Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:46 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Guides (Russell Daves)
2. 07:11 AM - Re: Step Installation & Baggage Floor Access (Larry Rosen)
3. 07:12 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Guides (Marcus Cooper)
4. 07:18 AM - Re: elevators (Larry Rosen)
5. 09:17 AM - Re: Step Installation & Baggage Floor Access (Tim Olson)
6. 09:38 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Guides (Sam Marlow)
7. 10:20 AM - Blue protective covering question (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
8. 10:37 AM - Re: Blue protective covering question (Robert G. Wright)
9. 10:51 AM - Re: Blue protective covering question (James Hein)
10. 11:15 AM - Re: Blue protective covering question (Deems Davis)
11. 12:06 PM - Re: Blue protective covering question (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 01:45 PM - Re: Blue protective covering question (Albert Gardner)
13. 01:58 PM - Re: Blue protective covering question (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
14. 09:22 PM - Re: Re: RV 10 tail kit for sale (Gary Thomas)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Guides |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Bill:
I have fixed the problem. I drilled out the front eyelet and installed the
nylon rudder rudder cable guides in the front of the fuel selector as per
Van's design. Fuel lines and fitting were already installed at such time.
Coming to your same conclusion about the chaffing, I then called Scott
McDaniel at Van's and told him my thoughts about the rudder cable being two
close to the fuel line and fittings and my concerns about the rudder cable
sawing through the fuel lines and/or the fittings. Scott sent me four extra
nylon guides (page 38-10 figure 4) and I installed them aft of the fuel
selector lines so that the rudder cable cannot rub.
After doing all this I saw an alternative solution on an RV-6 builder's
project. He was installing West Marine snap on cable covers
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/1584
over his rudder cables. I went ahead and ordered some cable covers 3/8"
(not received yet) which I am going to snap over my rudder cables from front
to back and secure to the side of the center console wall so that the rudder
cable slides back and forth through the cable covers just like they do as
they exit the center console in front and the fuselage at the rear.
I will take a picture of the nylon guides installed front and back of the
fuel selector when I go out to the airport later today and post it tonight
for all to see.
Russ Daves #40044 Fuselage on gear and about to hang engine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
>
> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector
> valve
> and lines and would appreciate any help.
> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
> selector
> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon
> guide
> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to
> the
> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
> guides
> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Bill Stegemann
> RV6 - sold
> RV10 wings/fuselage
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Step Installation & Baggage Floor Access |
Scott & Tim
Thanks for your response, but I asked my question too soon. It seems
that for my quick build fuselage they have already final drilled the step.
I have installed an access panel to get to the step bolts and the wire
run. I used the VA-195C Access Hatch Doubler and the VA-105D Access
Hatch that are use on the wing for the stall warning. I ordered 2 of
each from Vans. They are installed forward and outboard in the baggage
floor board.
Attached are 2 photos of the install. I have reduced down size of the
attachment.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
>I know I didn't but I cant remember how I got around it. I also added
>an removable door so that I could take the step on and off but I mainly
>did it because I wasn't ready to put the step on for good because I
>didn't know if I wanted to chrome the step or paint it. And now I can
>take it off when I race the -10 at Reno. Hahaha
>
>I actually just took the step to hpcoatings.com They are currently
>ceramic coating my exhaust system, and the step. They said that the
>ceramic coating is much tougher than powder coating and it has a nice
>chrome look to it. I will post some pictures once it is complete. They
>are going to powder coat my baffles as well.
>
>
>Scott Schmidt
>sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 5:37 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Step Installation
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
>I am about ready to install the fuselage steps. In the plans page 30-3
>step 3 has you drill a hole through the guide hole, step, step mount
>and the bottom skin. Then the next step has you drill #30 up from the
>skin. I am planning on installing an access cover to get to the step
>after the baggage floor is riveted in place.
>
>Is there an alternate method to drilling the step that does not involve
>drilling through the bottom skin?
>
>Larry Rosen
>40356
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Rudder Cable Guides |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Bill,
I ran into the same situation recently and did a lot of head scratching,
looking at the plans and at pictures on various websites. What I came up
with is the eyelets aren't supposed to be there. They are not in the plans
from what I could tell so I took them out and that opened up a hole to
install the ADEL claps to hold the rudder cables as per the plans. I can't
remember which pictures I referenced, but scan through Tim's website and I
suspect you'll find others don't have those big eyelets near the fuel
selector.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector valve
and lines and would appreciate any help.
