Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:20 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Rick)
2. 07:52 AM - Trutrak servo install (Jay Brinkmeyer)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: Trutrak servo install (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 08:20 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Jesse Saint)
5. 12:11 PM - Re: rv10 fuel senders (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
6. 12:27 PM - Re: rv10 fuel senders (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 01:56 PM - Engine Mount Clearance issue (Tim Olson)
8. 02:04 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 02:14 PM - Engine mount material (Tim Olson)
10. 02:17 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (James Hein)
11. 02:22 PM - Re: Engine mount material (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 02:41 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (Tim Olson)
13. 03:58 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (Jim Combs)
14. 04:07 PM - Re: Engine mount material (Tim Olson)
15. 07:33 PM - Re: Engine mount material (Jim Combs)
16. 07:35 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (DejaVu)
17. 07:47 PM - Engine fittings (DejaVu)
18. 08:18 PM - Re: Engine mount material (David McNeill)
19. 08:53 PM - FW: tail LED (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: solder or crimp?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I soldered mine but then again I have a lot of experience soldering cup/wire assemblies.
The key as Linn wrote is to get the cup filled and a nice fillet of
solder that just starts into the strands and not up into the insulation. There
used to be a tool available for all you tool nuts that looked like a tweezers
clamp. It had the shape of the insulation and wires milled on the inside halves
and you would clamp it onto the wire then inset the wire into the cup and solder
away. I think the USAF called it an anti wicking tool. On the older analog
bomb racks this was how all the relay connections were made. Those racks took
a beating and I never saw too many wire failures but the method was a bunch
more work than crimping pins and inserting them into a rubber connector.
The top of the relay had all the pin cups sticking out of it, I never did figure
out why a cannon type connection was never developed to make the change a quick
and easy one. After the wires were assembled they were tied and the wires
were "potted". This involved wrapping tape around the connector to form a dam
then the potting material was poured into the dam and it filled the gap between
all the wires and sealed the connector as well as providing strain relief.
I never replace a connector because of wire failure it was because the part failed.
As in the old days I potted my connection with RTV, and I am using Dacron to tie
my wire bundles where it is not an access issue. There is something about a
hand tied and laced bundle of wires that says craftsmanship. FWIW I only soldered
my servo end of the harness, I bought crimp connectors for the fuselage end.
I would not even soldered mine but since I had the pins and the time, what
the heck.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Trutrak servo install |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
If you wait to install the servo until after the bottom skins are installed, be
sure to attach the db9 connector first as it can't be screwed on (or off) with
the servo in place.
There was no "safety wire" shown for the installation bolts. Is that a problem?
Jay
40011
Time: 10:03:44 PM PST US
From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
Rick wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
James,
All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the
supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other
dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool.
Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll
trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just
yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel.
__________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Trutrak servo install |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
In my mind not having the bolts safetied is an issue. Every other bolt in the
plane either has a locking nut, nut plate, safety wire or cotter pin - why wouldn't
you use drilled head bolts and safety wire them?
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Trutrak servo install
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
If you wait to install the servo until after the bottom skins are installed, be
sure to attach the db9 connector first as it can't be screwed on (or off) with
the servo in place.
There was no "safety wire" shown for the installation bolts. Is that a problem?
Jay
40011
Time: 10:03:44 PM PST US
From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
Rick wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
James,
All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the
supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other
dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool.
Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll
trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just
yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel.
__________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | solder or crimp?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I second this. We went with as many wiring harnesses as were available.
Stein's harness is great.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: solder or crimp??
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I took the easy route and went with Stein's harness. It's put together
very nicely. Worth the $time$ saved in my opinion.
<http://www.steinair.com/trutrak.htm>
-Sean #40303 (wing rear spars)
eagerlee wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "eagerlee" <eagerlee@comcast.net>
>
>
> How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub
> connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that
> soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat
> hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work
hardening
> vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated
> aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about
$44
> for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per
> plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because
> there will be many more D-Sub connectors.
>
> Paul Hahn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | rv10 fuel senders |
Do these probes mount on the baffle? Are they built specifically for
the 10? I looked into these awhile ago, and wondered how the mount
works out. Thoughts?
cj
wings
#40410
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders
We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable,
8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the
tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they
work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each -
not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your
favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc)
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of L Aune
Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders
--> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune <lcaune@cablelan.net>
Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the
RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site
but I can't find that site.
Message 6
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| Subject: | rv10 fuel senders |
That probe mount configuration is an industry standard, so they bolt
right on. The 8 inch/8 inch length was our spec to fit in the first
chamber of the RV-10 tank. If you were starting early enough, you could
maybe use a longer probe diagonally through the entire length of the
tank. You'd have to feed it through the structural ribs without
touching.
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders
Do these probes mount on the baffle? Are they built specifically for
the 10? I looked into these awhile ago, and wondered how the mount
works out. Thoughts?
cj
wings
#40410
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders
We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable,
8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the
tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they
work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each -
not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your
favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc)
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of L Aune
Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders
--> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune <lcaune@cablelan.net>
Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the
RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site
but I can't find that site.
