Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:58 AM - Flap Positioning System Contact info (Harris, Jeremy P)
2. 05:23 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Contact info (bob.kaufmann)
3. 05:26 AM - Andair Fuel Valves (Neal George)
4. 05:28 AM - Re: Primers not to use?? (Randy DeBauw)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: Air Box Recess (Randy DeBauw)
6. 05:54 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valves (Tim Olson)
7. 10:40 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valves (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 11:07 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valves (Rick)
9. 12:20 PM - Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets (Larry Rosen)
10. 12:53 PM - Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment (Chris Johnston)
11. 12:54 PM - Re: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets (RAS)
12. 01:21 PM - Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment (Jeffrey C. Van Dam, P.E.)
13. 01:44 PM - Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment (Chris Johnston)
14. 01:46 PM - Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment (Rick)
15. 01:50 PM - Re: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets (Rick)
16. 02:31 PM - Re: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets (John Testement)
17. 04:32 PM - Re: [RV10] Revisiting Torque (Chris)
18. 04:32 PM - Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment (John Hasbrouck)
19. 04:42 PM - Wingtip lens (John Hasbrouck)
20. 06:20 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Tim Olson)
21. 08:30 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (John Testement)
22. 08:42 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Indran Chelvanayagam)
23. 09:01 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Tim Olson)
24. 09:12 PM - Re: Air Box Recess (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Contact info |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
Does anyone have the phone number to "Show Planes" in Medford, OR? It's
printed on the flap positioning box for the RV-10.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 2
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Contact info |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
You can get Brian Melani at 541 773-3344. I believe that's the office
number.
Bob K 40125
Fuselage, just joined the front to center section
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris, Jeremy P
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Contact info
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
Does anyone have the phone number to "Show Planes" in Medford, OR? It's
printed on the flap positioning box for the RV-10.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 3
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valves |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Neal George" <neal@appaero.com>
Gentlemen -
Like many of you, I wanted an aircraft-quality fuel valve for my RV. I
met with Andair's rep at Sun'N'Fun and explained our dilemma - common
fittings made the valves too big for the space provided and banjo
fittings are expensive, hard to find and add unnecessary joints to the
system.
The result of that conversation is the Andair FS20x7t. Details and
(poor) pictures here: www.appaero.com/andair.htm
The first shipment arrived last week and I have a few left.
Cost is $250 delivered.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (fuselage)
RV-8 N998GM (canoe flipped)
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
Message 4
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| Subject: | Primers not to use?? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I have on several occasions reused the primer after several days. If you
take the leftover and it in a sealed container and then into the
freezer. You can use it up to a week or so. Just let it warm up some
before using it. I wouldn't do that on any parts that will have a final
finish put on them. Randy.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Pot life on 1791 is 8 hours at 70F.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/p-141-dx1791.pdf
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rene Felker wrote:
> I am an expert.....just not on primers. I have used both the SW 988
and
> the PPG 1791. I am trying to stay with the 1791, it seems to be a
> little more durable. I use the SW988 when I just want to do a small
piece.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the shelf life of the 1791 once it has been mixed. I
> was wandering if I could mix a large amount of prime and then just use
a
> little at a time with one of those touchup guns.
>
>
>
> And if you are wondering what I am an expert in......fixing bad
rivets, I
> have a lot of practice.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
Jessen
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 19, 2005 2:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Primers not to use??
>
>
>
> Sorry, forgot to add that I'd wait to get the PPG 1791 or go with a
> rattle can primer like the SW 988. Both are used by builders who have
> praised them. Unless there's an expert on this list in this area, no
> one can claim ultimate knowledge of what will work best, unless you go
> the traditional alodine route.
>
>
>
> John Jessen
>
> 40328 HS
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian
Sponcil
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:13 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Primers not to use??
