Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:07 AM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (Randy DeBauw)
2. 08:12 AM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
3. 09:01 AM - Builders Wanted (Dave Saylor)
4. 09:25 AM - Re: Trim Tab Hinges ()
5. 11:54 AM - Cabin Cover Group Buy (Jesse Saint)
6. 12:18 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy (David McNeill)
7. 12:25 PM - Change of Plans, Extra Stuff (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 01:07 PM - Re: Change of Plans, Extra Stuff (David Talley)
9. 01:14 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy (Phil Hall)
10. 01:25 PM - Re: Change of Plans, Extra Stuff (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
11. 01:47 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
12. 02:13 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy (John Jessen)
13. 02:18 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy (Mark Ritter)
14. 02:51 PM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (DejaVu)
15. 06:09 PM - Re: Trim Tab Hinges (John Hilger)
16. 06:11 PM - Fuselage Wire Routing (Larry Rosen)
17. 06:22 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
18. 07:14 PM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
Just a word of caution on the air dams. I had some help in this area.
Tim James that helped with the baffle area told me to leave at least
3/8" clearance between the rear of the cowl and the front of the air
dam. He said that any less and getting the rubber up through that gap
would be a real problem. As it worked out I have one rivet on the air
inlet for the heater has 1/2 of a rivet left, we cut through it to
maintain the clearance. It has made the removal of the cowl much easier.
That gap between the rear of the cowl and the front of the air dam is
cover completely with the rubber seal material. Hope this helps. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Thanks Jesse and others. I feel a little better that at least I'm not
whacked. Included tonight are some pictures. I'm discovering some
other problems yet on the L/H fwd air ramp. Please look at them and
tell me if my mitigations below are sound:
1. The aft center bracket on top of the engine sat too high above the
screw holes. I took a shot of the screw hole itself so you can see how
different it is from the true D4A5. I ground down about 50% of the mid
section of the bracket to make it fit. Is this section now too thin
that I should fabricate another?
2. First of 3 problems on the L/H air ramp. The big hole that will
have a screen underneath (not too concerned and don't know what it is
for at this point) is too close to the fiberglass lip. One of the #30
holes is actually underneath the glass. You're supposed to trim the
metal later so that the ramp lip is almost even with the glass lip.
That would cut out this #30 hole. I can either cut a half-moon in the
glass and same on the metal side so that this #30 hole will stay. Will I
have difficulty installing the bottom cowl later on? Or I can trim the
entire glass lip back to expose the #30 hole. Note a picture of 410RV
shows the air seal partially covering the big hole on Tim Olson's
website.
3. Second prob. The center of the smaller 3/4" hole on the same air
ramp where the prop gov cable will protrude through is about 1/2"
inboard of the prop gov arm from eyeballing it. Will I have a problem
aligning and installing the prop gov cable?
4. Third prob. One of my pictures shows my pinky pointing at a screw
hole on the engine case. A bracket goes there and I intend to have it
contact the top side of the air ramp. I don't think it will interfere
with the center fwd baffle later. Do you see any other problems with
this?
The last picture is of the R/H air ramp. No problems here. I happened
to see that the glass lip of the bottom cowl is aligned with the rear of
the ring gear. Is this about how yours are? My glass lips are not too
fat, are they? I don't remember being told to trim them back when
working on the cowls.
Pew! that's enough for one night. Thanks in advance. Guess I've been
spoiled up to this point (except the oil door took longer than the big
door - exaggerated a bit. What up with that) that things have been
fitting together much nicer.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had
to make a bracket that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and
found a screw that would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a
picture of our setup next time we have the top cowl off, which may not
be for another several weeks. We are going to need our 100-hour by that
time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles
does not fit the engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and
trim that piece to get it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the ramp
itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine
is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll have to
fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower cowl on.
I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine that has gone
through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine,
another one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed
to work out ok.
