Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:11 AM - Re: Hugo Rv10 (John Jessen)
2. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Hugo Rv10 ()
3. 09:17 AM - Re: Aft Heater Hose (Randy DeBauw)
4. 09:41 AM - My Power Distribution (Sean Stephens)
5. 11:51 AM - Re: My Power Distribution (Bruce Case)
6. 12:11 PM - Re: My Power Distribution (Sean Stephens)
7. 01:27 PM - Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (James Hein)
8. 02:02 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (Bobby J. Hughes)
9. 02:03 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (bruce snyder)
10. 02:45 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (PJ Seipel)
11. 02:51 PM - AHRS/Magnetometer Location (Condrey, Bob \(US SSA\))
12. 04:20 PM - Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location (David McNeill)
13. 04:35 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (John Jessen)
14. 04:48 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
15. 05:30 PM - Re: My Power Distribution (Dan Masys)
16. 05:39 PM - Tank Screw Countersinks (James Hein)
17. 06:00 PM - Re: My Power Distribution (Sean Stephens)
18. 07:01 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersinks (Neal George)
19. 07:03 PM - Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location (Tim Olson)
20. 07:08 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersinks (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
21. 07:09 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersinks (Tim Olson)
22. 07:19 PM - Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location (Richard Sipp)
23. 07:41 PM - (Sean Blair)
24. 08:21 PM - Re: (Tim Olson)
25. 09:11 PM - Fwd Engine baffle (DejaVu)
26. 09:34 PM - Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP (Rick)
27. 09:46 PM - Re: (Sean Blair)
Message 1
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If you don't want to build a jig, which is easy to do and you might as well
do it, here's my technique, which is even easier. Worked fine.
Essentially you stand the rudder up on the yet-to-be-rolled leading edge of
the skins. That puts the cord straight up and down relative to the work
bench. It doesn't hurt the skin edges at all. You then put a string level
on your drill so you know you are at a right angle to the cord. Drill.
Pictures attached.
John Jessen
#328 HS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Gosh I wish I'd read this two days ago.... At least I now have plenty of
scrap trailing edge from which to make my jig...
If anyone else needs a little scrap, drop me a note.... The countersinking
was a slight bit overzealous.
Ken 40439
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Hugo,
>
> It makes it a TON easier to build a little jig to hold the trailing edge
> and use a drill press to countersink.
>
> Read about it and see a picture here...
>
> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/archives/2005/01/dimpling_deburr.html>
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Darton Steve wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Hugo,
>>
>> Just follow those instructions as best as you can. The
>> drilled hole needs to be drilled perpendicular to the
>> chord so that it exits the other side in the right
>> place. The countersink is perpendicular to the skin
>> because that is how the rivets are shaped. If you get
>> out of that alignment it will not matter because the
>> rivet will conform to the shape of the hole. All of
>> these trailing edge rivet holes are out of alignmentin
>> respect to the face of the rivet head and the shaft of
>> the rivet.
>>
>> Steve 40212
>>
>> --- gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by:
>>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder
>>> trailing edge,the plans say first to drill
>>> perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink
>>> perpendicular to the face,how you will be able to do
>>> so if the hole line is out of line ,and what is the
>>> importance of do so if when you counters. in both
>>> sides for the skin dimples the hole remain is
>>> humongous.did I made something wrong?
>>> hugo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> browse
>>> Subscriptions page,
>>> FAQ,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Thanks to all the ideas I recive ,I will try my best.
Im sure the elevator will be better.
Hugo
do not archive
>
> From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
> Date: 2005/09/26 Mon AM 10:09:58 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> If you don't want to build a jig, which is easy to do and you might as well
> do it, here's my technique, which is even easier. Worked fine.
>
> Essentially you stand the rudder up on the yet-to-be-rolled leading edge of
> the skins. That puts the cord straight up and down relative to the work
> bench. It doesn't hurt the skin edges at all. You then put a string level
> on your drill so you know you are at a right angle to the cord. Drill.
>
> Pictures attached.
