Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:40 AM - Re: aileron trim (Jim Wade)
2. 05:54 AM - Re: Soundproofing Material (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
3. 06:13 AM - Re: aileron trim (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 06:17 AM - RV-10 propeller tests (LessDragProd@aol.com)
5. 07:37 AM - The next Reno? (slightly off topic) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 12:24 PM - Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (Dave & Brenda Emond)
7. 12:30 PM - Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (James Hein)
8. 12:59 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 01:00 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (John Jessen)
10. 01:01 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (James Ochs)
11. 01:26 PM - Re: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (SteinAir, Inc.)
12. 01:30 PM - Re: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (Werner Schneider)
13. 01:31 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (Tim Olson)
14. 01:35 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (Tim Olson)
15. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
16. 01:57 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
17. 02:09 PM - Re: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (David Talley)
18. 03:18 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (James Hein)
19. 04:18 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (David McNeill)
20. 04:28 PM - Re: aileron trim (Jim Wade)
21. 05:42 PM - Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer (Sean Stephens)
22. 06:47 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (James Ochs)
23. 07:04 PM - Re: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (John Mcmahon)
24. 07:30 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer (Chris)
25. 07:41 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
26. 08:12 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer (JOHN STARN)
27. 08:29 PM - Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
28. 08:29 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer (Rick)
29. 09:16 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer (Sean Stephens)
30. 09:55 PM - Re: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAAlepyTF8JxEGejHj3Vvc4SWKGAAAQAAAAIzKHKycI3EWEhvoMwU2JfAEAAAAA@itecusa.org>
Thanks Jesse! Did a search for Aerotrim kit, no info. Where did you get
yours? Do aileron and Rudder work together or separate? I am planning on
having my elevator and aileron trim on the hat switch on the stick.
Jim Wade
-------Original Message-------
From: Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim
We have the AeroTrim kit installed for Aileron and Rudder. They are
awesome! The rudder pedals are used strictly for ground control, nothing
used in the air at all. Also, with that much fuel in the wings, you don=92t
want to be fighting the ailerons all the time, and it is nice to take a
little bit of torque off the auto pilot. We wouldn=92t have it any other way.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Soundproofing Material |
Larry,
This is very similar to what I've been looking at using. http://www.quietcoat.com/index.html They are both viscoelastic materials similar to what our front seats are made of. Only difference is quiet coat is spray on and b-quiet is a mat with a butyl rubber adhesive and aluminum layer. The butyl adhesive will add a layer of high density to further assist in stopping the wave propagation from the skins but most of the work is done by the "smart" foam. The main job of the adhesive is to get the waves into the foam where they can be converted to heat. With the quiet coat being a spray on, it should have superior adhesion. The aluminum layer is primarily a heat shield and won't really add much other than weight. Not trying to change your mind, just trying to do a quick comparison. Either way both of these products should give equal or better performance to the heavier asphalt mats.
Let us know how it works.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing Material
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am getting ready to close up the front floor boards. I know many are using the super Soundproofing sheets from Aircraft Spruce <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/soundproof.html>. However, this is the material that I am going to be using <http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html>. It is B-Quiet Ultimate. A flexible composite material with an aluminum top layer. It is 1.6mm thick and weighs 0.35 lb/sqft.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
Message 3
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I've got the Van's kit. It is a spring bias system driven by a servo,
installation is in the wing at the inboard access panel. I considered
the Aerotrim after seeing it at OSH but this seemed to be a cleaner
installation. I'm not flying yet so can't provide feedback on
functionality.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it
mentioned a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to
the cabin structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when
the sun is bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would
be a very nice addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV-10 propeller tests |
Hi All,
Is anyone willing to test both the RV-10 MT Propeller and the RV-10 Hartzell
propeller on their flying RV-10?
Please contact me directly at _jim@lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim@lessdrag.com)
Van's Aircraft hasn't had time available with their RV-10 to test the RV-10
MT Propeller.
The Hartzell propeller Van's Aircraft sells to RV-10 builders, model number
C2YR-1BFP/F8068D, is unique to the RV-10.
In talking with Hartzell, apparently the C2YR-1BFP/F8068D propeller can only
be purchased from Van's Aircraft.
And Van's Aircraft can only sell one Hartzell propeller to each builder.
Do you see were this is going?
Van;s Aircraft and the RV-10 builders are the only ones with the RV-10
Hartzell propeller.
It looks like it is up to someone with a flying RV-10 with the RV-10
Hartzell propeller to step forward, if both propellers are to be tested on a common
airframe.
