Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:51 AM - Re: (Deems Davis)
2. 04:31 AM - Re: (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
3. 06:26 AM - Re: I Need to Borrow an Engine Mount (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
4. 07:22 AM - Re: Time for full empennage completion (Tim Olson)
5. 08:19 AM - Re: Time for full empennage completion (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 08:45 AM - Re: Time for full empennage completion (Mark Ritter)
7. 09:20 AM - Re: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn (Rick)
8. 09:26 AM - Re: Time for full empennage completion (Tim Olson)
9. 09:31 AM - Re: Time for full empennage completion (John Jessen)
10. 10:22 AM - Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming (Byron Gillespie)
11. 10:28 AM - RV 10 tail kit for sale (rlaviation@aol.com)
12. 10:51 AM - Re: RV 10 tail kit for sale (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
13. 11:00 AM - Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming (Tim Olson)
14. 11:22 AM - Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming (Byron Gillespie)
15. 11:36 AM - Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming (Jesse Saint)
16. 11:41 AM - Re: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn (Russell Daves)
17. 01:32 PM - Carrying Long Items (John Jessen)
18. 01:34 PM - Re: Flap Position Indicator (Randy DeBauw)
19. 01:40 PM - Re: (Randy DeBauw)
20. 01:49 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
21. 01:54 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Deems Davis)
22. 02:32 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
23. 02:38 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
24. 03:01 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
25. 03:06 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Jeff Carpenter)
26. 06:32 PM - Fw: Turbo RV10 (Sandra & Rick Lark)
27. 06:43 PM - troubleshooting - power loss (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
28. 07:09 PM - Re: troubleshooting - power loss (linn walters)
29. 07:15 PM - Re: troubleshooting - power loss (Dj Merrill)
30. 07:28 PM - Re: troubleshooting - power loss (Bowen Miles)
31. 09:31 PM - Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming (DejaVu)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: : RV10-List: |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Paul go to:
www.deemsrv10.com
click on construction log and you will find a detailed account organized
by plan page and step of how long I took on the Empcone.
Bill curtis also has a similar log @
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Caution different people measure and account for their time differently,
as well as some just work faster than others.
Deems Davis # 406
Wing - FuelTanks
http://deemsrv10.com/
Paul Walter wrote:
> Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage
> section on the 10.
>
> Thanks Guys
>
>
> Paul Walter
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I seem to work faster than average but everything through the emp & wings was
about 400 hours. Not priming most parts but alodining everything. That makes
a big difference in time as priming eats ton's of time.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 waiting on fuse/odds & ends
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Paul go to:
www.deemsrv10.com
click on construction log and you will find a detailed account organized by plan
page and step of how long I took on the Empcone.
Bill curtis also has a similar log @
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Caution different people measure and account for their time differently, as well
as some just work faster than others.
Deems Davis # 406
Wing - FuelTanks
http://deemsrv10.com/
Paul Walter wrote:
> Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage
> section on the 10.
>
> Thanks Guys
>
>
> Paul Walter
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | I Need to Borrow an Engine Mount |
Dave Call me at work 724-588-2000 *2408 and we can discuss options
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Hertner
Subject: RV10-List: I Need to Borrow an Engine Mount
RV-10 Listers,
I am one of those people who want to put an alternative engine in my
RV-10. To do this I need to do a bunch of engineering on the area ahead
of the firewall. I called Van's the other day and I was successful in
ordeing a separate firewall. I need this as a reference point as I am
currently working on the empennage kit. At the same time, I tried to
order a separate engine mount so that I could get working on the
modifications necessary to mount a different engine. They politely,
through the girl at the parts order desk declined to sell me that item.
They initially stated that there was going to be some interminable wait
for the thing in an effort to dissuade me but when I pushed for
clarification the girl relented and simply said that the mount would
only be available as a part of one of the kits.
The important thing for me is to get exact measurements for the
front landing gear mount. As I am not going to be able to purchase it, I
guess that I will need to construct a completely new mount including the
landing gear attachment assembly.
I am looking for one of you sympathetic builders out there who would
be willing to loan me their engine mount for a couple of weeks so that I
can get the information I need to proceed. I would be willing to pay all
shipping costs as well as make a donation towards the speedy completion
of your project.
I do not want this to turn into a debate about the validity of
putting an alternative engine in the RV-10. I simply want to follow my
passion. If you would like to help me out I would appreciate that you
contact me off-line.
