Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (dralle@matronics.com)
2. 04:28 AM - elevators ()
3. 05:59 AM - Re: elevators (Tim Olson)
4. 07:08 AM - Re: elevators (Tom Gesele)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: elevators ()
6. 09:21 AM - Re: elevators (Jim Wade)
7. 09:29 AM - Re: elevators (John Hasbrouck)
8. 10:01 AM - Re: elevators (Tim Olson)
9. 10:39 AM - Re: elevators (Eric Panning)
10. 11:15 AM - Re: elevators (John Jessen)
11. 12:22 PM - Re: elevators ()
12. 12:56 PM - Re: elevators (Eric Panning)
13. 02:36 PM - Re: Re: elevators ()
14. 04:08 PM - Re: Re: elevators (John Jessen)
15. 07:45 PM - Re: elevators (Bill and Tami Britton)
16. 08:12 PM - Rudder Cable Guides (Bill)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV10-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV10-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV10-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
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- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
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easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
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can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
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- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
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agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
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- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
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- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
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other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
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will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
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[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Godd morning to all.
I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of the funny
looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to it, who
support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will machined a solid
piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a couple of those,the original
really look funny ,the way is welded only one side and only tack the inside.
If any one remember ,please let me know.
Thanks ,Hugo
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm wondering...has anyone considered just beefing these things
up with silver solder? A few years ago I had to weld some stainless
rods onto scuba tank stainless steel bands. (We did dives requiring
4-6 cylinders on your back) Silver solder worked great for doing
this and they've survived the years just fine. Perhaps just
removing the bracket and adding some solder to the joint would
increase the strength over the welding only and it would fill any
air gap left from around the nut.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Godd morning to all.
> I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of the
funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to it, who
support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will machined a solid
piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a couple of those,the
original really look funny ,the way is welded only one side and only tack the
inside.
> If any one remember ,please let me know.
> Thanks ,Hugo
>
Message 4
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<20051202122811.KSOP23329.ibm56aec.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
Just throwing this out as a possible alternative to machining a new part..
Has anyone considered opening a piece of 063 angle to match the angle the
nut makes to the plate and using it as a reinforcement? It would share the
rivets with the plate and the trim cable will pass thru a slightly
over-sized hole in the angle with the nuts on the trim cable locking it all
in place.
I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not and will be passing it by our local
tech counselor to get his opinion. My fall-back plan is to purchase a space
cover plate/weldment and keep it in the plane with the tool box. Won't help
an in-flight failure but will allow me to make a field repair to get home.
Tom Gesele #473
Emp/Cone done - Wings/Fuse showing up next week.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Subject: RV10-List: elevators
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Godd morning to all.
I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of
the funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to
it, who support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will
machined a solid piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a
couple of those,the original really look funny ,the way is welded only one
side and only tack the inside.
If any one remember ,please let me know.
Thanks ,Hugo
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
My experience with my fuel tanks,is ,the SS weld is good but do not like vibration
to much,there is where the cracks come ,I will try wit my welding to beef
up,and I thinks the best to protectis to ,like in the rudder cover the surface
with very hard but flexible material 42oo from 3m is perfect ,a very thin layer
in between will absorb thge vibration,( I thinks),I used in the rudder insted
of the pro seal,was perfect,dry quickly ,very strong,not mess .When consulting
with Van ,they explain the proseal is only to hold the parts togheter,nothing
structural.
Hugo
I will post some pictures after the welding ,if I busted ,can be replace very easy
>
> From: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
> Date: 2005/12/02 Fri AM 10:11:54 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: elevators
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
>
> Just throwing this out as a possible alternative to machining a new part..
>
> Has anyone considered opening a piece of 063 angle to match the angle the
> nut makes to the plate and using it as a reinforcement? It would share the
> rivets with the plate and the trim cable will pass thru a slightly
> over-sized hole in the angle with the nuts on the trim cable locking it all
> in place.
>
> I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not and will be passing it by our local
> tech counselor to get his opinion. My fall-back plan is to purchase a space
> cover plate/weldment and keep it in the plane with the tool box. Won't help
> an in-flight failure but will allow me to make a field repair to get home.
>
> Tom Gesele #473
> Emp/Cone done - Wings/Fuse showing up next week.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> gommone7@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 7:28 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: elevators
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Godd morning to all.
> I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of
> the funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to
> it, who support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will
> machined a solid piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a
> couple of those,the original really look funny ,the way is welded only one
> side and only tack the inside.
> If any one remember ,please let me know.
