Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - "What's my Contribution used for?" [PLEASE READ!] (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:18 AM - The DC ADIZ NPRM (alan@reichertech.com)
3. 04:52 AM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: Horsepower and Speed limits (Jesse Saint)
5. 06:30 AM - Re: Horsepower and Speed limits (Jesse Saint)
6. 06:33 AM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Jesse Saint)
7. 07:01 AM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
8. 07:11 AM - Re: Cleaveland Covers (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
9. 07:21 AM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Phillips, Jack)
10. 08:43 AM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
11. 12:07 PM - Re: no Aerosance FADEC planned (Chris Johnston)
12. 03:29 PM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Marcus Cooper)
13. 04:20 PM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (David McNeill)
14. 04:44 PM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Jerry Grimmonpre)
15. 05:45 PM - Re: Horsepower and Speed limits (Marcus Cooper)
16. 05:55 PM - Re: Door Warning Light Kit (Marcus Cooper)
17. 06:29 PM - Turbocharged RV10 (Rick Lark)
18. 06:45 PM - Re: Turbocharged RV10 (David McNeill)
19. 06:49 PM - Re: Turbocharged RV10 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
20. 07:10 PM - Re: no Aerosance FADEC planned (Kelly McMullen)
21. 08:29 PM - Re: Horsepower and Speed limits (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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| Subject: | "What's my Contribution used for?" [PLEASE READ!] |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?", and this is
certainly a valid question. Here are just a few examples of what
your direct List support enables. It provides for the very
expensive, business-class, high-speed T1 Internet connection used on
the List, insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when
accessing List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and
software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for
services such as the Archive Search Engine and List Browser. It pays
for 16+ years worth of online archive data available for instant
random access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing,
developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this
List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where
you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is
free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM,
and computer viruses. How many places on the Internet can you make
all those statements about these days? I will venture to say - next to none...
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many desirable
aspects of this most valuable List service. Please support it today
with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can
make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | The DC ADIZ NPRM |
--> RV10-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
Hello, All!
Please pardon this intrusion. This note is not specific to your
particular list, but regardless of what you are building, restoring, or
flying, an issue exists that could potentially affect all of you who fly
in the United States. That issue is the Washington DC ADIZ.
This ADIZ was put into effect as a temporary protective measure for
Washington DC airspace after 9/11. There is now an NPRM out to make this
airspace *permanent*.
The original comment period for this NPRM expired yesterday, November 2.
However, the FAA has now extended the comment period for another 90 days,
so if you did not get your comments in, HERE IS YOUR CHANCE!
Information on the ADIZ, and why we are fighting it, can be found here:
http://www.aopa.org/adizalert/
I live underneath the current DC ADIZ, so I get to play with this every
time I fly. The AOPA page above gives a good summary of what has happened
in this area since it's inception.
Help on formulating comments for this NPRM can be found here:
http://www.aopa.org/adizalert/help.html
Comments on this NPRM can be submitted (online) to the DOT here:
http://dms.dot.gov/submit/
Instructions on how to navigate and fill out the DOT page to submit your
comments are available here:
http://www.aopa.org/adizalert/faa_help.html
There are over 18000 comments against this NPRM at this time. If yours is
not one of them, please take the time now to submit your comments; every
one helps. If this ADIZ becomes permanent, then there could be an ADIZ
coming to an airspace near you in the future!
I thank Matt for allowing me to send this to you. Even if you don't live
near the DC area, please do what you can to protect your flying
priviledges... submit your comments!
Regards,
-- Alan Reichert
C-182 Driver/RV-8 Builder
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
One can also purchase LEDs with built-in blinker, so you could even have a blinking
red light when there is an unlatched door . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it gets your
attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know these days
about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued green light
quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact, didn't Rob Hickman
say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now that and the lights
would be great. It should be red light to green light, if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights would
be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you want,
you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors are closed
you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open
and magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red
LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the switches
so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My notice said
that the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that we wait for another
solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door
pins or just one?
TDT
40025
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:55 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that
Van's has been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got
from them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays
that were supplied...are incorrect to wire the system... We are in the process
of obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an
alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received
the kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they
sent out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when
they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 4
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| Subject: | Horsepower and Speed limits |
I just talked to Will James who is working on the -10 cowl. He said that
they have fit it to the first customer plane, but it is not flying yet. He
expects to have the plenum designed and available by the first of the year,
which will be required for their cowl. He didn't say that we would need a
prop extension, and said that the airbox would be just the standard Van's
airbox. He did say, however, that we would need a 14" spinner. On the cost
end, they estimate the cowl to cost $1,200 compared to Van's cowl at $1,050
(this was from his memory) and the plenum should be around $500 compared to
Van's baffles at about $235 (again his numbers). The biggest difference in
cost sounds like it will be the spinner. Van's spinner costs $200, but a
new 14" spinner from Hartzel costs $800 according to Will. He is "trying to
avoid getting into the spinner market", so I don't think we can expect a 14"
from him, so we might need to find a different source to cut down that $600
price difference. He said that he didn't want to quote performance
estimates yet because they haven't tested it, but he said there should be a
definite performance increase because the amount of air going into the
engine to cool it is much lower, which means less drag. He said that the
inlet ring sizes have proven sufficient to cool the 540's on Harmon Rockets,
so there shouldn't be any difference with the -10. He also said that there
shouldn't be the need to all of the air exit holes on the bottom of the cowl
because there won't be as much air passing through it.