It might even be interesting to see how a standard Hartzell propeller
compares to the RV-10 Hartzell propeller.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
_jim@lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim@lessdrag.com)
(805) 795-5377
Message 5
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| Subject: | The next Reno? (slightly off topic) |
Saw this over on the Canard Aviators list (sorry, still a canard lover at heart).
http://msnbc.msn.com/id/9572408/
http://www.rocketracingleague.com/ <http://www.rocketracingleague.com/>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust each
fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I can't remember
who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
Message 7
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| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Although it's almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can
easily get by with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing I
did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used 625-8). For
those new to the list, also consider that you may have wingtip nav
antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon antenna coax, and/or the
AOA pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both
wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Van's landing lights, heated pitot,
standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and
would like suggestions from the group. I would rather not use Van's
conduit because I am not fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like
the stuff I used before on other applications, after 20 years or so it
will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the
O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble?
would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
to
and
Message 9
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| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Make the Van's landing lights alternate on/off during approach and you have
a list that is almost exactly mine. I'm going with an AOA and probably no
extra tanks, but everything else looks great. Am therefore very interested
in the responses to come.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein I've been trying to decide on
what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions from the
group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not fond of
corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on other
applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrte.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble? would
3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a 1/16"
wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a taxi
light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
I think Tim used innerduct (interduct?) which is what I am planning on
using. It's the orange stuff that they run fiber optic cable in from
the telco providers. I managed to swipe
H
H
H
H appropriate about 50'
of the stuff from a phone closet at a friends work that some unamed
telco left there a year or two ago. It's corrugated, but I imagine if
they use it for fiber it can't be all bad. I'm curious to know what you
used that fell apart in the 20 years? I have plenty of time to make a
switch in my plan since I haven't even gotten to the tailcone yet ;)
Secondly, for these conduit runs, does one just make a new hole in the
rib / bulkhead for it to pass through? any worries about structural
integrity? I think the stuff I have is around 1 - 1-1/4 inches on the OD.
Thanks,
James
#40400 elevators
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein I've been trying to decide
> on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions
> from the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not
> fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before
> on other applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
They are "skybolt" fasteners and are really quite nice to use. They aren't
cheap, but then again you get what you pay for! After using both the hinge
pins and fasteners, I'll never go back to hinge pins again.
http://www.skybolt.com
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda
Emond
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:24 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust
each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I
can't remember who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
http://www.milspecproducts.com/index.htm
I'm using them in the Glastar 140 hrs without any problems
br Werner
Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
> I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You
> adjust each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor
> plate. I can't remember who makes them, or what they are called. I
> need some help????
>
> Dave Emond
>
> #40159
> Busy on Fuse Kit
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have similar stuff, without the van's tip lights and the fuel pump.
I ran my TruTrak servo wires in the same place the pitot line is
run in the opposite wing. May as well run it there, since it's
not being used for anything else, and is closer to the servo.
I ran my strobe wires in snap bushings towards the rear of the wing.
No big reason...just because. Considering this, there is a fair
amount of space left over in my standard Van's conduit. So if
you did something similar, you wouldn't need to worry
about going anywhere near 1". I think 1" might be pushing it
anyway.
Tim
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein I've been trying to decide
> on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions from
> the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not fond of
> corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on other
> applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>
> So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
> size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the
> O.D.
>
> But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble?
> would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
>
> (I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
> 1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
>
> I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
> example)
> 1. Whelean Strobes
> 2. Duckworks HID lights
> 3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
> taxi light)
> 4. Nav lights
> 5. Heated Pitot
> 6. The Kit's stall warning system
> 7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
> 8. TruTrak roll servo
>
> If you've already done something similar, what is the wire *bundle* size?
>
> Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
>
> -Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I did use innerduct, but that was in the fuselage to go to the
tail. My runs to the wingtips seem to be great on space, given
the way I laid it out (you'll see in my other reply). I
think that people with an EFIS should for sure consider
some alternative for the front to tail run. There I think you'll
run out of space really quick. That 1" innerduct I think will
be perfect for that location....one per side.
Glad to hear you were able to "Procure" (same as "swipe" ;) )
some for yourself. I think it should last a good long time.
It lasts for years and years in commercial buildings.
As for that hole size....given the location for front to tail,
it didn't seem to structurally be very bad. I don't think
I'd like to run it to the wingtips though. I think I've even
heard something somewhere about a max size hole in the wing
ribs, and I don't think it was that big. But, I don't know
where I heard that.
