Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:16 AM - Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? (Paul Walter)
2. 04:40 AM - Re: Where to start on Emp kit (Kent Forsythe)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? (John Jessen)
4. 05:46 AM - Re: Re: Where to start on Emp kit (Larry Rosen)
5. 06:25 AM - Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing (Rick)
6. 09:00 AM - FW: Group buy on covers. (Randy DeBauw)
7. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? ()
8. 10:32 AM - Re: FW: Group buy on covers. (Randy DeBauw [mailto)
9. 04:53 PM - Re: Re: order of build (Dan Masys)
10. 05:42 PM - Re: Re: Re: order of build (Paul Walter)
11. 05:47 PM - aileron trim (Jim Wade)
12. 06:29 PM - Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing (John Hasbrouck)
13. 06:50 PM - Re: RV10 Builder in Houston ? (Patrick Thyssen)
14. 06:57 PM - Re: aileron trim (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 08:10 PM - Soundproofing Material (Larry Rosen)
16. 08:38 PM - Re: Re: Re: order of build (Rick)
17. 09:49 PM - Re: aileron trim (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
Keep up the good work
paul walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see any
instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled. I
measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between
dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the other
hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it would
be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong.
Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
Message 2
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Subject: | RE: Where to start on Emp kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Paul,
The plans/instructions for the 10 by default, go in the following order:
1. Vertical Stab
2. Rudder
3. Horizontal Stab
4. Elevators
5. Trim Tabs
6. Tailcone
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tailcone
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
Keep up the good work
paul walter
Message 3
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Subject: | flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
Follow the plans and start with the VS.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal
stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far
easier way to commence project.
With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me.
Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
Keep up the good work
paul walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert <mailto:ibspud@adelphia.net> Gardner
Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border
between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way.
On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other
reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but
maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: RE: Where to start on Emp kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Follow the sequence of the plans and start with the Vert Stab and then
rudder. The horizontal is long.
Larry
N205EN
http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
>Paul,
>
>The plans/instructions for the 10 by default, go in the following order:
>
>1. Vertical Stab
>2. Rudder
>3. Horizontal Stab
>4. Elevators
>5. Trim Tabs
>6. Tailcone
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Tailcone
>
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
>Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:16 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>
>When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
>
>With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>
>Keep up the good work
>
>
>paul walter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
You don't need to remove a whole lot of material. I drilled a wood block the size
of the outside diameter with the drill press then put the bushing into the
block, wraped it with tape and held it from rotating with a vise grip. lubed a
1/4" bit and made two passes one from the top and flipped it over to finish.
The bearing gets clamped by the bolt in the hinge bracket, the bellcrank rotates
on the outside of the bracket so a super precise reaming is not needed. Mine
is in and rigged and there was not slop in the bolt to bushing fit as a matter
of fact it is nice and snug as it goes through the bushing. Once the drill
starts it followed the bushing hole right on through. Clean the inside of the
bushing lip first with a file to get rid of any burrs prior to drilling.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 6
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|
Subject: | FW: Group buy on covers. |
Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy
________________________________
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline@tds.net]
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Group buy on covers.
Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it
patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned.
It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage
bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby
----- Original Message -----
From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb@execpc.com>
To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy@abros.com>
To: erdmannb@execpc.com
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: Group buy on covers.
The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be
involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the
10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most
don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and
what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and
give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
To Paul Walter,please be careful with the VS nose ribs do not try to fit the skin
,you need to chop a piece at front before try to cleco the skin,read the HS
instructions before .
Hugo
>
> From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 08:36:26 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
> Follow the plans and start with the VS.
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>
> I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>
> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal
> stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far
> easier way to commence project.
>
> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me.
> Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>
> Keep up the good work
>
>
> paul walter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Albert <mailto:ibspud@adelphia.net> Gardner
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>
> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
> any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
> I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border
> between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way.
> On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other
> reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but
> maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
>
> Albert Gardner 40-422
>
> Yuma, Arizona
>
>
>
Message 8
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|
Subject: | FW: Group buy on covers. |
Randy,
I have surfed your site and watched your videos. Excellent job. Do you
have a rudder trim assembly on your 10?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Group buy on covers.
Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy
________________________________
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline@tds.net]
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net>
Subject: Re: Group buy on covers.
Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it
patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned.
It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage
bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby
----- Original Message -----
From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb@execpc.com>
To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy@abros.com>
To: erdmannb@execpc.com
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: Group buy on covers.
The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be
involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the
10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most
don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and
what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and
give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Re: order of build |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Had the same observation about the -7A emp, and it is also true for the -10: the
vertical stabilizer is the easiest piece to begin with. (Which is to say the
order in which the plans read.) Just watch out that you take the sharp corner
off of the VS nose ribs so you don't get the little bump in the skin that most
unsuspecting -10 builders get.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
RV-10 elevators
> From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 06:15:38 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
> I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>
> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
>
> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>
> Keep up the good work
>
>
> paul walter
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Albert Gardner
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>
> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between
dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the
other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it
would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong.
Any help here?
>
> Albert Gardner 40-422
>
> Yuma, Arizona
>
>
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Re: order of build |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
thanks Dan.
All the little tips this site provides are invaluable.
Take care
Regards paul Walter
Horsham, Victoria, Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Re: order of build
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> Had the same observation about the -7A emp, and it is also true for
> the -10: the vertical stabilizer is the easiest piece to begin with.
> (Which is to say the order in which the plans read.) Just watch out that
> you take the sharp corner off of the VS nose ribs so you don't get the
> little bump in the skin that most unsuspecting -10 builders get.
>
> -Dan Masys
> RV-7A flying
> RV-10 elevators
>
>> From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
>> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 06:15:38 EDT
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>>
>> I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>>
>> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on
>> horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle
>> stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project.
>>
>> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help
>> me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>>
>> Keep up the good work
>>
>>
>> paul walter
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Albert Gardner
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>>
>>
>> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't
>> see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or
>> dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on
>> the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of
>> it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be
>> countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap
>> ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
>>
>> Albert Gardner 40-422
>>
>> Yuma, Arizona
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Rick,
Great idea! I'll give that a try. Thanks to all who replied
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: RV10 Builder in Houston ? |
We have two on the northwest side of Houston at David Wayne Hooks (DWH) airport
near Spring and Tomball..
My Phone is 281-655-9363
Patrick Thyssen
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com wrote:
I may be overnight at Hobby Field Monday and/or Tuesday. Any 10 builders in that
area that don't mind a visitor.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
BHM
Message 14
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|
Yep, going with the Van's aileron trim option. Don't know if it's on their web
page or not, came out the same time as OSH.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned a
few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin structure??
I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is bright, also you
can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice addition with all
that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
=09
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Soundproofing Material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am getting ready to close up the front floor boards. I know many are
using the super Soundproofing sheets from Aircraft Spruce
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/soundproof.html>. However, this
is the material that I am going to be using
<http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html>. It is B-Quiet Ultimate. A
flexible composite material with an aluminum top layer. It is 1.6mm
thick and weighs 0.35 lb/sqft.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Re: Re: order of build |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Ha!!
As unspecting RV-10 builders, we found this problem in the pioneer days of the
RV-10..... on the old Yahoo list, we were a brave lot until a "Pide Piper" named
Tim Olson led this early group of builders (minus our jester James McClow
and the new airport home owner "just build" it guy named Brian Denk) to the land
of good archives named "Matronics" There was talk of shims, reworking the
nose ribs....but in the end, all you could really do was polish out the steps
in the nose rib and hope for the best. If you could go back in time two + years
ago, myself and other builders would go to the HS on N410RV at any show it was
appearing, just to confirm that Van's did the same thing we did, and THEY
DID!!! Flat spots on the skin where the nose ribs fit. Mine are not too bad but
are still there. (Better than Van's!! ;) You can only round them ribs so
much until they get really thin.
So venture forth new builders!!!!! We will be here to answer them same questions
we used to ask each other while our airplanes were still considered metal signs
and boats in the garage to our neighbors! I love seeing everyone blazing
the same trails we did when the kits first came out. What a great past time this
is!!
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 17
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|
We have the AeroTrim kit installed for Aileron and Rudder. They are
awesome! The rudder pedals are used strictly for ground control, nothing
used in the air at all. Also, with that much fuel in the wings, you don't
want to be fighting the ailerons all the time, and it is nice to take a
little bit of torque off the auto pilot. We wouldn't have it any other way.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
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