Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:37 AM - Re: Re: proseal ()
2. 07:59 AM - Re: proseal (Tim Olson)
3. 08:32 AM - Re: proseal (Kelly McMullen)
4. 08:36 AM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (RVFOURME@aol.com)
5. 10:03 AM - RV10 interial belts (David McNeill)
6. 10:19 AM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (linn walters)
7. 11:24 AM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 11:51 AM - Re: Multi-Purpose MFD (Chris Johnston [mailto)
9. 12:18 PM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (Rick)
10. 12:58 PM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (linn walters)
11. 01:13 PM - Primers not to use?? (Brian Sponcil)
12. 01:19 PM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (linn walters)
13. 01:19 PM - Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... (linn walters)
14. 01:54 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (John Jessen)
15. 01:59 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (John Jessen)
16. 02:21 PM - Looking for recommendation for Firewall insulation. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
17. 02:48 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (Rene Felker)
18. 03:22 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (Jim Combs)
19. 03:26 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (Jim Combs)
20. 03:55 PM - RV-10 Engine for Sale (Condon, Philip M.)
21. 05:31 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (Dan Masys)
22. 05:46 PM - Re: Cherry Blind Rivets (Dj Merrill)
23. 08:29 PM - Re: Primers not to use?? (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
you are wrigth I will need at the trim parts for the foam.
Thanks,hugo
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2005/10/18 Tue PM 03:22:12 EDT
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: proseal
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Advice for you: Save it, you may want to use it on other things. Put
> it in the freezer and it will be fine for at least a year, if not 2.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Any body need proseal? 1 qt can unopened Free,I order but finish using my own
stuff,Vans will not accept returns in Proseal, expire 03-06, rather give free
then go bad in my shelf.please you pay the shipp.
> > Hugo
> >
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Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You may also want it for firewall sealing, NACA vent sealing,
foam ribs, things like that. It's funny, my Beech actually
used that stuff as windshield sealant too. Handy stuff.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> you are wrigth I will need at the trim parts for the foam.
> Thanks,hugo
>
>>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>Date: 2005/10/18 Tue PM 03:22:12 EDT
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: proseal
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Advice for you: Save it, you may want to use it on other things. Put
>>it in the freezer and it will be fine for at least a year, if not 2.
>>
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>>Any body need proseal? 1 qt can unopened Free,I order but finish using my own
stuff,Vans will not accept returns in Proseal, expire 03-06, rather give free
then go bad in my shelf.please you pay the shipp.
>>>Hugo
>>>
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Message 3
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<20051019143425.KQUI14361.ibm68aec.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net>
<43565EA8.7010507@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
You will find that there are at least 4 formulations of PRC. Mooney uses
all 4...base coat, main coat, top coat, and non-hardening for access
panels and windows. The non-hardening is different from the rest, in that
the solvent is 100% isopropyl alcohol, rather than the MEK used with the
other stuff. Makes cleanup of excess on windows very easy. You wouldn't
want the stuff you are using in your tanks on the windows as it would eat
the plexi.
Tim Olson said:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> You may also want it for firewall sealing, NACA vent sealing,
> foam ribs, things like that. It's funny, my Beech actually
> used that stuff as windshield sealant too. Handy stuff.
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> you are wrigth I will need at the trim parts for the foam.
>> Thanks,hugo
>>
>>>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>Date: 2005/10/18 Tue PM 03:22:12 EDT
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: proseal
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Advice for you: Save it, you may want to use it on other things. Put
>>>it in the freezer and it will be fine for at least a year, if not 2.
>>>
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>>
>>>
>>>gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>>Any body need proseal? 1 qt can unopened Free,I order but finish using
>>>> my own stuff,Vans will not accept returns in Proseal, expire 03-06,
>>>> rather give free then go bad in my shelf.please you pay the shipp.
>>>>Hugo
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
Yes Linn, you are mistaken: I indeed do mean Hydrofluoric and hence the
warning about its use. I have used the stuff effectively and safely for 20 yrs
and my paint ain't coming off for nothing. But, you are absolutely
right-------it is nasty stuff and one MUST observe the precautions when using
it. Never
tried phosphoric acid. Does that acid work?
craig p
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV10 interial belts |
My notebook computer died the other night so with the exception of Nick Leonard
I lost the list of interested people. I now have the particulars for the belts
(pdfs, colors and costs) and procedures that we used to create the hardpoints.