Dave Hertner
London Ontario
Canada
effectus (at) rogers (dot) com
Do Not Archive
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Time for full empennage completion |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Paul,
You should finish in exactly 254.5 hours. Just speed up or slow down
your work on the last few steps as necessary to hit the target
timeline. ;)
Sorry, I just had to do that....you've already got some great replies.
It will vary by an extreme amount between ends of the spectrum. I, like
Michael Sausen, seem to build a little faster than most, but his time
quoted for everything thru wings is way faster than mine. I'm guessing
about 550-600 hours gets me thru the wings. Maybe 25--275 for the
tail kit.
Oh, and to put a perspective on it, when you finish the tail kit,
figure that you're now maybe 15% done with the kit....I'm finding
that these days I'm working harder and more diligently than ever,
yet the stuff that you do AFTER the fuselage kit really makes
all that initial assembly of parts seem lightning fast and
lots of fun.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Paul Walter wrote:
> Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage
> section on the 10.
>
> Thanks Guys
>
>
> Paul Walter
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Time for full empennage completion |
Yes, I've mastered part of space-time and figured out how to slow clock time down.
Now if I could just speed it up to being done! :-)
Seriously though, not sure why I seem to average on the fast side. I'm usually
pretty good at logging all of my time so I doubt that's it. I still believe
a lot of it is in the specialty tools like the Cogsdill and the DRDT-2. I know
my Tech Counselor was surprised how quick I'm getting through it when he visited
last weekend (he didn't see any problems incidentally so that's not it
either). I think I really started making big strides when I started working on
it for 2 hours every morning before work and also a good 10-15 hours on the
weekends. Keeps things fresh in my head so I don't spend great deals of time
re-reading the plans. That and I have no outside help so I'm not usually distracted
by anything. At the rate I'm going I will have the airframe done in about
a year from start to finish. I think I'm fairly in line with Tim's hours
though if you add in the priming exercise.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Time for full empennage completion
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Paul,
You should finish in exactly 254.5 hours. Just speed up or slow down your work
on the last few steps as necessary to hit the target timeline. ;)
Sorry, I just had to do that....you've already got some great replies.
It will vary by an extreme amount between ends of the spectrum. I, like Michael
Sausen, seem to build a little faster than most, but his time quoted for everything
thru wings is way faster than mine. I'm guessing about 550-600 hours
gets me thru the wings. Maybe 25--275 for the tail kit.
Oh, and to put a perspective on it, when you finish the tail kit, figure that you're
now maybe 15% done with the kit....I'm finding that these days I'm working
harder and more diligently than ever, yet the stuff that you do AFTER the fuselage
kit really makes all that initial assembly of parts seem lightning fast
and lots of fun.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Paul Walter wrote:
> Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage
> section on the 10.
>
> Thanks Guys
>
>
> Paul Walter
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Time for full empennage completion |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Russ,
I considered that path but it won't fit in my garage.
I like experimental stuff but turbines, Mazdas, etc. are not my cup-O-tea.
It would be great to have a viable fix for the rumored upcoming 100 LL crisis other
than turbines, diesels or auto engines. Maybe someone can invent a can of
100LL upgrade additive so all we would have to do is fill up with good ol' 87
octane auto fuel and add the can of 100 LL upgrade, heck it may already exist
for all I know.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
do not archive
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Time for full empennage completion |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You could always just use the excuse that you're taking extra time to
give the project the extra care it needs for perfection. Tell 'em
yours will be of much higher quality. ;) Or, another one....just
say that you're purposely going slow to allow some of the other
builders to "work out the bugs" so that your kit build goes better.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> I'm helping keep the average building time high to offset Tim and
> Michael but whose counting? I am an above driver-- like most folks.
>
> Mark #40043
>
>
> From: /Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>/
> Reply-To: /rv10-list@matronics.com/
> To: /rv10-list@matronics.com/
> Subject: /Re: RV10-List: Time for full empennage completion/
> Date: /Tue, 08 Nov 2005 09:22:30 -0600/
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> >Paul,
> >
> >You should finish in exactly 254.5 hours. Just speed up or slow
> >down
> >your work on the last few steps as necessary to hit the target
> >timeline. ;)
> >
> >Sorry, I just had to do that....you've already got some great
> >replies.
