Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:10 AM - Observations (John Jessen)
2. 07:12 AM - Incidentals (Tim Olson)
3. 07:14 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
4. 07:22 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
5. 07:26 AM - Re: Incidentals (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
6. 07:42 AM - Re: Incidentals (John Cram)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Observations (LessDragProd@aol.com)
8. 08:47 AM - Re: Observations (Tim Olson)
9. 09:20 AM - Re: Observations (John Jessen)
10. 09:54 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Jesse Saint)
11. 02:11 PM - Re: F-1010, F-1008R - Cracks in inner reinforce flange (Nikolaos Napoli)
12. 07:52 PM - door securtiy kit (David McNeill)
Message 1
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Some general observations.
1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well, that's a
little strong, but now that I know about the effect of pressure on riveting,
my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad rivets has gone up
dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting.
2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your gun
under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth process of
forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a sufficient mass in some
of those small spaces and positioned just right. This leads to many
attempts with many different shapes and sizes of bucking bars, with many not
so good rivets as you experiment. Finally, as you near the end of the
particular row of difficult to reach rivets, you figure it out and the last
5 rivets out of 50 go real nice. Perfect.
3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and so on
makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of the builder is
somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of riveting the HS, I am
almost able to type, let alone make it without pain to the kitchen to build
a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing those silver clecos begin to
disappear, one by one, is worth it.
4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed, deburred,
dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're close to
finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it. It goes on and
on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one bloody sentence in the
manual can mean three days of work? But that's just fine, because you've
decided that the challenge is in the rivet of the moment. You figure out
that looking ahead is deadly. Just do the current rivet and when you're too
tired to continue, take a seat, brew some tea or pop a brew and just look at
the progress. The RV-10 HS is pretty amazing for someone who has never
built a plane before. You begin to imagine the VS and Rudder and HS all
starting to make a plane. You begin to believe you just might be able to do
this after all.
5. Motrin helps.
6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing similar
projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help another builder.
Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or skill. For example,
if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping around with your
bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to rivet by feel, scrape
the bucking bar gently across the rivets you just set until you feel the bar
on the current rivet. By feel, move the rivet into the center of the bar,
then tease the gun just enough to verify that you are on the rivet through
both the feel and the sound the gun makes as it gently taps on the skin.
Then give it, for me, three timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet.
Three short bursts are easier for me to time than one long one. Once I
leaned this sequence, I was able to rivet quite successfully without being
able to see what I was doing.
7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long
handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of sight
and being set by feel actually turned out.
8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest to
someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you started the
project and when you finished. That's how much time it took. Let the rest
happen.
Just some observations.
John Jessen
40328 HS
do not archive
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Another list member emailed me recently that they were keeping track of
all of the incidentals and things that weren't in the kit...shipping,
extra nuts and bolts from the hardware store, glues, and things like
that. They're currently up to $5100 or so, working through the engine
stage with a bunch of things left to go, so there will be a lot of
other incidentals coming.
That got me wondering where I came out. At this point, everything
that I have left to buy is an incidental, and I'd never done any
addition. My list isn't 100% complete either. So a quick rundown
of my spreadsheet to remove things like engine, prop, all kit parts,
including some things that I bought because I broke them, no tools,
and all avionics, I have a rough total too. Mine does include paints,
primers, and all those things....seat belts, lighting, and all that good
stuff... even engine oil for the break in. My current total is
$13,250 approx. I expect at least another $400-500, if not double or
triple that much, as I complete the kit. (There are some extra
nuts and bolts in there that I won't need, but it's nice to have
a stock of them and it's not worth worrying about an extra
$200-500 in hardware.)
This all shouldn't be taken as a complaint at all, because I'm not
intending to start a gripe about what isn't included....there are
good reasons that these things are options for the most part.
But, for those lurkers who are trying to come up with an estimate
on kit costs, after purchasing the kit itself, these 2 data points
might help form a good estimated starting point. Most of the
costs are pretty predictible on the big items. I would caution
the prospective builder though to not under estimate their panel
and avionics costs. That's where you're most likely to blow
your budget. Get a quote on what you think is a panel that fits
you, and add $10,000 to it just in case...it goes fast.
