Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:16 AM - Re: Wing Tip Antennae - Marker Beacon (Larry Rosen)
2. 10:13 AM - Re: Lycoming O/IO-540 For sale (Robert E. Lynch)
3. 10:41 AM - back rivet plate rust (James Ochs)
4. 11:00 AM - Re: Cherry Blind Rivets (Dj Merrill)
5. 11:10 AM - Re: back rivet plate rust (Sean Stephens)
6. 11:13 AM - Re: back rivet plate rust (Sean Blair)
7. 12:30 PM - Re: back rivet plate rust (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
8. 02:32 PM - Re: Wing Tip Antennae - Marker Beacon (LessDragProd@aol.com)
9. 05:12 PM - Re: back rivet plate rust (linn walters)
10. 05:19 PM - Approximate hours (Ed Godfrey)
11. 05:54 PM - Re: back rivet plate rust (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 07:20 PM - Re: back rivet plate rust (Robert G. Wright)
13. 08:19 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance update (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
14. 09:07 PM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance update (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Antennae - Marker Beacon |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Dan Checkoway has some information on his wing tip marker beacon
installation
here <http://www.rvproject.com/20040128.html> and
here <http://www.rvproject.com/20040201.html>
From Scott's photos it looks like he is installing a similar
arrangement the photo is here
<http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/124475/4/8847036>
I am planning on having the Archer style nav antenna in each wing tip.
Where does the marker beacon antenna go (in the wing tip) in relation to
the nav antenna?
Larry Rosen
#356
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O/IO-540 For sale |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch@earthlink.net>
Hi Phil.
Have you had any interest in your engine? I might know of a buyer. Contact
me of line.
Bob
Message 3
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| Subject: | back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hey all,
I haven't done any back riveting for a little while and I just looked at
my back rivet plate and theres a nice big rust spot on it. Amazingly
enough, it looks almost exactly like a palm print :P Apparently I must
have picked it up or something without wiping it down after using it.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to polish that out?
Thanks,
James
#40400
Elevators
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cherry Blind Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
I think I've figured out something that will
work for me (hopefully). Van's has the AACQ-4-3 and
AACQ-4-4 1/8 structural pop rivets (alum shank and alum
mandrel), and Aircraft Spruce has BSC-34 3/32 non-structural
pop rivets (alum shank and steel mandrel). All of these
are 120 degree flush, not 100, so I've ordered an inexpensive
120 degree dimple tool from Aircraft Spruce p/n 17014
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/dimpltool.php>
If anyone is interested, I'll report back after
I get them and try them out.
Thanks for all the help and advice!
-Dj
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Should come off fine with your 3M wheel or pad, followed up by some
acetone or similar.
-Sean #40303
James Ochs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Hey all,
>
> I haven't done any back riveting for a little while and I just looked
> at my back rivet plate and theres a nice big rust spot on it.
> Amazingly enough, it looks almost exactly like a palm print :P
> Apparently I must have picked it up or something without wiping it
> down after using it. Anyway, any suggestions on how to polish that out?
>
> Thanks,
> James
> #40400
> Elevators
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
James,
I had a similar issue with mine and just used scotchbrite (green) then
followed it up with a little oil (WD40). Make sure you sand with the grain.
Seemed to work great and it's good as new.
Sean
40225
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hey all,
I haven't done any back riveting for a little while and I just looked at
my back rivet plate and theres a nice big rust spot on it. Amazingly
enough, it looks almost exactly like a palm print :P Apparently I must
have picked it up or something without wiping it down after using it.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to polish that out?
Thanks,
James
#40400
Elevators
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
In a message dated 10/23/05 2:11 pm, schmoboy@cox.net writes:
<<
Should come off fine with your 3M wheel or pad, followed up by some
acetone or similar. >>
Acetone is a solvent for organic stuff. Rust, (iron oxide) is better
served with a weak acid, like vinegar or a reducing agent like the stuff in naval
jelly. Then a great rinse, and light machine oil to protrct the surface when
dry.
Steve
Do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Antennae - Marker Beacon |
The marker beacon antenna mounts in the bottom of the wingtip 3" outboard of
the wing skin. The trailing edge end is mounted as far back in the wingtip
as possible. The rest of the antenna is mounted parallel with the wing skin.
The NAV antenna should be mounted as far forward as possible in the top of
the wingtip.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/23/2005 9:16:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
LarryRosen@comcast.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Dan Checkoway has some information on his wing tip marker beacon
installation
here <http://www.rvproject.com/20040128.html> and
here <http://www.rvproject.com/20040201.html>
From Scott's photos it looks like he is installing a similar
arrangement the photo is here
<http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/124475/4/8847036>
I am planning on having the Archer style nav antenna in each wing tip.
Where does the marker beacon antenna go (in the wing tip) in relation to
the nav antenna?