> >It will vary by an extreme amount between ends of the spectrum. I,
> >like
> >Michael Sausen, seem to build a little faster than most, but his
> >time
> >quoted for everything thru wings is way faster than mine. I'm
> >guessing
> >about 550-600 hours gets me thru the wings. Maybe 25--275 for the
> >tail kit.
> >
> >Oh, and to put a perspective on it, when you finish the tail kit,
> >figure that you're now maybe 15% done with the kit....I'm finding
> >that these days I'm working harder and more diligently than ever,
> >yet the stuff that you do AFTER the fuselage kit really makes
> >all that initial assembly of parts seem lightning fast and
> >lots of fun.
> >
> >Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> >
> >
> >
> >Paul Walter wrote:
> >>Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of
> >>empenage section on the 10.
> >> Thanks Guys
> >> Paul
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Time for full empennage completion |
As I was doing non-airplane work last night (adding the bottom shelf to my
large workbench, hanging the blinds for the window, labeling my storage
bins, cleaning and cleaning) between Chapters (finished the HS and it's on
the wall), I was thinking about this very same topic. I don't typically
record my hours, although I do try to, but it's just not important to me. I
know that when I'm not traveling on business or have other obligations, like
all of us do, I work 2 or 3 hours a night and at least 12 hours on the
weekends. I'm trying to average 15-20 hours per week.
I do know, given those that have gone before me, approximately what number
of hours, months or years it will take to get off the ground, and I guess I
could have some interest in a comparison between myself and my building
neighbors, such as Bruce B or Randy D. All I know is Randy is flying and
Bruce is a couple of work sessions behind me. All I also know is that I
work on it every chance I get and twice on Sundays, and thus I can't go any
faster, unless I invite help, which I am curiously not doing. Maybe I want
to be the one to take the blame for all the dents?
I'm trying to get it done as fast as I can because I want to have the thrill
of flying it and flying it and flying it everywhere. But when I think of
the hours and days and weeks and maybe years that stand between me and first
flight, I just turn my attention back to the deburring at hand, because when
it's 52 degrees in the hanger and you've got a pile of aluminum to deburr,
the entire task of building a 4-seat, 200 mph airplane can seem rather
daunting. It's good to know that others have finished it and thus so can I.
My way of thinking and managing my impatience is this: I officially started
the project on May 15, 2005, and I will know when I'm "done" when that first
flight could happen because it's an airplane, with all the components
finished and working (not first flight, because all kinds of things can make
you sit and wait for that). That's how long it took me to build the plane.
I'll go back and add up the hours, inaccurate as they are, just for the
record, but if I am able to fly the thing on May 15, 2007, it took me two
years to build. At that point, I don't care how many hours. I put in the
hours I had to to make it happen. To each his or her own journey.
John Jessen
-328 HS on wall, skipping merrily past the elevators and to the cone,
just for the fun of it and to get something really big built.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Time for full empennage completion
Yes, I've mastered part of space-time and figured out how to slow clock
time down. Now if I could just speed it up to being done! :-)
Seriously though, not sure why I seem to average on the fast side. I'm
usually pretty good at logging all of my time so I doubt that's it. I still
believe a lot of it is in the specialty tools like the Cogsdill and the
DRDT-2. I know my Tech Counselor was surprised how quick I'm getting
through it when he visited last weekend (he didn't see any problems
incidentally so that's not it either). I think I really started making big
strides when I started working on it for 2 hours every morning before work
and also a good 10-15 hours on the weekends. Keeps things fresh in my head
so I don't spend great deals of time re-reading the plans. That and I have
no outside help so I'm not usually distracted by anything. At the rate I'm
going I will have the airframe done in about a year from start to finish. I
think I'm fairly in line with Tim's hours though if you add in the priming
exercise.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Time for full empennage completion
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Paul,
You should finish in exactly 254.5 hours. Just speed up or slow down your
work on the last few steps as necessary to hit the target timeline. ;)
Sorry, I just had to do that....you've already got some great replies.
It will vary by an extreme amount between ends of the spectrum. I, like
Michael Sausen, seem to build a little faster than most, but his time quoted
for everything thru wings is way faster than mine. I'm guessing about
550-600 hours gets me thru the wings. Maybe 25--275 for the tail kit.
Oh, and to put a perspective on it, when you finish the tail kit, figure
that you're now maybe 15% done with the kit....I'm finding that these days
I'm working harder and more diligently than ever, yet the stuff that you do
AFTER the fuselage kit really makes all that initial assembly of parts seem
lightning fast and lots of fun.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Paul Walter wrote:
> Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage
> section on the 10.
