RV10-List Digest Archive

Mon 10/03/05


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:16 AM - Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? (Paul Walter)
     2. 04:40 AM - Re: Where to start on Emp kit (Kent Forsythe)
     3. 05:37 AM - Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? (John Jessen)
     4. 05:46 AM - Re: Re: Where to start on Emp kit (Larry Rosen)
     5. 06:25 AM - Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing (Rick)
     6. 09:00 AM - FW: Group buy on covers. (Randy DeBauw)
     7. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? ()
     8. 10:32 AM - Re: FW: Group buy on covers. (Randy DeBauw [mailto)
     9. 04:53 PM - Re: Re: order of build (Dan Masys)
    10. 05:42 PM - Re: Re: Re: order of build (Paul Walter)
    11. 05:47 PM - aileron trim (Jim Wade)
    12. 06:29 PM - Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing (John Hasbrouck)
    13. 06:50 PM - Re: RV10 Builder in Houston ? (Patrick Thyssen)
    14. 06:57 PM - Re: aileron trim (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    15. 08:10 PM - Soundproofing Material (Larry Rosen)
    16. 08:38 PM - Re: Re: Re: order of build (Rick)
    17. 09:49 PM - Re: aileron trim (Jesse Saint)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:16:54 AM PST US
    From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
    Subject: Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
    I was wondering if any one can answer the following. When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project. With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. Keep up the good work paul walter ----- Original Message ----- From: Albert Gardner To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here? Albert Gardner 40-422 Yuma, Arizona


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:40:13 AM PST US
    From: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
    Subject: RE: Where to start on Emp kit
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com> Paul, The plans/instructions for the 10 by default, go in the following order: 1. Vertical Stab 2. Rudder 3. Horizontal Stab 4. Elevators 5. Trim Tabs 6. Tailcone Kent Forsythe 40338 Tailcone From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? I was wondering if any one can answer the following. When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project. With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. Keep up the good work paul walter


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:37:30 AM PST US
    From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
    Subject: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
    Follow the plans and start with the VS. John Jessen 40328 HS _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? I was wondering if any one can answer the following. When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project. With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. Keep up the good work paul walter ----- Original Message ----- From: Albert <mailto:ibspud@adelphia.net> Gardner Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here? Albert Gardner 40-422 Yuma, Arizona


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:46:19 AM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: RE: Where to start on Emp kit
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> Follow the sequence of the plans and start with the Vert Stab and then rudder. The horizontal is long. Larry N205EN http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/ Kent Forsythe wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com> > >Paul, > >The plans/instructions for the 10 by default, go in the following order: > >1. Vertical Stab >2. Rudder >3. Horizontal Stab >4. Elevators >5. Trim Tabs >6. Tailcone > >Kent Forsythe >40338 >Tailcone > > >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter >Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:16 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? > >I was wondering if any one can answer the following. > >When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project. > >With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. > >Keep up the good work > > >paul walter > > > > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:25:16 AM PST US
    From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> John, You don't need to remove a whole lot of material. I drilled a wood block the size of the outside diameter with the drill press then put the bushing into the block, wraped it with tape and held it from rotating with a vise grip. lubed a 1/4" bit and made two passes one from the top and flipped it over to finish. The bearing gets clamped by the bolt in the hinge bracket, the bellcrank rotates on the outside of the bracket so a super precise reaming is not needed. Mine is in and rigged and there was not slop in the bolt to bushing fit as a matter of fact it is nice and snug as it goes through the bushing. Once the drill starts it followed the bushing hole right on through. Clean the inside of the bushing lip first with a file to get rid of any burrs prior to drilling. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:00:27 AM PST US
    Subject: FW: Group buy on covers.
    From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
    Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy ________________________________ From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline@tds.net] Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers. ----- Original Message ----- From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net> Subject: Re: Group buy on covers. Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned. It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby ----- Original Message ----- From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb@execpc.com> To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net> Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers. ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy@abros.com> To: erdmannb@execpc.com Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM Subject: Group buy on covers. The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the 10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:23:02 AM PST US
    From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
    --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net> To Paul Walter,please be careful with the VS nose ribs do not try to fit the skin ,you need to chop a piece at front before try to cleco the skin,read the HS instructions before . Hugo > > From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> > Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 08:36:26 EDT > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? > > Follow the plans and start with the VS. > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > _____ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:16 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? > > > I was wondering if any one can answer the following. > > When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal > stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far > easier way to commence project. > > With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. > Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. > > Keep up the good work > > > paul walter > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Albert <mailto:ibspud@adelphia.net> Gardner > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM > Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? > > > I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see > any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled. > I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border > between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. > On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other > reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but > maybe I'm wrong. Any help here? > > Albert Gardner 40-422 > > Yuma, Arizona > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:32:20 AM PST US
    Subject: FW: Group buy on covers.
    Randy, I have surfed your site and watched your videos. Excellent job. Do you have a rudder trim assembly on your 10? Thank You Rick Conti office: 703-414-6141 cell: 571-215-6134 ________________________________
    From: Randy DeBauw [mailto:Randy@abros.com]
    Subject: RV10-List: FW: Group buy on covers. Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy ________________________________ From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline@tds.net] Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers. ----- Original Message ----- From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net> Subject: Re: Group buy on covers. Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned. It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby ----- Original Message ----- From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb@execpc.com> To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline@tds.net> Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers. ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy@abros.com> To: erdmannb@execpc.com Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM Subject: Group buy on covers. The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the 10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:53:50 PM PST US
    From: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Re: order of build
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net> Had the same observation about the -7A emp, and it is also true for the -10: the vertical stabilizer is the easiest piece to begin with. (Which is to say the order in which the plans read.) Just watch out that you take the sharp corner off of the VS nose ribs so you don't get the little bump in the skin that most unsuspecting -10 builders get. -Dan Masys RV-7A flying RV-10 elevators > From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au> > Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 06:15:38 EDT > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? > > I was wondering if any one can answer the following. > > When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project. > > With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. > > Keep up the good work > > > paul walter > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Albert Gardner > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM > Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? > > > I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here? > > Albert Gardner 40-422 > > Yuma, Arizona > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:42:29 PM PST US
    From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
    Subject: Re: Re: order of build
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au> thanks Dan. All the little tips this site provides are invaluable. Take care Regards paul Walter Horsham, Victoria, Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Re: order of build > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net> > > Had the same observation about the -7A emp, and it is also true for > the -10: the vertical stabilizer is the easiest piece to begin with. > (Which is to say the order in which the plans read.) Just watch out that > you take the sharp corner off of the VS nose ribs so you don't get the > little bump in the skin that most unsuspecting -10 builders get. > > -Dan Masys > RV-7A flying > RV-10 elevators > >> From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au> >> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 06:15:38 EDT >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? >> >> I was wondering if any one can answer the following. >> >> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on >> horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle >> stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project. >> >> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help >> me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off. >> >> Keep up the good work >> >> >> paul walter >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Albert Gardner >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM >> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple? >> >> >> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't >> see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or >> dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on >> the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of >> it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be >> countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap >> ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here? >> >> Albert Gardner 40-422 >> >> Yuma, Arizona >> >> > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 05:47:36 PM PST US
    From: Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com>
    Subject: aileron trim
    Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice addition with all that glass. Jim Wade 40383 ( no type this time) Slow build everything Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel. Wings ready for top skins.