I hope that answers most of the questions. That was all I could think of to
ask him at first. There isn't any information on his website, but if
anybody gets any new info, please post it.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Is there any feedback from RV -6, 7, and 8 builders that have used the "Holy
Cowl" confirming the 7 - 10 MPH increases advertised by James available?
_____
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Glad someone is getting some use out of that site. :-) Paul needs to do a
little work making the site more builder specific friendly, rather than the
whole lot of builders, but it's nice and easy.
Incidentally, I heard back from Will James and they are in fact well under
way with a new cowl and plenum for the -10. The new cowl will use a larger
14" spinner. He expects to have it in production after the first of the
year. He now has a link on their site with pictures. Looks good to me so
far and I'll be watching for them to begin selling. These are very popular
on the other RV's and can be spotted by the small round inlets. Based on
previous products, I will probably go with his cowl and scratch mine from
Van's order.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/RV-10_Plug.html
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Michael,
I'm with you. A compartment for ballast is a fantastic idea. I just hear a
lot of talk about putting an extra battery in the tail or putting the
battery further back in the tail that will be hard to adjust when flying
full. We actually thought of making a Aux Tank that would go in the baggage
area, which could also be used as ballast while not sacrificing fuel
quantity.
By the way, I've been enjoying following your progress on the KitLot
website.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Jesse,
Whoa there, I'm not putting more weight in the tail. I have built a
storage compartment (maybe 2lbs in materials) in the back of the aircraft
that could also be used as a more rear ward point for ballast IF needed.
The farther back you can get ballast the less you need. While your ship may
be a workhorse that fly's mostly loaded out near gross, many of us won't and
we will need some form of ballast so we don't run out of elevator authority
in a landing.
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
May I please suggest that you not do too much to commit yourself to more
weight in the tail before you have flown the thing? The last thing want in
our plane is more weight in the tail, at least the way we fly it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the $$
& complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more weight
in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast in the
back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more noticeable.
I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead cover that will
give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as much ballast plus I
get more storage.
I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that
adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for the
-10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his site
doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed 10 for a
while and there just isn't enough complete yet.
If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an
alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the same
but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start hitting
diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most increase out
of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction.
Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much until
we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is very good.
If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If I understand
other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control surfaces to increase
the magic number at which the plane shakes like a wet dog. Problem with
flutter is it
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information
as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural
strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as
turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make
maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing
TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10
faster?
====================================
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
====================================
Message 5
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| Subject: | Horsepower and Speed limits |
I just called to verify and there will NOT be a need for a prop hub
extension. Also, he said that he confirmed that the baffles from Van's cost
$360, so there will just be a $140 increase to go with his plenum. My main
hesitance there would be the lack of visibility of the top of the engine
when the top cowl is off. To get a quick look at the engine you would have
to take off the plenum, I guess. Is that worth the better and more even
cooling? It would be if it came with 7-10 additional mph in cruise, at
least to me.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Will it require an extension on the hub, if so there goes some more weight
forward.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder <mailto:rvbuilder@sausen.net> (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Glad someone is getting some use out of that site. :-) Paul needs to do a
little work making the site more builder specific friendly, rather than the
whole lot of builders, but it's nice and easy.
Incidentally, I heard back from Will James and they are in fact well under
way with a new cowl and plenum for the -10. The new cowl will use a larger
14" spinner. He expects to have it in production after the first of the
year. He now has a link on their site with pictures. Looks good to me so
far and I'll be watching for them to begin selling. These are very popular
on the other RV's and can be spotted by the small round inlets. Based on
previous products, I will probably go with his cowl and scratch mine from
Van's order.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/RV-10_Plug.html
Michael
do not archive
_____
Message 6
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| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you
could put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that
shipped out to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was to
have the red lights come on when there was a problem, not the other way
around, but I guess they started shipping before the finished testing. I
imagine it would be fairly easy to add a buzzer to the lights so when either
of them is powered on the buzzer will go off (you might need two buzzers).
