Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:03 AM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (RVFOURME@AOL.COM)
2. 01:14 AM - Re: Primer problems..... (RVFOURME@aol.com)
3. 04:40 AM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (linn walters)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Air Box/Filter (Jesse Saint)
5. 07:01 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Comcast)
6. 07:01 AM - Re: What tools are needed (Comcast)
7. 09:27 AM - Re: solder or crimp?? (Rick)
8. 12:01 PM - proseal ()
9. 12:22 PM - Re: proseal (Tim Olson)
10. 12:50 PM - Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (James Hein)
11. 01:35 PM - Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (Chris Johnston)
12. 02:33 PM - Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (James Hein)
13. 03:24 PM - Re: Multi-Purpose MFD (Chris Johnston)
14. 03:38 PM - Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (James Hein)
15. 04:02 PM - Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
16. 05:11 PM - Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (Tim Olson)
17. 08:14 PM - Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? (Richard Sipp)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
Having built two RV-4's over the past 20 years, the final cure to adhesion
problems with primer is to wash your aluminum with Hydrofluoric Acid prior to
priming. This is strong stuff. You need to wear a respirator and good gloves,
but there is nothing better for etching and cleaning the alclad aluminum just
before priming. My bottle is quite old now, but I obtained my acid from:
Sierra Chemicals in West Sacramento, Ca. Their name of the product is Aluminex
200HF. Happy painting !
Craig P.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Primer problems..... |
One followup on the hydrofluoric acid: always wear goggles and pull up the
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and other related safety handling material
before using this......it is potentially dangerous.
craig p
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
Hydroflouric? Man, that's really nasty stuff! I think you meant
phosphoric acid. 'Course, I could be wrong,
Linn
do not archive
RVFOURME@aol.com wrote:
> Having built two RV-4's over the past 20 years, the final cure to
> adhesion problems with primer is to wash your aluminum with
> Hydrofluoric Acid prior to priming. This is strong stuff. You need to
> wear a respirator and good gloves, but there is nothing better for
> etching and cleaning the alclad aluminum just before priming. My
> bottle is quite old now, but I obtained my acid from: Sierra Chemicals
> in West Sacramento, Ca. Their name of the product is Aluminex 200HF.
> Happy painting !
>
> Craig P.
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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As I understand, the instructions for the airbox are pretty much the plans
format used for building the lower-number RV's. I am glad that they got out
of that format. What a pain. The -10 plans are awesome!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter
Jesse,
After reading the non-RV10-style instructions more carefully, especially the
chicken-scratch sketches, I realized the same. Thanks! It is fun stuff.:(
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter
It's pinched in place by the glass box and the top plate, I believe. That
pressure is part of making the airbox. Fun stuff!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter
The airbox content includes a base plate which is above the filter, an
airbox top plate which the base plate is screwed to. These two plates are
attached to the injector body. And the glass box itself which is attached
to the top plate via rivets on the side of the box.
How is the air filter kept in its place?
Anh
#141
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: solder or crimp?? |
While I'm a ways away from serious wiring, you can bet I'll be soldering. I was
an auto mechanic for 12 years and between cars and trailers I've seen my share
of crimped connectors. They usually end up w/ dissimilar metals which over
time tends to deteriorate the connectivity.
----- Original Message -----
From: Millsap, Dennis
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: solder or crimp??
In the "For what it's worth department".. I'm a lurker on the list, but I couldn't
let this one go by because of all the frustrations I'm having right now
with my -6. I crimped all of the connections for my electric trim. But, lately
I've had a series of "ghosts" in the trim wiring. I've decided that it was
my faulty connections. As you all know, the wiring from the Mac Servos is tiny!
So, now I am going back through every connection and soldering everything.
I'm sure I'll get shot at about my crimping tool or some other thing, but
I haven't had an issue anywhere else. I've got about 500 hours on my RV-6A now
and this one maintenance issue has caused me more headaches than anything else.
I will be soldering most if not all of the connections on the RV-10 and I
will pay a lot of attention to strain relief.
Again, just FWIW.
Dennis W. Millsap
N464DM, RV-6A
Diceman
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: What tools are needed |
Hey Steve! Welcome to the club.
I have a plethora of tools accumulated from many years of working on cars. Of
the stuff I've used in bulding the VS and Rudder...
pneumatic squeezer (I like tools!)
DRDT-2 dimpler (did I say I like tools?)
rivet gun
bucking bar - the smallest in the set
#30 & #40 drill bits for match drilling
counter sink tool
drill press (for counter sinking the trailing edge AEX peice - I ruined one trying
to do it by hand)
assorted drill bits ( I bought two cheap sets of cobalt bits from JCWhitney) for
drilling out badly set rivets
cordless drill (get a good one w/ two batteries - beats the air drill)
clecos
cleco pliers
blue sharpie
small center punch - tapered about 6" long - I used this to line up (wiggle) the
holes during the final assembly prior to riveting.
