Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:10 AM - Re: Airwolf Remote Oil Filter For Sale (Russell Daves)
2. 05:31 AM - Re: troubleshooting - power loss (Kelly McMullen)
3. 05:51 AM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Tom Gesele)
4. 07:20 AM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
5. 08:19 AM - Re: Carrying Long Items (John Jessen)
6. 08:20 AM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
7. 08:27 AM - Finishing Kit Questions (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 08:33 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
9. 09:14 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (Tim Olson)
10. 09:15 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
11. 09:32 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 09:40 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
13. 09:52 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
14. 10:19 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (Tim Olson)
15. 10:28 AM - RV-10 FWF Kit Contents (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
16. 11:04 AM - Re: RV-10 FWF Kit Contents (Tim Olson)
17. 11:31 AM - Re: RV-10 FWF Kit Contents (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
18. 11:32 AM - Cutting the AEX (John Jessen)
19. 11:56 AM - Re: Cutting the AEX (Sean Stephens)
20. 12:35 PM - Re: Cutting the AEX (RAS)
21. 01:38 PM - Re: Cutting the AEX (Rick)
22. 02:08 PM - Re: Cutting the AEX (John Jessen)
23. 03:11 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (John Dunne)
24. 06:09 PM - Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution (Deems Davis)
25. 06:21 PM - Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution (Sean Stephens)
26. 06:23 PM - Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution (Sean Stephens)
27. 06:29 PM - Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution (McGANN, Ron)
28. 06:32 PM - Re: Carrying Long Items (Jim Carlton)
29. 06:43 PM - Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution (Deems Davis)
30. 07:11 PM - Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution- Mistake averted, (Deems Davis)
31. 08:01 PM - Re: Cutting the AEX (John Jessen)
32. 08:09 PM - Re: Cutting the AEX (John Jessen)
33. 08:35 PM - Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution- Mistake averted, (Tim Olson)
34. 09:03 PM - Re: Finishing Kit Questions (Jesse Saint)
35. 10:25 PM - Baggage door lock (Phil White)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Airwolf Remote Oil Filter For Sale |
For Sale: Airwolf Remote Oil Filtor for Lycoming IO-540. Cost new $450.00, sale
for $300.00. New in box, never installed.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: troubleshooting - power loss |
Miles is correct. First, to diagnose a problem, don't try to combine things. If
positive Gs cause a problem, that would be one thing. If negative Gs cause it,
the answer is different. As nice a plane as the 170B is, it is only certified
in the utility category, not aerobatic, so don't expect it to like maneuvers
like sudden positive G pullup followed by negative G pushover. It is not intended
for flying nap of the earth stuff either. JMHO, having owned a 170B for 18
years.
KM
A&P
----- Original Message -----
From: Bowen Miles
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: troubleshooting - power loss
Steve,
I've owned my stock-engined C-170B for 23 years, and I've never had nor heard
of problem with power loss with a quick pull up. A remote possibility may be
that you still have a composite carburetor float that was supposed to be changed
to a metal one years ago. The problem was that they tended absorb fuel and
sink over time, causing the engine to run too rich. G-loads could be causing the
float to completely sink and flood the engine. Does the same problem also occur
in a steep turn? Another possibility may be that you are low on fuel and
unporting the tank outlet with the unusual attitude.
Losing power when pushing the nose down quickly is a common phenomenon with carburetors.
The float relies on gravity to do it's thing. Without gravity the
float cuts the fuel supply to the bowl.
Perhaps this is a bit off topic for the RV-10 list, so go try www.cessna170.org and click on FORUMS. There are a lot of folks following that list that may be able to help you more than me. You need not register or be a member to ask questions or get answers.
Miles
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
Message 3
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| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
My brother did something similar on his -6A. There are two angles spanning
one of the bulkheads in the tailcone and a door cut into the baggage area.
The skis rest on the angle and penetrate the bulkhead thru the small door.
Whatever you do, make sure there is no possibility of anything sliding out
of the rear support or sliding back and jamming the elevator pushrod. On
the -6A, the bindings prevent the skis from sliding back (sit in front of
the baggage bulkhead) and the seat back prevents if from sliding forward.
Not sure what needs to be done on the -10 but I am planning somethnig
similiar to what's in the -6A. If anyone comes up with a clever solution,
please post it to the list.
Tom Gesele
#40473 - Misc. cleanup on emp/cone, waiting on wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 5:32 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends and I
skiing at least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I have
moved to the land of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis. When I
had back up to WI for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple pairs of
skis to work this exact item out. My current plan is to make two sets of
cradles that penetrate the rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4 pairs of skis
and poles. Probably be something on the order of some angle protruding up
from a couple of bulkheads forming a U shape on either side of the tunnel.