The main question would be, "can the circuit handle enough current for the
light and the buzzer?" I know LED's don't draw almost any power, but I
don't know about a buzzer like the stall warning one. I am sure that a
small solenoid could be put in to solve that problem if the circuitry can't
handle the buzzer. I don't know if we will put this system in or not,
because (like Tim mentioned, I think) just having it in a pre-flight
checklist should be enough. Even with the warning system, you would
probably still want to check to make sure the door is properly latched and
secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it
gets your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know
these days about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued
green light quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact,
didn't Rob Hickman say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now
that and the lights would be great. It should be red light to green light,
if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights
would be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you
want, you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors
are closed you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open and
magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red
LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the
switches so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My
notice said that the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that
we wait for another solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for
each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com> Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just
one?
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has
been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from
them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were
supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of
obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an
alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the
kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent
out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when
they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 7
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| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
I thought about adding a small relay to open the wire to the starter
solenoid when the door is not latched. Thus you can't start the engine
unless it is engaged. On our RV-4 I used a multi colored red-green LED to
indicate if the pins were engaged and a microswitch with both NO & NC
contacts. It works, and turns from red to green when you latch the canopy,
but with the sun at your "6" you are shielding the LED with both hands and
pressing your face up to the panel. I was thinking of killing the starter
so that the LED would just remind you why the airplane won't start.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you
could put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that
shipped out to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was to
have the red lights come on when there was a problem, not the other way
around, but I guess they started shipping before the finished testing. I
imagine it would be fairly easy to add a buzzer to the lights so when either
of them is powered on the buzzer will go off (you might need two buzzers).
The main question would be, "can the circuit handle enough current for the
light and the buzzer?" I know LED's don't draw almost any power, but I
don't know about a buzzer like the stall warning one. I am sure that a
small solenoid could be put in to solve that problem if the circuitry can't
handle the buzzer. I don't know if we will put this system in or not,
because (like Tim mentioned, I think) just having it in a pre-flight
checklist should be enough. Even with the warning system, you would
probably still want to check to make sure the door is properly latched and
secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it
gets your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know
these days about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued
green light quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact,
didn't Rob Hickman say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now
that and the lights would be great. It should be red light to green light,
if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights
would be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you
want, you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors
are closed you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open and
magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red
LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the
switches so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My
notice said that the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that
we wait for another solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for
each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com> Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just
one?
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has
been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from
them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were
supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of
obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an
alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the
kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent
out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when
they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 8
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|
"'Condrey, Bob \(US SSA\)'" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
| Subject: | Cleaveland Covers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
As our prototype is completed they will do a "time study", at that time they
will give us pricing and we will place the order. I will let everyone know
the price as soon as possible.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Covers
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Estimated price?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
<mike@cleavelandtool.com>
We have the cover designed and are waiting for the first prototype from the
factory. I would guess we will have it mid November, then the first covers
for sale around the first of the year. They will be like the rest of our
covers and for travel only not for continued storage. They are very
lightweight and completely waterproof.
I am keeping a list of people interested, if you would like on that list,
please send me an email privately at mike@cleavelandtool.com
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Who needs to measure my plane? Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do
the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but
do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if
you want them in a hurry.
John Jessen
328 HS / Elevators
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
> We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this
> list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would
> really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar
whenever possible.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F:815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY
Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : )
TDT
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY
Thanks, James, for your help.
Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following
Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could
park in?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F:815-377-3694
Message 9
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| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
Maybe it doesn't get too hot in Iowa, but in North Carolina I frequently
don't close the canopy on my RV-4 before starting the engine. When I
had a Cherokee 180 I would usually taxi to the departure end of the
runway before closing and latching the door, just to keep from cooking
the cabin occupants. I don't think I would want to have to close the
doors before hitting the starter.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I thought about adding a small relay to open the wire to the starter
solenoid when the door is not latched. Thus you can't start the engine
unless it is engaged. On our RV-4 I used a multi colored red-green LED
to indicate if the pins were engaged and a microswitch with both NO & NC
contacts. It works, and turns from red to green when you latch the
canopy, but with the sun at your "6" you are shielding the LED with both
hands and pressing your face up to the panel. I was thinking of killing
the starter so that the LED would just remind you why the airplane won't
start.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you
could put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that
shipped out to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was
to have the red lights come on when there was a problem, not the other
way around, but I guess they started shipping before the finished
testing. I imagine it would be fairly easy to add a buzzer to the
lights so when either of them is powered on the buzzer will go off (you
might need two buzzers). The main question would be, "can the circuit
handle enough current for the light and the buzzer?" I know LED's don't
draw almost any power, but I don't know about a buzzer like the stall
warning one. I am sure that a small solenoid could be put in to solve
that problem if the circuitry can't handle the buzzer. I don't know if
we will put this system in or not, because (like Tim mentioned, I think)
just having it in a pre-flight checklist should be enough. Even with
the warning system, you would probably still want to check to make sure
the door is properly latched and secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it
gets your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we
know these days about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a
subdued green light quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative.