> Thanks ,Hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire mig with small wire. The
only problem with this is the weld will rust in time. put a little paint on
it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing on this?? has one
failed?????
Jim
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm wondering...has anyone considered just beefing these things
up with silver solder? A few years ago I had to weld some stainless
rods onto scuba tank stainless steel bands. (We did dives requiring
4-6 cylinders on your back) Silver solder worked great for doing
this and they've survived the years just fine. Perhaps just
removing the bracket and adding some solder to the joint would
increase the strength over the welding only and it would fill any
air gap left from around the nut.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
gommone7@bellsouth.net wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Godd morning to all.
> I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of
the funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to
it, who support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will
machined a solid piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a
couple of those,the original really look funny ,the way is welded only one
side and only tack the inside.
> If any one remember ,please let me know.
> Thanks ,Hugo
>
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Tom,
The idea of a doubler for the nut on the trim weldment sounds like it
may have merit. I'd be interested to hear what your tech counselor has to
say about it. I too purchased a couple of spare weldments from Van's just
to have on hand. Won't help in flight though. I'm not sure what the
consequences of inflight failure would be but it seems the trim tab would be
allowed to flutter. Not a good thing!
John Hasbrouck #40264
Burning up propane to keep from freezing
in the garage/shop.
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Actually, none has failed in flight, but there have been a few
cases of people having the nut snap off during assembly or just
in their hands. Not necessarily many, but come. And some
had questioned if thiers was stainless or regular steel.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Wade wrote:
> You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire mig with small
> wire. The only problem with this is the weld will rust in time. put a
> little paint on it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing on
> this?? has one failed?????
> Jim
> 40383
>
> /-------Original Message-------/
>
> /*From:*/ Tim Olson <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
> /*Date:*/ 12/02/05 08:17:00
> /*To:*/ rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> /*Subject:*/ Re: RV10-List: elevators
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>
> I'm wondering...has anyone considered just beefing these things
> up with silver solder? A few years ago I had to weld some stainless
> rods onto scuba tank stainless steel bands. (We did dives requiring
> 4-6 cylinders on your back) Silver solder worked great for doing
> this and they've survived the years just fine. Perhaps just
> removing the bracket and adding some solder to the joint would
> increase the strength over the welding only and it would fill any
> air gap left from around the nut.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> gommone7@bellsouth.net <mailto:gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net
> <mailto:gommone7@bellsouth.net>>
> >
> > Godd morning to all.
> > I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the
> issue of the funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the
> nut welded to it, who support the trim cable at the elevators ,and
> mention he will machined a solid piece,is this happened?,if so I will
> like to purchase a couple of those,the original really look funny ,the
> way is welded only one side and only tack the inside.
> > If any one remember ,please let me know.
> > Thanks ,Hugo
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim
actuation. A while ago others reported failures as
well (none inflight). For some of the initial kits the
weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two
replacements from Vans and they are welded one side,
tacked the other.
Van's tech support said they were thinking about
changing it (guess not so far). The other complexity
is once installed you cannot adjust position without
really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached
direct to the access panel.
I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it
would be easier to put nut plates on it. This would
allow easy fine tuning. It would also allow you to
remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail
kit. It is also hard to get the servo in and out +
adjusted. If the nut broke free in flight, the trim
would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not
weighted it has a high risk for fluttering. It's small
enough that you might not notice and further damage
might occur.
Eric
--- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
> You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire
> mig with small wire. The
> only problem with this is the weld will rust in
> time. put a little paint on
> it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing
> on this?? has one
> failed?????
> Jim
> 40383
>
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
This sounds like a problem waiting to happen. Anything effecting control
surfaces should not be taken lightly. Anyone out there in the process of
making a solution for sale? Or, should be knocking on the Van's tech door
with a louder hammer? How does one evaluate the suitability of what is in
their particular kit?
John Jessen
~328 (still in buildus interruptus)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
--> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim actuation. A while ago
others reported failures as well (none inflight). For some of the initial
kits the weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two replacements from
Vans and they are welded one side, tacked the other.
Van's tech support said they were thinking about changing it (guess not so
far). The other complexity is once installed you cannot adjust position
without really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached direct to the
access panel.
I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it would be easier to put
nut plates on it. This would allow easy fine tuning. It would also allow you
to remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail kit. It is also hard
to get the servo in and out + adjusted. If the nut broke free in flight, the
trim would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not weighted it has a
high risk for fluttering. It's small enough that you might not notice and
further damage might occur.