The tips or bindings would then stick out into the cabin providing
additional protection against sliding into a bad place. The whole shebang
would also be secured at the "U"'s to ensure nothing gets loose. For the
bulkhead cover penetration I would make some plates that could normally be
attached with some screws and nutplates to keep the holes covered the rest
of the time. This could be easily adapted for fishing poles or anything
else that is reasonably light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
--
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 3:32 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the
the -10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even
a sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting the
Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even done measurements
to see how far back the current compartment allows one to go. I thought
maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts
into the back seat that allows skis to be carried, but still separates the
trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot that makes sure the skis
stayed put and went into the cone area only where you wanted them too. Of
course there would be W&B considerations, too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
Pete James did this on his emp. cone for golf clubs. Pete where are you?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
My brother did something similar on his -6A. There are two angles spanning
one of the bulkheads in the tailcone and a door cut into the baggage area.
The skis rest on the angle and penetrate the bulkhead thru the small door.
Whatever you do, make sure there is no possibility of anything sliding out
of the rear support or sliding back and jamming the elevator pushrod. On the
-6A, the bindings prevent the skis from sliding back (sit in front of the
baggage bulkhead) and the seat back prevents if from sliding forward. Not
sure what needs to be done on the -10 but I am planning somethnig similiar
to what's in the -6A. If anyone comes up with a clever solution, please post
it to the list.
Tom Gesele
#40473 - Misc. cleanup on emp/cone, waiting on wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends and I
skiing at least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I have
moved to the land of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis. When I
had back up to WI for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple pairs of
skis to work this exact item out. My current plan is to make two sets of
cradles that penetrate the rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4 pairs of skis
and poles. Probably be something on the order of some angle protruding up
from a couple of bulkheads forming a U shape on either side of the tunnel.
The tips or bindings would then stick out into the cabin providing
additional protection against sliding into a bad place. The whole shebang
would also be secured at the "U"'s to ensure nothing gets loose. For the
bulkhead cover penetration I would make some plates that could normally be
attached with some screws and nutplates to keep the holes covered the rest
of the time. This could be easily adapted for fishing poles or anything
else that is reasonably light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the
-10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even a
sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting the
Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even done measurements
to see how far back the current compartment allows one to go. I thought
maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts
into the back seat that allows skis to be carried, but still separates the
trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot that makes sure the skis
stayed put and went into the cone area only where you wanted them too. Of
course there would be W&B considerations, too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
I will do something along the lines of a lightweight mesh that attaches to
and extends from the bulkhead to the angled support you are talking about,
where it is also attached. Something that can contain / cushion the skis.
This will prevent the skis from bumping anything or moving aft. Again, I'm
think in terms of what the auto folks do with their sedans that need skis to
pass through the rear seats. What needs doing, of course, is a W&B
calculation for 4 sets of skis, boots, poles to determine if you can get
where you're going within the envelope.
John Jessen
-328 Cone just started
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Pete James did this on his emp. cone for golf clubs. Pete where are you?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
My brother did something similar on his -6A. There are two angles spanning
one of the bulkheads in the tailcone and a door cut into the baggage area.
The skis rest on the angle and penetrate the bulkhead thru the small door.
Whatever you do, make sure there is no possibility of anything sliding out
of the rear support or sliding back and jamming the elevator pushrod. On the
-6A, the bindings prevent the skis from sliding back (sit in front of the
baggage bulkhead) and the seat back prevents if from sliding forward. Not
sure what needs to be done on the -10 but I am planning somethnig similiar
to what's in the -6A. If anyone comes up with a clever solution, please post
it to the list.
Tom Gesele
#40473 - Misc. cleanup on emp/cone, waiting on wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends and I
skiing at least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I have
moved to the land of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis. When I
had back up to WI for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple pairs of
skis to work this exact item out. My current plan is to make two sets of
cradles that penetrate the rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4 pairs of skis
and poles. Probably be something on the order of some angle protruding up
from a couple of bulkheads forming a U shape on either side of the tunnel.
The tips or bindings would then stick out into the cabin providing
additional protection against sliding into a bad place. The whole shebang
would also be secured at the "U"'s to ensure nothing gets loose. For the
bulkhead cover penetration I would make some plates that could normally be
attached with some screws and nutplates to keep the holes covered the rest
of the time. This could be easily adapted for fishing poles or anything
else that is reasonably light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in the the
-10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling or even a
sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now starting the
Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even done measurements
to see how far back the current compartment allows one to go. I thought
maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some cars, like Audi, puts
into the back seat that allows skis to be carried, but still separates the
trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot that makes sure the skis
stayed put and went into the cone area only where you wanted them too. Of
course there would be W&B considerations, too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Carrying Long Items |
Pete actually built a pretty substantial box in his tailcone. He
doesn't monitor this list but I will going over to visit with him Sunday
and can take some pix then. I've been trying to take some measurements
for him but have some suspicions that he's going to have some
interference issues when mating the tailcone to fuselage.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Pete James did this on his emp. cone for golf clubs. Pete where are
you?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
My brother did something similar on his -6A. There are two angles
spanning one of the bulkheads in the tailcone and a door cut into the
baggage area. The skis rest on the angle and penetrate the bulkhead thru
the small door. Whatever you do, make sure there is no possibility of
anything sliding out of the rear support or sliding back and jamming the
elevator pushrod. On the -6A, the bindings prevent the skis from sliding
back (sit in front of the baggage bulkhead) and the seat back prevents
if from sliding forward. Not sure what needs to be done on the -10 but I
am planning somethnig similiar to what's in the -6A. If anyone comes up
with a clever solution, please post it to the list.
