Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:10 AM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (Jesse Saint)
2. 05:16 AM - Re: My Power Distribution (RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\))
3. 05:56 AM - Re: (Tim Olson)
4. 10:03 AM - Re: ()
5. 11:04 AM - Re: Shoe Goo (RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\))
6. 11:14 AM - Re: Re: ()
7. 12:24 PM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (Scott Schmidt)
8. 12:40 PM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (Sean Stephens)
9. 12:47 PM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (OldOOwl@aol.com)
10. 01:26 PM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (Scott Schmidt)
11. 03:07 PM - Re: (Byron Gillespie)
12. 03:22 PM - Pro Seal (Rob Hunter)
13. 03:35 PM - Re: Pro Seal (James Ochs)
14. 03:44 PM - Vans response to the tank countersinks (James Hein)
15. 03:45 PM - Re: Pro Seal (Tim Olson)
16. 05:22 PM - Re: My Power Distribution (Dan Masys)
17. 05:45 PM - Re: Pro Seal (Robert G. Wright)
18. 07:39 PM - Re: Pro Seal (Rob Hunter)
19. 09:01 PM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (DejaVu)
20. 10:58 PM - Re: My Power Distribution (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had to make a
bracket that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and found a screw
that would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a picture of our setup
next time we have the top cowl off, which may not be for another several
weeks. We are going to need our 100-hour by that time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles does not fit
the engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and trim that piece to
get it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially
the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine
case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only
about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the
plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a
smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to
make things fit after trying the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips
from anyone who has a C4B5 engine that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one
on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
Message 2
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| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
One possibility for the people that are going to go with the fuse block is
to use the space on the panel that would have been breakers and mount the fuse
block behind a door so they are easily accessible. Of course if you don't have
the space this wouldn't be an option.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Ailerons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Circuit diagrams look fine. I have the Z-12 schematic running in my -7A, using
the 8 amp standby alternator rather than the 20A, and a Nippon Denso internally
regulated main alternator, for which I added a disconnect relay (connected
to Bob's crowbar overvoltage sensor) in case of alternator voltage runaway. Works
well, though my electric gyros didn't like being on the downstream side of
the diode connecting the main bus and essential bus, since there is about a
1.2 volt drop across the diode. Simple solution to this problem has been to keep
the E-bus Alternate Feed swith on in addition to the Master switch, which
brings the essential bus up to the same voltage as the main bus.
Last week I inadvertently left the alternate feed switch on overnight and ran down
the battery to nothing during a long cross country. I discovered for the
first time that I could run both the main alternator and the standby alternator
at the same time, and increase the total amps available for running the airplane
and charging the battery. I had always figured I would have to shut the
main alternator down to prevent interactions of the two voltage regulators, but
in practice running both worked like a charm.
Bob's dual alternator circuits work well. Are you using his fuse block approach
also? That's a little less elegant in my -7A since I have to crawl under the
panel to get to the fuse blocks, but the idea is not to be replacing fuses while
flying in any case. Will be putting fuse blocks in the -10 also.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
Four weeks into the project and working on RV-10 elevators, with VS, HS and rudder
done.
> From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> Date: 2005/09/26 Mon PM 12:41:28 EDT
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I've uploaded my main power distribution diagram for review. It's
> essentially a Z-12 from Aeroelectric Connection, modified a bit for
> the battery being in the tail. Please take a look and see if I've
> missed anything, other than what's actually located on each bus, as
> that's not totally finished yet.
>
> You can find it here..
> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/N428RV-pwr-dist.pdf>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List: |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability.
They sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There
are other products that are the same thing under other names, but
E6000 costs less than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube
or so. You'll find it handy for other things later on too, I'm sure.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
> Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to get
> it?
>
> SB
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the forward
> rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
> in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
> I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
> you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
> may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>
>>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside
>>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>>
>>
>>
>>Sean Blair
>>
>>N967SB reserved
>>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List: |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Ooohhh....Shoe Goo, I know what that is. It's great stuff.
Where else but in the experimental world can a person put shoe goo on their airplane?
I'll give it a try and it should work great.
Thanks for the help.
Sean
---- Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability.
> They sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There
> are other products that are the same thing under other names, but
> E6000 costs less than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube
> or so. You'll find it handy for other things later on too, I'm sure.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to get
> > it?
> >
> > SB
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List:
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the forward
> > rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
> > in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
> > I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
> > you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
> > may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Blair wrote:
> >
> >>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside
> >>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Sean Blair
> >>
> >>N967SB reserved
> >>
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Message 5
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|
Great stuff, one of the best kept secrets in glues. Just keep in mind that it's
a styrene monomer and uses Toluene as a solvent therefore will eat through
anything that toluene will such as Styrofoam and it could possibly soften Proseal
as it is Toluene based.