Tim
James Ochs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> I think Tim used innerduct (interduct?) which is what I am planning on
> using. It's the orange stuff that they run fiber optic cable in from
> the telco providers. I managed to swipe
H
H
H
H appropriate about 50'
> of the stuff from a phone closet at a friends work that some unamed
> telco left there a year or two ago. It's corrugated, but I imagine if
> they use it for fiber it can't be all bad. I'm curious to know what you
> used that fell apart in the 20 years? I have plenty of time to make a
> switch in my plan since I haven't even gotten to the tailcone yet ;)
>
> Secondly, for these conduit runs, does one just make a new hole in the
> rib / bulkhead for it to pass through? any worries about structural
> integrity? I think the stuff I have is around 1 - 1-1/4 inches on the OD.
>
> Thanks,
> James
> #40400 elevators
>
> James Hein wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein I've been trying to decide
>> on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions
>> from the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not
>> fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before
>> on other applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
I believe Skybolt also has complete kits for the RV's.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteinAir, Inc.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
They are "skybolt" fasteners and are really quite nice to use. They aren't cheap,
but then again you get what you pay for! After using both the hinge pins
and fasteners, I'll never go back to hinge pins again.
http://www.skybolt.com
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda Emond
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:24 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
=09
=09
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust
each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I can't
remember who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
Message 16
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| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Sounds about right. I used thin wall ABS irrigation pipe somewhere around 7/8".
Should be pulling all my wires in about 3-4 weeks and I'll know if it's enough
then. For me it's:
LEFT WING
-Nav Ant
-Position lights
-strobe
-Duck HID
-pitot heat
-TT AP Servo (run separate)
-AOA tap (run separate)
-Pitot tube (run with AOA tap)
RIGHT WING
-Nav Ant
-MB antenna
-Position lights
-strobe
-Duck HID (maybe)
-Trim servo (Run separately)
Couple things to note, I ran some of those separate mainly because the existing
tooling holes in the ribs made it more convenient and I wouldn't have to tap
off the conduit. No stall warning wiring because the AOA is much more accurate
as a stall warning device so I didn't install the stall vane.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
do not archive
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Although it's almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can easily get by
with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing I did was use the next
larger size (625-7 called out, I used 625-8). For those new to the list, also
consider that you may have wingtip nav antenna coax (one or both wings), marker
beacon antenna coax, and/or the AOA pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both wingtips), Whelen
strobe/nav lights, Van's landing lights, heated pitot, standard stall warning
and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like
suggestions from the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I
am not fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on
other applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what size? This
stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble? would 3/4"
(1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a 1/16" wall,
but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: David Talley <RV10@satx.rr.com>
Try the following link (this one works):
http://www.milspecproducts.com/
On Oct 4, 2005, at 3:29 PM, Werner Schneider wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
>
> http://www.milspecproducts.com/index.htm
>
> I'm using them in the Glastar 140 hrs without any problems
>
> br Werner
>
> Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
>
>
>> I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all.
>> You adjust each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and
>> anchor plate. I can't remember who makes them, or what they are
>> called. I need some help????
>> Dave Emond
>> #40159
>> Busy on Fuse Kit
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
One thing to consider; check what happens if you have an electrical fire or smoldering
due to a short. Will the conduit give off poisonous fumes and will they
get to the cabin?
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 1:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Sounds about right. I used thin wall ABS irrigation pipe somewhere around 7/8".
Should be pulling all my wires in about 3-4 weeks and I'll know if it's enough
then. For me it's:
LEFT WING
-Nav Ant
-Position lights
-strobe
-Duck HID
-pitot heat
-TT AP Servo (run separate)
-AOA tap (run separate)
-Pitot tube (run with AOA tap)
RIGHT WING
-Nav Ant
-MB antenna
-Position lights
-strobe
-Duck HID (maybe)
-Trim servo (Run separately)
Couple things to note, I ran some of those separate mainly because the existing
tooling holes in the ribs made it more convenient and I wouldn't have to tap
off the conduit. No stall warning wiring because the AOA is much more accurate
as a stall warning device so I didn't install the stall vane.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 3:01 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Although it's almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can easily get
by with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing I did was use the next
larger size (625-7 called out, I used 625-8). For those new to the list, also
consider that you may have wingtip nav antenna coax (one or both wings), marker
beacon antenna coax, and/or the AOA pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both wingtips),
Whelen strobe/nav lights, Van's landing lights, heated pitot, standard stall warning
and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:29 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and would
like suggestions from the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because
I am not fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before
on other applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what size?
