Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:30 AM - Re: Wing Tip Antennae (James Hein)
2. 07:22 AM - Torque Drag (Jeff Carpenter)
3. 07:29 AM - Air Box Recess (DejaVu)
4. 07:41 AM - Engine Mount Clearance update (Tim Olson)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: engine prices (Tim Olson)
6. 07:47 AM - Re: Torque Drag (Tim Olson)
7. 07:47 AM - Re: Wing Tip Antenna (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 07:52 AM - Re: Torque Drag (Jesse Saint)
9. 08:05 AM - Re: Torque Drag (James Hein)
10. 08:38 AM - Glide sloap antenna (Chris Hukill)
11. 09:01 AM - Re: Torque Drag (Jesse Saint)
12. 09:14 AM - Re: Glide sloap antenna (Tim Olson)
13. 09:22 AM - Re: Glide sloap antenna (linn walters)
14. 09:25 AM - Re: Glide sloap antenna (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 10:44 AM - Re: Glide sloap antenna (Sean Stephens)
16. 05:03 PM - Re: Wing Tip Antennae (Jack Sargeant)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Antennae |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
DJ,
You are correct in that the gain works for transmitting as well as
receiving. Antennas are antennas, no matter what application they are
used in. As Scotty once said "You cannot change the laws of physics!"
-Jim, 40384, N8VIM
Dj Merrill wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
>LessDragProd@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>Just a semantics issue. Aircraft antenna's need to be LOW gain
>>antenna's so they can transmit and receive equally well in all directions.
>>
>>IMHO, HIGH gain is a bad thing for aircraft antenna's. (Even if it is a
>>good thing for Ham operations.)
>>
>>Regards,
>>Jim Ayers
>>
>>
>
>Hi Jim,
> I'm certain I do not understand why this would be
>the case, but I'm willing to have it explained to me... :-)
>I believe the gain in an antenna works both
>ways, as in it will not only provide an
>increase in the signal being received, but it will
>also increase the signal being transmitted out.
>In other words, a 5db gain antenna should work much
>better than a 1db gain antenna, all other things
>being equal. I'm referring to omni-directional
>antennas (360 degrees), not uni-directional antennas
>(focused more in one direction than others).
>I don't see why an aircraft AM radio would be any different
>than a Ham AM radio in this context.
>
> Or am I misunderstanding how an antenna works?
>
>-Dj
>Ham operator N1JOV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Back in August we had a protracted discussion about torque values and
whether to add "torque drag" to the torque value table. I've gone
back and read those posts and don't see a definitive answer to that
question... so I'll pose it again in the context of my current dilema.
I'm currently attaching the W-823PP Aileron Bellcrank Brackets to the
spar web and W-1020 Tie-Down Bracket with AN3-5A Bolts into K1000-3
nutplates. At 25 in/lbs of torque the brackets are not at all tight
to the spar web. I've attempted to measure the drag from the
nutplate, but my wrench has a minimum setting of 25 in/lbs and I
don't think interpreting below that is going to be accurate. Any ideas?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wings
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Did some digging in the archive.... The most inovative method I found in making
the recess, other than using the provided metal recess, is to heat the glass
and push it in with a pipe.
Anh
#141
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance update |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Van's got my engine mount this week and turned it around a.s.a.p.
I have a few photos from Scott, and did a write-up here for you all.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051022/index.html
If you read the above link, you can disregard the rest of this
email. It's just a repost of the text for the archives.
Tim
They have been very very good at dealing with this issue for me. I
think that hearing it from a few people now, they determined that there
may be a potential issue for some customers and they wanted to figure it
out a.s.a.p. and come up with a correction or a plan. I sent them my
engine mount via FedEx and they got it the same week. They actually
analyzed it right away the first day they got it in, and dropped me a
note. Then, on Friday (the next day), they actually had someone come in
to perform the welding so they could ship it out that same day. (This
is extra special, since the guys who do this work 4 tens, and don't
usually work Friday). They also offered to powder coat the weld if I
wanted to wait a week or so for powder coating, but I opted to get the
mount back a.s.a.p. so they were going to try to ship it back Friday.
Great service....turn around in one day.
Here are some facts:
When they placed the engine mount in their test case, they had 3/16" to
almost 1/4" clearance. That's still not 1/2", but it's about double
what I had (.063 to .125") They feel there must be a difference in the
sumps. I gave them my sump numbers because they want to investigate
what the difference is. My numbers were:
REV G
78066
EQ-2
W
and a number that looks like Z1902
They say they aren't seeing any problem with the brand new Lycoming
engines they're selling. Their first-glance look seems to indicate that
my sump may be an off number from what they are used to seeing.