Most common brand is Goop. It's also handy for gluing wires in place rather than
using the stick on pads for cable ties. The Marine Goop has UV blockers which
might be better for external use. Also polyurethane glues (Gorilla) are
very good for some things. Just rough up the surfaces before you use any glue
as it purely mechanical bond on aluminum.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Ailerons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of seanblair@adelphia.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
--> RV10-List message posted by: <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Ooohhh....Shoe Goo, I know what that is. It's great stuff.
Where else but in the experimental world can a person put shoe goo on their airplane?
I'll give it a try and it should work great.
Thanks for the help.
Sean
---- Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability.
> They sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There are
> other products that are the same thing under other names, but E6000
> costs less than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube or so. You'll
> find it handy for other things later on too, I'm sure.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair"
> > --> <seanblair@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where
> > to get it?
> >
> > SB
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List:
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the
> > forward rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I
> > riveted mine in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
> > I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
> > you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so
> > it may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Blair wrote:
> >
> >>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or
> >>inside the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Sean Blair
> >>
> >>N967SB reserved
> >>
> >>
> >>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: : Re: RV10-List: |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
If you guys try to glue somethings try 5200 from 3M fast cure (white or black)
12 dol for a crtridge at home depot ,the toughest marine glue (even under water),I
put my boats togheter with it.
Hugo
>
> From: <seanblair@adelphia.net>
> Date: 2005/09/27 Tue PM 01:02:52 EDT
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
> Ooohhh....Shoe Goo, I know what that is. It's great stuff.
>
> Where else but in the experimental world can a person put shoe goo on their airplane?
I'll give it a try and it should work great.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Sean
>
> ---- Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability.
> > They sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There
> > are other products that are the same thing under other names, but
> > E6000 costs less than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube
> > or so. You'll find it handy for other things later on too, I'm sure.
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > Sean Blair wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
> > >
> > > Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to get
> > > it?
> > >
> > > SB
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > > Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
> > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV10-List:
> > >
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > >
> > > I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the forward
> > > rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
> > > in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
> > > I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
> > > you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
> > > may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
> > >
> > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> > > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> > >
> > >
> > > Sean Blair wrote:
> > >
> > >>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside
> > >>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>Sean Blair
> > >>
> > >>N967SB reserved
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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> >
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didn't line
up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
casing is just a little different.
I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
your own brackets where they don't fit. Try to get the angle as close
as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
cowl since it is something you can't bend later. You also have to be
aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the ramp
itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine
is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll have to
fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower cowl on.
I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine that has gone
through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
out ok.
Anh
#141
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Just curious,
Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
baffles to match the D4A5?
-Sean #40303
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didnt
> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
> casing is just a little different.
>
> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
> your own brackets where they dont fit. Try to get the angle as close
> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
> cowl since it is something you cant bend later. You also have to be
> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
> *To:* RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>
> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
> that has gone through this.
>
> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
> out ok.
>
> Anh
>
> #141
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Please discontinue my rv10-list.
Thanks!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Well, I actually have the D4A5 and it still doesn't fit.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Just curious,
Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
baffles to match the D4A5?
-Sean #40303
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didn't
> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
> casing is just a little different.
>
> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
> your own brackets where they don't fit. Try to get the angle as close
> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
> cowl since it is something you can't bend later. You also have to be
> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
> *To:* RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>
> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
> that has gone through this.
>
> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
> out ok.
>
> Anh
>
> #141
>
Message 11
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| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Sean:
I did the same thing Tim did - rivet the tail cone locations and glue
the interior of fuselage. I used "marine goop" from the Walmart aviation
department. I have used various types of "goop" the past and all have
performed excellent. Used to secure glass lens to a waterproof case -
had to break the glass to remove.... Didn't want to chance the exterior
but if the interior falls off - I still have more goop! If I remember
right the E6000 is the shoe goo? Someone can verify.
Byron #40253
Ready to paint the interior fuselage bottom before working the cabin
top.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the forward
rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integraonline.com>
I've gotten to the point of using Pro Seal for the first time on the
rudder and didn't know the difference between the 1/2 hour stuff and the
2 hour stuff. I just found out I ordered the 1/2 hour Proseal. Will I
have time to use this on the rudder or do I have to order the 2 hours
Proseal.
Rob Hunter
40432
Rudder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability. They
sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There are other
products that are the same thing under other names, but E6000 costs less
than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube or so. You'll find it handy
for other things later on too, I'm sure.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
> Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to
> get it?
>
> SB
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the
> forward
> rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
> in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
> I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
> you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
> may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>
>>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or
>>inside
>>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>>
>>
>>
>>Sean Blair
>>
>>N967SB reserved
>>
>>
>>
>
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Message 13
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Get everything fit together and set before you mix up the proseal. I
had a friend come over and help when I did mine and i think it took us
about 15 minutes to get the goop on and everything cleco'd together and
weighted down. We didn't really rush it and it came out great ;) I
used the 30 minute stuff as well and it was fine.