>
>
>
> I realize I'm running the risk of opening a primer debate as well as
> numerous flames documenting my obvious ignorance, BUT I was at the
local
> auto paint stop today looking to pick up some PPG 1791 self etching
> primer. Sadly they were out and the guy behind the counter recommended
I
> use a rattle can of SEM 39683 self etching primer. He claims it's just
> as good but you don't have to futz with the catalyst and that he's had
> good results with the cars he's used it on. ($12/can btw).
>
>
>
> Now I realize that all primers are not created equal and that some
> people don't primer at all but it got me thinking (always dangerous).
> Are there primers to actually AVOID? If it says for use on steel and
> aluminum is that good enough? I seem to recall a guy at Vans telling
me
> any ol metal primer will do, it's just not necessary.
>
>
>
> Opinions?
>
>
>
>
>
> -Brian
>
> Iowa City, IA
>
>
>
Message 5
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I had to do some filling in around the depression insert Anh. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Air Box Recess
Anyone successfully fluted the recess to fit the air box and top plate?
I'm resorting to glassing the hole in.
Anh
#141
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valves |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I almost bought one of these (my 3rd Andair) at OSH, but there is
one small issue. (It could probably be worked around though)
With the valve I used, the left side fitting has only a small
clearance from the tunnel wall, but there is clearance.
With this valve, the fittings come off at 45's from the front, so
there's plenty of clearance for the fittings and side tube. The
issue though, is that the heater tube for the rear seats has to
run through that area. With the Y shaped lines going down, as
viewed from above, this now causes a small problem. The Left
and Right lines now have no room on the outsides to allow the
hose through, and the outlet fitting of the valve is in the
center, so now there's no room between the inside of the left/right
lines and the outlet line either.
There my be a way to work around it through creative tube bending,
but I went home and looked at my -10 during OSH and actually
went back to Andair's booth and cancelled my order after
looking at it at home....since I had mine installed, it wasn't
worth the extra hassle.
That said, it would be really cool to see some people's install
of this valve...it could be that it is a real help. If it was,
I'd even be willing to tear out mine and replace it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Neal George wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Neal George" <neal@appaero.com>
>
> Gentlemen -
>
> Like many of you, I wanted an aircraft-quality fuel valve for my RV. I
> met with Andair's rep at Sun'N'Fun and explained our dilemma - common
> fittings made the valves too big for the space provided and banjo
> fittings are expensive, hard to find and add unnecessary joints to the
> system.
>
> The result of that conversation is the Andair FS20x7t. Details and
> (poor) pictures here: www.appaero.com/andair.htm
>
> The first shipment arrived last week and I have a few left.
> Cost is $250 delivered.
>
> Neal
> RV-7 N8ZG (fuselage)
> RV-8 N998GM (canoe flipped)
> Home - 334-262-8993
> Cell - 334-546-2033
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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SPAM: If the email is for spam, please report to abuse@dnsExit.com
-By mail relay service at:
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Accounts will be suspended immediately if found spamming.
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valves |
I asked Neal to send me one. It will be a while before I get to it (SB fuse get's
here beginning of Dec)so if someone else want's to have a go before me, feel
free. I'm sure Tim would be happy to post the best procedure to his site
for everyone.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing bottom skins
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valves
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I almost bought one of these (my 3rd Andair) at OSH, but there is one small issue.
(It could probably be worked around though) With the valve I used, the left
side fitting has only a small clearance from the tunnel wall, but there is clearance.
With this valve, the fittings come off at 45's from the front, so there's plenty
of clearance for the fittings and side tube. The issue though, is that the
heater tube for the rear seats has to run through that area. With the Y shaped
lines going down, as viewed from above, this now causes a small problem. The
Left and Right lines now have no room on the outsides to allow the hose through,
and the outlet fitting of the valve is in the center, so now there's no room
between the inside of the left/right lines and the outlet line either.
There my be a way to work around it through creative tube bending, but I went home
and looked at my -10 during OSH and actually went back to Andair's booth and
cancelled my order after looking at it at home....since I had mine installed,
it wasn't worth the extra hassle.