Remember that any engine you buy, Aerosport, or any other
non-factory-new, will be a rebuild that will potentially be built out of
cases and sumps from any model year or number. This could cause some of
these small variations. There is no such thing as an "Aerosport IO-540"
as one list member wrote. They are all just rebuilds of other IO-540's
that aren't factory new....and can be of various previous lineages.
It is also interesting to note that according to Van's, the cross bar in
question was determined unnecessary by engineering, but someone working
with the engine mounts decided to add it anyway to add more structure
and support. Given the solid design, I'd believe this, but when you see
the mount, I think it's still best to have the bar there. That said, I
can't picture there being hardly any stress on this particular joint. I
could picture the "fix" being done without welding....cutting the tube,
and bolting in a curved piece. Of course, a bolted joint would give
more opportunity for corrosion where the tubes meet, so I'm happy with
the welding option.
So my modded engine mount is now enroute back to me, and I should be
able to hang the engine for next weekend. It was a bit of a pain, but
at least it didn't cause a major slowdown. My advice? Get your engine
and mount hung while you're working on the canopy and fuselage. Then
you can tell if you have any issues, and can pull it immediately and
send it out for rework without slowing anything down. I am under the
impression that Van's might be willing to work with future builders on
this problem. I am not sure if they plan to make this mod part of their
general contstruction in the future. If anyone gets that answer, let me
know. They have been very good dealing with this for me though.
Thanks Scott! (and Bruce)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engine prices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ahhhh, I think I may have seen their ads in Trade-a-plane in years
past...big full page ones saying $300 over invoice. Never seen
them discussed on the list before. Thanks for adding it to the
info. stack!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mark wrote:
> Tim,
> Here's one I can answer :-) Van Bortel is located on my home field in
> Arlington, TX and they are a major seller of Lycoming & Continental
> engines. Back in the day when Cessna was the big dog, they were the
> world's top seller of Cessnas and had a HUGH sign on the front of their
> hangar that said so! Their engine division is
> http://www.factoryengines.com/ and they always advertise $300 dollars
> over factory invoice. From what I gather, they are a reputable company
> with an excellent service and parts department.
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Tim Olson <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, October 21, 2005 10:09 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: engine prices
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>
> Who's Van Bortel? What company? I'm not familiar.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
> > Just got an email from Van Bortel that they are expecting a 7%
> increase
> > on Lycoming and Continental engine prices. I guess a rising tide
> lifts
> > all =========================p; Photoshare, and much much
> ;
> ===============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't have a good idea for you on the <25 in/lbs thing, but I can
say that after watching the discussions on various lists, I've seen
posted a few times the actual FAA wording on this and you are indeed
supposed to add torque drag. On some of these things, I don't know how
you'll ever know exactly what that number is. I myself always torque
to the high end of the scale, just to hopefully keep myself in spec
and accomodate this drag. Hopefully that's high enough, but on some
fasteners it may require even more.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Back in August we had a protracted discussion about torque values and
> whether to add "torque drag" to the torque value table. I've gone back
> and read those posts and don't see a definitive answer to that
> question... so I'll pose it again in the context of my current dilema.
>
> I'm currently attaching the W-823PP Aileron Bellcrank Brackets to the
> spar web and W-1020 Tie-Down Bracket with AN3-5A Bolts into K1000-3
> nutplates. At 25 in/lbs of torque the brackets are not at all tight to
> the spar web. I've attempted to measure the drag from the nutplate,
> but my wrench has a minimum setting of 25 in/lbs and I don't think
> interpreting below that is going to be accurate. Any ideas?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Wings
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
SPAM: If the email is for spam, please report to abuse@dnsExit.com
-By mail relay service at:
http://www.dnsExit.com/Direct.sv?cmd=mailRelay
Accounts will be suspended immediately if found spamming.
| Subject: | Wing Tip Antenna |
I know I have seen discussions of it somewhere but I can't remember where. For
the MB almost anything will work so I'm not too concerned. Some people just
connect a coat hanger out the back. Jim Weir suggests a copper foil strip 34.3
inches long, but a piece of coax with that amount of the center conductor exposed
should also work. This glassed to the bottom of the cowl, with a short
piece of coax to act as a connector in the case of the foil, should work just
fine. It should have a fore/aft orientation, horizontally polarized, with the
coax shield flush cut.