Tom Gesele
#40473 - Misc. cleanup on emp/cone, waiting on wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 5:32 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Funny you should mention this.
One of my plans for this aircraft is to take my family/friends
and I skiing at least a couple times of the year. Unfortunately since I
have moved to the land of no snow, aka the south, I no longer have skis.
When I had back up to WI for Thanksgiving I will be measuring a couple
pairs of skis to work this exact item out. My current plan is to make
two sets of cradles that penetrate the rear bulkhead cover for up to 2-4
pairs of skis and poles. Probably be something on the order of some
angle protruding up from a couple of bulkheads forming a U shape on
either side of the tunnel. The tips or bindings would then stick out
into the cabin providing additional protection against sliding into a
bad place. The whole shebang would also be secured at the "U"'s to
ensure nothing gets loose. For the bulkhead cover penetration I would
make some plates that could normally be attached with some screws and
nutplates to keep the holes covered the rest of the time. This could be
easily adapted for fishing poles or anything else that is reasonably
light.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuse/odds & ends
do not archive
=09
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 3:32 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Carrying Long Items
Anyone think about the need to carry skis or other long items in
the the -10? I know that 2-seat RV's were sometimes fitted with a sling
or even a sealed off compartment that allowed for such. I'm just now
starting the Cone section and would like to think ahead. Haven't even
done measurements to see how far back the current compartment allows one
to go. I thought maybe if needed to install a type of "boot" that some
cars, like Audi, puts into the back seat that allows skis to be carried,
but still separates the trunk and passenger area. This would be a boot
that makes sure the skis stayed put and went into the cone area only
where you wanted them too. Of course there would be W&B considerations,
too.
John Jessen
-328 Starting the Cone tonight
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet -
aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start...
Bob #40105
Message 8
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet -
aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start...
Bob #40105
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Howdy Bob,
Yeah, I think the mounts and bolts are in the FWF kit. If you're
going to be moving through the finishing kit, you probably want to get
the FWF kit and prop ordered a.s.a.p. You really can't do a lot
of worthwhile stuff with the spinner until you have the prop.
(The spinner stuff doesn't take that long) Most of the FWF kit can
wait until you're pretty much done with the finishing kit, but,
you're going to want to hang your engine soon into the process,
as that's the best way to counterbalance the plane when you
get the gear on. If you haven't done the gear, it's not a long
process.
It's so variable, because at the point you're at, some things go
painfully slow, yet there are some items that you'll suddenly find
that you should have ordered long ago. TDT already gave you
the lead time on the prop...10-12 weeks. I'd get my money
down on that one soon. The FWF kit doesn't take too long to
get, so you could drag that one out a bit if you wanted,
until you want to hang the engine.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
> looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
> pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I havent inventoried yet
> arent the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
> get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
> backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
> to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
Yip, hence the question... Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there
a jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I don't mind
ordering it but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily.
I also notice that Van's web site says that Hartzell tends to increase
prices on Jan 1 and that the price increase applies to delivery time,
not order time. Based on the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is
already going to pay the 2006 price.
Bob
_____
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . .
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet -
aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start...
Bob #40105
Message 11
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks Tim. I just got off the phone w/Van's. Jessica quoted 8-10
weeks on the prop but unlikely that anybody ordering now will get this
year's price (2006 price unknown). Bottom line is that I'll go ahead
and order both the prop and FWF kit now. I would have ordered sooner
but didn't expect it all would be needed so soon!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Howdy Bob,
Yeah, I think the mounts and bolts are in the FWF kit. If you're
going to be moving through the finishing kit, you probably want to get
the FWF kit and prop ordered a.s.a.p. You really can't do a lot
of worthwhile stuff with the spinner until you have the prop.
(The spinner stuff doesn't take that long) Most of the FWF kit can
wait until you're pretty much done with the finishing kit, but,
you're going to want to hang your engine soon into the process,
as that's the best way to counterbalance the plane when you
get the gear on. If you haven't done the gear, it's not a long
process.
It's so variable, because at the point you're at, some things go
painfully slow, yet there are some items that you'll suddenly find
that you should have ordered long ago. TDT already gave you
the lead time on the prop...10-12 weeks. I'd get my money
down on that one soon. The FWF kit doesn't take too long to
get, so you could drag that one out a bit if you wanted,
until you want to hang the engine.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
> looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
> pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet -
> aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
> get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
> backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
> to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start...