    Message 12


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    Time: 06:29:30 PM PST US
    From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> Rick, Great idea! I'll give that a try. Thanks to all who replied


    Message 13


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    Time: 06:50:55 PM PST US
    From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: RV10 Builder in Houston ?
    We have two on the northwest side of Houston at David Wayne Hooks (DWH) airport near Spring and Tomball.. My Phone is 281-655-9363 Patrick Thyssen DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com wrote: I may be overnight at Hobby Field Monday and/or Tuesday. Any 10 builders in that area that don't mind a visitor. Thanks, Doug Preston BHM


    Message 14


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    Time: 06:57:24 PM PST US
    Subject: aileron trim
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Yep, going with the Van's aileron trim option. Don't know if it's on their web page or not, came out the same time as OSH. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice addition with all that glass. Jim Wade 40383 ( no type this time) Slow build everything Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel. Wings ready for top skins. =09


    Message 15


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    Time: 08:10:12 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Soundproofing Material
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I am getting ready to close up the front floor boards. I know many are using the super Soundproofing sheets from Aircraft Spruce <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/soundproof.html>. However, this is the material that I am going to be using <http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html>. It is B-Quiet Ultimate. A flexible composite material with an aluminum top layer. It is 1.6mm thick and weighs 0.35 lb/sqft. Larry Rosen 40356 N205EN (reserved)


    Message 16


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    Time: 08:38:02 PM PST US
    From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Re: order of build
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> Ha!! As unspecting RV-10 builders, we found this problem in the pioneer days of the RV-10..... on the old Yahoo list, we were a brave lot until a "Pide Piper" named Tim Olson led this early group of builders (minus our jester James McClow and the new airport home owner "just build" it guy named Brian Denk) to the land of good archives named "Matronics" There was talk of shims, reworking the nose ribs....but in the end, all you could really do was polish out the steps in the nose rib and hope for the best. If you could go back in time two + years ago, myself and other builders would go to the HS on N410RV at any show it was appearing, just to confirm that Van's did the same thing we did, and THEY DID!!! Flat spots on the skin where the nose ribs fit. Mine are not too bad but are still there. (Better than Van's!! ;) You can only round them ribs so much until they get really thin. So venture forth new builders!!!!! We will be here to answer them same questions we used to ask each other while our airplanes were still considered metal signs and boats in the garage to our neighbors! I love seeing everyone blazing the same trails we did when the kits first came out. What a great past time this is!! Rick S. 40185 Fuselage


    Message 17


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    Time: 09:49:52 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: aileron trim
    We have the AeroTrim kit installed for Aileron and Rudder. They are awesome! The rudder pedals are used strictly for ground control, nothing used in the air at all. Also, with that much fuel in the wings, you don't want to be fighting the ailerons all the time, and it is nice to take a little bit of torque off the auto pilot. We wouldn't have it any other way. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice addition with all that glass. Jim Wade 40383 ( no type this time) Slow build everything Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel. Wings ready for top skins.




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