Because MB's are pretty much low altitude (1000ft) nowadays, I believe that this
should be more than sufficient. The plastic airplane guys have done it like
this for years. If I discover that for some really strange reason this doesn't
work, putting in an alternative will be easy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Bottom wing skins (suck)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Tip Antenna
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I am also looking for other option besides the wingtip to mount my Archer MB Antenna.
You know of any pictures out there of a lower cowl installation?
-Sean #40303
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I have no idea how much room we have in the cowls as I'm not there
> yet, but I know some people have glassed the stripped coax MB antenna
> into the lower cowl. I plan on investigating that option. Anyone
> that has fitted their cowls have any input on this?
>
> Michael
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey,
> Bob (US SSA)
> Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 12:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing Tip Antennae
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> --> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Just to reinforce: I talked personally with Bob Archer about
> installation of the nav antenna in the RV-10 wingtip because I was
> concerned about the adhesive backed foil from the Van's landing light
> causing an issue. Bob A. reinforced the importance of mounting as far
> forward as possible, and very close but not touching the foil from the
> light. He also emphasized the importance of routing the wires along
> the antenna in the provided nylon loops.
>
> I also installed a MB antenna per his directions. If you do that
> you'll need to mount the nav antenna on the top side of the wingtip
> instead of the bottom where it would normally go. There are two
> models of his antennae - one for left and another for right side
> mounting (assuming they're going on the bottom surface of the
> wingtip). If you mount on the top surface you'll need the opposite
> side antenna since they're mirror images. In other words, If the left
> antenna is going to be on the bottom surface and right antenna will be
> on the top, order two "left" versions.
>
> His directions for the MB antenna are to simply remove 53" of shield
> from a length of antenna coax and attach it to the bottom surface of
> the wingtip, parallel to the edge of the wing and 1" from the metal
> wing surface. I used a few dabs of epoxy to secure mine.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
> Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 12:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Tip Antennae
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
> --> <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Jim,
>
> Great set of pointers!
>
> If I can summarize your words:
>
> Do:
>
> - Mount the Sportcraft NAV antenna as far forward in the wingtip as
> possible. (A common mistake is to mount the antenna near the center
> of the wingtip.)
>
> - The base of the Sportcraft NAV antenna should be attached to the
> wing skin (either the top, or the bottom) with as many fasteners as
> possible.
>
> - Include the antenna base as part of the wingtip nutplate attachment.
>
> - Use at least four good ground contacts with these fasteners from the
> antenna base to the wing skin (Five or more is better).
>
> - After painting, clean the paint out of the wing skin dimple so the
> wingtip screw is against bare metal.
>
> - Route the wires for the NAV light, strobe light and landing light
> along the front edge of the Sportcraft NAV antenna in the Adel clamps
> provided (This actually improves the operation of the Sportcraft NAV
> antenna).
>
> Don't:
>
> - Do not route any wires over the top of the antenna element.
>
>
> Question:
>
> - If your install a Sportcraft wingtip NAV antenna and the Sportcraft
> Marker Beacon antenna in the same wingtip, the Marker Beacon antenna
> ONLY provides about a 10 mile range when connected to the NAV receiver.
> (Is this a good thing or a bad thing?)
>
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192 - N312F
>
>
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> more:
> bsp;
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Jeff,
I think we usually set the torque on AN3 bolts at 40in/lb when going into a
nut plate. That seemed to let them tighten down a little bit. There was
nothing scientific about this number, it just seemed to let the bolt tighten
down about as much as with a nyloc nut at 25in/lb. The other option would
be tapping the nut plate, which we did on some of the smaller ones that
would not allow us to get a bolt in without messing up the head, but I
wouldn't recommend doing that on something that is important. A tunnel
cover inside the cockpit is one thing, but an aileron bell crank it
completely different.
This is just my $.02, but we have over 100 hours on our -10 and the ailerons
are still working (knock on wood).
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: RV10-List: Torque Drag
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Back in August we had a protracted discussion about torque values and
whether to add "torque drag" to the torque value table. I've gone
back and read those posts and don't see a definitive answer to that
question... so I'll pose it again in the context of my current dilema.
I'm currently attaching the W-823PP Aileron Bellcrank Brackets to the
spar web and W-1020 Tie-Down Bracket with AN3-5A Bolts into K1000-3
nutplates. At 25 in/lbs of torque the brackets are not at all tight
to the spar web. I've attempted to measure the drag from the
nutplate, but my wrench has a minimum setting of 25 in/lbs and I
don't think interpreting below that is going to be accurate. Any ideas?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wings
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
No! Do not tap any nutplates! The nutplate is slightly oval for a
reason, which is to act as a locknut. By tapping the nutplate, you make
the hole round removing any locking properties of the nutplate. You
wouldn't put a regular nut where the plans call for a nyloc nut, so why
would you want to destroy the locking properties of the nutplate?