James
Rob Hunter wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integraonline.com>
>
>I've gotten to the point of using Pro Seal for the first time on the
>rudder and didn't know the difference between the 1/2 hour stuff and the
>2 hour stuff. I just found out I ordered the 1/2 hour Proseal. Will I
>have time to use this on the rudder or do I have to order the 2 hours
>Proseal.
>
>Rob Hunter
>40432
>Rudder
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:55 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability. They
>sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There are other
>products that are the same thing under other names, but E6000 costs less
>than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube or so. You'll find it handy
>for other things later on too, I'm sure.
>
>
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>Sean Blair wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to
>>get it?
>>
>>SB
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the
>>forward
>>rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
>>in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
>>I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
>>you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
>>may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or
>>>inside
>>>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Sean Blair
>>>
>>>N967SB reserved
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Vans response to the tank countersinks |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 15
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
The bad news is, you'll want to buy the 2 hour stuff for the tanks.
The good news is, I think the 1/2 hour stuff is a smaller quantity,
right?? You're not going to have a problem getting it smeared on the
rudder well within the 1/2 hour timeframe. Same with the other
surfaces, so you'll be able to use the 1/2 hour stuff just fine, and
in fact it might be nice because it'll set up quicker and you can get
to finishing those parts probably the next day.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rob Hunter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integraonline.com>
>
> I've gotten to the point of using Pro Seal for the first time on the
> rudder and didn't know the difference between the 1/2 hour stuff and the
> 2 hour stuff. I just found out I ordered the 1/2 hour Proseal. Will I
> have time to use this on the rudder or do I have to order the 2 hours
> Proseal.
>
> Rob Hunter
> 40432
> Rudder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:55 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability. They
> sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There are other
> products that are the same thing under other names, but E6000 costs less
> than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube or so. You'll find it handy
> for other things later on too, I'm sure.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to
>>get it?
>>
>>SB
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the
>>forward
>>rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
>>in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
>>I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
>>you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
>>may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or
>>>inside
>>>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Sean Blair
>>>
>>>N967SB reserved
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Message 16
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|
| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
> One possibility for the people that are going to go with the fuse block is
to use the space on the panel that would have been breakers and mount the fuse
block behind a door so they are easily accessible. Of course if you don't
have the space this wouldn't be an option.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Ailerons
Andy Karmy had a nice solution for this on his RV-9A website, shown here:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/img_0022.htm
Basically, he mounted the fuse blocks on a hinged plate between the main panel
and subpanel, with a cowl fastener to hold it in place. Quarter turn and viola,
the fuses drop down into view. Better solution than I have on my -7A, where
the fuse blocks are mounted to the firewall recess, but I didn't see it before
I had mine in place.
-Dan Masys
#40448 elevators
Message 17
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
When I did mine it was in my outside workshop in 90 degree Alabama humid
heat with a struggling air conditioner. If I got 30 minutes out of it I'd
be surprised. Follow everyone's guidance to be as prepared as you can
before you mix it. I've got toulene and another batch for my elevators;
I'll also try to be more ready even though it's a little cooler.
Rob
#392 elevators
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pro Seal
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Get everything fit together and set before you mix up the proseal. I
had a friend come over and help when I did mine and i think it took us
about 15 minutes to get the goop on and everything cleco'd together and
weighted down. We didn't really rush it and it came out great ;) I
used the 30 minute stuff as well and it was fine.
James
Rob Hunter wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integraonline.com>
>
>I've gotten to the point of using Pro Seal for the first time on the
>rudder and didn't know the difference between the 1/2 hour stuff and the
>2 hour stuff. I just found out I ordered the 1/2 hour Proseal. Will I
>have time to use this on the rudder or do I have to order the 2 hours
>Proseal.
>
>Rob Hunter
>40432
>Rudder
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:55 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability. They
>sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There are other
>products that are the same thing under other names, but E6000 costs less
>than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube or so. You'll find it handy
>for other things later on too, I'm sure.
>
>
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>Sean Blair wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to
>>get it?
>>
>>SB
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the
>>forward
>>rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
>>in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
>>I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
>>you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
>>may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or
>>>inside
>>>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Sean Blair
>>>
>>>N967SB reserved
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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Message 18
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integraonline.com>
Thanks, I really appreciate the help!!
Rob Hunter
40432
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
The bad news is, you'll want to buy the 2 hour stuff for the tanks. The
good news is, I think the 1/2 hour stuff is a smaller quantity, right??
