---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 10/13/05: 19 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 07:20 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Rick) 2. 07:52 AM - Trutrak servo install (Jay Brinkmeyer) 3. 08:18 AM - Re: Trutrak servo install (Condrey, Bob (US SSA)) 4. 08:20 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Jesse Saint) 5. 12:11 PM - Re: rv10 fuel senders (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com) 6. 12:27 PM - Re: rv10 fuel senders (Tim Dawson-Townsend) 7. 01:56 PM - Engine Mount Clearance issue (Tim Olson) 8. 02:04 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (Condrey, Bob (US SSA)) 9. 02:14 PM - Engine mount material (Tim Olson) 10. 02:17 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (James Hein) 11. 02:22 PM - Re: Engine mount material (Condrey, Bob (US SSA)) 12. 02:41 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (Tim Olson) 13. 03:58 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (Jim Combs) 14. 04:07 PM - Re: Engine mount material (Tim Olson) 15. 07:33 PM - Re: Engine mount material (Jim Combs) 16. 07:35 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue (DejaVu) 17. 07:47 PM - Engine fittings (DejaVu) 18. 08:18 PM - Re: Engine mount material (David McNeill) 19. 08:53 PM - FW: tail LED (Robert G. Wright) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:37 AM PST US From: Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: solder or crimp?? --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick I soldered mine but then again I have a lot of experience soldering cup/wire assemblies. The key as Linn wrote is to get the cup filled and a nice fillet of solder that just starts into the strands and not up into the insulation. There used to be a tool available for all you tool nuts that looked like a tweezers clamp. It had the shape of the insulation and wires milled on the inside halves and you would clamp it onto the wire then inset the wire into the cup and solder away. I think the USAF called it an anti wicking tool. On the older analog bomb racks this was how all the relay connections were made. Those racks took a beating and I never saw too many wire failures but the method was a bunch more work than crimping pins and inserting them into a rubber connector. The top of the relay had all the pin cups sticking out of it, I never did figure out why a cannon type connection was never developed to make the change a quick and easy one. After the wires were assembled they were tied and the wires were "potted". This involved wrapping tape around the connector to form a dam then the potting material was poured into the dam and it filled the gap between all the wires and sealed the connector as well as providing strain relief. I never replace a connector because of wire failure it was because the part failed. As in the old days I potted my connection with RTV, and I am using Dacron to tie my wire bundles where it is not an access issue. There is something about a hand tied and laced bundle of wires that says craftsmanship. FWIW I only soldered my servo end of the harness, I bought crimp connectors for the fuselage end. I would not even soldered mine but since I had the pins and the time, what the heck. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:31 AM PST US From: Jay Brinkmeyer Subject: RV10-List: Trutrak servo install --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer If you wait to install the servo until after the bottom skins are installed, be sure to attach the db9 connector first as it can't be screwed on (or off) with the servo in place. There was no "safety wire" shown for the installation bolts. Is that a problem? Jay 40011 Time: 10:03:44 PM PST US From: Werner Schneider Subject: Re: Wing order + components Rick wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick James, All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:18:36 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trutrak servo install From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" In my mind not having the bolts safetied is an issue. Every other bolt in the plane either has a locking nut, nut plate, safety wire or cotter pin - why wouldn't you use drilled head bolts and safety wire them? Bob -------------------------- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Trutrak servo install --> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer If you wait to install the servo until after the bottom skins are installed, be sure to attach the db9 connector first as it can't be screwed on (or off) with the servo in place. There was no "safety wire" shown for the installation bolts. Is that a problem? Jay 40011 Time: 10:03:44 PM PST US From: Werner Schneider Subject: Re: Wing order + components Rick wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick James, All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:20:27 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: solder or crimp?? --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" I second this. We went with as many wiring harnesses as were available. Stein's harness is great. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: solder or crimp?? --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I took the easy route and went with Stein's harness. It's put together very nicely. Worth the $time$ saved in my opinion. -Sean #40303 (wing rear spars) eagerlee wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "eagerlee" > > > How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub > connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that > soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat > hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening > vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated > aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44 > for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per > plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because > there will be many more D-Sub connectors. > > Paul Hahn > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 12:11:51 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders Do these probes mount on the baffle? Are they built specifically for the 10? I looked into these awhile ago, and wondered how the mount works out. Thoughts? cj wings #40410 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable, 8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each - not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc) TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of L Aune Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders --> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site but I can't find that site. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 12:27:30 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" That probe mount configuration is an industry standard, so they bolt right on. The 8 inch/8 inch length was our spec to fit in the first chamber of the RV-10 tank. If you were starting early enough, you could maybe use a longer probe diagonally through the entire length of the tank. You'd have to feed it through the structural ribs without touching. TDT ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders Do these probes mount on the baffle? Are they built specifically for the 10? I looked into these awhile ago, and wondered how the mount works out. Thoughts? cj wings #40410 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable, 8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each - not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc) TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of L Aune Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders --> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site but I can't find that site. RV10-List Email Forum - bsp; ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:56:35 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at least a few parties that this applies to. I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: ------- Tim, I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. Bruce Reynolds brucer@vansaircraft.com -------- So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:04:14 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude this? Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at least a few parties that this applies to. I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: ------- Tim, I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. Bruce Reynolds brucer@vansaircraft.com -------- So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:14:42 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Does anyone know the material used in making the engine mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier of the tubing material would be great in case the new tube would need to be longer. -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:17:53 PM PST US From: James Hein Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein Tim, I have done welding, and know a few very experienced welders. In short, Don't trust a local welder; There are too many variables in the welding process (even the humidity or the rate that the weld cools have a *big* effect on the quality) I'd also do an eddy current test (if you can borrow the equipment, and the knowledge of how to do it) to detect microscopic cracks. But that's just me. -Jim 40384 Tim Olson wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at > least a few parties that this applies to. > > I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the > rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between > 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and > a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: > > ------- > > Tim, > > I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to > the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself > or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger > clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. > > > Bruce Reynolds > brucer@vansaircraft.com > > -------- > > So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very > glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a > weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 02:22:24 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine mount material From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can take so others can check before the mount arrives? Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Does anyone know the material used in making the engine mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier of the tubing material would be great in case the new tube would need to be longer. -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:41:09 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson No word. I'd hope, but don't ask me to make any bets. Just called a local (110 miles away) place that does FAA certified welding (Aerospace Welding in Burnsville, MN) They gave the same basic quote that Anh and the other guy had. $200-250, with a likely total of $250. That's with me doing the repainting, and them stripping only the required areas. They were, by the way, a bit worried that without the original jig, there could be issues if the rest of the mount moves after they cut that tube off. This whole thing kind of worries me. I don't really mind as much if a door falls off the plane, but I really think it would fly poorly if the engine fell off. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude > this? > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 3:56 PM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at > least a few parties that this applies to. > > I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the > rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between > 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and > a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: > > ------- > > Tim, > > I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to > the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself > or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger > clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. > > > Bruce Reynolds > brucer@vansaircraft.com > > -------- > > So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very > glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a > weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 03:58:55 PM PST US From: "Jim Combs" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Sir Tim, Looks like a tube could be welded in place behind the existing tube prior to cutting out the old tubing. This would buy you the clearance and hold the alignment during welding. Anyway you look at it, looks liek you most likely will have to pull the engine and the mount. YUK! Jim C #40192 - N312F Do Not Archive ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Tim Olson --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson No word. I'd hope, but don't ask me to make any bets. Just called a local (110 miles away) place that does FAA certified welding (Aerospace Welding in Burnsville, MN) They gave the same basic quote that Anh and the other guy had. $200-250, with a likely total of $250. That's with me doing the repainting, and them stripping only the required areas. They were, by the way, a bit worried that without the original jig, there could be issues if the rest of the mount moves after they cut that tube off. This whole thing kind of worries me. I don't really mind as much if a door falls off the plane, but I really think it would fly poorly if the engine fell off. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude > this? > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 3:56 PM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at > least a few parties that this applies to. > > I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the > rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between > 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and > a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: > > ------- > > Tim, > > I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to > the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself > or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger > clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. > > > Bruce Reynolds > brucer@vansaircraft.com > > -------- > > So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very > glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a > weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:54 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount material --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Latest news: Spoke to Bruce and Scott just now. They're interested to get the mount back to see, so they'd rather have me ship it to them so they can check it in their jig than have me fix it locally. They do sound genuinely interested in helping. They said Lycoming sent them a cut case half that they fit into the jig to test the clearance, and they get more like 1/2". They think the difference is likely in the sump casting, not the rest of the engine. I'm going to look closely at my sump gasket, and maybe do some measuring. I'm hoping to fedex the mount to them Friday a.m., if i can get a box together that fast. Will keep you posted. Hopefully if they find that it fits their stuff normally, maybe they'll redesign that particular tube a touch so that none of you future builders have to deal with this. I don't mind having the problem nearly as much if I know that it helps make things better in the end. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other > builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem > generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can > take so others can check before the mount arrives? > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:14 PM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > Does anyone know the material used in making the engine > mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier > of the tubing material would be great in case the > new tube would need to be longer. > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:33:44 PM PST US From: "Jim Combs" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount material --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Wow, I am just now getting ready to order the finish kit. What timing! Although I hate to see you have to go through this. Maybe the door latches will get some additional engineering too. Hopefully, you will get some compensation for the trouble. Jim C #40192 - N312F Do Not Archive ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Tim Olson --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Latest news: Spoke to Bruce and Scott just now. They're interested to get the mount back to see, so they'd rather have me ship it to them so they can check it in their jig than have me fix it locally. They do sound genuinely interested in helping. They said Lycoming sent them a cut case half that they fit into the jig to test the clearance, and they get more like 1/2". They think the difference is likely in the sump casting, not the rest of the engine. I'm going to look closely at my sump gasket, and maybe do some measuring. I'm hoping to fedex the mount to them Friday a.m., if i can get a box together that fast. Will keep you posted. Hopefully if they find that it fits their stuff normally, maybe they'll redesign that particular tube a touch so that none of you future builders have to deal with this. I don't mind having the problem nearly as much if I know that it helps make things better in the end. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other > builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem > generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can > take so others can check before the mount arrives? > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:14 PM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > Does anyone know the material used in making the engine > mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier > of the tubing material would be great in case the > new tube would need to be longer. > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:35:52 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" There are two clusters on either side of this tube. I don't think the rest of the mount will move easily. I'm glad Van's is at least responsive to this issue now. I got no response about 2 months ago when I needed this done. I cut mine off smack in the middle with the engine off but the mount on the firewall, heat each side with a torch and carefully bent them down slightly, slipped a 1.5" 4130 barrel over the existing tube, bent them back to horizontal, welded the barrel in place. Only the middle 6" section of this tube needs to be lowered. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Combs" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" > > Sir Tim, > > Looks like a tube could be welded in place behind the existing tube prior to cutting out the old tubing. This would buy you the clearance and hold the alignment during welding. > > Anyway you look at it, looks liek you most likely will have to pull the engine and the mount. YUK! > > Jim C > #40192 - N312F > Do Not Archive > > ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > From: Tim Olson > Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 16:40:44 -0500 > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > No word. I'd hope, but don't ask me to make any bets. > Just called a local (110 miles away) place that > does FAA certified welding (Aerospace Welding in Burnsville, > MN) They gave the same basic quote that Anh and the other > guy had. $200-250, with a likely total of $250. That's with > me doing the repainting, and them stripping only the required > areas. They were, by the way, a bit worried that without > the original jig, there could be issues if the rest of the > mount moves after they cut that tube off. This whole > thing kind of worries me. I don't really mind as much if > a door falls off the plane, but I really think it would > fly poorly if the engine fell off. > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > > Any word whether they're going to change all future mounts to preclude > > this? > > > > Bob > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 3:56 PM > > To: RV10 > > Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > > I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at > > least a few parties that this applies to. > > > > I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the > > rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between > > 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and > > a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: > > > > ------- > > > > Tim, > > > > I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to > > the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself > > or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger > > clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. > > > > > > Bruce Reynolds > > brucer@vansaircraft.com > > > > -------- > > > > So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very > > glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a > > weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:47:02 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: RV10-List: Engine fittings Can someone look at the picture of my C4B5 and tell me what fitting is what. In particular, the one fwd of the brass oil temp sensor (behind the sensor in the pic) and the fitting below the R/H mag pointing to the right. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:18:27 PM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount material --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" Two things here are worthy of note. (1) Tim confirmed that his engine was not a Lycoming IO540 but an Aerosport IO540. I would be interested to know whether the problem is inclusive of all IO540s. (2) I would not start cutting and pasting on the engine mount unless you have access to the original data and have the engineering expertise to address the modified mount. If you think a missing door will spoil your day, a failed engine mount will likely end it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Combs" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mount material > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" > > Wow, I am just now getting ready to order the finish kit. What timing! > Although I hate to see you have to go through this. > > Maybe the door latches will get some additional engineering too. > > Hopefully, you will get some compensation for the trouble. > > Jim C > #40192 - N312F > > Do Not Archive > ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > From: Tim Olson > Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 18:07:29 -0500 > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > Latest news: Spoke to Bruce and Scott just now. They're interested > to get the mount back to see, so they'd rather have me ship it to > them so they can check it in their jig than have me fix it locally. > They do sound genuinely interested in helping. > They said Lycoming sent them a cut case half that they fit into > the jig to test the clearance, and they get more like 1/2". > They think the difference is likely in the sump casting, not the > rest of the engine. I'm going to look closely at my sump gasket, > and maybe do some measuring. I'm hoping to fedex the mount to them > Friday a.m., if i can get a box together that fast. > > Will keep you posted. Hopefully if they find that it fits their > stuff normally, maybe they'll redesign that particular tube a > touch so that none of you future builders have to deal with this. > I don't mind having the problem nearly as much if I know that > it helps make things better in the end. > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" >> >> >> I'm fairly certain that it's made from 4130 steel. I recall one other >> builder having a similar problem. Can we determine if it's a problem >> generic to narrow deck engines? Is there an engine measurement you can >> take so others can check before the mount arrives? >> >> Bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson >> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:14 PM >> To: RV10 >> Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount material >> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >> Does anyone know the material used in making the engine >> mount, so I can pass it on to any welders? Also, a supplier >> of the tubing material would be great in case the >> new tube would need to be longer. >> > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:53:19 PM PST US From: "Robert G. Wright" Subject: RV10-List: FW: tail LED More info on a possible forthcoming combo LED tail light/strobe Rob Wright _____ From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones@charter.net] Subject: Re: tail LED Rob, You have my permission to repost anything of mine you like. Since many customers don't like my "Buy the Whelen then throw away the inside$" approach. I plan to build the whole thing along the lines of the attached (without the xenon flash tube). One big advantage is that there is no HV wiring and no big power supply box. The "Other Brand" LED position lights being touted are certainly wrong photometrically. See my website: http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/aircraft_beacons_using_leds.pdf http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/redandgreenledpositionlights.pdf Regards, Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge MA 01550-2705 (508) 764-2072 ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert G. Wright Subject: RE: tail LED