This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble? would 3/4"
(1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a 1/16" wall,
but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
Message 20
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|
Thanks Michael, will check on the Van's trim option. I still want to look at
the aerotrim also, but haven't found it yet.
Jim Wade
Mississippi
-------Original Message-------
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim
Yep, going with the Van's aileron trim option. Don't know if it's on their
web page or not, came out the same time as OSH.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Just wanted to double check with someone else that has done the tanks.
When I tighten up the drain and the finger strainer, they do not tighten
up all the way to the stop nuts. Is that what everyone else is seeing?
Thanks,
Sean #40303 (tanks finally done!!!!!! after 49 hours of yuk)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Won't you have the same problem with the insulation on the wire itself?
Short of explosion proof conduit and fittings and connections I don't
see how to avoid that particular scenario...
James
David McNeill wrote:
> One thing to consider; check what happens if you have an electrical
> fire or smoldering due to a short. Will the conduit give off poisonous
> fumes and will they get to the cabin?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <mailto:rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 04, 2005 1:57 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
>
> Sounds about right. I used thin wall ABS irrigation pipe somewhere
> around 7/8". Should be pulling all my wires in about 3-4 weeks and
> I'll know if it's enough then. For me it's:
> LEFT WING
> -Nav Ant
> -Position lights
> -strobe
> -Duck HID
> -pitot heat
> -TT AP Servo (run separate)
> -AOA tap (run separate)
> -Pitot tube (run with AOA tap)
> RIGHT WING
> -Nav Ant
> -MB antenna
> -Position lights
> -strobe
> -Duck HID (maybe)
> -Trim servo (Run separately)
> Couple things to note, I ran some of those separate mainly because
> the existing tooling holes in the ribs made it more convenient and
> I wouldn't have to tap off the conduit. No stall warning wiring
> because the AOA is much more accurate as a stall warning device so
> I didn't install the stall vane.
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Flaps
> do not archive
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 04, 2005 3:01 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
>
> Although its almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can
> easily get by with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing
> I did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used
> 625-8). For those new to the list, also consider that you may have
> wingtip nav antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon
> antenna coax, and/or the AOA pressure tap lines.
>
> My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both
> wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Vans landing lights, heated
> pitot, standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *James
> Hein
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:29 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
>
> I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to
> use, and would like suggestions from the group. I would rather not
> use Van's conduit because I am not fond of corrugated conduit and
> If it it like the stuff I used before on other applications, after
> 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>
> So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except
> what size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D.
> to get the O.D.
>
> But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into
> trouble? would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
>
> (I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which
> has a 1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
>
> I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing
> for example)
> 1. Whelean Strobes
> 2. Duckworks HID lights
> 3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
> taxi light)
> 4. Nav lights
> 5. Heated Pitot
> 6. The Kit's stall warning system
> 7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
> 8. TruTrak roll servo
>
> If you've already done something similar, what is the wire
> *bundle* size?
>
> Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
>
> -Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
Skybolt Fastners
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Brenda Emond
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust each
fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I can't remember
who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
I believe they are pipe threads.
-Chris L
40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Just wanted to double check with someone else that has done the tanks.
>
> When I tighten up the drain and the finger strainer, they do not tighten
> up all the way to the stop nuts. Is that what everyone else is seeing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303 (tanks finally done!!!!!! after 49 hours of yuk)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Bob #40105
Are you able to fit all the wires through the 625-8 snap bushings?
What size wire did you use for the services?
Someone asked what size holes can be drilled in the ribs. Vans does have a positon on this. You can see it here <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm> and select Routing of wires and tubes in the Wing. The main wire routing hole can be able to be drilled out to 3/4" and use a SB750-10 bushing wiht a 5/8" ID.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16939_1128479856_1
Although it's almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can
easily get by with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing I
did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used 625-8). For
those new to the list, also consider that you may have wingtip nav
antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon antenna coax, and/or the
AOA pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both
wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Van's landing lights, heated pitot,
standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and
would like suggestions from the group. I would rather not use Van's
conduit because I am not fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like
the stuff I used before on other applications, after 20 years or so it
will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the
O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble?
would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
to
and
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16939_1128479856_1
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<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Although its almost a necessity in
parts of the fuselage, you can easily get by with just the snap bushings in the
wings. Only thing I did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used
625-8). For those new to the list, also consider that you may have wingtip nav
antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon antenna coax, and/or the AOA
pressure tap lines.