One word of warning....not everyone is comfortable with the idea of
adding up their total kit costs, so think about it before you
do it.....and then decide if you do, can you tell your wife. ;)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
ON my RV-9 I have 4 on top and 4 on bottom, 2 along each side of the
lense. I think I am going to put 3 on my RV-10, one in the corner like
Van's says and then one extra one half way between the leading edge and
the aft edge.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
<jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all
the
two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of
lenses
use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress crack
developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you overtighten the
screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the wingtip maybe
taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being paranoid, I have no
experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks like a weak point to
me.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Be careful before you put the nutplates too close to the leading edge
because the curve on the outside of the tip will be different then the
curve on the inside where the nutplates are. This can cause the screw
to be at an angle to the outside surface and looks bad when you have to
countersink the lense and the screw is sticking up on one side and
countersunk too deep on the other. I would stay at least 2 - 3 inches
back from the leading edge.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just did my lenses tonight....post-painting. Have a tip, and
want to comment on this thread.
First, back on the riveting: Doing the lens fitting after painting
(stupid me) I didn't want to risk riveting using pounded rivets.
In fact, I think given the location, I'd rather never use pounded
rivets in that location. I found my solution. I did everything
as listed in the plans, including the nutplate orientation. But,
then I substituted these rivets: CCR-264SS-3-2 We had them that
I believe came with the tailcone section....don't know where they're
supposed to be used. Anyway, they're heavy-duty rivets, but in
this application, they aren't. What happens is when you pull
the rivet, the fit isn't tight enough, especially in fiberglass, to
snap the shaft. So, it expands the rivet shank, capturing the
nutplate...then the shaft pulls right through. It should hold that
nutplate plenty, with no worry since it's not structural anyway.
Sure, the rivets are $.19 each, but it sure is more comfortable
than hammering!
Now, on to the thread... Yes John, after doing mine tonight,
I totally agree with you that 2 screws, especially as placed,
are not enough for me to be comfortable. There's a tiny bit
of slop in the tip covers, and I can easily see that 200mph
air sneaking under the front corner and ripping that thing
right off. So, my plan is to order a few more of those rivets
I mentioned above, and put in 2 more nutplates per side....
about 1/3 the way back from the leading edge, on top and bottom.
Then I should feel pretty good about it, as the back side will
not probably ever cause any problems.
Part of that problem is made an issue because the lens doesn't
make the same exact curve as that flange it rests on does.
The lens contacts the corner of it, but isn't flush along
the whole flange. Perhaps a tiny bit of heat on the lens, and
a slight bend along the flange area to flush it up might
help....I'm still considering it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
<jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all
> the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types
of
> lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a
stress
> crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you
> overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart
the
> wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being
> paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks
> like a weak point to me.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Yeah, it's best to save your spreadsheet somewhere on the computer where
your wife is not going to find it!
Maybe give it a fake filename like "Baseball Stats" . . . : )
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Incidentals
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Another list member emailed me recently that they were keeping track of
all of the incidentals and things that weren't in the kit...shipping,
extra nuts and bolts from the hardware store, glues, and things like
that. They're currently up to $5100 or so, working through the engine
stage with a bunch of things left to go, so there will be a lot of
other incidentals coming.
That got me wondering where I came out. At this point, everything
that I have left to buy is an incidental, and I'd never done any
addition. My list isn't 100% complete either. So a quick rundown
of my spreadsheet to remove things like engine, prop, all kit parts,
including some things that I bought because I broke them, no tools,
and all avionics, I have a rough total too. Mine does include paints,
primers, and all those things....seat belts, lighting, and all that good
stuff... even engine oil for the break in. My current total is
$13,250 approx. I expect at least another $400-500, if not double or
triple that much, as I complete the kit. (There are some extra
nuts and bolts in there that I won't need, but it's nice to have
a stock of them and it's not worth worrying about an extra
$200-500 in hardware.)
This all shouldn't be taken as a complaint at all, because I'm not
intending to start a gripe about what isn't included....there are
good reasons that these things are options for the most part.
But, for those lurkers who are trying to come up with an estimate
on kit costs, after purchasing the kit itself, these 2 data points
might help form a good estimated starting point. Most of the
costs are pretty predictible on the big items. I would caution
the prospective builder though to not under estimate their panel
and avionics costs. That's where you're most likely to blow
your budget. Get a quote on what you think is a panel that fits
you, and add $10,000 to it just in case...it goes fast.
One word of warning....not everyone is comfortable with the idea of
adding up their total kit costs, so think about it before you
do it.....and then decide if you do, can you tell your wife. ;)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 6
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Now everyone knows where yours is.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend<mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incidentals
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com<mailto:Tdawson@Avidyne.com>>
Yeah, it's best to save your spreadsheet somewhere on the computer where
your wife is not going to find it!