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Hey, we haven't had anybody flaming about the mystical "$4000 seats" in
a while!
How about it, for old times' sake?
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks Tim. I just got off the phone w/Van's. Jessica quoted 8-10
weeks on the prop but unlikely that anybody ordering now will get this
year's price (2006 price unknown). Bottom line is that I'll go ahead
and order both the prop and FWF kit now. I would have ordered sooner
but didn't expect it all would be needed so soon!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Howdy Bob,
Yeah, I think the mounts and bolts are in the FWF kit. If you're
going to be moving through the finishing kit, you probably want to get
the FWF kit and prop ordered a.s.a.p. You really can't do a lot
of worthwhile stuff with the spinner until you have the prop.
(The spinner stuff doesn't take that long) Most of the FWF kit can
wait until you're pretty much done with the finishing kit, but,
you're going to want to hang your engine soon into the process,
as that's the best way to counterbalance the plane when you
get the gear on. If you haven't done the gear, it's not a long
process.
It's so variable, because at the point you're at, some things go
painfully slow, yet there are some items that you'll suddenly find
that you should have ordered long ago. TDT already gave you
the lead time on the prop...10-12 weeks. I'd get my money
down on that one soon. The FWF kit doesn't take too long to
get, so you could drag that one out a bit if you wanted,
until you want to hang the engine.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
> looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
> pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet -
> aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
> get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
> backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
> to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start...
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Not even going to go there...
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Hey, we haven't had anybody flaming about the mystical "$4000 seats" in
a while!
How about it, for old times' sake?
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks Tim. I just got off the phone w/Van's. Jessica quoted 8-10
weeks on the prop but unlikely that anybody ordering now will get this
year's price (2006 price unknown). Bottom line is that I'll go ahead
and order both the prop and FWF kit now. I would have ordered sooner
but didn't expect it all would be needed so soon!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Howdy Bob,
Yeah, I think the mounts and bolts are in the FWF kit. If you're
going to be moving through the finishing kit, you probably want to get
the FWF kit and prop ordered a.s.a.p. You really can't do a lot
of worthwhile stuff with the spinner until you have the prop.
(The spinner stuff doesn't take that long) Most of the FWF kit can
wait until you're pretty much done with the finishing kit, but,
you're going to want to hang your engine soon into the process,
as that's the best way to counterbalance the plane when you
get the gear on. If you haven't done the gear, it's not a long
process.
It's so variable, because at the point you're at, some things go
painfully slow, yet there are some items that you'll suddenly find
that you should have ordered long ago. TDT already gave you
the lead time on the prop...10-12 weeks. I'd get my money
down on that one soon. The FWF kit doesn't take too long to
get, so you could drag that one out a bit if you wanted,
until you want to hang the engine.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
> looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
> pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet -
> aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
> get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
> backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
> to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start...
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm not sure if there's really anything that you would want to try to
do using standard spacing. Sure, you can do an hour or two on the
spinner backplane, to mate some parts together and cut some stuff out.
But, at a soon after point, you have to have the mid and rear spinner
bulkheads in place to fit the spinner on so you can match-drill holes,
and install nutplates and the prop blade cutouts and stuff like that.
You'd not at all be able to do those steps.
If someone took some care, they could probably make a jig or something
that would allow you to fit the cowling and get the proper spacing that
would be required in the future with the prop and spinner, but in
my opinion, I'd rather not trust a jig. You'll really want to see
the spinner line up with the cowl, and know that the clearance will
work. So, while not impossible, I probably wouldn't want to get to
the cowl fitting stage without the prop either.
Bottom line is, if you have the cash handy, I'd get the parts there.
(I see your other email that you ordered them.)
Also, if you try calling Hartzell direct, and give them your
order number that Van's received, you might convince them to
keep you at 2005 pricing. I found the hartzell guys very nice
to work with. If they agree to hold your pricing, I'd sure
hope Van's would allow that to be passed along.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Yip, hence the question Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there a
> jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I dont mind
> ordering it but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily.
> I also notice that Vans web site says that Hartzell tends to increase
> prices on Jan 1 and that the price increase applies to delivery time,
> not order time. Based on the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is
> already going to pay the 2006 price.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 09, 2005 10:33 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
>
>
>
> Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . .
>
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Condrey,
> Bob (US SSA)
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 09, 2005 11:28 AM
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
>
>
>
> I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
> looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung
> pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I havent inventoried yet
> arent the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to
> get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the
> backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need
> to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | RV-10 FWF Kit Contents |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
For those interested, here are the current contents of the FWF kit for
an IO-540.
I've asked Tim to post it on his web site for future reference.
