Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Comments... (Matt Dralle)
2. 06:30 AM - Spinner trimming. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
3. 09:54 AM - Re: Spinner trimming. (Tim Olson)
4. 10:44 AM - Re: Spinner trimming. (LessDragProd@aol.com)
5. 11:18 AM - Silicon for Al (Sam Marlow)
6. 02:21 PM - 5/8" holes in the F-1011 (John Jessen)
7. 03:45 PM - Re: 5/8" holes in the F-1011 (Rick)
8. 04:10 PM - Re: Re: Carrying Long Items (Randy DeBauw)
9. 04:15 PM - Re: Re: Carrying Long Items (Randy DeBauw)
10. 04:17 PM - Re: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question (Randy DeBauw)
11. 09:48 PM - Wing Root Fairing - error in the plans? (DejaVu)
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
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do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Spinner trimming. |
I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on the prop.
I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates installed. Does anyone
have any good way to get the prop to rotate through it's pitch range so I
can finish the trimming of the prop openings in the spinner?
Thanks
Ray Doerr
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Spinner trimming. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think the Van's plan is to clamp a couple of boards around the blade
and make a lever that you can twist. I myself was able to use
a Sears Strap wrench (rubber strap that goes around the prop and as
a handle on it) and put a pad under the wrench on the prop surface.
Anything that you can grip it with to turn it, with about a 12" or
more lever length should work. Just clamp it with a big vice grips. ;)
(JUST KIDDING)
One other tip: This is something that will be MUCH better done if you
attach the prop to the engine. It's too hard to hold the prop steady
while you twist with that much force.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on
> the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates
> installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate
> through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop
> openings in the spinner?
>
>
> Thanks Ray Doerr
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Spinner trimming. |
Hi All,
I can't pass on this one.
The MT propeller already has the spinner installed at the factory to match
your cowl.
When you get the propeller assembly, just bolt it on the engine.
Best regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 11/14/2005 9:57:58 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think the Van's plan is to clamp a couple of boards around the blade
and make a lever that you can twist. I myself was able to use
a Sears Strap wrench (rubber strap that goes around the prop and as
a handle on it) and put a pad under the wrench on the prop surface.
Anything that you can grip it with to turn it, with about a 12" or
more lever length should work. Just clamp it with a big vice grips. ;)
(JUST KIDDING)
One other tip: This is something that will be MUCH better done if you
attach the prop to the engine. It's too hard to hold the prop steady
while you twist with that much force.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on
> the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates
> installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate
> through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop
> openings in the spinner?
>
>
> Thanks Ray Doerr
Message 5
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I know it's been discussed before, but could someone tell me where to
buy the special silicon or RTV not corrosive to Aluminum?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
Fuse
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think the Van's plan is to clamp a couple of boards around the blade
> and make a lever that you can twist. I myself was able to use
> a Sears Strap wrench (rubber strap that goes around the prop and as
> a handle on it) and put a pad under the wrench on the prop surface.
> Anything that you can grip it with to turn it, with about a 12" or
> more lever length should work. Just clamp it with a big vice grips. ;)
> (JUST KIDDING)
>
> One other tip: This is something that will be MUCH better done if you
> attach the prop to the engine. It's too hard to hold the prop steady
> while you twist with that much force.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
>> I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on
>> the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates
>> installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate
>> through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop
>> openings in the spinner?
>>
>>
>> Thanks Ray Doerr
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | 5/8" holes in the F-1011 |
What, pray tell, are the two 5/8" holes used for that one drills to size
just above the F-1011E Rudder Cable Angle? (Page 10-3) I've looked ahead
but I cannot find anything going through there. The implication is that the
rudder cables go through there, but I don't see that. Reason for the
question is that I sneezed while drilling out one of them, and it ended up
1/16" too big. Is there a snap bushing that goes in there? The other one
is fine.
John Jessen
-328 EmpCone
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 5/8" holes in the F-1011 |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Carrying Long Items |
I have mounted it on the rear bulkhead with the remote fill on the
forward side. The bottle weights about 8 lbs for a 40CF bottle. I used
only 600 lbs all the way to Osh and back. Mt high system. Call me for
info if you want. Randy 800-547-1522
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Pierce
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Carrying Long Items
I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting
oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for
balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the
composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight.
Roger Pierce
Bakersfield, CA
QB Wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | RE: Carrying Long Items |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I didn't have my camera when the install happened. sorry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Carrying Long Items
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Randy has done pretty much exactly that in 610RV (#40400). He's got the
Mountain High system with one large bottle attached to the backside of
the bulkhead at the rear of the baggage area. I don't see any pictures
of his setup on his site (yeah, I'm probably just too lazy to have found
them) but I fully intend to plagarize his setup when I get to that
point. It's a very very very clean install of the oxygen system...
Randy, do you have some pics of that setup for the rest of us? ;)
James
Roger Pierce wrote:
> I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting
> oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for
> balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the
> composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight.
>
> Roger Pierce
> Bakersfield, CA
> QB Wings
Message 10
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| Subject: | Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I didn't fill them. They seem to just let the air out as fresh air is
coming in through the vents. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
I am working on the last half of the fuse, and notice that there are
quite a few places where there are holes or gaps in either the outside
skin or between cabin and empennage. Just put the baggage door on, and
see a 1/4" by 1 inch gap where the longeron meets the door frame.
Noticed that the rear baggage bulkhead has V stiffening corrugations,
which form triangular openings between cabin and the rear of the plane
which is fairly open to low pressure areas outside it. The bottom skin
where cabin meets tail has several 1/8" gaps in the corners.
Are these gaps something I need to seal to have a quiet plane at 200
mph? Or are some openings desirable to allow ventilation and heating
air to exit the cabin so new can enter? Should openings be limited to
one, especially designed to give quiet air passage? If they should be
sealed, what are you using? Foam rubber, glop, tape?
What have you learned from flying one; Randy, Jesse, others?
Phil #40220 in IL (fuse floors)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Wing Root Fairing - error in the plans? |
Chapter 44 shows all wing root fairing screw holes being dimpled. Some of these
screws attach the fairing to the wing tank attach brackets which are not dimpled,
per plans. Has anyone found this? Looks like the surface on the attach
bracket is thick enough to countersink eventhough K1000-08 were used.
Anh
#141
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