The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel selector
valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon guide
strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to the
selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable guides
(eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Bill Stegemann
RV6 - sold
RV10 wings/fuselage
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I have a photo here
<http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/Construct/Log/Emp/Alexander/Day06/slides/P4270011.html>
of the how I had the part welded. I don't think it is going to break now.
Larry Rosen
RV10 40256
John Jessen wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>Ahhh, the pleasures of a pneumatic squeezer! But just think of that iron
>grip you have developed!
>
>Yes, I'd be interested in how you build up that part. I think it's
>important that we all share how we're dealing with this one part. Pictures,
>especially would be helpful.
>
>John Jessen
> ~328
>
>do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>gommone7@bellsouth.net
>Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 2:37 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Thanks for the opinions,I thinks I will go for beefed up the weld,I didn't
>go deeply in the constructions process yet, but Give the place ,and the
>function ,I will try do not put wheigth in it(nut plates),even in small
>amoun of it at 200 in the furthest part of the missil I thinks is out of my
>league to investigate the consecuences.
>I will show the weld after I done with it.
>Thanks,Hugo
>Just finish the HS (i will order a pneumatic squeezer)don't laugh
>
>
>>From: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>>Date: 2005/12/02 Fri PM 01:38:53 EST
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
>>--> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>>
>>I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim actuation. A while
>>ago others reported failures as well (none inflight). For some of the
>>initial kits the weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two
>>replacements from Vans and they are welded one side, tacked the other.
>>
>>Van's tech support said they were thinking about changing it (guess
>>not so far). The other complexity is once installed you cannot adjust
>>position without really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached
>>direct to the access panel.
>>
>>I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it would be easier to
>>put nut plates on it. This would allow easy fine tuning. It would also
>>allow you to remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
>>
>>I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail kit. It is also
>>hard to get the servo in and out + adjusted. If the nut broke free in
>>flight, the trim would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not
>>weighted it has a high risk for fluttering. It's small enough that you
>>might not notice and further damage might occur.
>>
>>Eric
>>
>>--- Jim Wade <jwadejr@direcway.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire mig with small
>>>wire. The only problem with this is the weld will rust in time. put
>>>a little paint on it and you are good to go. Why is everyone
>>>obsessing on this?? has one failed?????
>>>Jim
>>>40383
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Step Installation & Baggage Floor Access |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Larry,
I think your method is about as perfect as it can get. There may
be other times you will appreciate access to that area. You
did really well.
Tim
Larry Rosen wrote:
> Scott & Tim
> Thanks for your response, but I asked my question too soon. It seems
> that for my quick build fuselage they have already final drilled the step.
>
> I have installed an access panel to get to the step bolts and the wire
> run. I used the VA-195C Access Hatch Doubler and the VA-105D Access
> Hatch that are use on the wing for the stall warning. I ordered 2 of
> each from Vans. They are installed forward and outboard in the baggage
> floor board.
> Attached are 2 photos of the install. I have reduced down size of the
> attachment.
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN (reserved)
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
>> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>>
>> I know I didn't but I cant remember how I got around it. I also added
>> an removable door so that I could take the step on and off but I mainly
>> did it because I wasn't ready to put the step on for good because I
>> didn't know if I wanted to chrome the step or paint it. And now I can
>> take it off when I race the -10 at Reno. Hahaha
>>
>> I actually just took the step to hpcoatings.com They are currently
>> ceramic coating my exhaust system, and the step. They said that the
>> ceramic coating is much tougher than powder coating and it has a nice
>> chrome look to it. I will post some pictures once it is complete. They
>> are going to powder coat my baffles as well.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 5:37 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Step Installation
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>>
>> I am about ready to install the fuselage steps. In the plans page
>> 30-3 step 3 has you drill a hole through the guide hole, step, step
>> mount and the bottom skin. Then the next step has you drill #30 up
>> from the skin. I am planning on installing an access cover to get to
>> the step after the baggage floor is riveted in place.
>> Is there an alternate method to drilling the step that does not
>> involve drilling through the bottom skin?
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> 40356
>>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Guides |
I ran into the same problem, so I removed the eyelet's, and installed
the nylon chafe strips. Clearance is now very good, I didn't want to use
90 fittings and possibly restrict the flow. There's no doubt,
installing the fuel lines are a challenge, but it can be done.
Sam Marlow
RV10 fuse
Bill wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
>
>I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector valve
>and lines and would appreciate any help.
>The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel selector
>valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon guide
>strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to the
>selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
>called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable guides
>(eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
>the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
>minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
>Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
>thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
>cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Bill Stegemann
>RV6 - sold
>RV10 wings/fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Blue protective covering question |
I see many photos showing various skins with the blue stuff removed on the
rivet lines. How do you get that stuff off so neatly without using a razor
knife against the aluminum????