Maybe give it a fake filename like "Baseball Stats" . . . : )
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Incidentals
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
Another list member emailed me recently that they were keeping track of
all of the incidentals and things that weren't in the kit...shipping,
extra nuts and bolts from the hardware store, glues, and things like
that. They're currently up to $5100 or so, working through the engine
stage with a bunch of things left to go, so there will be a lot of
other incidentals coming.
That got me wondering where I came out. At this point, everything
that I have left to buy is an incidental, and I'd never done any
addition. My list isn't 100% complete either. So a quick rundown
of my spreadsheet to remove things like engine, prop, all kit parts,
including some things that I bought because I broke them, no tools,
and all avionics, I have a rough total too. Mine does include paints,
primers, and all those things....seat belts, lighting, and all that good
stuff... even engine oil for the break in. My current total is
$13,250 approx. I expect at least another $400-500, if not double or
triple that much, as I complete the kit. (There are some extra
nuts and bolts in there that I won't need, but it's nice to have
a stock of them and it's not worth worrying about an extra
$200-500 in hardware.)
This all shouldn't be taken as a complaint at all, because I'm not
intending to start a gripe about what isn't included....there are
good reasons that these things are options for the most part.
But, for those lurkers who are trying to come up with an estimate
on kit costs, after purchasing the kit itself, these 2 data points
might help form a good estimated starting point. Most of the
costs are pretty predictible on the big items. I would caution
the prospective builder though to not under estimate their panel
and avionics costs. That's where you're most likely to blow
your budget. Get a quote on what you think is a panel that fits
you, and add $10,000 to it just in case...it goes fast.
One word of warning....not everyone is comfortable with the idea of
adding up their total kit costs, so think about it before you
do it.....and then decide if you do, can you tell your wife. ;)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
igator?RV10-List>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Observations |
Hi John,
Great observations!
Suggest 7a.) When you can't see the bucked side of the rivet, press on it
with your finger tip, and then look at your finger tip to see what the bucked
side of the rivet looks like. Your finger tip makes a good transfer tool.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
PS Watch for sharp edges, where the bucking bar wasn't fully on the rivet.
In a message dated 10/26/2005 1:17:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jjessen@rcn.com writes:
Some general observations.
(Stuff Cut)
7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long
handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of sight and
being set by feel actually turned out.
(Stuff Cut)
Just some observations.
John Jessen
40328 HS
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Observations |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
John, do you mind if I post clip this and put it on my site?
Tim
do not archive
John Jessen wrote:
> Some general observations.
>
> 1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well, that's
> a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of pressure on
> riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad rivets has gone
> up dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting.
>
> 2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your
> gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth
> process of forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a
> sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just
> right. This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and sizes
> of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment.
> Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to reach
> rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real nice.
> Perfect.
>
> 3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and
> so on makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of the
> builder is somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of
> riveting the HS, I am almost able to type, let alone make it without
> pain to the kitchen to build a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing
> those silver clecos begin to disappear, one by one, is worth it.
>
> 4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed, deburred,
> dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're close to
> finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it. It goes on
> and on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one bloody sentence in
> the manual can mean three days of work? But that's just fine, because
> you've decided that the challenge is in the rivet of the moment. You
> figure out that looking ahead is deadly. Just do the current rivet and
> when you're too tired to continue, take a seat, brew some tea or pop a
> brew and just look at the progress. The RV-10 HS is pretty amazing for
> someone who has never built a plane before. You begin to imagine the VS
> and Rudder and HS all starting to make a plane. You begin to believe
> you just might be able to do this after all.
>
> 5. Motrin helps.
>
> 6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing similar
> projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help another
> builder. Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or skill.
> For example, if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping
> around with your bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to
> rivet by feel, scrape the bucking bar gently across the rivets you just
> set until you feel the bar on the current rivet. By feel, move the
> rivet into the center of the bar, then tease the gun just enough to
> verify that you are on the rivet through both the feel and the sound the
> gun makes as it gently taps on the skin. Then give it, for me, three
> timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet. Three short bursts are
> easier for me to time than one long one. Once I leaned this sequence, I
> was able to rivet quite successfully without being able to see what I
> was doing.
>
> 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long
> handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of
> sight and being set by feel actually turned out.
>
> 8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest
> to someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you
> started the project and when you finished. That's how much time it
> took. Let the rest happen.