>
> Thanks Guys
>
>
> Paul Walter
====================================
This Month --
Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
on
www.buildersbooks.com,
www.kitlog.com, and
www.homebuilthelp.com!
">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====================================
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
====================================
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Canopy Dorr Trimming |
Question for Tim or any of the others working on or completed the canopy
door trimming.... If I understand the comments and photos, the top and
side lips form a "U" channel (to help water drain?) with the cut edge
facing the door. The bottom appears to be cut lower - without a channel
with the cut edge perpendicular to the door. Is this a correct
assessment?
I don't have my doors yet (finishing kit due next month) and wanted to
get some of the heavy cutting and grinding out of the way before
attaching the canopy to the fuselage.
Any help/advise is appreciated. Photo attached showing what I believe to
be the correct cut lines.
Thanks,
Byron Canopy mating to fuselage #40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
This is very hard to explain....and I can tell from your description
that it's hard to interpret too. You're right, there isn't much
guidance on that cut.
What you kind of want is this: When you close the door, picture the
cut face laying against the door itself. So in all cases almost, the
angle of the plane you cut in, will match the angle of the inner
surface of the door. On the bottom, I found myself cutting more than
that, which was unnecessary........
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV 10 tail kit for sale |
Hello everyone,
I have a completed RV 10 tail kit for sale.
Price is 4,235.00 plus shipping and handling.
Have lost interest in the project. Tail kit is being stored at Flight Crafters
in Tampa, Florida.
Contact Russell Lepre at 813-655-6411 for more information.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV 10 tail kit for sale |
That is a good deal for someone wanting to quick start a quick build! By
completed do you mean fiberglass, rigging. no lose parts? I will keep my
ear to the wall for you. Do you have photos?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rlaviation@aol.com
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale
Hello everyone,
I have a completed RV 10 tail kit for sale.
Price is 4,235.00 plus shipping and handling.
Have lost interest in the project. Tail kit is being stored at Flight
Crafters in Tampa, Florida.
Contact Russell Lepre at 813-655-6411 for more information.
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Byron,
That sounds about right....(your description of the cuts on the channel)
I wouldn't worry about getting too carried away with trimming that
channel though until you get your doors. It's easily done with
a die grinder and coarse sanding wheel (1.5" or so) You probably want
to see the fit and trim only what's necessary....but remember if you
fabric cover the doors you'll need to trim even more later.
That photo isn't too awful, but I can't tell real well how much you left
on the bottom lip. If you don't have about .75" to 1" sticking up,
you're probably cutting too much.....but it's hart to say by the photo.
If that's the definite scribe line, then you're probably in the right
range though. If it were me, I'd play it safe and just hold off
a bit before you trim it too far down though....the canopy would
be an expensive replacement part, and a real pain to build up if you
cut too far.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Byron Gillespie wrote:
> Question for Tim or any of the others working on or completed the canopy
> door trimming.... If I understand the comments and photos, the top and
> side lips form a "U" channel (to help water drain?) with the cut edge
> facing the door. The bottom appears to be cut lower - without a channel
> with the cut edge perpendicular to the door. Is this a correct
> assessment?
>
> I don't have my doors yet (finishing kit due next month) and wanted to
> get some of the heavy cutting and grinding out of the way before
> attaching the canopy to the fuselage.
>
> Any help/advise is appreciated. Photo attached showing what I believe to
> be the correct cut lines.
>
> Thanks,
> Byron Canopy mating to fuselage #40253
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 12:44 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> This is very hard to explain....and I can tell from your description
> that it's hard to interpret too. You're right, there isn't much
> guidance on that cut.
>
> What you kind of want is this: When you close the door, picture the
> cut face laying against the door itself. So in all cases almost, the
> angle of the plane you cut in, will match the angle of the inner
> surface of the door. On the bottom, I found myself cutting more than
> that, which was unnecessary........