Eric
--- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
> You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire mig with small
> wire. The only problem with this is the weld will rust in time. put a
> little paint on it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing
> on this?? has one failed?????
> Jim
> 40383
>
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <seanblair@adelphia.net>
I took the parts to a local welder and he beefed them up with heavy welds. They
look really solid now and don't concern me like they once did. The welder charged
$35.00 though. As far as access, I haven't installed the cables yet but
based on the various comments posted agree with the idea of nutplates.
Sean Blair
40225
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
John,
Properly adjusted, there is little strain on the nut
as the force is transmitted via the inner cable within
the teleflex. I think the issue is if it is not
adjusted properly, there is little margin in the
original tacked nut/plate. Difficult adjust makes it
harder to get it perfect. It does not help that the
manual lacks details for range of travel (left/right).
I'm not sure how I wrecked mine but I know it was not
adjusted properly.
Perhaps some of the flying RV-10's could make a note
of how they set it up?
I think I am going to epoxy to add strength to the nut
base, mount it to a larger Al plate and put nut plates
in this plate, then screws from access panel to Al
plate/nut assembly. This would allow simple adjustment
and would not take long to do.
Eric
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
> <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> This sounds like a problem waiting to happen.
> Anything effecting control
> surfaces should not be taken lightly. Anyone out
> there in the process of
> making a solution for sale? Or, should be knocking
> on the Van's tech door
> with a louder hammer? How does one evaluate the
> suitability of what is in
> their particular kit?
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (still in buildus interruptus)
>
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Eric Panning
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 1:39 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
> --> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim
> actuation. A while ago
> others reported failures as well (none inflight).
> For some of the initial
> kits the weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got
> two replacements from
> Vans and they are welded one side, tacked the other.
>
> Van's tech support said they were thinking about
> changing it (guess not so
> far). The other complexity is once installed you
> cannot adjust position
> without really bending the teleflex cable bc it is
> attached direct to the
> access panel.
>
> I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it
> would be easier to put
> nut plates on it. This would allow easy fine tuning.
> It would also allow you
> to remove the access panel fully for a better
> inspection.
>
> I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the
> tail kit. It is also hard
> to get the servo in and out + adjusted. If the nut
> broke free in flight, the
> trim would either free stream or flutter. Since it
> is not weighted it has a
> high risk for fluttering. It's small enough that you
> might not notice and
> further damage might occur.
>
> Eric
>
> --- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
>
> > You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a
> wire mig with small
> > wire. The only problem with this is the weld will
> rust in time. put a
> > little paint on it and you are good to go. Why is
> everyone obsessing
> > on this?? has one failed?????
> > Jim
> > 40383
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com,
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the opinions,I thinks I will go for beefed up the weld,I didn't go deeply
in the constructions process yet, but Give the place ,and the function ,I
will try do not put wheigth in it(nut plates),even in small amoun of it at 200
in the furthest part of the missil I thinks is out of my league to investigate
the consecuences.
I will show the weld after I done with it.
Thanks,Hugo
Just finish the HS (i will order a pneumatic squeezer)don't laugh
>
> From: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2005/12/02 Fri PM 01:38:53 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim
> actuation. A while ago others reported failures as
> well (none inflight). For some of the initial kits the
> weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two
> replacements from Vans and they are welded one side,
> tacked the other.
>
> Van's tech support said they were thinking about
> changing it (guess not so far). The other complexity
> is once installed you cannot adjust position without
> really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached
> direct to the access panel.
>
> I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it
> would be easier to put nut plates on it. This would
> allow easy fine tuning. It would also allow you to
> remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
>
> I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail
> kit. It is also hard to get the servo in and out +
> adjusted. If the nut broke free in flight, the trim
> would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not
> weighted it has a high risk for fluttering. It's small
> enough that you might not notice and further damage
> might occur.
>
> Eric
>
> --- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
>
> > You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire
> > mig with small wire. The
> > only problem with this is the weld will rust in
> > time. put a little paint on
> > it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing
> > on this?? has one
> > failed?????
> > Jim
> > 40383
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Ahhh, the pleasures of a pneumatic squeezer! But just think of that iron
grip you have developed!
Yes, I'd be interested in how you build up that part. I think it's
important that we all share how we're dealing with this one part. Pictures,
especially would be helpful.
John Jessen
~328
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: elevators
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the opinions,I thinks I will go for beefed up the weld,I didn't
go deeply in the constructions process yet, but Give the place ,and the
function ,I will try do not put wheigth in it(nut plates),even in small
amoun of it at 200 in the furthest part of the missil I thinks is out of my
league to investigate the consecuences.