>
> Just some observations.
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
> do not archive
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Just some rambling in the wee hours, but be my guest. Edit as appropriate
and needed. Make sure you add Jim's comment about forming an impression of
the rivet's shop head on one's finger if you want to check it, cannot see
it, and don't have a mirror.
John
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Observations
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
John, do you mind if I post clip this and put it on my site?
Tim
do not archive
John Jessen wrote:
> Some general observations.
>
> 1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well,
> that's a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of
> pressure on riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad
> rivets has gone up dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact
riveting.
>
> 2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your
> gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth
> process of forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a
> sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just
> right. This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and
> sizes of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment.
> Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to
> reach rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real
nice.
> Perfect.
>
> 3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and
> so on makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of
> the builder is somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of
> riveting the HS, I am almost able to type, let alone make it without
> pain to the kitchen to build a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing
> those silver clecos begin to disappear, one by one, is worth it.
>
> 4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed,
> deburred, dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're
> close to finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it.
> It goes on and on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one
> bloody sentence in the manual can mean three days of work? But that's
> just fine, because you've decided that the challenge is in the rivet
> of the moment. You figure out that looking ahead is deadly. Just do
> the current rivet and when you're too tired to continue, take a seat,
> brew some tea or pop a brew and just look at the progress. The RV-10
> HS is pretty amazing for someone who has never built a plane before.
> You begin to imagine the VS and Rudder and HS all starting to make a
> plane. You begin to believe you just might be able to do this after all.
>
> 5. Motrin helps.
>
> 6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing
> similar projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help
> another builder. Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or
skill.
> For example, if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping
> around with your bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to
> rivet by feel, scrape the bucking bar gently across the rivets you
> just set until you feel the bar on the current rivet. By feel, move
> the rivet into the center of the bar, then tease the gun just enough
> to verify that you are on the rivet through both the feel and the
> sound the gun makes as it gently taps on the skin. Then give it, for
> me, three timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet. Three short
> bursts are easier for me to time than one long one. Once I leaned
> this sequence, I was able to rivet quite successfully without being
> able to see what I was doing.
>
> 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long
> handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of
> sight and being set by feel actually turned out.
>
> 8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest
> to someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you
> started the project and when you finished. That's how much time it
> took. Let the rest happen.
>
> Just some observations.
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
> do not archive
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We put two extra screws on the inboard edge of the lenses, one on the top
and one on the bottom. We felt the same way you did.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all the
two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of lenses
use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress crack
developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you overtighten the
screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the wingtip maybe
taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being paranoid, I have no
experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks like a weak point to me.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 11
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| Subject: | F-1010, F-1008R - Cracks in inner reinforce flange |
I think I might be one of the first people that informed Vans of this as they appeared
surprised when I mentioned it. Kit number 40188. I had cracks in the
lower portion of the forward tailcone bulkhead only. I sent pictures to Vans
so they could figure out what was causing it. They sent me a new part which
did not have any cracks in it.
Niko
"John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Tom, post to this list the individual at VAN's telling you that
stop-drilling corrects for using worn dies during the CNC manufacture.
Your kidding yourself if you buy off that the problem ends with a stop
drill.
This exact problem began in the kit #350 range and I can now conclude it
was not resolved by #475.
Quality parts should be a reasonable expectation on the 10. It has been
unfortunately too overlooked. Tom was the source of such direction back
near #350. Even the replacement part was cracked. Go Figure. Builders
in this series should know what to look for and request a correction.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Subject: RV10-List: F-1010, F-1008R - Cracks in inner reinforce flange
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele
While cleaning up the tailcone bulkheads, noticed a couple of small
cracks
in the F-1010 & F-1008R bulkheads in the inner stiffener flange that
appear
to have been caused while the parts were being pressed. The cracks are
very
small, probably only a few 1000ths thick and < 1/4" long so you really
need
to look closely, and are located in the top radius of the bulkheads.
I've kicked around replacing them, spoke to Vans who said not to worry
but
stop-drill the cracks if it gives me piece of mind. Probably will stop
drill
and put doubler on web (gross overkill but why not) but still undecided.
My question is has anyone else noticed this? If this is a common
occurrence,
then replacing the bulkhead won't accomplish anything and my decision is
easy.
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #40473 - Tailcone.
Message 12
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| Subject: | door securtiy kit |
Mine arrived to day unsolicited; 40168
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