Bob #40105
FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
1.000 CT BLK THROTTLE 47 10 (I(O)-540)
1.000 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
1.000 CT RED VMIXTURE 51 10 (I(O)-540)
1.000 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO320/360
1.000 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.000 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.000 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.000 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
F.WALL FWD.I(O) 540 F.WALL FWD.COMMON 10
3.000 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.000 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.000 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CL 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.000 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.000 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.000 EA J-3804-20 VIB ISOLATER I(O)-540
1.000 EA OIL COOLER 2000 OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.000 ES ALTERNATOR 60A ALTERNATOR & BOSS MNT
1.000 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.000 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.000 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.000 PROP GOV MT P-860- I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.000 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.000 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.000 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.000 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.000 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.000 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.000 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE
1.000 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.000 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.000 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP
1.000 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.000 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.000 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.000 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)- MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.000 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.000 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.000 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.000 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.000 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.000 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.000 BAG 522 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.000 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.000 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.000 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.000 BAG 526 AEROSPACE EXH HARDWRE
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 FWF Kit Contents |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I posted it, and included my .pdf's I've used in the past for previous
kits. Mine aren't current though. I scanned them into .pdf
so that if I ever messed up the original (like THAT won't happen
in the shop), I can reprint a new one.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/kits/index.html
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> For those interested, here are the current contents of the FWF kit for
> an IO-540.
>
> I've asked Tim to post it on his web site for future reference.
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
> FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
> 1.000 CT BLK THROTTLE 47 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.000 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
> 1.000 CT RED VMIXTURE 51 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.000 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO320/360
> 1.000 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
> 1.000 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
> 1.000 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
> 1.000 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
> F.WALL FWD.I(O) 540 F.WALL FWD.COMMON 10
> 3.000 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
> 2.000 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
> 2.000 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CL 4" HOSE CLAMP
> 1.000 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
> 6.000 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
> 4.000 EA J-3804-20 VIB ISOLATER I(O)-540
> 1.000 EA OIL COOLER 2000 OIL COOLER I(O)-540
> 1.000 ES ALTERNATOR 60A ALTERNATOR & BOSS MNT
> 1.000 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
> 1.000 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
> 1.000 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
> 1.000 PROP GOV MT P-860- I(O)-540 LYCOMING
> 1.000 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
> 1.000 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
> 1.000 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
> 1.000 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
> 1.000 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
> 1.000 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
> 1.000 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE
> 1.000 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
> 1.000 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
> 1.000 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP
> 1.000 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
> 1.000 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
> 1.000 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
> 1.000 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)- MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
> 1.000 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
> 1.000 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
> 1.000 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
> 1.000 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
> 1.000 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
> 1.000 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
> 1.000 BAG 522 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
> 1.000 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
> 1.000 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
> 1.000 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
> 1.000 BAG 526 AEROSPACE EXH HARDWRE
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV-10 FWF Kit Contents |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks Tim!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 FWF Kit Contents
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I posted it, and included my .pdf's I've used in the past for previous
kits. Mine aren't current though. I scanned them into .pdf
so that if I ever messed up the original (like THAT won't happen
in the shop), I can reprint a new one.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/kits/index.html
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> For those interested, here are the current contents of the FWF kit for
> an IO-540.
>
> I've asked Tim to post it on his web site for future reference.
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
> FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
> 1.000 CT BLK THROTTLE 47 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.000 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
> 1.000 CT RED VMIXTURE 51 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.000 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO320/360
> 1.000 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
> 1.000 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
> 1.000 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
> 1.000 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
> F.WALL FWD.I(O) 540 F.WALL FWD.COMMON 10
> 3.000 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
> 2.000 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
> 2.000 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CL 4" HOSE CLAMP
> 1.000 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
> 6.000 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
> 4.000 EA J-3804-20 VIB ISOLATER I(O)-540
> 1.000 EA OIL COOLER 2000 OIL COOLER I(O)-540
> 1.000 ES ALTERNATOR 60A ALTERNATOR & BOSS MNT
> 1.000 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
> 1.000 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
> 1.000 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
> 1.000 PROP GOV MT P-860- I(O)-540 LYCOMING
> 1.000 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
> 1.000 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
> 1.000 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
> 1.000 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
> 1.000 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
> 1.000 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
> 1.000 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE
> 1.000 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
> 1.000 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
> 1.000 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP
> 1.000 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
> 1.000 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
> 1.000 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
> 1.000 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)- MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
> 1.000 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
> 1.000 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
> 1.000 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
> 1.000 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
> 1.000 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
> 1.000 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
> 1.000 BAG 522 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
> 1.000 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
> 1.000 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
> 1.000 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
> 1.000 BAG 526 AEROSPACE EXH HARDWRE
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
My band saw blade decided to take a journey of its own when I was cutting
the AEX Tie Down x 7.500 (beginning of the EmpCone section). Pissed, I shut
down the shop and walked away, but now must determine what to cut it with.
It just might be that my blade is lose, which I'll check tonight, but any
suggestions please. I'm picking up a new part tonight at Van's. I have
considered trying to salvage the thing, but I'd rather get it right. It
would put some of the top rivets too close to the edge for my taste. And
the part is only a couple bucks.