I will show the weld after I done with it.
Thanks,Hugo
Just finish the HS (i will order a pneumatic squeezer)don't laugh
>
> From: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2005/12/02 Fri PM 01:38:53 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
> --> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim actuation. A while
> ago others reported failures as well (none inflight). For some of the
> initial kits the weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two
> replacements from Vans and they are welded one side, tacked the other.
>
> Van's tech support said they were thinking about changing it (guess
> not so far). The other complexity is once installed you cannot adjust
> position without really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached
> direct to the access panel.
>
> I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it would be easier to
> put nut plates on it. This would allow easy fine tuning. It would also
> allow you to remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
>
> I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail kit. It is also
> hard to get the servo in and out + adjusted. If the nut broke free in
> flight, the trim would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not
> weighted it has a high risk for fluttering. It's small enough that you
> might not notice and further damage might occur.
>
> Eric
>
> --- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
>
> > You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire mig with small
> > wire. The only problem with this is the weld will rust in time. put
> > a little paint on it and you are good to go. Why is everyone
> > obsessing on this?? has one failed?????
> > Jim
> > 40383
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_8 Message came from 65.167.220-223.x network
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
I think I'm the last one that brought this item up several months ago. At
that time I called Vans tech and they basically told me that it's perfectly
fine the way it was. I cannot remember who I talked to but they almost
acted offended that I would question the integrity of their product. The
reason I called them was that i had heard a rumor that they were making
replacements that were welded on both sides. Not true (atleast then).
Anyway, After 3 months break (fall wheat planting and corn, soybean and milo
harvest) I'm finally starting on the project again. I've had lots of time
to think about this and I'm going to just try welding the other side also.
I may order an extra and weld it, then use a hammer on it and see just how
strong they actually are. If I can remember to do it, I'll report my
findings back here.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Panning" <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: elevators
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> John,
>
> Properly adjusted, there is little strain on the nut
> as the force is transmitted via the inner cable within
> the teleflex. I think the issue is if it is not
> adjusted properly, there is little margin in the
> original tacked nut/plate. Difficult adjust makes it
> harder to get it perfect. It does not help that the
> manual lacks details for range of travel (left/right).
> I'm not sure how I wrecked mine but I know it was not
> adjusted properly.
>
> Perhaps some of the flying RV-10's could make a note
> of how they set it up?
>
> I think I am going to epoxy to add strength to the nut
> base, mount it to a larger Al plate and put nut plates
> in this plate, then screws from access panel to Al
> plate/nut assembly. This would allow simple adjustment
> and would not take long to do.
>
> Eric
>
> --- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
>> <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> This sounds like a problem waiting to happen.
>> Anything effecting control
>> surfaces should not be taken lightly. Anyone out
>> there in the process of
>> making a solution for sale? Or, should be knocking
>> on the Van's tech door
>> with a louder hammer? How does one evaluate the
>> suitability of what is in
>> their particular kit?
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (still in buildus interruptus)
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
>> Behalf Of Eric Panning
>> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 1:39 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
>> --> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>>
>> I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim
>> actuation. A while ago
>> others reported failures as well (none inflight).
>> For some of the initial
>> kits the weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got
>> two replacements from
>> Vans and they are welded one side, tacked the other.
>>
>> Van's tech support said they were thinking about
>> changing it (guess not so
>> far). The other complexity is once installed you
>> cannot adjust position
>> without really bending the teleflex cable bc it is
>> attached direct to the
>> access panel.
>>
>> I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it
>> would be easier to put
>> nut plates on it. This would allow easy fine tuning.
>> It would also allow you
>> to remove the access panel fully for a better
>> inspection.
>>
>> I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the
>> tail kit. It is also hard
>> to get the servo in and out + adjusted. If the nut
>> broke free in flight, the
>> trim would either free stream or flutter. Since it
>> is not weighted it has a
>> high risk for fluttering. It's small enough that you
>> might not notice and
>> further damage might occur.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> --- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
>>
>> > You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a
>> wire mig with small
>> > wire. The only problem with this is the weld will
>> rust in time. put a
>> > little paint on it and you are good to go. Why is
>> everyone obsessing
>> > on this?? has one failed?????
>> > Jim
>> > 40383
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Click on
>> about
>> provided
>> www.buildersbooks.com,
>> Admin.
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Rudder Cable Guides |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector valve
and lines and would appreciate any help.
The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel selector
valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon guide
strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to the
selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable guides
(eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Bill Stegemann
RV6 - sold
RV10 wings/fuselage
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