Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:44 AM - Re: Door latch warning light (Mark Ritter)
2. 04:45 AM - Re: Door latch warning light (Mark Ritter)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Dan Masys)
4. 11:38 AM - Re: Air Box/Filter (Jesse Saint)
5. 02:51 PM - inertial belts update (David McNeill)
6. 03:13 PM - wings problems ()
7. 04:40 PM - Re: wings problems (James Hein)
8. 09:14 PM - Re: Elongated hole (James Laura Riley)
9. 09:14 PM - Re: Elongated hole (James Laura Riley)
10. 09:27 PM - Bolt direction (James Laura Riley)
11. 09:49 PM - Re: Air Box/Filter (DejaVu)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Door latch warning light |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 2
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Subject: | Door latch warning light |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 3
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Subject: | Re: solder or crimp?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
I've had soldered D-sub connectors on my TruTrak servos running for about 175 flight
hours on my RV-7A without any problem. Just use a length of heat shrink
tubing that slides over the soldered pin and the attached wire, and embed everything
in some Shoe Goo after all wires are soldered, and it is a very substantial
while flexible connection.
I did adopt a simple rule on the -7 after having a few flaky wiring connections
on things like the trim indicator and a couple of instrument backlights, and
that is to use 20 ga. wire as the minimum wire size in the plane. It is much
easier to work with and more resistant to mechanical breaks than 22 ga and higher.
Cheap insurance for durability and the weight difference is negligible.
Just my $0.02 based on one RV flying and another abuilding'.
-Dan Masys
>
> How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub
> connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that
> soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat
> hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening
> vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated
> aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44
> for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per
> plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because
> there will be many more D-Sub connectors.
>
> Paul Hahn
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Message 4
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It's pinched in place by the glass box and the top plate, I believe. That
pressure is part of making the airbox. Fun stuff!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter
The airbox content includes a base plate which is above the filter, an
airbox top plate which the base plate is screwed to. These two plates are
attached to the injector body. And the glass box itself which is attached
to the top plate via rivets on the side of the box.
How is the air filter kept in its place?
Anh
#141
Message 5
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Subject: | inertial belts update |
we have now established the hardpoints for the inertial belts for the 10. I
have enclosed two pictures and a pdf of the drawings for the belts.
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
About a month ago some body say where problems in Canada regarding spars riveting,was
any follow up .I thinks I will recive mine an a month ,and like to know
if the problem was real.
Hugo
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: wings problems |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
No idea on the story, but I took my rivet gauge and checked all my spar
rivets. They're all okay.
-Jim 40384, done priming rear spar. watching paint dry now :)
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>About a month ago some body say where problems in Canada regarding spars riveting,was
any follow up .I thinks I will recive mine an a month ,and like to know
if the problem was real.
>Hugo
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Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Elongated hole |
John,
It's not really that big of a deal. I would just put a doubler piece in
behind the elongated hole. Take some scrap and cut a piece 1.5"x.5" and
rivet it to the rib only using two flush rivets. Drill and dimple the
original hole where it should be and walla, good to go. You just have
to use a slightly longer rivet in that hole.
Jim Riley
Fuselage
Folks, I know this has been discussed before, but my search came up with
examples not quite the same. So, am asking anew.
The part is one of the nose ribs for the HS. Using the pneumatic
squeezer,
working too quickly, I punched a hole next to one that I was
trying to
dimple. It was so close to the original hole that it made a
bigger hole,
about 3/8 inch, but oblong in shape. Any suggestions as what to
do? An
oops rivets could not fill it if I were to drill it out. The
picture shows
the elongated hole in the foreground, with a correctly dimpled
hole on the
other side of the nose rib in the background.
John Jessen
40328 HS (Finally made up my mind and ordered the SB wings
today)
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Elongated hole |
There's no reason to replace that rib. It's not that big of deal, and
it can be easily patched up.
As for building the perfect plane, unless you're the almighty one, it's
not going to happen. Every RV has an error or two on them. If you're
lucky, you'll be the only one the ever notices it/them.
The real question is, do you want to be a flyer or do you want to be a
builder??? I'm lucky because I get to fly for a living. So, I kind of
like the hobby of building. But, Van's makes it very easy for the
average person to be a flyer in a solid aircraft. To each their own.
Jim Riley
Fuselage
Message 10
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I'm just getting started on the fuselage and I ran into something that
bothers me. Some of you will probably just scoff this and say that I'm
too anal, but I figured one of you would know the answer. On the aft
bulkhead that attaches to the spar, the plans calls for some of the
bolts to point aft and some of them to point forward. In other words,
if you look across the front you'll see some bolt heads and some nuts.
The convention that I was taught is that bolts should point down or aft,
if possible. I'm just wondering if it really matters which direction
the bolts point or does Van's have some grand plan that I don't know
about (most likely) and I should just stick to the plans;-)
Thanks,
Jim Riley
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Air Box/Filter |
Jesse,
After reading the non-RV10-style instructions more carefully, especially the chicken-scratch
sketches, I realized the same. Thanks! It is fun stuff.:(
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 2:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter
It's pinched in place by the glass box and the top plate, I believe. That pressure
is part of making the airbox. Fun stuff!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 1:23 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter
The airbox content includes a base plate which is above the filter, an airbox
top plate which the base plate is screwed to. These two plates are attached
to the injector body. And the glass box itself which is attached to the top
plate via rivets on the side of the box.
How is the air filter kept in its place?
Anh
#141
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