Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Please Read - Who is "Matt Dralle" and What are "The Lists"...? (Matt Dralle)
2. 12:50 AM - Re: Re: B&C oil filter (RAS)
3. 05:17 AM - Re: Re: B&C oil filter (Gary Specketer)
4. 05:21 AM - Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: B&C oil filter (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
6. 07:24 AM - cotter pins (Dj Merrill)
7. 07:27 AM - Re: Re: B&C oil filter (John Jessen)
8. 07:50 AM - Re: Problem with WD-1002-R (Ted on RV list)
9. 07:58 AM - Re: Problem with WD-1002-R (Randy DeBauw)
10. 11:34 AM - Re: Problem with WD-1002-R (Rene Felker)
11. 11:35 AM - Re: Problem with WD-1002-R (Rene Felker)
12. 11:41 AM - Re: Problem with WD-1002-R (Randy DeBauw)
13. 02:45 PM - Re: Problem with WD-1002-R (Rene Felker)
14. 02:50 PM - Connection speed vs. Attachments (Comcast)
15. 03:15 PM - Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts (Nikolaos Napoli)
16. 03:45 PM - Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts (Rick)
17. 03:52 PM - Re: Connection speed vs. Attachments ()
18. 03:53 PM - Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts (Rick)
19. 04:04 PM - deburring and primer prep (Bill and Tami Britton)
20. 04:34 PM - Re: deburring and primer prep (Rick)
21. 06:40 PM - Re: deburring and primer prep (Bill and Tami Britton)
22. 08:17 PM - Re: deburring and primer prep (Nikolaos Napoli)
23. 08:29 PM - Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts (Robin Wessel)
24. 08:43 PM - Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts (Nikolaos Napoli)
25. 08:59 PM - Re: deburring and primer prep (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
26. 09:13 PM - Re: Power Loss follow up (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Please Read - Who is "Matt Dralle" and What are "The Lists"...? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in
the information technology industry for over 20 years primarily in computer
networking design and implementation. I've also had a rather extensive background
in web development and CGI design during this period.
I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders
from around the world. Since that time, I have added 50 other kinds of aircraft
related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such
as the Archives and Search Engine just to name a few.
For the upmost in flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own
servers here locally. Other support systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched
network infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda
spam filter, a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial business T1 Internet
connection with static addressing.
The computer servers found here include two, dual processor Xeon Linux systems
dedicated to the email and web functions respectfully, and another P4 Linux system
serving as a remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for
an on-line, hard drive-based backup system with 3.2 Terabytes of storage. This
entire system is protected by multiple commercial-grade uninterrupted power
supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are available even during a local
power outage!
I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power
feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer
Center for the Matronics Email Lists. Here's a new composite photo of the
List Computer Center following this Summer's upgrades!
http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg
As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to
providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister.
But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't
support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It
is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you...
and YOU!
To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make
a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding
system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keep it running!
Please make a Contribution today to support these Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: B&C oil filter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Have a look at http://www.thinkauto.com they sell remote oilfilter adapters
remarkably similar at only a fraction of the price. there are further
avaition style connectors and hoses available from this site which appears
to supply the car racing hobbists. Please take note, I haven't yet ordered
from these guys but will be in the week ahead.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
> ECI http://www.eci2fly.com/pages/price_list.aspx?qt=pg&pcid=519 has an Oil
> Filter Adaptor #AEL22772-1 for $179.38 and a 1.4" Extension AEL22776-014
> for $38.95.
>
> Russ Daves
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 12:57 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
>> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>>
>> You need to purchase the extension to make it work. They offer three
>> sizes if I remember right and it is the middle size that works (1.4")
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 7:19 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Hey Gary, hope the weather down there is treating you well. It's just
>> starting to get cold here finally, and there's still no sticking
>> snow...well, maybe a little after today.
>>
>> Anyway, I think maybe Scott Schmidt has the B&C adapter and he
>> had to get an extension for it, if I remember right. Other than
>> that, I think it looks like it'll work well.
