Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:31 AM - Pitot Tube on Ebay (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
2. 09:36 AM - Re: Aileron bucking bar tip (John Jessen)
3. 12:49 PM - Re: Aileron bucking bar tip (Larry Rosen)
4. 04:25 PM - Re: Pitot Tube on Ebay (Tim Olson)
5. 04:47 PM - Re: Pitot Tube on Ebay (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
6. 07:13 PM - 3 black knobs (Tim Olson)
7. 07:54 PM - Baggage Extension (Bob)
8. 08:18 PM - Re: 3 black knobs (Tim Olson)
9. 09:00 PM - Engine mount clearance (Chris , Susie McGough)
10. 10:15 PM - Re: 3 black knobs (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Pitot Tube on Ebay |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I just noticed a new AN-5812 heated pitot tube on Ebay and ending at 2:10 CST today.
This is the style that fits a Gretz mount and is 12 volts. Current price
is 306 dollars which is about 1/3 of the current going rate. Just letting
folks know - I have no financial interest in this item.
Item #4589783866
Do not archive.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
Message 2
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| Subject: | Aileron bucking bar tip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
There are other instances, in the HS for example, where the called for
rivets are too short. After taking some call outs at first on blind faith,
but then looking at the results after riveting, I'm now looking at the
rivets before setting more as a builder and less as a paint-by-numbers
assembler, which is where I started. It's a good reminder for new folks.
These plans are wonderful, but there are a few errors. Tim has many listed,
but I'm sure there are more.
Another good use of the special purpose bucking bar is for the nose ribs of
the HS, but maybe that's where you meant, Deems. If you're lucky enough to
have someone help you, and thus don't have to use one hand for the bar and
one for the gun, you can get great leverage with that bar.
John Jessen
-328 (10 day buildus interruptis from the EmpCone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron bucking bar tip
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I finally found another use for the $pecial purpo$e bucking bar for the HS.
It works great on the aileron skins to spar attachment.
Here's a link: http://deemsrv10.com/21-6s2-4.html
ps. I thought I remember a post from someone which mentioned that they
didn't agree with the rivet callouts here. I second that: The plans
call for 426-3.5's and I found them too short and went with 4's
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing ailerons
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron bucking bar tip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I have a list of the rivets that I used that were different than the
call outs in the plans for the empennage / tailcone kit. You can find
them here <http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/rivetuse.htm>
Larry Rosen
40356
John Jessen wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>There are other instances, in the HS for example, where the called for
>rivets are too short. After taking some call outs at first on blind faith,
>but then looking at the results after riveting, I'm now looking at the
>rivets before setting more as a builder and less as a paint-by-numbers
>assembler, which is where I started. It's a good reminder for new folks.
>These plans are wonderful, but there are a few errors. Tim has many listed,
>but I'm sure there are more.
>
>Another good use of the special purpose bucking bar is for the nose ribs of
>the HS, but maybe that's where you meant, Deems. If you're lucky enough to
>have someone help you, and thus don't have to use one hand for the bar and
>one for the gun, you can get great leverage with that bar.
>
>John Jessen
> -328 (10 day buildus interruptis from the EmpCone)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 4:26 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Aileron bucking bar tip
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
>I finally found another use for the $pecial purpo$e bucking bar for the HS.
>It works great on the aileron skins to spar attachment.
>
>Here's a link: http://deemsrv10.com/21-6s2-4.html
>
>ps. I thought I remember a post from someone which mentioned that they
>didn't agree with the rivet callouts here. I second that: The plans
>call for 426-3.5's and I found them too short and went with 4's
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Finishing ailerons
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tube on Ebay |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
1/3?? Bob, you do know tht you can get a good pitot for under
$450 these days, right?
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I just noticed a new AN-5812 heated pitot tube on Ebay and ending at
> 2:10 CST today. This is the style that fits a Gretz mount and is 12
> volts. Current price is 306 dollars which is about 1/3 of the
> current going rate. Just letting folks know - I have no financial
> interest in this item.
>
> Item #4589783866
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Bob -------------------------- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless
> Handheld
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tube on Ebay |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
No, I bought mine a long time ago. I just noticed the price in Spruce the other
day.
Thanks for looking out for me though...
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pitot Tube on Ebay
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
1/3?? Bob, you do know tht you can get a good pitot for under
$450 these days, right?
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I just noticed a new AN-5812 heated pitot tube on Ebay and ending at
> 2:10 CST today. This is the style that fits a Gretz mount and is 12
> volts. Current price is 306 dollars which is about 1/3 of the
> current going rate. Just letting folks know - I have no financial
> interest in this item.
>
> Item #4589783866
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Bob -------------------------- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless
> Handheld
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ok, I'm going to ask a dumb question....
With the FWF Kit, you get 3 black knobs. I assumed they were
for Front Heat, Rear Heat, and Filtered Air Bypass.
Recently, with the service letter on the FAB, I got the FAB
manual bypass kit, that includes one black knobed cable.
This is a duplicate for me, isn't it? Or, is there either
one more black knobed control that I don't know about or
something else I'm missing? I'm assuming the only fuel
prime is using the electric pump on my IO-540.
Engine Baffling is complete, wings with aileron trim installed
are going out to the hanger tomorrow, along with all the
other tail fins and misc. parts I don't need until assembly.