John Jessen
-328 Empcone
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting the AEX |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
In a pinch you can cut it with a hacksaw and get to final size with your
3M wheel.
-Sean #40303
John Jessen wrote:
> My band saw blade decided to take a journey of its own when I was
> cutting the AEX Tie Down x 7.500 (beginning of the EmpCone section).
> Pissed, I shut down the shop and walked away, but now must determine
> what to cut it with. It just might be that my blade is lose, which
> I'll check tonight, but any suggestions please. I'm picking up a new
> part tonight at Van's. I have considered trying to salvage the thing,
> but I'd rather get it right. It would put some of the top rivets too
> close to the edge for my taste. And the part is only a couple bucks.
>
> John Jessen
> -328 Empcone
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the AEX |
cut it with a 24tpi handsaw.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jessen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 7:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX
My band saw blade decided to take a journey of its own when I was cutting the
AEX Tie Down x 7.500 (beginning of the EmpCone section). Pissed, I shut down
the shop and walked away, but now must determine what to cut it with. It just
might be that my blade is lose, which I'll check tonight, but any suggestions
please. I'm picking up a new part tonight at Van's. I have considered trying
to salvage the thing, but I'd rather get it right. It would put some of the
top rivets too close to the edge for my taste. And the part is only a couple
bucks.
John Jessen
-328 Empcone
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cutting the AEX |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 22
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Thanks for all the advice, folks. With all the great power tools, who
thinks of the basics? Hack saws. Sheesh. That takes work!
And, yes, I agree, I'm going to check the tension on my blade. I'm pretty
sure that's why it wandered so radically. I'll also try to remember to cut
wide of the line a smudge, because you do have to clean it up on the wheel.
Good advice about tapping. I do have my magic tapping oil. I have more
tapping oil than I'll ever use in my entire life! Good old HD.
John Jessen
-328 ( Looking for my non-powered, heavy duty, mid-night auto - hack
saw. )
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
I'd adjust the band saw to make sure it's tensioned correctly and tracking
right or use a hack saw. FWIW when I make cuts in metal I always leave the
line plus a smidge then polish it to the exact length with the scotchbrite
wheel. Wait till you get to tap (thread) that piece....use lots of kerosene
to lube the tap and back it out often to clean the chips.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 23
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
Bob,
Contact your local prop shop for an unserviceable (K or R flange) prop
(doesn't matter about the blade type) earmarked for scrap, if you want to
hang something in the mean time and keep your FWF set-up happening.
-John
#40315
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
Yip, hence the question. Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there a
jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I don't mind ordering it
but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily. I also notice
that Van's web site says that Hartzell tends to increase prices on Jan 1 and
that the price increase applies to delivery time, not order time. Based on
the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is already going to pay the 2006
price.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . .
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty
early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the
engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop
ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner
to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF
kit almost from the start.
Bob #40105
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans (sec
18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I gleefully
did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to attach to
the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able to
make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining clip,
this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If the
retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown in the
plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding through
the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was enough
material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make another line
of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional length from a
local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's supply's material they
don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later
section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd
cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the
inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than
the outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK.
Here's a look at the end product.
http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
Deems Davis # 406
Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you. Looking
at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be running through
the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a straight run from
end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the sharp bend to go more
towards the "rear/top" of the tanks.
Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure...
-Sean #40303
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans
> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I
> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to
> attach to
> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able
> to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining
> clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If
> the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown
> in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding
> through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was
> enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make
> another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional
> length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's supply's
> material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that I need it
> in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for future
> reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends and the
> attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4
> inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's
> seemed to work OK.
> Here's a look at the end product.
>
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank...
<http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html>
-Sean #40303
Sean Stephens wrote:
> I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you.
> Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be running
> through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a straight
> run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the sharp bend to
> go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks.
>
> Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>
>> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
>> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans
>> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I
>> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to
>> attach to
>> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able
>> to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining
>> clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If
>> the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown
>> in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding
>> through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was
>> enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make
>> another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional
>> length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's
>> supply's material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that
>> I need it in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for
>> future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends
>> and the attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark
>> approx 1/4 inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the tube at that
>> point, It's seemed to work OK.
>> Here's a look at the end product.
>>
>>
>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution |
Deems,
I think Sean is correct. I inserted the vent line through the aft most rib holes
too, and found the tube too short. A closer insepection of the plans confirms
the the vent line goes through the second to aft most rib hole. Photo attached.
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans (sec
18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I gleefully
did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to attach to
the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able to
make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining clip,
this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If the
retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown in the
plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding through
the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was enough
material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make another line
of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional length from a
local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's supply's material they
don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later
section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd
cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the
inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than
the outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK.