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>My specific configuration included all of
the above (navs in both wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Vans landing
lights, heated pitot, standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Bob #40105
<span style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>
<font size3
colorblack face"Times New Roman"><span style'font-size:12.0pt;color:windowtext'>
<span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;color:windowtext;font-weight:bold'>From:<font
size2 colorblack faceTahoma><span style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;
color:windowtext'> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
Behalf Of James Hein
2:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit,
Wires, Decisions!
<span
style'font-size:12.0pt'>
<p classMsoNormal style'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size3 colorblack
face"Times New Roman"><span style'font-size:12.0pt'>I've been trying to
decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions from
the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not fond of
corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on other
applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what size?
This stuff all has 1/8 walls, so add 1/4 to the I.D. to get the
O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble? would
3/4 (1.05 O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
1/16 wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be
used as a taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire <span
style'font-weight:bold'>bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16939_1128479856_1--
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
<4343214C.50203@cox.net> <007301c5c954$bf718190$0201a8c0@toast>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Both the male & female "pipe" threads are tapered. IF it had tighten up to
the tank nut something was wrong. Either they are not matching threads (pipe
vs tube) or overtightened. Do not overtighten them. KABONG N561FS HRII.
(GBA & GWB) Do Not Archive.
PS: ANY form of pipe/thread dope/lube goes on the MALE side ONLY.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>
> I believe they are pipe threads. -Chris L
> 40072
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 8:41 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> Just wanted to double check with someone else that has done the tanks.
>>
>> When I tighten up the drain and the finger strainer, they do not tighten
>> up all the way to the stop nuts. Is that what everyone else is seeing?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sean #40303 (tanks finally done!!!!!! after 49 hours of yuk)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
All are through the bushings except for the TT roll servo which goes through the
same holes that the pitot lines uses on the other wing. I can get details of
the wire sizes tomorrow PM but they were sized to keep the voltage drop to less
than .5 volts with a min size of #22. Antennas are all RG-400. AOA lines
run through bushings with the wires.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Bob #40105
Are you able to fit all the wires through the 625-8 snap bushings?
What size wire did you use for the services?
Someone asked what size holes can be drilled in the ribs. Vans does have a positon on this. You can see it here <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm> and select Routing of wires and tubes in the Wing. The main wire routing hole can be able to be drilled out to 3/4" and use a SB750-10 bushing wiht a 5/8" ID.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Sean,
They are NPT or National Pipe Thread. This type of thread is tapered and the more
you tighten it the further and tighter it gets until you give up or it strips
out. Put some fuel lube on the male part of the threads, a little goes a long
way. Snug up the inner fitting first then while holding the inner fitting tighten
the outer. During your leak checks you can snug these fittings until any
leaks stop if you find any. I suggest for now you apply a little lube and just
hand tighten until final assembly. Then tighten all the fittings. My plan is
to put some fuel in the tanks and flush them a bit prior to connecting them
to the fuselage feeds. Then pull the drains and get rid of the excess fuel and
reinstall them. At this stage just put,em back into the holes for storage and
contamination prevention.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks all for the replies.
I did it right then. I put a bit of ez-turn on them and snugged them up
good.
Thanks again for the confirmation.
-Sean
do not archive
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Sean,
>
> They are NPT or National Pipe Thread. This type of thread is tapered and the
more you tighten it the further and tighter it gets until you give up or it strips
out. Put some fuel lube on the male part of the threads, a little goes a
long way. Snug up the inner fitting first then while holding the inner fitting
tighten the outer. During your leak checks you can snug these fittings until
any leaks stop if you find any. I suggest for now you apply a little lube and
just hand tighten until final assembly. Then tighten all the fittings. My plan
is to put some fuel in the tanks and flush them a bit prior to connecting them
to the fuselage feeds. Then pull the drains and get rid of the excess fuel and
reinstall them. At this stage just put,em back into the holes for storage and
contamination prevention.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
seems the link had changed, here directly to the item you're looking at:
http://www.milspecproducts.com/245213info.htm
and the pricing:
http://www.milspecproducts.com/c-lockprice.htm
they seem to be a tad cheaper then skybolt (but look the same)
Werner
Werner Schneider wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
>
> http://www.milspecproducts.com/index.htm
>
> I'm using them in the Glastar 140 hrs without any problems
>
> br Werner
>
> Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
>
>> I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You
>> adjust each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor
>> plate. I can't remember who makes them, or what they are called. I
>> need some help????
>>
>> Dave Emond
>>
>> #40159
>> Busy on Fuse Kit
>
>
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