Larry Rosen
#356
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I use Boshield ..... available in the aircraft section of most boat
supply places. It'll last a whole lot longer than WD-40 ..... on the
part that is. I have a small rag in a jar that I use to spread it
around ..... that way I only have to spray a little on the part. WD-40
will evaporate and with a little humidity (we have a lot in FL) the
steel will rust again.
Linn
do not archive
Sean Blair wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
>James,
>
>I had a similar issue with mine and just used scotchbrite (green) then
>followed it up with a little oil (WD40). Make sure you sand with the grain.
>Seemed to work great and it's good as new.
>
>Sean
>40225
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 11:40 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
>Hey all,
>
>I haven't done any back riveting for a little while and I just looked at
>my back rivet plate and theres a nice big rust spot on it. Amazingly
>enough, it looks almost exactly like a palm print :P Apparently I must
>have picked it up or something without wiping it down after using it.
>Anyway, any suggestions on how to polish that out?
>
>Thanks,
>James
>#40400
>Elevators
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 10
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h=message-id:date:from:user-agent:x-accept-language:
2FPlx5Lz/rgnWJopJwMqg==
| Subject: | Approximate hours |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Ed Godfrey <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
To those of you who have completed either the complete RV-10 or those
that have completed complete sections such as the empennage, wings,
fuselage and/or the finish kit, would you be able to you supply me with
the approximate hours per section? Am trying to calculate a budgeting
timeline. Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
Message 11
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| Subject: | back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
If it is small enough, grease it up and put it in your oven like you
would a cast iron skillet. Season to taste!! This was a tip from my
builders course.
Bobby
40116
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RE: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
James,
I had a similar issue with mine and just used scotchbrite (green) then
followed it up with a little oil (WD40). Make sure you sand with the
grain.
Seemed to work great and it's good as new.
Sean
40225
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hey all,
I haven't done any back riveting for a little while and I just looked at
my back rivet plate and theres a nice big rust spot on it. Amazingly
enough, it looks almost exactly like a palm print :P Apparently I must
have picked it up or something without wiping it down after using it.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to polish that out?
Thanks,
James
#40400
Elevators
Message 12
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| Subject: | back rivet plate rust |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
It may be a little late for this, but I kept the original special paper that
the plate was wrapped in to keep it looking good. No big spots yet, and
never wiped down here in humid AL. If you've recently bought your special
bucking bar commercially than you'll have some more paper you can keep to
wrap it in.
Rob
40392
Elevators
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Subject: RE: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
If it is small enough, grease it up and put it in your oven like you
would a cast iron skillet. Season to taste!! This was a tip from my
builders course.
Bobby
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RE: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
James,
I had a similar issue with mine and just used scotchbrite (green) then
followed it up with a little oil (WD40). Make sure you sand with the
grain.
Seemed to work great and it's good as new.
Sean
40225
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: back rivet plate rust
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hey all,
I haven't done any back riveting for a little while and I just looked at
my back rivet plate and theres a nice big rust spot on it. Amazingly
enough, it looks almost exactly like a palm print :P Apparently I must
have picked it up or something without wiping it down after using it.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to polish that out?
Thanks,
James
#40400
Elevators
Message 13
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| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance update |
So there's no reliable way to know about engine sump clearance until you try it,
eh?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance update
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Van's got my engine mount this week and turned it around a.s.a.p.
I have a few photos from Scott, and did a write-up here for you all.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051022/index.html
If you read the above link, you can disregard the rest of this
email. It's just a repost of the text for the archives.
Tim
They have been very very good at dealing with this issue for me. I
think that hearing it from a few people now, they determined that there
may be a potential issue for some customers and they wanted to figure it
out a.s.a.p. and come up with a correction or a plan. I sent them my
engine mount via FedEx and they got it the same week. They actually
analyzed it right away the first day they got it in, and dropped me a
note. Then, on Friday (the next day), they actually had someone come in
to perform the welding so they could ship it out that same day. (This
is extra special, since the guys who do this work 4 tens, and don't
usually work Friday). They also offered to powder coat the weld if I
wanted to wait a week or so for powder coating, but I opted to get the
mount back a.s.a.p. so they were going to try to ship it back Friday.
Great service....turn around in one day.
Here are some facts:
When they placed the engine mount in their test case, they had 3/16" to
almost 1/4" clearance. That's still not 1/2", but it's about double
what I had (.063 to .125") They feel there must be a difference in the
sumps. I gave them my sump numbers because they want to investigate
what the difference is. My numbers were:
REV G
78066
EQ-2
W
and a number that looks like Z1902
They say they aren't seeing any problem with the brand new Lycoming
engines they're selling. Their first-glance look seems to indicate that
my sump may be an off number from what they are used to seeing.
Remember that any engine you buy, Aerosport, or any other
non-factory-new, will be a rebuild that will potentially be built out of
cases and sumps from any model year or number. This could cause some of
these small variations. There is no such thing as an "Aerosport IO-540"
as one list member wrote. They are all just rebuilds of other IO-540's
that aren't factory new....and can be of various previous lineages.