>
> John Jessen
> #328 HS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 10:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
>
> Gosh I wish I'd read this two days ago.... At least I now have plenty of
> scrap trailing edge from which to make my jig...
>
> If anyone else needs a little scrap, drop me a note.... The countersinking
> was a slight bit overzealous.
>
> Ken 40439
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> >
> > Hugo,
> >
> > It makes it a TON easier to build a little jig to hold the trailing edge
> > and use a drill press to countersink.
> >
> > Read about it and see a picture here...
> >
> > <http://rv10.stephensville.com/archives/2005/01/dimpling_deburr.html>
> >
> > -Sean #40303
> >
> > Darton Steve wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> Hugo,
> >>
> >> Just follow those instructions as best as you can. The
> >> drilled hole needs to be drilled perpendicular to the
> >> chord so that it exits the other side in the right
> >> place. The countersink is perpendicular to the skin
> >> because that is how the rivets are shaped. If you get
> >> out of that alignment it will not matter because the
> >> rivet will conform to the shape of the hole. All of
> >> these trailing edge rivet holes are out of alignmentin
> >> respect to the face of the rivet head and the shaft of
> >> the rivet.
> >>
> >> Steve 40212
> >>
> >> --- gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by:
> >>> <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> >>>
> >>> his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder
> >>> trailing edge,the plans say first to drill
> >>> perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink
> >>> perpendicular to the face,how you will be able to do
> >>> so if the hole line is out of line ,and what is the
> >>> importance of do so if when you counters. in both
> >>> sides for the skin dimples the hole remain is
> >>> humongous.did I made something wrong?
> >>> hugo
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> browse
> >>> Subscriptions page,
> >>> FAQ,
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Push and squeeze of fold spindle and mutilate. You can get it in. Or you can go
to 1 =BC" material. You will have plenty of heat unless you live where Tim
does. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
Thanks Randy. 1.5" still gives 0.5" protruding above the tunnel cover. There's
exactly 1.0" above the fuel bracket and 2.0" in between the valve selector and
the tunnel side skin.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
Ahn. I reduced the size to 1 =BD" going over the fuel valve and then stepped
it up to 2" to go into the rear connector. I used white pvc adapters at
home depot and it worked very well. You can buy one that has 2" od and if you
remove the threads it is 1 =BD" on the outside of the other end. Randy
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:48 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
What the (*&# is up with the 2" aft heater hose going over the fuel valve
bracket that only has 1" vertical space? Anyone routing it under the bracket
or see any problem with this?
Anh
#141
Message 4
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| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I've uploaded my main power distribution diagram for review. It's
essentially a Z-12 from Aeroelectric Connection, modified a bit for the
battery being in the tail. Please take a look and see if I've missed
anything, other than what's actually located on each bus, as that's not
totally finished yet.
You can find it here.. <http://rv10.stephensville.com/N428RV-pwr-dist.pdf>
Thanks,
Sean #40303
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bruce Case" <pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
Is your hobbs meter also hooked into an oil pressure sensor which isn't
shown here? Otherwise your hobbs is always running..
Bruce #446
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Yes it would be. This and other sensors are not shown in this diagram.
In the end, the separate hobbs may not even be there, if I go with the
ACS2005 engine monitor for example.
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
Bruce Case wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bruce Case" <pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
>
> Is your hobbs meter also hooked into an oil pressure sensor which
> isn't shown here? Otherwise your hobbs is always running..
>
> Bruce #446
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
James,
Slow down the drill to a very slow setting to minimize the bit chatter.
I prefer using a battery powered drill for CS instead of the air
powered. You can also use a little oil. Also Avery sells a #8 screw CS
bit. It is the #20.
Bobby Hughes
40116 Fuse / Engine
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few
countersinks. Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a
bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How
did you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
Message 9
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
Best way I found to do it was to start the drill very slowly and then build
up speed to keep the countersink bit from chattering. I also had a
countersink bit I bought from Yardstore.com that had a little longer pilot
on it and that seemed to help.