Sorry to be so harsh, but i've asked this question to an experienced A&P
and he was very adamant about not tapping nutplates.
-Jim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>Jeff,
>
>I think we usually set the torque on AN3 bolts at 40in/lb when going into a
>nut plate. That seemed to let them tighten down a little bit. There was
>nothing scientific about this number, it just seemed to let the bolt tighten
>down about as much as with a nyloc nut at 25in/lb. The other option would
>be tapping the nut plate, which we did on some of the smaller ones that
>would not allow us to get a bolt in without messing up the head, but I
>wouldn't recommend doing that on something that is important. A tunnel
>cover inside the cockpit is one thing, but an aileron bell crank it
>completely different.
>
>This is just my $.02, but we have over 100 hours on our -10 and the ailerons
>are still working (knock on wood).
>
>GOD BLESS!
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
>Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 10:22 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Torque Drag
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
>Back in August we had a protracted discussion about torque values and
>whether to add "torque drag" to the torque value table. I've gone
>back and read those posts and don't see a definitive answer to that
>question... so I'll pose it again in the context of my current dilema.
>
>I'm currently attaching the W-823PP Aileron Bellcrank Brackets to the
>spar web and W-1020 Tie-Down Bracket with AN3-5A Bolts into K1000-3
>nutplates. At 25 in/lbs of torque the brackets are not at all tight
>to the spar web. I've attempted to measure the drag from the
>nutplate, but my wrench has a minimum setting of 25 in/lbs and I
>don't think interpreting below that is going to be accurate. Any ideas?
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40304
>Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Glide sloap antenna |
I plan on putting the Nav antennas in my wing tips, but what do you use for the
glide slope?
Also, there are no links for the pictures that are referred to in many messages,
what do I need to do to receive those?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
finished HS
starting Tail cone (elevators shall wait)
flying RV8 http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I agree completely, in the case of bolts in question, which is why I said,
"...but I wouldn't recommend..." In non-important places this can be very
helpful, however, like on the rear passenger side panel covers, where the
screws are very hard to get at to put in or take out, especially with the
extra torque required by the nutplates. Anything important or outside the
airplane should obviously not be tapped.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Torque Drag
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
No! Do not tap any nutplates! The nutplate is slightly oval for a
reason, which is to act as a locknut. By tapping the nutplate, you make
the hole round removing any locking properties of the nutplate. You
wouldn't put a regular nut where the plans call for a nyloc nut, so why
would you want to destroy the locking properties of the nutplate?
Sorry to be so harsh, but i've asked this question to an experienced A&P
and he was very adamant about not tapping nutplates.
-Jim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>Jeff,
>
>I think we usually set the torque on AN3 bolts at 40in/lb when going into a
>nut plate. That seemed to let them tighten down a little bit. There was
>nothing scientific about this number, it just seemed to let the bolt
tighten
>down about as much as with a nyloc nut at 25in/lb. The other option would
>be tapping the nut plate, which we did on some of the smaller ones that
>would not allow us to get a bolt in without messing up the head, but I
>wouldn't recommend doing that on something that is important. A tunnel
>cover inside the cockpit is one thing, but an aileron bell crank it
>completely different.
>
>This is just my $.02, but we have over 100 hours on our -10 and the
ailerons
>are still working (knock on wood).
>
>GOD BLESS!
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
>Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 10:22 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Torque Drag
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
>Back in August we had a protracted discussion about torque values and
>whether to add "torque drag" to the torque value table. I've gone
>back and read those posts and don't see a definitive answer to that
>question... so I'll pose it again in the context of my current dilema.
>
>I'm currently attaching the W-823PP Aileron Bellcrank Brackets to the
>spar web and W-1020 Tie-Down Bracket with AN3-5A Bolts into K1000-3
>nutplates. At 25 in/lbs of torque the brackets are not at all tight
>to the spar web. I've attempted to measure the drag from the
>nutplate, but my wrench has a minimum setting of 25 in/lbs and I
>don't think interpreting below that is going to be accurate. Any ideas?
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40304
>Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glide sloap antenna |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You only get the photos if you get the individual emails. The digest
readers lose out on that one. If you're an individual email reader
and aren't getting them, then it's probably something your email
reader is doing.