It is also interesting to note that according to Van's, the cross bar in
question was determined unnecessary by engineering, but someone working
with the engine mounts decided to add it anyway to add more structure
and support. Given the solid design, I'd believe this, but when you see
the mount, I think it's still best to have the bar there. That said, I
can't picture there being hardly any stress on this particular joint. I
could picture the "fix" being done without welding....cutting the tube,
and bolting in a curved piece. Of course, a bolted joint would give
more opportunity for corrosion where the tubes meet, so I'm happy with
the welding option.
So my modded engine mount is now enroute back to me, and I should be
able to hang the engine for next weekend. It was a bit of a pain, but
at least it didn't cause a major slowdown. My advice? Get your engine
and mount hung while you're working on the canopy and fuselage. Then
you can tell if you have any issues, and can pull it immediately and
send it out for rework without slowing anything down. I am under the
impression that Van's might be willing to work with future builders on
this problem. I am not sure if they plan to make this mod part of their
general contstruction in the future. If anyone gets that answer, let me
know. They have been very good dealing with this for me though.
Thanks Scott! (and Bruce)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Clearance update |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
So far, that's the case as far as I can tell. Perhaps if we started to
find out the variations of sumps, and part numbers, we could get a
list going, but it may just be buy it, try it, fix it if you need to.
Hopefully Van's will just incorporate the curved tube into all of
their future mounts and then it woudln't be an issue for
anyone anymore. It wouldn't hurt to have it that way if you didn't
need the clearance.
Tim
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> So there's no reliable way to know about engine sump clearance until you try
it, eh?
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sat 10/22/2005 10:41 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance update
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Van's got my engine mount this week and turned it around a.s.a.p.
> I have a few photos from Scott, and did a write-up here for you all.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051022/index.html
>
> If you read the above link, you can disregard the rest of this
> email. It's just a repost of the text for the archives.
>
> Tim
>
>
> They have been very very good at dealing with this issue for me. I
> think that hearing it from a few people now, they determined that there
> may be a potential issue for some customers and they wanted to figure it
> out a.s.a.p. and come up with a correction or a plan. I sent them my
> engine mount via FedEx and they got it the same week. They actually
> analyzed it right away the first day they got it in, and dropped me a
> note. Then, on Friday (the next day), they actually had someone come in
> to perform the welding so they could ship it out that same day. (This
> is extra special, since the guys who do this work 4 tens, and don't
> usually work Friday). They also offered to powder coat the weld if I
> wanted to wait a week or so for powder coating, but I opted to get the
> mount back a.s.a.p. so they were going to try to ship it back Friday.
> Great service....turn around in one day.
>
> Here are some facts:
> When they placed the engine mount in their test case, they had 3/16" to
> almost 1/4" clearance. That's still not 1/2", but it's about double
> what I had (.063 to .125") They feel there must be a difference in the
> sumps. I gave them my sump numbers because they want to investigate
> what the difference is. My numbers were:
>
> REV G
> 78066
> EQ-2
> W
> and a number that looks like Z1902
>
> They say they aren't seeing any problem with the brand new Lycoming
> engines they're selling. Their first-glance look seems to indicate that
> my sump may be an off number from what they are used to seeing.
> Remember that any engine you buy, Aerosport, or any other
> non-factory-new, will be a rebuild that will potentially be built out of
> cases and sumps from any model year or number. This could cause some of
> these small variations. There is no such thing as an "Aerosport IO-540"
> as one list member wrote. They are all just rebuilds of other IO-540's
> that aren't factory new....and can be of various previous lineages.
>
> It is also interesting to note that according to Van's, the cross bar in
> question was determined unnecessary by engineering, but someone working
> with the engine mounts decided to add it anyway to add more structure
> and support. Given the solid design, I'd believe this, but when you see
> the mount, I think it's still best to have the bar there. That said, I
> can't picture there being hardly any stress on this particular joint. I
> could picture the "fix" being done without welding....cutting the tube,
> and bolting in a curved piece. Of course, a bolted joint would give
> more opportunity for corrosion where the tubes meet, so I'm happy with
> the welding option.
>
>
> So my modded engine mount is now enroute back to me, and I should be
> able to hang the engine for next weekend. It was a bit of a pain, but
> at least it didn't cause a major slowdown. My advice? Get your engine
> and mount hung while you're working on the canopy and fuselage. Then
> you can tell if you have any issues, and can pull it immediately and
> send it out for rework without slowing anything down. I am under the
> impression that Van's might be willing to work with future builders on
> this problem. I am not sure if they plan to make this mod part of their
> general contstruction in the future. If anyone gets that answer, let me
> know. They have been very good dealing with this for me though.
> Thanks Scott! (and Bruce)
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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