That said, it would be really cool to see some people's install of this valve...it
could be that it is a real help. If it was, I'd even be willing to tear out
mine and replace it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Neal George wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Neal George" <neal@appaero.com>
>
> Gentlemen -
>
> Like many of you, I wanted an aircraft-quality fuel valve for my RV.
> I met with Andair's rep at Sun'N'Fun and explained our dilemma -
> common fittings made the valves too big for the space provided and
> banjo fittings are expensive, hard to find and add unnecessary joints
> to the system.
>
> The result of that conversation is the Andair FS20x7t. Details and
> (poor) pictures here: www.appaero.com/andair.htm
>
> The first shipment arrived last week and I have a few left.
> Cost is $250 delivered.
>
> Neal
> RV-7 N8ZG (fuselage)
> RV-8 N998GM (canoe flipped)
> Home - 334-262-8993
> Cell - 334-546-2033
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valves |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
What technique did you use to rivet the nut plate that holds the wing
tip light lenses in place?
I have already drilled the hole to mount the nut plate. The rivet holes
are 1/16" from the lenses recess edge which seems to close to get a flat
set on. I cannot back rivet because the rivet gun with a back rivet set
will not fit inside the wing tip.
Help please.
Larry Rosen
#356
Wing Tips
Message 10
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| Subject: | Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
Has anyone had problems with the alignment of the bearing hole when you
try to cleco W-1013B-L to W-1013B-R with W-1013A in the middle? When I
cleco together using the rivet holes, there's almost 1/8" of
misalignment between the counterbored holes that capture the bearing. I
called Vans, and they didn't see how it was possible, but I'm looking at
the part and it's plain as day. My wing kit arrived in august, so it's
fairly recent. Anyone with a recent wing kit delivery have the same
issue? The problem (I think) is with the part W-1013C-L, because that
same part is used for the inner bracket on one side, and the outer of
the other, and they're both hosed.
Thanks
cj
#40410
wings
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi,
use a blind rivet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> What technique did you use to rivet the nut plate that holds the wing
> tip light lenses in place?
>
> I have already drilled the hole to mount the nut plate. The rivet holes
> are 1/16" from the lenses recess edge which seems to close to get a flat
> set on. I cannot back rivet because the rivet gun with a back rivet set
> will not fit inside the wing tip.
>
> Help please.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Wing Tips
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeffrey C. Van Dam, P.E." <jcvandam@mgci.com>
I'm having the same problem with bearing hole. When I put the bearing in
the rivet holes close to the bearing are off by almost 1/8". I drilled the
rivet holes to final size and now have elongated holes. I haven't yet
decided on a fix.
Jeff Van Dam
#40265
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey all -
>
> Has anyone had problems with the alignment of the bearing hole when you
> try to cleco W-1013B-L to W-1013B-R with W-1013A in the middle? When I
> cleco together using the rivet holes, there's almost 1/8" of
> misalignment between the counterbored holes that capture the bearing. I
> called Vans, and they didn't see how it was possible, but I'm looking at
> the part and it's plain as day. My wing kit arrived in august, so it's
> fairly recent. Anyone with a recent wing kit delivery have the same
> issue? The problem (I think) is with the part W-1013C-L, because that
> same part is used for the inner bracket on one side, and the outer of
> the other, and they're both hosed.
>
> Thanks
> cj
> #40410
> wings
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey Jeff -
After I spoke with the tech guy, I ordered new parts, and I'm sending
them my old misaligned brackets. I'm leaving them clecoed together with
a note so that the problem is VERY apparent. Not sure what I'll do if
the new ones have the same problem.
cj
#40410
wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey C.
Van Dam, P.E.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeffrey C. Van Dam, P.E."