>>
>> http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
>> http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/2/23756135
>>
>> I myself am using the standard straight-out model, but will evaluate
>> after I fly the time off and see if there's a good place to put
>> on an ADC remote-mount filter. I liked my last one a lot, and taking
>> it off without going upside down was handy for keeping things clean.
>> I may just stick with what I have though...I'll change 2 changes
>> on it before I look elsewhere.
>>
>> Good luck with your build...I'm sure you're glad to be back there
>> building again.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>> Current section: Engine Hookups
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> Gary Specketer wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
>> <speckter@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> I bought an engine that had a B&C oil filter adapter on it. I got my
>> motor
>>> mount this week and held it up to the motor and it appears to hit the
>> filter
>>> with the diagional tube.
>>> Has anyone put a B&C filter adapter on their plane and did they have a
>>> conflict?
>>> Also it apears that the same tube is very close to the vent on the
>> engine.
>>> Any feedback about that.
>>> Gary
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: B&C oil filter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Thanks to all for the replies, I am back on track again.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
--> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
You need to purchase the extension to make it work. They offer three sizes
if I remember right and it is the middle size that works (1.4") Hope that
helps.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Gary, hope the weather down there is treating you well. It's just
starting to get cold here finally, and there's still no sticking
snow...well, maybe a little after today.
Anyway, I think maybe Scott Schmidt has the B&C adapter and he had to get an
extension for it, if I remember right. Other than that, I think it looks
like it'll work well.
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/2/23756135
I myself am using the standard straight-out model, but will evaluate after I
fly the time off and see if there's a good place to put on an ADC
remote-mount filter. I liked my last one a lot, and taking it off without
going upside down was handy for keeping things clean. I may just stick with
what I have though...I'll change 2 changes on it before I look elsewhere.
Good luck with your build...I'm sure you're glad to be back there building
again.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Gary Specketer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
<speckter@comcast.net>
>
>
> I bought an engine that had a B&C oil filter adapter on it. I got my
motor
> mount this week and held it up to the motor and it appears to hit the
filter
> with the diagional tube.
> Has anyone put a B&C filter adapter on their plane and did they have a
> conflict? Also it apears that the same tube is very close to the vent
> on the
engine.
> Any feedback about that.
> Gary
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts |
Ron, don't bet on not forgetting to change to AN bolts. A
while back, a fellow was working on his pusher and had the canard off
for some work in the nose. Another fellow was coming over to take a
look at his plane so the canard owner just sat the canard in place so it
would look good for the gawker. When the walk around was done, the
fellow left for other tasks. Next day, he went out for a test flight
and after takeoff, found out at 300'-400' agl that his canard wasn't
attached-forgot to put the bolts in. We won't bother with the rest of
the story. You can know with certainly that 'nothing will be remembered
and everything will be forgotten.' It's why we have a neck.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
I'm with you Rick. I doubt any single builder would forget about
temporary bolts used to attach something as critical as the wings!!
Ron
40187
Fuse
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
John,
This is just to hold the fuse together during assembly...You
still think you need to use close tolerance for that reason? I'm not
slamming your post, just curious, I thought you might have thought the
question was regarding final assembly.
My Homedepot (actually Lowes) slipped nicely into the center
spar holes for this part of the assembly. But I will admit using a
scotchbrite pad to make sure excess burrs and such were removed from the
bolts. No anodizing was removed or damage to the holes.
Rick S.
40185
Some AWESOME Terrific
Free your generous much much
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: B&C oil filter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I also had this problem with the engine I had built from America's
Aircraft Engines in Tulsa. Richard Fowler built the engine with the 90
degree oil adapter which points up at the 10 o'clock position when
viewed from the pilot seat looking forward. I had to remove the oil
filter from the engine to be able to hang the engine and then I was
unable to re-install it because the engine mount is in the way. I
talked to Richard and he is going to send me the 1.4" extension free.
Richard said they like this one better than the straight one because the
filter will drain when you punch a top in the top of the filter, this
way when you unscrew it, you get les oil on the engine and floor.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
<sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
You need to purchase the extension to make it work. They offer three
sizes if I remember right and it is the middle size that works (1.4")
Hope that helps.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Gary, hope the weather down there is treating you well. It's just
starting to get cold here finally, and there's still no sticking
snow...well, maybe a little after today.