In fact, didn't Rob Hickman say he was putting a audible warning in his
product? Now that and the lights would be great. It should be red
light to green light, if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the
lights would be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated
that, if you want, you can replace the red lights with green ones, so
that when the doors are closed you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are
normally open and magnets that cause the switch to close when within
.8". there are two red LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were
supposed to reverse the switches so that when the doors were open the
red lights would be on. My notice said that the relays as supplied would
not work as expected so that we wait for another solution. Two switches
were to be wired in series for each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to
both door pins or just one?
TDT
40025
=09
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:55 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light
kit that Van's has been sending out, you might be interested in this
letter I just got from them (which some of you have probably already
gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The
two relays that were supplied...are incorrect to wire the system... We
are in the process of obtaining the correct relays and will contact you
when these parts or an alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had
never received the kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it
because the kits they sent out weren't going to work anyway, and they
would send out a new kit when they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
I definitely would not want the start inhibit on the -4. That canopy comes
open ASAP on hot days, we have a block in the roll bar to pin it partially
open. I may be wrong, I just assumed that the doors on the -10 couldn't
handle being open with the prop turning. Anyone try it yet?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips, Jack
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Maybe it doesn't get too hot in Iowa, but in North Carolina I frequently
don't close the canopy on my RV-4 before starting the engine. When I had a
Cherokee 180 I would usually taxi to the departure end of the runway before
closing and latching the door, just to keep from cooking the cabin
occupants. I don't think I would want to have to close the doors before
hitting the starter.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I thought about adding a small relay to open the wire to the starter
solenoid when the door is not latched. Thus you can't start the engine
unless it is engaged. On our RV-4 I used a multi colored red-green LED to
indicate if the pins were engaged and a microswitch with both NO & NC
contacts. It works, and turns from red to green when you latch the canopy,
but with the sun at your "6" you are shielding the LED with both hands and
pressing your face up to the panel. I was thinking of killing the starter
so that the LED would just remind you why the airplane won't start.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you
could put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that
shipped out to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was to
have the red lights come on when there was a problem, not the other way
around, but I guess they started shipping before the finished testing. I
imagine it would be fairly easy to add a buzzer to the lights so when either
of them is powered on the buzzer will go off (you might need two buzzers).
The main question would be, "can the circuit handle enough current for the
light and the buzzer?" I know LED's don't draw almost any power, but I
don't know about a buzzer like the stall warning one. I am sure that a
small solenoid could be put in to solve that problem if the circuitry can't
handle the buzzer. I don't know if we will put this system in or not,
because (like Tim mentioned, I think) just having it in a pre-flight
checklist should be enough. Even with the warning system, you would
probably still want to check to make sure the door is properly latched and
secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it
gets your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know
these days about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued
green light quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact,
didn't Rob Hickman say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now
that and the lights would be great. It should be red light to green light,
if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights
would be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you
want, you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors
are closed you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open and
magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red
LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the
switches so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My
notice said that the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that
we wait for another solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for
each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just
one?
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has
been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from
them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were
supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of
obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an
alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the
kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent
out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when
they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | no Aerosance FADEC planned |
Hey all -
After emailing several times to Aerosance, I figured it was about time
to do it the old fashioned way... Just got off the phone with someone
in the tech department at Aerosance, and they said that there was no
demand for the FADEC for the 540. After pressing a bit, he said that
unless marketing had some sort of epiphany, there wouldn't be a FADEC
for the 540 any time soon. I asked if one of the others could possibly
be adapted to work (assuming you could program and tune the spark & fuel
management) and he said that they would have to build the hardware etc.
for the 540, and that they don't have one. So effectively the guy said
that it's sort of permanently on the back burner. My attempt at "I'm
building an RV-10 and there's a big builder community that might be
interested blah blah blah..." seemed to fall on deaf ears. Bummer. I
thought it seemed to be a better way to go than Precision's offering.
More expensive, sure, but better. Anyone else planned to go FADEC?
cj
#40410
wings
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
I would definitely not want anything extra in line with the start circuit.
Besides the heat considerations, that would be one more potential failure
point that could ruin your day if you needed to kick the starter in flight
for some reason. Certainly not your day if needed, but that's often how
things go. Also would be frustrating if it failed while away from home,
although I suspect you could hotwire it in that case.
Another consideration would be to feed the wire to one of the EFIS or engine
monitors that many (most?) folks are using. I think most have an option for
some kind of switch warning and will provide an extra indicator.