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Canopy Dorr Trimming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds about right - mine is scribed at
0.85" up from the inside of lip. I could see the factory scribe line but
it looked drunk - weaving up and down. I finally scribed an "average"
line even with the bottom mating surface - at least that one is
straight. On the sides I'll trim enough to countersink the screw holes
and leave the rest for later.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Thanks again,
Byron - Canopy mating to fuselage #40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Byron,
That sounds about right....(your description of the cuts on the channel)
I wouldn't worry about getting too carried away with trimming that
channel though until you get your doors. It's easily done with
a die grinder and coarse sanding wheel (1.5" or so) You probably want
to see the fit and trim only what's necessary....but remember if you
fabric cover the doors you'll need to trim even more later......
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Canopy Dorr Trimming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Byron,
I think we trimmed all of the channel so the flat would be up against the
door. That actually helps seal the door as well.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Gillespie
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
Question for Tim or any of the others working on or completed the canopy
door trimming.... If I understand the comments and photos, the top and
side lips form a "U" channel (to help water drain?) with the cut edge
facing the door. The bottom appears to be cut lower - without a channel
with the cut edge perpendicular to the door. Is this a correct
assessment?
I don't have my doors yet (finishing kit due next month) and wanted to
get some of the heavy cutting and grinding out of the way before
attaching the canopy to the fuselage.
Any help/advise is appreciated. Photo attached showing what I believe to
be the correct cut lines.
Thanks,
Byron Canopy mating to fuselage #40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
This is very hard to explain....and I can tell from your description
that it's hard to interpret too. You're right, there isn't much
guidance on that cut.
What you kind of want is this: When you close the door, picture the
cut face laying against the door itself. So in all cases almost, the
angle of the plane you cut in, will match the angle of the inner
surface of the door. On the bottom, I found myself cutting more than
that, which was unnecessary........
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Rick:
You can endorse the logbook on the IO-540 "60 Gallons total fuel, 58 gallons
usable, 100LL or 93 Octane Auto Gas Approved"
If 100LL goes by the way just use 93 Octane Auto Gas instead. Only
potential problem woud possible be vapor lock if you had a quick turnaround.
If it was going to be real quick you could always pull the prop back to
about 600 rpm and make the passengers get in and out without shutting down.
I ran regular autogas in a C-182 for over 1000 hours and never had a problem
but it had a carb.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Russ,
>
> I considered that path but it won't fit in my garage.
>
> I like experimental stuff but turbines, Mazdas, etc. are not my
> cup-O-tea.
>
> It would be great to have a viable fix for the rumored upcoming 100 LL
> crisis other than turbines, diesels or auto engines. Maybe someone can
> invent a can of 100LL upgrade additive so all we would have to do is fill
> up with good ol' 87 octane auto fuel and add the can of 100 LL upgrade,
> heck it may already exist for all I know.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuselage
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the
-10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even a
sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting the
Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even done measurements
to see how far back the current compartment allows one to go. I thought
maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts
into the back seat that allows skis to be carried, but still separates the
trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot that makes sure the skis
stayed put and went into the cone area only where you wanted them too. Of
course there would be W&B considerations, too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flap Position Indicator |
I turned off the display of flap position on my 10. It is just as easy
to take a quick glance out the window that it wasn't worth the effort to
install it. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Standley
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Position Indicator
I want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What
flap switch/positioning system do I need in
order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send
positioning data. Anybody done this yet?
Roger Standley
#40291
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Looks like the completion time is as fast as you can write the check.
Randy
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Subject: RV10-List:
Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage
section on the 10.
Thanks Guys
Paul Walter
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
If things aren't too big, they could stick up between the two rear
seats. That should work for downhill skis. Nordic might be tougher!
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the
-10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even
a sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting
the Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even done
measurements to see how far back the current compartment allows one to
go. I thought maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some
cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat that allows skis to be carried,
but still separates the trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot
that makes sure the skis stayed put and went into the cone area only
where you wanted them too. Of course there would be W&B considerations,
too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Carrying Long Items |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Not skis, but I intend to use the plane to get to some trophy trout
waters, and the need to allow for 3-4 rod tubes is something I plan on
adding, I've seen pics of dome 6's or 7's with a similar mod. A note of
caution regarding aft CG cals, to ensure that weight doesn't shift too
far aft.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings - Finishing up Tanks
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Jessen wrote:
> Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the
> the -10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling
> or even a sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now
> starting the Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even
> done measurements to see how far back the current compartment allows
> one to go. I thought maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that
> some cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat that allows skis to be
> carried, but still separates the trunk and passenger area. This would
> be a boot that makes sure the skis stayed put and went into the cone
> area only where you wanted them too. Of course there would be W&B
> considerations, too.