Anyway, I think maybe Scott Schmidt has the B&C adapter and he
had to get an extension for it, if I remember right. Other than
that, I think it looks like it'll work well.
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/2/23756135
I myself am using the standard straight-out model, but will evaluate
after I fly the time off and see if there's a good place to put
on an ADC remote-mount filter. I liked my last one a lot, and taking
it off without going upside down was handy for keeping things clean.
I may just stick with what I have though...I'll change 2 changes
on it before I look elsewhere.
Good luck with your build...I'm sure you're glad to be back there
building again.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Gary Specketer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
<speckter@comcast.net>
>
>
> I bought an engine that had a B&C oil filter adapter on it. I got my
motor
> mount this week and held it up to the motor and it appears to hit the
filter
> with the diagional tube.
> Has anyone put a B&C filter adapter on their plane and did they have a
> conflict?
> Also it apears that the same tube is very close to the vent on the
engine.
> Any feedback about that.
> Gary
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Hi all,
Just out of curiousity, what exactly is the difference between
cotter pins
that you can get from a hardware store (stainless steel, or stainless
with zinc),
and the "aviation grade" that you can get from Aircraft Spruce and such?
Thanks,
-Dj
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: B&C oil filter |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Is there any reason not to do an oil filter that is mounted off the engine?
Other than more fittings that can come loose? What are the known issues in
terms of, say, distance away from engine, temperature drop, hose location,
if any issues at all. I like the idea of getting it somewhere where it is
easy to change.
John Jessen
~328 (prolonged buildus interruptus absence from my addiction is really
starting to get old, if you know what I mean)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I also had this problem with the engine I had built from America's Aircraft
Engines in Tulsa. Richard Fowler built the engine with the 90 degree oil
adapter which points up at the 10 o'clock position when viewed from the
pilot seat looking forward. I had to remove the oil filter from the engine
to be able to hang the engine and then I was unable to re-install it because
the engine mount is in the way. I talked to Richard and he is going to send
me the 1.4" extension free.
Richard said they like this one better than the straight one because the
filter will drain when you punch a top in the top of the filter, this way
when you unscrew it, you get les oil on the engine and floor.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
<sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
You need to purchase the extension to make it work. They offer three sizes
if I remember right and it is the middle size that works (1.4") Hope that
helps.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: B&C oil filter
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Gary, hope the weather down there is treating you well. It's just
starting to get cold here finally, and there's still no sticking
snow...well, maybe a little after today.
Anyway, I think maybe Scott Schmidt has the B&C adapter and he had to get an
extension for it, if I remember right. Other than that, I think it looks
like it'll work well.
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/5/27297876
http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/565366/2/23756135
I myself am using the standard straight-out model, but will evaluate after I
fly the time off and see if there's a good place to put on an ADC
remote-mount filter. I liked my last one a lot, and taking it off without
going upside down was handy for keeping things clean.
I may just stick with what I have though...I'll change 2 changes on it
before I look elsewhere.
Good luck with your build...I'm sure you're glad to be back there building
again.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Gary Specketer wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
<speckter@comcast.net>
>
>
> I bought an engine that had a B&C oil filter adapter on it. I got my
motor
> mount this week and held it up to the motor and it appears to hit the
filter
> with the diagional tube.
> Has anyone put a B&C filter adapter on their plane and did they have a
> conflict?
> Also it apears that the same tube is very close to the vent on the
engine.
> Any feedback about that.
> Gary
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Problem with WD-1002-R |
I did the exact same thing yesterday on the left weldment. Didn't go off the
side but close enough to make it useless. I have not been able as yet to
figure out why it happened. The side, I thought , was tight to the F-1040
channel (I think thats the right number) when I drilled. Ordered a new one
from Van's. Today I'll drill out the bad one.
Oh well...I guess stuff happens
Ted French
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: November 27, 2005 9:00 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on
section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R
as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange
of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not
find anything in the archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 9
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| Subject: | Problem with WD-1002-R |
You have to really work at it to get the ears to lay close to the web.