Marcus
40286, looking forward to getting the lid on the fuselage once the workshop
is finished
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I thought about adding a small relay to open the wire to the starter
solenoid when the door is not latched. Thus you can't start the engine
unless it is engaged. On our RV-4 I used a multi colored red-green LED to
indicate if the pins were engaged and a microswitch with both NO & NC
contacts. It works, and turns from red to green when you latch the canopy,
but with the sun at your "6" you are shielding the LED with both hands and
pressing your face up to the panel. I was thinking of killing the starter
so that the LED would just remind you why the airplane won't start.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you
could put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that
shipped out to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was to
have the red lights come on when there was a problem, not the other way
around, but I guess they started shipping before the finished testing. I
imagine it would be fairly easy to add a buzzer to the lights so when either
of them is powered on the buzzer will go off (you might need two buzzers).
The main question would be, "can the circuit handle enough current for the
light and the buzzer?" I know LED's don't draw almost any power, but I
don't know about a buzzer like the stall warning one. I am sure that a
small solenoid could be put in to solve that problem if the circuitry can't
handle the buzzer. I don't know if we will put this system in or not,
because (like Tim mentioned, I think) just having it in a pre-flight
checklist should be enough. Even with the warning system, you would
probably still want to check to make sure the door is properly latched and
secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it
gets your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know
these days about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued
green light quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact,
didn't Rob Hickman say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now
that and the lights would be great. It should be red light to green light,
if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights
would be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you
want, you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors
are closed you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open and
magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red
LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the
switches so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My
notice said that the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that
we wait for another solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for
each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just
one?
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has
been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from
them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were
supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of
obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an
alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the
kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent
out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when
they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 13
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
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|
| Subject: | Re: Door Warning Light Kit |
can not use the extra 5th or 6th sensor in the EIS6000 if configured for the Chelton
system. GRT has responded in the negative
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I would definitely not want anything extra in line with the start circuit. Besides
the heat considerations, that would be one more potential failure point
that could ruin your day if you needed to kick the starter in flight for some
reason. Certainly not your day if needed, but that's often how things go. Also
would be frustrating if it failed while away from home, although I suspect
you could hotwire it in that case.
Another consideration would be to feed the wire to one of the EFIS or engine
monitors that many (most?) folks are using. I think most have an option for some
kind of switch warning and will provide an extra indicator.
Marcus
40286, looking forward to getting the lid on the fuselage once the workshop is
finished
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 10:02 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I thought about adding a small relay to open the wire to the starter solenoid
when the door is not latched. Thus you can't start the engine unless it is engaged.
On our RV-4 I used a multi colored red-green LED to indicate if the pins
were engaged and a microswitch with both NO & NC contacts. It works, and
turns from red to green when you latch the canopy, but with the sun at your "6"
you are shielding the LED with both hands and pressing your face up to the panel.
I was thinking of killing the starter so that the LED would just remind
you why the airplane won't start.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 8:33 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you could
put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that shipped out
to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was to have the red
lights come on when there was a problem, not the other way around, but I guess
they started shipping before the finished testing. I imagine it would be fairly
easy to add a buzzer to the lights so when either of them is powered on the
buzzer will go off (you might need two buzzers). The main question would be,
"can the circuit handle enough current for the light and the buzzer?" I know
LED's don't draw almost any power, but I don't know about a buzzer like the
stall warning one. I am sure that a small solenoid could be put in to solve that
problem if the circuitry can't handle the buzzer. I don't know if we will
put this system in or not, because (like Tim mentioned, I think) just having
it in a pre-flight checklist should be enough. Even with the warning system,
you would probably still want to check to make sure the door is properly latched
and secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 2:02 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it gets
your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know these days
about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued green light
quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact, didn't Rob Hickman
say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now that and the lights
would be great. It should be red light to green light, if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 9:17 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights would
be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you want,
you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors are closed
you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open and
magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red LEDs
and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the switches
so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My notice said that
the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that we wait for another
solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just
one?
TDT
40025
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:55 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has
been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from them
(which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were
supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of obtaining
the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an alternative
'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the
kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent out
weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when they get
it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Door Warning Light Kit |
Just put a micro switch on the throttle, completing a circuit at the throttle angle
representing run-up rpm.
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
can not use the extra 5th or 6th sensor in the EIS6000 if configured for the
Chelton system. GRT has responded in the negative
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I would definitely not want anything extra in line with the start circuit.
Besides the heat considerations, that would be one more potential failure point
that could ruin your day if you needed to kick the starter in flight for some
reason. Certainly not your day if needed, but that's often how things go.
Also would be frustrating if it failed while away from home, although I suspect
you could hotwire it in that case.