Anh
#141
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
You have to make a new bracket. I had the same problem. The model year
on my engine is 1978 and it is not the same as the newer engines. When
you make the bracket it will be hard to get to the screw holding the
bracket on. I solved that problem by making the bracket in two pieces
with one part that screws on to the block and then it screws onto the
part that is riveted to the air dam part. Sorry I don't have a photo of
that bracket. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
--> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Well, I actually have the D4A5 and it still doesn't fit.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Just curious,
Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
baffles to match the D4A5?
-Sean #40303
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didn't
> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
> casing is just a little different.
>
> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
> your own brackets where they don't fit. Try to get the angle as close
> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
> cowl since it is something you can't bend later. You also have to be
> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
> *To:* RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>
> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
> that has gone through this.
>
> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
> out ok.
>
> Anh
>
> #141
>
Message 3
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Hello All,
AirCrafters LLC is looking for help! We need builders experienced with
avionics, airframe construction, powerplant installation, maintenance, and
repair. We work on all types of experimental aircraft from ultralights to
turboprops. We're located at Watsonville Airport (WVI) near Monterey,
California. Starting wages are $20-$25/hr. If you love building airplanes,
please email a cover letter and resume to jobs@AirCraftersLLC.com. Please
see www.AirCraftersLLC.com for more information.
Thanks,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
Does anyone know if the hinges provided to attach the trim tabs need
priming? They look kind of like they might be anodized, but I'm not
sure.
Thanks,
cj
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
$200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy |
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a cabin
cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of them he
could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does anybody
have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 7
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| Subject: | Change of Plans, Extra Stuff |
I've made a couple of minor course changes on my project and as a result
have a couple items that I'm no longer going to need/use. Thought I'd
let folks on the list know before trying to return them or listing on
eBay. Items are new and were never installed/used. Contact me off list
if interested.
RV-10 throttle quadrant kit (Van's part #CT 10-3)
Comes with throttle quadrant, cables, all install hardware
Nutplates installed on subpanel bracket but nothing else done.
Van's price: $500; I'll let go for $400 and I'll include shipping in
the US
Matco Parking Brake (Van's part #PV-1)
Vans price: $110, AC Spruce price: $104; I'll let go for $80 and I'll
include shipping in the US
Do Not Archive
Bob #40105
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Change of Plans, Extra Stuff |
Bob,
If they following are still available, I'll take them.
Please advise.
David Talley
San Antonio, TX
On Sep 28, 2005, at 2:26 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> I=92ve made a couple of minor course changes on my project and as a
> result have a couple items that I=92m no longer going to need/use.
> Thought I=92d let folks on the list know before trying to return them
> or listing on eBay. Items are new and were never installed/used.
> Contact me off list if interested.
>
>
> RV-10 throttle quadrant kit (Van=92s part #CT 10-3)
>
> Comes with throttle quadrant, cables, all install hardware
>
> Nutplates installed on subpanel bracket but nothing else done.
>
> Van=92s price: $500; I=92ll let go for $400 and I=92ll include shipping
> in the US
>
>
> Matco Parking Brake (Van=92s part #PV-1)
>
> Vans price: $110, AC Spruce price: $104; I=92ll let go for $80 and
> I=92ll include shipping in the US
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy |
<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAAlepyTF8JxEGejHj3Vvc4SeKAAAAQAAAAhr8a0ZdIhEuhBJaOsh28+wEAAAAA@itecusa.org>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Phil Hall <phil@asibuildings.com>
Jesse,
Add me to the list. I have several of their covers over the years and am
quite
satisfied with their covers.
Phil
phil@asibuildings.com
At 12:16 PM 9/28/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
> Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>Jesse Saint
>> To: <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
>>
>> I just talked to Bruce @ Bruces Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
>> cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
>> them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
>> anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
>> $200-250?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>jesse@itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> W: 352-465-4545
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Change of Plans, Extra Stuff |
I've still got them. Contact me off list at bob.condrey 'at'
baesystems.com
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Talley
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Change of Plans, Extra Stuff
Bob,
If they following are still available, I'll take them.