Here's a look at the end product.
http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
Deems Davis # 406
Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Carrying Long Items |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jim Carlton <jcarlton3@cox.net>
John Jessen wrote:
> I will do something along the lines of a lightweight mesh that
> attaches to and extends from the bulkhead to the angled support you
> are talking about, where it is also attached. Something that can
> contain / cushion the skis. This will prevent the skis from bumping
> anything or moving aft. Again, I'm think in terms of what the auto
> folks do with their sedans that need skis to pass through the rear
> seats. What needs doing, of course, is a W&B calculation for 4 sets
> of skis, boots, poles to determine if you can get where you're going
> within the envelope.
>
> John Jessen
> -328 Cone just started
Darwin Barrie is building a RV7 in Arizona and has used Coreplast
(corrugated plastic sheets) as a box in the tailcone. He built a hatch
through the passenger compartment for access. I have used this material
to make shipping containers and it is very light and strong. Easy to
work with. He has pictures posted somewhere, I just can't seem to find
his site or address at the moment. He will use it to carry long R/C
sailplane wings in his travels. This is on my short list of mods to the
-10 tailcone, too.
I'll post more as I find out more.
Jim
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
#$
%#$%
!!!!!
I hate it when that happens, If I hurry, I can probably fix it before
the Pro- seal cures around the fitting.
THANKS for the catch!!
Deems
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank...
>
> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html>
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you.
>> Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be
>> running through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a
>> straight run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the
>> sharp bend to go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks.
>>
>> Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure...
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> Deems Davis wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>>
>>> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
>>> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans
>>> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I
>>> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to
>>> attach to
>>> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able
>>> to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining
>>> clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible.
>>> If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way
>>> shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough
>>> protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was,
>>> There was enough material left over in the coil that was supplied,
>>> to make another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an
>>> additional length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when
>>> Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll
>>> find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per
>>> plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make
>>> the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then
>>> make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the
>>> tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK.
>>> Here's a look at the end product.
>>>
>>>
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
Message 30
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|
THANKS Sean & Ron
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution- Mistake averted, |
THANKS Sean & Ron
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I dashed out to the shop and undid the fitting took the line out cut it
to exactly 63" reinserted it and the snap bushings (into the correct
holes) and sure enough 63" works perfectly. Luckily I only installed the
right tank today, I'll get the Left correct the 1st time tomorrow.
Moral to this story: If your the only one with the problem..... then it
likely - you're the problem. Thanks for the quick fix. This would have
never happened on the Yahoo list!!!!
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> #$
%#$%
!!!!!
> I hate it when that happens, If I hurry, I can probably fix it before
> the Pro- seal cures around the fitting.
>
> THANKS for the catch!!
>
>
> Deems
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank...
>>
>> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html>
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>>> I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you.
>>> Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be
>>> running through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a
>>> straight run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the
>>> sharp bend to go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks.
>>>
>>> Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure...
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303
>>>
>>> Deems Davis wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>>>
>>>> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
>>>> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans
>>>> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I
>>>> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans
>>>> to attach to
>>>> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely
>>>> able to make it with little or no line protruding through the
>>>> retaining clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as
>>>> possible. If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from
>>>> the way shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave
>>>> enough protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As
>>>> is was, There was enough material left over in the coil that was
>>>> supplied, to make another line of longer length, and I was able to
>>>> buy an additional length from a local aircraft parts supply.
>>>> Usually when Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess
>>>> (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it
>>>> to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of
>>>> inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib
>>>> fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the
>>>> outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK.
>>>> Here's a look at the end product.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
>>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
>>>>
>>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>>> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
>>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 31
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|
It turned out to be the tension on the blade. I tuned up the band saw and
everything went fine.
John Jessen
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX
Thanks for all the advice, folks. With all the great power tools, who
thinks of the basics? Hack saws. Sheesh. That takes work!
And, yes, I agree, I'm going to check the tension on my blade. I'm pretty
sure that's why it wandered so radically. I'll also try to remember to cut
wide of the line a smudge, because you do have to clean it up on the wheel.
Good advice about tapping. I do have my magic tapping oil. I have more
tapping oil than I'll ever use in my entire life! Good old HD.
John Jessen
-328 ( Looking for my non-powered, heavy duty, mid-night auto - hack
saw. )
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
I'd adjust the band saw to make sure it's tensioned correctly and tracking
right or use a hack saw. FWIW when I make cuts in metal I always leave the
line plus a smidge then polish it to the exact length with the scotchbrite
wheel. Wait till you get to tap (thread) that piece....use lots of kerosene
to lube the tap and back it out often to clean the chips.
Rick S.
40185
========================================== Some AWESOME Terrific Free
generous =========================to browse Archive Search
====================================
Message 32
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|
Forgot to mention, when I stopped by Van's to get the new part, I talked to
someone (cannot remember his name off hand) about the process, and he said
that he cut his with the band saw as well. He went on to caution that
they've had a number or new orders for that part because folks failed to
drill out the hole to final tapping size. Remember to drill out the hole
before tapping, and then the tapping goes very smoothly.