Then once you have done that clamp them before drilling. I couldn't get
mine to go strait down the middle but I was able to get enough edge
distance. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working
on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and
WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in
the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this
problem? Could not find anything in the archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 10
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| Subject: | Problem with WD-1002-R |
After I saw my problem I tried to see if I could get the flange to move
over, but could not figure out a way? How did you get yours to move over to
the side? Any help is greatly appreciated so that I can get the next one
right....everything was going so good up to that point.
And, thanks for your response.
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
You have to really work at it to get the ears to lay close to the web. Then
once you have done that clamp them before drilling. I couldn't get mine to
go strait down the middle but I was able to get enough edge distance. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on
section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R
as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange
of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not
find anything in the archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 11
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| Subject: | Problem with WD-1002-R |
Ted, I sent an e-mail to Vans to see what they say. I am wondering if there
is a fix that does not require the replacement of the 1002. I hate drilling
out rivets and worry about damaging the bulkhead doing it.
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted on RV list
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I did the exact same thing yesterday on the left weldment. Didn't go off the
side but close enough to make it useless. I have not been able as yet to
figure out why it happened. The side, I thought , was tight to the F-1040
channel (I think thats the right number) when I drilled. Ordered a new one
from Van's. Today I'll drill out the bad one.
Oh well...I guess stuff happens
Ted French
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on
section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R
as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange
of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not
find anything in the archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 12
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| Subject: | Problem with WD-1002-R |
Now you are really making me rack the old brain. I think it involved a
block of wood and a clamp or 2. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
After I saw my problem I tried to see if I could get the flange to move
over, but could not figure out a way? How did you get yours to move
over to the side? Any help is greatly appreciated so that I can get the
next one right........everything was going so good up to that point.
And, thanks for your response.
Rene' Felker
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
You have to really work at it to get the ears to lay close to the web.
Then once you have done that clamp them before drilling. I couldn't get
mine to go strait down the middle but I was able to get enough edge
distance. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working
on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and
WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in
the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this
problem? Could not find anything in the archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 13
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| Subject: | Problem with WD-1002-R |
Here is the response I got from Vans. I sure do like their responsiveness.
Rene',
I don't know what happened, but I'm sending you a new WD-1002R.
You can remove the old one by grinding off the shop heads and punching out
the rivet shanks. Draw a line on the top part of the new WD-1002 and before
you drill it, you should see the line through the holes in the channel and
gusset.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer@vansaircraft.com
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted on RV list
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I did the exact same thing yesterday on the left weldment. Didn't go off the
side but close enough to make it useless. I have not been able as yet to
figure out why it happened. The side, I thought , was tight to the F-1040
channel (I think thats the right number) when I drilled. Ordered a new one
from Van's. Today I'll drill out the bad one.
Oh well...I guess stuff happens
Ted French
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on
section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R
as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange
of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not
find anything in the archive.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 14
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| Subject: | Connection speed vs. Attachments |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Comcast" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Too bad we can't have a way to opt in or out of the attachments. I really
prefer to have the pics and things attached because I often read the list
e-mail while riding in spam cans.
KP
RV-10 40439
HS in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@deej.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Calendar Pages
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
> jim@combsfive.com wrote:
>> There are people who use dial up and wish not to have large attachments.
>
> People still use dial-up? *wink*
>
> -Dj
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts |
Another piece of info for those interested on this subject.
I emailed Vans today on this subject and allready got a response back.
They said that one should oil the bolts while installing them to help ease them
in. The bolts could be tapped out with a wooden dowl or other soft material
to preclude damaging the threads. The discoloration on of the bolts due to
the plating rubbing off is nothing to worry about. No mention of using anything
other than the supplied hardware.
Niko
40188
Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com> wrote:
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Ron, dont
bet on not forgetting to change to AN bolts. A while back, a fellow was working
on his pusher and had the canard off for some work in the nose. Another fellow
was coming over to take a look at his plane so the canard owner just sat
the canard in place so it would look good for the gawker. When the walk around
was done, the fellow left for other tasks. Next day, he went out for a test
flight and after takeoff, found out at 300-400 agl that his canard wasnt attachedforgot
to put the bolts in. We wont bother with the rest of the story.