Please advise.
David Talley
San Antonio, TX
On Sep 28, 2005, at 2:26 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
I've made a couple of minor course changes on my project and as a result
have a couple items that I'm no longer going to need/use. Thought I'd
let folks on the list know before trying to return them or listing on
eBay. Items are new and were never installed/used. Contact me off list
if interested.
RV-10 throttle quadrant kit (Van's part #CT 10-3)
Comes with throttle quadrant, cables, all install hardware
Nutplates installed on subpanel bracket but nothing else done.
Van's price: $500; I'll let go for $400 and I'll include shipping in
the US
Matco Parking Brake (Van's part #PV-1)
Vans price: $110, AC Spruce price: $104; I'll let go for $80 and I'll
include shipping in the US
Do Not Archive
Bob #40105
Message 11
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| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I would be interested as well. Can we get the price down to $300 even?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for
a cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making
several of them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in
doing this? Does anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover
more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 12
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| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type usually
used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut fabric, the
reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and perhaps even have
the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit. You or someone you
know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested? Probably be half the
prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
$200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 13
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| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Good suggestion on the 3/8" gap Randy. Bottom line here is do what it takes to
make it work and be ready to undo it.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Just a word of caution on the air dams. I had some help in this area. Tim James
that helped with the baffle area told me to leave at least 3/8" clearance between
the rear of the cowl and the front of the air dam. He said that any less
and getting the rubber up through that gap would be a real problem. As it worked
out I have one rivet on the air inlet for the heater has 1/2 of a rivet
left, we cut through it to maintain the clearance. It has made the removal of
the cowl much easier. That gap between the rear of the cowl and the front of
the air dam is cover completely with the rubber seal material. Hope this helps.
Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 8:41 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Thanks Jesse and others. I feel a little better that at least I'm not whacked.
Included tonight are some pictures. I'm discovering some other problems yet
on the L/H fwd air ramp. Please look at them and tell me if my mitigations
below are sound:
1. The aft center bracket on top of the engine sat too high above the screw
holes. I took a shot of the screw hole itself so you can see how different it
is from the true D4A5. I ground down about 50% of the mid section of the bracket
to make it fit. Is this section now too thin that I should fabricate another?
2. First of 3 problems on the L/H air ramp. The big hole that will have a screen
underneath (not too concerned and don't know what it is for at this point)
is too close to the fiberglass lip. One of the #30 holes is actually underneath
the glass. You're supposed to trim the metal later so that the ramp lip
is almost even with the glass lip. That would cut out this #30 hole. I can
either cut a half-moon in the glass and same on the metal side so that this #30
hole will stay. Will I have difficulty installing the bottom cowl later on?
Or I can trim the entire glass lip back to expose the #30 hole. Note a picture
of 410RV shows the air seal partially covering the big hole on Tim Olson's
website.
3. Second prob. The center of the smaller 3/4" hole on the same air ramp where
the prop gov cable will protrude through is about 1/2" inboard of the prop
gov arm from eyeballing it. Will I have a problem aligning and installing the
prop gov cable?
4. Third prob. One of my pictures shows my pinky pointing at a screw hole on
the engine case. A bracket goes there and I intend to have it contact the top
side of the air ramp. I don't think it will interfere with the center fwd
baffle later. Do you see any other problems with this?
The last picture is of the R/H air ramp. No problems here. I happened to see
that the glass lip of the bottom cowl is aligned with the rear of the ring gear.
Is this about how yours are? My glass lips are not too fat, are they?
I don't remember being told to trim them back when working on the cowls.
Pew! that's enough for one night. Thanks in advance. Guess I've been spoiled
up to this point (except the oil door took longer than the big door - exaggerated
a bit. What up with that) that things have been fitting together much nicer.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had to make a bracket
that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and found a screw that
would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a picture of our setup next
time we have the top cowl off, which may not be for another several weeks. We
are going to need our 100-hour by that time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles does not fit
the engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and trim that piece to get
it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
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From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially the
L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine case.