Bruce
#40353 wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few countersinks.
Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How did
you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
In my opinion Van's instructions for this are poor. You have a couple
of options: 1) Leave it as-is. Van's will tell you this is normal
because you don't have material providing a solid hold on the bit's
pilot; 2) Take off all the nutplates, make a jig to cleco on that will
hold the pilot for the countersink; 3) Make a jig to hold your spar such
that you can use a drillpress to do the countersinking.
I went with option 3. If the spar and drillpress are clamped solidly
enough that they can't move relative to each other, then you will
eliminate most of the "wiggle" that produces the jagged countersink.
PJ
40032
James Hein wrote:
> Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
>
> I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few
> countersinks. Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks
> a bit jagged.
>
> I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How
> did you do it? Any hints here?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you
located them? Have you actually tested them for interference and
accuracy?
I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top
of the tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate
location and it appears that that powering up the battery contactor
causes the compass to shift a few degrees. Although I haven't checked
it, I would imagine that the TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of
the battery) would cause additional influence/error. There's also the
rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since they're essentially
stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would take care of
that.
I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close
to the shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be
difficult at best to reach later for maintenance.
The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and
I believe that it's recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The
GRT approach has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out
on a wingtip.
Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
Bob #40105
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
What type of AHRS are you installing? what is a few degrees? The Chelton specify
four or less. I too am planning to locate there except my platform can move
further aft if necessary. Note that at the rear of my platform the 24" distance
requirement for the Chelton will be met from battery contactor and almost by
met TT AP pitch servo. Certainly will be met by strobe power supply. It sounds
also that some error can be removed during calibration.
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 2:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AHRS/Magnetometer Location
For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you located
them? Have you actually tested them for interference and accuracy?
I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top of the
tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate location and
it appears that that powering up the battery contactor causes the compass to
shift a few degrees. Although I haven't checked it, I would imagine that the
TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of the battery) would cause additional
influence/error. There's also the rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since
they're essentially stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would
take care of that.
I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close to the
shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be difficult at best
to reach later for maintenance.
The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and I believe
that it's recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The GRT approach
has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out on a wingtip.
Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
Bob #40105
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
Agree with Bobby. In fact (Randy DeBauw tip), sometimes I'll use the 100
degree debur bit that fits in the manual debur handle to do my countersinks.
The one with no pilot shaft. Just hold it perpendicular to the work, give
it 10 to 20 revolutions, wham, you got a perfect countersink. Works great
and is fast and very accurately consistent for #30 and #40 sizes. Not sure
about #20. Try using that to smooth out those ridges. Should be fine.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
James,
Slow down the drill to a very slow setting to minimize the bit chatter. I
prefer using a battery powered drill for CS instead of the air powered. You
can also use a little oil. Also Avery sells a #8 screw CS bit. It is the
#20.
Bobby Hughes
40116 Fuse / Engine
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few countersinks.
Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How did
you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
Message 14
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
Your not going to like my answer, but if you did not do the other spar
yet then you can try it. What I did was take a piece of scrap angle, and
clamp it in place under the three holes for a nut plate, Then I drilled
the holes to match the locations, I then CTSK'd for the rivets, and then
to CTSK for the center I put an extra long -3 in each hole to center the
guide, clamped it in place, and CTSK for the screw to the correct depth,
this countersunk the template at the same time making sure it would not
chatter. They all came out perfect. But I really do not think this is an
issue, because as you CTSK the spar you are actually making the whole
larger, so the metal left at the bottom is very thin no matter how you
do it. The more important part of this is not making it larger than
necessary for the tank skin to sit down in the CTSK, as the strength
comes from the skin set in the opening and pulling against the nut plate
to seat deeper. This method was told to me by Sam, a fellow 9A builder.