You can know with certainly that nothing will be remembered and everything will
be forgotten. Its why we have a neck.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
I'm with you Rick. I doubt any single builder would forget about temporary
bolts used to attach something as critical as the wings!!
Ron
40187
Fuse
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
John,
This is just to hold the fuse together during assembly...You still think you
need to use close tolerance for that reason? I'm not slamming your post, just
curious, I thought you might have thought the question was regarding final
assembly.
My Homedepot (actually Lowes) slipped nicely into the center spar holes for
this part of the assembly. But I will admit using a scotchbrite pad to make sure
excess burrs and such were removed from the bolts. No anodizing was removed
or damage to the holes.
Rick S.
40185
Message 16
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| Subject: | Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
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--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Connection speed vs. Attachments |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
If I know I am going to attach a picture, I will reduce the size so that its about
100K. That works for most browsers. And it's still ok for those who are
using modems.
I too prefer the photo attachments.
Jim Combs
N312F
#40192 - Fuselage
Do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
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| Subject: | deburring and primer prep |
This may be a stupid question but is it ok to deburr edges of skins with scotch-brite
pads. Also, my priming up to now has consisted of Pre-kote followed by
a rinse then prime with a 2-part primer. The only thing I don't like about the
pre-kote is that on the alclad parts it's hard to get the alclad off the parts
in the corners then the primer doesn't stick there. Does anybody just use
a scotch-brite pad (dry) then rinse and prime???
Another question I have is about alodining. Where can the product be bought and
what do I look for when shopping for it??? Next, how long do you leave the
pieces in the alodine??? Finally, I assume the pieces have to be rinsed then
dried before priming, correct??? I've also seen the alodine put into a squirt
bottle and squirted onto larger pieces such as skins. Anybody have any experience
with this???
Sorry for the lame questions, just looking for a better way to prepare parts for
primer!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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The entire body of the message was removed. Please
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spamd2.ruraltel.net
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| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
Does this mean that if you alodine the parts they don't need primed. Just alodined,
then rivet???
Again, not trying to start the primer wars over.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring and primer prep
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Bill,
I have had great luck with Alumaprep and a red Scothbrite pad. It cleans the
parts easily and once you rinse it off and it dries it is ready for Alodine or
primer. The Alumaprep comes in gallons and you dilute it with water. I keep a
spray bottle, spray the parts and scrub with the pad then rinse, works great.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
Hi Bill,
I have used the PPG products to prime the parts. Here is my procedure:
Scratch the surface with scotchbrite pad (most of the time)
Place part in aluminum cleaner. Leave for about 1 to 2 minutes.
Rinse aluminum cleaner off.
Place part in alodine solution. Leave for about 1 to 2 minutes. Turns gold
in color.
Remove parts from alodine solution and rinse.
Hang parts to dry or try to dry them by blowing air on them.
When dry spary the PPG, 2 part epoxy primer.
If parts are too large to dip I use a scotch brite pad for the cleaner and a
brush for the alodine solution. It does not come out as well as when dipped.
I the skins I only treat the inside thinking that the outside will be taken
care of during painting.
The alodine itself does protect the metal. The epoxy primer is a second layer
of protection or maybe a third if one considers the alcad layer allready on
most of the parts. This procedure is quiet a bit of work and might not be necessary
unless you plane will be tied down near the ocean.
Hope this helps.
Niko
40188
Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
Does this mean that if you alodine the parts they don't need primed.
Just alodined, then rivet???
Again, not trying to start the primer wars over.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring and primer prep
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Bill,
I have had great luck with Alumaprep and a red Scothbrite pad. It cleans the
parts easily and once you rinse it off and it dries it is ready for Alodine or
primer. The Alumaprep comes in gallons and you dilute it with water. I keep a
spray bottle, spray the parts and scrub with the pad then rinse, works great.
Rick S.