>
> John Jessen
> -328 Starting the Cone tonight
>
> do not archive
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends and I skiing at
least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I have moved to the land
of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis. When I had back up to WI
for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple pairs of skis to work this exact
item out. My current plan is to make two sets of cradles that penetrate the
rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4 pairs of skis and poles. Probably be something
on the order of some angle protruding up from a couple of bulkheads forming
a U shape on either side of the tunnel. The tips or bindings would then stick
out into the cabin providing additional protection against sliding into a
bad place. The whole shebang would also be secured at the "U"'s to ensure nothing
gets loose. For the bulkhead cover penetration I would make some plates
that could normally be attached with some screws and nutplates to keep the holes
covered the rest of the time. This could be easily adapted for fishing poles
or anything else that is reasonably light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the -10?
I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even a sealed off
compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting the Cone section and
would like to think ahead. Haven't even done measurements to see how far back
the current compartment allows one to go. I thought maybe if needed to install
a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat that
allows skis to be carried, but still separates the trunk and passenger area.
This would be a boot that makes sure the skis stayed put and went into the cone
area only where you wanted them too. Of course there would be W&B considerations,
too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
How often are you going to go skiing? Twice a year? Why not rent skis?
Sounds a lot easier . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends and I
skiing at least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I have
moved to the land of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis.
When I had back up to WI for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple
pairs of skis to work this exact item out. My current plan is to make
two sets of cradles that penetrate the rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4
pairs of skis and poles. Probably be something on the order of some
angle protruding up from a couple of bulkheads forming a U shape on
either side of the tunnel. The tips or bindings would then stick out
into the cabin providing additional protection against sliding into a
bad place. The whole shebang would also be secured at the "U"'s to
ensure nothing gets loose. For the bulkhead cover penetration I would
make some plates that could normally be attached with some screws and
nutplates to keep the holes covered the rest of the time. This could be
easily adapted for fishing poles or anything else that is reasonably
light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the
-10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even
a sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting
the Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even done
measurements to see how far back the current compartment allows one to
go. I thought maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some
cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat that allows skis to be carried,
but still separates the trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot
that makes sure the skis stayed put and went into the cone area only
where you wanted them too. Of course there would be W&B considerations,
too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
Growing up I used to go every weekend pretty much. Now I figure one or two trips
to CO, or similar, a year and several to da U.P. der hey. Sorry, I digressed.
Problem isn't so much me, all of my friends have their own skis and talking
them into renting probably won't work or it will involve several cases of beer
and entertainment in Hurley. Wait, let me add that the difference is I would
be buying. :-)
Michael
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
How often are you going to go skiing? Twice a year? Why not rent skis? Sounds
a lot easier . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends and I skiing at
least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I have moved to the land
of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis. When I had back up to WI
for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple pairs of skis to work this exact
item out. My current plan is to make two sets of cradles that penetrate the
rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4 pairs of skis and poles. Probably be something
on the order of some angle protruding up from a couple of bulkheads forming
a U shape on either side of the tunnel. The tips or bindings would then stick
out into the cabin providing additional protection against sliding into a
bad place. The whole shebang would also be secured at the "U"'s to ensure nothing
gets loose. For the bulkhead cover penetration I would make some plates
that could normally be attached with some screws and nutplates to keep the holes
covered the rest of the time. This could be easily adapted for fishing poles
or anything else that is reasonably light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the -10?
I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even a sealed off
compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting the Cone section and
would like to think ahead. Haven't even done measurements to see how far back
the current compartment allows one to go. I thought maybe if needed to install
a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat that
allows skis to be carried, but still separates the trunk and passenger area.
This would be a boot that makes sure the skis stayed put and went into the cone
area only where you wanted them too. Of course there would be W&B considerations,
too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Carrying Long Items |
... and when you rent, you get the latest equipment. Buy your
boots. Rent your skis.
Do not archive
On Nov 8, 2005, at 2:37 PM, Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> How often are you going to go skiing? Twice a year? Why not rent
> skis? Sounds a lot easier . . .
>
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 5:32 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
>
>
> Funny you should mention this.
>
>
> One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends
> and I skiing at least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately
> since I have moved to the land of no snow, aka the south, I no
> longer have skis. When I had back up to WI for Thanksgiving I will
> be measuring a couple pairs of skis to work this exact item out.