<jcvandam@mgci.com>
I'm having the same problem with bearing hole. When I put the bearing
in
the rivet holes close to the bearing are off by almost 1/8". I drilled
the
rivet holes to final size and now have elongated holes. I haven't yet
decided on a fix.
Jeff Van Dam
#40265
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
<CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey all -
>
> Has anyone had problems with the alignment of the bearing hole when
you
> try to cleco W-1013B-L to W-1013B-R with W-1013A in the middle? When
I
> cleco together using the rivet holes, there's almost 1/8" of
> misalignment between the counterbored holes that capture the bearing.
I
> called Vans, and they didn't see how it was possible, but I'm looking
at
> the part and it's plain as day. My wing kit arrived in august, so
it's
> fairly recent. Anyone with a recent wing kit delivery have the same
> issue? The problem (I think) is with the part W-1013C-L, because that
> same part is used for the inner bracket on one side, and the outer of
> the other, and they're both hosed.
>
> Thanks
> cj
> #40410
> wings
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Just so you know how mine did,
My bearings were an almost perfect, machined fit, only slight pressure was needed
for them to snap nicely in place and the two brackets lined up perfectly for
drilling and riveting. For some reason several builders are having trouble and
it has to be in the manufacture of the brackets or undersized OD on the bearing.(
Unless there is a way you can mismatch your pieces somehow or over deburring
as one member said he did.) This is a major hingepoint connection and you
don't even want to second guess the integrity. Slop could lead to catastrophic
failure from flutter and you may not see the slop until it is too late. Van's
has always been responsive to me, get your parts, take photos, measurements
and email them to support and wait for them to respond or setup a phone call
after they have reviewed the pictures etc. so you can discuss. Make your case
so you don't get the "that's not possible" response.
Just my @ cents worth
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Wish I had thought of that....I used what is called a suicide rivet set. Basically
a set without the mushroom head on it. The back rivet set works well as a
suicide, just drive out the roll pin and try it but heck the blind rivet is a
perfect resolution to the problem.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 16
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| Subject: | Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
I turned the nutplate parallel to the edge - plenty of room to put in one
good rivet. I then epoxyed the other nutplate lug to the fiberglass. Seems
to work out just fine.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing QB wings, starting QB fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS"
--> <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi,
use a blind rivet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tip Light Lens Nut Plate Rivets
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> What technique did you use to rivet the nut plate that holds the wing
> tip light lenses in place?
>
> I have already drilled the hole to mount the nut plate. The rivet holes
> are 1/16" from the lenses recess edge which seems to close to get a flat
> set on. I cannot back rivet because the rivet gun with a back rivet set
> will not fit inside the wing tip.
>
> Help please.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Wing Tips
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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"Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
| Subject: | Re: [RV10] Revisiting Torque |
You need a torque wrench with lower values. I have a 0-75 inch pound (dial gauge)
that covers most areas. For self locking nuts either nylock or ovalized steel
(nut plates) you should measure the torque required to turn the nut/bolt after
at least a couple of threads have entered past the end of the nut. This is
the run on torque. As the bolt/nut approaches clamping of the parts torque will
rise. You SHOULD torque to the value in the table for the bolt PLUS the run
on torque you measured. I measured several nylocks and decided they were consistent
enough to use the same run on value then I just add this to the torque
table value. So I don't always check the run on torque every time. Example:
If the table is 25 in-lbs max, and run on torque is 7 in-lbs then max torque you
actually should apply is 32 in-lbs. (This is the way the standard practices
manual for GE engines explains it)
Chris L
#40072
N919AR
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: RV Group
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 2:10 PM
Subject: [RV10] Revisiting Torque
Back in August we had a protracted discussion about torque values and
whether to add "torque drag" to the torque value table. I've gone
back and read those posts and don't see a definitive answer to that
question... so I'll pose it again in the context of my current dilema.