40185
========================================== Some AWESOME Terrific Free your generous
=========================much much ====================================
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts |
Not sure if you realized but most of the std AN bolts that Van's sells in
their catalog are about the same price (or even less!) than what you can buy
at Home depot.
For example:
Van's AN3-10A 17 cents
Home depot- bag of 5 for 98 cents or about 20 cents a piece
Buying at an Ace hardware is even worse!
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts |
If you got a whole box of the pop rivets available, then you can use those to hold
the wing spar in place and the whole problem goes away. If they are good
enough to hold the wing tip fairing they should be good enough to hold the wing
in place. Now exactly how many Arrow high strength pop rivets are you going
to need.. You are going to have to counterbore the spar caps as the grip length
on the LP4 is a bit on the low end. Wow, you might even get some weight savings
out of this. I think I am going to submit this idea to Vans ;).
Niko
Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Valid, I have aerospace experience
and can spot an Ace vs a AN from a good two inches away ;)
Especially 3/8" X 4-1/2" cadium plated, hardware store bolts. Are Arrow pop rivets
OK though? I have a whole box of them and are afraid I slip up and use them
in place of my LP4-3's....oh wait those are "Arrow" pop rivets not Aero..
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Do not archive
ist
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
In a message dated 11/28/2005 11:19:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
owl40188@yahoo.com writes:
This procedure is quiet a bit of work and might not be necessary unless you
plane will be tied down near the ocean.
Hope this helps.
Niko
DO NOT ARCHIVE
I live in Florida near the ocean, based at Stuart (KSUA), and i fly a
1952 C170b (53 years old). At our annual last month, i notice much of the
metal in the wings and HS and tail cone is bare ALCLAD. NO corrosion, and the
plane is hangared outdoors in a shade hangar (roof only). Some areas have
Alodine, green. I am not sure the age of all parts, the plane was repaired
twice, but the only corrosion we see is on the painted side, from poor metal
prep and mositure trapping (I am guessing that it was painted on a hot typical
95% humidity day here, trapping moisture and resulting in an orange peel
texture in a few areas due to the paint forming a skin, before all the solvent
can
leave (underside of wings).
When you scotchbrite a part, you are removing a protective AL layer to
put a new Alodine layer??? Labor intensive. When you put epoxy on, you risk
trapping moisture and never seeing it again until blisters show. Also, pick
up a gallon of the stuff, you will have to do that on every take off,
permanent dead weight.
I am just starting, but leaving the ALCLAD intact, and just spraying a
little Zinc Chromate in any areas i drill. I plan to put epoxy in the cabin
areas in places that will show if not covered with carpet or side wall
coverings, the rest will be ALCLAD, with a little Zn Chromate here and there,
with
very little weight or time required to apply. I am 48 y.o, and the plane
should out last my pilots license if all works out well.
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
Message 26
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| Subject: | RE: Power Loss follow up |
Just a follow up to my power loss question last month.
We fixed our power loss on climb (in my C-170)..... and realized we had
power loss through out the power curve, that just went un-noticed. On steep
climb we would loose 300+ rpm rapidly, then get it back slowly when level.
This was not from the climb itself, it was a definite power loss. . We
suspected the carb float???
We disconnected the fuel line from the gascolater, it pored out fast.
We reattacehd the line and disconneted at the carb, and the fuel flow was
very limited. The secondary fuel filter that is inline at the carb connection
was block with very fine debris that made it through the gascolater. It was
like kidney stones, big lumps!!! We couldnt figure out how it formed!!! But it
did, we were very close to loosing all power without any more warning. In
hind site, i use to think the throttle was moving as the plane would require
constant elevator trimming or throttle adjustments in level flight. It was
power changes from fuel flow changes!!!!
Our A & P told us that an EGT probe would have pointed to the problem,
as we were leaning without knowing, and probably accounts for the second
exhaust valve guide going bad in 2 years (running hot). Our plane is very basic
with minimum instrumentsm and EGT would be a good one to add.
I just wanted to pass it on, it seems so obvious now. We were caught off
guard, our fuel always drained clear, never any debris or water in the fuel
strainer for the 3 years we have had the plane!!!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
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