RV10-List Email Forum -
bsp;
Message 7
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| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance issue |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
least a few parties that this applies to.
I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
-------
Tim,
I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer@vansaircraft.com
--------
So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance issue |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude
this?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
least a few parties that this applies to.
I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
-------
Tim,
I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer@vansaircraft.com
--------
So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Engine mount material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Does anyone know the material used in making the engine
mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier
of the tubing material would be great in case the
new tube would need to be longer.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Tim,
I have done welding, and know a few very experienced welders.
In short, Don't trust a local welder; There are too many variables in
the welding process (even the humidity or the rate that the weld cools
have a *big* effect on the quality)
I'd also do an eddy current test (if you can borrow the equipment, and
the knowledge of how to do it) to detect microscopic cracks.
But that's just me.
-Jim 40384
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
> least a few parties that this applies to.
>
> I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
> rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
> 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
> a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
>
> -------
>
> Tim,
>
> I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
> the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
> or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
> clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
>
>
> Bruce Reynolds
> brucer@vansaircraft.com
>
> --------
>
> So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
> glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
> weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Engine mount material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other
builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem
generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can
take so others can check before the mount arrives?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Does anyone know the material used in making the engine
mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier
of the tubing material would be great in case the
new tube would need to be longer.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
No word. I'd hope, but don't ask me to make any bets.
Just called a local (110 miles away) place that
does FAA certified welding (Aerospace Welding in Burnsville,
MN) They gave the same basic quote that Anh and the other
guy had. $200-250, with a likely total of $250. That's with
me doing the repainting, and them stripping only the required
areas. They were, by the way, a bit worried that without
the original jig, there could be issues if the rest of the
mount moves after they cut that tube off. This whole
thing kind of worries me. I don't really mind as much if
a door falls off the plane, but I really think it would
fly poorly if the engine fell off.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude
> this?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 3:56 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
> least a few parties that this applies to.
>
> I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
> rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
> 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
> a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
>
> -------
>
> Tim,
>
> I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
> the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
> or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
> clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
>
>
> Bruce Reynolds
> brucer@vansaircraft.com
>
> --------
>
> So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
> glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
> weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Sir Tim,
Looks like a tube could be welded in place behind the existing tube prior to cutting
out the old tubing. This would buy you the clearance and hold the alignment
during welding.
Anyway you look at it, looks liek you most likely will have to pull the engine
and the mount. YUK!
Jim C
#40192 - N312F
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
No word. I'd hope, but don't ask me to make any bets.
Just called a local (110 miles away) place that
does FAA certified welding (Aerospace Welding in Burnsville,
MN) They gave the same basic quote that Anh and the other
guy had. $200-250, with a likely total of $250. That's with
me doing the repainting, and them stripping only the required
areas. They were, by the way, a bit worried that without
the original jig, there could be issues if the rest of the
mount moves after they cut that tube off. This whole
thing kind of worries me. I don't really mind as much if
a door falls off the plane, but I really think it would
fly poorly if the engine fell off.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude
> this?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 3:56 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
> least a few parties that this applies to.
>
> I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
> rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
> 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
> a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
>
> -------
>
> Tim,
>
> I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
> the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
> or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
> clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
>
>
> Bruce Reynolds
> brucer@vansaircraft.com
>
> --------
>
> So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
> glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
> weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Latest news: Spoke to Bruce and Scott just now. They're interested
to get the mount back to see, so they'd rather have me ship it to
them so they can check it in their jig than have me fix it locally.
They do sound genuinely interested in helping.
They said Lycoming sent them a cut case half that they fit into
the jig to test the clearance, and they get more like 1/2".
They think the difference is likely in the sump casting, not the
rest of the engine. I'm going to look closely at my sump gasket,
and maybe do some measuring. I'm hoping to fedex the mount to them
Friday a.m., if i can get a box together that fast.
Will keep you posted. Hopefully if they find that it fits their
stuff normally, maybe they'll redesign that particular tube a
touch so that none of you future builders have to deal with this.
I don't mind having the problem nearly as much if I know that
it helps make things better in the end.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other
> builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem
> generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can
> take so others can check before the mount arrives?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:14 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Does anyone know the material used in making the engine
> mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier
> of the tubing material would be great in case the
> new tube would need to be longer.
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Wow, I am just now getting ready to order the finish kit. What timing! Although
I hate to see you have to go through this.
Maybe the door latches will get some additional engineering too.
Hopefully, you will get some compensation for the trouble.
Jim C
#40192 - N312F
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Latest news: Spoke to Bruce and Scott just now. They're interested
to get the mount back to see, so they'd rather have me ship it to
them so they can check it in their jig than have me fix it locally.
They do sound genuinely interested in helping.
They said Lycoming sent them a cut case half that they fit into
the jig to test the clearance, and they get more like 1/2".