Clear as mud? contact me directly if you would like me to clear it up
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few
countersinks. Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a
bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How
did you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Circuit diagrams look fine. I have the Z-12 schematic running in my -7A, using
the 8 amp standby alternator rather than the 20A, and a Nippon Denso internally
regulated main alternator, for which I added a disconnect relay (connected
to Bob's crowbar overvoltage sensor) in case of alternator voltage runaway. Works
well, though my electric gyros didn't like being on the downstream side of
the diode connecting the main bus and essential bus, since there is about a
1.2 volt drop across the diode. Simple solution to this problem has been to keep
the E-bus Alternate Feed swith on in addition to the Master switch, which
brings the essential bus up to the same voltage as the main bus.
Last week I inadvertently left the alternate feed switch on overnight and ran down
the battery to nothing during a long cross country. I discovered for the
first time that I could run both the main alternator and the standby alternator
at the same time, and increase the total amps available for running the airplane
and charging the battery. I had always figured I would have to shut the
main alternator down to prevent interactions of the two voltage regulators, but
in practice running both worked like a charm.
Bob's dual alternator circuits work well. Are you using his fuse block approach
also? That's a little less elegant in my -7A since I have to crawl under the
panel to get to the fuse blocks, but the idea is not to be replacing fuses while
flying in any case. Will be putting fuse blocks in the -10 also.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
Four weeks into the project and working on RV-10 elevators, with VS, HS and rudder
done.
> From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> Date: 2005/09/26 Mon PM 12:41:28 EDT
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I've uploaded my main power distribution diagram for review. It's
> essentially a Z-12 from Aeroelectric Connection, modified a bit for the
> battery being in the tail. Please take a look and see if I've missed
> anything, other than what's actually located on each bus, as that's not
> totally finished yet.
>
> You can find it here.. <http://rv10.stephensville.com/N428RV-pwr-dist.pdf>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersinks |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Dan Masys wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> Circuit diagrams look fine. I have the Z-12 schematic running in my -7A, using
the 8 amp standby alternator rather than the 20A, and a Nippon Denso internally
regulated main alternator, for which I added a disconnect relay (connected
to Bob's crowbar overvoltage sensor) in case of alternator voltage runaway.
Works well, though my electric gyros didn't like being on the downstream side
of the diode connecting the main bus and essential bus, since there is about
a 1.2 volt drop across the diode. Simple solution to this problem has been to
keep the E-bus Alternate Feed swith on in addition to the Master switch, which
brings the essential bus up to the same voltage as the main bus.
>
> Last week I inadvertently left the alternate feed switch on overnight and ran
down the battery to nothing during a long cross country. I discovered for the
first time that I could run both the main alternator and the standby alternator
at the same time, and increase the total amps available for running the airplane
and charging the battery. I had always figured I would have to shut the
main alternator down to prevent interactions of the two voltage regulators,
but in practice running both worked like a charm.
>
I've often wondered if both circuits could be open and not do damage.
> Bob's dual alternator circuits work well. Are you using his fuse block approach
also? That's a little less elegant in my -7A since I have to crawl under
the panel to get to the fuse blocks, but the idea is not to be replacing fuses
while flying in any case. Will be putting fuse blocks in the -10 also.
>
Yes, going fuse blocks on everything except the two alt fld breakers on
the panel.
Thanks for the comments,
-Sean #40303
> -Dan Masys
> RV-7A flying
> Four weeks into the project and working on RV-10 elevators, with VS, HS and rudder
done.
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersinks |
James -
It's hard to say. Running a screw down in the dimple doesn't tell us
much. The countersink should be just deep enough for the DIMPLE in the
skin that will eventually fill the countersink to sit in it without a
gap between the skin material and the spar flange material. I drilled,
dimpled and marked (ie 0.032, #8 Screw) scraps of the appropriate
thickness and use them as gauges for countersinks. Countersink and
check with the gauge. Turn the cage a few notches (sometimes 10, other
times 2) and check again. When the gauge stops rocking in the hole and
sits flush, wipe it with MEK, then the Alodine pen (www.steinair.com
<http://www.steinair.com/> ) and move to the next one.
Neal
www.appaero.com
RV-7 N8ZG (fuselage - seat & baggage ribs)
RV-8 N998GM (wings finished!)
