RV10-List Digest Archive

Thu 10/27/05


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:00 AM - RV-10 24v Flap Positioning System ()
     2. 07:45 AM - Door check system (Randy's Abros mail)
     3. 10:05 AM - FAB box service letter (Tim Olson)
     4. 01:19 PM - Re: Cherry Blind Rivets (Dean Van Winkle)
     5. 05:42 PM - Builder in OKC? (Darton Steve)
     6. 06:08 PM - Re: Builder in OKC? (Jesse Saint)
     7. 08:23 PM - Plating steps question (Phil White)
     8. 08:37 PM - Re: Observations (Robert G. Wright)
     9. 08:58 PM - Re: FAB box service letter (DejaVu)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:00:38 AM PST US
    Subject: RV-10 24v Flap Positioning System
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com> FYI - If anyone is putting together a 24 volt ship, Show planes now makes a 24 volt flap position kit variant nearly identical to the one Van's sells for the RV-10. If you've already purchased a 12 volt FPS from Vans, contact Brian (541-773-3344). He can swap control boxes for a nominal fee. Jeremy Harris


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:45:19 AM PST US
    From: "Randy's Abros mail" <randy@abros.com>
    Subject: Door check system
    Rob do you know if the system that Van's came up with is the same one that is working with the AF2500 in 410RV? Randy


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:05:05 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: FAB box service letter
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Just saw on the general RV-List that the service letter previously written about the FAB (filtered air box?) has been updated this October. Apparently it isn't working out as well as previously thought. Everyone should read the bulletin at: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Fab-sb_05.pdf For those like me who live in the frozen Tundra for the next few months, doing this FAB Bypass is basically very good idea. Luckily I actually had just planned to start my FAB construction over the next week or two, so I quickly ordered my free kit today. They have a couple of different kits depending on if you already had the magnetic FAB bypass installed or not. More info is in the service bulletin. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:19:38 PM PST US
    From: "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
    Subject: Re: Cherry Blind Rivets
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle@royell.net> Dj While Wicks does not carry the specific rivets that you are looking for, on page 134 of the 2004-2005 catalog, they do carry 3/32 100 degree CS steel "Pop" rivets that I have used for nutplates in very close quarters. The ones that I used were CCR264SS-3-2, also available in -3,4, and 5 grip lengths, 14 and 16 cents ea. The stem is steel and the sleeve is cad plated steel. They also carry CCR264CS-3- rivets in the same grip lengths that have stainless steel stems and sleeves. These run 24 and 25 cents ea. Perhaps these might serve your purpose. Unless Vans are out of stock, they show AACQ-4-4 rivets in the 2005 catalog. They are used in the 7 and 9 canopy installation. They also list AACQ-4-3 rivets but no -4-2s. Dean Van Winkle RV-9A Fuselage/Finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cherry Blind Rivets > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu> > > Dj Merrill wrote: >> Hi all, >> I'm trying to find a source of Cherry Blind Rivets >> ("Pop" Rivets) specifically AACQ-3-2 or AAC-3-2. >> These are 3/32 dia by 1/8 length flush head rivets. >> I've checked Aircraft Spruce, Vans, Wicks, and even a >> Google search, but I can't find any aluminum flush rivets that are less >> than 1/8 inch dia. > > Hi all, > I haven't had much luck finding these rivets, unfortunately, > so I figured I would try the lists one more time. > I've tried sending a request to Aircraft Spruce, but no reply, > and I had one individual who indicated that he might be able > to get some for me, but after a couple of e-mails he hasn't replied > to any in over two weeks, so I thought perhaps it may be worth > putting out another inquiry to the group at large. > > I'm specifically looking for: > > AACQ-3-2 (preferred) or AAC-3-2, quant 100 > AACQ-4-2 quant 100 > AACQ-4-4 quant 100 > > I believe these are 100 degree flush blind rivets (someone > please correct me if I am wrong). > > Anyone have a catalog that might carry these, or > know of a distributor that I might contact? I'm sort of > stuck on my current project until I can locate some of these... > > Thanks, > > -Dj > > do not archive > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:42:20 PM PST US
    From: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Builder in OKC?
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> Any builders in the OKC area? I'm in town for an FAA class till 11/2. I'm willing to help or I would just like to stop by and meet another builder and see another project. Steve 40212 Wings __________________________________


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:08:05 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: Builder in OKC?
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> Steve, N256H #40241 will be in Tulsa on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday next week. I don't know what airport, but they are planning on going to Tulsa. I don't think they need any help, but you could check it out and may be able to talk Steve (Saint, that is) into giving you a ride if he is around and has time (or if you need a lift to Florida). Let me know and I can find out more details on where and when he will be there. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve Subject: RV10-List: Builder in OKC? --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> Any builders in the OKC area? I'm in town for an FAA class till 11/2. I'm willing to help or I would just like to stop by and meet another builder and see another project. Steve 40212 Wings


