---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 10/26/05: 12 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:10 AM - Observations (John Jessen) 2. 07:12 AM - Incidentals (Tim Olson) 3. 07:14 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Doerr, Ray R [NTK]) 4. 07:22 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Doerr, Ray R [NTK]) 5. 07:26 AM - Re: Incidentals (Tim Dawson-Townsend) 6. 07:42 AM - Re: Incidentals (John Cram) 7. 08:05 AM - Re: Observations (LessDragProd@aol.com) 8. 08:47 AM - Re: Observations (Tim Olson) 9. 09:20 AM - Re: Observations (John Jessen) 10. 09:54 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Jesse Saint) 11. 02:11 PM - Re: F-1010, F-1008R - Cracks in inner reinforce flange (Nikolaos Napoli) 12. 07:52 PM - door securtiy kit (David McNeill) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:10:56 AM PST US From: "John Jessen" Subject: RV10-List: Observations Some general observations. 1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well, that's a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of pressure on riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad rivets has gone up dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting. 2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth process of forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just right. This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and sizes of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment. Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to reach rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real nice. Perfect. 3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and so on makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of the builder is somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of riveting the HS, I am almost able to type, let alone make it without pain to the kitchen to build a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing those silver clecos begin to disappear, one by one, is worth it. 4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed, deburred, dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're close to finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it. It goes on and on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one bloody sentence in the manual can mean three days of work? But that's just fine, because you've decided that the challenge is in the rivet of the moment. You figure out that looking ahead is deadly. Just do the current rivet and when you're too tired to continue, take a seat, brew some tea or pop a brew and just look at the progress. The RV-10 HS is pretty amazing for someone who has never built a plane before. You begin to imagine the VS and Rudder and HS all starting to make a plane. You begin to believe you just might be able to do this after all. 5. Motrin helps. 6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing similar projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help another builder. Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or skill. For example, if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping around with your bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to rivet by feel, scrape the bucking bar gently across the rivets you just set until you feel the bar on the current rivet. By feel, move the rivet into the center of the bar, then tease the gun just enough to verify that you are on the rivet through both the feel and the sound the gun makes as it gently taps on the skin. Then give it, for me, three timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet. Three short bursts are easier for me to time than one long one. Once I leaned this sequence, I was able to rivet quite successfully without being able to see what I was doing. 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of sight and being set by feel actually turned out. 8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest to someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you started the project and when you finished. That's how much time it took. Let the rest happen. Just some observations. John Jessen 40328 HS do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:12:46 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Incidentals --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Another list member emailed me recently that they were keeping track of all of the incidentals and things that weren't in the kit...shipping, extra nuts and bolts from the hardware store, glues, and things like that. They're currently up to $5100 or so, working through the engine stage with a bunch of things left to go, so there will be a lot of other incidentals coming. That got me wondering where I came out. At this point, everything that I have left to buy is an incidental, and I'd never done any addition. My list isn't 100% complete either. So a quick rundown of my spreadsheet to remove things like engine, prop, all kit parts, including some things that I bought because I broke them, no tools, and all avionics, I have a rough total too. Mine does include paints, primers, and all those things....seat belts, lighting, and all that good stuff... even engine oil for the break in. My current total is $13,250 approx. I expect at least another $400-500, if not double or triple that much, as I complete the kit. (There are some extra nuts and bolts in there that I won't need, but it's nice to have a stock of them and it's not worth worrying about an extra $200-500 in hardware.) This all shouldn't be taken as a complaint at all, because I'm not intending to start a gripe about what isn't included....there are good reasons that these things are options for the most part. But, for those lurkers who are trying to come up with an estimate on kit costs, after purchasing the kit itself, these 2 data points might help form a good estimated starting point. Most of the costs are pretty predictible on the big items. I would caution the prospective builder though to not under estimate their panel and avionics costs. That's where you're most likely to blow your budget. Get a quote on what you think is a panel that fits you, and add $10,000 to it just in case...it goes fast. One word of warning....not everyone is comfortable with the idea of adding up their total kit costs, so think about it before you do it.....and then decide if you do, can you tell your wife. ;) -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:14:53 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtip lens From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" ON my RV-9 I have 4 on top and 4 on bottom, 2 along each side of the lense. I think I am going to put 3 on my RV-10, one in the corner like Van's says and then one extra one half way between the leading edge and the aft edge. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks like a weak point to me. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:22:01 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtip lens From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" Be careful before you put the nutplates too close to the leading edge because the curve on the outside of the tip will be different then the curve on the inside where the nutplates are. This can cause the screw to be at an angle to the outside surface and looks bad when you have to countersink the lense and the screw is sticking up on one side and countersunk too deep on the other. I would stay at least 2 - 3 inches back from the leading edge. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I just did my lenses tonight....post-painting. Have a tip, and want to comment on this thread. First, back on the riveting: Doing the lens fitting after painting (stupid me) I didn't want to risk riveting using pounded rivets. In fact, I think given the location, I'd rather never use pounded rivets in that location. I found my solution. I did everything as listed in the plans, including the nutplate orientation. But, then I substituted these rivets: CCR-264SS-3-2 We had them that I believe came with the tailcone section....don't know where they're supposed to be used. Anyway, they're heavy-duty rivets, but in this application, they aren't. What happens is when you pull the rivet, the fit isn't tight enough, especially in fiberglass, to snap the shaft. So, it expands the rivet shank, capturing the nutplate...then the shaft pulls right through. It should hold that nutplate plenty, with no worry since it's not structural anyway. Sure, the rivets are $.19 each, but it sure is more comfortable than hammering! Now, on to the thread... Yes John, after doing mine tonight, I totally agree with you that 2 screws, especially as placed, are not enough for me to be comfortable. There's a tiny bit of slop in the tip covers, and I can easily see that 200mph air sneaking under the front corner and ripping that thing right off. So, my plan is to order a few more of those rivets I mentioned above, and put in 2 more nutplates per side.... about 1/3 the way back from the leading edge, on top and bottom. Then I should feel pretty good about it, as the back side will not probably ever cause any problems. Part of that problem is made an issue because the lens doesn't make the same exact curve as that flange it rests on does. The lens contacts the corner of it, but isn't flush along the whole flange. Perhaps a tiny bit of heat on the lens, and a slight bend along the flange area to flush it up might help....I'm still considering it. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 John Hasbrouck wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" > > While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all > the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of > lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress > crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you > overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the > wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being > paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks > like a weak point to me. > > John Hasbrouck > #40264 > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:26:17 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incidentals From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Yeah, it's best to save your spreadsheet somewhere on the computer where your wife is not going to find it! Maybe give it a fake filename like "Baseball Stats" . . . : ) TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Incidentals --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Another list member emailed me recently that they were keeping track of all of the incidentals and things that weren't in the kit...shipping, extra nuts and bolts from the hardware store, glues, and things like that. They're currently up to $5100 or so, working through the engine stage with a bunch of things left to go, so there will be a lot of other incidentals coming. That got me wondering where I came out. At this point, everything that I have left to buy is an incidental, and I'd never done any addition. My list isn't 100% complete either. So a quick rundown of my spreadsheet to remove things like engine, prop, all kit parts, including some things that I bought because I broke them, no tools, and all avionics, I have a rough total too. Mine does include paints, primers, and all those things....seat belts, lighting, and all that good stuff... even engine oil for the break in. My current total is $13,250 approx. I expect at least another $400-500, if not double or triple that much, as I complete the kit. (There are some extra nuts and bolts in there that I won't need, but it's nice to have a stock of them and it's not worth worrying about an extra $200-500 in hardware.) This all shouldn't be taken as a complaint at all, because I'm not intending to start a gripe about what isn't included....there are good reasons that these things are options for the most part. But, for those lurkers who are trying to come up with an estimate on kit costs, after purchasing the kit itself, these 2 data points might help form a good estimated starting point. Most of the costs are pretty predictible on the big items. I would caution the prospective builder though to not under estimate their panel and avionics costs. That's where you're most likely to blow your budget. Get a quote on what you think is a panel that fits you, and add $10,000 to it just in case...it goes fast. One word of warning....not everyone is comfortable with the idea of adding up their total kit costs, so think about it before you do it.....and then decide if you do, can you tell your wife. ;) -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:42:49 AM PST US From: "John Cram" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Incidentals Now everyone knows where yours is. ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Dawson-Townsend To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:26 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Incidentals --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > Yeah, it's best to save your spreadsheet somewhere on the computer where your wife is not going to find it! Maybe give it a fake filename like "Baseball Stats" . . . : ) TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:11 AM To: RV10 Subject: RV10-List: Incidentals --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > Another list member emailed me recently that they were keeping track of all of the incidentals and things that weren't in the kit...shipping, extra nuts and bolts from the hardware store, glues, and things like that. They're currently up to $5100 or so, working through the engine stage with a bunch of things left to go, so there will be a lot of other incidentals coming. That got me wondering where I came out. At this point, everything that I have left to buy is an incidental, and I'd never done any addition. My list isn't 100% complete either. So a quick rundown of my spreadsheet to remove things like engine, prop, all kit parts, including some things that I bought because I broke them, no tools, and all avionics, I have a rough total too. Mine does include paints, primers, and all those things....seat belts, lighting, and all that good stuff... even engine oil for the break in. My current total is $13,250 approx. I expect at least another $400-500, if not double or triple that much, as I complete the kit. (There are some extra nuts and bolts in there that I won't need, but it's nice to have a stock of them and it's not worth worrying about an extra $200-500 in hardware.) This all shouldn't be taken as a complaint at all, because I'm not intending to start a gripe about what isn't included....there are good reasons that these things are options for the most part. But, for those lurkers who are trying to come up with an estimate on kit costs, after purchasing the kit itself, these 2 data points might help form a good estimated starting point. Most of the costs are pretty predictible on the big items. I would caution the prospective builder though to not under estimate their panel and avionics costs. That's where you're most likely to blow your budget. Get a quote on what you think is a panel that fits you, and add $10,000 to it just in case...it goes fast. One word of warning....not everyone is comfortable with the idea of adding up their total kit costs, so think about it before you do it.....and then decide if you do, can you tell your wife. ;) -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 igator?RV10-List> ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:05:04 AM PST US From: LessDragProd@aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Observations Hi John, Great observations! Suggest 7a.) When you can't see the bucked side of the rivet, press on it with your finger tip, and then look at your finger tip to see what the bucked side of the rivet looks like. Your finger tip makes a good transfer tool. Regards, Jim Ayers PS Watch for sharp edges, where the bucking bar wasn't fully on the rivet. In a message dated 10/26/2005 1:17:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jjessen@rcn.com writes: Some general observations. (Stuff Cut) 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of sight and being set by feel actually turned out. (Stuff Cut) Just some observations. John Jessen 40328 HS do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:47:19 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Observations --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson John, do you mind if I post clip this and put it on my site? Tim do not archive John Jessen wrote: > Some general observations. > > 1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well, that's > a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of pressure on > riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad rivets has gone > up dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting. > > 2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your > gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth > process of forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a > sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just > right. This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and sizes > of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment. > Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to reach > rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real nice. > Perfect. > > 3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and > so on makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of the > builder is somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of > riveting the HS, I am almost able to type, let alone make it without > pain to the kitchen to build a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing > those silver clecos begin to disappear, one by one, is worth it. > > 4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed, deburred, > dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're close to > finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it. It goes on > and on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one bloody sentence in > the manual can mean three days of work? But that's just fine, because > you've decided that the challenge is in the rivet of the moment. You > figure out that looking ahead is deadly. Just do the current rivet and > when you're too tired to continue, take a seat, brew some tea or pop a > brew and just look at the progress. The RV-10 HS is pretty amazing for > someone who has never built a plane before. You begin to imagine the VS > and Rudder and HS all starting to make a plane. You begin to believe > you just might be able to do this after all. > > 5. Motrin helps. > > 6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing similar > projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help another > builder. Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or skill. > For example, if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping > around with your bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to > rivet by feel, scrape the bucking bar gently across the rivets you just > set until you feel the bar on the current rivet. By feel, move the > rivet into the center of the bar, then tease the gun just enough to > verify that you are on the rivet through both the feel and the sound the > gun makes as it gently taps on the skin. Then give it, for me, three > timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet. Three short bursts are > easier for me to time than one long one. Once I leaned this sequence, I > was able to rivet quite successfully without being able to see what I > was doing. > > 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long > handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of > sight and being set by feel actually turned out. > > 8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest > to someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you > started the project and when you finished. That's how much time it > took. Let the rest happen. > > Just some observations. > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > do not archive ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:20:37 AM PST US From: "John Jessen" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Observations --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Just some rambling in the wee hours, but be my guest. Edit as appropriate and needed. Make sure you add Jim's comment about forming an impression of the rivet's shop head on one's finger if you want to check it, cannot see it, and don't have a mirror. John do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Observations --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson John, do you mind if I post clip this and put it on my site? Tim do not archive John Jessen wrote: > Some general observations. > > 1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well, > that's a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of > pressure on riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad > rivets has gone up dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting. > > 2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your > gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth > process of forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a > sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just > right. This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and > sizes of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment. > Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to > reach rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real nice. > Perfect. > > 3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and > so on makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of > the builder is somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of > riveting the HS, I am almost able to type, let alone make it without > pain to the kitchen to build a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing > those silver clecos begin to disappear, one by one, is worth it. > > 4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed, > deburred, dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're > close to finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it. > It goes on and on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one > bloody sentence in the manual can mean three days of work? But that's > just fine, because you've decided that the challenge is in the rivet > of the moment. You figure out that looking ahead is deadly. Just do > the current rivet and when you're too tired to continue, take a seat, > brew some tea or pop a brew and just look at the progress. The RV-10 > HS is pretty amazing for someone who has never built a plane before. > You begin to imagine the VS and Rudder and HS all starting to make a > plane. You begin to believe you just might be able to do this after all. > > 5. Motrin helps. > > 6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing > similar projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help > another builder. Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or skill. > For example, if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping > around with your bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to > rivet by feel, scrape the bucking bar gently across the rivets you > just set until you feel the bar on the current rivet. By feel, move > the rivet into the center of the bar, then tease the gun just enough > to verify that you are on the rivet through both the feel and the > sound the gun makes as it gently taps on the skin. Then give it, for > me, three timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet. Three short > bursts are easier for me to time than one long one. Once I leaned > this sequence, I was able to rivet quite successfully without being > able to see what I was doing. > > 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long > handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of > sight and being set by feel actually turned out. > > 8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest > to someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you > started the project and when you finished. That's how much time it > took. Let the rest happen. > > Just some observations. > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > do not archive ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:54:46 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtip lens --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" We put two extra screws on the inboard edge of the lenses, one on the top and one on the bottom. We felt the same way you did. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" While were on the subject of the wingtip lens, does it look to you all the two screws are enough? Every store bought plane with these types of lenses use multiple flush screws to hold the lens in place. If a stress crack developes at one of the screw holes, ( easy to do if you overtighten the screw) it wouldn't take long for the lens to depart the wingtip maybe taking some of the wingtip with it. Maybe I'm being paranoid, I have no experience with other Van's wingtips, but it looks like a weak point to me. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 02:11:41 PM PST US From: Nikolaos Napoli Subject: RE: RV10-List: F-1010, F-1008R - Cracks in inner reinforce flange I think I might be one of the first people that informed Vans of this as they appeared surprised when I mentioned it. Kit number 40188. I had cracks in the lower portion of the forward tailcone bulkhead only. I sent pictures to Vans so they could figure out what was causing it. They sent me a new part which did not have any cracks in it. Niko "John W. Cox" wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" Tom, post to this list the individual at VAN's telling you that stop-drilling corrects for using worn dies during the CNC manufacture. Your kidding yourself if you buy off that the problem ends with a stop drill. This exact problem began in the kit #350 range and I can now conclude it was not resolved by #475. Quality parts should be a reasonable expectation on the 10. It has been unfortunately too overlooked. Tom was the source of such direction back near #350. Even the replacement part was cracked. Go Figure. Builders in this series should know what to look for and request a correction. John - KUAO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele Subject: RV10-List: F-1010, F-1008R - Cracks in inner reinforce flange --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele While cleaning up the tailcone bulkheads, noticed a couple of small cracks in the F-1010 & F-1008R bulkheads in the inner stiffener flange that appear to have been caused while the parts were being pressed. The cracks are very small, probably only a few 1000ths thick and < 1/4" long so you really need to look closely, and are located in the top radius of the bulkheads. I've kicked around replacing them, spoke to Vans who said not to worry but stop-drill the cracks if it gives me piece of mind. Probably will stop drill and put doubler on web (gross overkill but why not) but still undecided. My question is has anyone else noticed this? If this is a common occurrence, then replacing the bulkhead won't accomplish anything and my decision is easy. Thanks, Tom Gesele #40473 - Tailcone. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:52:17 PM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: RV10-List: door securtiy kit Mine arrived to day unsolicited; 40168