So...... Are these too deep? Should I start to worry now?
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Bob, See inline:
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you
> located them? Have you actually tested them for interference and accuracy?
>
>
I built a shelf maybe 6" rearward of the baggage bulkhead, above the
battery. Moving it towards the rear of that section (near the next
bulkhead) would not be a bad option either. I may end up moving mine
back some day if I decide to make a "hat shelf" in the upper baggage
wall.
I did do a quick test with the Chelton AHRS for magnetic interferences.
I know Vic Syracuse had his on the floor next to the battery and
when he had the towbar in the baggage area, he had some interference.
In my install, I moved the control surfaces and didn't see any movement
at all on the magnetometer. There is a PC interface that you can use
for doing the iron calibrations, so it should be apparent if there
is any effect. I put my towbar in the baggage area and didn't see
any movement either. I did not do any powerup of my autopilot servos
and did not power up a battery contactor. I'm about 20" away from those
things. Crossbow likes 24" from any high-current or high-frequency
things, but I'm at least on the outer edge of that spec.
My shelf I think is visible in some of my latest finishing kit pictures.
I did what David McNeill did basically...just spanned my longerons with
some angle, although I laid my angle in differently. Same basic thing.
Originally I was thinking I'd try to mount it hanging from the top of
the tailcone, but I think it would be harder to work with in future
leveling and it may move around more. It would also be closer to
any antennas you put in the roof there, but that probably doesn't
matter much.
>
> I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top
> of the tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate
> location and it appears that that powering up the battery contactor
> causes the compass to shift a few degrees. Although I havent checked
> it, I would imagine that the TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of
> the battery) would cause additional influence/error. Theres also the
> rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since theyre essentially
> stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would take care of that.
>
>
You're right that the seat belt harnesses should be able to be
calibrated out. I would think that the non-moving solenoid
might also be in that situation. The autopilot servo didn't
interfere when non-powered, so it would have to interfere
just from the motor standpoint if it is going to.
>
> I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close
> to the shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be
> difficult at best to reach later for maintenance.
>
I agree. I think that would be overkill. If it doesn't work where
I have it now, I think I'll just make a higher type of shelf for
it to mount closer to the ceiling. I'll probably have it painted
already though, so I'd build the shelf to hold it high, not
rivet through the roof in that case.
>
>
> The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and
> I believe that its recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The
> GRT approach has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out
> on a wingtip.
>
>
Here are pictures of my install:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050905/index.html
You're right that they recommend mounting on centerline, and
near center CG, and all that stuff. But, I was also told by them
that in our small craft, it isn't really too big a deal if you
move it way forward or aft of CG, or even put it off centerline.
Those are ideals, but I think most locations you can think of would
probably work fine. That said, there aren't all that many great
locations that I could think of. I was just happy though that
the control movement didn't cause anything. I'm really guessing
it won't be an issue, but you're correct to have concerns...we're
all kind of testing these waters.
Hope the photos help...
Tim
>
> Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersinks |
you are trying to put the screw in without the skin, so it will sit
deeper, look at the page for the measurements. From the measurement you
show you are just 8 thousands over, They are listed on page 13-3, in the
lower right hand corner. For the tank skins they list 3/8 as the max on
the top opening and tapering to 7/32 as the max for the lower opening. I
would assume if you went a little large you would be ok, but you would
have to verify this with Vans. These measurements are different for the
inspection plate holes, so do those first as they are smaller.
Hope this helps
Dan 40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersinks
So...... Are these too deep? Should I start to worry now?
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Tank Screw Countersinks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi James,
I guess my answer isn't maybe exactly what you want, but, yes, I think
those are a little deep. Would I think you should worry?? Probably
not. I think you'll be just fine. You can give your question to Van's
for the reliable answer....mine's only worth what was paid for it.
But, there's not a whole lot of options left if it was a major problem,
other than replacement, or a doubler strip.