John Jessen
-328 (empcone underway)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX
Thanks for all the advice, folks. With all the great power tools, who
thinks of the basics? Hack saws. Sheesh. That takes work!
And, yes, I agree, I'm going to check the tension on my blade. I'm pretty
sure that's why it wandered so radically. I'll also try to remember to cut
wide of the line a smudge, because you do have to clean it up on the wheel.
Good advice about tapping. I do have my magic tapping oil. I have more
tapping oil than I'll ever use in my entire life! Good old HD.
John Jessen
-328 ( Looking for my non-powered, heavy duty, mid-night auto - hack
saw. )
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
I'd adjust the band saw to make sure it's tensioned correctly and tracking
right or use a hack saw. FWIW when I make cuts in metal I always leave the
line plus a smidge then polish it to the exact length with the scotchbrite
wheel. Wait till you get to tap (thread) that piece....use lots of kerosene
to lube the tap and back it out often to clean the chips.
Rick S.
40185
========================================== Some AWESOME Terrific Free
generous =========================to browse Archive Search
====================================
Message 33
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|
THANKS Sean & Ron
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution- Mistake averted, |
THANKS Sean & Ron
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
See, we all switched lists just for you. ;)
I too am very glad for the change....it's nice to see posts pop up
within minutes.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I dashed out to the shop and undid the fitting took the line out cut it
> to exactly 63" reinserted it and the snap bushings (into the correct
> holes) and sure enough 63" works perfectly. Luckily I only installed the
> right tank today, I'll get the Left correct the 1st time tomorrow.
>
>
> Moral to this story: If your the only one with the problem..... then it
> likely - you're the problem. Thanks for the quick fix. This would have
> never happened on the Yahoo list!!!!
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>
>> #$
%#$%
!!!!!
>> I hate it when that happens, If I hurry, I can probably fix it before
>> the Pro- seal cures around the fitting.
>>
>> THANKS for the catch!!
>>
>>
>> Deems
>>
>> Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>>
>>> Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank...
>>>
>>> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html>
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303
>>>
>>> Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>
>>>> I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you.
>>>> Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be
>>>> running through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a
>>>> straight run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the
>>>> sharp bend to go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks.
>>>>
>>>> Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure...
>>>>
>>>> -Sean #40303
>>>>
>>>> Deems Davis wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I
>>>>> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans
>>>>> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I
>>>>> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans
>>>>> to attach to
>>>>> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely
>>>>> able to make it with little or no line protruding through the
>>>>> retaining clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as
>>>>> possible. If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from
>>>>> the way shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave
>>>>> enough protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As
>>>>> is was, There was enough material left over in the coil that was
>>>>> supplied, to make another line of longer length, and I was able to
>>>>> buy an additional length from a local aircraft parts supply.
>>>>> Usually when Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess
>>>>> (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it
>>>>> to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of
>>>>> inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib
>>>>> fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the
>>>>> outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK.
>>>>> Here's a look at the end product.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html
>>>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html
>>>>>
>>>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>>>> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks)
>>>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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Message 34
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Questions |
You can get a Hartzell prop hub from a prop shop for nothing. I have talked
to a couple and they said they had some lying around that I could have,
free. That would allow you to get your spinner back plate on and even get
your spinner partly or mostly done without a prop. C2YR hubs seem to be
pretty common. If you don't have the engine yet you could just hang a heavy
weight to the engine mount to keep the tail in the air. You would want to
support the tail for any work back there, though. I was amazed how cheap
the engine mount bolts were and how expensive the rubbers were. Like $10.50
per bolt and $110 per rubber (I guess they must be pretty important, huh?).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
Bob,
Contact your local prop shop for an unserviceable (K or R flange) prop
(doesn't matter about the blade type) earmarked for scrap, if you want to
hang something in the mean time and keep your FWF set-up happening.
-John
#40315
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
Yip, hence the question. Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there a
jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I don't mind ordering it
but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily. I also notice
that Van's web site says that Hartzell tends to increase prices on Jan 1 and
that the price increase applies to delivery time, not order time. Based on
the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is already going to pay the 2006
price.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . .
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions
I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed
looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty
early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the
engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop
ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner
to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF
kit almost from the start.
Bob #40105
Message 35
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| Subject: | Baggage door lock |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
For those of you who aren't installing a Magneto'd engine, and thus
don't need Van's mag switch and baggage door lock set (that are keyed
alike), I just tracked down a baggage door lock at
<www.thehardwarehut.com> that looks to be a straight replacement for the
one Van's sells. At $4.67 each, I ordered two. W/shipping, total $15.29
If others are interested, I'll report on the fit. Riveting the bag
door, and realized ya gotta put the lock in before you can finish it!
Phil White #40220 in IL (fuse at 65%)
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