They think the difference is likely in the sump casting, not the
rest of the engine. I'm going to look closely at my sump gasket,
and maybe do some measuring. I'm hoping to fedex the mount to them
Friday a.m., if i can get a box together that fast.
Will keep you posted. Hopefully if they find that it fits their
stuff normally, maybe they'll redesign that particular tube a
touch so that none of you future builders have to deal with this.
I don't mind having the problem nearly as much if I know that
it helps make things better in the end.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other
> builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem
> generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can
> take so others can check before the mount arrives?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:14 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Does anyone know the material used in making the engine
> mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier
> of the tubing material would be great in case the
> new tube would need to be longer.
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
There are two clusters on either side of this tube. I don't think the rest
of the mount will move easily. I'm glad Van's is at least responsive to
this issue now. I got no response about 2 months ago when I needed this
done.
I cut mine off smack in the middle with the engine off but the mount on the
firewall, heat each side with a torch and carefully bent them down slightly,
slipped a 1.5" 4130 barrel over the existing tube, bent them back to
horizontal, welded the barrel in place. Only the middle 6" section of this
tube needs to be lowered.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Sir Tim,
>
> Looks like a tube could be welded in place behind the existing tube prior
to cutting out the old tubing. This would buy you the clearance and hold
the alignment during welding.
>
> Anyway you look at it, looks liek you most likely will have to pull the
engine and the mount. YUK!
>
> Jim C
> #40192 - N312F
> Do Not Archive
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:40:44 -0500
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> No word. I'd hope, but don't ask me to make any bets.
> Just called a local (110 miles away) place that
> does FAA certified welding (Aerospace Welding in Burnsville,
> MN) They gave the same basic quote that Anh and the other
> guy had. $200-250, with a likely total of $250. That's with
> me doing the repainting, and them stripping only the required
> areas. They were, by the way, a bit worried that without
> the original jig, there could be issues if the rest of the
> mount moves after they cut that tube off. This whole
> thing kind of worries me. I don't really mind as much if
> a door falls off the plane, but I really think it would
> fly poorly if the engine fell off.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude
> > this?
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 3:56 PM
> > To: RV10
> > Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
> > least a few parties that this applies to.
> >
> > I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
> > rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
> > 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
> > a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
> >
> > -------
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
> > the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
> > or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
> > clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
> >
> >
> > Bruce Reynolds
> > brucer@vansaircraft.com
> >
> > --------
> >
> > So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
> > glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
> > weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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Can someone look at the picture of my C4B5 and tell me what fitting is what. In
particular, the one fwd of the brass oil temp sensor (behind the sensor in the
pic) and the fitting below the R/H mag pointing to the right.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Two things here are worthy of note. (1) Tim confirmed that his engine was
not a Lycoming IO540 but an Aerosport IO540. I would be interested to know
whether the problem is inclusive of all IO540s. (2) I would not start
cutting and pasting on the engine mount unless you have access to the
original data and have the engineering expertise to address the modified
mount. If you think a missing door will spoil your day, a failed engine
mount will likely end it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount material
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Wow, I am just now getting ready to order the finish kit. What timing!
> Although I hate to see you have to go through this.
>
> Maybe the door latches will get some additional engineering too.
>
> Hopefully, you will get some compensation for the trouble.
>
> Jim C
> #40192 - N312F
>
> Do Not Archive
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:07:29 -0500
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Latest news: Spoke to Bruce and Scott just now. They're interested
> to get the mount back to see, so they'd rather have me ship it to
> them so they can check it in their jig than have me fix it locally.
> They do sound genuinely interested in helping.
> They said Lycoming sent them a cut case half that they fit into
> the jig to test the clearance, and they get more like 1/2".
> They think the difference is likely in the sump casting, not the
> rest of the engine. I'm going to look closely at my sump gasket,
> and maybe do some measuring. I'm hoping to fedex the mount to them
> Friday a.m., if i can get a box together that fast.
>
> Will keep you posted. Hopefully if they find that it fits their
> stuff normally, maybe they'll redesign that particular tube a
> touch so that none of you future builders have to deal with this.
> I don't mind having the problem nearly as much if I know that
> it helps make things better in the end.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other
>> builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem
>> generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can
>> take so others can check before the mount arrives?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:14 PM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Does anyone know the material used in making the engine
>> mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier
>> of the tubing material would be great in case the
>> new tube would need to be longer.
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
More info on a possible forthcoming combo LED tail light/strobe
Rob Wright
_____
From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones@charter.net]
Subject: Re: tail LED
Rob,
You have my permission to repost anything of mine you like.
Since many customers don't like my "Buy the Whelen then throw away the
inside$" approach. I plan to build the whole thing along the lines of the
attached (without the xenon flash tube). One big advantage is that there is
no HV wiring and no big power supply box.
The "Other Brand" LED position lights being touted are certainly wrong
photometrically. See my website:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/aircraft_beacons_using_leds.pdf
http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/redandgreenledpositionlights.pdf
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
(508) 764-2072
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert <mailto:armywrights@adelphia.net> G. Wright
Subject: RE: tail LED
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