Are they all that deep, or is it just a handful I'm still not sure
I'd worry though, even if it were a bunch...but it would be nice
to ask Vans and post your reply back here.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
James Hein wrote:
> So...... Are these too deep? Should I start to worry now?
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
The article on instrument panels in the current Kit Planes says Direct To
Avionics will be introducing cable kits, mounting hardware and instructions
for the proper location of the AHRS in the 10. Hope this will be available
soon.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AHRS/Magnetometer Location
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> Bob, See inline:
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>> For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you
>> located them? Have you actually tested them for interference and
>> accuracy?
>>
>>
>
> I built a shelf maybe 6" rearward of the baggage bulkhead, above the
> battery. Moving it towards the rear of that section (near the next
> bulkhead) would not be a bad option either. I may end up moving mine
> back some day if I decide to make a "hat shelf" in the upper baggage
> wall.
>
> I did do a quick test with the Chelton AHRS for magnetic interferences.
> I know Vic Syracuse had his on the floor next to the battery and
> when he had the towbar in the baggage area, he had some interference.
> In my install, I moved the control surfaces and didn't see any movement
> at all on the magnetometer. There is a PC interface that you can use
> for doing the iron calibrations, so it should be apparent if there
> is any effect. I put my towbar in the baggage area and didn't see
> any movement either. I did not do any powerup of my autopilot servos
> and did not power up a battery contactor. I'm about 20" away from those
> things. Crossbow likes 24" from any high-current or high-frequency
> things, but I'm at least on the outer edge of that spec.
>
> My shelf I think is visible in some of my latest finishing kit pictures.
> I did what David McNeill did basically...just spanned my longerons with
> some angle, although I laid my angle in differently. Same basic thing.
> Originally I was thinking I'd try to mount it hanging from the top of
> the tailcone, but I think it would be harder to work with in future
> leveling and it may move around more. It would also be closer to
> any antennas you put in the roof there, but that probably doesn't
> matter much.
>
>>
>> I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top
>> of the tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate
>> location and it appears that that powering up the battery contactor
>> causes the compass to shift a few degrees. Although I havent checked
>> it, I would imagine that the TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of
>> the battery) would cause additional influence/error. Theres also the
>> rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since theyre essentially
>> stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would take care of that.
>>
>>
>
> You're right that the seat belt harnesses should be able to be
> calibrated out. I would think that the non-moving solenoid
> might also be in that situation. The autopilot servo didn't
> interfere when non-powered, so it would have to interfere
> just from the motor standpoint if it is going to.
>
>
>>
>> I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close
>> to the shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be
>> difficult at best to reach later for maintenance.
>>
>
> I agree. I think that would be overkill. If it doesn't work where
> I have it now, I think I'll just make a higher type of shelf for
> it to mount closer to the ceiling. I'll probably have it painted
> already though, so I'd build the shelf to hold it high, not
> rivet through the roof in that case.
>
>> The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and
>> I believe that its recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The GRT
>> approach has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out on a
>> wingtip.
>>
>>
>
> Here are pictures of my install:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050905/index.html
>
> You're right that they recommend mounting on centerline, and
> near center CG, and all that stuff. But, I was also told by them
> that in our small craft, it isn't really too big a deal if you
> move it way forward or aft of CG, or even put it off centerline.
> Those are ideals, but I think most locations you can think of would
> probably work fine. That said, there aren't all that many great
> locations that I could think of. I was just happy though that
> the control movement didn't cause anything. I'm really guessing
> it won't be an issue, but you're correct to have concerns...we're
> all kind of testing these waters.
>
> Hope the photos help...
> Tim
>
>>
>> Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 23
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Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside the
fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
Sean Blair
N967SB reserved
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List: |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the forward
rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Blair wrote:
> Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside
> the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB reserved
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially the L/H
ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine case. The
aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this
bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a
3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It
appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying
the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one on the
rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
Message 26
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| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
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in their client's default configuration. If you're using
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Message 27
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to get
it?
SB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the forward
rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Blair wrote:
> Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside
> the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB reserved
>
>
>
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