Another consideration would be to feed the wire to one of the EFIS or engine
monitors that many (most?) folks are using. I think most have an option for
some kind of switch warning and will provide an extra indicator.
Marcus
40286, looking forward to getting the lid on the fuselage once the workshop
is finished
Message 15
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| Subject: | Horsepower and Speed limits |
Any idea if just the plenum could be used with the stock cowl? Probably
have to redo the air intake to the plenum, but I understand sealing the top
of the engine is a much more efficient and consistent way of cooling the
cylinders.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
I just talked to Will James who is working on the -10 cowl. He said that
they have fit it to the first customer plane, but it is not flying yet. He
expects to have the plenum designed and available by the first of the year,
which will be required for their cowl. He didn't say that we would need a
prop extension, and said that the airbox would be just the standard Van's
airbox. He did say, however, that we would need a 14" spinner. On the cost
end, they estimate the cowl to cost $1,200 compared to Van's cowl at $1,050
(this was from his memory) and the plenum should be around $500 compared to
Van's baffles at about $235 (again his numbers). The biggest difference in
cost sounds like it will be the spinner. Van's spinner costs $200, but a
new 14" spinner from Hartzel costs $800 according to Will. He is "trying to
avoid getting into the spinner market", so I don't think we can expect a 14"
from him, so we might need to find a different source to cut down that $600
price difference. He said that he didn't want to quote performance
estimates yet because they haven't tested it, but he said there should be a
definite performance increase because the amount of air going into the
engine to cool it is much lower, which means less drag. He said that the
inlet ring sizes have proven sufficient to cool the 540's on Harmon Rockets,
so there shouldn't be any difference with the -10. He also said that there
shouldn't be the need to all of the air exit holes on the bottom of the cowl
because there won't be as much air passing through it.
I hope that answers most of the questions. That was all I could think of to
ask him at first. There isn't any information on his website, but if
anybody gets any new info, please post it.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Is there any feedback from RV -6, 7, and 8 builders that have used the "Holy
Cowl" confirming the 7 - 10 MPH increases advertised by James available?
_____
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Glad someone is getting some use out of that site. :-) Paul needs to do a
little work making the site more builder specific friendly, rather than the
whole lot of builders, but it's nice and easy.
Incidentally, I heard back from Will James and they are in fact well under
way with a new cowl and plenum for the -10. The new cowl will use a larger
14" spinner. He expects to have it in production after the first of the
year. He now has a link on their site with pictures. Looks good to me so
far and I'll be watching for them to begin selling. These are very popular
on the other RV's and can be spotted by the small round inlets. Based on
previous products, I will probably go with his cowl and scratch mine from
Van's order.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/RV-10_Plug.html
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Michael,
I'm with you. A compartment for ballast is a fantastic idea. I just hear a
lot of talk about putting an extra battery in the tail or putting the
battery further back in the tail that will be hard to adjust when flying
full. We actually thought of making a Aux Tank that would go in the baggage
area, which could also be used as ballast while not sacrificing fuel
quantity.
By the way, I've been enjoying following your progress on the KitLot
website.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Jesse,
Whoa there, I'm not putting more weight in the tail. I have built a
storage compartment (maybe 2lbs in materials) in the back of the aircraft
that could also be used as a more rear ward point for ballast IF needed.
The farther back you can get ballast the less you need. While your ship may
be a workhorse that fly's mostly loaded out near gross, many of us won't and
we will need some form of ballast so we don't run out of elevator authority
in a landing.
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
May I please suggest that you not do too much to commit yourself to more
weight in the tail before you have flown the thing? The last thing want in
our plane is more weight in the tail, at least the way we fly it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the $$
& complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more weight
in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast in the
back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more noticeable.
I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead cover that will
give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as much ballast plus I
get more storage.
I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that
adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for the
-10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his site
doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed 10 for a
while and there just isn't enough complete yet.
If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an
alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the same
but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start hitting
diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most increase out
of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction.
Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much until
we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is very good.
If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If I understand
other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control surfaces to increase
the magic number at which the plane shakes like a wet dog. Problem with
flutter is it
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information
as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural
strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as
turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make
maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing
TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10
faster?
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
Message 16
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| Subject: | Door Warning Light Kit |
Another of my great ideas shot down. The Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor I
built for my RV-6 had extra inputs for switch positions specifically
designed for canopy positions and similar uses. Seems like it would be a
simple process to put a normally closed switch on the latch mechanism and
tie it to a cockpit light. One for each door and then you could skip the
complexities that seem to have confused the folks at Vans with all the
relays. Of course one would think they would have tested it before shipping
to find out if it worked backwards ;)
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
can not use the extra 5th or 6th sensor in the EIS6000 if configured for the
Chelton system. GRT has responded in the negative
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper <mailto:coop85@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I would definitely not want anything extra in line with the start circuit.