You're not going to have a problem getting it smeared on the rudder well
within the 1/2 hour timeframe. Same with the other surfaces, so you'll
be able to use the 1/2 hour stuff just fine, and in fact it might be
nice because it'll set up quicker and you can get to finishing those
parts probably the next day.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rob Hunter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Hunter"
> --> <rwhunter@integraonline.com>
>
> I've gotten to the point of using Pro Seal for the first time on the
> rudder and didn't know the difference between the 1/2 hour stuff and
> the 2 hour stuff. I just found out I ordered the 1/2 hour Proseal.
> Will I have time to use this on the rudder or do I have to order the 2
> hours Proseal.
>
> Rob Hunter
> 40432
> Rudder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:55 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> E6000 is basically "shoe goo" and it has REALLY good stickability.
> They sell it at Wal-Mart, and hardware stores all over. There are
> other products that are the same thing under other names, but E6000
> costs less than most. I think I paid about $2.50/tube or so. You'll
> find it handy for other things later on too, I'm sure.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Thanks Tim...I'm not familiar with E6000. Could you tell me where to
>>get it?
>>
>>SB
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:21 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List:
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>I put them outside at the rudder cable exits, and inside at the
>>forward
>>rudder cable exits into the cabin from the tunnel. I riveted mine
>>in at the tail, but used E6000 on the ones inside the cockpit.
>>I'm thinking E6000 might work fine for the ones outside too, but if
>>you lost one in flight, you'd have to re-paint the replacement...so it
>>may be worth some rivets just for that future small possibility.
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or
>>>inside
>>>the fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Sean Blair
>>>
>>>N967SB reserved
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Thanks Jesse and others. I feel a little better that at least I'm not whacked.
Included tonight are some pictures. I'm discovering some other problems yet
on the L/H fwd air ramp. Please look at them and tell me if my mitigations below
are sound:
1. The aft center bracket on top of the engine sat too high above the screw holes.
I took a shot of the screw hole itself so you can see how different it is
from the true D4A5. I ground down about 50% of the mid section of the bracket
to make it fit. Is this section now too thin that I should fabricate another?
2. First of 3 problems on the L/H air ramp. The big hole that will have a screen
underneath (not too concerned and don't know what it is for at this point)
is too close to the fiberglass lip. One of the #30 holes is actually underneath
the glass. You're supposed to trim the metal later so that the ramp lip is
almost even with the glass lip. That would cut out this #30 hole. I can either
cut a half-moon in the glass and same on the metal side so that this #30
hole will stay. Will I have difficulty installing the bottom cowl later on? Or
I can trim the entire glass lip back to expose the #30 hole. Note a picture
of 410RV shows the air seal partially covering the big hole on Tim Olson's website.
3. Second prob. The center of the smaller 3/4" hole on the same air ramp where
the prop gov cable will protrude through is about 1/2" inboard of the prop gov
arm from eyeballing it. Will I have a problem aligning and installing the
prop gov cable?
4. Third prob. One of my pictures shows my pinky pointing at a screw hole on
the engine case. A bracket goes there and I intend to have it contact the top
side of the air ramp. I don't think it will interfere with the center fwd baffle
later. Do you see any other problems with this?
The last picture is of the R/H air ramp. No problems here. I happened to see
that the glass lip of the bottom cowl is aligned with the rear of the ring gear.
Is this about how yours are? My glass lips are not too fat, are they? I
don't remember being told to trim them back when working on the cowls.
Pew! that's enough for one night. Thanks in advance. Guess I've been spoiled up
to this point (except the oil door took longer than the big door - exaggerated
a bit. What up with that) that things have been fitting together much nicer.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had to make a bracket
that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and found a screw that
would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a picture of our setup next time
we have the top cowl off, which may not be for another several weeks. We
are going to need our 100-hour by that time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles does not fit the
engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and trim that piece to get
it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially the
L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine case. The
aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only about 1/2 of
this bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the plans call for
a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt.
It appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying
the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one on
the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
Message 20
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| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I did this as well. I created a tray for the pilot side that was 15"
wide by 8" deep that was hinged to the bottom of the sub panel. Keep in
mind that if you put it on the co-pilot side it will interfere with the
push/pull cables for the heater because they will likely be routed below
the sub panel. Also on the Pilot side, stay in enough so that it won't
interfere with the vent or naca scoop.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
> One possibility for the people that are going to go with the fuse
block is to use the space on the panel that would have been breakers and
mount the fuse block behind a door so they are easily accessible. Of
course if you don't have the space this wouldn't be an option.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Ailerons
Andy Karmy had a nice solution for this on his RV-9A website, shown
here:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/img_0022.htm
Basically, he mounted the fuse blocks on a hinged plate between the main
panel and subpanel, with a cowl fastener to hold it in place. Quarter
turn and viola, the fuses drop down into view. Better solution than I
have on my -7A, where the fuse blocks are mounted to the firewall
recess, but I didn't see it before I had mine in place.
-Dan Masys
#40448 elevators
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