> My current plan is to make two sets of cradles that penetrate the
> rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4 pairs of skis and poles.
> Probably be something on the order of some angle protruding up from
> a couple of bulkheads forming a U shape on either side of the
> tunnel. The tips or bindings would then stick out into the cabin
> providing additional protection against sliding into a bad place.
> The whole shebang would also be secured at the "U"'s to ensure
> nothing gets loose. For the bulkhead cover penetration I would
> make some plates that could normally be attached with some screws
> and nutplates to keep the holes covered the rest of the time. This
> could be easily adapted for fishing poles or anything else that is
> reasonably light.
>
>
> Michael Sausen
>
> -10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
>
> do not archive
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
> Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 3:32 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
>
> Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in
> the the -10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a
> sling or even a sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm
> just now starting the Cone section and would like to think ahead.
> Haven't even done measurements to see how far back the current
> compartment allows one to go. I thought maybe if needed to install
> a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat
> that allows skis to be carried, but still separates the trunk and
> passenger area. This would be a boot that makes sure the skis
> stayed put and went into the cone area only where you wanted them
> too. Of course there would be W&B considerations, too.
>
>
> John Jessen
>
> -328 Starting the Cone tonight
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sandra & Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com>
Hi all: I'm several days behind reading all the chatter I seemed to have
started. Sorry to start such a controversy.
Marcel, yes I'm well aware of the implications that 93
lbs would create. One thing I did not mention, in my conversation with
Crossflow Aero, was that they did state there would be the need for a
redesign of the cowl as the firewall forward kit did extend the length of
the aircraft
forward. I'm not sure if that was due to the engine
mount or the PSR unit 's extra length. Certainly one of the first
considerations I will have is whether a new CG would work within Vans
flight envelope. Obviously if the Crossflow engine does not fit within his
limits it would put you in
test pilot status(not something I want to do). As well, the extra
length could affect longitudinal stability(something else I will have
to look at).
I have test flown the RV10 (Lyc 540) and I don't feel it
is any nose heavier (or CG sensitive) than my Cardinal, or most other
large Cessna's. So, to install the Crossflow engine just to save 93
lbs would surely be a false economy. The last thing I
want to do is muddle with Vans design. As with all things in life there are
pros and cons.
As a lot of others have stated, there are numerous aircraft that have
shifting CG's in flight, and there
are ways to compensate for that. It will take a lot of work and
research on my part to convince myself of the viability of this engine.
I do think the time has come for new engine options, and........... these
are experimental a/c, Still, I don't want to be the first in line.
So, I as stated prieviously, time will tell the tale. Rick
>
> Do Not Archive
> **************************************************************************************************
> *** The contents of this email and any attachments
> *** are confidential and may be privileged.
> *** They are intended for the named recipient(s) only.
> *** If this message has been delivered to you in error, please reply to
> the
> *** sender to that effect, don't forward the message to anyone
> *** and delete the message from your computer.
> *** Thanks for your help, and sorry for the inconvenience.
> **************************************************************************************************
>
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | troubleshooting - power loss |
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
I need help diagnosing my Cessna 170b.
I have a repeatable power loss if I raise the nose abruptly and if I
lower it!!! A quick loss of 3-400 rpm. Power comes back in about 5 seconds
when I return to level. The engine is a continental 0-300, 145 hp, carb, no
other add ons, compression good all cyl, annual last month. The engiine purrs
in level flight. No problem with leaning or carb heat, also does not cure
problem.
Suggestions please? How does a carb fail? I suspect a carb problem, but
I am not sure what exactly to look for. Thanks for any ideas.
Do not archive
Steve
Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556
Sent from my Treo 600
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: troubleshooting - power loss |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Steve, this is just a shot in the dark, but I'd check the float level in
the carb. I think it's a little high. I like your email name. Me too!
Linn
do not archive
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
>
>I need help diagnosing my Cessna 170b.
> I have a repeatable power loss if I raise the nose abruptly and if I
>lower it!!! A quick loss of 3-400 rpm. Power comes back in about 5 seconds
>when I return to level. The engine is a continental 0-300, 145 hp, carb, no
>other add ons, compression good all cyl, annual last month. The engiine purrs
>in level flight. No problem with leaning or carb heat, also does not cure
>problem.
> Suggestions please? How does a carb fail? I suspect a carb problem, but
>I am not sure what exactly to look for. Thanks for any ideas.