If interested just email me directly at dlm46007@cox.net . If you want to consider
it later you probably ought to create the hard points now as its about
1000% easier with the lid upside down on the shop floor.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
RVFOURME@aol.com wrote:
> Yes Linn, you are mistaken: I indeed do mean Hydrofluoric and hence
> the warning about its use. I have used the stuff effectively and
> safely for 20 yrs and my paint ain't coming off for nothing. But, you
> are absolutely right-------it is nasty stuff and one MUST observe the
> precautions when using it. Never tried phosphoric acid. Does that acid
> work?
I believe that's what most of the aluminum 'brighteners' use. The label
is missing from my bottle, so I can't really check.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
> craig p
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
Yes, the primary ingredient in most aluminum brighteners is phosphoric acid. You
can get it from any paint supply store or Home Depot/Lowes stocks it as a concrete
cleaner/etcher.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer problems.....Primer problems.....
RVFOURME@aol.com wrote:
=09
Yes Linn, you are mistaken: I indeed do mean Hydrofluoric and hence the
warning about its use. I have used the stuff effectively and safely for 20 yrs
and my paint ain't coming off for nothing. But, you are absolutely right-------it
is nasty stuff and one MUST observe the precautions when using it. Never
tried phosphoric acid. Does that acid work?
I believe that's what most of the aluminum 'brighteners' use. The label is missing
from my bottle, so I can't really check.
Linn
do not archive
=09
craig p
=09
________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Multi-Purpose MFD |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
CJ,
We installed an ELO 12.1" panel mount touch screen in our RV-10 Panel.
So far, seems to be a good choice. The theory is that we have the Blue
Mountain EFIS slaved into the monitor and a laptop computer. That way,
either the co-pilot can see the normal nav displays or can watch a movie
or navigate approach plates on the laptop/touchscreen. There is a 10K
ft operating limitation on BOTH the hardrive in the laptop and the LCD
display. However, that seems to be a small price to pay so far. The
ELO touchpanel was about $150 on ebay and runs on 12v.
To dim the display, we will have to hack into the lighting power supply
and add a lighting control. However, the lighting in miniature
fluorescent so that probably won't work. We're still not clear on how
we're going to handle that one. Probably just turn it off at night for
now. If all else fails, we could put a static cling piece of tint over
the screen.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Multi-Purpose MFD
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
--> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
Just thought I'd put this out there. I'm in the pondering stages of the
panel (who isn't?) and I got to thinking about putting a big hi-res
display in the panel at the copilot position. Possible uses include
hacking the whatever EFIS I'm using to display on the monitor, inflight
computer for this and that, movies to get the copilot to forget that she
has to pee. I found a couple places that have sunlight readable stuff.
http://www.argonautcomputer.com/displays_tflex.htm
possible challenges or showstoppers include the 10,000 foot operating
altitude, and possible lack of dim-ability for night flight. Thoughts?
cj
#40410
wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
> Ha!!
>
> Nanner!! Nanner!! Linn.....you was wrong... ;)
Well, at least everyone knows it's nasty stuff. Not sure what HF does
to aluminum ....... but if I remember right, it's vapor is harmful to
the lungs. I seem to remember that it's a great skin-eater too!
> When are you coming back out to Vegas? I could really use a bucker
> this time for sure since we saw you last, albeit Bob has always
> stepped up in his usual selfless fashion.
No plans at the moment. I really enjoyed the time I spent with you
guys. You went all out for me, and I really appreciate it. How're
things looking for the spring? Is that a good time, weather-wise?
I haven't even been helping the guys here work on their -10, although
Robert (my future -10 partner and son-in-law) and I went out to take a
look. I got tasked with creating a fixture to spit the wings on. Think
I've got it figured out.
Here's a picture of what I'm doing right now. It's the beam that goes
over about 1/2 of the bifold door. There's another beam just like it on
the other side with a peak piece in the middle. Same for the clear span
in the center of the building. You can see the 'crane' I built to go in
the forklift since it didn't go high enough. I bought a 2000 Lb winch
from harbor freight to put the steel up with. It was on sale. It
wouldn't lift the beam, so I got another HF winch ..... 8000 Lb. this
time. As you can see, it worked out real good.
Linn
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuselage
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Primers not to use?? |
I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as numerous flames
documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the local auto paint stop
today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching primer. Sadly they were out
and the guy behind the counter recommended I use a rattle can of SEM 39683
self etching primer. He claims it's just as good but you don't have to futz with
the catalyst and that he's had good results with the cars he's used it on.
($12/can btw).
Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some people don't
primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous). Are there primers to
actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and aluminum is that good enough?
I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling me any ol metal primer will do, it's just
not necessary.
Opinions?
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sorry list! My reply to Rick was supposed to be offline. At least the
'do not archive' got in there!!!