Tim
do not archive
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I plan on putting the Nav antennas in my wing tips, but what do you use
> for the glide slope?
> Also, there are no links for the pictures that are referred to in many
> messages, what do I need to do to receive those?
> Thanks
> Chris Hukill
> finished HS
> starting Tail cone (elevators shall wait)
> flying RV8 http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glide sloap antenna |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Also, I'vd found that photo's go through if they're inserted into the
email rather than sent as an attachment.
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> You only get the photos if you get the individual emails. The digest
> readers lose out on that one. If you're an individual email reader
> and aren't getting them, then it's probably something your email
> reader is doing.
> Tim
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Chris Hukill wrote:
>
>> I plan on putting the Nav antennas in my wing tips, but what do you
>> use for the glide slope?
>> Also, there are no links for the pictures that are referred to in
>> many messages, what do I need to do to receive those?
>> Thanks
>> Chris Hukill
>> finished HS
>> starting Tail cone (elevators shall wait)
>> flying RV8 http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/
>
>
--
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
SPAM: If the email is for spam, please report to abuse@dnsExit.com
-By mail relay service at:
http://www.dnsExit.com/Direct.sv?cmd=mailRelay
Accounts will be suspended immediately if found spamming.
| Subject: | Glide sloap antenna |
You split the signal from the Nav antennas. Some nav heads already have the splitter
built in. I believe the SL30 is one example.
Michael
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: Glide sloap antenna
I plan on putting the Nav antennas in my wing tips, but what do you use for the
glide slope?
Also, there are no links for the pictures that are referred to in many messages,
what do I need to do to receive those?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
finished HS
starting Tail cone (elevators shall wait)
flying RV8 http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glide sloap antenna |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I plan on diplexing the GS off of my Nav2 antenna. Check out the
following page...
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/com_couplers3.php>
-Sean #40303
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> You split the signal from the Nav antennas. Some nav heads already
> have the splitter built in. I believe the SL30 is one example.
>
> Michael
> do not archive
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris Hukill
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 22, 2005 10:47 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Glide sloap antenna
>
> I plan on putting the Nav antennas in my wing tips, but what do you
> use for the glide slope?
> Also, there are no links for the pictures that are referred to in many
> messages, what do I need to do to receive those?
> Thanks
> Chris Hukill
> finished HS
> starting Tail cone (elevators shall wait)
> flying RV8 http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wing Tip Antennae |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv@amsat.org>
I can't let this one slide. Yes, gain is reciprocal: If an antenna has
gain for transmitting it will have the same gain for receiving. But --
Antennas can not increase the total signal transmitted nor can they increase
the recieved signal from all directions. Antenna gain is achieved by
focusing the signal in a manner simular to the way the reflector in a
flashlight focus the light in one area. Antennas which exibit gain in a 360
degree circle do it only at one elevation angle. If you think in terms of a
conventional antenna on or near the surface of the earth the omnidirectional
gain exibited is achieved by taking power which would be directed vertically
and redirecting it toward the horizon. (For terrestial communications this
is good, but not necessarily so for airborne work.) I could go on and on,
but hopefully you get the message.
Sarge - K5wiv
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Tip Antennae
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
DJ,
You are correct in that the gain works for transmitting as well as
receiving. Antennas are antennas, no matter what application they are
used in. As Scotty once said "You cannot change the laws of physics!"
-Jim, 40384, N8VIM
Dj Merrill wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
>LessDragProd@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>Just a semantics issue. Aircraft antenna's need to be LOW gain
>>antenna's so they can transmit and receive equally well in all directions.
>>
>>IMHO, HIGH gain is a bad thing for aircraft antenna's. (Even if it is a
>>good thing for Ham operations.)
>>
>>Regards,
>>Jim Ayers
>>
>>
>
>Hi Jim,
> I'm certain I do not understand why this would be
>the case, but I'm willing to have it explained to me... :-)
>I believe the gain in an antenna works both
>ways, as in it will not only provide an
>increase in the signal being received, but it will
>also increase the signal being transmitted out.
>In other words, a 5db gain antenna should work much
>better than a 1db gain antenna, all other things
>being equal. I'm referring to omni-directional
>antennas (360 degrees), not uni-directional antennas
>(focused more in one direction than others).
>I don't see why an aircraft AM radio would be any different
>than a Ham AM radio in this context.
>
> Or am I misunderstanding how an antenna works?
>
>-Dj
>Ham operator N1JOV
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|