For deburring and scuffing I have an angel die grinder and use roloc (I think that's
a trade name) scotch bright pads on it - get them at automotive paint store
As for wrenches, screw drivers, and other assorted tools, they have seldom left
my tool box for this project.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 3:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What tools are needed
I am almost ready to begin...
I have my Avery tool package, and i am supplementing to have most things i will
need. I did not have many decent shop tools.
Are there any common tools, that are used often, like wrenches, torque wrench,
measuring tools, specialty items, bench grinder, drill press, etc.... thanks
for any tips that will help me move along.
Steve
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Stephen G. Blank,DDS soon to start RV-10
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: solder or crimp?? |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Any body need proseal? 1 qt can unopened Free,I order but finish using my own stuff,Vans
will not accept returns in Proseal, expire 03-06, rather give free then
go bad in my shelf.please you pay the shipp.
Hugo
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Advice for you: Save it, you may want to use it on other things. Put
it in the freezer and it will be fine for at least a year, if not 2.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Any body need proseal? 1 qt can unopened Free,I order but finish using my own
stuff,Vans will not accept returns in Proseal, expire 03-06, rather give free
then go bad in my shelf.please you pay the shipp.
> Hugo
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
W1013A parts?
I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632" (consistent
on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously, the
bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
Any suggestions?
-Jim 40384
Message 11
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Subject: | Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey jim -
I'm right at that step too, and I didn't deburr the ID of the hole
because I wanted to test the press fit of the bearing first. After
checking, I decided only to break the edges of the hole. I think if you
smooth out the ID, it won't be a press fit any more. Not sure what the
fix is for you. BTW, did you happen to straighten out that 1013A piece?
Mine was really bent from the punching process... and someone posted
recently that a QB (I think) set of wings had trouble with the aileron
mounting due to a slightly curved W-1013A assembly.
Hope that helps
cj
#40410
wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
W1013A parts?
I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632" (consistent
on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously, the
bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
Any suggestions?
-Jim 40384
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Chris,
Yep, mine were bent as well. I straightened them as best I could
before deburring.
I am thinking of "gluing" the bearings in with proseal. I'll call Van's
later to see if that will be ok. If not, I'll order replacement parts :(
BTW, I recently used Proseal to repair an engine mount in my car; The
rubber was almost gone, no replacement could be found, so I tried it...
Man is that tough stuff! It worked!
-Jim 40384
Chris Johnston wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>Hey jim -
>I'm right at that step too, and I didn't deburr the ID of the hole
>because I wanted to test the press fit of the bearing first. After
>checking, I decided only to break the edges of the hole. I think if you
>smooth out the ID, it won't be a press fit any more. Not sure what the
>fix is for you. BTW, did you happen to straighten out that 1013A piece?
>Mine was really bent from the punching process... and someone posted
>recently that a QB (I think) set of wings had trouble with the aileron
>mounting due to a slightly curved W-1013A assembly.
>
>Hope that helps
>cj
>
>#40410
>wings
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:49 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
>W1013A parts?
>I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
>bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632" (consistent
>
>on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously, the
>bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Multi-Purpose MFD |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
Just thought I'd put this out there. I'm in the pondering stages of the
panel (who isn't?) and I got to thinking about putting a big hi-res
display in the panel at the copilot position. Possible uses include
hacking the whatever EFIS I'm using to display on the monitor, inflight
computer for this and that, movies to get the copilot to forget that she
has to pee. I found a couple places that have sunlight readable stuff.
http://www.argonautcomputer.com/displays_tflex.htm
possible challenges or showstoppers include the 10,000 foot operating
altitude, and possible lack of dim-ability for night flight. Thoughts?
cj
#40410
wings
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Chris,
You're right. I called Van's and that's one part that the hole DOES
NOT GET DEBURRED.
I made the mistake of reading "deburr the edged and holes in all parts"
to mean that hole as well. Also on page 5-2, it says that "All shear or
cut marks in aluminium must be removed". I should stop reading as much :)
They're giving me new parts, and I told them i'd pay for next day
shipping (I offered to pay for the parts, but they said that its not a
problem.)
Man, if you could get customer service like that elsewhere, the world
would be a better place :)
So, TIM: Please add this to the "Gotcha" page please!!
-Jim 40384, Guess I'll rivet the rear spar tomorrow.....
Chris Johnston wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>Hey jim -
>I'm right at that step too, and I didn't deburr the ID of the hole
>because I wanted to test the press fit of the bearing first. After
>checking, I decided only to break the edges of the hole. I think if you
>smooth out the ID, it won't be a press fit any more. Not sure what the
>fix is for you. BTW, did you happen to straighten out that 1013A piece?