Linn
--
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Primer problems.....Primer problems..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sorry list! My reply to Rick was supposed to be offline. At least the
'do not archive' got in there!!! :-)
Linn
--
Message 14
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| Subject: | Primers not to use?? |
Stick with a primer that will take your brand of paint.
John Jessen
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as
numerous flames documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the local
auto paint stop today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching primer.
Sadly they were out and the guy behind the counter recommended I use a
rattle can of SEM 39683 self etching primer. He claims it's just as good but
you don't have to futz with the catalyst and that he's had good results with
the cars he's used it on. ($12/can btw).
Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some people
don't primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous). Are there
primers to actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and aluminum is that
good enough? I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling me any ol metal primer
will do, it's just not necessary.
Opinions?
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
Message 15
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| Subject: | Primers not to use?? |
Sorry, forgot to add that I'd wait to get the PPG 1791 or go with a rattle
can primer like the SW 988. Both are used by builders who have praised
them. Unless there's an expert on this list in this area, no one can claim
ultimate knowledge of what will work best, unless you go the traditional
alodine route.
John Jessen
40328 HS
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as
numerous flames documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the local
auto paint stop today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching primer.
Sadly they were out and the guy behind the counter recommended I use a
rattle can of SEM 39683 self etching primer. He claims it's just as good but
you don't have to futz with the catalyst and that he's had good results with
the cars he's used it on. ($12/can btw).
Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some people
don't primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous). Are there
primers to actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and aluminum is that
good enough? I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling me any ol metal primer
will do, it's just not necessary.
Opinions?
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
Message 16
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| Subject: | Looking for recommendation for Firewall insulation. |
I'm looking for a recommendation for Firewall insulation. I
would like to get it bought and cut to shape before I rivet on the upper
skin section over the rudder pedals.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Message 17
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| Subject: | Primers not to use?? |
I am an expert...just not on primers. I have used both the SW 988 and the
PPG 1791. I am trying to stay with the 1791, it seems to be a little more
durable. I use the SW988 when I just want to do a small piece.
Does anyone know the shelf life of the 1791 once it has been mixed. I was
wandering if I could mix a large amount of prime and then just use a little
at a time with one of those touchup guns.
And if you are wondering what I am an expert in..fixing bad rivets, I have a
lot of practice.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
Sorry, forgot to add that I'd wait to get the PPG 1791 or go with a rattle
can primer like the SW 988. Both are used by builders who have praised
them. Unless there's an expert on this list in this area, no one can claim
ultimate knowledge of what will work best, unless you go the traditional
alodine route.
John Jessen
40328 HS
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as
numerous flames documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the local
auto paint stop today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching primer.
Sadly they were out and the guy behind the counter recommended I use a
rattle can of SEM 39683 self etching primer. He claims it's just as good but
you don't have to futz with the catalyst and that he's had good results with
the cars he's used it on. ($12/can btw).
Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some people
don't primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous). Are there
primers to actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and aluminum is that
good enough? I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling me any ol metal primer
will do, it's just not necessary.
Opinions?
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Primers not to use?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Brian,
Thats what I am using. Working well for me so far. Only comments, Keep the parts
warm before during and after spraying.
I have used both 39683 (Gray) and 39693 (Green). Can't tell any difference (Other
than color).
Jim Combs
#40192 - N312F
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Primers not to use?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Brian,
I am only paying $7.69 per can. The store I am buying from is giving my the wholesale
price.
Jim Combs
#40192 - N312F
Message 20
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| Subject: | RV-10 Engine for Sale |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
Since I have decided not to build a RV-10, my engine needs a new home.
I have a O/IO-540 E4B5/C4B5 that is a match for a RV-10. This engine
can be configured with a carb or fuel injection - everything else
internal to the engine is the same according to the Lycoming data
sheets and Vans. 21,900$ for a first run Mattituck new limits overhaul,
2800TT, 300 SMOH. I had the engine back to Mattituck for a IRAN and
test cell run prior to my purchase. All accessories, starter, Bendix
RSA fuel injector, correct carb should you want to run a low pressure
fuel system, yellow tagged (RV-10/Rocket set up) prop governor,
governor cable stand-off and paperwork. Pictures available and more
detailed log data of course..........
Please contact off list. Phil in south NJ 609-654-9587 609-272-4037
Phil Condon RV-4 N41RV & RV-8 N800RV
(reposted by request)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Primers not to use?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
For my RV-7 I used NAPA 7220 self etching primer. It comes in rattle cans and
is probably the ultimate in no hassle priming, since it dries in about ten minutes
and so priming is just a blink on the road between deburring, dimpling, and
riveting. I scuffed all parts with Scotchbrite and then cleaned them with
MEK before priming with 7220.