>
>Do not archive
>
>Steve
>
>Port St. Lucie, FL
>772-475-5556
>
>Sent from my Treo 600
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: troubleshooting - power loss |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> Suggestions please? How does a carb fail? I suspect a carb problem, but
> I am not sure what exactly to look for. Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Do not archive
I'm not an aircraft mechanic, and I don't play one
on tv. Could it be that the float level is set too
low so there isn't enough fuel in the carb fuel bowl?
You may also consider sending the carb off to
have it bench tested by one of the professional carb
places. I've used Mike's Aircraft and Fuel Metering
with excellent results so far for my O320.
I can look up the contact info if you are interested.
-Dj
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: troubleshooting - power loss |
Steve,
I've owned my stock-engined C-170B for 23 years, and I've never had nor heard of
problem with power loss with a quick pull up. A remote possibility may be that
you still have a composite carburetor float that was supposed to be changed
to a metal one years ago. The problem was that they tended absorb fuel and sink
over time, causing the engine to run too rich. G-loads could be causing the
float to completely sink and flood the engine. Does the same problem also occur
in a steep turn? Another possibility may be that you are low on fuel and unporting
the tank outlet with the unusual attitude.
Losing power when pushing the nose down quickly is a common phenomenon with carburetors.
The float relies on gravity to do it's thing. Without gravity the float
cuts the fuel supply to the bowl.
Perhaps this is a bit off topic for the RV-10 list, so go try www.cessna170.org and click on FORUMS. There are a lot of folks following that list that may be able to help you more than me. You need not register or be a member to ask questions or get answers.
Miles
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
I need help diagnosing my Cessna 170b.
I have a repeatable power loss if I raise the nose abruptly and if I
lower it!!! A quick loss of 3-400 rpm. Power comes back in about 5 seconds
when I return to level. The engine is a continental 0-300, 145 hp, carb, no
other add ons, compression good all cyl, annual last month. The engiine purrs
in level flight. No problem with leaning or carb heat, also does not cure
problem.
Suggestions please? How does a carb fail? I suspect a carb problem, but
I am not sure what exactly to look for. Thanks for any ideas.
Do not archive
Steve
Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556
Sent from my Treo 600
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Dorr Trimming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
I would trim the bottom of the "U" slightly above the scribe line, perhaps
1/4" above, and trim it further when you have the door. Mine hardy turns
outward to meet up with the door. 410RV has it this way also. Not a biggy
if you don't.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Byron,
> That sounds about right....(your description of the cuts on the channel)
> I wouldn't worry about getting too carried away with trimming that
> channel though until you get your doors. It's easily done with
> a die grinder and coarse sanding wheel (1.5" or so) You probably want
> to see the fit and trim only what's necessary....but remember if you
> fabric cover the doors you'll need to trim even more later.
> That photo isn't too awful, but I can't tell real well how much you left
> on the bottom lip. If you don't have about .75" to 1" sticking up,
> you're probably cutting too much.....but it's hart to say by the photo.
> If that's the definite scribe line, then you're probably in the right
> range though. If it were me, I'd play it safe and just hold off
> a bit before you trim it too far down though....the canopy would
> be an expensive replacement part, and a real pain to build up if you
> cut too far.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Engine Hookups
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Byron Gillespie wrote:
> > Question for Tim or any of the others working on or completed the canopy
> > door trimming.... If I understand the comments and photos, the top and
> > side lips form a "U" channel (to help water drain?) with the cut edge
> > facing the door. The bottom appears to be cut lower - without a channel
> > with the cut edge perpendicular to the door. Is this a correct
> > assessment?
> >
> > I don't have my doors yet (finishing kit due next month) and wanted to
> > get some of the heavy cutting and grinding out of the way before
> > attaching the canopy to the fuselage.
> >
> > Any help/advise is appreciated. Photo attached showing what I believe to
> > be the correct cut lines.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Byron Canopy mating to fuselage #40253
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 12:44 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > This is very hard to explain....and I can tell from your description
> > that it's hard to interpret too. You're right, there isn't much
> > guidance on that cut.
> >
> > What you kind of want is this: When you close the door, picture the
> > cut face laying against the door itself. So in all cases almost, the
> > angle of the plane you cut in, will match the angle of the inner
> > surface of the door. On the bottom, I found myself cutting more than
> > that, which was unnecessary........
> >
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|