Besides the heat considerations, that would be one more potential failure
point that could ruin your day if you needed to kick the starter in flight
for some reason. Certainly not your day if needed, but that's often how
things go. Also would be frustrating if it failed while away from home,
although I suspect you could hotwire it in that case.
Another consideration would be to feed the wire to one of the EFIS or engine
monitors that many (most?) folks are using. I think most have an option for
some kind of switch warning and will provide an extra indicator.
Marcus
40286, looking forward to getting the lid on the fuselage once the workshop
is finished
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I thought about adding a small relay to open the wire to the starter
solenoid when the door is not latched. Thus you can't start the engine
unless it is engaged. On our RV-4 I used a multi colored red-green LED to
indicate if the pins were engaged and a microswitch with both NO & NC
contacts. It works, and turns from red to green when you latch the canopy,
but with the sun at your "6" you are shielding the LED with both hands and
pressing your face up to the panel. I was thinking of killing the starter
so that the LED would just remind you why the airplane won't start.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Van's just said that IF you wanted to go ahead with the current kit, you
could put in the greens, but they are making a new kit and will get that
shipped out to their customers as soon as it is ready. Their goal was to
have the red lights come on when there was a problem, not the other way
around, but I guess they started shipping before the finished testing. I
imagine it would be fairly easy to add a buzzer to the lights so when either
of them is powered on the buzzer will go off (you might need two buzzers).
The main question would be, "can the circuit handle enough current for the
light and the buzzer?" I know LED's don't draw almost any power, but I
don't know about a buzzer like the stall warning one. I am sure that a
small solenoid could be put in to solve that problem if the circuitry can't
handle the buzzer. I don't know if we will put this system in or not,
because (like Tim mentioned, I think) just having it in a pre-flight
checklist should be enough. Even with the warning system, you would
probably still want to check to make sure the door is properly latched and
secure.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Ugh. Do it right. Make the lights come ON when there's a problem so it
gets your attention. I'm surprised they suggested that given all we know
these days about how the mind reacts to RED WARNING ON LIGHT vs.. a subdued
green light quietly going off. Don't accept this alternative. In fact,
didn't Rob Hickman say he was putting a audible warning in his product? Now
that and the lights would be great. It should be red light to green light,
if anything.
John Jessen
328 HS and Elevators
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I got the kit and the letter. The problem with the kit is that the lights
would be ON when the doors are closed. The letter also stated that, if you
want, you can replace the red lights with green ones, so that when the doors
are closed you get two green ones constantly ON.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
I have the kit it consists of 4 proximity switch that are normally open and
magnets that cause the switch to close when within .8". there are two red
LEDs and an automotive set of relays which were supposed to reverse the
switches so that when the doors were open the red lights would be on. My
notice said that the relays as supplied would not work as expected so that
we wait for another solution. Two switches were to be wired in series for
each door.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just
one?
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has
been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from
them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well).
"You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were
supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of
obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an
alternative 'fix' are available...."
I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the
kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent
out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when
they get it figured out.
FYI
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 17
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| Subject: | Turbocharged RV10 |
Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines.
As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out.
Regards, Rick
Lark CGEKJ
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Turbocharged RV10 |
For anyone considering a Cross you should contact Darwin Barrie at ktlkrn@cox.net
<ktlkrn@cox.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Lark
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10
Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines.
As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out.
Regards, Rick
Lark CGEKJ
Message 19
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| Subject: | Turbocharged RV10 |
Back when they were Bombardier, "V Aircraft Engines" had no plans to sell to kitbuilders
- they were going after the OEM market.
Maybe they've changed their tune. Anyone know anything?
TDT
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Rick Lark
Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10
Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines.
As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out.
Regards, Rick
Lark CGEKJ
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: no Aerosance FADEC planned |
Why would you want FADEC? Have you heard of GAMI's PRISM project? It would provide
total spark control including knock prevention, while letting you set mixture
and prop where you want. It will run all normally aspirated engines on 96UL
fuel. The don't have STC yet, and don't know if they would/could sell units
for homebuilt. Downside..requires on special spark plug per cylinder.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Johnston
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 1:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: no Aerosance FADEC planned
Hey all -
After emailing several times to Aerosance, I figured it was about time to do
it the old fashioned way. Just got off the phone with someone in the tech department
at Aerosance, and they said that there was no demand for the FADEC for
the 540. After pressing a bit, he said that unless marketing had some sort of
epiphany, there wouldn't be a FADEC for the 540 any time soon. I asked if one
of the others could possibly be adapted to work (assuming you could program
and tune the spark & fuel management) and he said that they would have to build
the hardware etc. for the 540, and that they don't have one. So effectively
the guy said that it's sort of permanently on the back burner. My attempt at
"I'm building an RV-10 and there's a big builder community that might be interested
blah blah blah." seemed to fall on deaf ears. Bummer. I thought it
seemed to be a better way to go than Precision's offering. More expensive, sure,
but better. Anyone else planned to go FADEC?