HOWEVER, this and essentially all of the automotive rattle can primers will cover
OK but not really bond chemically to Alclad, and subsequent MEK and some elbow
grease will wipe the primer away. Not a problem for closed surfaces like
the inside of the HS, VS, and elevators, but definitely a problem for any 'high
traffic' areas where the primer remains exposed after the plane is done.
For the RV-10 I reverted back to MEK cleaning (no Scotchbrite scuff this time) followed by AZKO sprayed with the disposable cup "zipgun" sold by Aircraft Spruce. (see http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/zipgun.php ). Works very well and except for having to have a full face respirator mask, is almost as fast as rattle can priming. The AZKO primer definitely bonds well and is very resistant to mechanical abrasion (such as that caused by a bouncing bucking bar hitting webs and flanges of various skeleton pieces).
It's not the full phosphoric acid etch followed by Alodine conversion followed
by epoxy, but seems a pretty good middle ground for durability vs. multiple tedious
steps.
(Also should say that even though the rattle can primer gets scratched or rubbed
off, it's pretty simple to just spray a little more on when needed, even after
the airplane is in regular use flying.)
YMMV,
-Dan Masys
> I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as numerous
flames documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the local auto paint stop
today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching primer. Sadly they were
out and the guy behind the counter recommended I use a rattle can of SEM 39683
self etching primer. He claims it's just as good but you don't have to futz
with the catalyst and that he's had good results with the cars he's used it on.
($12/can btw).
>
> Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some people don't
primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous). Are there primers
to actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and aluminum is that good enough?
I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling me any ol metal primer will do, it's
just not necessary.
>
> Opinions?
>
>
> -Brian
> Iowa City, IA
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Cherry Blind Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Dj Merrill wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'm trying to find a source of Cherry Blind Rivets
> ("Pop" Rivets) specifically AACQ-3-2 or AAC-3-2.
> These are 3/32 dia by 1/8 length flush head rivets.
> I've checked Aircraft Spruce, Vans, Wicks, and even a
> Google search, but I can't find any aluminum flush rivets that are less
> than 1/8 inch dia.
Hi all,
I haven't had much luck finding these rivets, unfortunately,
so I figured I would try the lists one more time.
I've tried sending a request to Aircraft Spruce, but no reply,
and I had one individual who indicated that he might be able
to get some for me, but after a couple of e-mails he hasn't replied
to any in over two weeks, so I thought perhaps it may be worth
putting out another inquiry to the group at large.
I'm specifically looking for:
AACQ-3-2 (preferred) or AAC-3-2, quant 100
AACQ-4-2 quant 100
AACQ-4-4 quant 100
I believe these are 100 degree flush blind rivets (someone
please correct me if I am wrong).
Anyone have a catalog that might carry these, or
know of a distributor that I might contact? I'm sort of
stuck on my current project until I can locate some of these...
Thanks,
-Dj
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Primers not to use?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Pot life on 1791 is 8 hours at 70F.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/p-141-dx1791.pdf
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rene Felker wrote:
> I am an expert..just not on primers. I have used both the SW 988 and
> the PPG 1791. I am trying to stay with the 1791, it seems to be a
> little more durable. I use the SW988 when I just want to do a small piece.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the shelf life of the 1791 once it has been mixed. I
> was wandering if I could mix a large amount of prime and then just use a
> little at a time with one of those touchup guns.
>
>
>
> And if you are wondering what I am an expert infixing bad rivets, I
> have a lot of practice.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Jessen
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 19, 2005 2:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
>
>
>
> Sorry, forgot to add that I'd wait to get the PPG 1791 or go with a
> rattle can primer like the SW 988. Both are used by builders who have
> praised them. Unless there's an expert on this list in this area, no
> one can claim ultimate knowledge of what will work best, unless you go
> the traditional alodine route.
>
>
>
> John Jessen
>
> 40328 HS
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian Sponcil
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:13 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Primers not to use??
>
>
>
> I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as
> numerous flames documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the local
> auto paint stop today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching
> primer. Sadly they were out and the guy behind the counter recommended I
> use a rattle can of SEM 39683 self etching primer. He claims it's just
> as good but you don't have to futz with the catalyst and that he's had
> good results with the cars he's used it on. ($12/can btw).
>
>
>
> Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some
> people don't primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous).
> Are there primers to actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and
> aluminum is that good enough? I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling me
> any ol metal primer will do, it's just not necessary.
>
>
>
> Opinions?
>
>
>
>
>
> -Brian
>
> Iowa City, IA
>
>
>
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