinge points, It was all match holed construction and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to tuck low as it nears the inbd end. I did discover that a slight pressure down on the right elev horn and slight up press on the left nearly brings them into alignment, but this obviously adds a preload that doesn't seem right. Any thoughts/ suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:26:10 PM PST US From: GenGrumpy@AOL.COM Subject: Re: RV10-List: CABIN DOORS Maybe I can make the switch do double duty..... Can you take a picture of where how this would fit? Thanks In a message dated 9/12/2005 10:45:38 PM Central Standard Time, Tim@MyRV10.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I believe it would be easy to put the microswitch just on the front side of the vertical doorpost on the front of the door, and have it click up when the door latch pin is extended all the way in to the locked position. Then you'd have a warning if the door wasn't latched tight. In fact, I was thinking that instead of adding a cabin lock that would cause a chelton thief to wreck my entire plane to try to get to it, I'd just install a big loud a$$ horn that would go off if someone opened the door without deactivating it. You could then either use a remote key FOB or an externally mounted keyed security electrical switch. If it was loud and obnoxious enough, it should work as well as a lock in preventing the theft. Tim GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote: > For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient > (and out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both > doors that could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel? > > Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my > builder, so would be nice to know now. > > Thanks - John #40404 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:29 PM PST US From: Darton Steve Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator mismatch --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve Mark, I had a small amount of difference in my elevators also. I called Van's about it, their response was "if it's less than 3/4" don't worry about it, just build the airplane!" Soon after I was at Van's and eyeballed their elevators very closely. They didn't match perfectly either. Steve --- Mark Chamberlain <10flyer@verizon.net> wrote: > Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align > with the other after hanging them on the horizontal > stabilizer. I understand that the horns might not > align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the > elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair > the elevator counterbalances to the horizontal on > both sides outboard and lay a straight edge across > the trailing edge of both elevators, there is about > a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging > slightly low. I am perplexed!! I did not create the > hinge points, It was all match holed construction > and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the > skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to > tuck low as it nears the inbd end. I did discover > that a slight pressure down on the right elev horn > and slight up press on the left nearly brings them > into alignment, but this obviously adds a preload > that doesn't seem right. Any thoughts/ suggestions > appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016) ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:29 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator mismatch --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis Mark Chamberlain wrote: > Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align with the other > after hanging them on the horizontal stabilizer. I understand that the > horns might not align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the > elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair the elevator > counterbalances to the horizontal on both sides outboard and lay a > straight edge across the trailing edge of both elevators, there is > about a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging slightly low. I > am perplexed!! I did not create the hinge points, It was all match > holed construction and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the > skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to tuck low as it nears > the inbd end. I did discover that a slight pressure down on the right > elev horn and slight up press on the left nearly brings them into > alignment, but this obviously adds a preload that doesn't seem right. > Any thoughts/ suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016) I may not be following you, but as i recall, the plans say to allign the elevator trailing edges with the HS and then to clamp the horns and drill, as you mention 9and as I also found in my case0 the horns don't align, but the whole process is designed to ensure that the trailing edges are aligned. What am I missing? Deems Davis # 406 waiting on wings to ship ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:29 PM PST US From: Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator mismatch DNA: do not archive Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section --- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---