I'm currently attaching the W-823PP Aileron Bellcrank Brackets to the
spar web and W-1020 Tie-Down Bracket with AN3-5A Bolts into K1000-3
nutplates. At 25 in/lbs of torque the brackets are not at all tight
to the spar web. I've attempted to measure the drag from the
nutplate, but my wrench has a minimum setting of 25 in/lbs and I
don't think interpreting below that is going to be accurate. Any ideas?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wings
a.. Visit your group "RV10" on the web.
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV10-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bracket Bearing hole misalignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
I had the same problem and Vans's replaced my parts after I e-mailed them.
It was the W-1013B-L that was misaligned. The new ones fit perfectly. My
wings were shipped around May of this year. A fellow builder in my area had
the same problem.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all the
two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of lenses
use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress crack
developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you overtighten the
screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the wingtip maybe
taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being paranoid, I have no
experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks like a weak point to me.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just did my lenses tonight....post-painting. Have a tip, and
want to comment on this thread.
First, back on the riveting: Doing the lens fitting after painting
(stupid me) I didn't want to risk riveting using pounded rivets.
In fact, I think given the location, I'd rather never use pounded
rivets in that location. I found my solution. I did everything
as listed in the plans, including the nutplate orientation. But,
then I substituted these rivets: CCR-264SS-3-2 We had them that
I believe came with the tailcone section....don't know where they're
supposed to be used. Anyway, they're heavy-duty rivets, but in
this application, they aren't. What happens is when you pull
the rivet, the fit isn't tight enough, especially in fiberglass, to
snap the shaft. So, it expands the rivet shank, capturing the
nutplate...then the shaft pulls right through. It should hold that
nutplate plenty, with no worry since it's not structural anyway.
Sure, the rivets are $.19 each, but it sure is more comfortable
than hammering!
Now, on to the thread... Yes John, after doing mine tonight,
I totally agree with you that 2 screws, especially as placed,
are not enough for me to be comfortable. There's a tiny bit
of slop in the tip covers, and I can easily see that 200mph
air sneaking under the front corner and ripping that thing
right off. So, my plan is to order a few more of those rivets
I mentioned above, and put in 2 more nutplates per side....
about 1/3 the way back from the leading edge, on top and bottom.
Then I should feel pretty good about it, as the back side will
not probably ever cause any problems.
Part of that problem is made an issue because the lens doesn't
make the same exact curve as that flange it rests on does.
The lens contacts the corner of it, but isn't flush along
the whole flange. Perhaps a tiny bit of heat on the lens, and
a slight bend along the flange area to flush it up might
help....I'm still considering it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all
> the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of
> lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress
> crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you
> overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the
> wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being
> paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks
> like a weak point to me.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
Message 21
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Tim,
I did heat my lens with a heat gun and smoothed it into shape with a cloth.
It worked great to fit the lens perfectly to the contour.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing QB wings, starting QB fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just did my lenses tonight....post-painting. Have a tip, and want to
comment on this thread.
First, back on the riveting: Doing the lens fitting after painting (stupid
me) I didn't want to risk riveting using pounded rivets.
In fact, I think given the location, I'd rather never use pounded
rivets in that location. I found my solution. I did everything
as listed in the plans, including the nutplate orientation. But,
then I substituted these rivets: CCR-264SS-3-2 We had them that
I believe came with the tailcone section....don't know where they're
supposed to be used. Anyway, they're heavy-duty rivets, but in this
application, they aren't. What happens is when you pull the rivet, the fit
isn't tight enough, especially in fiberglass, to snap the shaft. So, it
expands the rivet shank, capturing the nutplate...then the shaft pulls right
through. It should hold that nutplate plenty, with no worry since it's not
structural anyway.
Sure, the rivets are $.19 each, but it sure is more comfortable than
hammering!
Now, on to the thread... Yes John, after doing mine tonight,
I totally agree with you that 2 screws, especially as placed, are not enough
for me to be comfortable. There's a tiny bit of slop in the tip covers, and
I can easily see that 200mph air sneaking under the front corner and ripping
that thing
right off. So, my plan is to order a few more of those rivets
I mentioned above, and put in 2 more nutplates per side....
about 1/3 the way back from the leading edge, on top and bottom.