Now all that's left is the main airframe of the fuselage
at home. It's feeling a bit closer when you can finally get
some completed parts into the hanger.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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| Subject: | Baggage Extension |
-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Condrey [mailto:scondrey@cox.net]
Subject: Baggage Extension
I told somebody that I'd take pictures of Pete James' baggage area mod last
weekend. Unfortunately I don't remember who that was, but they're attached
at very low resolution.
Bob #40105
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 3 black knobs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm kind of starting to answer my own question, but if someone else has
verification for me, I'd appreciate it.
It looks like when you get the FAB kit with the FWF Kit (which REALLY
makes you appreciate how the -10 kit instructions are, as the FAB
kit is exponentially more confusing to read and visualize) you get
a black knob control cable that would activate the trapdoor that closes
off the air inlet. They give you a magnetic latch for the alternate
air bypass.
When you get the new service letter kit, it comes with a black knob
cable, and it's supposed to operate a knife type valve on the bottom
of the FAB.
In the IO-540, since you don't need carb heat, it appears that you
can get away with only the new knife style valve, if you are OK
with leaving the air inlet open and not closing it off. That would
make sense to me, because if you have the ability to completely
bypass the filter, then who cares if the filter freezes over.
So, for people who are doing the FAB kit and have the upgrade
at that time, it looks like you'll be able to save significantly
on how many parts you put into the FAB.
It looks to me like the FAB might be about the worst part of doing
the FWF kit. If they only updated the instructions to the -10
CAD-style stuff, I bet they'd save a lot of phone calls and
head-scratching.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Ok, I'm going to ask a dumb question....
>
> With the FWF Kit, you get 3 black knobs. I assumed they were
> for Front Heat, Rear Heat, and Filtered Air Bypass.
>
> Recently, with the service letter on the FAB, I got the FAB
> manual bypass kit, that includes one black knobed cable.
> This is a duplicate for me, isn't it? Or, is there either
> one more black knobed control that I don't know about or
> something else I'm missing? I'm assuming the only fuel
> prime is using the electric pump on my IO-540.
>
> Engine Baffling is complete, wings with aileron trim installed
> are going out to the hanger tomorrow, along with all the
> other tail fins and misc. parts I don't need until assembly.
> Now all that's left is the main airframe of the fuselage
> at home. It's feeling a bit closer when you can finally get
> some completed parts into the hanger.
>
> Tim
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Engine mount clearance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Hi All I inspected a RV10 yesterday and noticed that this persons 10 also
had about 1/16th clearance from sump to mount!!
And yes it was a new engine from Vans!
For your info ...
Chris 388
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 3 black knobs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim,
I don't have the upgraded service letter kit yet. Looks like we have an
extra cable since we don't need the one for carb heat. Got to love the old
FAB instructions. I spent 20 hours on the FAB and still waiting for the
upgraded service letter kit.
Remember when I had a hard time flaring my fuel lines? I spent 8 hours
today uninstalling the two from the valve to the wing roots and made new
ones. They came out fine. BTW, I sent a sample of the bad ones back to
Van's when I first discovered it. They cracked at Van's also.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 black knobs
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I'm kind of starting to answer my own question, but if someone else has
> verification for me, I'd appreciate it.
>
> It looks like when you get the FAB kit with the FWF Kit (which REALLY
> makes you appreciate how the -10 kit instructions are, as the FAB
> kit is exponentially more confusing to read and visualize) you get
> a black knob control cable that would activate the trapdoor that closes
> off the air inlet. They give you a magnetic latch for the alternate
> air bypass.
>
> When you get the new service letter kit, it comes with a black knob
> cable, and it's supposed to operate a knife type valve on the bottom
> of the FAB.
>
> In the IO-540, since you don't need carb heat, it appears that you
> can get away with only the new knife style valve, if you are OK
> with leaving the air inlet open and not closing it off. That would
> make sense to me, because if you have the ability to completely
> bypass the filter, then who cares if the filter freezes over.
> So, for people who are doing the FAB kit and have the upgrade
> at that time, it looks like you'll be able to save significantly
> on how many parts you put into the FAB.
>
> It looks to me like the FAB might be about the worst part of doing
> the FWF kit. If they only updated the instructions to the -10
> CAD-style stuff, I bet they'd save a lot of phone calls and
> head-scratching.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Ok, I'm going to ask a dumb question....
>>
>> With the FWF Kit, you get 3 black knobs. I assumed they were
>> for Front Heat, Rear Heat, and Filtered Air Bypass.
>>
>> Recently, with the service letter on the FAB, I got the FAB
>> manual bypass kit, that includes one black knobed cable.
>> This is a duplicate for me, isn't it? Or, is there either
>> one more black knobed control that I don't know about or
>> something else I'm missing? I'm assuming the only fuel
>> prime is using the electric pump on my IO-540.
>>
>> Engine Baffling is complete, wings with aileron trim installed
>> are going out to the hanger tomorrow, along with all the
>> other tail fins and misc. parts I don't need until assembly.
>> Now all that's left is the main airframe of the fuselage
>> at home. It's feeling a bit closer when you can finally get
>> some completed parts into the hanger.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
>
>
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