The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only about 1/2 of
this bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the plans call for
a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt.
It appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying
the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5
engine that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one
on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Hinges |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hilger" <ninepapa@nethere.com>
Chris
They are anodized. Check them with an ohm meter. they should read little or
no conductivity.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim Tab Hinges
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>
> Hey all -
> Does anyone know if the hinges provided to attach the trim tabs need
> priming? They look kind of like they might be anodized, but I'm not
> sure.
>
>
> Thanks,
> cj
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am trying to decide how route the wires from the tail cone to the
panel before I close up the baggage compartment floor boards and
passenger seat. And I am becoming overwhelmed with the amount of wire
and tubing that needs to be routed past the spar and into the tail cone.
Some of Randy's pictures on Tim's site:
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050316/IMGP0786.html>
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050306/IMGP0715.html>
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050306/IMGP0716.html>
They show wires going through 3 holes to get past the wing spar, but
there are only 2 holes per Vans design. How big can the holes go
(3/4")? Is any reinforcement necessary.
And then how did they get that much through the 3/4" conduit running
under the floor boards?
here <http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/2%20%2821%29.html>
The right side would be easier because there is no baggage door, and you
have a removable panel.
Anyone making the floor boards or passenger seat removable?
or any suggestions on access panels?
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved
<http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I would be very interested in the kit at 50%
Dan Lloyd 40269
_____
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type
usually used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut
fabric, the reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and
perhaps even have the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit.
You or someone you know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested?
Probably be half the prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting
$350 for a cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were
making several of them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested
in doing this? Does anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover
more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I can't answer all that you'd probably like to ask, but I can tell you
this....Randy and the people involved in the wiring really think
that conduit was too small. I would bet that Randy would tell you
that if he had to do it again, he'd have larger tubing.
I myself stuck in 1" ID stuff...if you need me to show you the
reference, just let me know. I think you'd do well to either
add larger conduit, or run some through the right side wall
(lower half), but don't short yourself space. I think the 1"
When you do the PI*radius
squared on various sizes, you can see
how fast you get much larger area as you go up in diameter.
The right side panel isn't going to be removable unless you
modify it for nutplates...which might not be a bad idea.
If you run conduit though, you should be OK.
I don't know if you saw my page, but in addition to the 2
large conduits, I ran small tubing through on a separate
run just for my strobe wires. I know you don't *need* them
separate, but I figured since I could, I would.
You might find it a chore to make the passenger seats removable,
but I think an access hole wouldn't be too bad. I considered
one, but the only thing I can think of needing access for,
in my configuration, is if I wanted to stow the aux batteries
in those spots.
You've got the biggest step done...you've become aware of what
you need to overcome. Working around it shouldn't be too bad.
I'm more worried about how I'm going to make the wires coming
out of the front of that center area look good.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> I am trying to decide how route the wires from the tail cone to the
> panel before I close up the baggage compartment floor boards and
> passenger seat. And I am becoming overwhelmed with the amount of wire
> and tubing that needs to be routed past the spar and into the tail cone.
> Some of Randy's pictures on Tim's site:
> <http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050316/IMGP0786.html>
> <http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050306/IMGP0715.html>
> <http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050306/IMGP0716.html>
>
> They show wires going through 3 holes to get past the wing spar, but
> there are only 2 holes per Vans design. How big can the holes go
> (3/4")? Is any reinforcement necessary.
>
> And then how did they get that much through the 3/4" conduit running
> under the floor boards?
> here <http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/2%20%2821%29.html>
>
> The right side would be easier because there is no baggage door, and you
> have a removable panel.
>
> Anyone making the floor boards or passenger seat removable?
> or any suggestions on access panels?
>
>
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN (reserved
> <http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/>
>
>
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