Thanks! -
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve RV-10 #40499
VS Clecoed and ready to rivet.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Blue protective covering question |
Hi Steve.
I forget where I got my original tip on this. Get a simple soldering iron,
use a blunt tip (or polish one until it's blunt), and drag away! Then peel
it up carefully. Some areas may not be melted through all the way and
you'll have to experiment with how fast you can drag your iron across the
film to get a good melt. Obviously, some irons are better at others at
keeping its temperature regulated since the AL is a big heat sink.
Rob Wright
#392
Just cleaned shop, starting tailcone today!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Subject: RV10-List: Blue protective covering question
I see many photos showing various skins with the blue stuff removed on
the rivet lines. How do you get that stuff off so neatly without using a
razor knife against the aluminum????
Thanks! -
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve RV-10 #40499
VS Clecoed and ready to rivet.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Blue protective covering question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Steve,
Just use a cheap soldering iron and make the tip blunt and you can
melt lines into the blue covering and then peel it off in strips.
It actually is in the builders manual, page 5-6.
You did read the manual before starting, right? :)
-Jim 40384, still working on the outboard leading edges.
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> I see many photos showing various skins with the blue stuff
> removed on the rivet lines. How do you get that stuff off so neatly
> without using a razor knife against the aluminum????
>
> Thanks! -
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Steve RV-10 #40499
> VS Clecoed and ready to rivet.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Blue protective covering question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
use a soldering iron w/ a polished (smooth) tip and a metal straight edge.
Deems Davis # 406
WingFlaps
http://deemsrv10.com/
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com wrote:
> I see many photos showing various skins with the blue stuff
> removed on the rivet lines. How do you get that stuff off so neatly
> without using a razor knife against the aluminum????
>
> Thanks! -
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Steve RV-10 #40499
> VS Clecoed and ready to rivet.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Blue protective covering question |
Steve,
Couple of points on this to remember.
- It takes a lot of time to just take the blue stuff off of the rivet lines.
- There have been reports of filliform (the bad stuff) corrosion under the blue
stuff when left for long periods of time.
- Unless you are polishing the airplane when done, you will be roughing up the
entire surface anyway before you paint.
I did this for a while and finally decided there was no major benefit for the
time expended and there is a definite risk to leaving it on especially in high
humidity climates. I also decided to alodine my skins which meant I had to
remove it anyway.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Where is that darn fuselage.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Subject: RV10-List: Blue protective covering question
I see many photos showing various skins with the blue stuff removed on the
rivet lines. How do you get that stuff off so neatly without using a razor knife
against the aluminum????
Thanks! -
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve RV-10 #40499
VS Clecoed and ready to rivet.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Blue protective covering question |
One problem with leaving the plastic on occurs if Alumiprep is used to
clean/etch prior to priming. It will run through the rivet holes to the
other side and is very hard to wash completely off. Alumiprep left on the
skin will cause some kind of corrosion or something to occur under the
plastic film if it has been loosened enough to allow moisture to sep
underneath. I have been removing all plastic film when it time to etch/prime
and assemble.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 40-422
Yuma, AZ
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Blue protective covering question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
do not archive
Thanks! somehow I missed the part about the soldering iron and focused
on the statement about removing the blue before long term storage to avoid
corrosion. VS ready for dimpling.... Thanks again - Steve
In a message dated 12/3/05 1:53 pm, n8vim@arrl.net writes:
<< use a cheap soldering iron and make the tip blunt and you can
melt lines into the blue covering and then peel it off in strips.
It actually is in the builders manual, page 5-6. >>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 tail kit for sale |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Thomas" <rv10pilot@msn.com>
I live in Lafayette, La. I would like to build a -10, but that is out of my
budget. An - 8 is more inline with what I can afford.
>From: <jim@CombsFive.Com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale
>Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 21:42:57 -0500
>
>I have an RV-8 emp kit that is completed, I am currently building an RV-10.
>
>Is that what you are looking for RV-8
>
>Where are you located?, I am in Lexington, Ky
>
>Jim Combs
>============================================================
>From: Lsssp@aol.com
>Date: 2005/11/29 Tue PM 07:41:23 EST
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale
>
>Hello,
>
>Do you still have this tail kit for sale?
>
>Thanks Scott
>
>============================================================
>
><< VertStab_Rudder(small).JPG >>
><< HorzStab_Elev(small).JPG >>
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