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:23:20 PM PST US
    From: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
    Subject: Plating steps question
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com> I want to have the steps for the -10 chrome plated to prevent rusting and match the polished aluminum that they will be mounted on. The 4130 steel tubing comes with some sort of protective coating that gives it a dark gray appearance. Can anyone tell me what is the recommended method of removing that coating? Polishing, or some chemical to dissolve it? Phil #40220 in IL (fuse @ 60%, wings & emp done)


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:37:13 PM PST US
    From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
    Subject: Observations
    John, I had the same feeling when I completed the H.S., that I actually had a good solid piece of airplane in my shop! Rob Wright #392 Waiting for Proseal to harden on the elevators. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Observations Some general observations. 1. Air pressure control is everything for good riveting. Well, that's a little strong, but now that I know about the effect of pressure on riveting, my ability to make good rivets and fewer bad rivets has gone up dramatically. I'm no longer banging and am now in fact riveting. 2. A good mass is also everything for good riveting. You've got your gun under control, now you need sufficient mass to insure a smooth process of forming the shop head. The problem is how to get a sufficient mass in some of those small spaces and positioned just right. This leads to many attempts with many different shapes and sizes of bucking bars, with many not so good rivets as you experiment. Finally, as you near the end of the particular row of difficult to reach rivets, you figure it out and the last 5 rivets out of 50 go real nice. Perfect. 3. All this contortion and odd angles and holding of bucking bars and so on makes a body very tired and aching. Especially if the age of the builder is somewhat advanced. This is good. After six hours of riveting the HS, I am almost able to type, let alone make it without pain to the kitchen to build a good G&T. But the satisfaction of seeing those silver clecos begin to disappear, one by one, is worth it. 4. Patience. You think just because you've drilled, reamed, deburred, dimpled, primed, made the jigs, swept the floor, that you're close to finishing such a piece of beauty that is the HS. Forget it. It goes on and on and on. How is it, you ask yourself, that one bloody sentence in the manual can mean three days of work? But that's just fine, because you've decided that the challenge is in the rivet of the moment. You figure out that looking ahead is deadly. Just do the current rivet and when you're too tired to continue, take a seat, brew some tea or pop a brew and just look at the progress. The RV-10 HS is pretty amazing for someone who has never built a plane before. You begin to imagine the VS and Rudder and HS all starting to make a plane. You begin to believe you just might be able to do this after all. 5. Motrin helps. 6. Most important of all, take a break. Visit with others doing similar projects. If able, grab a ride in an RV, any RV. Go help another builder. Give yourself an opportunity to learn another trick or skill. For example, if you can't see where your rivet is as you're groping around with your bucking bar deep within your HS, and you're trying to rivet by feel, scrape the bucking bar gently across the rivets you just set until you feel the bar on the current rivet. By feel, move the rivet into the center of the bar, then tease the gun just enough to verify that you are on the rivet through both the feel and the sound the gun makes as it gently taps on the skin. Then give it, for me, three timed bursts. A perfect set for a #3 rivet. Three short bursts are easier for me to time than one long one. Once I leaned this sequence, I was able to rivet quite successfully without being able to see what I was doing. 7. Go buy the auto mechanic's version of a dental mirror with a long handle. Makes a great tool to see how those rivets that were out of sight and being set by feel actually turned out. 8. Don't keep track of your hours. I suppose doing so is of interest to someone for reasons that I cannot understand. Record when you started the project and when you finished. That's how much time it took. Let the rest happen. Just some observations. John Jessen 40328 HS do not archive


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:58:26 PM PST US
    From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
    Subject: Re: FAB box service letter
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net> I did wonder about that little magnet.... and what do you know, I had just finished installing the bypass door. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com> Subject: RV10-List: FAB box service letter > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> > > Just saw on the general RV-List that the service letter previously > written about the FAB (filtered air box?) has been updated this > October. Apparently it isn't working out as well as previously > thought. Everyone should read the bulletin at: > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Fab-sb_05.pdf > > For those like me who live in the frozen Tundra for the next few > months, doing this FAB Bypass is basically very good idea. Luckily > I actually had just planned to start my FAB construction over the > next week or two, so I quickly ordered my free kit today. > > They have a couple of different kits depending on if you already > had the magnetic FAB bypass installed or not. More info > is in the service bulletin. > > Tim > > -- > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > >




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