>Mine was really bent from the punching process... and someone posted
>recently that a QB (I think) set of wings had trouble with the aileron
>mounting due to a slightly curved W-1013A assembly.
>
>Hope that helps
>cj
>
>#40410
>wings
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:49 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
>W1013A parts?
>I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
>bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632" (consistent
>
>on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously, the
>bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
SPAM: If the email is for spam, please report to abuse@dnsExit.com
-By mail relay service at:
http://www.dnsExit.com/Direct.sv?cmd=mailRelay
Accounts will be suspended immediately if found spamming.
Subject: | Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
Jim,
Don't bother with next day shipping, you still wouldn't get it until next week.
HA! :-D
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing bottom skin
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Chris,
You're right. I called Van's and that's one part that the hole DOES NOT GET
DEBURRED.
I made the mistake of reading "deburr the edged and holes in all parts"
to mean that hole as well. Also on page 5-2, it says that "All shear or cut marks
in aluminium must be removed". I should stop reading as much :)
They're giving me new parts, and I told them i'd pay for next day shipping (I offered
to pay for the parts, but they said that its not a
problem.)
Man, if you could get customer service like that elsewhere, the world would be
a better place :)
So, TIM: Please add this to the "Gotcha" page please!!
-Jim 40384, Guess I'll rivet the rear spar tomorrow.....
Chris Johnston wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
>--> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>Hey jim -
>I'm right at that step too, and I didn't deburr the ID of the hole
>because I wanted to test the press fit of the bearing first. After
>checking, I decided only to break the edges of the hole. I think if
>you smooth out the ID, it won't be a press fit any more. Not sure what
>the fix is for you. BTW, did you happen to straighten out that 1013A piece?
>Mine was really bent from the punching process... and someone posted
>recently that a QB (I think) set of wings had trouble with the aileron
>mounting due to a slightly curved W-1013A assembly.
>
>Hope that helps
>cj
>
>#40410
>wings
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:49 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
>W1013A parts?
>I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
>bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632"
>(consistent
>
>on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously, the
>bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Got it there now....Thanks Jim!
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> Chris,
> You're right. I called Van's and that's one part that the hole DOES
> NOT GET DEBURRED.
>
> I made the mistake of reading "deburr the edged and holes in all parts"
> to mean that hole as well. Also on page 5-2, it says that "All shear or
> cut marks in aluminium must be removed". I should stop reading as much :)
>
> They're giving me new parts, and I told them i'd pay for next day
> shipping (I offered to pay for the parts, but they said that its not a
> problem.)
>
> Man, if you could get customer service like that elsewhere, the world
> would be a better place :)
>
> So, TIM: Please add this to the "Gotcha" page please!!
>
> -Jim 40384, Guess I'll rivet the rear spar tomorrow.....
> Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
>> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>>
>> Hey jim - I'm right at that step too, and I didn't deburr the ID of
>> the hole
>> because I wanted to test the press fit of the bearing first. After
>> checking, I decided only to break the edges of the hole. I think if you
>> smooth out the ID, it won't be a press fit any more. Not sure what the
>> fix is for you. BTW, did you happen to straighten out that 1013A piece?
>> Mine was really bent from the punching process... and someone posted
>> recently that a QB (I think) set of wings had trouble with the aileron
>> mounting due to a slightly curved W-1013A assembly.
>>
>> Hope that helps
>> cj
>>
>> #40410
>> wings
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:49 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>>
>> On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
>> W1013A parts?
>> I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
>> bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632" (consistent
>>
>> on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously,
>> the bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> -Jim 40384
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
After final installation of the flaps and pivot bearings would it not be a
good idea to "stake" the bearing in place?
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey jim -
> I'm right at that step too, and I didn't deburr the ID of the hole
> because I wanted to test the press fit of the bearing first. After
> checking, I decided only to break the edges of the hole. I think if you
> smooth out the ID, it won't be a press fit any more. Not sure what the
> fix is for you. BTW, did you happen to straighten out that 1013A piece?
> Mine was really bent from the punching process... and someone posted
> recently that a QB (I think) set of wings had trouble with the aileron
> mounting due to a slightly curved W-1013A assembly.
>
> Hope that helps
> cj
>
> #40410
> wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
> Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Anyone have fit issues with bearing-com-3-5 ?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> On page 15-2, did anyone have problems fitting the bearing into the
> W1013A parts?
> I deburred the W1013A only enough to remove the shear marks, but the
> bearing does not fit. The inside of the hole measures 0.632" (consistent
>
> on all 4 parts) but the bearing is only 0.625" diameter. Obviously, the
> bearing floats in the part, which could cause wear.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
>
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