Then I should feel pretty good about it, as the back side will not probably
ever cause any problems.
Part of that problem is made an issue because the lens doesn't make the same
exact curve as that flange it rests on does.
The lens contacts the corner of it, but isn't flush along the whole flange.
Perhaps a tiny bit of heat on the lens, and a slight bend along the flange
area to flush it up might help....I'm still considering it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> --> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all
> the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types
> of lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a
> stress crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you
> overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart
> the wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being
> paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks
> like a weak point to me.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
Message 22
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Here's one solution I found amongst the multiple RVs parked at Oshkosh this
year...
Looks pretty secure to me ;-)
Indran Chelvanayagam
#40228
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
--> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all the
two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of lenses
use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress crack
developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you overtighten the
screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the wingtip maybe
taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being paranoid, I have no
experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks like a weak point to me.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Good to know. I'm sure that also helps add to the security if you only
use 2 screws...it's harder for it to pop out if the front and rear edges
are are tight to the wingtip. I'll try the heat gun approach, but
I'll have to be careful of the paint.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Testement wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> I did heat my lens with a heat gun and smoothed it into shape with a cloth.
> It worked great to fit the lens perfectly to the contour.
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Finishing QB wings, starting QB fuse
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 9:18 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I just did my lenses tonight....post-painting. Have a tip, and want to
> comment on this thread.
>
> First, back on the riveting: Doing the lens fitting after painting (stupid
> me) I didn't want to risk riveting using pounded rivets.
> In fact, I think given the location, I'd rather never use pounded
> rivets in that location. I found my solution. I did everything
> as listed in the plans, including the nutplate orientation. But,
> then I substituted these rivets: CCR-264SS-3-2 We had them that
> I believe came with the tailcone section....don't know where they're
> supposed to be used. Anyway, they're heavy-duty rivets, but in this
> application, they aren't. What happens is when you pull the rivet, the fit
> isn't tight enough, especially in fiberglass, to snap the shaft. So, it
> expands the rivet shank, capturing the nutplate...then the shaft pulls right
> through. It should hold that nutplate plenty, with no worry since it's not
> structural anyway.
> Sure, the rivets are $.19 each, but it sure is more comfortable than
> hammering!
>
> Now, on to the thread... Yes John, after doing mine tonight,
> I totally agree with you that 2 screws, especially as placed, are not enough
> for me to be comfortable. There's a tiny bit of slop in the tip covers, and
> I can easily see that 200mph air sneaking under the front corner and ripping
> that thing
> right off. So, my plan is to order a few more of those rivets
> I mentioned above, and put in 2 more nutplates per side....
> about 1/3 the way back from the leading edge, on top and bottom.
> Then I should feel pretty good about it, as the back side will not probably
> ever cause any problems.
>
> Part of that problem is made an issue because the lens doesn't make the same
> exact curve as that flange it rests on does.
> The lens contacts the corner of it, but isn't flush along the whole flange.
> Perhaps a tiny bit of heat on the lens, and a slight bend along the flange
> area to flush it up might help....I'm still considering it.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> John Hasbrouck wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
>>--> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>>
>>While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all
>>the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types
>>of lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a
>>stress crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you
>>overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart
>>the wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being
>>paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks
>>like a weak point to me.
>>
>>John Hasbrouck
>>#40264
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Air Box Recess |
Thanks Randy. My insert did not work at all. It was not deep enough laterally
to clear the fuel mixture arm. I made the recess out of glass.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Box Recess
I had to do some filling in around the depression insert Anh. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 6:46 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Air Box Recess
Anyone successfully fluted the recess to fit the air box and top plate? I'm
resorting to glassing the hole in.
Anh
#141
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