Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:57 AM - Re: vetterman exhaust (Jesse Saint)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: Fwd Engine baffle (Tim Lewis)
3. 10:41 AM - elevators (Robert G. Wright)
4. 11:55 AM - Re: elevators (Deems Davis)
5. 12:14 PM - Re: elevators (John Hasbrouck)
6. 06:19 PM - Cherry Blind Rivets (Dj Merrill)
Message 1
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| Subject: | vetterman exhaust |
Marcus,
Yes, the Vetterman exhaust actually comes with 2 mufflers, one for each
side. I don't know how it affects performance as opposed to no mufflers,
but they say that the first exhaust system they had (I don't know who made
it) had only one muffler and the Vetterman has more power than that system.
Van's retro-fitted their first -10 with the Vetterman.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: vetterman exhaust
Just to confirm, does the RV-10 exhaust system include a muffler? I
couldn't find any reference to the -10 exhaust other than it's included in
the firewall forward kit on Van's website. The other exhaust systems don't
include a muffler but I'm sure it would be nice. It seems like I remember a
note some time ago from one of the folks with a flying -10 that it was
pretty quiet.
Next question, does anyone know if there's any significant thrust loss due
to the muffler?
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian bollaert
Subject: RV10-List: vetterman exaust
I am posting this info re: the vetterman exaust system for the -10 , i
purchased the system from Vans (good system ) instructions for this system
do not come in the firewall forward kit ! , the instructions in the box are
2 hand sketches on 8 1/2 by 11 pages thats ok for someone who is familier
with doing this sort of thing , but for those that are not good instructions
and pics are invaluable . It turns out that there are 2 companies that make
this sytem Larry Vetterman & his company makes the pipes from the engine to
the exaust muffler then http://www.aircraftexhaust.net makes the muffler
back they have some good pics on there web site (the contact at the 2nd co
is Chris Stepp) .
Adjusting the brackets left &b right at the end were chalanging to say the
least !
Any comments about this from anyone else ?
Brian Bollaert
#40200
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
The C4B5 and D4A5 both use the same crank case, LW-11033. In fact, as
far as I can tell from looking at the Lycoming parts manual, the C4B5
and D4A5 are part-for-part identical. Same crank case, same crank
shaft, cam shaft, push rods, pistons and cylinders, gears, etc. The
only difference I can find in the parts catalog is that there is
apparently a configuration of the D4A5 that *can* use a different oil
dipstick (see page 1-3 of theparts catalog).
I asked Lycoming about this at OSH this year and last. Lycoming tech
support confirmed that the engines are identical, and you can run the
C4B5 at 2700 rpm and get 260 HP with no problem, despite the C4B5's data
plate rating of 2600 rpm and 250 HP.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Just curious,
>
> Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
> baffles to match the D4A5?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>>
>> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
>> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didnt
>> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
>> casing is just a little different.
>>
>> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
>> your own brackets where they dont fit. Try to get the angle as close
>> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
>> cowl since it is something you cant bend later. You also have to be
>> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>>
>> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
>> *To:* RV10
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>>
>> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
>> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
>> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
>> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
>> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
>> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
>> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
>> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
>> that has gone through this.
>>
>> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
>> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
>> out ok.
>>
>> Anh
>>
>> #141
>>
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Message 3
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I don't have a set of vise-grip #40 dimplers. Is there a way to dimple the
last two holes of the counterbalance tip rib that don't allow the squeezer
in there without having to wait for an order from Avery?
Rob
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Rob, I made my own set of vice grip dimplers. I simple drilled a hole in
each jaw of an existing pair of vice grips that was large enough to hold
the dimple set (3/16?) it turned out great, I use them frequently where
I can't get the other options to fit. The good news is that pop out the
dimple dies and you've still got a good pair of vice grips. and you can
use them for multiple sizes.
Deems Davis # 406
Empennage fairings (wings finally arrived)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> I dont have a set of vise-grip #40 dimplers. Is there a way to dimple
> the last two holes of the counterbalance tip rib that dont allow the
> squeezer in there without having to wait for an order from Avery?
>
> Rob
>
Message 5
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Rob,
You can make your own female dimple die from a piece of angle iron and your
#40 countersink. 1/8 inch thick angle works fine. Polish the edges and drill
a #40 hole close to the edge, close enough so you can fit it in the tip rib.
Then countersink that hole. Use your male die to dimple the skin with the female
in the angle iron.
John
Message 6
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| Subject: | Cherry Blind Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Hi all,
I'm trying to find a source of Cherry Blind Rivets
("Pop" Rivets) specifically AACQ-3-2 or AAC-3-2.
These are 3/32 dia by 1/8 length flush head rivets.
I've checked Aircraft Spruce, Vans, Wicks, and even a
Google search, but I can't find any aluminum flush rivets that are less
than 1/8 inch dia.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
-Dj
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