cj
#40410
wings
Message 21
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| Subject: | Horsepower and Speed limits |
I didn't ask that. I really don't know the difference between the baffles
and the plenum. I think the current baffles do a pretty good job of sealing
agains the upper cowl, but I think the plenum is designed and shaped to more
evenly distribute the cooling for all cylinders. Also, with smaller cooling
holes in the cowl, there is less air so none can be wasted. I imagine you
may be able to find a way to convert from the standard cowl to the plenum,
but I think it would be a lot of work and probably not very helpful. I
think the plenum is necessary because of the different shape of the new cowl
and because there is less air making it to the engine. I am sure Will would
be happy to give more detail on how that might work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Any idea if just the plenum could be used with the stock cowl? Probably
have to redo the air intake to the plenum, but I understand sealing the top
of the engine is a much more efficient and consistent way of cooling the
cylinders.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
I just talked to Will James who is working on the -10 cowl. He said that
they have fit it to the first customer plane, but it is not flying yet. He
expects to have the plenum designed and available by the first of the year,
which will be required for their cowl. He didn't say that we would need a
prop extension, and said that the airbox would be just the standard Van's
airbox. He did say, however, that we would need a 14" spinner. On the cost
end, they estimate the cowl to cost $1,200 compared to Van's cowl at $1,050
(this was from his memory) and the plenum should be around $500 compared to
Van's baffles at about $235 (again his numbers). The biggest difference in
cost sounds like it will be the spinner. Van's spinner costs $200, but a
new 14" spinner from Hartzel costs $800 according to Will. He is "trying to
avoid getting into the spinner market", so I don't think we can expect a 14"
from him, so we might need to find a different source to cut down that $600
price difference. He said that he didn't want to quote performance
estimates yet because they haven't tested it, but he said there should be a
definite performance increase because the amount of air going into the
engine to cool it is much lower, which means less drag. He said that the
inlet ring sizes have proven sufficient to cool the 540's on Harmon Rockets,
so there shouldn't be any difference with the -10. He also said that there
shouldn't be the need to all of the air exit holes on the bottom of the cowl
because there won't be as much air passing through it.
I hope that answers most of the questions. That was all I could think of to
ask him at first. There isn't any information on his website, but if
anybody gets any new info, please post it.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Is there any feedback from RV -6, 7, and 8 builders that have used the "Holy
Cowl" confirming the 7 - 10 MPH increases advertised by James available?
_____
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Glad someone is getting some use out of that site. :-) Paul needs to do a
little work making the site more builder specific friendly, rather than the
whole lot of builders, but it's nice and easy.
Incidentally, I heard back from Will James and they are in fact well under
way with a new cowl and plenum for the -10. The new cowl will use a larger
14" spinner. He expects to have it in production after the first of the
year. He now has a link on their site with pictures. Looks good to me so
far and I'll be watching for them to begin selling. These are very popular
on the other RV's and can be spotted by the small round inlets. Based on
previous products, I will probably go with his cowl and scratch mine from
Van's order.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/RV-10_Plug.html
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Michael,
I'm with you. A compartment for ballast is a fantastic idea. I just hear a
lot of talk about putting an extra battery in the tail or putting the
battery further back in the tail that will be hard to adjust when flying
full. We actually thought of making a Aux Tank that would go in the baggage
area, which could also be used as ballast while not sacrificing fuel
quantity.
By the way, I've been enjoying following your progress on the KitLot
website.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Jesse,
Whoa there, I'm not putting more weight in the tail. I have built a
storage compartment (maybe 2lbs in materials) in the back of the aircraft
that could also be used as a more rear ward point for ballast IF needed.
The farther back you can get ballast the less you need. While your ship may
be a workhorse that fly's mostly loaded out near gross, many of us won't and
we will need some form of ballast so we don't run out of elevator authority
in a landing.
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
May I please suggest that you not do too much to commit yourself to more
weight in the tail before you have flown the thing? The last thing want in
our plane is more weight in the tail, at least the way we fly it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the $$
& complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more weight
in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast in the
back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more noticeable.
I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead cover that will
give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as much ballast plus I
get more storage.
I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that
adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for the
-10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his site
doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed 10 for a
while and there just isn't enough complete yet.
If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an
alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the same
but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start hitting
diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most increase out
of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction.
Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much until
we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is very good.
If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If I understand
other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control surfaces to increase
the magic number at which the plane shakes like a wet dog. Problem with
flutter is it
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information
as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural
strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as
turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make
maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing
TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10
faster?
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